Vic Harradine (VH) was away for this Vintages release, but he'll be back for the April Vintages release tasting. Mark Tandan (MT) is your guest reviewer. Vic has known Mark for a number of years and is pleased to have him contributing to Winecurrent.

Mark's extensive involvement with wine and wine tasting includes 15 years as a restaurant wine buyer and sommelier. He's garnered multiple awards for his wine programs at a number of culinary establishments. Currently he's the Assistant Coordinator of the Algonquin College Sommelier Program and Instructor for the Advanced Course. His tasting focus is on the ratio between a wine's quality and its price, right in line with Winecurrent's thinking.

This release begins with a feature on 'artisanal' wines, showcasing the personality of each winemaker as much as the individual terroirs from which the wines reign. The release then proceeds with a series of 'organic' wines (a basic tenet being they're produced without any synthetic fertilizers, herbicides or pesticides) followed by the familiar country/region listings.

An explanation of the scoring system and icons is included at the end of this newsletter. 

Quinta do Infantado Ruby Port
Estate Bottled, Portugal $15.95 (979898)
Here's a foot-stomping good time! This Port is made in the traditional method—the grapes are crushed by foot and fermented in open vats. This beauty tastes like a cross between a Tawny and a Late Bottled Vintage style, combining dark fruit and raisiny aromas with a nice chocolate kick. Although quite sweet, it carries some fine tannins which lend beautiful balance. Intensely flavoured, this one will work very nicely with a thick slab of chocolate cheesecake. At this price, grab enough to last through Christmas! (MT)


Madrigal Vineyards Petite Sirah 2003
Napa Valley $19.95 (71803)
Petite Sirah might be best known as a minor blending grape, but in California a few winemakers work with it as a single varietal. The aromas here are quite intense, featuring plum, cassis and a slightly dried fruit character, combined with plenty of oak and some subtle pepper notes. The texture is velvety, with moderate tannins supporting the full-bodied frame. It has good balance and the fruit flavours linger for quite some time. Try it with grilled ribs as soon as the snow has melted from your BBQ. (MT)


Albemarle Simple Red 2004
Virginia $23.94 (61044)
Not many of us think of Virginia when we think of wines from south of the border, but they've been producing it for quite some time. This is a classic Bordeaux blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot. Aromas include black berry, cherry and blueberry fruits with a splash of vanilla. It's beautifully structured, with refreshing acidity and moderate tannins creating great balance. The flavours last and the structure will allow it to be versatile at your table. It'll be best served alongside rack of lamb. (MT)


Shingleback Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
McLaren Vale, South Australia $23.95 (662957)
This wine is a little more complex than many comparably priced Australian Cabernet - based styles. The nose includes plenty of tobacco, with black currant and leathery notes. Structurally, there's good acidity with soft, ripe tannins for balance. Medium bodied and dry, here's a great match for braised lamb shanks in a red wine jus. (MT)


Vincent & Marie Christine Perrin Volnay 'Les Mitans' 2005
AOC 1er Cru Volnay $49.95 (66621)
This Burgundy's nose is very expressive, evoking red and dark berry fruit intermingled with leathery and mushroom tones. It's fairly acidic with firm, young tannins that need a bit of time to settle. Even in its youth it has great presence in the mouth, but will really peak in about 5 to 9 years. If you can wait that long, serve it alongside duck breast, seared rare. (MT)


Jean-Max Roger Sancerre 'Cuvée les Caillottes' 2006
AOC Sancerre $23.95 (65573)
Sauvignon Blanc from Sancerre has always been a personal favourite for its intensity and value. Here we have a terrific nose of citrus fruits and a pleasant grassiness. It's light in body with crisp acid balance. The citrus flavours hang around for quite a while, in a very good way. Enjoy with any manner of herbed chicken or light seafood. (MT)


Dr. Von Bassermann-Jordan Riesling Kabinett 2006
QmP Deidesheimer Paradiesgarten, Pfalz $21.95 (988147)
The distinct advantage savvy wine buyers have with complicated German labels is that most people are intimidated by them. Don't be, just buy some! Such intensity with such a light body is often hard to find in other countries, but a regular occurrence in German wines. Stone fruit (peach, pear), hay and honey aromas jump from the glass. Although 'off dry', it maintains crisp acidity with some lovely tangerine flavours rounding out the long finish. Versatile with all manner of canapés, it'll also work really well with spicy sausage. (MT)


Quintarelli Primofiore 2004
IGT Veneto $56.95 (20867)
This complex wine blends Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara grapes, the usual trio in Valpolicella and Amarone. The expressive nose shows red currant, fig, herbal and oak aromas, with some floral notes, as well. The fruit flavours are very ripe on the palate, with soft acids and very fine tannins yielding a smooth, beautifully balanced wine. This medium-bodied blend has a very long finish, and would best be enjoyed alongside a plate of firm, mild cheeses. (MT)

Emiliana Natura Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
DO Central Valley, Chile $15.95 (61069)
Black currant, mint, dried herbs and spice combine with a touch of toasty oak to form the aromas here. This medium-bodied wine carries firm tannins and a nice core of acidity, giving it a lot of structure and the chance to age for a couple more years. It's showing good balance and has a pleasantly long finish. Enjoy with rare red game meats. (MT)


Emiliana Natura Carmenère 2005
DO Colchagua Valley, Chile $16.95 (56887)
From Chile's signature red grape, this wine opens with chocolate, smoke and toast, but also shows dried herb and black currant aromas (so you can be sure it's a wine and not a burnt chocolate croissant!). Structurally sound, it has very ripe tannins and superb balance, leading to a solid finish. At this price, here's a great chance to enjoy a good example of Chile's signature grape. (MT)


Château Roubia 2005
AOC Minervois, France $12.95 (705362)
Minervois uses similar grapes to its Rhone neighbours (Carignan, Syrah, Mourvèdre and others) in red blends such as this. The aromas here combine bright cherry fruit with earthy notes of forest floor and a touch of minerality. Medium in weight, it has fine structure and is beautifully balanced. It's drinking great now and will easily cellar short term, so don't be shy about clearing a few of these off the shelves and enjoy over the next year or so with mild cheeses. (MT)


San Michele a Torri Chianti Colli Fiorentini 2005
DOCG Chianti, Italy $17.95 (900258)
With plum, dark chocolate and herbal aromas, this easy drinking Chianti will be a crowd pleaser. Typical of the style, there's good acidity, but this wine's very soft tannins make it approachable today. It shows good balance and moderate length on a medium-weight frame. Stick with the basics when it comes to food; pasta in a rich tomato sauce will work to perfection. (MT)


Creekside Estate 'Laura's Blend White' 2006
VQA Niagara Peninsula $17.95 (53553)
Laura's Blend includes Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Viognier, Muscat and Riesling (probably why it's labeled as a proprietary blend rather than by grape type!). Plenty of tree fruits and floral aromas are present, along with a pleasant fresh grapey character. In the mouth, it's medium in body and somewhat low in acidity, yet nicely balanced. This tasty blend makes a nice sipper all on its own, and will also be great with fresh oysters. (MT)


Malivoire Pinot Gris 2006
VQA Beamsville Bench $19.00 (591305)
Highly concentrated aromas of yellow apple, green apple and sweet spice are present on the nose. It's quite acidic, and although a tad unusual for Pinot Gris, this light to medium bodied wine has good length. A splash of acidity with your food match will help to round out this wine's flavours, so I'd go for orange roughy with a melon salsa. (MT)


Black Prince Winery Cabernet Franc Reserve 2006
VQA Ontario $15.95 (68874)
From a Prince Edward County winery, this displays dark and red berries with soft herbal, smoke and mineral nuances. Fairly light in body with moderate acidity and soft tannins, this is a good example of the grape style. Cabernet Franc can be very versatile at the table due to its acidity, softer tannins and lighter body. Try pairing it with game bird, lightly seasoned in thyme and butter. (MT)


Carmela Estates 'Conversation' 2006
VQA Ontario $14.95 (73379)
Another offering from a Prince Edward County winery, and here we have a blend of Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc and Zweigelt. It has a pretty nose of raspberries and red cherries, with some peppery and herbal notes as well. Quite fresh in the mouth, soft tannins appear late in the palate to give it nice balance. Here's a lighter red choice for before dinner, or with spaghetti in a tomato sauce. (MT)


Henry of Pelham Cabernet Franc Icewine 2006
VQA Short Hills Bench $39.95 (200mL) (672402)
For anyone who hasn't tried Cabernet Franc ice wine, this is a glorious opportunity to try this from a premiere producer. Gorgeous aromas include red currants, strawberries and rhubarb with notes of buckwheat honey. The delicious fruit flavours replay on the palate, which has excellent acidity, balance and finishes very long. Serve well chilled on its own, or with strawberry rhubarb pie. (MT)


Opus One 2004
Napa Valley $289.95 (1131) (26310) (583195) (583203); $151.95 (375mL) (26294)
(The LCBO purchased this from multiple vendors, hence the multiple LCBO numbers.) Here's one of California's cult wines, from an original partnership between Robert Mondavi and Baron Philippe de Rothschild. The harmonious aromas show coffee and mocha, toasted oak, cedar and black currants. The flavours are of intensely ripe black fruits, and this Bordeaux blend has good acidity and ripe, gripping tannins. It's well balanced, even now, by all that fruit, but will improve for the next 8 years. This is a great wine with a hefty price. (MT)


Trentadue Old Patch Red 2005
Sonoma County $21.95 (686709)
A blend of Zinfandel (70%) and Petite Sirah (20%) with splashes of Carignan and Syrah, this Old Patch is good stuff. It smells, and drinks, like blueberry pie in a glass - not those frozen versions but the real homemade, farmers' market stuff. Sweet, almost raisiny, fruit flavours appear in the mouth, and although soft in structure, it's full bodied enough to balance the richness of the fruit. Although some will enjoy it on its own, you might pour it alongside braised venison in a wild blueberry jus. (MT)


Concha y Toro 'Don Melchor' Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
DO Puente Alto $59.95 (315176)
Many know Chile as a great producer of entry level wines, but fewer know it produces some ultra premium styles that compete favourably against wines costing much, much more. The Don Melchor Cabernet Sauvignon boasts a huge nose of coffee, cassis, dark plum and toasty oak. With plenty of dark fruits on the palate, it carries good acidity and plentiful, ripe tannins. Full in body and long in finish, it could be enjoyed alongside very rare steak today, but will best be appreciated after 2015 and right through 2025. Do the math, four or five bottles of this or one bottle of another ultra premium wine. (MT)


Concha y Toro Merlot 'Marqués de Casa Concha' 2005
DO Rapel Valley $19.95 (939827)
Here we have great typicity for New World Merlot—red and black berries, some floral aromas, oak and a touch of mint on the nose. Quite soft in the mouth, this easy drinking full-bodied style would be quite nice with firm and smoked cheeses. (MT)


Concha y Toro 'Winemaker's Lot 152' Carmenère 2005
DO Rapel Valley $18.95 (30957)
The nose is a little closed initially, but opens to reveal red cherries and raspberries, vanilla and a smoked game character. Full bodied and luscious in the mouth, it has a juicy palate with good acidity and a very soft tannic structure. Well-made, with fine balance and good length, I'd suggest pairing it with venison stew. (MT)


Dowie Doole Chenin Blanc 2006
McLaren Vale $15.95 (709246)
There are some nice aromatics here of honey, yellow apple, melon and beeswax. Fresh acidity combines with a slightly creamy palate, and this wine is wonderfully balanced and quite long. It's lighter in body and would suit as an aperitif as well as alongside fried calamari. A great effort for a grape that doesn't often achieve success outside of France's Loire Valley, and at this price—stock up. (MT)


Wynns 'Coonawarra Estate' Riesling 2005
Coonawarra, $14.95 (528216)
Once again I'm pleasantly surprised by a great quality Australian Riesling - I suppose I'll learn eventually. Gorgeous aromas of lime and mineral waft from the glass. It's light bodied and quite live, and feels a touch off dry on entry but finishes bone dry on a wave of citrus and acidity. It has great balance and presence, serve it with grilled shrimp marinated in red chilies. Not many wines in this price range will age as long as this one will, so if you want to add some whites to your cellar, load up on this one. (MT)


Heartland Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
Langhorne Creek/Limestone Coast $18.95 (58099)
There's plenty of dark plum and cherry fruit offset by roast coffee and earthy aromas here. In the mouth, juicy acids pair with moderate tannins to create exceptional balance. It's medium to full in body, and would pair wonderfully with cocoa-dusted duck breast. (MT)


Katnook Estate Merlot 2005
Coonawarra $29.95 (718528)
Whereas Merlot is more often seen as a blender in Australia, this effort, from a very consistent producer, is impressive. Typical aromas of red and dark berries intermingle with floral and toasted oak notes. It's soft in the mouth, with a nice seam of acidity for balance, and finishes long and smooth. It's approachable enough to enjoy alone, or with milder cheeses. (MT)


St. Hallett GST Grenache/Shiraz/Touriga 2006
Barossa $23.95 (660910)
This intriguing blend includes Touriga Nacional, one of the premium grapes often found in Port. The attractive nose shows off plum, chocolate and spice with plenty of oak. It's fleshy and round on the palate, well balanced and carries good length. This wine will work nicely with slow-braised lamb shanks. (MT)


Wolf Blass 'Gold Label' Shiraz/Viognier 2005
Adelaide Hills $29.95 (606301)
Here's another Australian wine emulating the Northern Rhône tradition of blending Viognier with Shiraz. This wine pulls it off nicely as the lifted nose offers dark fruits, pepper and smoke, with a touch of menthol. It's medium to full in body with a good core of acidity and nice ripe tannic structure. With great balance, it'll really hit its stride alongside rare rack of lamb. (MT)


Spy Valley Gewürztraminer 2006
Marlborough, South Island $18.95 (032870)
(Previously reviewed in Winecurrent) Gewürztraminer may not be the first grape variety that comes to mind when you think of New Zealand, but this wine is gorgeous. You can expect classic and expressive rosewater and spice aromas from the nose and a fleshy, almost creamy, texture. There are bountiful flavours of tropical fruit. In an off-dry style, it offers that wonderful sweet and tangy sensation on the lengthy finish that allows it to pair perfectly with a variety of spicy Asian cuisine like Pad Thai or butter chicken. (VH)


Morgenhof Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2007
WO Simonsberg-Stellenbosch $12.95 (18507)
South Africa is quietly producing some good quality, good value wines from Sauvignon Blanc. This example is quite grassy on the nose, with gooseberry and lemon fruit, as well. It's medium bodied and quite zesty, with good balance and length. The herbal notes and acidity will make it very versatile with food—try it with fettuccini in a dill cream sauce. (MT)


Cathedral Cellar Shiraz 2003
WO Western Cape $16.95 (561142)
(Previously reviewed in Winecurrent) Muted aromas of smoke and oak set the stage for a medium-bodied flavourful red. Sweet black fruit—raspberry, cherry, currant—abound while the moderating acidity and ripe tannins provide interest, structure and balance. The finish is quite lengthy, layering on gobs of rich flavours with cassis and spiced black cherry to the fore. Lovely on its own, it also pairs well with grilled lamb tenderloins. (VH)


Neethlingshof Shiraz 2003
WO Stellenbosch $20.95 (57273)
From a 300-year-old estate (just outside the town of Stellenbosch) that has previously been honoured as 'South African Wine Producer of the Year', this highly aromatic wine offers black currant, raisin and smoky oak notes. It's very smooth in the mouth, quite full in body and the alcohol balances the ripe fruit flavours nicely. Pour it alongside a bowl of hearty beef stew. (MT)


Laurenz V. Friendly Grüner Veltliner 2006
Niederösterreich $17.95 (66225)
If you haven't jumped on the Grüner Veltliner train yet, this one beckons you aboard. Concentrated aromas include lemon-lime, mineral and a touch of honey. It's light in body with strong acidity and good crisp balance. The long finish replays the mineral aromas from the nose. Grüner is being touted as being as age-worthy as Riesling and as food-friendly as Sauvignon Blanc, and this is a solid example of the style. Try it with seafood risotto in a cream sauce finished with fresh herbs. (MT)


Domaine Fernand Engel Pinot Gris Reserve 2006
AOC Alsace $20.95 (66068)
One really gets a sense of terroir with this wine, with its mineral and hay aromatics combining with more typical citrus and tangerine notes. Its low acidity provides a round, soft feel in the mouth, and it shows good balance and length. This is a very good example of Alsacian Pinot Gris, and I'd suggest pouring it alongside baked Cornish hen. (MT)


Pierre Sparr Gewürztraminer Réserve 2005
AOC Alsace $18.95 (747600)
I'm not a fan, in general, of Gewürztraminer, unless it's paired with the right dish. Here's an exception, where the aromas are balanced and not completely dominated by the flowery component so typical of the grape. The nose offers a harmonious combination of tropical fruit, orange blossom, rose and honey. Ever so slightly off dry, it's well balanced with moderate acids and the primary flavours linger nicely. Gorgeous with smoked salmon, or a spicy hot and sour soup. (MT)


Château de Chaintré Bourgogne Chardonnay 2005
AOC Bourgogne $15.95 (69062)
Burgundy at a bargain—and what a deal this is. There's plenty to occupy your nose here, with aromas of baked apple, cinnamon, vanilla and butter. The palate is quite dry with strong acidity, and although a touch lean, it's well balanced. You're probably tired of turkey, so pour this alongside some steamed crab legs and enjoy. (MT)


L. Tramier & Fils Mâcon-Villages 2006
AOC Mâcon-Villages $17.95 (69112)
The aromas here are of green apple, pear and citrus fruits. This wine is very crisp and lighter in body, a perfect style for those tired of heavily oaked and excessively rich Chardonnays. Try it as an aperitif and it'll wake up your taste buds. (MT)


Château Cossieu-Coutelin 2003
AOC St. Estèphe $32.95 (61697)
This wine's focused aromas combine black fruits, mainly plum, with herbal and pepper notes. Medium full in body, this needs five to ten years for its plentiful tannins to soften. It's attractively priced for an ageable Bordeaux of this calibre, and when it peaks it'll show very nicely with bison strip loin. (MT)


Château Croze de Pys Prestige 2005
AOC Cahors $16.95 (681668)
Cahors is one of the original homes of Malbec, and this example combines it with 20% Merlot. Perfumed aromas of chocolate and ripe plum waft from the glass of this medium-bodied red. It maintains a nice seam of acidity with quite firm, ripe tannins. Give it a few years for the structure to soften then serve it with your favourite grilled red meat. This is a tremendous bargain for anyone hoping to augment their cellar. (MT)


Domain des Sénéchaux Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2005
AOC Châteauneuf-du-Pape $35.95 (677922)
Normally you'd pay this for basic, entry level Châteauneuf-du-Pape, not expecting to reach the higher levels until you've anted up a few more dollars. This wine is an exceptional example of the region at what seems to be a wholesale price. The gorgeous nose is fruit forward with red cherries and black currants combining with cinnamon, violet, oak and menthol notes. It's fleshy and rich in the mouth, with lower acids and substantial, yet very ripe tannins, giving it wonderful balance. The flavours linger forever and you can highlight the wine's complexities with simple aged cheddar cheese. (MT)


Perrin 'Les Sinards' Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2004
AOC Châteauneuf-du-Pape $38.65 (926626) Vintages Essential
(Previously reviewed in Winecurrent) This wonderful wine is a blend of Grenache (70%), Syrah (15%) and Mourvèdre (15%). The flavours are dominated by black fruit and kirsch accompanied by a complex palette than includes tar, smoke and coffee. Right now, it's a fairly rigorous wine, taut and fairly tannic, but still drinkable. Give it two or three years to develop some suppleness and you'll have a real delight to drink with a well-seasoned rack of lamb. (RP)


Tommasi Pinot Grigio Vigneto Le Rosse 2007
IGT delle Venezie $17.95 (910497)
Often Italian Pinot Grigio and Alsacian Pinot Gris are about as similar as Chihuahuas and Pit Bulls, but this wine has many Alsacian characteristics. In addition to the yellow apple and tangerine fruits, there's a lovely floral and subtle earthy complexity to the aroma. It's light in body but carries very ripe fruit flavours, with soft acidity giving it balance and a lightly creamy texture. No need to over-chill this one, 20 minutes in the fridge should do, then serve it with seared scallops. (MT)


Coppi Primitivo Peucetico 2001
DOC Gioia Del Colle $13.95 (724674)
Here's a great example of Italy's version of Zinfandel. The nose is a bit subdued but opens to reveal dried berries, coffee and mineral notes with a faint floral edge. Soft in structure but with enough tannin to balance the fruit, this medium-bodied style has good length and is a nice alternative to the many very alcoholic styles we see from this grape. This is approachable enough to enjoy on its own. At this price, snap up an armful (or two) to enjoy over the next few months. (MT)


Micheletti Guardione 2003
DOC Bolgheri $37.95 (39693)
A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (80%) and Merlot (20%), this wine features a big smoky nose with oak, black currant and meaty undertones. Typical of Italian reds, it maintains a nice seam of acidity with big ripe tannins adding to the structure. It's full bodied and long, and although a bit young, could be opened tonight with rare steak. (MT)

Quinta de Ventozelo Douro Tinto Reserva 2003
DOC Douro $22.95 (21329)
Like many good Portuguese reds, this wine is a blend of the premium grapes used in Port, and this house is a premium Port producer. There's no shortage of aromatics here with red cherry fruit, vanilla and sweet spices alongside a hint of menthol. It hails from a very hot climate, developing low acidity, but big ripe tannins give it nice balance and the fruit flavours linger nicely. This is a natural choice for rare beef filet tonight or braised lamb shanks in another 5 years. (MT)

Cheers, Vic and Mark

We use the following symbols when rating wines:

	Wines achieving nirvana
	Wines of excellence
	Wines well worth trying
	Wines below average, but drinkable
	Wines better avoided, unless desperate
	Represents a half star
	We both agree —a brilliant wine!
	Drink now and over the next 2 years
	Drink now and over the next 5 years
	Place in cellar