Winecurrent.com delivers a comprehensive and complete review of the Vintages Release wines tasted. No short cuts, no skimping, just honest and complete reviews of the wines that were made available for tasting at the LCBO, earning 3 stars and above, to help you make your selections.

A New Zealand feature kicks off this release—Pinot Noir, other reds then white—followed by a timely (summer is almost here) section on Rosés. The main release follows with the usual country/region reviews.

Other highlights in this Winecurrent newsletter include:

• Australian-born winemaker sheds light on California grapes and tastes through a lovely portfolio of his wines available now and upcoming in the LCBO (read more)
• The New Zealand feature has a couple of lovely Pinot Noir, a great value Sauvignon Blanc and a killer Gewürztraminer
• If you're looking for good value BBQ wines for summer and fall, this is the release to stock up. You'll find them throughout the newsletter
• Following the main release, you'll find some exciting upcoming wines in the 'Upstream' report, a few new and good value products in the General List section and three Ontario VQA wineries with reviews in the Ontario winery-only section plus another fine selection of premium consignment wines (not available in LCBO retail stores) completes the newsletter

An explanation of the scoring system and icons is included at the end of this newsletter.



Shepherds Ridge Vineyard Pinot Noir 2006
Marlborough, South Island $24.95 (586099)
Everything in cadence here; it's well made, well paced, well priced. Expect gorgeous aromas and flavours of exotic spice, voluptuous ripe dark berry fruit on a medium-bodied frame. It's very fleshy, almost creamy in texture, and sports a lengthy fruit-driven finish of cloves and ripe juicy black currant flavours. Pour alongside smoked duck breast. (VH)


Lowburn Ferry Pinot Noir 2006
Central Otago, South Island $37.95 (060061)
Straightforward and uncomplicated, look for ripe berry fruit nicely balanced with a generous spine of tang in the form of sour cherry and cranberry flavours. Light to medium bodied, the finish has good balance and is clean and refreshing. Planked and barbecued salmon under a splash of ginger/lemon showcases the fruit in the wine. (VH)


Pisa Range Estata 'Black Poplar Block' Pinot Noir 2005
Central Otago, South Island $44.95 (062398)
There's a touch of old world here with aromas of earthiness and spice and flavours in the cranberry and pomegranate zones. It's taut and a bit austere, needing some time in the cellar. Under the drying tannins there's good fruit flavours—red cherry and blueberry. It finishes dry and spicy making it a good candidate to be paired with a spicy chicken satay. (VH)


Waitiri Creek Pinot Noir 2006
Central Otago, South Island $37.95 (683342)
This oozes class and complexity; it's clearly the top drop in this line up of Kiwi Pinots. Sensual aromas of smoke, dark berry fruit and spice box waft from the glass. Expect oodles of ripe fruit flavours—cassis and black briary berry to the fore. The oak has been deftly integrated and the balance is near perfect. You'll experience fine-grained tannin for structure and a racy dollop of tang for balance. Enjoyable on its own, it hits its straps alongside chicken and sausage jambalaya. (VH)


Wild Rock 'Cupids Arrow' Pinot Noir 2006
Central Otago, South Island $22.95 (061242)
This is a lovely bistro-styled Pinot with friendly smooth approachability and versatility for pairing with many foods. It's fruit forward, displaying expressive flavours of spiced black plum and dark berry, with some nuances of tar and tobacco. The finish is well balanced and medium in length. Pair with all manner of game, fowl and poultry, especially herb- and spice-rubbed roasted chicken. The price-quality ratio is skewed in your favour. (VH)



Sacred Hill Basket Press Merlot 2006
Hawkes Bay, North Island $20.95 (060087)
Most of New Zealand's 'Bordeaux blend' reds are grown in the warm climate of the Hawkes Bay region, as you taste through the wines you discover why. You'll experience a lovely wine here with deft balance from a generous ladle of zesty tang and concentrated flavours, predominantly black plum, kirsch liqueur and black licorice. It's quite firmly entwined with grippy tannins for the moment; best kept in the cellar for drinking 2010 to 2015. If you can't wait, aerate for three hours and pour with rack of lamb, grilled rare to medium rare. (VH)


Coopers Creek 'Gravels and Metals' Merlot/Cabernet Franc 2004
Hawkes Bay, North Island $22.95 (056465)
Smoke and oak on the nose; this is smooth round n' ready on a nicely textured palate. You'll find a good amount of ripe juicy fruit flavours in the black raspberry and black currant zones with enough red cherry tang for pretty good balance. There are drying tannins on the medium-length finish. This pairs well with beefsteak that's been grilled medium rare or less. (VH)


Goldridge Estate 'Premium Reserve' Syrah 2005
Matakana, North Island $19.95 (060053)
There are more than a few green Kiwi reds out there and, thankfully, this is certainly not one. Complex, rich and fruit driven, you'll experience a well-balanced red with aromas and flavours of plum, black pepper, cassis and boysenberry jam. It's medium to full bodied with a lovely supple texture and a well balanced and fruity finish that's medium in length. Give this a go with grilled lamb tenderloins. Very well priced, indeed. (VH)



Sacred Hill Barrel Fermented Chardonnay 2006
Hawkes Bay, North Island $20.95 (060095)
Potent aromas of vanilla, smoke and oak blast off the glass of this fleshy and full-bodied gem. Expect a juicy and ripe salad bowl of tropical frit flavours—melon, pineapple and guava. There's good citrus tang on the mid palate and it finishes lengthy and luxurious with another wave of sweet, warm (14% alcohol) ripe tree fruit flavours. (VH)


Lawson's 'Dry Hills' Gewürztraminer 2006
Marlborough, South Island $18.95 (060129)
Lightly scented aromas of rose petals and spice box form segue to this smooth-textured white. It's medium bodied and well balanced with a ladle of citrus. It's also chock-full of tree fruit flavours—nectarine, peach and ripe Bosc pear. It sports a heady finish as the fruit keeps coming in waves with the added attraction of spice, mostly ginger. This is very well priced and pairs well with spicy Asian food like moo-shee chicken. (VH)


Vinoptima Estate 'Reserve' Gewürztraminer 2004
Gisborne, North Island $53.95 (65557)
(Not in the release catalogue, an In-store Discovery) Even at this price you'll have to crash door opening to snag a bottle if there are other Winecurrent subscribers in line. As stunning as any Grand Cru from Alsace; it opens with an impressive and expressive nose of rosewater, orange rind and spice then drenches the palate with a velvet smooth and intricate mouthful of spicy and honeyed nectarine, apricot, and ripe juicy yellow peach flavours. The residual sugar is magically integrated into perfect balance between it and racy acidity. The finish is monumental. (VH)


Sileni 'Cellar Selection' Sauvignon Blanc 2007
Marlborough, South Island $15.95 (662882)
Exuberant aromas of nettles and assorted grassy, herbaceous notes greet the fortunate taster. There's a delectable broad spectrum of flavours including gooseberry, passion fruit, white grapefruit and lemon zest. Medium bodied and gracefully textured, it pairs with grilled white fish, steamed mussels or chèvre. Pick up a few of this 'Wine of the Month' for summer quaffing—it's excellent value. (VH)



Vineland Estates Gamay Noir Rosé 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula $14.95 (078394)
We seldom see this grape vinified into a rosé; we should see more. This is a lovely wine that starts out with pretty floral and maraschino cherry notes then segues into an expansive medium-bodied gem simply brimming with zesty wild strawberry and red field berry flavours. It has a fleshy texture, good balance and a lengthy finish. Very well made and a delight to sip. (VH)


Peter Lehmann Rosé 2007
Barossa, South Australia $15.95 (034298)
Oodles of texture and flavour in this rosé, as in all Lehmann wines. Cranberry, red cherry and spicy notes are carried along on a surprisingly firm structure and a smooth as silk texture. The finish is particularly noteworthy with its dollop of zesty citrus flavour and persistent length. Serve well chilled with a plate of your favourite deli snacks—smoked meats olives, cheese, humus dip, pâté and a baguette. (VH)


Kim Crawford 'Pansy' Rosé 2007
Gisborne, New Zealand $16.95 (650325)
This wine is dedicated to Auckland's gay community. It's the seventh vintage and the best one tasted. Pure and pristine; look for spicy and zesty fruit flavours, pomegranate and freshly sliced strawberry among them, all delivered on a silky smooth texture. It offers deft balance and a lengthy clean and refreshing finish. This is a good quaffing wine that'll easily stand up to veal or chicken dishes. (VH)


Château d'Aqueria Tavel Rosé 2007
AOC Tavel, Rhône Valley $11.95 375 mL (712000); $20.95 750 mL (319368)
The iridescent pink colour attracts your attention and the wine will keep it. There are strawberry and rhubarb flavours galore in this medium-bodied beauty. It's tangy and well structured with a touch of tannin. It's well balanced throughout and the finish adds spice and savoury notes. The colour, the flavours and the texture will all pair well with a grilled salmon steak. (VH)



Williams & Humbert Walnut Brown Rare Old Brown Oloroso
Jerez, Spain $11.95 (437467)
What a treat - what a bargain. Dark amber with tinges of green on the edges; the aromas are divine with dark raisin, caramel and fig predominant. Warm and sweet on the palate, look for the aromas to follow through to flavours plus some lovely spice and nutty notes. The long sweet finish of this dessert wine cries out for spiced nut cake or ginger snaps. (VH)


Justino's Henriques 10-Year-Old Malvasia Madeira
Madeira $35.95 (069575)
Complex and classy, this is for all wine lovers and, especially, Madeira aficionados. This is the sweetest style of Madeira although there's a bracing spine of acidity to counter-balance the sweetness and keep it from cloying. You'll find very expressive flavours of orange rind, almonds, toffee and spice that linger luxuriously on the warm finish. Pour a glass after dinner with aged hard cheese, like cheddar or parmigiano reggiano, and roasted almonds. (VH)



Gloria Ferrer Sonoma Brut
Sonoma County $44.95 1500 mL (059543)
This is outstanding value. Made in the classic way, a.k.a. Méthode Champenoise—the second fermentation takes place in the bottle, as in Champagne, France. This magnum-size bottle opens with nutty, toasty leesy notes then attacks the palate with a glorious array of bubbles that deliver a mélange of crisp and zesty flavours—green apple, spiced citrus and honeyed pear among them. A gracious way to welcome guests, this has the oomph to be enjoyed with the meal. Pair it with Chicken Kiev. (VH)



Cave Spring 'Estate' Gewürztraminer 2006
VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (302059)
Rosewater and exotic spice aromas open this multi-layered and fully textured award-winning white from one of Niagara's top tier wineries. Lavish spiced and honeyed fruit flavours abound—pineapple, yellow peach and nectarine. It displays delicate balance and a lingering finish. It has that delightful sweet and tang, yin and yang that pairs perfectly with spicy Asian dishes, try Beef Panang or pan-seared fish with tamarind sauce. (VH)


Château des Charmes 'Estate' Sauvignon Blanc 2006
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake, Niagara Peninsula $15.95 (453423)
Look for mineral and herbaceous aromas in this zippy refreshing white. The zesty flavours—white grapefruit and lemon-lime predominant—persist from the first tantalizing splash on the palate to the clean and refreshing finish. Lovely to sip on its own, it's also a treat when poured with grilled and crumbled goat cheese sprinkled over arugala that's been lightly bathed in verjus. (VH)



Marynissen Cabernet/Merlot 2002
VQA Niagara Peninsula $14.95 (352682)
This earned its stripes and 'VQA Wine of the Month' status by delivering on all counts. It offers an alluring nose of spicy dark and rich black berry aromas. It's velvety smooth on the palate with oodles of sweet black cherry, kirsch liqueur and spice box flavours. The medium-length finish layers on vanillin and mocha notes. Medium bodied and nicely structured; the price quality balance is tipped well in your favour. Stock up for summer and fall BBQ grilled red meats. (VH)



Kendall-Jackson 'Vintner's Reserve' Chardonnay 2005
California $19.95 (369686)
The nutty, mineral and vanilla aromas provide segue to a clean and refreshing Chardonnay; there's no hint of buttery or over-oaked characteristics. This is taut and lean with crispy citrus acidity that's counter-balanced with tropical fruit—pineapple and melon—along with hints of tree fruit. There's good overall balance allowing it to be a suitable partner with pan-seared freshwater fish under a drizzle of freshly squeezed lemon. (VH)



Ironstone Vineyards Reserve Cabernet Franc 2005
Calaveras County $30.95 (701839)
This is a gorgeous effort from a winery that hits the bulls eye every time. Incredibly expressive, it opens with perfumed aromas of allspice and dark berry fruit. This is fully textured, medium to full bodied and firmly structured with lots of muscle. Expect a stream of involved and concentrated flavours—cassis, black licorice, espresso roast and spiced black plum. Tannins are still present; a two-hour decant is in order. Pair with AAA strip loin grilled rare to medium rare. (VH)


Klinker Brick Old Vine Zinfandel 2005
Lodi $22.95 (059113)
With its warm daytime climate and breezy cool evenings, Lodi produces rich and ripe fruit. There's more Zinfandel grown there than any other California AVA. This gargantuan Zin explodes on the palate with rich, ripe and sweet flavours—cassis, black raspberry jam and black cherry. It's what California Zin is all about, huge fruit flavours, fleshy, and ready for drinking now with no rough edges—a crowd-pleaser. It's also well-priced. (VH)


Rosenblum Vintner's Cuvée Syrah 2005
California $18.95 (686535)
This is Rosenblum's entry-level Syrah and a nice one, indeed. Look for waves of sweet, ripe and concentrated fruit flavours in the black briary berry and Bing cherry zones. It really delivers quite a punch from beginning to end, finishing with consistent and lingering cassis, spice and herb flavours. Save this for hefty cuisine, try grilled bison adorned with a Port wine sauce. (VH)



La Playa Block Selection Estate Reserve Carmenére 2006
Colchagua Valley $13.95 (059410)
This is very well-priced and worthy of your attention. You'll not find those green and herbaceous aromas often plaguing this varietal. A friendly wine, it delivers a good mouthful of red and black berry fruit with enough zest for balance and sufficient ripe tannin for structure. The finish is lovely and lingering with ripe cherry fruit, and spice box nuances. Well made, well paced and well priced; pick up a few for burgers, pizza or pasta dishes. (VH)



Heath 'Southern Sisters' Reserve Riesling 2005
Clare Valley, South Australia $19.95 (058487)
You won't find a much better area for Aussie Riesling than the Clare. The perfumed nose combines a cornucopia of aromas—mineral, spice, floral and quince jelly among them. The flavours are expressive, as well; look for ripe nectarine and key lime on the palate and lingering finish. Medium bodied and nicely textured, this pairs well with Alsace onion tart. (VH)


Jim Jim Unoaked Chardonnay 2007
McLaren Vale, South Australia $13.95 (058537)
Crisp and clean, this provides a good-value alternative to over-oaked efforts. You'll discover musk melon and mineral aromas while the flavours are predominantly white peach and zesty citrus. The medium length finish is clean and refreshing suggesting a pairing with steamed mussels in a white wine and leek sauce. (VH)



Kaesler Stonehorse Shiraz 2005
Barossa Valley, South Australia $29.95 (004259)
A monster of a wine awaits, almost Port-like, with heady aromas and robust flavours; not for the faint of heart. Cassis, aromatic bitters and licorice aromas blast off the glass of this fully textured and very full-bodied Aussie red. There are gobs of flavours that are in the rich and ripe sector—black raspberry, cassis and Bing cherry. It finishes with enough zest for balance and ripe fine-grained tannin for structure and longevity. Drink now to 2014. (VH)


Lengs & Cooter 'The Victor' Shiraz 2005
South Australia $21.95 (060434)
This is a huge Shiraz, even for Australia. Opulent boysenberry, spiced black plum and cassis flavours are delivered on an incredibly creamy and velvet texture. This is a full-bodied and nicely balanced drop. You'll also enjoy a ripe tannin structure and well integrated oak. The finish is quite lengthy, simply brimming with fruit. Pour this with rich Moroccan-style lamb. It's very good bang for your buck. (VH)


Tapestry Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
McLaren Vale, South Australia $24.95 (059980)
Teeth-staining and palate-coating, this is one ripper of a Cab. Look for hugely concentrated ripe and rich layers of red and black berry supported by vanillin, tobacco and tarry flavours. There's a lengthy finish that's also fruit-forward. It's full bodied and silky smooth. Much heftier than many from McLaren Vale, it still has its place and one of those places is beside a T-bone grilled rare to medium rare. (VH)



Lammershoek Barrique Chenin Blanc 2007
WO Swartland $18.95 (058206)
(Previously reviewed in Winecurrent) This displays elegance and finesse and is not to be passed by. Aromas of honeyed tree fruit and mangos waft from the glass while rich full flavours drench the palate—quince, caramel, honeyed ripe pear and cleansing key lime on the refreshing finish. Medium bodied and fleshy in texture, it pairs well with pan-seared garlic prawns on a bed of baby arugula. A dazzling wine. (VH)



Lacheteau Vouvray Les Loges 2006
AOC Vouvray $14.95 (525105)
Vouvray, a Loire Valley appellation, is famous for both sweet and off dry Chenin Blanc—this is off dry, not sweet. It has tantalizing aromas of sweet pit fruit and ginger. The flavours are a trio of sweet, even honeyed, fruit—pineapple, melon and nectarine. It's sensual, medium bodied and sports a lengthy finish that's lip-smacking delicious. At this price, pick up a few for summer quaffing. (VH)


Mas Des Bressades Cuvée Tradition Blanc 2007
AOC Costières de Nîmes $12.95 (70194)
A Winecurrent perennial favourite, this does not disappoint in quality or value—pick up a few for summer and fall. Straightforward and uncomplicated, look for a perfumed nose of ripe pear and spice box aromas and flavours that combine citrus, peach and apple quite nicely. It's medium bodied with a nice texture. Pair with lighter fare like chicken Caesar salad or a mess of grilled prawns. (VH)



Domaine de Villemajou Corbières Boutenac 2005
AOC Corbières Boutenac $20.95 (017194)
This is a Bistro-style wine that struts its stuff with food. It's spicy and fruity on the nose while the aromas are cherry, savoury notes and a dash of cola. The flavours are in the ripe dark berry zone and the tannins are perceptible, but not worrying. It's on the rustic side, but that's not a fault, especially when paired to dishes with a little pizzazz, try pasta in a putenesca sauce.


Cuvée du Vatican Chateauneuf-du-Pape 'Reserve Sixtine' 2005
AOC Chateauneuf-du-Pape $56.95 (740639)
This is powerful and profound, yet oozing with class and elegance. The nose is a thing of splendour with its aromatic offering of tar, dark rich ripe berry and garrigue. Full bodied and fully textured, the dense flavours—a gusher of rich and ripe cherry and black currant—are still firmly in the grip of a chewy tannin structure. The exuberant finish portends a long-lived wine. Drink 2014 to 2020. (VH)


Ortas Tradition Rasteau 2006
AOC Côtes du Rhône-Villages Rasteau $15.95 (998716)
Rasteau is one of the warmest sub-appellations in the Côtes du Rhône delivering meaty wines chock-full of flavour. The aromas in this wine are clove, oak and spice while the flavours are a delightful mélange of rich and heady black raspberry, boysenberry and gamey notes. This is medium bodied, medium textured with perceptible tannin. The finish is lengthy and fruity. Pour this into a carafe for three hours before serving with Beef Napoleon. This is well priced. (VH)



A Mano Fiano/Greco 2006
IGT Bianco Puglia $14.95 (060939)
A unique aromatic profile gets you started—lemon-lime soda, savoury notes and exotic spices. On the palate sweet tropical fruit and lychee mingle with citrus and honeyed tree fruit flavours. Medium bodied and nicely textured the finish is lovely and lively—key lime and pineapple. There's good value here. (VH)



Gladiator Primitivo Di Manduria 2004
DOC Puglia $15.95 (023119)
(Previously reviewed in Winecurrent) Opaque, almost black, in the glass this offers up cherry pie filling and red licorice aromas. Sweet red and black berry flavours are nicely balanced off with a generous dollop of zest. This would pour beautifully with lasagna or any tomato-based sauce. (VH)


Antinori 'Badia A Passignano' Chianti Classico Riserva 2003
DOCG Chianti Classico $39.95 (384552)
Full bodied and expressive, this is a top wine from a vaunted producer. Blueberry and spice notes on the nose, this gets into gear on the palate with a lovely expression of fruit and tang, look for red cherry, cranberry and red currant flavours. Balanced and well defined, this is also a candidate for short term cellaring. Pair with chicken cacciatore. (VH)


Castellani Campomaggio Rosso 2003
IGT Toscana $20.95 (072371)
This 'Super Tuscan' is 85% Sangiovese blended with Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. It's round and fleshy on the palate with exuberant aromas and flavours—ripe Bing cherry, black currant and loads of spice. Medium to full bodied with a ripe tannin structure, the finish is redolent of cassis and black licorice. Perfect to cellar short term with optimum drinking now to 2012 or you can pop the cork now and serve beside osso bucco. (VH)


Vignamaggio Castello Di Monna Lisa Chianti Classico Riserva 2003
DOCG Chianti Classico $34.95 (930651)
Vignamaggio is reportedly the birthplace of Michelangelo's Mona Lisa; perhaps a wine like this prompted her smile. The aromas and flavours are intricate and involved, look for leather, dried fruit and floral notes on the nose and rich voluptuous fruit flavours of black currant and black plum on the palate. It's full bodied, nicely textured and offers a lengthy and well balanced finish. It's the entire package. (VH)


Lasorda Chianti 2006
DOCG Chianti $15.95 (074526)
This is a crowd-pleasing patio red that's fruity—ripe rich cherry and sweet berry fruit—very smooth on the delivery and without rough edges. It finishes as it starts, fruity and pleasing. This wine pairs well with gourmet sausage, burgers and BBQ-grilled red meat. And it's pretty good value, too. (VH)


Salcheto Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano 2003
DOCG Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano $28.95 (685180)
Expressive and racy; look for ripe sweet fruit flavours expressing the searing hot vintage plus moderating acidity, a marker for Sangiovese and its clones. It opens with smoke and oak aromas then hits all the high notes with rich and concentrated flavours of cassis, black cherry and notes of creosote. The finish is lengthy, luxurious and adds hints of mocha and spice. (VH)


Le Ragose Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico 2003
DOC Amarone Della Valpolicella $61.95 (700872)
There's a lifted nose of dried fruit, lilac and dark berry fruit while the flavours reflect the very hot '03 vintage—raisin, sweet dark cherry and cassis. The fruit-forward and smoothly textured finish delivers enough zest for balance and ripe tannin for ample structure. Not as complex as some Amarone, it's still a very nice wine. (VH)


Monte Zovo Valpolicella Superiore Ripasso 2004
DOC Valpolicella Superiore Ripasso $18.95 (023523)
Price + quality + taste = bargain in this crowd-pleasing red blend. Concentrated and ripe fruit flavours pour out of this medium-bodied beauty—predominantly spiced black plum and black cherry—gliding along on the creamiest of textures. There are also lovely hints of chocolate and spicy oak notes on the finish. Well balanced and drinking now it pairs well with pasta in an arrabiata sauce.. (VH)



Château Musar 1999
Bekaa Valley $54.95 (708552)
A blend of Cinsault, Carignan and Cabernet Sauvignon, this offers more finesse than flamboyance. The aromas are spice and black plum while the flavours include kirsch liqueur and black currant. Still medium to full bodied and lively, it shows some of the secondary characteristics that were gained from aging on the finish—leather, dried fruit and coffee. It retains good balance and still has at least eight more years of good drinking. (VH)



Sogrape Reserva Douro 2002
DOC Douro $18.95 (335208)
There's a flood of good wine pouring out of the Douro, if you haven't already, catch the wave with this. It's spicy, full bodied and fully textured, delivering robust and heady dark berry fruit flavours and a firm structure via perceptible ripe tannin. There's a ladleful of moderating zest on the finish making it a perfect partner for pasta in a tomato-based sauce. Try lasagna or spaghetti Bolognese. (VH)



Baron De Ley Reserva 2002
DOC Rioja $19.95 (958868)
This 100% Tempranillo 'Wine of the Month' is well focused and well priced. It delivers restrained and elegant flavours of dried fruit and red cherry on a velvet textured frame that's ably supported by oaky nuances, moderating acidity and a supple tannin structure. The lengthy finish adds mocha and pipe tobacco nuances. Aerate/decant for a couple of hours then serve with a rich lamb daube. (VH)




Laughing Stock Vineyards 'Portfolio' 2005
VQA Okanagan Valley $54.95 (71464)
This lovely red 'Bordeaux blend', a Gold Medal winner from the Okanagan's Naramata Bench, vaulted Laughing Stock to near cult status; here's what's causing the stir. It opens with a lifted nose of dark black berry fruit followed by a deliciously smooth mouthful of spice, ripe Bing cherry and black currant flavours. There's a firm structure from ripe fine-grained tannin, deft balance in the fruit/tannin/acidity mix, and a wonderful stream of fruit flavours, especially in the mid-palate and on the warm and lengthy finish. (VH)



L de Lyeth Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
Sonoma County, California $16.95 (61028)
A fine wine at a favourable price; you would do well to pick up a few for BBQ season. Mint and red berry fruit aromas mingle with hints of cedar and coffee on the involved nose. Oodles of well balanced flavours—boysenberry, cassis and spiced black plum to the fore—that are delivered on a creamy smooth texture bolstered by a ripe tannin structure. Pair this with a generous slab of rib eye steak grilled medium rare. (VH)


Loredona Riesling 2006
Monterey County, California $16.95
This is a gorgeous wine in the genre of an Alsace Grand Cru or fine German Spätlese for a fraction the price. Mineral and flint on the nose; it explodes on the palate with wave after delectable wave of sweet ripe peach, alluring spice, ripe pear and citrus flavours. Delivering that wonderful yin and yang, sweet and tang; it's divine on its own or paired with spicy Asian; try Peking Duck or a simple Thai noodle dish. A (2) on the sweetness scale, you won't notice as it's perfectly balanced. (VH)



De Bortoli 'dB Selection' Petite Sirah 2006
South Eastern Australia $14.95 (694802)
Petite Sirah (a.k.a. Durif) is not 'little Syrah' although Syrah is one of its parents. The lifted nose emits alluring spice box and ripe mulberry aromas. There's a big gusher of dense ripe fruit flavours—dark berry, spiced black plum and tangy red cherry—that drench the palate. It's full bodied and incredibly well balanced. Dusty tannins add structure and longevity; drink 2010 to 2017 or after a couple of hours in a carafe. The lengthy finish is fruit forward. Pick up an armful. (VH)



Irony Chardonnay 2005
Napa Valley, California $19.95 (27409)

Cloves, exotic spice and leesy notes waft off the glass of this phenomenally expressive Chard. Fully textured and medium to full bodied, you should expect a creamy-smooth mouthful of peach, nectarine, white grapefruit and spices, predominantly nutmeg and clove. Complex and elegant, the expansive fruit-driven finish lingers. Pair with steamed lobster, pan-seared trout or all manner of veal and poultry. (VH)



Gnarlier Head 'Sommers Vineyard' Old Vine Zinfandel 2005
Dry Creek Valley, California $27.95 (67785)

Dry Creek Valley is Mecca for Zinfandel aficionados. Opaque in the glass, aromas of blueberry, boysenberry and spiced black plum rip from this fully textured, full-bodied and complex Zin. Flavours of Bing cherry, spice box and sweet briary berry are deftly juxtaposed with a good spine of zest and well integrated oak. Great fruit and equally great winemaking coalesced to make this stunning wine. It was difficult to spit. (VH)



Clos La Chance 'Glittering-Throated Emerald' Chardonnay 2005
Central Coast, California $17.95
Unoaked Chardonnay has never been so good. Expect a fully textured, almost creamy stream of wonderful tropical fruit and Granny Smith apple flavours. Medium to full bodied with no malolactic fermentation, this is pure fruit-driven joy. There's good tang for balance and a moderately lengthy finish. The price to quality balance is tipped well in your favour. (VH)



Angove's 'Red Belly Black' Shiraz 2006
South Australia $16.95 (58669)
Eucalyptus, spicy oak and boysenberry jam aromas waft from the glass of this fleshy and full-flavoured red. The up-front fruit flavours, consisting of briary berry and spicy black plum, are ripe juicy and warm (14.5% alcohol). There's also a spine of moderating acidity that's introduced through a tangy red cherry flavour. The texture is silky smooth while the finish is medium length and beautifully balanced. (VH)


De Bortoli 'Deen Vat 9' Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
South Eastern Australia $15.95 (17467)
Spice, mint and ripe dark berry aromas segue to a rich and robust burst of sweet fruit flavours (14.5% alcohol)—predominantly dark ripe cherry and briary berry. There's a generous ladle of moderating zest and perceptible tannins (good drinking 2010 to 2015). The finish is quite dry and will benefit from a three-hour aeration/decant. This is good value wine to start or augment a cellar. (VH)


De Bortoli 'Deen Vat 10' Pinot Noir 2006
South Eastern Australia $15.95 (61622)
A lovely magenta in the glass, this gives off enticing aromas of clove and aromatic bitters. It's very soft and fruit forward; expect strawberry, red cherry and cranberry flavours. The tannins are ripe and barely perceptible while the oak has been judiciously utilized and well integrated. Good balance and a fruity finish make this an enjoyable quaffing wine. (VH)


De Bortoli 'Deen Vat 8' Shiraz 2006
South Eastern Australia $15.95 (621649)
If you're an Aussie Shiraz fan, you'll love this. It has plenty of muscle providing black pepper and dark berry fruit aromas and a generous wave of juicy dark cherry and bramble berry fruit flavours. It's full bodied and fully textured with a lengthy tangy finish - lip-smacking good. Pair this with lamb tenderloins or beef strip loin hot off the barbie. (VH)


De Bortoli 'Noble One' Botrytis Semillon 2004
Riverina, New South Wales $28.95 (917252) 375 mL
This is succulent and unctuous—nectar of the Gods. Steve Webber, 'Gourmet Traveller's 2007 Wine Maker of the Year', made the first 'Noble One' in 1982. Fig, raisin and honeyed tree fruit aromas abound in this glorious dessert wine. Full throttle flavours include marmalade, citrus, honey and spice gliding along on a buttery texture. One of Australia's most decorated wines; it rates 'Outstanding' in Langton's Classification. Pair with pan-seared foie gras or crème brûlée. (VH)


De Bortoli 'Black Noble' Non Vintage
Riverina, New South Wales $36.95 (677104) 375 mL
Unique and delicious, it's fashioned from botrytis-affected (a.k.a. noble rot) Semillon grapes, fermented and fortified (add brandy, bring to 17.5% alcohol) then aged in very old barrels—average age of the wine is eight years. With a portion drawn from each barrel, it resembles the Solera system used for some Sherries. The appearance is dark amber and the aromas and flavours are a delightful cornucopia of dates, prunes, caramel and sweet molasses. Fully textured and silky smooth, serve very well chilled alongside spiced nut loaf or Christmas cake and espresso roast coffee. (VH)


Shingleback 'Red Knot' Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
McLaren Vale, Australia $16.80 (619395)
Here's a round n' ready, go for the gusto Cab from the Davey family who fashioned the Cabernet that won the prestigious 2006 Jimmy Watson Trophy. Copious amounts of briary and dark berry fruit drench the palate while the superb finish layers on spice box and black licorice flavours. It's warm (14% alcohol) with a supple tannin structure and moderating zest throughout. Pair this with grilled bison steaks or rack of lamb. The quality price balance is tipped in your favour. (VH)



Gnarly Head Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
California $16.95 (68924)
This over-delivers on expectations with its rich and robust surge of flavour—sweet black cherry, cassis and spice—that persists in layers and waves. No monochromatic fruit bomb, it offers moderating zest, supple texture and a firm tannin structure, especially on the fruity, warm (14.5% alcohol) and lingering finish. Pair with gourmet burgers or BBQd bratwurst. (VH)


Gnarly Head Chardonnay 2006
California $16.95 (68932)
Look for an expressive nose of vanilla and tropical fruit aromas. These follow through to the delectable ripe pineapple, citrus and melon flavours delivered on a velvet smooth texture. Full bodied and simply delicious; it finishes lengthy and clean. Fruit sourced from Lodi, Monterey and Mendocino provide balance, structure and the perfect pairing with clay-baked chicken or breaded and pan-fried calamari rings. (VH)



Viña Tarapaca 'Reserva' Carmenère 2006
Maipo Valley $12.80 (64436)
Spice and earthy aromas introduce this Bistro-style red. Tangy red berry, cranberry and pomegranate flavours are in abundant supply throughout. It's medium to full bodied, with a nice finish that offers warm and ripe black raspberry, spice and a slight herbaceous note. Pair this with deep dish pizza laden with cheese. (VH)



Babich Sauvignon Blanc 2007
Marlborough $17.30 (620054)
Grassy and herbaceous on the nose, this is fully textured on the palate with oodles of flavour—passion fruit, gooseberry and white grapefruit predominant. Family-owned and run for over ninety years, they've produced a softer-styled wine this vintage with a classic crisp and clean mouth-watering finish. Pair this with shellfish, calamari or a prawn cocktail. (VH)



Colio Estate Chardonnay 2007
VQA Ontario $10.85 (50383)
Crisp and refreshing, look for musky aromas that are nicely intermingled with nuances of fig and melon. This is light to medium bodied, well paced and very well priced. Expect loads of zesty citrus flavours that are nicely supported by a supple texture and a medium length finish that leaves you wanting another glass. A perfect aperitif to get those gastric juices flowing, it also pairs well with mussels in a light cream sauce. (VH)


Colio Estate 'CEV' Pinot Grigio 2007
VQA Lake Erie North Shore $14.85 (503391)
Sporting a bright and zippy new label, you can also expect a bright and zippy wine inside the bottle. There's lots going on here with aromas that are in the peach and tropical fruit zones with hints of mineral and leesy notes. It's medium bodied and well balanced sporting full fruit flavours and a lengthy finish. Sip on its own or pair with Coquille St. Jacques. (VH)


Colio Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2007
VQA Lake Erie North Shore $10.90 (489872)
Very well focused, look for racy acidity and mouth-watering crispness. Mineral and citrus on the nose, this light-bodied white is very clean and refreshing with its white grapefruit and lemon-lime flavours. Perfect for sipping on the patio or poured alongside pan-seared freshwater fish under a squish of lemon. (VH)


Henry of Pelham Cabernet - Merlot 2006
VQA Niagara Peninsula $15.25 (504241)
This carefully bended red totals more than the sum of its parts. The 50% Merlot contributes a lovely fleshy mouth feel and rich dark fruit flavours—the 20% Cabernet Franc and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon add structure, longevity and backbone. You'll discover cherry and herbaceous aromas plus flavours of red cherry and pomegranate that are supported by still-perceptible tannin and a dry lengthy finish. Drink now to 2014 after a two hour aeration/decant. (VH)



Colio Estate 'Signature' Meritage 2002
VQA Lake Erie North Shore $69.35
This is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot, approximately 1/3 each. Winemaker Carlo Negri's pride and joy, it's only released in great years—none since 2002. Cherry, mulberry and oaky aromas form segue to a robust and rich wave of flavours—spiced black plum and Bing cherry to the fore. No jammy fruit bomb, this displays restraint and finesse on its medium-bodied frame. For now it's tightly wound with perceptible tannin with a way to go. Drink 2012 to 2018 with osso bucco. Order direct from Colio Estate Winery. Also available in Colio retail stores across Ontario. (VH)


Colio Estate 'Orchard Blush' 2007
VQA Ontario $8.45
A unique blend of 91% Vallard Noir (a French hybrid) and 9% Pinot Noir, this is just in time for fun in the summer sun. It's an easy going and delightful aperitif when served well chilled. Floral and strawberry aromas lead to sweet flavours of ripe strawberry and cherry. Although a (3) on the sugar scale, the wonderful acidity keeps it balanced and not at all cloying or overly sweet. Pair it with pork that's been crusted with a sweet mustard sauce. Order direct from Colio Estate Winery. (VH)


Flat Rock Cellars Vidal 'Sweet Revenge' Ice Wine 2006
VQA Short Hills Bench $44.95 (672410) 375 mL
This is South African-born wine maker Marlize Beyers' first crack at ice wine and what a triumph it is. Passionate and precise, she patiently coaxed every ounce of pleasure from the fruit. Harvested at a whopping 41 Brix (incredibly sweet grapes) producing 12.6% alcohol, this is well balanced and hugely textured. And, it's full of opulent fruit flavours—honeyed apricot, nectarine and pear plus a spine of racy citrus acidity to keep it lip-smacking good. The finish is lengthy and luxurious. Drink now to 2015 with simply prepared fruit desserts. Order direct from Flat Rock Cellars. (VH)


Mountain Road Red 2003
VQA Ontario $15.95
Winemaker and Renaissance man Steve Koscis is one of Niagara's best kept secrets; he's known primarily to passionate wine-lovers who make the trek to Niagara, pity. There's a mélange of aromas and flavours in this medium-bodied blend with black currant, cherry and toasty spicy vanillin notes among them. The finish is lengthy and zesty with red cherry and red currant flavours galore. Order direct from Mountain Road Wine Company. (VH)


Mountain Road Vidal Ice Wine 1999
VQA Niagara Peninsula $39.95
This gold medal winner provides an amazing taste treat and experience—a quality aged ice wine for less than most current vintages. Look for silky smooth fruit-driven nectar providing aromas of pineapple, truffles and desiccated tree fruit. Sweet ripe and spiced nectarine flavours mingle with pineapple and mango. The finish is lengthy and incredibly (given the sweetness) well balanced; the racy acidity leaves it clean and refreshing and that leaves you wanting more. Order direct from Mountain Road Wine Company. (VH)




Alexander Valley Vineyards Chardonnay 2006
Alexander Valley $12.95 375 mL
Spice box and pit fruit aromas drift off the glass of this full-flavoured medium-bodied Chardonnay. With just a touch of oak for structure and loads of zesty citrus flavours for balance, this is delicious. Full fruit flavours of pineapple and sweet melon are nicely juxtaposed with citrus tang to provide good balance and a refreshing experience. The finish is lengthy and fruit forward. Pair this with Chicken Fricassee. Order direct from Rob Elvy of Small Winemakers Collection at 613.530.0575. (VH)



Domaine Lafond Roc-Epine 2006
AOC Côtes du Rhône $17.15
The highly perfumed nose emits tar and red licorice aromas while this fully flavoured red showers the palate with tangy cherry, sweet cassis and strawberry flavours. It offers deft balance, a lengthy and drying finish (from perceptible tannin) and a clean refreshing finish. An ideal food wine, pair it with spaghetti tomato frittata. Order direct from This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. This email address is being protected from spam bots, you need Javascript enabled to view it in the Ottawa area and Hobbs and Company elsewhere. (VH)

Cheers, Vic


We use the following symbols when rating wines:

	Wines achieving nirvana
	Wines of excellence
	Wines well worth trying
	Wines below average, but drinkable
	Wines better avoided, unless desperate
	Represents a half star
	We both agree —a brilliant wine!
	Drink now and over the next 2 years
	Drink now and over the next 5 years
	Place in cellar