Winecurrent.com delivers a comprehensive and complete review of the Vintages Release wines tasted. No short cuts, no skimping, just honest and complete reviews of the wines that were made available for tasting at the LCBO, earning 3 stars and above, to help you make your selections.

This Vintages release and winecurrent newsletter begins with a feature on wine from Australia followed by a mini-feature on wine from the Rhône Valley, France. The familiar country/region format follows in the 'Main Release' with wines reviewed in the order they appear in the Vintages Release brochure.

Other highlights in this winecurrent newsletter include:

• Winecurrent visited a number of premium Niagara wineries, tasting through barrel samples, '07 whites and '06 reds in the bottle. Be on the cutting edge with winery profiles and timely reviews in this third installment. Read more...

• Please welcome, Lindsay Groves. Lindsay Groves (LG) joins winecurrent in this issue as a reviewer. Passionate and particular, Lindsay’s career is focused on wine. She graduated from oenology and viticulture at Niagara College and has worked at wineries in France and South Africa as well as at home. She continues her studies with the Wine & Spirits Education Trust (WSET), London, soon to begin studies for the Master of Wine qualification. Lindsay is a certified sommelier, has worked at fine dining establishments in Toronto—including Via Allegro, boasting one of the world’s best wine cellars—and was recognized as ‘Ontario Sommelier of the Year’ in 2007 by the Ontario Tourism Marketing Partnership Corporation. In 2008 she was highlighted as one of the ‘Top 30 Under 30’ by the Ontario Hostelry Institute. Recently Lindsay decided to turn her attention to wine writing and in July, 2008 she was published by her idol, Jancis Robinson. She is also an associate of acclaimed sommelier and Toronto personality, Zoltan Szabo.
  
  Lindsay believes that wines should be judged on individual merit rather than their price, reputation or prestige. What matters most is the hedonistic value; wine should be evaluated on the amount of pleasure it gives to the imbiber. As such, scoring is only of use insofar as the reviewer’s taste is in accordance with that of the reader. Lindsay feels that wine is a living substance, and should be respected and treated holistically—as a regular part of life that also includes the food, places and people that surround it. Santé!
  
  You may contact her at This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it..

An explanation of the scoring system and icons is included at the end of this newsletter.



Elderton Estate ‘The Ashmead Family’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
Barossa, South Australia $29.95 (0009175)
The Elderton vineyards were planted in 1904 with the Ashmead family—hence their name on the bottle—purchasing the Elderton winery in the late 1970s. This opens with a pleasant bouquet of red cherry, raspberry, red currant, cassis and spice. It's dry and full bodied with bright acidity and velvety tannins in the mouth. A warm 14.5% alcohol is followed by good length on the finish. This would pair well with a dry-rubbed and grilled strip loin. (LG)


Glaymond ‘AsIf’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
Barossa Valley, South Australia $49.95 (0064022)
Late Harvested, this Cab is aged in 25% new French oak and showcases dried fruit, kirsch, blackberry, cassis and cherry on the nose. Dry and full bodied with a high 16% alcohol, structured tannins are followed by a lingering black fruit finish. (LG)


Ringbolt Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
Margaret River, Western Australia $19.95 (606624)
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) Round and ready to drink, this medium-bodied red (from a 'never miss' winery) is fully textured and impeccably balanced. Chocolate-covered cherries, spice and that Margaret River leafy/earthy characteristic are all present on the mid palate while the lengthy finish layers on a generous helping of kirsch liqueur. Give this a go with grilled and garlic-rubbed lamb tenderloins. (VH)


Pike & Joyce Pinot Noir 2005
Adelaide Hills, South Australia $23.95 (0068064)
With a brick-red hue, the wine starts off with aromas of cured meat, light spice, cedar, strawberry and cherry. Dry on the palate, but with the impression of sweetness thanks to the red current, cherry and red fruit-forward flavours. Vibrant acidity is balanced with soft tannins and 13.5% alcohol. (LG)


Gemtree ‘Uncut’ Shiraz 2006
McLaren Vale, South Australia $27.95 (0627844)
Pretty aromas of violet, black fruit and vanilla on the nose are followed by a full-bodied and dry palate with 14.5% alcohol. Soft, ripe tannins and hints of cocoa and tobacco, this wine would be delicious with a prime rib, medium rare. (LG)


Katnook Estate Shiraz 2004
Coonawarra, South Australia $29.95 (0938225)
Cool-climate Coonawarra and winemaker extraordinaire, Wayne Stehbens, prove a dynamic duo fashioning this flavourful red. There are black fruit aromas of plum, cassis, cherry and mulberry that are nicely complemented by cedar and liquorice notes. It's dry and pronounced on the palate with 14% alcohol and supple tannins. You can enjoy this now, especially when poured with a hearty lamb daube or osso bucco. (LG)


Maxwell ‘Silver Hammer’ Shiraz 2006
McLaren Vale, South Australia $19.95 (0089599)
A very feminine and perfumed nose with cherry, cassis, blackberry and floral notes. On the palate it’s full bodied with good concentration and velvety tannins and a warm 14.5% alcohol. Try this alongside rosemary rack of lamb. (LG)


Penfolds ‘RWT’ Shiraz 2005
Barossa, South Australia $133.95 (0564278)
Luscious black fruit aromas are contrasted with cool notes of menthol. Dry and full bodied with fine, firm tannins glazed with bitter cocoa on the finish in balance with its 14.5% alcohol. Great ageing potential (and rightfully so for a wine in this price range). (LG)


Pikes ‘Eastside’ Shiraz 2004
Clare Valley, South Australia $21.95 (0077891)
Deep ruby in the glass, with liquorice, coffee and roasted vegetable aromas. Dry and full bodied with 14.5% alcohol, moderate tannins and subsequent good length on the palate. Try a glass of this with roasted red and green peppers, zucchini, eggplant and Portobello mushrooms with a balsamic reduction. (LG)


Pirramimma Shiraz 2005
McLaren Vale, South Australia $24.95 (987784)
This producer is a winecurrent favourite and this wine showcases why. It’s very soft and approachable with a full body, quite plush texture and a rich and concentrated wave of ripe dark berry fruit flavours—black currant black, raspberry and mulberry. There’s also a lovely layering of chocolate flavour and refreshing moderating acidity. The finish lingers and is well balanced. (VH)


Two Hands ‘Bad Impersonator’ Shiraz 2006
Barossa Valley, South Australia $54.95 (0912204)
From a single vineyard, this wine is an inky ruby-purple colour. A pronounced black fruit nose is followed by a dry and full-bodied palate with 14.8% alcohol and moderate tannins framing intense flavours of mocha, plum, cedar, blackberry and raspberry. Best food match? Easy. Try some decadent dark chocolate! (LG)


Langmeil ‘Hangin’ Snakes’ Shiraz/Viognier 2006
Barossa Valley, South Australia $22.95 (0077685)
The ‘Hangin’ Snakes’ Blend is composed of 95% Shiraz with a splash of 5% Viognier. Juicy red and black fruit on the nose is carried onto the palate along with some liquorice and vanilla notes. With 14.5% alcohol and a full mouth feel, velvety tannins add substance to the lush fruit flavours. (LG)


Langmeil ‘Three Gardens’ Shiraz/Grenache/Mourvèdre 2006
Barossa Valley, South Australia $21.95 (0644047)
In theory, a Rhône-style blend of 44% Shiraz, 35% Grenache and 21% Mourvèdre. Aged 12 months in seasoned French and American oak to give the wine a kiss of spice. Deep ruby with red fruit and meatiness on the nose. Dry and full bodied with pronounced aromas of black cherry, cassis, tobacco and plum. Well-structured tannins with 14.5% alcohol are followed by a lingering spice and black fruit finish. A great match would be a juicy filet mignon rare to medium rare with roasted and herb-scented fingerling potatoes and roasted garlic sautéed spinach. (LG)


Thorn-Clarke ‘Terra Barossa’ 2005
Barossa, South Australia $15.95 (684357)
The price to quality balance is tipped well in your favour; pick up an armful. The nose is highly perfumed with aromas of spice box and crushed dried berries. The palate is treated to a gorgeous mouthful of rich ripe and sweet cassis, Bing cherry and blueberry flavours. It’s medium in weight, nicely texture sporting a well-balanced and lengthy finish. Pair this with a thick beefsteak grilled rare to medium rare. (VH)


Mornington Estate Chardonnay 2005
Mornington Peninsula, Victoria $22.95 (072850)
The lifted and alluring nose offers ripe apple and peach aromas. It’s medium to full bodied, generously textured and delivers a focused stream of vibrant flavours including crisp and clean citrus, ripe yellow peach and hints of vanilla. Deftly balanced and sporting a finish with hits of zesty lime, this pairs well with pan-fried white fish under a drizzle of butter and fresh lemon. (VH)


Granite Hills Riesling 2006
Macedon Ranges, Victoria, Knight $22.95 (0072876)
Medium straw in colour with a classic Riesling nose of faint petrol, floral notes, green apple, citrus and mineral. With your first sip, you will find it dry and light bodied with focused acidity and great purity of fruit. This is perfect for calamari grilled with sea salt and lemon, or likewise any simple seafood dishes. (LG)


Wolf Blass ‘Gold Label’ Riesling 2007
Adelaide, South Australia $20.95 (606269)
A pungent nose of machine-oil, mineral and steely notes segue a gargantuan gusher of ripe citrus and Granny Smith apple flavours on the palate. It’s crisp, clean, refreshing and lip-smacking good. Medium bodied with a very creamy texture, it sports a lengthy finish with oodles of nerve and verve. Pair this with sushi or seafood ceviche. (VH)


Skillogalee Sparkling Riesling
Clare Valley, South Australia $23.95 (072868)
Exotic spice and honeysuckle aromas float off the glass of this delightful sparkler. Skillogalee does everything with excellence—hand-picked fruit, low yields, made méthode champenoise. You’ll discover endless froth with flavours of sweet ripe fruit—peach, nectarine and ripe mango. It cleans up nicely on the finish, leaving you wanting more. At this price you can pour it freely; it’s very good value. This is a wine that will welcome your guests then pour alongside seafood, chicken or veal appetizers. (VH)



Domaine Rochevine ‘Cave Saint Désirat’ Saint-Joseph 2005
AOC Saint-Joseph $27.95 (0733923)
Funky, complex and savoury aromas on the nose. On the palate it is dry and full bodied with velvety tannins, 12.5% alcohol and notes of pepper, red fruit, barnyard and gamey meat. Not everyone’s cup of tea, but for those who enjoy this style, they will be well rewarded for picking up this bottle. (LG)


Montirius Vacqueyras ‘Le Clos’ 2005
AOC Vacqueyras $28.95 (076547)
Smoky bacon with earthy notes on the nose, this really delivers an eye brow raising mélange of expressive textures and flavours with sweet ripe and juicy dark berries, supple tannin and all manner of spice and herbs on the lingering finish. It’s full bodied, medium textured, interesting and complex. Aerate/decant for a couple of hours then pour it with devilled kidneys or steak tartare. (VH)




Pol Roger Brut Rosé ‘Extra Cuvée de Réserve’ 2000
AOC Champagne $94.95 (0082495)
A pretty, pale salmon-orange colour with a crisp, fresh berry nose. On the palate it is dry and medium bodied with a fine mousse, 12% alcohol and aromas of blood orange, grapefruit, floral notes and red berries. Elegant, refined, delicate and classic—worth the splurge. (LG)



Fielding Estate Unoaked Chardonnay 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula $15.00 (078527)
This is chockfull of complex aromas and flavours with tropical fruit—pineapple and honeydew melon—yellow plum and ripe citrus among them. They reflect the glorious ‘07 vintage in Niagara. It’s medium bodied, generously textured, almost creamy, and finishes crisp and refreshing. The deft balance, versatility as a food wine and attractive price make this a great buy. Pair with all manner of seafood or chicken and veal dishes. (VH)


Henry of Pelham Icewine Cabernet Franc 2007
VQA Short Hills Bench $39.95 (672402) 200 mL
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) There are luscious aromas and flavours galore in this extremely well-balanced, estate-grown treasure. Predominantly strawberry, cranberry and raspberry, you'll also find lovely nuances of mixed spice and cherry clafoutie. This crisp acidity keeps this sweet dessert wine from becoming cloying, allowing the second glass to be as enjoyable as the first. The luscious nectar lingers on the finish for almost a minute. Serve well chilled at the end of the meal or as the winery suggests, pour a splash in a glass then fill with their sparkling wine for a Kir Catharine. (VH)


Henry of Pelham Cabernet Sauvignon Rosé 2007
VQA Ontario $14.95 (685610)
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) Intriguing aromas of allspice, earthiness and black berry fruit provide segue to this beautifully structured (more body than most) and fully flavoured rosé. Look for spice, red cherry and vibrant citrus flavours that coalesce on a vibrant refreshing and lip-smacking finish brimming with berry fruit and citrus flavours. Lovely flying solo, it also pairs well with seafood paella—serve chilled. (VH)



Ironstone Vineyards ‘Obsession Symphony’ 2007
California $14.95 (355784)
Musky, floral and Turkish delight aromas waft off the extremely fragrant nose of this idiosyncratic gem. It’s medium in weight and texture delivering a mouthful of sweet and ripe flavours with musk melon, fresh grape and spiced lemon to the fore. There’s good moderating acidity on the lingering finish. As the Vintages catalogue suggests, it’s a popular go-to wine for pairing with spicy Asian dishes. (VH)


Kendall-Jackson 'Vintner's Reserve' Chardonnay 2005
California $19.95 (369686)
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) The nutty, mineral and vanilla aromas provide segue to a clean and refreshing Chardonnay; there's no hint of buttery or over-oaked characteristics. This is taut and lean with crispy citrus acidity that's counter-balanced with tropical fruit—pineapple and melon—along with hints of tree fruit. There's good overall balance allowing it to be a suitable partner with pan-seared freshwater fish under a drizzle of freshly squeezed lemon. (VH)


Sterling Chardonnay 2006
Napa Valley $22.95 (330233)
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) Scoring highly on the Wow! meter, it also displays some elegant nuances. Brioche, vanilla and smoky on the nose, the fruit gets into high gear by attacking the palate in velvety textured waves with tropical fruit, peach, citrus and green apple to the fore. Incredible balance and a lengthy finish portend a healthy four to five year drinking window. Pair with lobster bisque. This is a Winecurrent.com exceptional value pick. (VH)



Freemark Abbey Cabernet Sauvignon 2002
Napa Valley $44.95 (0904532)
With cedar, cherry and blackberries on the nose, it follows onto the palate dry and full bodied with fresh acidity and firm tannins. A classic Cab with 14.7% alcohol, it should be put away for 2-3 years in order to catch it at its peak. (LG)


Justin Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
Paso Robles $32.95 (684308)
Warm clear days and cool nights allow Paso Robles to produce outstanding wines, and here’s one. There are lifted aromas of dark black berry fruit with dusty and earthy nuances that segue a well-focused and persistent stream of flavours that include black currant, red pie cherry and nuances of espresso roast. There’s good body and texture with near-perfect balance. The ripe supple tannin adds interest and ageing potential. The lingering and luxurious finish—cherry and red currant—is lip-smacking delicious. It’s very good value. (VH)


Kenwood Pinot Noir 2006
Russian River Valley, Sonoma County $20.95 (0943225)
Earthy aromas of cherry, forest floor, cassis, and game. Dry, intense and medium bodied, the palate is freshened up by tart acidity. Well-structured tannins frame cherry, red berry, prune, meaty and spicy flavours. With a great long finish this wine is a good offering for the price, and could stand 2-3 years in the cellar. (LG)



Finca El Retiro Reserva Especial Tempranillo 2004
Mendoza $14.85 (057216)
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) A bargain basement red—as in, put this in the basement and drink 2011 to 2015—that opens with cedar, leather and spicy aromatics. You'll love the fruit flavours—racy red currant and cherry, plus cranberry—that are still in the grip of a firm tannic structure that will need time to soften. Even after cellaring it may need a two-hour decant/aeration then a pairing with a generous slab of rare- to medium-rare grilled beef. (VH)


Navarro Correas ‘Colección Privada’ Malbec 2006
Mendoza $15.95 (070078)
Red cherry, mixed spice, oak and earthy on the nose, this gets into gear on the palate with a glorious rush of nicely textured flavours with tangy red cherry, spice and sweet and juicy black plum to the fore. Medium weight and nicely framed by a supple tannin structure, this delivers an attractive price-quality proposition. It finishes fruit forward with a lingering balanced aftertaste. Grilled red meats the way you take them of the BBQ would pair well. Pick up a few. (VH)



Viña Montgras ‘Ninquén’ 2005
Colchagua Valley $27.95 (675553)
Colchagua lays claim to Chile’s most exciting wine region. It’s based on the near-perfect growing conditions and the outstanding red wines being produced there. This is medium to full bodied and nicely textured with good expression of fruit on the nose and palate—black cherry, mulberry and black currant. It’s well structured and provides depth and concentration of flavours throughout. The tannin is perceptible, but not obtrusive while the lengthy and well-balanced finish layers on dark and juicy berry fruit flavours along with notes of toast and black licorice. (VH)


Santa Ema Reserve Merlot 2005
Maipo Valley $14.95 (642538)
There’s good value here as this Merlot exhibits personality and complexity. Aromas of dark berry fruit plus smoke and oak blow off the nose of this silky-textured medium-weight stylish red. The flavours on the palate are all about black briary berry and spiced black plum and they’re joined on the finish by sweet dark fruit along with nuances of dark chocolate. This earned its final half star on the value it provides. (VH)


Santa Rita 'Medalla Real' Reserva Especial Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
Maipo Valley $19.95 (275594)
Alluring aromas of mint, earthy notes and dark berry fruit show the way for this full-bodied and generously textured beauty. It sports a juicy mouthful of ripe briary fruit that’s ably supported by red cherry tang and a perceptible tannin structure. The finish is monumental in length with ripe dark berry fruit, espresso roast, oaky notes and spice box among the lingering flavours. Well balanced and classy, pick up a half dozen for delightful drinking now—after a three-hour aeration/decant—until 2014. (VH)



Allan Scott Family Winemakers Pinot Noir 2006
Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand $24.95
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) Winemaker Josh Scott, recently in Ontario, provided this technical data—12 year old vines; three Dijon clones-777, 667 and 115; partial French (Allier) 'light toast' oak aging; a cold soak and lengthy wild yeast fermentation. Look for a tantalizing nose of toast, spice and earthiness and a well-balanced stream of ripe fresh fruit flavours—red cherry, black raspberry and mulberry—along with oodles of acidity for balance. The texture is particularly plush on a medium-weight frame. The lingering luxurious finish portends life until at least 2012. (VH)



Bon Cap Organic Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
WO Robertson $19.95 (0011064)
This organic wine spent 14 months in French and American oak, 10% of it in new barrels. It has a deep maraschino cherry, kirsch, raspberry and strawberry bouquet. It’s dry and full bodied in the mouth with velvety tannins and 14.5% alcohol. (LG)


Darling Cellars ‘Onyx Kroon’ 2003
WO Darling $17.95 (0900639)
This blend of 55% Shiraz, 35% Pinotage, 5% Grenache and 5% Cinsault is co-fermented then matured in 300L new French oak barrels for 13 months. On the nose it has aromas bringing to mind roasted coffee beans, cocoa, spice, cherry and cassis. This is dry and full bodied with meatier flavours on the palate along with some spicy notes. Well-built and 14.5% alcohol with decent complexity. An excellent bottle for the price. (LG)


Graham Beck ‘Gameskeeper’ Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
WO Robertson $19.95 (0002519)
In the glass, this Cab is a great deep ruby colour with sweet aromas of raspberry, cherry and cassis. Moving on to the palate it is dry and full bodied, framed by medium tannins and a high 15% alcohol. (LG)


Morgenster ‘Lourens River Valley’ 2003
WO Stellenbosch $21.95 (0709303)
With Giulio Bertrand as proprietor, this is a blend of 68% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon and 12% Cabernet Franc. Nice spice and cedar nose with cherry, mulberry and cassis fruit. With a warm 15% alcohol, it is dry and full bodied with firm tannins and tasty flavours of meaty bacon, dill and tobacco. This would be great with a hearty Pot-au-feu on a chilly day. (LG)


Rust En Vrede Estate Merlot 2005
WO Stellenbosch $18.95 (0068759)
This wine was made using one-quarter new oak barrels. The bouquet exhibits notes of cherry, cassis, leather and lead. Dry and full bodied with structured, muscular tannins and lengthy finish along with 14.5% alcohol. With this Merlot you will find a lot of substance for a reasonable price. (LG)



Familie Nigl ‘Gartling’ Grüner Veltliner 2007
Kremstal $20.95 (085415)
If you’re still reading, pick some of this up—it’s from one of Austria’s top producers of this grape and it’s plain delicious. Citrus peel and honeysuckle on the nose, the palate is treated to a wave of delectable fruit flavours with tropical fruit salad, ripe nectarine and racy citrus up front. It finishes lengthy, well balanced, crisp and refreshing. Pair this with a bowl of mussels steamed in their own juices and a cup of this wine. (VH)



Pierre Sparr ‘Altenbourg’ Riesling 2003
AOC Alsace $20.95 (906016)
Five years of ageing brought out the highly desirable honey, floral and petrol aromas in this gorgeously textured wine. Honeyed, ripe and sweet tropical fruit flavours abound on the palate—ripe pineapple, mango and honeydew melon. This offers delicate balance—sufficient moderating acidity is delivered on the lengthy finish via white grapefruit tang—and a mouth-watering finish. You would do well pairing this with a pan-grilled freshwater fish like trout under a drizzle of freshly squeezed lemon alongside steamed rice with peas. (VH)



Château Brehat 2001
AOC Côtes de Castillon $22.95 (0043828)
Deep ruby in colour, there are loads of cherry fruit, lead and liquorice on both the nose and the palate. Dry and full bodied with 13.5% alcohol and good structure still present, impressive considering it’s a 7 year-old entry level Bordeaux. A steal for just over twenty dollars. (LG)


Château Verdignan 2001
AOC Haut-Medoc $32.95 (0087304)
Notes of raisin, prune, cherry, cassis and meat are showcased on the nose. On the palate it’s dry and full bodied with good tannin structure and 12.5% alcohol. (LG)


Clos des Menuts 2004
AOC Saint-Emilion Grand Cru $32.95 (0086447)
A blend of 85% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Cabernet Franc, this lovely Saint-Emilion is a deep ruby colour with enticing spice, leather, cherry and cassis on the nose. Dry and full bodied with fine-grained tannins and 13% alcohol, it has exceptional complexity and length. It’s not possible to go wrong with this one. (LG)


Clos du Marquis 2004
AOC Saint-Julien $70.95 (0669671)
If you’re looking to pick up a special bottle, this wine would be a good choice. Deep ruby in colour, with savoury aromas of spice, cocoa, tobacco, coffee, cherry and cassis. The fine-grained tannins support its full body and 13% alcohol. This would also make a great gift as it’s a wine you could stash away in the cellar for 5-7 years more. (LG)


Les Hauts de Lynch-Moussas 2003
AOC Haut-Médoc $33.95 (0081885)
Les Hauts de Lynch-Moussas is the second wine of Château Lynch-Moussas. The lead cherry, cassis, spice, game and savoury aromas are followed by a dry and full-bodied palate with approachable tannins and 12.5% alcohol. (LG)



Domaine Large Côte-de-Brouilly 2006
AOC Côte de Brouilly $16.95 (0742585)
With a medium ruby hue this wine displays notes of berry, cassis and cedar. Dry and medium bodied with bright acidity, approachable tannins and 13% alcohol. There’s even more fruit on the palate with juicy black cherry, strawberry and cassis. This is a perfect food wine because of its softer tannins and higher acidity, making it very versatile and easy to match with almost any deli dish. (LG)



Bouchard Père & Fils Beaune Teurons 2006
AOC Beaune Teurons $53.95 (0653675)
Alluring aromas of cherry, strawberry, light pepper, nutmeg, earth and cedar envelop the nose. Dry and medium bodied with vibrant acidity, well-structured tannins and tart red fruit on the finish. 13.5% alcohol. (LG)


Domaine Jean Chauvenet Nuits-Saint-Georges 2005
AOC Nuits-Saint-Georges $53.95 (0091322)
A youthful deep ruby colour, still with tinges of purple. Complex tertiary aromas on the nose—dried fruit, prune, date and earth. Its medium body, 13% alcohol and balanced acidity are supported by structured tannins and dense black fruit on the palate. (LG)



Domaine Madeloc ‘Cuvée Magneca’ 2004
AOC Collioure $35.95 (0076539)
Deep ruby in the glass with funky, layered aromas of animal, old leather, red fruits, plum and liquorice. With a well-balanced palate, it’s dry and full bodied showcasing velvety tannins along with 14% alcohol. This is a chewier wine that would pair well with bison tenderloin, rare to medium-rare, with a blueberry and cassis reduction. (LG)



Reichsgraf Von Kesselstatt Riesling Kabinett 1998
QmP Kaseler Nies’chen, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer $20.95 (0940809)
This Riesling begins with a subtle nose of apple, floral, lavender, honey and lemon. Off dry, light bodied and low in alcohol (8.5%), fresh acidity offsets the sweetness resulting in a well-balanced and sophisticated wine. (LG)



Antinori Castello Della Sala ‘Cervaro Della Sala’ 2006
IGT Umbria $54.95 (0512376)
From the celebrated Antinori Family, this Umbrian IGT is a blend of Chardonnay and Grechetto. It’s medium straw in colour with a pronounced bouquet of smoke, flint, mineral, apple and citrus. Dry and full bodied with 13% alcohol, fresh acidity complements riper fruit aromas of red apple, pineapple and almond. This wine will benefit from a year or two in the cellar. (LG)



Fontanafredda Barbera ‘Briccotondo’ 2007
DOC Piedmont $15.95 (072348)
Rich and perfumed black currant and Earl Grey tea aromas, a.k.a. bergamot, open this juicy well-balanced red. There’s a rush of intense and expressive fruit flavours with black raspberry, cassis and dark bitter-sweet chocolate predominant. It’s fully textured and well structured with ripe tannins and a lingering fruity finish. The price-quality balance is tipped crazily in your favour, pick up a cartful for drinking over the next three years. You’ll be paying well over twenty dollars for a wine of this calibre by then. (VH)


Ampeleia 2004
IGT Maremma, Toscana $37.95 (0073403)
A blend of 50% Cabernet Franc, 20% Sangiovese and 20% other Mediterranean varieties, with an average age of 15 years and yielding a low 18-25 hl/ha. Aged for 16 months in 40% new oak barrels, there were only 54 000 bottles of the 2004 vintage produced. With its deep ruby colour and playful cherry candy notes on the nose, it is dry and medium to full bodied with ripe tannins, bright acidity and 14% alcohol. (LG)


Antinori Pèppoli Chianti Classico 2005
DOCG Chianti Classico $19.95 (606541)
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) Classic, as well as Classico, this Chianti offers a textbook version of well-made wine from this well-respected region. Floral, mineral and dark berry fruit on the nose, the palate is treated to a crisp and zesty onslaught of racy flavours that are in the red currant and cranberry zones. Medium bodied and medium textured, it layers on fresh red cherry flavours and spice on the dry finish. Pair with a spicy tomato-based sauce dish—pasta arrabiata or pasta in a puttenesca sauce would be perfect. (VH)


Terrabianca ‘Piano del Cipresso’ 2004
IGT Toscana $37.95 (0082321)
This Tuscan IGT is 100% Sangiovese with a rustic bouquet of raisin, dried fruit, black cherry and spice. Dry and full bodied with vibrant acidity, silky tannins and 13% alcohol. To get your mouth watering, think of sipping this alongside a delicious dish of rabbit with cranberry bread stuffing, finished off with a clove and orange glaze. (LG)


Castello Vicchiomaggio ‘Ripa Delle More’ 2004
IGT Toscana $38.95 (983775)
John Matta, winemaker and owner, has his stamp all over this ‘super Tuscan’; it’s elegant and age-able, yet approachable. The blend, 60% Sangiovese, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot, is overflowing with aromas and flavours of toasty oak, mixed spice box, rich and concentrated dark berry fruit, that are delivered on a medium- to full-bodied frame. It’s satin smooth on the palate despite perceptible tannin. The fruity finish lingers with added notes of herb and spice. This will deliver a hedonistic drinking experience now to 2014. (VH)



Quinta de Ventozelo Touriga Nacional Tinto 2004
DOC Douro $18.95 (657452)
A premium Port producer, this wine shows their excellent winemaking skills are not limited to a single genre. Pungent spice and red berry fruit aromas segue the rich and concentrated flavours of this behometh—dusty, earthy, dark, dried and crushed berry fruit that’s still wound in a grippy tannin structure. There’s balance and depth, but it needs four years in the cellar before opening. Drink 2012 to 2017. (VH)



Palacios Remondo ‘Plácet’ 2006
DOCa Rioja $29.95 (0675934)
An interesting wine made from 100% barrel fermented Viura. Pale to medium straw in colour, it has a shy nose of mineral, citrus and floral notes. Dry, 13.5% alcohol and medium bodied, with refreshing acidity and green fruit aromas on the palate. Decanting this wine is highly recommended in order to fully benefit from its lovely structure and layered complexity. It will be even greater in 3-5 years. (LG)



Alvaro Palacios ‘Les Terrasses’ 2006
DOCa Priorat $39.95 (977843)
This opens with a highly perfumed nose of exotic spice and leather. It’s medium to full bodied, well balanced and delivers a focused stream of red currant and cranberry tang. There’s ripe tannin and good balance while the finish is quite fruity, if a bit short. Best paired with pasta or meat-based dishes in a tomato sauce like lasagna, Swiss steak or spaghetti Bolognese. (VH)


Coto de Imaz Rioja Reserva 2001
DOCa Rioja Reserva $19.95 (0023762)
This charming Spanish red has a great unusual, complex nose of dill, herbs, cherry, cassis, cedar and earth. It follows on the palate dry and full bodied, with firm tannins and 13.5% alcohol. Rugged and rustic, it’s hard not to like. (LG)


Paso A Paso Tempranillo 2006
DO La Mancha $14.95 (082206)
Sandalwood, tar and spicy on the nose, this is light to medium bodied and quite delicate in texture. The flavours are concentrated and in the red currant and choke cherry zones with a taut and abbreviated drying finish. It opens up after a two-hour aeration/decant and pairs well with chicken and sausage jambalaya. (VH)


Bodegas Alejandro Fernández Tinto ‘Pesquera’ Crianza 2005
DO Ribera del Duero $30.95 (0341461)
Jammy fruit aroma—blueberry, black cherry, cassis and liquorice are up front, with a dry, full bodied and 14% alcohol palate. With great concentration, firm tannins and mellow acidity, a lingering black fruit finish just seals the deal. (LG)


Bodegas Alejandro Fernández Tinto ‘Pesquera’ Reserva 2004
DO Ribera del Duero $47.95 (0323345)
Sticky raisin and prune nuances on the nose. Dry, full bodied and 14% alcohol, it’s nice and ripe with structured tannins, jammy black fruit and good length on the finish. (LG)



Stratus Petit Verdot 2005
VQA Niagara Peninsula $42.00
Smoky bacon and earthy notes contribute to the aromatic profile on this medium-weight, generously textured red. There’s a mélange of deep and rich flavours including espresso roast, mocha and spiced black currant. For now, they’re wound up in a grippy tannin structure requiring two to three additional years in the bottle. There’s good depth and concentration, a lingering finish and a fair dollop of moderating acidity, all portending a glorious wine to be enjoyed 2011 to 2015. (VH)


Stratus Red 2005
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $44.00 (66072)
This is delicious and very approachable; it sports a plush texture, well-integrated oak and ripe supple tannin. Earthy, spicy and expressive on the nose, it provides a luscious wave of fruit on the mid palate—black currant, spicy black plum and ripe Bing cherry—and welcomed moderating tang and zest on the well-balanced and lingering finish. It’s medium bodied, well structured and with enough oomph to provide enjoyable drinking now to 2014. Pair this with a dry-rubbed rack of lamb, grilled medium rare. (VH)


Stratus White 2005
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $44.00 (660704)
A cornucopia of aromas—spice box and herbal notes, citrus and tree fruit—segue intense flavours of ripe yellow peach, tropical fruit and citrus that arrive in wave after delicious wave in this proprietary-blend white. It’s full of flavour, nicely textured and provides a well-balanced, crisp, refreshing and lingering finish. Gorgeous when sipped on its own, it’s also a natural pairing with mussels or pan-seared white fish under a drizzle of freshly squeezed lemon. (VH)




Caymus ‘Conundrum’ 2006
Rutherford $26.95 (694653)
A quirky blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, Chardonnay, Viognier and Muscat, the exotic aromas are legendary—orange blossom, spice box, musk melon and honeyed tropical fruit, to name a few. It’s slightly off-dry and chockfull of soft uncomplicated flavours like citrus and ripe peach and yellow plum. There’s considerable tang, delivering the sweet and tang that pairs so well with spicy Asian cuisine; try butter chicken or Thai chicken curry. This is a ‘Vintages Essentials’ product—always available in selected LCBO stores. (VH)

Justin 'Isosceles' 2005
Paso Robles $73.95 (684282)
This hand-crafted 'Bordeaux blend'—78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Cabernet Franc and 7% Merlot—is rich, complex and elegant. It was hand-harvested and aged in French oak, 65% new, for 24 months. Dark and brooding in the glass, the aromas include sweet mulberry, mint and kirsch liqueur. The dazzling array of persistent flavour includes cassis, espresso roast and black juicy Bing cherry. The supple ripe tannins and rich oak treatment are seamlessly integrated while the balance is perfect. The lingering fruity finish portends optimum drinking now to 2014. Connoisseurs, collectors and wine-lovers will want some of this. (VH)

Treana Winery ‘Liberty School’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
California $16.95 (738823)
This is a ‘Vintages Essentials’ product—always available in selected LCBO stores. Very expressive on the nose, look for aromas of dark plum, mint and earthy notes. There’s a rich gusher of sweet ripe dark berry fruit flavours that are nicely balanced with pie cherry zest and tang. This is well structured, nicely focused and lingers on the deftly balanced finish. It provides very good value. Pair with strip loin, bar-b-cued rare to medium rare. (VH)



Coopers Creek Sauvignon Blanc 2007
Marlborough, South Island $16.95 (957407)
Lifted and pungent aromas of gooseberry, peach and nettles blast off this nicely sculpted, full-flavoured gem. There are oodles of ripe flavours with peach, guava and pineapple up front. It’s medium bodied, well balanced and generously textured with a tang-laden and lingering finish. Pair with breaded and deep-fried calamari alongside a garlic mayo dip. This is a ‘Vintages Essentials’ product—always available in selected LCBO stores. (VH)



Bodegas Muga ‘Reserva’ 2004
DOCa Rioja $24.95 (177345)
This is a gargantuan effort that will reward careful cellaring (cool and dark) by delivering a richly concentrated wine that will drink well 2011 to 2017. It’s a blend—70% Tempranillo, 20% Garnacha and a 10% mix of Mazuelo and Graciano—that offers a lifted nose of smoky oak and dark berries. It’s richly textured and full of flavour with gobs of ripe briary berry and sweet warm (14% alcohol) cherry fruit. There’s excellent balance from moderating acidity and a grippy tannin structure. It offers good value for those with patience. This is a ‘Vintages Essentials’ product—always available in selected LCBO stores. (VH)



Familia Zuccardi ‘Fuzion’ Shiraz - Malbec 2007
Mendoza $7.45 (83188)
This bistro-styled blend, 70% Shiraz, 30% Malbec, has caused quite a splash in the wine press and amongst those seeking an inexpensive red. It’s been available in the SAQ for some time and since its recent arrival in the LCBO, it’s out of stock more than in. It’s a crowd-pleasing red with gobs of rich jammy fruit—black currant, sweet black plum and sweet black cherry. It sports a creamy texture and a lengthy fruit-forward finish—what’s not to like? Now, to find some. (VH)


Santa Carolina ‘Brut Reserve’ N/V
Valle de Casablanca $12.95 (94656)
This is a classy blend of 90% Chardonnay—stainless steel fermented—and 10% Chenin Blanc—picked very ripe and barrel fermented. Steely, mineral and ripe tree fruit aromas burst from the endless froth while the tropical fruit and crisp citrus flavours are deliciously delivered on a plush and velvet-smooth texture. It finishes clean and crisp with solid fruit flavours. This earned it’s final half star on the terrific value it offers. Should be in stores the first week of November. (VH)



Jindalee Shiraz 2007
South East Australia $10.95 (591818)
This is a great crowd-pleaser with a nose of crushed, dried dark berry fruit and a generous wave of ripe sweet (14% alcohol) fruit flavours on the palate. Look for cassis, black currant and Bing cherry flavours that stream right through the lengthy finish. There’s good weight, it’s nicely textured and has enough zest and tang for reasonable balance. It earned its final half star on value; give it a go with burgers, lasagna or pizza. (VH)




Forest Ville Merlot 2006
California $9.95 (487736)
Smoky notes and black licorice aromas waft off the nose of this medium-bodied, generously textured and exceptionally good-value red. There are oodles of rich and concentrated flavours with black cherry and mixed spice discernible. The balance is near perfect with a firm structure and good zest and tang throughout. There’s perceptible tannin on the finish; a two-hour aeration / decant is in order. Drink with comfort food—pizza, burgers or lasagna. (VH)



Fontanafredda Barolo 2004
DOCG Barolo $30.20 (020214)
Swirl and enjoy the gorgeous aromas of dark berry fruit and rich sweet cassis from this value-packed beauty. It’s medium to full bodied and delivers a mouthful of fruit flavours with sweet dark cherry to the fore, along with hints of spice. It’s underpinned by ripe supple tannin while the nicely balanced lingering finish delivers another hit of sweet ripe dark berry fruit. It’s more approachable than most four-year-old Barolos and pairs well with osso bucco. (VH)



Colio Estates CEV Late Harvest Vidal 2006
VQA Ontario $12.85 (470369) 375 mL
This has the ideal size and the perfect flavours to match up to pumpkin pie or simple fruit flans. Perfumed aromas of nectarine, apricot and fig waft from the glass of this truly delightful dessert wine. It’s pure ambrosia on the palate with flavours of honeyed spiced tropical fruit including sweet and ripe mango. It’s well balanced, generously textured and finishes lengthy and clean, leaving room for one more very thin piece of that pie. This will serve four people; it’s very good value. (VH)


Coyote's Run Cabernet 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula $16.70 (26757)
This 50/50 blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc delivers a complex and juicy mouthful of sweet dark fruit with black currant and spicy black Damson plum that’s underpinned by ripe supple tannin. The enticing aromas include toasty notes, tobacco and cherry. It's medium bodied, generously textured and finishes the way it begins—complex and well balanced with flavours and aromas of rich dark spicy fruit with subtle hints of oak—both American and French were used. This offers a world of value with the price-quality balance tipped well in your favour. (VH)



Cat’s Pee on a Gooseberry Bush Sauvignon Blanc 2007
New Zealand $13.95 (606384)
A pungent aspect of some Sauvignon Blanc—from a volatile compound known as MMP—is an aroma sometimes described as cat urine. Another aroma often found is gooseberry, hence the name of this wine. There are pleasant aromas of citrus and apple, plus gooseberry and herbaceous nuances on the nose while the palate is treated to a steady stream of white grapefruit and lemon-lime flavours. It’s medium in weight, texture and finish. Fish and virtually any type of seafood are good partners. A portion of the purchase price will be donated to the Ontario Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals. (VH)



Colio Estates CEV Chardonnay Musqué 2007
VQA Lake Erie North Shore $15.35
This lives up to it’s breeding—it’s an aromatic clone of Chardonnay—with highly perfumed orange blossom, spice box and honey aromas. It’s medium bodied and fully textured, almost creamy, with citrus, ripe yellow peach and cantaloupe flavours. It’s zesty, crisp and clean on the medium-length perfectly balanced finish. Pair this with roast chicken with dried fruit stuffing or pan-seared white fish. Available from Colio Estates, their many winery retail stores. For daily home or office delivery, in cases of six or twelve, e-mail Gord Weber This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.. (VH)


Colio Estates CEV ‘Six Barrel’ Shiraz 2006
VQA Ontario $24.75
This is a delectable Rhône-styled red that offers up aromas of black pepper, mixed herb and spice, and oodles of dark rich berry fruit—makes you wonder why they didn’t call it Syrah. It’s fully textured, medium bodied and delivers a steady stream of well-focused delicious flavours with black currant, sweet briary berry and spiced black plum to the fore. There’s a touch of sweet ripe fruit flavours throughout the well balanced and lengthy finish. When first told there were Shiraz plantings in Ontario, I cavalierly asked, why bother? I’ve changed my tune and question to, why not? Available from Colio Estates, their many winery retail stores. For daily home or office delivery, in cases of six or twelve, email Gord Weber This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.. (VH)


Coyote's Run 'Red Paw' Pinot Gris 2007
VQA Four Mile Creek $18.20
This offers a fuller body, creamier texture and more complexity than most wine made from this varietal; it's more Alsace than Niagara. It showcases the terroir and the wine maker, it's simply outstanding. Aromas of spring blossoms and tree fruit segue a tropical fruit salad bowl of flavours with honeyed melon, ripe pineapple and mango predominant. There's also an element of citrus and spice on the deftly balanced and refreshing finish. This is a natural to be served with Alsace onion tart. For daily delivery to home or office order by the case direct from Coyote's Run. (VH)


Coyote's Run 'Red Paw' Syrah 2006
VQA Four Mile Creek $24.20
This is gorgeous. It offers up an aromatic nose of mixed spice, floral notes and dark berry fruit. The fruit-forward flavours burst on the palate with sweet and juicy Bing cherry, mulberry and a delicious stream of moderating tang. It's full bodied, nicely textured and extremely well balanced—even the alcohol level has been held in check at 12.5%, providing a pleasurable experience, glass after glass. It finishes lengthy and pairs well with osso bucco. For daily delivery to home or office order by the case direct from Coyote's Run. (VH)


Huff Estates ‘first frost’ Vidal 2007
VQA Ontario $18.95 500 mL
From grapes hand harvested near the first frost, this delivers a stunning mouthful of sweet, rich, ripe fruit flavours of peach, apricot and tropical fruit. They’re deftly balanced with racy and heady acidity. It offers a medium body and a generous texture while the finish is lingering and luxurious. How can wine taste this good? A portion of the unfermented grape juice was set aside, never fermented and added back later to the now-fermented wine then bottled—a process known as süss-reserve. It’s off-dry and on the mark for a pairing with fruit flans or blue-veined cheese. For home or office delivery by the case, order from Huff Estates. (VH)


Konzelmann ‘Winemaker’s Collection’ Reserve Pinot Grigio 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula $15.00 (605360)
Alluring aromas of peach, floral notes and mineral nuances roll off the glass of this zesty gem. It’s medium bodied and delivers a steady stream of lemon-lime zest along with ripe and luscious flavours of peach, pear and apple. This is deftly balanced, nicely textured and delivers a dry, clean and refreshing finish. Pair this with lightly pan-seared, sushi-grade Tuna alongside a quinoa salad. Order by the case for daily home or office delivery direct from Konzelmann. (VH)


Konzelmann ‘Winemaker’s Collection’ Sauvignon Blanc 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula $17.00
Passion fruit and ripe tropical fruit—pineapple and honey dew melon—abound on the nose and palate of this medium-bodied and generously textured beauty. There’s also moderating and refreshing white grapefruit flavour with hints of fennel—particularly on the racy and lip-smacking finish. This has great balance and reflects the warm ’07 vintage, but still keep’ its nervy acidity. The price-quality ratio is skewed well in your favour. Order by the case for daily home or office delivery direct from Konzelmann. (VH)


Konzelmann ‘Select Late Harvest’ Riesling X Traminer 2004
VQA Niagara Peninsula $30.00 375 mL
This is not a blend of two grapes, but the name of a single vitis vinifera varietal—who knew? This is a gorgeous wine—crisp, clean and refreshing and that’s surprising as the sugar level approaches that of ice wine. There are delightful flavours of ripe lemon and sweet pineapple on the palate while a lingering finish introduces perfect balance with a generous hit of heady citrus tang. Medium bodied, nicely textured and mouth-watering delicious; it’s beautiful sipped on its own, as dessert, and matches well with simple fruit flans. Order by the case for daily home or office delivery direct from Konzelmann. (VH)


Stratus Riesling 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula $35.00
There’s a roomful of tantalizing aromas with floral notes, ripe citrus and steely mineral nuances up front. This is medium bodied and delivers a focused stream of crisp, refreshing zest and tang flavours—lemon-lime, pineapple and Granny Smith apple—that are delivered on a surprisingly generous texture. The racy laser-like mouth-watering finish portends a magical pairing with calamari under a drizzle of fresh lemon. Order by the case for daily home or office delivery via Stratus. (VH)


Strewn ‘Terroir’ Cabernet Franc 2006
VQA Niagara Lakeshore $29.00
This is one delicious red with its chockfull-of-flavour attack on the palate—chocolate-covered dark sweet black cherries and spiced ripe black Damson plum that’s all nicely balanced with a bracing stream of delightful tang. There’s perceptible tannin adding structure and ageing potential. It’s medium in weight, nicely textured and finishes lengthy and lip-smacking good. Drink now, after a three-hour aeration / decant, or cellar 2010 to 2015. Order by the case for daily home or office delivery via Strewn. (VH)


Strewn ‘Terroir’ French Oak Chardonnay 2007
VQA Niagara Lakeshore $24.95
From fully ripened fruit harvested in the Strewn Vineyard, this was aged in French 'Alliers' oak barrels. Aromas of toast and vanilla open this nicely textured medium- to full-bodied offering. That’s followed by expressive and elegant layers of ripe, sweet, tree fruit flavours—ripe yellow peach, succulent pear and apple. There’s a delightful edge on the lengthy finish as it cleans up nicely with a glorious gusher of spice-infused citrus flavours. It pairs well with roast chicken accompanied by root vegetables. Order by the case for daily home or office delivery via Strewn. (VH)


Strewn Sauvignon Blanc 2007
VQA Niagara Lakeshore $19.95
This is a gorgeous ripe wine on the palate; it reflects the very good ’07 vintage, along with typical herbaceous and grassy aromas on the nose. The ripe fruit flavours include nectarine and yellow plum juxtaposed with crisp and clean moderating green apple and citrus zest, leaving the palate cleansed and refreshed. There’s a splinter of oak and good viscosity leading to a generous texture and good weight; the balanced finish lingers. Order by the case for daily home or office delivery via Strewn. (VH)

Cheers, Vic and Lindsay