Vic Harradine (VH) was away for this Vintages release, but he'll be back for the April Vintages tasting and writing reviews for the May releases. Mark Tandan (MT) is your guest reviewer once again. Vic has known Mark for a number of years and is pleased to have him contributing to Winecurrent.

Mark's extensive involvement with wine and wine tasting includes 15 years as a restaurant wine buyer and sommelier. He's garnered multiple awards for his wine programs at a number of culinary establishments. Currently he's the Assistant Coordinator of the Algonquin College Sommelier Program and Instructor for the Advanced Course. His tasting focus is on the ratio between a wine's quality and its price, right in line with Winecurrent's thinking.

This release starts with a 'Southern Exposure' feature, showcasing wines from sunny, hot climates that we've all been dreaming about while digging out of Winter 2008. The main release follows, in the familiar format.

An explanation of the scoring system and icons is included at the end of this newsletter.

Mer Soleil Barrel Fermented Chardonnay 2005
Central Coast $40.95 (958975)
Barrel fermenting a Chardonnay—rather than simply aging the wine in oak—often results in better integration of oak and fruit flavours. Mer Soleil has a stunning track record with the technique, and this wine is no exception. Explosive aromas of ultra ripe pineapple and banana waft from the glass, along with vanilla and toasty oak. Its luscious texture is soft in acidity and quite full in body. Honeyed fruit flavours linger on the palate and the wine is very well balanced. Don't serve too cold—out of the refrigerator for twenty minutes before serving is a valuable rule of thumb for most dry whites. Enjoy this with soft-shelled crab. (MT)


Santa Barbara Winery Chardonnay 2006
Santa Barbara County $17.95 (989152)
A slightly more reserved style than the Mer Soleil above, this Chardonnay is still quintessential California. Yellow apple and pear dominate the aromas, with subtle, well-integrated oak character. This medium-bodied style has fresh acidity and is very well balanced, all helping to contribute to the long finish. Enjoy before dinner with mild cheese, or with Fettuccine Alfredo. (MT)

De Martino 'Single Vineyard' Syrah 2005
DO Colchagua Valley $23.95 (60269)
If you're pleasantly surprised by the value of Chilean wines at the entry level, make sure to try some of their more premium selections as well. This Syrah's big, jammy nose features dark plum and currant notes with a healthy dollop of oak. Blueberry flavours arrive in the mouth, and supple tannins provide solid balance. It's full-bodied and long, and will make your BBQ ribs taste so much better. (MT)


La Mission Reserva Carmenère 2006
DO Central Valley $12.95 (59337)
At the most recent Wines of Chile Awards, Carmenère received more top medals than any other category (including Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay). It's a sure sign that winemakers there are putting their best foot forward with their signature grape. This wine's balanced nose includes red cherry and smoke, with earthy notes and a touch of vanilla. It's juicy, with nice acidity and negligible tannins, showing good balance and length. A tremendous bargain, it won't collect dust on store shelves so stock up before everyone else figures it out. (MT)

Torbreck Woodcutter's Shiraz 2006
Barossa Valley $25.95 (927533)
The Barossa Valley is one hot place, as this ultra-ripe style illustrates. Aromas of very ripe black berry and blueberry are highlighted, with a touch of vanilla and a slightly candied nuance. Classic peppery notes of Shiraz make an appearance on the palate, which is quite full bodied (14.5%). The wine maintains a seam of acidity and soft tannins to provide good balance on its rich frame. It'll overpower all but the richest of dishes, so go for a grilled filet smothered in Gorgonzola. (MT)

Saxenburg Guinea Fowl 2004
WO Stellenbosch $14.95 (694364)
It's not a game bird, it's wine, but the marketing folks want you to remember it. Comprised of Merlot with lesser amounts of Cabernet and Shiraz, this wine offers plenty of dark chocolate on the nose, with black fruits and coffee notes as well. Another full-bodied style (are you sensing a theme in the Southern Exposure feature?), it's soft in structure and maintains good balance between fruit and alcohol. If you like an easy-drinking, rich style of red, load up on this one because there's a lot here for the money. (MT)

There's a revolution raging in the South of France, but it's not political, it's in winemaking. And this is one upheaval pleasing everyone. We're seeing more and more great wines from this region, and they're stunningly good values. The next three wines are opportunities for you to carry the banner, risk-free.


Château de Treviac Corbières 2006
AOC Corbières $14.95 (670505)
A classic Corbières blend of Syrah and Grenache; this wine's spicy nose includes pepper, garrigue, and both red and black berries with a touch of oak. It's another full-bodied wine—boasting 14% alcohol. The flavours linger impressively but it's a touch tannic today, making it a great cellar candidate with an optimum drinking window 2012 to 2016. If you can't wait that long, decant for an hour before serving with rare rack of lamb rubbed in fresh herbs. (MT)


Domaine des Orme Cuvée Azur 2005
AOC Côtes du Roussillon $17.95 (65912)
This wine's intense nose offers up red berries and plum, with spice, earthiness and oak subtleties. It maintains a nice core of acidity while still carrying firm tannins, and although a touch young is still well balanced. It's medium in body, has good length, and will work wonderfully with rare prime rib. (MT)


Perrin & Fils Vinsobres Les Cornuds 2005
AOC Côtes du Rhône-Villages $17.95 (566844)
This is a new appellation for the Perrin family (of Château de Beaucastel fame), but like everything they do, this is classy and quite tasty. It has all the complexity of a well-made Côtes du Rhône: berry fruits, tobacco, garrigue and a splash of vanilla. With moderate acidity and solid tannins, this medium-bodied red could be enjoyed both today and over the next 3 years. Bison striploin, grilled rare, would suit. (MT)

A-Mano Primitivo 2006
IGT Puglia $15.95 (972588)
Primitivo is, genetically, the same grape as Zinfandel, but as with so many other things, the Italians put their own spin on it. It's aromatically similar to a lot of California Zins, namely a fruit-forward nose of blueberries and currants. Yet it also shows lovely earthy, herbal and meaty notes, all signature scents of Italian reds. In the mouth, refreshing acids combine with soft but persistent tannins to create tremendous balance. The flavours linger, but at this price the wine won't. Get to the store early and stock up. Once home, roast up a rack of lamb and enjoy. (MT)

Quinta de Ventozelo LBV Port 1998
DOC Duoro, Portugal $21.95 (660159)
(Previously reviewed in Winecurrent) Now on the cutting edge, after massive investment of millions of Euros, this historically-important house is producing world class product. Intense aromas of chocolate, licorice and dried fruit blast from the glass. The hugely-flavoured nectar is reminiscent of fruit cake spice, Bing cherries and black licorice. This was (full bunch) foot trodden and left unfiltered. Decant and drink with huge chunks of Belgian dark chocolate. Will warm up a cold snowy evening. (VH)


Argüeso Pedro Ximénez Sherry
DO Montilla-Moriles, Spain $17.95 (69559)
Confession time; I love a bargain. Face it - if the wine costs two hundred dollars, you expect great things. What's exciting is a wine that drinks like it costs way, way more than it actually does. This dessert-style sherry has intense, rich aromatics of toffee, caramel, dates and nuts. In the mouth it's wonderfully buttery and creamy with just enough acid for balance, and has superb length. It will be hard to find a better wine for crème brulée, and even harder to find a better deal. (MT)

This opens with a feature on the Megalomaniac Winery of Niagara, then proceeds in order by country.


Megalomaniac 'Narcissist' Riesling 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula $17.95 (67587)
Megalomaniac: a mania for great or grandiose performance (Webster's). This wine delivers, with a very expressive nose of honeyed peaches, tangerine and apricot. It's an off-dry style with brilliant acidity, great balance and a long finish. One might think this was a well-crafted German Riesling, but it's homegrown. A natural with spicy curry dishes. (MT)


Megalomaniac 'Big Mouth' Merlot 2006
VQA Niagara Peninsula $24.95 (67465)
This Big Mouth red is actually quite pretty, with floral and red berry notes on the nose. There's plenty of fruit on the palate, which features a tightly tannic structure. It's medium in body with nice balance and good length, and should match rare roast beef nicely. (MT)


Megalomaniac 'Vainglorious' Cabernet/Merlot 2006
VQA Niagara Peninsula $24.95 (67637)
This Meritage offering features chocolate, toasty oak and berry-fruit aromatics. It carries a pleasant seam of acidity, with moderate tannins that are more subtle than the Merlot (making me think the Merlot was actually more tannic in this vintage). This worthy effort is wonderfully balanced and will highlight a meal of slow-braised beef. (MT)

Mike Weir Sauvignon Blanc 2006
VQA Niagara Peninsula $15.95 (686972)
Mike's wines are a tad sharper than his game right now; maybe his swing will come around in time for the Masters. This Sauvignon is quite herbal for Ontario, with plenty of hay and fresh grass coupled with a ripe-fruit profile of melon and pear. In the mouth there's refreshing acidity, good balance and solid length. Try it with an heirloom tomato salad with goat's cheese. Proceeds from this wine support the Mike Weir Foundation for children. That's my kind of purchase: win-win! (MT)


Peninsula Ridge 'Dubois Vineyard Reserve Inox' Chardonnay 2006
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (56606)
Jean-Pierre Colas, formerly from Chablis and Domaine Laroche fame, is having tremendous success with crafting amazing wines in Niagara. Owner Norm Beale is about as laid-back as it gets and gives Colas free reign and resources to create consistently delicious wines in his new home. This unoaked Chardonnay offers green apple, pear and yeast aromatics with typical Niagara minerality. It's round in the mouth, with softer acids and yet maintains great balance and length. Enjoy with a simple poached chicken breast and thank the stars that Jean-Pierre decided to move to Ontario. (MT)

La Crema Chardonnay 2006
Sonoma Coast $29.95 (962886)
Here we have an attractive nose of pineapple, guava and melon fruits with oak undertones. It's a touch buttery but carries a gentle vein of acidity, and soft barrel tannins contribute further structure. Well balanced and a good example of the style, it'll pair nicely with pork tenderloin. (MT)

Navarro Correas 'Gran Reserva' Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
Mendoza $18.95 (28936)
Abundant black berry and plum fruits coupled with vanilla and chocolate form the aromas here. Very softly structured, it's almost syrupy in the mouth with balance provided by alcohol. It's an attractive New World style of Cabernet Sauvignon, well priced and would best be enjoyed with white cheddar cheese. (MT)

Casa Lapostolle 'Clos Apalta' 2005
DO Colchagua Valley $99.95 (723676)
This Chilean beauty is a real Wow! wine, blending Carmenère with Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, impressing from start to finish. Gorgeous aromatics showcase red plums and black cherries, with pepper, vanilla and coffee notes. The ripe fruit flavours drive the palate, combining with very smooth, lingering tannins. It shows exceptional balance and length, and although pricey it's worth every penny. It's a terrific example of the quality available at the premium end of Chile's winemaking spectrum. (MT)

Penmara Reserve Shiraz 2004
Orange, New South Wales $17.95 (912782)
This Shiraz shows some aromatic finesse, as opposed to simply being a fruit bomb. Red berries and licorice, gentle oak and spice comprise the aromatics. It's medium in body with very soft structure and just enough acidity to maintain balance. From one of Australia's lesser known wine regions, this is well worth a try. No corkscrew required here, just crack the twist top and serve with some mild cheeses. (MT)


Syan Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
Pyrenees, Victoria $26.95 (62430)
On the nose it'll be easy to confuse this wine with Zinfandel: boysenberry, black and blue berries are the focus. Ultra ripe tannins provide balance, and the palate is deliciously smooth and luscious. There's plenty of weight to this rich wine, which will work well with dry-rubbed ribs. (MT)


d'Arenberg 'The Footbolt' Shiraz 2005
McLaren Vale, South Australia $21.95 (984021)
(Previously reviewed in Winecurrent) This is a medium-bodied effort that opens up with a lifted nose of herbs, dark berry fruit and toasty oak. It also offers focused flavours of red cherry and cassis along with a generous dollop of moderating acidity that carries through to the spicy and dry finish. Offering good value, this will shine when paired with red meat dishes in a spicy tomato-based sauce. (VH)

Coopers Creek Merlot 2006
Hawkes Bay $17.95 (672451)
Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir may be driving the New Zealand wine revolution, but all you Winecurrent insiders know that Merlot is quietly making quite the mark on their industry as well. Plentiful red and dark fruits mingle with smoke and toasty oak on the nose. In the mouth, balance is created with good tannic structure. Medium-full in body, it finishes long, and will be great with a simple beef stir-fry. It's very good value and at this price worth grabbing a few. (MT)

Oyster Bay Merlot Rosé 2007
Hawkes Bay $17.95 (56457)
The timing is good for spring, but Rosé is a wine style that should be enjoyed all year. This number is quite aromatic, featuring bright cherry, strawberry and anise notes, reminiscent of a solid Tavel (the French appellation famous for Rosé wines). It's just a touch off dry, carrying medium body and excellent balance, making it supremely versatile at the table. Whether with salmon or chicken, duck or roast beef, this will be sure to impress your dinner guests. (MT)

Blason de Bourgogne Saint-Véran Chardonnay 2006
AOC Saint-Véran $18.95 (16725)
With good concentration on the nose, this wine shows yellow apple and tangerine fruit with a slightly honeyed character. The fruit replays nicely on the palate, which is light, fresh and well balanced. It carries a long finish and will highlight seared sea scallops. (MT)

Château Pipeau St-Émilion Grand Cru 2003
AOC St-Émilion $39.95 (591461)
This wine's robust nose features roast coffee and smoke, with substantial berry compote fruitiness. Firmly textured, it's chewy in the mouth with substantial tannin supported by a full-bodied frame. It could use 3 or 4 years to achieve optimal balance, or could be enjoyed sooner with rare venison. (MT)


Antonin Rodet Chambolle-Musigny 2002
AOC Chambolle-Musigny $51.95 (963504)
Here's yet another example of the allure of Burgundy. This wine has a terrific nose, combining red berries with notes of leather and mushroom. There's plenty of fruit on the palate, and refreshing acidity with soft tannins that create great balance. It's drinking well right now but will develop further for another few years. A classic match when paired with seared duck breast. (MT)


Antonin Rodet Savigny-lès-Beanue Clos de la Chaume Gaufriot 2005
AOC Savigny-lès-Beanue $27.95 (69161)
Mineral, red cherry, sweet spices and subtle earthy notes form the aromas here. In the mouth the red cherry flavours linger, and pair nicely with moderate acids and soft tannins. It's supremely well balanced and medium in body, making it a good choice for duck confit. (MT)

Marchesi di Barolo Barbaresco 2004
DOCG Barbaresco $43.95 (60855)
This is quintessential Nebbiolo (the grape of Barberesco): dried fruit aromatics combine with violet, toasty oak and a truffle nuance. Structurally solid, it has good acidity and firm tannins, meaning it could use a few years to reach its peak. It'll best be appreciated between 2012 and 2018, but could be opened a touch sooner if its dinner partner is very rare red meat. (MT)


Monte Antico Sangiovese/Merlot/Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
IGT Toscana $14.95 (69377)
Here's tremendous value for a well-made Tuscan red. Pleasant plum, cherry and vanilla aromas lead to a palate of vibrant acidity and very fine tannins. It's balanced very nicely and its mid-weight frame will best suit Spaghetti alle Vongolé in a red sauce (if you're not a chef, bring this wine to your favourite BYOB Italian restaurant). MT


Luigi Righetti Valpolicella Classico Superiore Ripasso 2005
DOC Valpolicella Classico Superiore Ripasso $17.95 (575787)
(Previously reviewed in Winecurrent) I wavered between 4 and 4.5 stars and was finally persuaded by the price. This is really very good value-an attractive, dry red that delivers on fruit (pungent cherry, plum, spice and earthiness), texture (tangy) and balance (good). It's weighty enough to handle substantial red meat and game dishes. (RP)


Quintarelli Valpolicella Classico Superioré 1999
DOC Valpolicella $84.95 (986117)
I don't hand out 5 stars easily, but didn't hesitate with this rating. This wine's gorgeous aromas include red and dark plums and berries, kirsch and red licorice. The palate is Amarone-like in intensity, with gobs of rich fruit and a wonderful seam of acidity. Ripe, soft tannins contribute structure and the result is perfect balance and a very long finish. It's hefty in alcohol at 15%, so just serve it alongside some Parmigiano and let the wine shine. (MT)


Remo Farine Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Monte Fante 1998
DOC Amarone della Valpolicella $62.95 (63636)
Two 5-star wines in a row! This 10 year old Amarone is showing signs of age, but only in its development of exceptional complexities. On the nose there's a rich, dried fruit character of golden raisin, fig and prune. A really nice nuttiness and oak nuance gives it nearly a Tawny port character. It's rich in the mouth with velvety tannins and a nice core of acids, creating superb balance. Don't bother with food—there's enough to occupy your senses with this wine all by itself. (MT)

Encostas de Estremoz Touriga Nacional 2004
Alentejano $19.95 (684936)
Here's a $20 wine that drinks as if it costs much more. Rich dark fruits, milk chocolate, mint and vanilla aromas jump out of the glass. It's full-bodied, very rich and smooth with a silky structure and great length. This is a tremendous wine for those who enjoy luscious, softly-textured reds. Enjoy with mild cheeses or chocolate. (MT)

Cheers, Vic and Mark

We use the following symbols when rating wines:

	Wines achieving nirvana
	Wines of excellence
	Wines well worth trying
	Wines below average, but drinkable
	Wines better avoided, unless desperate
	Represents a half star
	We both agree —a brilliant wine!
	Drink now and over the next 2 years
	Drink now and over the next 5 years
	Place in cellar