winecurrent.com
August 16th, 2008 Vintages Release

Winecurrent.com delivers a comprehensive and complete review of the Vintages Release wines tasted. No short cuts, no skimping, just honest and complete reviews of the wines that were made available for tasting at the LCBO, earning 3 stars and above, to help you make your selections.

This Vintages release and winecurrent newsletter begins with a feature on Chile—whites, reds and powerful reds—followed by a mini-feature on Austria. The familiar country/region format follows in the 'Main Release' with wines reviewed in the order they appear in the Vintages Release brochure.

Other highlights in this winecurrent newsletter include:
  • Every wine reviewed in the 'Chile: Powerful Reds' feature is a worthy purchase.
  • There are a number of up-scale California reds from which to choose.
  • Argentina continues to deliver good-value reds.
  • Italy and Spain both shine in quality and value with Italy scoring the only 5 star in the entire release, and it's under $30.00.
  • Martin Malivoire delivered an exclusive 'winecurrent tasting' of his wines and you'll find them in various sections following the main release.
  • And, finally, there are exciting wines scattered throughout each of the sections following the Main Release, including Consignment Wines.
An explanation of the scoring system and icons is included at the end of this newsletter.

Chile: White

**** drink now
Cono Sur Chardonnay 2007
Colchagua Valley $12.95 (61911)
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) Good value, this earned its final half star because of it. Herbal, pineapple and mineral aromas spin off this racy, organically-farmed, unoaked number. Crisp and refreshing, there's an abundance of zesty tang from spice-infused waves of racy and lip-smacking lemon-lime zest along with a hint of melon. The finish lingers and begs for a pairing of prawn and mango kebabs grilled then drizzled with freshly squeezed lemon. (VH)

**** drink now
Casa Lapostolle Chardonnay 2007
Casablanca Valley $14.95 (396986)
This is well balanced and delicious; look for mineral, stone fruit and vanilla aromas on the nose of this medium-bodied and nicely textured beauty. There's plenty to enjoy with rich fruit flavours of crisp citrus and spice-infused apple and pear. Pair this with pan-seared freshwater fish, trout or bass, under a drizzle of lemon juice. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Gracia de Chile 'Reserva Superior' Chardonnay 2006
Bio Bio Valley $14.95 (061879)
The cooler Bio Bio region is a new venture for Corpora—they own a number of brands—and this is the first vintage from their new facility there. (Unfortunately, at this tasting the bottle of their 'Veranda' brand red blend, also in this release, was corked.) Impressive aromas and flavours of pineapple, melon and spice box are ably supported by a delightful spine of citrus zest. This is medium bodied and fully textured with a well-balanced and lingering finish. It's a perfect partner served with lightly herbed roast chicken. (VH)

Chile: Red

**** drink or cellar
Botalcura 'La Porfia Grand Reserve' Carménère 2005
Rapel Valley $18.95 (061887)
This is a gorgeous offering with rich fruit aromas and flavours. Look for black currant, ripe black briary berry and kirsch liqueur up front, with enough moderating acidity to hold it far from jammy. There's good balance and a medium-length dry finish. This is more than capable of holding up to spicy and rich cuisine like pasta puttanesca or even pasta arrabbiata. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Terranoble 'Gran Reserva' Merlot 2004
Maule Valley $15.95 (062018)
Soft, round and plush; look for black Damson plum and spice box aromas that segue flavours of red and dark ripe berry fruit and ripe red cherry. The tannin is imperceptible while the medium-length finish is focused on bright cherry fruit infused with nuances of black licorice. Enjoy this over the next two to three years alongside gourmet burgers. (VH)

**** drink now
Santa Rita 'Reserva' Pinot Noir 2006
Leyda Valley $14.95 (065458)
This delivers on all counts—value, structure and flavour. Light on its feet, it's light to medium bodied and softly textured. It delivers a perfumed nose of blueberry, red licorice and a delicious stream of balanced flavours—pomegranate, spiced black cherry and coffee. The medium-length finish delivers more of the same. This is not a typical Pinot, but it's delicious all the same. Pair it with smoked duck breasts over mesculan salad lightly drizzled with mango chutney. (VH)

Chile: Powerful Reds

****1/2 drink or cellar
Ventisquero Queulat 'Gran Reserva' Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
Maipo Valley $16.95 (061937)
This is a powerful red exhibiting rich and robust aromas and flavours. The aromas dance off the glass with a dazzling array of smoky toasty notes coupled with dark berry fruit and spice. The flavours form a gusher on the palate with wave after wave of cassis, ripe black currant and sweet vanilla flavours while the structured and lengthy finish delivers a boatload of deep, rich and concentrated dark berry fruit. Pair this with steak, grilled rare to medium rare. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Viña Tarapacá 'Gran Reserva' Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
Maipo Valley $15.95 (018721)
Rich and compelling; this delivers a lifted nose of leather, earthy and spiced dark plum aromas then gets into high gear with a mouthful of creamy-textured flavours with spicy Bing cherry, cassis and ripe pomegranate up front. The lingering finish on this medium-bodied gem is an outstanding experience with rich cherry and spice predominant. Pair this with a rich steak and kidney pie. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Pérez Cruz 'Reserva' Carménère 2006
DO Maipo Valley, Limited Edition $24.95 (670539)
A perennial favourite with winecurrent, Perez Cruz seems to never disappoint. Aromas of black plum and raspberry float off the glass while the expansive flavours include sweet ripe black cherry, dark chocolate and hints of espresso roast. This is full bodied and nicely textured. It delivers good structure with its underpinning of ripe supple tannin and deft balance with a moderating dollop of welcomed acidity. The finish is dry and lip-smacking good. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Santa Carolina 'Barrica Selection' Petit Verdot 2006
Rapel Valley $14.95 (007484)
The 'Barrica Selection' on the label is a virtual seal of approval for good- to great-value wine; this one easily earns the 'great-value' tag. This is heady stuff and not for the faint of heart. It opens with expressive aromas of black plum and toasty notes then delivers a wave of well-focused, structured and fully textured flavours. Ripe tannin help form the medium-bodied frame while the succulent flavours provide adornment with sweet cassis, rich black briary berry and spiced ripe cranberry to the fore. The finish lingers and is well balanced. The price-quality balance is tipped heavily in your favour—pick up a case. (VH)

**** drink now
Terra Andina 'Altos' Syrah/Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
Maipo Valley $18.95 (693895)
This Wine of the Month red blend is as smooth as silk and ready to party. Look for expressive aromas of toasty oak, spiced black berry fruit and tarry notes. Medium bodied and generously textured; the rich ripe flavours offer a mélange of bluberry, sweet cassis, spice box and dark berry fruit while it finishes lengthy and well balanced with a dollop of bright red cherry. Pair this with grilled lamb tenderloins. (VH)

Austria: White

***1/2 drink or cellar
Lenz Moser 'Prestige' Grüner Veltliner Trocken 2006
Niederösterreich $14.95 (071233)
You see Grüners on wine lists in the hip n' happening wine bars; whet your palate on this one. Loads of floral and mineral aromas waft from the glass of this lightly coloured racy offering. The palate is treated to a steady stream of refreshing and zesty flavours—ripe citrus, Granny Smith apple, and hints of herbal notes. Medium bodied and similarly textured, the finish is clean and refreshing. This hits its stride with seafood; pair with steamed mussels. (VH)

The Main Release

Fortified Wine

**** drink or cellar
Offley Late Bottle Vintage Port 2000
Portugal $19.95 (070086)
This is offley good, showcasing its food-friendly nature and food-pairing versatility with chocolate desserts, hard aged cheese, and steak, when prepared in and served with a port wine sauce. Spiced fig, sweet caramel and raisin aromas billow from the glass while the flavours are cassis, sweet black cherry and hints of spiced black curant. There's good balance, a creamy texture and a very lengthy finish. This offers good value. (VH)

Canada: White

****1/2 drink now
Coyote's Run Chardonnay 'Reserve' 2006
VQA Niagara Peninsula $20.95 (049775)
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) This is a meticulously made wine deserving of your attention. Stunning aromatics drift off the glass of this medium-bodied, well-balanced Chard—spice (nutmeg and cloves) plus toasty notes and vanilla. The flavours are quite focused—apple and pear—while the texture is almost creamy and honeyed, yet the wine is dry and zingy. It finishes fruit forward, clean and refreshing. Pair it with herbed roast chicken. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Fielding Estate Gewürztraminer 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula $16.00 (078501)
The bronze-hued liquid in the glass will draw your attention while the rosewater and spice-laden aromas will certainly keep it. This is a light and spritzy effort, although there's good texture, just the thing for summer quaffing. Look for flavours of orange peel and spice-infused citrus that rides through the lengthy dry and refreshing finish. Perfect as an aperitif, it would also pair well with lighter-styled appetizers. (VH)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Tawse 'Sketches of Niagara' Riesling 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula $18.20 (089029)
Medium bodied, well balanced and sporting a crisp and dry attack of citrus flavours, this combines interesting sweet stone fruit flavours with a bracing spine of acidity. Expect yellow peach and pear flavours juxtaposed with white grapefruit and crisp lime zest. This is just the wine for a pairing with ceviche. (VH)

**** drink now
Vineland Estates Sauvignon Blanc 2006
VQA Niagara Peninsula $16.95 (551168)
Herbaceous, citrus and mineral aromas provide segue to this beautifully balanced and richly textured SB. It's a lip-smacking mouth-watering gusher of ripe citrus and lemongrass on the palate. This is medium in texture and weight. It finishes dry and refreshing and begs for a mess of grilled prawns, previously marinated in lemon juice and served with a sprinkling of cilantro. (VH)

California: White

***1/2 drink now
Blackstone Sauvignon Blanc 2006
Monterey County $16.95 (586149)
Grassy, pungent nettles and freshly sliced green apple aromas billow from the expressive nose. The well-defined flavours include white peach and solid citrus notes. This is light to medium bodied, nicely textured and finishes with a lingering clean and refreshing dollop of ripe citrus. It's built for warm-weather quaffing and seafood appetizers. (VH)

California: Red

**** drink or cellar
Artesa 'Reserve' Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
Napa Valley $39.95 (067280)
Yet another fine wine from Artesa, this opens with aromas exotic spice, earthy nuances and dark berry fruit. It's medium bodied and medium textured with a nicely balanced finish and well-integrated oak. There's good grip from the tannin, and generous acidity that's delivered through a gusher of cranberry and red cherry flavours on the lingering finish. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Beringer Cabernet Sauvignon 2003
Napa Valley $28.95 (091058)
Richly textured and full of ripe succulent fruit, this is a well-structured offering with a lengthy finish. Aromas of briary berry fruit, mint, nuances of earthiness and espresso roast segue the ripe sweet flavours that bathe the palate—cassis and Bing cherry are predominant. This is medium bodied and deftly balanced with a seamless integration of oak. Drink now to 2012 with grilled beef tenderloin. (VH)

**** drink now
Freemark Abbey Merlot 2002
Rutherford, Napa Valley $31.95 (001602)
Charming and seductive, this opens with an expressive nose of spice, herbs and mixed field berry fruit. There are oodles of luscious and zesty fruit flavours—ripe pomegranate, red cherry, cassis and black currant. It's medium bodied, smooth as silk and provides great balance in its nicely formed finish of fruit and tang. It's drinking well now and would be paired beautifully with osso bucco or Beef Wellington. (VH)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Markham Merlot 2004
Napa Valley $25.95 (738740)
A nicely balanced wine that's not overdone; one can enjoy the last glass as much or more than the first. You'll discover spice box, black plum and mocha aromas while the palate's treated to enticing flavours of kirsch liqueur, spiced Bing cherry and blueberry. Well-textured and sporting a dry balanced and clean finish, this is enjoyable on its own, but will also match up to roasts, stews and poultry. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Paraduxx 2005
Napa Valley $58.95 (919662)
It's gutsy and powerful, but you can still drink it now with a two-hour aeration / decant. This Zin blend has 32% Cabernet Sauvignon providing good grip and structure. The nose is all about smoky and black berry fruit aromas while the flavours are generous waves of ripe freshly picked red cherry plus spice box and cassis. It's very well balanced, medium to full bodied, fully textured and sports a lingering finish redolent of ripe sweet black raspberry fruit. It's also full value for the price. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Raymond 'Reserve' Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
Napa Valley $34.95 (715979)
This opens with a perfumed nose of spice and oak aromas then settles into succulent and expressive flavours of black currant and ripe pomegranate, along with spice-infused sweet black plum. It's also in the grip of a serious tannin structure that portends an optimum drinking window 2010 to 2016. Can't wait? Pair with rare- to medium-rare grilled strip loins after a three-hour aeration/decant. Medium bodied and nicely textured, it finishes balanced, dry and clean. (VH)

Argentina: White

***1/2 drink now
Vinecol Torrontés 2007
Mendoza $13.95 (032748)
Torrontés is always highly perfumed—you could dab some behind your ear, but don't—it tastes too good. This one's on the lighter side, but all the elements are there beginning with expressive Muscat-like aromas—orange, floral, nutmeg and exotic spices. On the palate it's fresh and refreshing with ripe citrus and yellow peach flavours to the fore. A perfect aperitif wine, it's also suited for lighter-styled spicy Asian food. (VH)

Argentina: Red

***1/2 drink or cellar
Catena Zapata 'Alamos' Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
Mendoza $13.95 (467944)
A consistent performer in winecurrent reviews, it continues to offer value. Bistro-styled and made for early and easy drinking, look for coffee and earthy tones on the nose then a solid core of tang and zest from cranberry and pie cherry flavours. There's generous texture, ripe tannin and a nicely balanced dry finish. This pairs extremely well with pasta in tomato sauce, try lasagna or spaghetti Bolognese. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Clos de Los Siete 2006
Mendoza $24.95 (622571)
Those 'in the know' will be lined up for this. Dark and brooding in the glass, it delivers an awesome array of aromas—red cherry, kirsch liqueur, spice box and coffee. The sweet dark fruit flavours of cassis and black briary berry are underpinned by perceptible tannin and moderated by gorgeous acidity. It's medium bodied and sports a lingering and deftly balanced finish. Drink now to 2014 and now that you're in the know, get in line. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Finca Flichman 'Expresiones Reserve' Malbec/Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
Mendoza $15.95 (507707)
Pick up a case of this and drink over the next two years—you'll congratulate yourself a dozen times. This is gorgeous and flirted with a five star rating. Aromas of vanilla, black plum and black raspberry billow from the nose of this medium-bodied and fully textured blend. The flavours are rich, robust and focused—ripe juicy black cherry and sweet cassis. The dry finish is well balanced and lengthy. It's lovely on its own and superb with a grilled steak or gourmet burgers hot off the Weber. (VH)

**** drink now
La Puerta Bonarda 'Reserva' 2005
Famatina Valley $13.95 (067801)
Bonarda may be an unfamiliar grape, it's used primarily for blending, but don't let that deter you. Until recently it was Argentina's most widely planted grape—now second to Malbec. Minty, earthy and chockfull of spice on the nose, the expressive and succulent flavours deliver copious amounts of dark berry fruit and sweet cassis flavours. It's silky smooth and ready to drink, but it's not without character and structure. This is hard to pass by at this price. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Trapiche 'Broquel' Malbec 2006
Mendoza $15.95 (017210)
This earned its final half star on its exceptional value and delicious flavours. No hint of green in this Malbec, it's ripe, juicy and ready to drink. The aromas are smoke, toast and dark berry fruit while the very expressive flavours are in the sweet dark berry and juicy black cherry zones. It's medium bodied, generously textured and deftly balanced with supple tannin and moderating acidity. The finish lingers, delivering a solid core of fruit flavour. (VH)

Australia: White

*** drink or cellar
Devil's Lair 'Fifth Leg' Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon/Chardonnay 2007
Western Australia $20.95 (489062)
This WA blend offers crisp and refreshing aromas and flavours. On the nose there's grassy and citrus notes while the palate delivers a lip-smacking gusher of crisp citrus flavours—ripe lemon, key lime and white grapefruit. It's medium bodied, nicely textured and delivers a zesty and refreshing finish. Pair this with cedar-planked grilled salmon under a generous squeeze of fresh lemon. (VH)

Australia: Red

****1/2 drink now
Mr. Riggs 'The Gaffer' Shiraz 2006
McLaren Vale, South Australia $23.95 (047597)
Expressive and richly textured, this delivers a price-quality ratio that's clearly in your favour. It's quintessential McLaren Vale Shiraz delivering huge fruit and deft balance. Look for lifted aromas and ready-to-drink flavours of mulberry, black raspberry and black pepper that are delivered on a creamy-textured and medium-bodied frame. The finish is lengthy, luxurious and fruit forward. Pair with back-straps (tenderloin) of lamb, Mate. (VH)

New Zealand: White

**** drink now
Ra Nui Wines Sauvignon Blanc 2007
Marlborough, South Island $19.95 (658542)
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) Meticulous vine management and wine-making techniques have produced this fully textured and flavourful gem. Low-yielding fruit (2.5 tons per acre) was hand picked then whole-bunch pressed with a small portion barrel fermented and oak aged. It opens with familiar Marlborough SB aromas of grass and passion fruit then surprises the palate with a delightful flow of juicy sweet ripe pit fruit along with the expected racy green apple and citrus tang. Well balanced and well priced, it's perfect for summer quaffing or paired with smoked salmon. (VH)

France: White

****1/2 drink or cellar
Domaines Schlumberger Riesling 'Les Princes Abbés' 2005
AOC Alsace $25.95 (981662)
This is one classy Riesling; it's for aficionados and those on their way there. It delivers a mineral and steely nose along with a mélange of tree fruit flavours, ripe citrus, white peach and pear. It's medium bodied with just the right amount of texture. The dry, balanced and zesty finish portends good ageing potential, at least 7 more years, along with delicious drinking now. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Ferraton Père & Fils Côtes du Rhône 'Samorëns Blanc' 2006
AOC Côtes du Rhône $14.95 (073916)
This is very much in the style of Chablis with added texture, it delivers a dry and tangy mouthful of citrus flavours on a medium-bodied frame. It's crisp and refreshing with oodles of lemon and grapefruit flavours that blossom on the lengthy mouth-watering finish. You'll be convinced of the Chablis comparison when you pair this with freshly shucked briny oysters. This offers good bang for your buck. (VH)

France: Red

**** drink or cellar
Château Fonréaud 2003
AOC Listra-Médoc, Cru Bourgeois Supérieur $33.95 (085290)
This is a well-run estate with close to an even split of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, with a smidgeon of Petit Verdot, in their vineyard. Their oak regimen sees one-third in new and the balance in seasoned barrels for approximately 12 months. The aromas and flavours have depth and concentration, redolent of ripe rich briary berry, blue berry and cassis. It's medium bodied, nicely textured and sports a well-balanced and lingering finish. For a wine of its provenance, it's very well priced. Safe to cellar now to 2016. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Gérard Bertrand 'Terroir' Syrah/Carignon 2005
AOC Minervois $15.95 (952804)
Here's one of the value stars of this release; any purchase, from an armful to a case, is a wise one. Look for mixed spice box, rich black cherry and gamey aromas that introduce wave after wave of solid and involved flavours with cassis, black raspberry, herbs, spices and black licorice notes predominant. There's generous acidity for balance and enough tannin to provide good structure. This is a full-bore hedonistic red blend from the expressive nose to the extremely well-balanced and lengthy finish. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Château-Fortia Châteauneuf-du-Pape 'Cuvée du Baron' 2005
AOC Châteauneuf-du-Pape $39.95 (959999)
Sleek and classy, this combines a powerful structure with a sense of elegance. Expect rich and robust aromas and flavours with ripe sweet black cherry, spice, tarry notes and a field mix of dark berries. It's very generous in texture and medium bodied in weight. The finish is gorgeous; it's lengthy and dripping with flavour—red cherry, bramble berry and espresso roast. Drink now and over the next eight years. It's worth every penny, and then some. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Les Truffiers Vacqueyras 2005
AOC Vacqueyras $17.95 (076562)
Vacqueyras wines are capable of being rich, dense and age worthy, as this wine proves. The expressive aromas are gamey, earthy with ripe dark berry fruit. It's pretty much the same on the palate with ripe concentrated black raspberry, smoky bacon, and black licorice flavours. It's underpinned by supple tannin and there's a generous dollop of moderating acidity for balance. It finishes dry and fruity. There's good value here. (VH)

France: Rosé

**** drink now
Domaine Corne-Loup Tavel Rosé 2007
AOC Tavel $16.95 (071209)
Aromas of strawberry, ripe rhubarb and cranberry follow through to the tangy and zesty flavours in this medium-bodied, nicely textured Rosé. This is well balanced and nicely focused, providing the perfect platform from which to dive into myriad summer cuisine options. It's a match made in heaven with salty and/or smoked deli meats, hard aged cheeses, goat cheese salad, or smoked salmon with cream cheese and red onion on a Montreal bagel. Serve well chilled. (VH)

Italy: White

**** drink now
Fattoria Laila Verdicchio Dei Castelli Di Jesi Classico Superiore 2006
DOC Verdicchio Dei Castelli Di Jesi Classico Superiore $15.95 (073437)
Look for aromas and flavours in the citrus, and stone fruit zones—ripe lemon, white peach, green apple and juicy ripe pear. It's medium bodied, well balanced and sports a lovely zingy finish. This is an excellent wine to serve with all manner of seafood, either as a main or an appetizer; it's got the structure, balance and oomph to hold its own. This also delivers good value. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Fontanafredda 'Moncucco' Moscato d'Asti 2006
DOCG Moscato d'Asti $19.95 (673277)
Often described as 'sunshine in a glass'; you simply must give this a try. It's spritzy (delivers bubbles, but fewer than sparkling wine), a huge crowd-pleaser, and sweet with very low alcohol—only 5.5%—allowing you to be both chic and socially responsible when serving as an aperitif. Very perfumed, it offers aromas of exotic spice and orange blossom while the flavours are candied mandarin orange and ripe sweet citrus. It's uncomplicated and always a hit when served outdoors or when guests arrive. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Botromagno Gravina 2006
DOC Gravina Bianco, Puglia $14.95 (082040)
Perfumed and powerful Muscat-like aromas—oranges, grapey and exotic spice—rip from the glass. You'll find an abundance of flavours that dance across the palate with sweet pineapple and ripe melon juxtaposed with zesty and racy lemony tang. Just the sweet and tart, yin and yang that allows this to pair so well with spicy cuisine like chicken biryani. It's medium bodied and nicely textured with a medium-length finish. Pick up an armful for drinking over the next few months. (VH)

*** drink now
La Cappuccina Soave 2007
DOC Soave $15.95 (081489)
Aromas and flavours of lemony citrus, apple, and pear stream through this light-bodied bistro-styled wine. Clean and refreshing, it offers an alternative to over-oaked and flabby whites. Light on its feet with clean, racy and zesty flavours, this is just the wine to serve as an aperitif or with scallops or prawns under a generous squeeze of lemon. (VH)

Italy: Red

****1/2 drink now
Spinelli 'Tatone' Montepulciano d'Abruzzo 2004
DOC Montepulciano d'Abruzzo $15.95 (994616)
This is gorgeous—succulent ripe fruit, moderating acidity, supple tannin, and with the price-quality balance tipped well in your favour. This is a rich deep purple in the glass with expressive aromas of dried dark berry fruit, black licorice and cassis. The flavours are concentrated and fruit forward; look for cherry, kirsch liqueur and nuances of tar. It's medium bodied, full textured and sports a well-balanced finish. Pick up a few. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Leone de Castris 'Maiana' Salice Salentino Rosso 2006
DOC Salice Salentino Rosso, Puglia $13.95 (717959)
Enticing aromas of dark cherry and leather segue sweet rich and concentrated flavours of black raspberry and spiced black plum on the palate. The lengthy finish echoes these, adding a layer of Bing cherry and moderating tang. Primarily Negroamaro (grown almost exclusively in Puglia), with Malvasia playing a supporting role, it's a value wine encouraging multiple purchase. Drink over the next two years alongside grilled red meats or pizza. (VH)

**** drink now
Villa Santera Primitivo de Manduria 2006
DOC Primitivo de Manduria, Puglia $17.95 (730952)
This is another Wine of the Month that's a wonderful selection; it showcases many Zinfandel-like attributes. The aromas and flavours are all about sweet ripe succulent fruit—black briary berry, ripe mulberry and racy red cherry for balance. Medium bodied and medium textured, those ripe fruit flavours stream to and through the finish. This pairs well with burgers, laden with all the fixings. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Barone de Renzis Sonnino 'Castello Sonnino Cantinino' 2005
IGT Toscana $32.95 (072462)
Sangiovese on steroids, this delivers a rich and heavily textured mouthful of juice. There are aromas of leather and berry fruit while the flavours are in the Bing cherry and cassis zones. There's good structure from the ripe fine-grained tannin and enough racy zest for balance. This is looking for a dish that pairs well, make mine Boeuf Bourgignon, please. (VH)

***** drink or cellar
Il Molino de Grace Chianti Classico 2004
DOCG Chianti Classico $26.95 (085209)
The 'Classico' indicates the wine is from an exalted sub region; nosing and tasting it is a near-religious experience. Smoke, oak and ripe black berry fruit billow from this stunning medium-bodied creamy-textured gem. The flavours—ripe Bing cherry, spicy black plum and espresso roast—are ably supported by the firm tannin structure and moderating acidity. There's near-perfect balance and a lingering luscious finish. It's rich, elegant and age worthy; drink now to 2014. (VH)

**** drink now
Renzo Masi Chianti Riserva 2004
DOCG Chianti $15.95 (969469)
This earned its final half star on taste and the value it offers. There's a mélange of aromas and flavours including lilac, black currant, earthy tones and minty cherry. Medium bodied and highly textured you'll find acceptable tannin and oodles of moderating acidity and tang on the lengthy finish. Pair this with steak Florentine. (VH)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Brigaldara Valpolicella 2006
DOC Valpolicella $15.95 (917864)
Not a Ripasso, but it still delivers a delicious mouthful of light and refreshing red wine—straightforward, uncomplicated and bistro styled. It begins with aromas and flavours of red cherry and spice box. Look for a light-bodied and nicely textured wine that is round and ready to drink with deli meats and other light cuisine. (VH)

**** drink now
Quintus Valpolicella Ripasso 2006
DOC Valpolicella Ripasso $17.95 (081455)
Expressive on the nose and palate, it's eyebrow-raising when tasted. Perfumed floral aromas, followed by lifted fruit, cherry and briary berry, segue a rush of rich and concentrated flavours including sweet blackberry, ripe dark plum and dried fruit. It's medium in weight and texture, delivering a lengthy balanced finish that adds hints of coffee and black currant. This is a willing partner with osso bucco or lasagna. (VH)

Spain: Red

**** drink now
Finca Antigua Crianza 2004
DO La Mancha $15.95 (981613)
From the highly respected Martínez Bujanda family, this Tempranillo blend delivers dark ripe cherry and spice box aromas with nuances of vanilla and oak. There's a lovely stream of sweet ripe berry and cherry fruit flavours that are infused with spice and dark chocolate. Good structure and balance portend another two or three years of optimum drinking while the medium texture and fruity finish point this to pair with stews and well-cooked meat dishes like beef daube or steak and kidney pie. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Finca Sobreño Crianza 2004
DO Toro $18.95 (040360)
This is a gutsy effort from 30 year-old 100% Tempranillo vines, hand harvested, tank fermented then aged seven months in American oak. Aromas of sweet oak and cassis billow from the nose while the succulent flavours include ripe dark berry, pie cherries and leather. The tannins are ripe and apparent, providing good grip and structure. Well balanced and fully textured, this will benefit from a one or two-hour aeration/decant before serving. It offers very good value. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Montgó Monastrel/Shiraz 2004
DO Yecla $14.95 (076588)
Another value star of this release, it's predominantly Monastrell (a.k.a. Mourvèdre or Mataró) and it's rich, grainy and powerful. There are involved aromas of forest floor, black currant and spice-infused blackberry setting up a gusher of sweet and ripe flavours—kirsch liqueur, briary berry and blueberry—underpinned by perceptible tannin. With all this going on, it's surprisingly approachable, well balanced and silky smooth on the palate and lingering finish. Good to go now with strip loin, grilled rare to medium rare, it will be drinking well for the next four years. Pick up a half-dozen or so. (VH)

Upstream in Winecurrent

September, 2008

*** drink now
Malivoire Pinot Noir 2006
VQA Beamsville Bench $27.00
Look for aromas of leafy herbs and dried berry fruit from the glass of this light-bodied red. There are oodles of acidity, delivered in a tightly focused stream of fruit flavours with zest and tang—cranberry, strawberry and ripe pomegranate among them. The finish lingers, delivering a clean and refreshing dollop of pie cherry flavour—an excellent effort in a challenging vintage. This is perfectly paired with thinly sliced heirloom tomato under a drizzle of olive oil and crumbled goat cheese. (VH)

New in Vintages

****1/2 drink now
Malivoire Chardonnay 2006
VQA Beamsville Bench $21.95 (573147)
Meticulous winemaking procedures—hand picked, whole cluster pressed, partial French oak barrel fermentation, full malolactic conversion and lees ageing for eight months—coalesced with eco-friendly vine management producing this medium-bodied fully textured gem. Expressive aromas, grapefruit and apple compote, segue a gorgeous array of fruit flavours with pineapple, ripe citrus and muskmelon predominant. The crisp clean finish lingers. Pair with roast pork tenderloin stuffed with dried apricots and cranberries. (VH)

New in the LCBO

Australia

**** drink now
Hardy's 'Nottage Hill' Shiraz 2006
South Australia $13.85 (375964)
From a respected, iconic Aussie producer, this delivers the goods, and then some. A perfumed nose of spiced black berry and ripe sweet cherry is precursor to flavours of rich Bing cherry and black Damson plum that are underpinned by supple tannin and seamlessly integrated oak. It's medium bodied with a medium-length finish that shows deft balance. Pair this with grilled red meat, steak or gourmet burgers. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Hardy's 'Nottage Hill' Chardonnay 2007
South Eastern Australia $11.45 (283457)
Medium-gold coloured in the glass with a slight green hue, this opens with delightful tropical fruit aromas—ripe pineapple and honeydew melon. It's light bodied, but showers the palate with delicate flavours of white peach and ripe citrus. There's good texture, imperceptible oak and a clean refreshing finish. This is terrific value and built for easy drinking. (VH)

California

*** drink now
Robert Mondavi 'Woodbridge' Pinot Grigio 2007
California $10.95 (523431)
Floral and mineral notes are nicely intertwined with the predominant citrus aromas. Light textured and very focused, this delivers good strong citrus flavours on the palate and throughout the crisp and clean finish. It's light on its feet throughout while the finish delivers the kind of lip-smacking citrus flavours that demand a seafood match; pair with pan seared scallops under a drizzle of freshly squeezed lemon. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Robert Mondavi 'Woodbridge' Chardonnay 2006
California $13.45 (99408)
There are involved aromas of tropical fruit, vanilla and hints of oak on the nose of this value-packed Chard. It's medium bodied generously textured and sports a salad bowl of ripe fruit flavours—yellow peach, Bosc pear and zesty lemon. The finish is crisp and clean making it an ideal partner with freshwater fish, try trout or bass, pan-seared in a patty of butter then drizzled with a squirt of fresh lemon. (VH)

France

**** drink now
Chateau de Gourgazaud 2006
AOC Minervois $13.20 (22384)
Earthy, minty and dark berry fruit form the lifted nose of this lusciously textured medium-bodied blend—Syrah and Mourvèdre. The flavours stream onto the palate in delectable waves, with rich cherry, dark chocolate plus hints of zesty cranberry predominant. It's well balanced, sports a lengthy finish and punches well above its price. (VH)

Ontario

*** drink now
Hillebrand 'Trius' Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
VQA Niagara Peninsula $14.95 (587956)
There are minty, earthy and dark berry fruit aromas on the nose while the flavours are cranberry, ripe pomegranate and pie cherries. This is medium bodied and tightly focused with reasonable texture and a dry clean finish. This is perfectly paired with pasta in a Bolognese sauce or spicy lasagna. (VH)

Italy

**** drink now
Danzante Merlot 2006
IGT Della Sicilia $11.95 (73833)
Dusty notes and sweet ripe cherry aromas drift off the glass. It's very smooth on the palate and extremely well balanced with bright and crisp flavours of cassis and dark Bing cherry. What I liked most was the medium-length dry finish as it added solid structure and charm. This easy-drinking bistro-styled wine delivers well above its price, offering more than most reds under $12; it earned its final half-star on value. Pair with pizza, burgers and lasagna. (VH)

*** drink now
Danzante Pinot Grigio 2007
IGT Della Venezie $13.85 (26906)
Mineral, floral and spice aromas lead the way for expressive flavours of green apple, spiced pear and a gusher of zesty citrus. This is light to medium bodied and nicely textured while the medium-length finish delivers a spicy stream of lemony flavours. Pair this with steamed mussels in a garlic and cream sauce. (VH)

New in Ontario Wineries

***1/2 drink now
The Grange of Prince Edward County 'Trumpour's Mill' Pinot Grigio 2007
VQA Prince Edward County $17.00 (69336)
There's 100% County fruit in this. It's zesty and herbaceous on the nose and it hits the palate with a fine stream of citrus acidity complemented by hints of white peach. It's quite creamy in texture and medium bodied in weight. There's a clean and refreshing lime bite on the medium-length finish that sets this up for seafood. Pair with scallop ceviche garnished with parsley and mint. Order by the case for office or home delivery via this link The Grange of Prince Edward County. (VH)

**** drink now
Malivoire 'Late Harvest' Gewürztraminer 2006
VQA Beamsville Bench $26.00 375 mL
This is an appealing alternative to ice wine when looking for an elegant dessert wine with rich, but not cloying flavours, plus perfect balance that makes each sip as good or better than the one before. Spice, rosewater and lychee aromas introduce the succulent flavours to the palate—caramelized pineapple, super-ripe nectarine and moderating citrus. The finish is luxurious and lingering. Serve as an aperitif or pair with all manner of fruit desserts. Order by the case for office or home delivery via this link Malivoire Wine Company. (VH)

**** drink now
Malivoire Gamay 2006
VQA Niagara Escarpment $17.00
The lifted nose billows forth with spice box and dark berry fruit while the flavours—rich black currant and ripe Bing cherry—glide along on the silky smooth texture. It's medium bodied, offers a ripe tannin structure and a well-balanced lingering finish. Martin Malivoire points to Gamay as the future signature grape in Niagara, highlighting its affinity for the macro-climate and the promising wines produced to date. Order by the case for office or home delivery via this link Malivoire Wine Company. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Malivoire 'Courtney' Gamay 2006
VQA Beamsville Bench $22.05
This is very limited, only 3.5 acres producing 170 cases; don't dally, the price-quality ratio favours you. Perfumed persuasive aromas of lilac, mocha, black briary berry and spice introduce this medium-bodied beautifully textured gem. Unlike many reds from this vintage, it's fruit-laden, almost rich and robust. Look for mulberry, spiced black Damson plum and bright red cherry flavours lingering on the deftly balanced finish. Martin Malivoire proved it food-friendly, pairing with hard cheeses and Serrano ham. Order by the case for office or home delivery via this link Malivoire Wine Company.

****1/2 drink now
Malivoire Pinot Gris 2006
VQA Beamsville Bench $19.00
Charming and seductive, it's clearly the best Pinot Gris I've tasted from Niagara. Mineral, citrus and floral on the nose, this hits its stride on the palate with a medium-bodied structure and flavours of ripe citrus, pineapple and crisp Granny Smith apple that glide along on a silky smooth texture. The zesty and refreshing finish is balanced, food-friendly and looking for a large bowl of mussels, steamed in garlic, leeks and this wine. Order by the case for office or home delivery via this link Malivoire Wine Company. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Peller Estates 'Private Reserve' Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95
This opens with an expressive nose of deep rich ripe dark berry fruit and spice box nuances. Medium bodied and very nicely textured this shows deft balance between the fruit flavours—ripe Bing cherry, black currant and red cherry—and moderating acidity. The finish is fruity and dry with lots of tang. Pair this with a grilled strip loin, rare to medium rare. Order by the case for home or office delivery via this link Peller Estates Winery. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Peller Estates 'Private Reserve' Chardonnay 2006
VQA Niagara Peninsula $18.95
Tropical fruit, vanilla and spice aromas waft from the glass. There's an impressive outpouring of citrus zest, spice (cloves and nutmeg) and crisp Granny Smith apple on the palate while it finishes dry and refreshing. Pair this with a pan-seared white fish, like Tilapia, under a generous squeeze of fresh lemon. Order by the case for home or office delivery via this link Peller Estates Winery. (VH)

**** drink now
Peller Estates Rosé 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula $16.95
This is a gutsy mouthful of delicious flavour. Pungent and spicy aromas billow from the glass with red cherry and cranberry to the fore. The flavours are an expressive explosion on the palate with strawberry, ripe rhubarb and sweet red grapefruit predominant. There's an off-dry quality to this that makes it mouth-watering delicious and the perfect partner to smoked deli meats, goat cheese salad or spicy blackened fish. Order by the case for home or office delivery via this link Peller Estates Winery. (VH)

Consignment Wine

California

****1/2 drink or cellar
Hanna Winery & Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
Alexander Valley $42.15
Alexander Valley is a premium appellation, '04 is a great vintage and this wine is great value. You'll find mixed spice box plus earthy and minty aromas billowing from this classy and elegant California Cab. It's medium bodied and silky textured, delivering a steady stream of amazing warm (14.4% alcohol) flavours—cassis, mulberry and black briary berry among them. Perfectly balanced, it provides perceptible, but acceptable, tannin, a defined structure and the potential to age. Drink now to 2014. Order by the case for home or office delivery via this email This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Torres 'Marimar Estate - Don Miguel Vineyard' Pinot Noir
Sonoma County $48.25 (138072)
The exotic and involved aromas include smoked meat, dark berry fruit and nuances of lilac. Fully flavoured, medium bodied and richly textured, the deftly balanced flavours of spicy zesty cranberry, ripe sweet pomegranate and black currant glide along to and through the warm (14.2% alcohol) leisurely finish. The aromas and flavours opened up in the glass suggesting a one- or two-hour aeration/decant. The tannin are ripe and supple while the price is more than fair. Order by the case for home or office delivery via this email This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.. (VH)

France

**** drink now
Chateau Sainte Marie 'Veilles Vignes' 2006
AOC Entre deux Mers $18.70
A gorgeous white Bordeaux blend of 68% Sauvignon Blanc, 28% Semillon amd 8% Muscadelle, billowing forth with honeyed fruit, mineral and straw aromas. It's medium bodied and slightly off dry delivering an explosion of flavours on the palate—honeyed and spiced pear, apple compote, and a bracing stream of ripe lemon-lime citrus zest for balance. Low yields and older vines—some of the Semillon is 100+ years—mark this as special. This really struts its stuff as an aperitif. Order by the case for home or office delivery from Rob Elvy of The Small Winemakers Collection at 613.530.0575. (VH)

New Zealand

**** drink now
Palliser Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2006
Martinborough $21.15
Very expressive on the nose, it bursts forward with exuberant aromas of wild herbs, ripe red apple and a bouquet of flowers. In the mouth it's all about ripe citrus and stone fruit flavours with rich yellow plum, ripe nectarine and yellow peach up front. It's medium bodied and nicely textured with a zippy and refreshing lemon-lime finish. Pair this very good value wine with mussels steamed in coconut milk, with a slice of lime. Order by the case for home or office delivery via this email This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.. (VH)

Spain


****1/2 drink or cellar
Conde de Siruela 2006
DO Ribera del Duero $15.95
Spice box, gamey nuances and distinctive tapenade aromas waft from this 100% Tempranillo beauty. The rich and robust flavours burst on the palate with sweet cherry, spiced black plum and cassis up front. It's medium bodied, nicely textured, and sports firm tannin providing structure and grip. The well-balanced finish lingers. Drink now to 2014 with savoury stew or grilled red meats. There's a world of value here. Order by the case for home or office delivery via email from Aaron Shaw This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.. (VH)

Cheers,

Vic

Rating System

We use the following symbols when rating wines:

5 starsWines achieving nirvana
4 stars Wines of excellence
3 stars Wines well worth trying
2  stars Wines below average, but drinkable
1 star Wines better avoided, unless desperate
half star Represents a half star
2 glassesWe both agree —a brilliant wine!
drink nowDrink now and over the next 2 years
drink or cellarDrink now and over the next 5 years
cellarPlace in cellar