September 27th, 2008 Vintages Release

Winecurrent.com delivers a comprehensive and complete review of the Vintages Release wines tasted. No short cuts, no skimping, just honest and complete reviews of the wines that were made available for tasting at the LCBO, earning 3 stars and above, to help you make your selections.

This Vintages release and winecurrent newsletter begins with a feature on wine from Burgundy followed by a mini-feature on wine from Santa Barbara County, California. The familiar country/region format follows in the 'Main Release' with wines reviewed in the order they appear in the Vintages Release brochure.

Other highlights in this winecurrent newsletter include:

Winecurrent visited a number of premium Niagara wineries, tasting through barrel samples, '07 whites and '06 reds in the bottle. Be on the cutting edge with winery profiles and timely reviews in this second installment. Read more...
  • Chile continues to shine with very good, and very good-value, wines
  • Spain sparkles offering three gems
  • Where's Waldo? —after the Main Release there are a number of interesting wines, some of them stunning e.g. find the amazing Viognier with 4½ stars at $9.95!
An explanation of the scoring system and icons is included at the end of this newsletter.

Burgundy Feature


*** drink or cellar
Domaine de la Mandelière Chablis 2006
AOC Chablis $23.95 (087106)
In a lighter style, this crisp and refreshing Chardonnay offers a delightfully zippy white to be offered as an aperitif or paired with light appetizers of seafood, chicken or veal. It opens with a subtle nose of minerality while the flavours on the palate include ripe citrus and zesty green apple. It offers fair value. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Raphaël Dubois Nuits-Saint-Georges 2006
AOC Nuits-Saint-Georges $53.95 (084608)
Distinctive earthy and dusty aromas open this well-balanced and racy Pinot Noir. It's quite involved with a delicious mélange of zesty flavours including cranberry, pomegranate and pie cherry. Medium bodied and offering a generous texture, the perceptible tannin structure makes it almost 'chunky'. It finishes dry, clean and refreshing with a generous dollop of tang. Pair with Boeuf Bourguignon and drink now to 2014. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Gevrey-Chambertin Chemin de la Justice 2006
AOC Gevrey-Chambertin $55.95 (042077)
Floral and spice aromas define the nose on this medium-bodied well-structured gem. There's depth of flavour with ripe red berry fruit and smoky, gamey notes to the fore. It's deftly balanced, offering a lingering finish and touches of elegance. Pour alongside braised short ribs. (VH)

****1/2 cellar
Antonin Rodet Santenay Clos Rousseau 2005
AOC Santenay 1er Cru $31.95 (084566)
On balance, it's the best-value wine in this Burgundy feature. It's a powerful Pinot with lots of tannin evident—drink 2010 to 2017. Hand harvested, the cap was punched down (a.k.a. pigeage) twice daily, it underwent 100% malolactic while half the wine was aged in stainless steel and the balance in French oak for 18 months. Lifted lilac and dried berry fruit aromas segue fruity and expressive flavours of red currant, ripe sour cherry, vanilla and black pepper. It's medium to full bodied, nicely textured and would benefit from a three-hour aeration / decant, if you really can't wait. (VH)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Duvergey-Taboureau Pommard 2006
AOC Pommard $39.95 (084459)
The aromas and flavours in this light- to medium-bodied offering include floral and mineral notes along with sweet cherry fruit and spice on the palate followed by a generous ladleful of tang and zest on the medium-length finish. There's also perceptible tannin that will smooth out over the next two years. You can cellar this until 2014, if you wish. Pair with Swiss steak. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Domaine Chanson Beaune Teurons 2005
AOC Beaune 1er Cru $52.95 (084426)
This is a lovely wine with expressive aromas of toast, spice and floral notes that are nicely supported by mixed berry fruit. Ripe and dark berry fruit flavours—black currant, Bing Cherry and black raspberry—are nicely framed by moderating acidity and perceptible tannin. It's medium bodied, nicely textured and sports a drying medium-length finish. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Duvergey-Taboureau Puligny-Montrachet 2006
AOC Puligny-Montrachet $53.95 (084434)
Aromas of green apple, mineral and citrus open up this gorgeous well-balanced Chardonnay. Exuberant flavours of ripe yellow peach, apricot, citrus and vanilla are carried along on a fully textured, almost creamy, mouth feel. It finishes with apple compote and hints of honeyed pear flavours. Pair this with pan-seared scallops under a drizzle of freshly squeezed fresh lemon and over a bed of mesculan greens. (VH)

***** drink or cellar
Château de la Crée Chassagne-Montrachet Morgeot 2006
AOC Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru $79.95 (087163)
This has it all.... and then some. Oak, smoke and vanilla aromas roll off the nose of this outstanding wine. The buttery texture and well-defined acidity are seamlessly integrated with waves of flavours that include tropical fruit—melon and pineapple—green apple, citrus and yellow peach. It's impeccably balanced and layers on nutty flavours during the lingering finish. Pair with steamed lobster dipped in clarified butter. (VH)

**** drink now
Domaine Ferrand Pouilly-Fuissé Lise-Marie 2006
AOC Pouilly-Fuissé $28.95 (087114)
There's good value offered in this ready-to-drink white. With slate and notes of mineral aromas on the subtle nose, it kicks into gear with a gorgeous fully textured mouthful of heady and racy flavours including green apple, ripe citrus and white peach. Very clean, crisp and refreshing, this will pair extremely well with freshly shucked oysters on the half-shell under a generous squeeze of fresh lemon. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Raphaël Dubois Côte de Nuits-Villages Les Monts de Boncourts 2006
AOC Côte de Nuits-Villages $31.95 (084905)
Expressive and alluring aromas form the expressive nose on this gem with mineral, slate, anise and citrus predominant. The flavours don't mirror the aromas as they're all about ripe, almost sweet apple compote, nectarine and mixed spice. It's medium in body and length of finish. Pair with a pan-grilled fresh water fish like pickerel or trout dotted with butter and sprinkled with herbs. (VH)

Santa Barbara County Feature

****1/2 drink now
Lincourt Chardonnay 2005
Santa Barbara County $25.95 (069195)
This medium- to full-bodied beauty fairly explodes from the glass with a delightful meld of ripe fruit and searing acidity. Expect sweet (14.1% alcohol) ripe and succulent pit fruit flavours—peach, nectarine and yellow plum—with a generous helping of moderating acidity delivered through racy and refreshing citrus tang, all gliding on a bed of deliciously creamy texture. The layered finish lingers. Extremely good value here. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Belle Glos 'Clark and Telephone Vineyard' Pinot Noir 2006
Santa Maria Valley, Santa Barbara County $47.95 (652883)
Aromas of spice box and red berry fruit waft from this medium-bodied, fully flavoured and fully textured beauty. This is wonderful; it delivers a gusher of sweet, ripe fruit flavours with raspberry, currant and spiced cherry to the fore. It's well structured, deftly balanced, sports perceptible, but acceptable, tannin and delivers an interesting and lengthy finish by layering on nuances of mulberry and red licorice. Pair with steak Diane. (VH)

**** drink now
Lucas & Lewellen 'Hilltop' Pinot Noir 2004
Santa Barbara County $24.95 (067769)
You'll discover oodles of ripe and sweet berry flavours in this round n' ready, drink-me-now Pinot. Aromas of mixed spice, and field berry fruit form the nose while the flavours are certainly 'new world' in style—ripe and juicy cherry, ripe strawberry and black plum. However, it does show nice balance with a moderating hit of zippy tang that shows up on the finish. It's light to medium bodied and generously textured. Pair with steak and kidney pie. (VH)

The Main Release

Fortified Wines

****1/2 drink or cellar
Messias 10 Anos Tawny Port
Portugal $23.95 (087205)
It's not too early to be thinking of fortified wines and winter reds and this one warrants consideration. It's chockfull of spice, caramel, marmalade, nutty and fig flavours. Wonderfully viscous and warm on the palate, it delivers a fully textured and well-structured river of treacle-like flavours that pair perfectly with spice cake, crème brûlée or a salty aged hard cheese like parmigiano reggiano. (VH)

**** drink now
Quinta Do Portal Fine Ruby Port
Portugal $16.95 (087254)
There are aromas and flavours of spiced black plum, black cherry and black briary berry galore in this accessible-now Port. You'll find this fully textured, medium bodied and sporting a sweet and succulent fruity finish. It's versatile with food, pairing well with blue cheeses or cheddar, or coq au vin. This offers good value. (VH)

**** drink now
Domaine Fontanel Maury Vin Doux Naturel Rouge 2004
AOC Maury $28.95 (079061)
Maury and Banyuls (both areas are Grenache-predominant) produce some of the best fortified reds in the wine world. Lucky for you, few others have discovered this, keeping the price-quality ratio well in your favour. This delivers a robust and succulent mouthful of mixed spice, sweet black raspberry jam and ripe and juicy black cherry flavours—think super-sweet Zinfandel on steroids. It finishes warm and fruity with added hints of fig and raisin. This is perfect with any 'death by dark chocolate' dessert. (VH)

Champagne

****1/2 drink or cellar
Taittinger Brut Reserve Champagne
AOC Champagne $63.95 (814723)
Tattinger's total production is 5 million bottles per annum and 4 million is this very popular Brut Réserve. Uncharacteristically for a Champagne with such high production, it's predominantly Chardonnay (40%) with the balance an even split between Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. Twenty percent of the wine is from previous vintages—15% from the previous year's harvest and 5% from 2 years before with the wine cellared 3 to 4 years before release. Look for an aromatic nose of citrus, green apple and floral notes then a riveting attack on the palate of a frothy expansive mousse delivering citrus (white grapefruit and lemon), mineral notes and pear. This exhibits delicate balance and an air of elegance, finishing clean and refreshing. It's a natural as an aperitif and pairs extremely well with pan-seared white fish under a drizzle of freshly-squeezed lemon. (VH)

Ontario: White

**** drink or cellar
Château des Charmes Estate 'Late Harvest' Riesling 2006
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $19.95 (432930) 375 mL
What a lovely, refreshing and deftly balanced wine; it delivers copious amounts of delectable sweet flavours but is kept far from being cloying through racy and moderating acidity. The flavours are robust and delicious—look for ripe pear, honeyed apple and dollops of zesty citrus for balance. It's beautifully textured with a lengthy fruit-filled finish. A lovely aperitif on its own, it also pairs well with simple fruit flan. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Henry of Pelham 'Off-Dry Reserve' Riesling
VQA Short Hills Bench $15.95 (557165)
An opulent offering, this delivers floral and mineral nuances on the nose then a very generous stream of white peach and ripe citrus flavours. It's medium bodied and generously textured with a lengthy finish that offers that sweet and tang, yin and yang sensation, that pairs so well with spicy Asian cuisine like Pad Thai or butter chicken. You may want to cellar some for drinking 2012 to 2014 when it's developed those much-desired honeyed and petrol characteristics. Pick up a few, they're good value. (VH)

California: Red

****1/2 drink or cellar
Beaulieu Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
Napa Valley $25.95 (987420)
This is richly textured, chockfull of ripe fruit flavours and a terrific value. There's a rush of heady aromas with spice box, cherry and earthy notes predominant. The flavours are all about spiced black plum, Bing cherry and lovely hints of mint and toasty oak. It's medium bodied with perceptible tannin and a lovely fruit-forward finish. You can drink this now, with a three-hour aeration / decant, or hold and drink 2010 to 2015. Either way, pair it with a prime cut of grilled beefsteak. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Clos du Val Merlot 2005
Napa Valley $28.95 (065730)
This is soft and very approachable given its supple tannin structure and warm fruit flavours. Look for expressive and full-fruit flavours of spiced black Damson plum, black raspberry and black juicy cherry. It's medium in body and texture while it finishes lengthy with hints of cassis and cedar. Drink now to 2014 alongside cassoulet or osso bucco. (VH)

***1/2 cellar
Grgich Hills Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
Napa Valley $81.95 (071407)
There are some very good elements here that may well need time in the cellar to develop and knit together; it's astringent at the moment. The aromas are quite involved and include anise, dried berry fruit, spice and a nuance of mint. There's lots of zest of tang delivered through cranberry and pie cherry flavours that carry through the medium-length finish. Cellar and drink 2012 to 2018 paired with rare to medium-rare grilled strip loin. (VH)

**** cellar
Irony Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
Napa Valley, California $21.95
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) No irony here - seriously good Napa Cab from a stellar vintage and a premium producer. Muscular and chewy, let this soften and knit together in your cellar, it'll provide optimum drinking 2012 to 2017. Minty and chocolate-covered cherry aromas segue this brawny, fully textured and full-bodied Cab. There's additional mint flavour on the palate along with a cornucopia of dark ripe berry fruit. The lingering finish is entwined with drying tannin and sweet ripe cassis flavour. Not for the faint of heart. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Kenwood 'Jack London Vineyard' Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
Sonoma Valley $36.95 (944843)
Full disclosure—it's the first Sonoma winery I ever visited and I loved the 'Jack London' back then. This vintage is powerful and rich, showcasing both the vineyard and the outstanding vintage. Aromas of dark berry, smoked bacon and exotic spice roll off the glass. The fruit-forward and expressive flavours include black briary berry, Bing cherry and cassis. It's full bodied and nicely textured. The supple tannin structure and moderating acidity add balance and interest, providing a dry lingering finish that promises another decade of optimum drinking. (VH)

Washington State: Red

**** drink or cellar
14 Hands Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
Washington $15.95 (070573)
This is very approachable with its soft tannin structure and ripe fruit flavours. Toast and dark berry aromas drift off this medium-bodied and nicely textured Cab. Flavours of dark, sweet and juicy cherry and kirsch liqueur wash over the palate and carry through the nicely balanced and medium-length finish. The price-quality ratio is in your favour; pick up a few for the fall BBQ season. (VH)

Chile: White

****1/2 drink or cellar
Baron Philippe de Rothschild Reserva Chardonnay 2007
Casablanca Valley $13.95 (081257)
One of the best-value wines in this entire release, consider a multiple purchase for delicious consumption over the next 12 months. The fruit was hand picked and the oak's imperceptible. The nose offers very ripe apple and sweet pear aromas. It's full bodied fully textured and offers warm and sweet flavours (14% alcohol) that include yellow peach, apple compote and ripe nectarine. If you're on the hunt for a Thanksgiving turkey wine that'll stand up to savoury stuffing and rich gravy flavours—and won't break the bank—this is it. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Casa Lapostolle Cuvée Alexandre Chardonnay 2007
Casablanca Valley $27.95 (947937)
There's a touch of elegance and class here. The delicate aromas are subtle with apple, spice and peach up front. The layers of flavours are quite something else; they wash over the palate in waves with green apple, ripe nectarine and juicy yellow peach up front. The oak has been deftly integrated, it's medium bodied, nicely textured and delivers a lingering finish of ripe citrus and melon. This is a lovely wine to match with a Thanksgiving bird with all the fixings. (VH)

Chile: Red

**** drink or cellar
Casa Lapostolle Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
Rapel Valley $15.95 (398800)
Aromas of exotic spice and dried berry fruit open this medium-bodied nicely textured Cab. There's wonderful balance on the palate with a nice array of dark berry and black plum flavours that are juxtaposed with a generous dollop of tang that's delivered through racy and zesty red pie cherry flavour. The tannin is firm while the medium-length finish adds a lovely nuance of mocha. There's pretty good value here. (VH)

***** drink or cellar
Casa Lapostolle Cuvée Alexandre Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
Colchagua Valley $34.95 (947929)
This is an outstanding offering; it's rich in flavour, silky textured and good value. Aromas of briary berry and earthy tones introduce this fully flavoured—cassis, black raspberry and black licorice—medium-bodied gem. The dry lengthy finish layers on espresso roast and spice box. There's considerable grip from the tannin providing an optimum drinking window 2010 to 2016. You could drink it now after a three-hour aeration / decant. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Pérez Cruz Reserva Cot 2006
Maipo Valley $24.95 (670547)
A Cot by any other name would taste as good—a.k.a Malbec. This is dark and brooding in the glass emitting aromas of dark berry fruit and toasty oak. It's expressive in the mouth with a rush of fruit flavours and liberal ladles of tang—black briary berry, ripe mulberry and zesty pie cherry. The finish replays these with a dash of spice. It's medium bodied, medium textured and very nicely balanced. Pair this with grilled steak. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Pérez Cruz Reserva Syrah 2006
Maipo Valley $24.95 (589812)
A rich and well-structured red, this offers a fairly subtle nose of dried berry, spice box and black pepper. The flavours are all about very dark and juicy fruit—raspberry, mulberry and cherry juxtaposed with moderating tang and delivered on a silky smooth texture. It finishes extremely well balanced with enough tannin for oomph and for pairing with strip loin, grilled rare to medium rare, from now to 2014. (VH)

Australia: White

****1/2 drink or cellar
Penfolds Bin 51 Riesling 2007
Eden Valley, South Australia $23.95 (558650)
Lifted aromas of floral notes, mineral, slate and citrus segue expressive and tantalizing flavours of racy and heady white grapefruit and lemon-lime along with softer white peach and apple. Eden Valley is a high-altitude, cool-climate (for Australia) region from where, arguably, the best Aussie Rieslings hail. It's medium bodied, well textured and provides a crisp clean finish. Drink now or cellar six to eight years to experience those late-developing petrol and honeyed fruit characteristics. This is a keeper. (VH)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Wolf Blass 'Gold Label' Chardonnay 2006
Adelaide Hills, South Australia $20.95 (606186)
Toast, oak and spice on the nose, this medium-bodied nicely textured Chard offers fair value. There's a cornucopia of flavours with citrus, green apple, peach and a salad bowl of tropical fruit. Medium in texture and finish, it's also well balanced. Pair with chicken Kiev. (VH)

Australia: Red

***1/2 drink or cellar
Dark Side of the Moon Shiraz 2005
Clare Valley, South Australia $31.95 (072652)
There are loads of oak and smoke aromas on the nose that's complemented by nuances of dried berry fruit and aromatic bitters. The subtle fruit flavours include pie cherry, cranberry and spice while the finish adds lashings of tang and zest. This will pair well with pasta in a tomato-based sauce like spaghetti Bolognese. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Leasingham 'Bin 56' Cabernet/Malbec 2005
Clare Valley, South Australia $29.95 (062547)
Another of Australia's cooler-climate regions, the Clare, with warm days and cool nights, produces very lovely reds, this being one. Look for quiet aromas of baking brioche, dark field berry and spice. The nicely textured mouth feel delivers flavours of cassis, mulberry and dark Bing cherry delivered on a medium- to full-bodied frame. There's good grip from supple tannin while the finish is lengthy, dry and well balanced. Pair this with a thick slab of prime rib. (VH)

**** cellar
Nugan Estate 'McLaren Parish Vineyard' Shiraz 2006
McLaren Vale, South Australia $26.95 (072603)
Astringent at present, this cellar dweller will come into its own 2012 to 2018. The lifted aromas are centred on smoky notes and dark berry fruit. The flavours, still bound in a firm tannin structure, are taut and focused—sweet bramble berry, pie cherry and mixed spice. It's full bodied, nicely textured and layers on a generous coating of dark chocolate on the finish. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Oddfellows Svengali Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
Langhorne Creek, South Australia $21.95 (072611)
This is rich, round n' ready and a ripper of a red. Toasty and dark berry fruit on the nose, it shifts into over-drive on the palate with waves of luscious flavours—mulberry, ripe dark and juicy briary berry and cassis. It's medium bodied, fully textured and sports a lingering, well-balanced, lip-smacking finish that layers on nuances of spice and black pepper. The price-quality balance is tipped well in your favour; pick up a few. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Thorn-Clark 'Shotfire Quartage' 2005
Barossa, South Australia $23.95 (024091)
This has five of the six red 'Bordeaux blend' grapes in this estate-grown gem—there's no Carmènere. However, there is a gorgeous array of aromas and warm sweet (14.5% alcohol) fruit flavours with ripe Bing cherry, black currant and hints of kirsch liqueur up front. These are ably supported by hints of dark chocolate and spice. The lingering and well-balanced finish reflects and replays those delicious flavours while the ripe and supple tannin structure provides medium-term ageing potential. (VH)

Australia: Rosé

**** drink now
Angove's 'Nine Vines' Grenache Shiraz Rosé
South Australia $11.95 (695049)
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) Your attention will first be drawn to the vibrant pink liquid in your glass, then the spice-infused aromas of cranberry and blueberry. It's medium bodied with a smooth texture while the sweet and tang flavours that glide along are in the red currant and Montmorency cherry zones. The crisp finish is mouth-watering, suggesting a pairing with pan-seared Atlantic salmon with a generous squish of lemon. (VH)

New Zealand: Red

**** drink now
Omaka Springs Estates 'Falveys' Pinot Noir 2006
Marlborough, South Island $26.25
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) This single vineyard gem sports a perfumed and tantalizing nose of savoury spice and black currant aromas. Entirely consistent in the flavour profile, expect black currant and savoury spice box along with moderating zest and a leisurely lingering finish of warm fruit flavours (13.5% alcohol) plus hints of cassis and licorice. This is well balanced, medium in texture and body and worth a three or four bottle investment to enjoy on its own or pair with smoked duck breasts over greens drizzled with mango chutney. (VH)

*** drink or cellar
Ra Nui Pinot Noir 2006
Wairau Valley, Marlborough South Island $24.95 (007500)
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) Delivering bold new world flavour elegantly wrapped in old world charm; expect a luscious mouthful of ripe fruit flavours—Bing cherry and black bramble berry—plus nuances of clove and black pepper. This is medium bodied, smooth as silk and lip-smacking good. The lengthy finish is a thing of beauty—good dark fruit along with a generous dollop of racy acidity providing perfect balance. Pair this with cedar-planked grilled salmon. (VH)

South Africa: Red

***1/2 drink or cellar
Hidden Valley Pinotage 2006
WO Stellenbosch $17.95 (655639)
There are copious amounts of distinctive black tar and smoky aromas and flavours in this medium-bodied and nicely textured red. Those that love them, love them. Those that don't... The fruit flavours are all about sweet, dark berry fruit, currant, raspberry and blackberry. It finishes medium in length with good tang and zest. Give it a go with bobotie, a South African curried minced meat dish. (VH)

France: White

***1/2 drink now
Domaine Saint-Rémy Pinot Auxerrois 'Val St-Gregoire' 2006
AOC Alsace $16.95 (066514)
A nice quaffing wine in a lighter style, look for aromas of spiced apple and ripe pear. The predominant flavours include green apple, spice and yellow plum. It does have a nice silky texture and the finish is dry and crisp with citrus undertones. Lovely sipped on its own it also pairs well with lighter appetizers—seafood, chicken or veal. (VH)

**** drink now
Domaine Seguin Pouilly Fumé 2007
AOC Pouilly Fumé $25.95 (081414)
The nose is quite expressive with lifted aromas that are grassy and herbaceous followed by a gusher of citrussy tang on the palate. There are also well-focused flavours of green apple, white peach and spice delivered within a medium-weight and nicely textured frame. The lengthy finish is crisp, clean and refreshing. This is paired perfectly with chicken or turkey à la king. (VH)

**** drink now
Marechal Vouvray 2006
AOC Vouvray $16.95 (082222)
This is a lovely off-dry Chenin Blanc at a very attractive price. It delivers a delectable mouthful of flavour—honeyed pear and sweet tropical fruit underpinned by moderating citrus zest and tang. It's medium bodied and fully textured, almost creamy, and finishes lengthy and lip-smacking good. If you're thinking of ham for Thanksgiving, or any other time, this is a wonderful pairing. (VH)

France: Red

***1/2 drink or cellar
Château Bourdicotte 2004
AOC Bourdeaux Supérieur $16.95 (087296)
This lighter-styled red delivers a racy and zesty gusher of red pie cherry and pomegranate flavours. It's light to medium bodied and delivers a well-balanced, albeit brief, finish that layers on some ripe fruit flavours. Pair it with Swiss steak. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Christian Moueix Pomerol 2006
AOC Pomerol $29.95 (903013)
This offers a smooth and fruity wine for anyone wishing to experience a good 'entry-level' Bordeaux at a reasonable price. Expect black plum and mixed spice on the nose while the fruit flavours are redolent of sweet and juicy black raspberry, Bing cherry and mulberry. There are also nuances of black licorice and espresso roast lurking here. The balanced finish is fruit forward and friendly. Pair with beef daube. (VH)

**** drink now
Domaine de la Madone 'Le Perréon' 2006
AOC Beaujolais Villages $14.95 (981175)
Aromas of lilac, earthiness and dark cherry roll off this straightforward Gamay. Medium bodied and textured, there are rich fruit flavours of black currant and cherry on the palate while the finish is balanced and medium in length. It earned its final half star on its provenance—a step up from ordinary Beaujolais—and good value. It would be a nice accompaniment to your Thanksgiving bird. (VH)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Château de L'Engarran 'Grés de Montpellier' 2005
AOC Coteaux du Languedoc $17.95 (076299)
There's a boatload of zest and tang in this well-structured offering. Aromas of toasty spicy notes segue racy flavours of red currant and sour cherry. There's ample body and texture here that's partially provided by its firm tannin structure. The zesty finish lingers. This pairs perfectly with pasta in a tomato-based sauce like lasagna or pasta putenesca. (VH)

France: Rosé

**** drink now
Domaine Sorin 'Terra Amata' Rosé 2007
AOC Côtes de Provence $16.95 (071191)
This provides ample body and structure to be paired with fully flavoured mains like grilled salmon or roast chicken at any time of year. Look for aromas of slate and red berry fruit then a lovely expression of dry and zesty cherry, cranberry and strawberry flavours. It's medium in body and texture and offers a well-balanced and dry crisp finish. Drink chilled, as you would a white wine, over the next few months. (VH)

Italy: White

**** drink now
Falchini 'Vigna a Solatio' Vernaccia di San Gimignano 2007
DOCG Vernaccia di San Gimignano $15.95 (994012)
These are often made more like a red wine than a white—fermented on the skins and often in barrel. Fennel and spiced fruit aromas waft from the glass while the flavours in this medium-bodied and nicely textured white are crisp and racy citrus with hints of anise and mixed spice. This offers a crisp, clean finish and very good value. Pair this with mussels steamed in a white wine sauce, using this white wine. (VH)

Italy: Red

**** drink now
Apollonio Copertino Rosso 2001
DOC Puglia $17.95 (023226)
Seven years on and still going strong, this offers tantalizing aromas of lilac and dried berry fruit with touches of earthiness. The stream of soft warm (14% alcohol) flavours offers dark rich cherry and spiced black plum delivered on a silky-smooth texture. This is deftly balanced, offering a lingering fruity finish and is drinking extremely well now. Pair with lamb daube, osso bucco or cassoulet. This offers very good value. (VH)

*** drink now
Rocca Delle Macìe Campomaccione 2006
DOC Morellino di Scansano $18.95 (969428)
Morellino a.k.a. Sangiovese is the grape while Scansano is a village on the coast of southern Tuscany. Light to medium bodied, this offers up aromas of cherry and earthy notes while the zesty and heady flavours are all about red pie cherry, cranberry and strawberry. There is also perceptible tannin making a three-hour aeration / decant advisable. It finishes spicy and zesty suggesting a pairing with pasta in an arrabiata sauce. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Quintarelli Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2000
DOC Valpolicella Classico Superiore $91.95 (986117)
Known as "the Master of the Veneto," patriarch Giuseppe Quintarelli and family produce some of the most treasured, and most expensive, wine in Italy. This is rich and well structured, look for aromas of dried spicy berry fruit. They show the way for copious amounts of mulberry and red cherry fruit flavours, all nicely moderated by a stream of zest and tang. Well balanced and nicely textured, this will appeal to collectors. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
S. Giorgio Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico 2003
DOC Valpolicella Classico $55.95 (082230)
Vinified from dried—usually four or five months on straw mats—traditional grapes of this region, Amarone is a wine that red wine lovers simply must experience. This is aromatic—spice box, aromatic bitters and raisins. Look for a richly textured gusher of powerful flavours with cassis, rich coffee and dark berry fruit to the fore. It's medium to full bodied and sports a nicely sculpted lengthy finish. (VH)

Portugal: Red

****1/2 cellar
Falcoaria Reserva 2005
DOC Ribatejo $23.95 (080390)
Very expressive on the nose and palate, this full-bodied and fully flavoured red blend provides all of the following aromas and flavours—fig, raisin, black plum, cassis and dark juicy sweet cherry. They're still wound up in a firm tannin structure, but given time they'll soften. The well-balanced finish lingers nicely. This is a gorgeous wine that's well worth a multiple purchase to enjoy 2010 to 2016. (VH)

Spain: White

****1/2 drink now
Raimat Viña 27 Chardonnay 2007
DO Costers del Segre $15.95 (954982)
Vinified in a contemporary manner, this is crisp, clean and refreshing, and saw not a splinter of oak. It's medium bodied and nicely textured. The nose and palate are treated to an expressive explosion of rich aromas and flavours with green apple, ripe citrus, sweet yellow peach and spice up front. This huge mouthful of delightful flavours is followed by a zippy, clean and refreshing finish. This provides very good value with the price-quality ratio skewed well in your favour. (VH)

Spain: Red

**** cellar
Condada de Haza Crianza 2005
DO Ribera del Douro $27.95 (963348)
From a brand that's really got its act back together recently, this is another strong showing. Toasty, oaky and berry fruit on the nose, this delivers a steady stream of zesty red fruit flavours with pie cherry, cranberry and red raspberry predominant. It's medium in texture and body with grippy tannin still apparent. Cellar for now and drink 2011 to 2015 alongside seafood and sausage paella. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Bodega de Sarría 'Señorio de Sarria,Viñedo Sotés' 2004
DO Navarra $18.95 (080366)
This classy complex red blend—Tempranillo, Grenache, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Graciano and Mazuelo—received three to six months ageing in new French oak. Aromas of dark berry fruit, mint and toasty oak rip off the nose while the succulent flavours express themselves generously on the palate—cassis, spice and black briary berry. It's well balanced with moderating tang and the medium-length finish reveals a ripe and supple tannin structure. Pick up a few and drink now to 2012 with a rare- to medium-rare grilled filet mignon. (VH)

Upstream in winecurrent

Vintages Release: November 8, 2007

**** drink now
Château Ducla 2005
Bordeaux Supérieur $15.95 (162461)
The involved and expressive aromas include exotic herbs and spice, dark berry fruit, tar and black licorice This Cabernet / Merlot blend delivers sweet warm fruit flavours—black currant, Bing Cherry and black Damson plum—that are ably supported by a ripe and supple tannin structure. Medium in body and generously textured, it's ready to drink now and sports a lingering well-balanced finish. There's good value here. (VH)

Vintages Release: November / December, 2008

****1/2 drink or cellar
Henry of Pelham Icewine Cabernet Franc 2007
VQA Short Hills Bench $39.95 (672402)
There are luscious aromas and flavours galore in this extremely well-balanced, estate-grown treasure. Predominantly strawberry, cranberry and raspberry, you'll also find lovely nuances of mixed spice and cherry clafoutie. The crisp acidity keeps this sweet dessert wine from becoming cloying, allowing the second glass to be as enjoyable as the first. The luscious nectar lingers on the finish for almost a minute. Serve well chilled at the end of the meal or as the winery suggests, pour a splash in a glass then fill with their sparkling wine for a 'Kir Catharine'. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Henry of Pelham 'Reserve' Cabernet / Merlot 2005
VQA Niagara Peninsula $29.95 (395855)
Spice box, dried dark berry and black currant aromas open this medium-weight nicely textured blend—50% Merlot with the balance Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon. There's a firm structure of tannin along with a lovely expression of concentrated ripe fruit flavours in the dark sweet cherry and black raspberry zones. Grape yields were limited to two to three tones per acre. Best cellared and opened 2011 to 2017, it's so good you may not want to wait—aerate / decant for three hours then pour alongside a strip loin, barbecued rare to medium rare. This earned the final half star in recognition of its exceptional value. (VH)

Vintages Release: December, 2008

****1/2 drink or cellar
Tawse Winery 'Vintners Reserve' Cabernet Franc 2006
VQA Niagara Peninsula $38.95 (55079)
This stunning red is rich and elegant, offering a cornucopia of aromas and flavours—mixed spice, roasting coffee, kirsch liqueur and dark juicy bramble berry fruit. It's absolutely full bodied, generously textured and delivers a glorious stream of moderating tang on the lingering finish. That backbone plus the ripe supple tannin make this a versatile and friendly food wine; pair it with grilled lamb tenderloin or deviled flank steak. (VH)

Classics Catalogue Release: Winter 2009

***** drink or cellar
Henry of Pelham 'Speck Family Reserve' Riesling 2007
VQA Short Hills Bench $30.00
Magical '07 growing conditions and premium soil composition in this small sub-appellation coalesced allowing them to vinify this ultra-premium gem—only the third vintage produced. Dry and intense, it delivers aromas of mineral and slate with floral nuances. Well-focused and crisp flavours of lemon-lime and white peach abound. They're delivered on a very nicely textured bed of citrussy zest and tang. The finish lingers, clean and refreshing suggesting a pairing with pasta in a creamy white sauce with prawns or scallops. (VH)

New in Vintages

Australia

****1/2 drink or cellar
d'Arenberg d'Arry's Original 2004
Mclaren Vale $19.95 (942904)
This 'Vintages Essentials' product—always available in selected stores, is a 50 / 50 Shiraz / Grenache blend from one of the wine-world's top producers. Dark and brooding in the glass, the aromas and flavours are all about winemaker Chester Osborne's trademark—fully flavoured, keenly selected and meticulously blended fruit. Look for a mélange of aromas and flavours that include briary berry, cassis, roasting coffee beans, tar and black licorice. It's medium bodied, satiny smooth in texture and well balanced. It delivers a mouth-watering dollop of tang on the lingering finish. (VH)

California

****1/2 drink or cellar
J. Lohr 'Seven Oaks' Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
Paso Robles $19.80 (656561)
A new 'Vintages Essentials' product (and winecurrent perennial favourite); this joins the top-tier wines in that category and will be available continuously in selected stores. It's downright gorgeous, from the expressive aromas of spice box, toast and minty nuances to the explosion of ripe, dark, juicy and sweet berry flavours—blackberry, black raspberry and Bing cherry. It's medium to full bodied, fully textured and finishes lengthy—layering on flavours of tar and licorice. This is perfect to gift or to serve alongside prime cuts of beef. (VH)

Argentina

**** drink now
Bodega Catena Zapata Malbec 2006
Mendoza $19.95 (478727)
This winery's high-altitude vineyards consistently deliver ripe fruit, both in sugar content and physiological ripeness; it allows them to make lovely wine like this, consistently. Aromas and flavours of ripe, sweet, dark berry fruit abound—black currant, mulberry and nuances of blackberry jam. It delivers enough tang for balance and dusty tannin for structure, finishing fruit forward and delicious. This 'Vintages Essentials' product is always available in selected LCBO retail locations. (VH)

New in LCBO

Australia

***1/2 drink now
Hardy's 'Nottage Hill' Chardonnay 2007
South Eastern Australia $4.95 (86397) 250 mL (plastic bottle and glass)
The wine's familiar, the delivery's space age—it's a 'shuttle'. The twist-off closure also serves as the glass; it's brilliant for poolside, camping and the cottage. Medium-gold coloured in the glass with a slight green hue, this opens with delightful tropical fruit aromas—ripe pineapple and honeydew melon. It's light bodied, but showers the palate with delicate flavours of white peach and ripe citrus. There's good texture, imperceptible oak and a clean refreshing finish. (VH)

**** drink now
Hardy's 'Nottage Hill' Shiraz 2006
South Australia $5.45 (86405) 250 mL (plastic bottle and glass)
The twist-off closure also serves as the glass; it's brilliant for poolside, camping and the cottage. From a respected, iconic Aussie producer, this delivers the goods, and then some. A perfumed nose of spiced black berry and ripe sweet cherry is precursor to flavours of rich Bing cherry and black Damson plum that are underpinned by supple tannin and seamlessly integrated oak. It's medium bodied with a medium-length finish that shows deft balance. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Nugan Estate Cookathama Chardonnay 2006
Darling Point, Riverina, New South Wales $13.95 (619403)
Pleasant and pleasing on the nose, look for aromas of apricot and apple with a sweet stream of fruit flavours on the palate that include ripe yellow peach, nectarine, and moderating citrus tang. It's light to medium bodied and finishes well balanced and refreshing. Pair this with lighter-styled appetizers of seafood or chicken. (VH)

California

**** drink now
Robert Mondavi 'Private Selection' Chardonnay
Central Coast $17.95 (379180)
Involved aromas of vanilla, toast and floral notes roll off the glass of this medium-bodied nicely textured Chard. There's lovely fruit on the palate with oodles of apple, pear and ripe yellow peach with a moderating snap of lemon-lime on the crisp clean finish. It's very well balanced and offers good value. Pair with whole wheat fettuccine in a creamy garlic sauce. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Robert Mondavi 'Private Selection' Merlot
Central Coast $18.95 (524769)
This opens with a subtle nose of red berry fruit and toasty oak aromas. It washes over the palate, smooth, silky and medium bodied. There's expressive dark, sweet and rich berry fruit that's balanced on the mid palate and the medium-length finish with zesty pie cherry and cranberry flavours. There's dry and dusty tannin present and they add interest and structure. This has the oomph and charm to pair nicely with strip loin, grilled rare to medium rare. (VH)

Chile

****1/2 drink now
Cono Sur Viognier 2008
Chile $9.95 (64287)
Add this to your list for the best-value wines in the LCBO. It's herbaceous on the nose with herbs, spice and passion fruit up front. The palate is treated to a gusher of flavours including warm sweet (13.7% alcohol) pineapple and melon that's moderated with a stream of bracing mouth-watering acidity. It delivers a superb sweet and tart finish that helps make it a versatile food partner. Pair with pan-seared fish or scallops, lemon veal or roast pork. This earned its final half star on its exceptional value. (VH)

Hungary

**** drink now
Hungaria Grand Cuvée Brut Non-Vintage
Hungary $11.10 (619288)
This is my first tasting of this, even though it's been an LCBO mainstay for years, and I'm taken with the value it offers; it earned its final half-star because of it. Floral and slightly leesy aromas segue a delightful burst of bubbles and flavours on the palate—citrus, peach, apple and pear, while the texture is very smooth. It's medium bodied and slightly 'off-dry' with enough moderating acidity for good balance. It's fermented in bottle, although not the bottle you're drinking it from, a.k.a. the 'transfer method', and the bubbles were consistent and lengthy—quite impressive. (VH)

New Zealand

**** drink now
Goose Bay Sauvignon Blanc 2007
New Zealand $18.65 (28134)
This is fleshy and fruity with immense crowd-pleasing appeal. It's less herbaceous and pungent than most Kiwi SBs, but it delivers a delicious mouthful of aromas and flavours with sweet pit fruit—peach and nectarine—and gooseberry up front. There's also enough moderating acidity delivered in the form of white grapefruit and lime flavours to provide balance. It's medium bodied, nicely textured and delivers a medium-length finish. (VH)

Ontario

**** drink now
Château des Charmes Aligoté 2007
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $13.45 (284950)
Aligoté is a grape hailing from Burgundy and it's what the locals drink on a daily basis—this lovely effort showcases the fine '07 vintage in Niagara. Citrus, mineral and lifted key lime aromas segue the crisp and refreshing flavours of ripe lemon, racy lime and grapefruit. It has a lovely texture and a lingering finish that layers on hints of Granny Smith apple and pear. This is a wine made for briny, freshly shucked oysters; it's also attractive when added to a splash of cassis, producing that delightful aperitif, 'Kir'. (VH)

*** drink now
Colio 'Girls' Night Out' Chardonnay 2007
VQA Lake Erie North Shore $12.95 (89821)
Lifted aromas of apple and yellow plum open this light- to medium-bodied and medium-textured white. The flavours are squarely in the spice and citrus zones with lovely hints of ripe white peach layered on. A sensible alcohol level (12.7%), good balance and a crisp finish set this up as the ideal aperitif or one to pair with mussels or prawns. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Colio 'Girls' Night Out' Merlot / Chardonnay Rosé 2007
VQA Lake Erie North Shore $12.95 (89862)
Spice box and cherry cordial aromas form the expressive nose while the sweet and tart flavours provide a very pleasant experience. It starts out with ripe and sweet berry fruit then layers on a moderating hit of crisp and racy zest delivered via red currant and pie cherry flavours. It's medium bodied and nicely textured with enough stuffing to stand up to mid-weight cuisine. That sweet and tart, yin and yang sensation also provides the perfect partner with spicy Asian dishes like Thai chicken curry. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Colio 'Girls' Night Out' Merlot 2006
VQA Lake Erie North Shore $12.95 (89847)
Earthy tones and dark berry fruit aromas open this medium-bodied, nicely textured red. There's lots going on in the flavour department with red currant, cherry compote and black raspberry flavours that are nicely balanced with a generous dollop of heady pie cherry tang on the dry finish. This pairs well with grilled red meats or roasts, like chicken or leg of lamb. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Peninsula Ridge 'Ratafia' 2005
VQA Ontario $30.90 500 mL
And now for something completely different—it's a blend of unfermented Chardonnay grape juice and plum eau-de-vie a.k.a. plum brandy—made from Niagara plums, fermented then distilled. It's fortified (18% alcohol) like Port, smells (rancio) like Madeira and tastes like a rainbow of delicious sweet flavours. Expect an unctuous attack of fruit flavours—ripe apricot, sweet nectarine, pineapple and spice that glide on a silky smooth texture, consistent through the lengthy lip-smacking finish. Serve well chilled—not with, but as, dessert. (VH)

New in Ontario Wineries

Winecurrent visited a large number of premium Niagara wineries, tasting though barrel samples, '07 whites and '06 reds in the bottle. Be on the cutting edge with winery profiles and timely reviews in this second installment. Read more... 

****1/2 drink or cellar
Château des Charmes 'St. David's Bench Vineyard' Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
VQA St. David's Bench $40.00
Minty, red cherry and mulberry aromas drift off the glass of this well-structured gem. Look for expressive and concentrated flavours of ripe black cherries dipped in dark chocolate along with kirsch liqueur and spice box delivered alongside perceptible tannin and a moderating spine of mouth-watering tang. The finish is particularly lengthy and deftly balanced. Drink now to 2018 alongside a prime cut of beef, grilled rare to medium rare. Available at winery retail stores or order directly from Château des Charmes. (VH)

***** drink or cellar
Château des Charmes 'Equulleus, Paul Bosc Estate Vineyard' 2005
VQA St. David's Bench $40.00
This magnificent 'Bordeaux blend'—50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Cabernet Franc, 25% Merlot—provides a memorable imbibing experience - elegant and powerful. Earthy, oaky and smoky on the nose it delivers a controlled yet heady gusher of flavours including cassis, vanilla, black currant and black Damson plum. It's full bodied, nicely textured and delivers a well-balanced, spicy and lingering finish. There's moderating acidity for balance and still perceptible tannin for structure and ageing potential. Drink now, after a three-hour aeration/decant, until 2014. Available at winery retail stores or order directly from Château des Charmes.

****1/2 drink now
Lailey Vineyard 'Counterpoint' 2007
VQA Niagara River $25.00
counterpoint - two or more complimentary or contrasting melodic parts to be heard simultaneously. Recently launched, this hand-picked and deftly balanced blend—58% Gewürztraminer, 14% Sauvignon Blanc, 14% Riesling, 14% Chardonnay—is a hit. The lifted nose offers exotic aromas of musk melon, tropical fruit and citrus notes. The flavours are predominantly ripe lemon-lime, but there's also an array of tree fruit including yellow peach, pear and crisp apple. It finishes racy and lip-smacking good. Order by the case for free delivery to home or office via Lailey Vineyard. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Peninsula Ridge 'McNally Vineyards' Sauvignon Blanc 2007
VQA Beamsville Bench $18.95
The particular and unusual soils in the vineyards where the grapes were sourced are sandy clay, loam and shale. Perfumed and exotic spice, floral notes and a ripe fruit salad bowl of aromas segue a mouth-watering gusher of ripe citrus flavours and racy tang. Its plush texture and medium-bodied frame deliver a steady stream through the lip-smacking finish of nerve and verve expressed as white grapefruit and lemon. For daily home or office delivery, order from Andrea Benner 905.563.0900 ext. 34 or email This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Peninsula Ridge Riesling 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula $16.95
This opens with a highly perfumed nose of slate, mineral and steely notes. It turns opulent and elegant on the palate with its rush of pungent crisp citrus tang ably supported by hints of white peach and star fruit. It's medium bodied and generously textured. The ripe lemon and white grapefruit flavours carry through to the lingering finish. Riesling lovers will admire this sipped on its own, everyone will love it served alongside spicy seafood or lemon veal. This has the stuffing to further develop its flavours and texture; drink now to 2012. For daily home or office delivery, order from Andrea Benner 905.563.0900 ext. 34 or email This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. (VH)

***** drink or cellar
Tawse Winery 'Robyn's Block' Chardonnay 2006
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $48.00
Lifted aromas of floral, mineral and vanilla notes segue the rich and incredibly expressive flavours of ripe citrus, white peach, ripe sweet peach and green apple that wash over the palate in a deftly balanced fully textured stream. It's medium to full bodied and delivers a lingering finish that layers on hints of spice and white grapefruit. It's a mouth-watering experience that deserves fine cuisine and a special occasion, turkey with sage dressing and all the fixings would be appropriate. Order by the case for daily home delivery via Tawse Winery. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Tawse Winery 'David's Block' Merlot 2006
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $45.00
This estate-owned block is named after David, one of the three Tawse children. Unfined and unfiltered this offers up expressive aromas of black Damson plum and spice box. Full bodied and beautifully textured, the flavours are still wound up in a firm tannin structure—there's cassis, toasty oak and chocolate-covered cherry galore. There are also oodles of spice and fruit flavours on the well-balanced finish. Cellar and drink 2010 to 2016 or aerate /decant for three hours and drink alongside a rare to medium rare grilled steak. Order by the case for daily home delivery via Tawse Winery. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Tawse Winery 'Vintners Reserve' Cabernet Franc 2006
VQA Niagara Peninsula $80.00 1500 mL (magnum)
This stunning red is rich and elegant, offering a cornucopia of aromas and flavours—mixed spice, roasting coffee, kirsch liqueur and dark juicy bramble berry fruit. It's absolutely full bodied, generously textured and delivers a glorious stream of moderating tang on the lingering finish. That backbone plus the ripe supple tannin make this a versatile and friendly food wine; pair it with grilled lamb tenderloin or deviled flank steak. Order by the case of six for daily home delivery via Tawse Winery. (VH)

Cheers!

Vic.

Rating System

We use the following symbols when rating wines:

5 starsWines achieving nirvana
4 stars Wines of excellence
3 stars Wines well worth trying
2  stars Wines below average, but drinkable
1 star Wines better avoided, unless desperate
half star Represents a half star
2 glassesWe both agree —a brilliant wine!
drink nowDrink now and over the next 2 years
drink or cellarDrink now and over the next 5 years
cellarPlace in cellar