Winecurrent.com delivers a comprehensive and complete review of the Vintages Release wines tasted. No short cuts, no skimping, just honest and complete reviews of the wines that were made available for tasting at the LCBO, earning 3 stars and above, to help you make your selections.

This release begins with a feature on Pinot—Noir, Blanc and Gris/Grigio, followed by a selection of German wines, before settling into the familiar country-region listings.

Other highlights of this Winecurrent Vintages Release include:

• A stunning VQA Gewürtz from Ontario
• Two terrific bargains in Argentina reds
• An Aussie icon producing yet another blockbuster red
• Rhône and lesser known French regions that shine in price and quality

Following the main release, keep reading for these highlights:

• An exciting new concept in fine dining and wine selection
• A 'heads up' on future Vintages Release wines
• Bargains in the LCBO General List section
• An interesting selection of premium wines NOT sold in LCBO retail stores, but available to you through Ontario agents in the new 'Consignment Wines' section
• A special feature on VQA Prince Edward County winery, Rosehall Run

An explanation of the scoring system and icons is included at the end of this newsletter.




Vincent Sauvestre Bourgogne Pinot Noir 2005
AOC Burgundy $15.95 (066456)
Here's good quality inexpensive wine (from a top vintage) allowing you to take a safe trip into the often pricey Burgundy region. It's typical Burgundy—earthy, red berry aromas with flavours in the red currant and cranberry zones with hints of spice and sour cherry. It's medium bodied and nicely structured with good fruit flavours and moderating acidity on a medium-length finish. Pair with lightly herbed/spiced chicken. (VH)


Blason de Bourgogne Beaune Cuvée 2005
AOC Burgundy $25.95 (069526)
Buckets of zest and tang here along with flavours of currant, pomegranate and red cherry. This has nice balance, is light to medium bodied, provides a supple texture and sports a finish that's dripping with red cherry tang along with hints of oak and tobacco. Crispy roasted duck breasts with parboiled and salted asparagus spears finished pan-seared in butter is a match made in heaven. (VH)


Louis Sipp Pinot Noir 2003
AOC Alsace $19.95 (061366)
His name pre-destined him for vinous pursuits and he performs admirably here. The searing hot 2003 vintage shows to good advantage in this light- to medium-bodied Pinot. You'll find a mélange of fruit aromas and flavours—cherry, strawberry, cranberry and black plum. The finish plays out exceptionally well with gorgeous hits of sweet red and black berry fruit and welcomed moderating acidity. (VH)



Malivoire Pinot Noir 2005
VQA Beamsville Bench $32.00 (996777)
Winemaker Shiraz Mottiar (another whose name precluded him pursuing any other line of work) has put together a medium-bodied, firm-textured Pinot with fruit-forward flavours of cranberry, sour cherry and spice box. The lengthy finish adds interesting notes of lemongrass and herbs. Try this alongside BBQd cedar-planked salmon with a side of arugula and baby spinach drizzled with light vinaigrette. (VH)



La Crema Pinot Noir 2006
Russian River Valley, California $44.95 (906404)
Enjoy an explosion of sweet berry fruit on the palate and a generous squirt of tang on the lengthy finish of this medium-bodied red from a producer who never seems to slip up. Ripe and sweet strawberry, black berry and cherry flavours roll over the mid palate. The lengthy and well-balanced finish delivers more of the same along with moderating acidity that keep it dry and refreshing. Delicious. (VH)



Paso Hondo Alta Seleccion Pinot Noir 2007
Bio Bio Valley $14.95 (685925)
Sweet ripe fruit and good value are the markers for this New World-styled wine. Aromas of spice box and cassis segue to this medium-bodied red while the flavours are in the ripe and juicy red and black berry zones. There's enough moderating acidity to provide good balance. The finish is fruit-forward and pleasant. Probably not recognizable as Pinot Noir, it is recognizable as delicious wine at a favourable price. (VH)



Brokenwood Pinot Noir 2006
Beechworth, Victoria $20.95 (020560)
A gorgeous offering worthy of a multiple bottle purchase. Brokenwood, famous for their Hunter Valley 'Graveyard Vineyard' Shiraz (listed in Langton's Classification as 'Outstanding', has added cool-climate Beechworth vineyards to their holdings. Spice and smoky aromas open up this exquisite Pinot while the tangy flavours are a gusher of sour cherry, black currant and pomegranate. Perfectly balanced and sporting a lengthy finish, this dry and fully textured wine is outstanding. (VH)


Red Hill Estate Pinot Noir 2005
Mornington Peninsula, Victoria $20.95 (058073)
This is tightly focused, with very clean and zesty fruit flavours—currant and earthy red cherry to the fore. One might think, at first, it's restrained, but it develops in the glass and is worth the wait. The dry finish is full of zest and tang, as you might expect from this cool climate region, making it a very good pairing with smoked duck breast. (VH)



André Blanck et ses Fils 'Clos Schwendi' Pinot Gris 2006
AOC Alsace $18.95 (686311)
Look for perfumed and lifted aromas of citrus, honeysuckle and pineapple. The texture is velvety smooth while the flavours are a dazzling array of tropical fruit (pineapple, honeydew melon and mango) delivered alongside a lovely spine of citrus tang. There's a lengthy and well-balanced finish that layers on ripe Bosc pear and apple flavours. The price-quality balance is tipped heavily in your favour; pick up six or more. (VH)



Lorendona Pinot Grigio 2006
Monterey, California $16.95 (059188)
There are floral and citrus notes on the nose while the flavours are crisp, clean and in the yellow peach, white grapefruit and lemon-lime zones. It's light bodied and great for summer sipping or matched to mussels steamed in a white wine (this wine) sauce. It delivers good balance and a crisp and refreshing finish. (VH)


Adelsheim Pinot Gris 2006
Willamette Valley, Oregon $23.95 (027524)
(It's Will-a-mitt, damn it) Tree fruit and spice box aromas are followed by multi-layered flavours of green apple, ripe pear and spiced yellow plum. It's medium bodied, fully textured (almost creamy) and delivers deft balance on its lengthy and luxurious finish. Gorgeous sipped on its own, it would also make a fine partner with spiced crab cakes. (VH)



Omaka Springs Pinot Gris 2007
Marlborough, South Island $19.65 (063347)
Aromas and rich flavours of sweet ripe stone fruit and a mélange of tropical fruit flavours are quite dazzling in this medium- to full-bodied effort as they wash over the palate in wave after delicious wave. There are also hints of spice and lemongrass on the mid palate while the finish is dry, clean and refreshing with nuances of spice box and ruby red grapefruit. This is a delicious wine. (VH)



Pannier Blanc de Noirs Brut Cuvée Louis Eugène 1999
AOC Champagne $49.95 (068809)
"My only regret in life is that I did not drink more Champagne." John Maynard Keynes. Avoid this lament—here's a well-priced, well-aged Vintage Champagne with alluring aromas of brioche and honeyed apple. Look for a burst of fine bubbles that provide the medium for a glorious burst of flavours that include pear, pit fruit and citrus. It's medium bodied, fully textured and with enough oomph to pair well with oysters Kirkpatrick. (VH)



Graf V. Schönborn Silvaner Kabinett Trocken 2006
QmP Hallburger Schlossberg, Franken $19.95 (070953)
At one time Silvaner was 'the' grape of Germany, it accounts for only 5% now. Citrus and mineral aromas infuse the nose of this very full textured (think creamy and velvety) dry white. The rich flavours are of pit fruit—white peach and nectarine, and crisp citrus, especially on the lingering finish. Light bodied, clean and refreshing; this is enjoyed best on its own. (VH)


Karl Erbes Riesling Spätlese 2005
QmP Ürziger Würzgarten, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer $19.95 (049866)
Spätlese translates to 'late picked' and it indicates a style of wine from sweet ripe grapes. Fortunately, German Rieslings also have lots of acidity; the wine's not sweet, but rather full of flavour and well balanced. Flavours of peach and pear compote intermingle beautifully with zesty lemon-lime and white grapefruit tang. This well-balanced off-dry effort pairs well with a spicy chicken biryani. (VH)


Reichsgraf Von Kesselstatt Riesling Kabinett 1998
QmP Kaseler Nies'chen, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer $19.95 (940809)
Honey and citrus on the nose this well-aged Riesling also shows a hint of that peculiar aroma (sought after by Riesling fans); variously described as petrol, diesel, or oily rag. Don't fret, it's an aroma, not a flavour or anything tasted in the wine. Look for yellow peach, citrus and honeyed pear flavours that carry through to the lengthy and balanced spice-infused finish on this medium-bodied gem. Good value and great taste here. (VH)


Kruger-Rumpf Riesling Kabinett 2006
QmP Münsterer Pittersberg, Nahe $19.95 (692368)
Earthy, minerally and perfumed aromas of wild white spring lilac waft from the glass of this medium-bodied off-dry white. There's good acidity here that's expressed in lemon and lime flavours. Look also for nuances of white peach and yellow plum and a honeyed sweetness that expresses itself on the lengthy sweet and tang finish. That makes it a candidate for spicy Asian food; pad Thai and Thai green curry shrimp both work well. (VH)



Henry of Pelham Cuvée Catharine Brut
VQA Niagara Peninsula $29.95 (616441)
(Previously reviewed in Winecurrent) ... Brioche and citrus aromas form the lifted nose of this well-balanced and beautifully structured offering. The mousse is vigorous and infused with stone fruit and mineral flavours. Has enough charm to go on its own and enough oomph to pair to lightly seasoned and herbed white meats e.g. chicken and veal. (VH)



Château des Charmes St. Davids Bench Gewürztraminer 2006
VQA St. Davids Bench, Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (453472)
A stunning wine; well-made, well-paced, well-priced. Enticing rosewater, spice and floral notes drift from the glass while the flavours—Muscat-like and zesty—bathe the palate in layer after delicious layer. This is a fully textured and well-focused Gewürtz with firm structure and a lengthy well-balanced spice and citrus finish. Mouth-watering and refreshing; pair it with smoked salmon and cream cheese on a Montréal bagel. (VH)



Firestone Vineyard Select Chardonnay 2006
Central Coast, California $15.95 (651232)
Light on its feet and refreshing, look for generous green apple and tree fruit aromas and flavours along with a ladleful of crispy citrus tang. It's light to medium bodied with a medium-length finish. The oak is very well-integrated and imperceptible. Good to sip or pair with lemon veal. (VH)



Rabid Red 2005
California $17.95 (059303)
Despite the name and distorted graphic on the label, this is a medium-bodied blend that's ready for early consumption with no rough edges and not over-the-top in any manner. Look for pure and pristine flavours of red cherry and raspberry fruit with good acidity. It delivers near perfect balance and a medium-length finish. This pairs well to grilled burgers and gourmet sausage. (VH)



Del Fin Del Mundo Reserva Malbec 2005
Patagonia $12.95 (681197)
Smoky herbaceous aromas introduce this medium-bodied and tightly focused Malbec. Expect zesty flavours of Montmorency cherry and cranberry with an herbaceous edge on the medium-length finish. Pasta in a tomato-based sauce would pair very well, spaghetti bolognese, for instance. (VH)


Michel Torino 'Don David Reserve' Malbec 2006
Cafayate Valley, Salta $12.95 (064998)
You'll see more cool higher-altitude plantings in Chile and elsewhere in response to anticipated global warming that will threaten current warmer sites. Nice aromas and flavours here; look for black currant, zesty red cherry, and touches of vanilla and hazelnut from the oak ageing. It's neatly balanced, medium bodied and has perceptible tannins. Expect a finishing touch of tang with fruit-forward flavours and a hint of tobacco. Aerate/decant for two to three hours before serving. (VH)


Finca Flichman 'Expresiones Reserve' Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
Mendoza $15.95 (017111)
Spiced plum and black pepper on the nose, this provides layers of flavours with boysenberry, Bing cherry and black raspberry up front. It's nuanced on the fruity finish with lovely hints of mint and leather. Well balanced and medium bodied, it's a perennial favourite with winecurrent; the familiar refrain is - go for the gusto with a multiple purchase. (VH)


Pasión 4 Merlot 2006
Uco Valley, Mendoza $11.95 (059287)
The days of $12 Wow! wines are not over. Berry fruit and spice provide the aromatic profile while the flavours are all about super-ripe fruit in the bramble berry and black, juicy ripe cherry zones. These are supported by hints of black licorice and mocha with a long finish that replays all the flavours with flair. Pair with grilled red meat and burgers. It's a crowd pleaser, a fruit bomb, a wine worth more than the price. (VH)


Tomero Malbec 2005
Mendoza $12.75 (057943)
Candied cherry, mineral and tobacco aromas form the perfumed nose of this warm (14% alcohol) and spicy red. Perceptible, but acceptable tannins form the structure while there are crisp fruit flavours galore—pomegranate and cranberry among them. It's a bit short on the finish, but well balanced and food friendly. Go for a slab of smoked and herb-rubbed back ribs. (VH)


Trivento Reserve Syrah/Malbec 2005
Mendoza $12.95 (492702)
Lots of funky aromas, gamey bacon infused with cardamom and tar, for instance. Light to medium bodied, the flavours are in the currant and black berry zones with interesting nuances of spice box. There's lots of acidity on the short, but well-balanced finish. Interesting and worth a look—pair it with the red meats you BBQ for large gatherings at your home. (VH)



Chilensis Reserva Syrah 2005
Maule Valley $11.95 (590745)
Uncomplicated, honest and straightforward, here's an unpretentious red at a good price. Toast and berry notes on the nose lead the way to a medium-bodied, well-balanced Syrah that delivers cherry and red currant flavours throughout. Enough tannins for structure and acidity for balance, it's ready to drink now. Pair with meat-laden pizza or burgers. (VH)



d'Arenberg 'The Galvo Garage' 2004
McLaren Vale/Adelaide Hills, South Australia $26.95 (907584)
From the best vintage in living memory, this is richly textured, full bodied and robustly flavoured. Look for aromas of spice, creosote and cherry and a concentrated gusher of cassis, black currant and mulberry flavours in this 'Bordeaux blend' red. Tightly wound by grippy tannins now, cellar a case of this for splendid drinking 2012 to 2020. 'Galvo Garage' was created by d'Arenberg's co-owner and iconic winemaker Chester Osborne in reference and deference to the 'garagists' winemakers in Bordeaux who vinify parcels of fine wine in garages. If you're starting or augmenting a cellar, or simply wanting to experience an incredible wine, pick up a whack of it. (VH)


Mount Langi 'Ghiran Billi Billi' Shiraz 2004
Victoria $15.95 (719575)
This is a lovely example of a well-balanced and flavourful wine from cool climate (for Australia) Victoria. Enjoy cherry/plum aromas on the nose while flavours of sweet ripe cherry and spiced black plum are carried along on a supple bed of ripe and fine-grained tannins. Medium bodied and nicely textured, the lengthy finish is fruit-forward and balanced. Certainly at a more-than-fair price.


Punt Road Shiraz 2005
Yarra Valley, Victoria $25.95 (059923)
Well-paced and nicely focused, look for a delicious mouthful of Aussie Shiraz that expresses fruit more than the oak and the alcohol. Aromas and flavours in the ripe dark berry and black currant zones are deftly balanced with soft tannins that add structure, and moderating acidity providing balance and a clean dry finish. Pair this with garlicky and herbed lamb tenderloins that were grilled on the barbie. (VH)



Goldwater Chardonnay 2006
Marlborough, South Island $19.95 (991463)
Alluring aromas of tropical fruit (ripe melon and pineapple), and vanilla drift from the glass of this medium-bodied fully textured gem. We too often think Marlborough is all about Sauvignon Blanc—we should re-think that. This is one delicious mouthful of creamy-textured well-balanced (deftly integrated oak and a bracing spine of acidity) flavours—honeyed and caramel apple, citrus, and more ripe tropical fruit. The finish is luxurious and lengthy and the price-quality factor is in your favour. (VH)


Seresin Sauvignon Blanc 2007
Marlborough, South Island $19.95 (735043)
A premium producer, a bench mark region and a terrific vintage coalesced with all the stars aligned to make this stellar wine. Grassy and herbaceous on the nose, this explodes on the palate with a tsunami wave of flavour. Look for (or look out for) a gusher of passion fruit, crisp lemon-lime and white grapefruit flavours that attack the palate and please the senses. All this is delivered on a creamy-textured well-balanced frame that finishes long and very refreshing. Stock up for summer time and fall enjoyment; pour alongside mesculan salad under grilled and crumbled goat cheese. (VH)



Domaine Serge Laloue Sancerre 2006
AOC Sancerre $21.95 (744086)
This very well focused, almost lean, Sauvignon Blanc was made for pairing with goat cheese or shellfish, which is exactly what the locals do. You'll find pit fruit (peach and yellow plum) as well as generous dollops of lemony citrus flavours in this light-bodied effort. Serve well chilled and pair it to baked lemon sole with a goat cheese crust. (VH)



Château Lanessan 1996
AOC Haut-Médoc $35.95 (598011)
The bottle tasted was certainly showing its age (quite orange-brick on the rim) and is a drink-me-now wine. It displays a perfumed nose of floral and spiced plum notes. The texture is very round and smooth while the flavours are in the candied cherry and cassis zones. There's enough crispness for balance and the finish is clean and fruit forward. (VH)



Château Planères Cuvée Prestige 2005
AOC Côtes du Roussillon $14.95 (070748)
Here's a crowd-pleasing bargain that earned its final half star on price. Delicious and lip-smacking good, the aromas are lifted with black cherry and spice to the fore. Flavours of ripe dark bramble berry fruit and spice box coat the palate, while it's all held in check (far from jammy) with a crisp hit of moderating acidity and judicious use of French oak. It's round and ready to go; you only need to get it home from the store before uncorking and enjoying. On its own or with grilled red meat, it's lovely. (VH)



Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe Châteauneuf-du-Pape La Crau 2005
AOC Châteauneuf-du-Pape $67.95 (951475)
'La Crau' refers to the galet stone-strewn plateau where the vines reside, not a single vineyard bottling. All that to say; this is special, an über premium wine from a fabulous vintage. Gorgeous aromas of garrigue, aromatic bitters and cassis emanate from this fully textured cellar dweller. Full bodied and chockfull of rich and robust flavours—kirsch liqueur, black currant, sour cherry and licorice, it's fully textured, and full of tannin, sporting an incredible finish. Drink 2011 to 2020. (VH)


Domaine la Roquète Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2005
AOC Châteauneuf-du-Pape $38.95 (070862)
This winery is owned by the Brunier family who also own Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe (see review above). Sexy, smooth and seductive; you'll revel in the fleshy texture and fruit-driven flavours. Grenache predominant and handled in the same meticulous manner as Télégraphe, look for black ripe cherry, mulberry and spiced black plum flavours that replay on the lengthy finish. Deftly balanced and nicely structured, you can enjoy now to 2012. This is extremely well priced. (VH)


VMV Elite 2004
AOC Côtes du Ventoux $19.95 (071720)
A lifted nose—dark berry fruit, creosote and exotic spice box—open this lovely textured and fully flavoured gem. Black currant, spice and Bing cherry flavours mingle effortlessly with ripe tannins, deftly handled oak and a moderating ladle of zesty tang. Well-balanced and well-priced, it delivers a lengthy and fruity finish. Pair with beef carpaccio with a mustard aioli sauce and fried capers. (VH)



Domaine Rotier Les Gravels 2005
AOC Gaillac $15.95 (065920)
And now for something completely different—take a walk on the wild side with this. It's a polyphony of all you'd like to experience in a wine, just needs a couple of years to knit together. The lifted nose gives off smoked meat, exotic spice and cedar aromas while the flavours fairly burst upon the palate—black ripe juicy berry fruit and spiced mulberry, all wrapped in ripe fine-grained tannins. The finish is lengthy and fruit-forward. Aerate/decant for three hours or open in 2010 and serve with beef daube. (VH)



Château Val Joanis Côtes du Luberon Rosé 2006
AOC Rhône $11.95 (707281)
There's good value in this straightforward and tangy Grenache/Syrah blend. Strawberry and red currant flavours and a great spine of acidity make this a wonderful companion for summer salads with light vinaigrette and a sprinkling of grilled and crumbled goat cheese. It's light bodied with a clean and refreshing finish. (VH)


Domaine des Carteresses Tavel Rosé 2007
AOC Rhône $15.95 (739474)
Tavel is a region that makes only dry rosé, arguably the best in the world, earning the title, "king of the rosé". Nicely textured, medium bodied and very dry, you'll find strawberry, mulberry and spiced black berry aromas along with robust flavours of cranberry and strawberry. It's made predominantly from red grapes and it delivers in spades. A versatile food wine, pair this with all manner of chicken and veal, and artisanal Quèbec chèvre. (VH)



Coldisole Brunello di Montalcino 2003
DOCG Tuscana $59.95 (709584)
From a unique clone—Sangiovese Grosso 'the little dark one'; this Tuscan treasure is rich and robust in flavour and texture. The perfumed nose emits tar, black licorice and smoky aromas while the rich and concentrated flavours that drench the palate include black juicy cherry, spice box and boysenberry. Still in the firm grip of its tannic structure, you'll find near perfect balance, a lengthy finish and ten or more years of enjoyment. Drink 2010 to 2020 with osso bucco. (VH)


Sasyr Sangiovese/Syrah 2005
IGT Toscana $17.95 (068510)
Here's a nifty wine with which to start or augment your cellar without breaking the bank—a big wine with a small price tag. It's a sweet fruit bomb on the palate with cassis and ripe black raspberry flavours. Complemented by moderating acidity and good structure (from still perceptible tannins), you'll find this well balanced, especially after cellaring. Purchase three, trying one in 2010 and the others in two year intervals. (VH)


Tedeschi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2003
DOC Amarone della Valpolicella Classico $44.95 (433417) & 375 mL $24.95 (695395)
(Previously reviewed in Winecurrent) This delivers huge mouthfuls of intense aromas and flavours from a marvelous and meticulous wine making technique--the grapes are dried for four months before being pressed. It's then aged two to three years in barrel and a further six months in bottle. Expect alluring aromas of smoke, aromatic bitters and dried, crushed berry fruit. The flavours are carried along on a super silky frame. They're a marvelous mélange of espresso roast, ripe juicy black cherry, black currant and spice box. Try with hearty stew like osso bucco or at the end of a meal with aged hard cheese. (VH)

Agro de Bazan Contrapunto Albariño 2006
Do Rias Baixas $17.95 (067058)
Spain's answer to Vinho Verde—crisp, fresh and great with seafood—plus added flavour and texture. Expect crisp lemon-lime flavours infused with hints of spice and minerality. Light to medium bodied, it's very focused and extremely clean and refreshing on the zesty finish. Tapas bars from Barcelona to Jerez de la Frontera serve it outdoors with prawns, clams and calamari. Who would know better? (VH)

The Savvy Grapes, Novotel and Featherstone Winery make a dazzling Trio - read more on the winecurrent.com web site.

Lammerschoek Chenin Blanc 2007
WO Swartland, South Africa $18.95 (58206)
This displays elegance and finesse and is not to be passed by. Aromas of honeyed tree fruit and mangos waft from the glass while rich full flavours drench the palate—quince, caramel, honeyed ripe pear and cleansing key lime on the refreshing finish. Medium bodied and fleshy in texture, it pairs well with pan-seared garlic prawns on a bed of baby arugula. A dazzling wine. (VH)



Mossback 'Unoaked' Chardonnay 2006
Russian River Valley, Sonoma County California $21.95 (66688)
This is a stunning wine that delivers a huge mouthful of velvety texture and pure fruit-driven pleasure. Not a splinter of oak, but it still delivers incredible structure along with its aromas of mineral and floral notes and zesty clean flavours of citrus, green apple and pear. It's well balanced and sports a lengthy cleansing finish. Great sipped on its own, it also pairs well with pan-seared Tilapia under a squeeze of fresh lemon. (VH)


Ravenswood 'Old Vines' Zinfandel 2005
Lodi, California $99.00 (63008) 3000 mL
In limited supply—line up before store opening. Gargantuan (4 x 750 mL) in size, it has the flavour profile and structure to match. 'No wimpy wines' is Ravenswood's mantra, so here goes; spice box and black currant jam aromas blast from the glass while the explosion of ripe, black and juicy berry flavours include raspberry and currant supported by cassis and minty notes. The lengthy warm finish (15% alcohol) replays the flavours with a lovely hit of moderating acidity for balance and ripe supple tannins for structure. Mega-sized bottles age more gracefully than the regular-size. (VH)



Matchbook 'Blockhouse' 2004
Dunnigan Hills, California $21.95 (66670)
A unique blend—primarily Syrah and Tempranillo, with a pinch (7% each) of Malbec and Petit Verdot—it's an involved and lovely wine. The perfumed nose offers briary berry and oak aromatics while the juicy, black, ripe flavours include cassis, Bing cherry and vanilla that arrive in waves. The oak's well integrated, the texture creamy and the balance near perfect. The price-quality ratio is skewed heavily in your favour. (VH)


Rodney Strong 'Charlotte's Home' Sauvignon Blanc 2006
Sonoma County, California $18.05 (839712)
Look for a muted nose of spice and floral notes followed by a huge gusher of herbaceous and zesty citrus flavours nicely counterbalanced by hints of honeydew melon, spice and pear flavours. Fruit was sourced from two areas (2/3 Alexander Valley and 1/3 Russian River Valley) capturing the best attributes of both. The texture's quite supple due to 12% barrel fermentation with malolactic fermentation in this portion only—winemaker Rick Sayre is a perfectionist. It's well balanced, well structured with a lengthy clean finish. (VH)



Robert Mondavi Chardonnay 2005
Napa Valley, California $29.95 (258186)
A shimmering straw-gold in the glass; the aromas are tropical fruit (mango and pineapple) with a hint of brioche. Fleshy on the palate, the mouth-watering flavours evolve in the glass—ripe white peach, Granny Smith apple, spiced yellow plum and zesty citrus. It's delivered on a well-structured and focused frame with deft balance and well-integrated oak (80% French oak barrel fermented, mostly old, just 15% new). The delicious flavours and refreshing tang leaves you desirous of more. Good value. (VH)



Robert Mondavi 'Reserve' Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
Napa Valley, California $139.95 (670463)
Mark DeVere, Master of Wine and spokesperson for Mondavi, was in Ontario to conduct this tasting and explained their goal for this wine—elegance, finesse; reflecting place (Napa Valley) with typical varietal characteristics. Opaque and rich-looking, you'll discover mint, ripe dark berry and hints of cassis on the nose. The tannins are fine grained, but perceptible. Beneath them lurks a sophisticated mélange of flavours—mulberry, black currant, licorice and toasty notes that are carried along by a moderating stream of acidity. Near perfect balance and a dry fruit-forward finish portend seriously good drinking 2011 to 2020. (VH)



Miguel Torres 'Salmos' 2005
DOC Priorat $32.00 (60772)
This is a fabulous blend from Priorato, Spain's tiny Catalonian wine region. The perfumed nose offers black plum and dark berry jam aromas. Full bodied and robust, the flavours are incredibly spicy with up front bramble berry and sweet cassis. Beautifully structured, fleshy in texture; it delivers zesty tang along with vanilla and spice from deftly integrated oak. The warm finish is lengthy and luxurious—drinking well now to 2014. (VH)



Rodney Strong 'Chalk Hill' Chardonnay 2006
Sonoma County, California $24.75 (275552)
There's a lifted nose of brioche, toasty oak and vanilla (barrel fermented and aged in French oak) on this creamy-textured rich and robust Chardonnay. Flavours of spice, mineral and citrus are infused with nuances of tropical fruit and yellow plum. Deftly balanced and beautifully structured, it provides a generous mouthful with every sip. The warm finish (13.8% alcohol) is lengthy and luxurious. Drink now to 2012. (VH)



Robert Mondavi Merlot 2004
Napa Valley, California $34.95 (953652)
Rich, robust n' rarin' to go, it's a big mouthful of red wine. Spiced dark, juicy berry fruit with hints of plum compote plus smoke and oak aromas waft from this full-bodied fleshy-textured Merlot. There's loads going on in this complex effort—86% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Malbec, 3% Syrah. Expect ripe tannins, a medium body, ladles of moderating acidity and a lengthy warm sweet fruity finish (15% alcohol). The price-quality ratio is skewed heavily in your favour - a.k.a. pick up a few. (VH)


Rodney Strong 'Alexander Valley' Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
Alexander Valley, Sonoma County, California $33.65 (50427)
Spice, red and black berry fruit and coffee aromas form the involved nose of this gorgeous red. There's a gusher of mouth-filling juicy ripe flavours with Bing cherry, cassis and bramble berry to the fore. It's warm (14.2% alcohol), with nicely integrated oak and full bodied, but ready to drink now and over the next six years. The finish is lengthy and redolent of spicy black plum. (VH)



Presqu'ile de Saint-Tropez 'Carte Noire' Rosé 2004
AOC Côtes de Provence $14.85 (319384)
The brilliant copper salmon-coloured liquid is a stunning visual treat. The blend (90% Grenache-10% Cinsault) is summer in a glass with its fresh, grapey and cherry sherbet aromas. The flavours are full of tang; it's a lovely sipping wine and very food friendly— appetizers of rare beef with fleur de sel on toasts work well. The robust flavours are in the cranberry and red currant zones. It's medium bodied and sports a clean dry finish with a hint of red grapefruit. A Vintages Essentials product - it's always available. (VH)


Alsace Willm 'Réserve' Riesling 2007
AOC Alsace $16.95 (11452)
Mineral and slate aromas segue to this classy Alsatian. You'll experience bracing acidity, in the form of zesty and refreshing citrus flavours that are infused with spice and hints of white peach and apple. Supple velvet-like texture adds to the experience while the finish is lengthy and cleansing—everything a fine dry Riesling should be. This Vintages Essentials product (stocked continuously) is perfectly matched with German sausage and sauerkraut. (VH)



Torres 'Gran Coronas' Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
DO Penedès, Spain $18.95 (36483)
Full bodied and richly textured, look for aromas and flavours in the dark berry and spiced black plum to predominate. Ripe and perceptible tannins provide structure while a lovely moderating stream of acidity provides balance. The finish is lengthy, adding hints of tobacco, vanilla (from French and American oak ageing), and cassis. This is a perennial favourite and Vintages Essentials (always stocked) product. (VH)



dog house 'Patches' Pinot Grigio 2006
California $13.95 (69203)
There's a lot of Pinot Grigio and attention-grabbing 'critter' labels as both are crowding retail wine shelves. This one's worth your attention given the value it provides. Zesty and refreshing; look for flavours of citrus and pineapple with hints of honeyed pear and spice on its light-bodied frame. The finish is nicely balanced and it pairs well with steamed mussels or clams and pan-seared freshwater fish under a drizzle of freshly squeezed lemon. (VH)


Sonoma Vineyards Chardonnay 2006
Sonoma County, California $19.45 (60624)
Tropical fruit and mineral notes form the aromas of this medium- to full-bodied Chard. It delivers a velvety mouthful of pineapple, honeyed pear and melon flavours that replay on the lingering finish. It's fully textured, wisely sealed under screw cap (don't you just love the ease of opening?) and is a lovely wine sipped on its own or when paired with chicken or veal dishes that are lightly herbed or spiced. (VH)


Sonoma Vineyards Merlot 2004
Sonoma County, California $19.45 (60632)
There's good value here. Spiced red berry fruit on the nose, it's medium bodied and full of flavour. Look for a rush of warm (13.8% alcohol) cherry and spiced black plum flavours that wash over the palate in this nicely structured and well-balanced red. Fruit forward with a lovely moderating tang on the lengthy finish, it's a natural with smoked, herb-rubbed and grilled pork back ribs. (VH)


Twin Fin Pinot Grigio 2005
California $12.95 (38323)
The enticing nose shows spice, floral and tree fruit. Unlike many, it also delivers copious amounts of spice and flavour—tropical fruit and peach up front with a zesty bite of lemon zest on the finish. Medium bodied and well balanced; it's great bang for your buck. A friendly wine focused on the hip n' happening crowd, with its 50s convertible and surf-inspired label, it also delivers a pleasing and refreshing liquid treat in the bottle. Great for summer quaffing and for pairing with chicken, veal or fish and shellfish. (VH)



Patriarche Pinot Noir 2006
Vin de Pays d'Oc $9.95 (522649)
Earthy and underbrush aromas open this bistro-styled red—it's ready now for easy drinking with a variety of charcouterie fare. Try smoked meats, ham, soft rind cheeses and a baguette. This shows no hint of tannins; it's smooth and silky on the palate with a pleasant fruity finish, and with enough zest to provide good balance. Chill this slightly—twenty minutes in the refrigerator before serving. (VH)



Rosehall Run 'Sullyzwicker Red' 2006
VQA Prince Edward County $15.95 (69625)
Freshly picked and sliced strawberry aromas open up this built-for-fun red. Well balanced and medium bodied, it's straightforward and uncomplicated—spiced black plum and cherry flavours up front with no perceptible tannins and a food-friendly dollop of moderating acidity. Well-paced and well-priced, give it a go with burgers, pizza, or pasta in a tomato-based sauce. (VH)

Torres 'Coronas' Tempranillo 2005
DO Penedès, Spain $13.05 (29728)
Lots going on here; look for aromas of dark berry fruit and cedar along with rich flavours of black currant, mint and truffles. Only 14% Cabernet Sauvignon, but it certainly added body and structure—the tannins are ripe and supple and it's medium to full bodied. The oak has been deftly integrated (nine months of French and American) and the finish is fruit-driven and well-balanced. A step up from most reds at this price point. (VH)


Torres 'Sangre de Toro' 2006
DO Penedès, Spain $11.65 (6585)
Wisely sealed under screw cap, this popular blend (65% Garnacha / 35% Cariñena) is a certain crowd pleaser, very well priced and a versatile food wine. A lovely magenta in the glass, it provides round, ready and ripe juicy dark fruit flavours—briary berry, black plum and mulberry. It's medium bodied, supple in texture and sports a long fruity finish. This matches well to grilled burgers, pizza and pasta in a red sauce. (VH)

New from Ontario Wineries

Rosehall Run Vineyard and Prince Edward County wine region - exciting happenings — read more on the winecurrent.com web site.

By only buying wine in LCBO retail stores you are missing much of the premium wine being sold in Ontario. These often-exclusive artisanal treasures are sold to wine knowledgeable restaurateurs, sommeliers and the general public. Savvy wine lovers (occasionally dividing a purchase among friends) often purchase them. They are available directly from agents by the case (usually 12 or 24, but sometimes 6 bottles) delivered directly to your door. It's legal, easily transacted, and sanctioned by the LCBO. Contact the agent, using the contact information provided in the Winecurrent review, to order or for more information.



Clairault Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
Margaret River $21.90
This striking blend (85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc, 5% Merlot) saw extended skin maceration then 24 months in French oak. Margaret River produces 1% of Australian wine and 20% of its premium wines, position this among the 20%. Rich and concentrated aromas and flavours—boysenberry, spice-infused bramble berry and minty black cherry, coat the palate in waves. There are ripe fine-grained tannins for structure and ageing potential, and enough zest for good balance. Well-integrated oak and a lengthy balanced warm finish (15% alcohol) portend exquisite drinking now to 2014. The Ontario agent is Hobbs and Company at www.hobbswines.com. (VH)



Mandolin Vintners Chardonnay 2006
California $13.85
Spice box and tropical fruit on the nose, it springs into action once it hits the palate—spiced apple, yellow peach and zesty citrus flavours are right up front. It's light to medium bodied with a pleasing mouth feel and a zippy refreshing finish. Great when sipped on its own as a hunger-inducing aperitif, it also pairs well with shell fish and fish, especially under a drizzle of fresh lemon. The Ontario agent is Small Winemakers Collection at www.smallwinemakers.ca. (VH)


Waterstone Winery Chardonnay 2006
Carneros $23.55
Just a light brush stroke of oak (4 months - French), great balance and a lovely expression of fruit, earn this 'elegance' and 'finesse' descriptors. Notes of mineral, floral and vanilla segue to a creamy-textured medium-bodied rush of expressive fruit flavours—tropical, tree fruit and lemony citrus. The finish is balanced and lengthy, adding another layer of flavours, nectarine and spice. The Ontario agent is Small Winemakers Collection at www.smallwinemakers.ca. (VH)


Z52 Wines 'Truchard Vineyard' Zinfandel
Napa Valley $32.00
No mistaking this as anything but fully textured and full-flavoured Zin—concentrated aromas and flavours of bramble berry jam, cassis and spiced black plum compote drench the palate and senses while the dollop of zesty tang adds balance. Ripe tannins provide structure and ageing potential. The finish is dry, clean and refreshing with red currant and zesty red cherry flavours galore. Well-made - well-priced. The Ontario agent is Small Winemakers Collection at www.smallwinemakers.ca. (VH)



Estampa Viognier-Chardonnay 2006
DO Colchagua Valley $14.30
The price-quality balance is tipped well in your favour with its juicy refreshing mouthful of flavour, creamy texture and zesty finish—all bringing you back for more. Nectarine, lemongrass and spice on the nose, the flavours include white peach and lemon-lime citrus notes. This can be served as an aperitif or beautifully paired with mussels, clams or grilled white fish under a squeeze of fresh lemon. The Ontario agent is Hobbs and Company at www.hobbswines.com. (VH)



Hartenberg Estate Weisser Riesling 2006
WO Stellenbosch $16.90
This Weisser Riesling (common synonym in S.A. for 'genuine' Riesling, distinguishing it from misnamed varieties) delivers a lifted nose of smoky and mineral notes then a terrific gusher of sweet ripe fruit flavours—nectarine and peach with moderating Granny Smith apple and citrus. Medium to full bodied, the texture is pure velvet gliding along on a warm (14% alcohol) bed of tantalizing sweet and sour tang. The glorious finish is lengthy and luxurious. Spicy Asian cuisine is a perfect pairing. The Ontario agent is Hobbs and Company at www.hobbswines.com. (VH)

Cheers, Vic


We use the following symbols when rating wines:

	Wines achieving nirvana
	Wines of excellence
	Wines well worth trying
	Wines below average, but drinkable
	Wines better avoided, unless desperate
	Represents a half star
	We both agree —a brilliant wine!
	Drink now and over the next 2 years
	Drink now and over the next 5 years
	Place in cellar