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This release begins with a feature on Argentine wines—many of them worthy of a multiple purchase for drinking over the next two or three years—followed by a smaller feature on wines from Portugal. This newsletter then reviews the main release wines in the familiar country and regional format.

Vic tasted through this release on his own as Rod was out of the country. However, Vic and Rod contributed reviews of wines following the main release. Those categories include reviews on wines that will be in future Vintages releases, new releases from Ontario wineries, wines available on a day-to-day basis in the LCBO, a.k.a. General List, and other categories—all wines that are readily available to you.

An explanation of the scoring system and icons is included at the end of this newsletter.

Argentina feature

Argentina: red

**** drink now
Del Fin Del Mundo Newen Pinot Noir 2006
Neuquén, Patagonia $12.85 (055202)
Nothing that's overly 'Pinot Noir' here, however, it's a delicious well-priced red. It opens with a smoky, oaky nose then delivers a silky mouthful of rich red currant flavours on a medium-bodied frame. The finish is medium in length and fruit forward with spice and sweet black cherry to the fore. An enjoyable quaffing wine, it also pairs well with grilled red meats and spicy gourmet sausages. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Saurus Patagonia Select Pinot Noir 2005
San Patricio del Chañar, Neuquén, Patagonia $14.85 (055442)
Mulberry, lilac and earthy notes waft from the glass of this medium-bodied and smoothly textured Pinot. The tannins and oak are imperceptible, but it still manages to deliver substantial oomph and texture. Look for red cherry, cranberry and spiced dark plum flavours on the palate and the lingering finish. There's deft balance, a touch of class and the price to quality ratio is skewed in your favour. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Trapiche Broquel Bonarda 2005
Mendoza $15.85 (055558)
With over 1000 hectares under vine, much of it irrigated by run-off from melting snow of the Andes, Trapiche is a large producer of fine wines, this being one. Lifted aromas of black pepper and black currant are segue to this medium-bodied, fruit forward beauty. There's a mélange of flavours—kirsch liqueur, spice box, black plum and ripe black cherry—on the palate while the lengthy and luxurious finish layers on sweet bramble berry notes. There's good reason to stock up and save for future summer bar b ques. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Weinert Merlot 2003
Mendoza $14.85 (656371)
Lots of spice and oaky notes on the nose, but the oak is certainly well-integrated on the palate. Earthy, forest floor, spiced cherry and black plum flavours fairly gush from the glass while there's a generous helping of racy acidity, as well. The finish is quite lengthy and fruit forward, with mostly red berry flavours. Light to medium bodied, it pairs nicely with pasta in a tomato-based sauce. Lasagna is perfect. (VH)

**** cellar
Finca El Retiro Reserva Especial Tempranillo 2004
Mendoza $14.85 (057216)
A bargain basement red—as in, put this in the basement and drink 2011 to 2015—that opens with cedar, leather and spicy aromatics. You'll love the fruit flavours—racy red currant and cherry, plus cranberry—that are still in the grip of a firm tannic structure that will need time to soften. Even after cellaring it may need a two-hour decant/aeration then a pairing with a generous slab of rare- to medium-rare grilled beef. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Bodegas Catena Zapata Syrah 2005
Mendoza $19.80 (055483)
You may be more familiar with their 'Alamos' banner; this is a step up in price and in quality. Restrained, yet rich and fruit forward, look for charm and deft balance in this medium -bodied gem. Tobacco and cherry aromas form the enticing aromas while the flavours are black cherry, black raspberry and mixed spices. Sweet red berry flavours infuse the lengthy finish and the overall effect is of a charming and well-crafted wine that offers good value. (VH)

**** drink now
Finca El Retiro Syrah 2004
Mendoza $12.85 (928283)
This is a huge crowd pleaser; stock up for this summer and next as this is a pittance to pay for wine of this caliber. Sweet and juicy black cherry and black raspberry flavours abound with a lovely dollop of moderating acidity. Ripe supple tannins add structure and interest in this medium-bodied red. There's a pleasant hint of spiced black plum on the medium-length finish. Serve it with whatever red meat comes off the grill on your patio. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Familia Mayol Cuatro Primos 2003
Mendoza $23.75 (055434)
If this wine holds interest for you, you may want to be there for store opening as only 350 cases were made. Rich and concentrated fig, plum and currant aromas and flavours are present in this impeccably balanced blend along with alluring notes of brioche and kirsch liqueur. There's enough acidity for balance and ample tannins for structure and longevity. Try this with a rich hearty stew like cassoulet or osso bucco. (VH)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Terrazas De Los Andes Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
Mendoza $13.85 (055251)
Straightforward and uncomplicated, look for aromas of red berry fruit, mint and black currant while the palate's treated to rich black raspberry and mulberry flavours. It's deftly balanced with racy acidity and drying tannins on a medium-bodied frame. You could drink it now, after a two-hour decant/aeration, or pour it with a rare to medium-rare grilled strip loin. It'll also benefit from time in the cellar—drinking well from 2011 to 2015. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Saurus Patagonia Select Malbec 2005
San Patricio del Chañar, Neuquén, Patagonia $14.85 (055459)
Bold and boisterous, the lifted nose of cedar, rich dark berry and spice box aromas are portend to this medium- to full-bodied bruiser of a wine. Ripe earthy tannins provide the backbone while the rich and concentrated flavours—raspberry and black currant—gush over the palate. Moderating tanginess and mulberry flavours can be noted on the finish. Pick up a case or more and drink over the next four or five years. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Trapiche Broquel Malbec 2005
Mendoza $15.85 (017210)
Coffee and mocha aromas drift off the glass of this round and ready red from one of Argentina's best known wineries. Simple and straightforward, look for a medium-bodied, well-balanced offering that delivers good value for money with its fruit forward flavours—cherry, currant and blueberry—as well as good balance. The medium length finish seamlessly delivers more of the same, making it a pleasant quaffing wine. (VH)

Portugal feature:

Portugal: red

****1/2 drink or cellar
Palestra Vinho Tinto 2003
DOC Douro $14.85 (059089)
Produced from the same premium grapes that are prized in making Port, this is a gorgeous wine that punches well above its price, earning its final half-star on value. On the nose you'll find dark chocolate and spice box aromas. The rich dark flavours drench the palate with black licorice, currant and spiced black plum to the fore. There's deft balance, good structure, medium body and a lengthy finish. Stop reading and start stocking up. (VH)

**** drink now
Quinta Do Cachão Grande Escolha 2004
DOC Douro $22.75 (064691)
Smoke and oak on the nose, look for racy, sharp and spicy flavours of cranberry, red cherry and red currant beautifully juxtaposed with sweeter fruit from the mid-palate on to the lengthy finish—cherry compote and ripe, dark bramble berry flavours. There are ripe supple tannins for structure and a lovely, almost creamy, texture. I suggest drinking over the next three years, either on its own or with spiced lamb shish kebabs. (VH)

The Main Release

California: red

**** drink or cellar
Blackstone Merlot 2005
$19.80 (606327)
Spice and smoky aromas billow off this magical Merlot. Ripe (but perceptible) tannins for structure, spiced black plum, chocolate and hints of cassis flavours and a perfectly balanced and lengthy finish coalesce in this medium-bodied well priced red. Great quaffing on its own, it's paired perfectly when served with roast beef, horseradish, gravy and garlicky mash. (VH)

**** cellar
Jekel Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
Arroyo Seco, Monterey $16.85 (967893)
Our stronger dollar, versus the greenback, is really taking a positive hold with these wines. There's also a lot going on here so I won't dally - the lifted nose delivers spice and dark berry aromas and the flavours are a glorious cornucopia of ripe fruit—black berry, mulberry, currant—and interesting savoury notes. It achieves good balance with moderating and racy tang coupled with ripe supple tannins. Cellar until 2012 and drink, with a generous slab of grilled beef, until 2016. Difficult to find better California Cab at this price. (VH)

****1/2 cellar
Rabbit Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
Paso Robles $22.75 (049759)
Robust and rich, this cellar dweller deserves a good long look. Oodles of cask aromas—smoke and oak—open the door to this wonderfully textured, medium- to full-bodied blend. The flavours are concentrated sweet, succulent, and focused in the dark berry and sweet liqueur (cassis and kirsch) zones. The drying tannins are still quite grippy and the lengthy finish is fruit forward. There's good oomph and structure, marking this as having an optimum drinking window from 2012 to 2017. (VH)

Chile: white

***1/2 drink now
Viu Manent Reserva Chardonnay 2005
Casablanca Valley $12.95 (048439)
Apple compote and sharp spicy notes open up this light- to medium-bodied and well-priced Chardonnay. You'll find delicate tropical fruit flavours that meld nicely with citrus and green apple flavours on the palate. It's well-balanced, uncomplicated and refreshingly clean on the finish. This is a delightful aperitif wine that's equally delightful served with lightly spiced chicken or veal dishes. (VH)

Chile: red

**** drink or cellar
Pérez Cruz Reserva Syrah 2005
Maipo Valley $24.75 (589812)
(Previously reviewed in Winecurrent) This is a beautiful Syrah with a texture that's plush and velvety. The concentrated flavours are mainly black cherry and berries, with attractive notes of spice, herbs and mint. Medium bodied and dry, it has a balancing seam of acidity that makes it ideal for food. It's a natural for well-seasoned, grilled red meats—you know, the sort of thing they'd eat with it, where it comes from. (RP)

Australia: white

**** drink now
Fifth Leg White Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon/Chardonnay 2005
Western Australia $19.80 (489062)
A popular blend in Australia, it really hit its stride in Margaret River. Spicy and herbal on the nose, this delivers a gigantic gusher of refreshing flavours—lemon-lime, pineapple and softer tropical fruit flavours like honeydew melon and guava. It's medium bodied, well-textured and finishes with a refreshing hit of tanginess. Pair with pan-seared scallops and/or prawns under a drizzle of freshly-squeezed lemon. (VH)

Australia: red

**** drink or cellar
De Bortoli 'Gulf Station' Pinot Noir 2006
Yarra Valley, Victoria $19.80 (015511)
From one of Australia's premium producers; oaky, smoky and black pepper aromas introduce this tangy number. Flavours of black plum, racy red cherry, cranberry and blueberry flavours wash over the palate in waves. The tannins are present, but fairly well integrated. There's more racy cranberry and bright red cherry on the finish that highlight this wine as wonderful partner with smoked duck breast. A candidate for short-term cellaring - drink it by 2012. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Parri Estate Shiraz/Viognier 2005
Southern Fleurieu, South Australia $17.80 (048488)
Only recently has this wine region (formerly wheat fields and grazing land for dairy animals) gained some attention. We benefit from the relative anonymity as it delivers far more than its price might suggest. A very perfumed nose of aromatic bitters and spice open this rich and robust Aussie ripper. Bold mulberry, bramble berry and black plum flavours drench the palate as they carry along moderating acidity and ripe tannins right through the lengthy finish. Pick up an armful and drink now to 2012. (VH)

France: white

**** drink now
Les Vignes Retrouvées Blanc 2005
VDQS Côtes de Saint-Mont $14.85 (525451)
Apple pie spice and savoury (nettles, coriander) aromas form the pungent nose of this beautifully textured, medium-bodied white. Peach and nectarine flavours are nicely balanced with citrus and sharp green apple flavours along with hints of pineapple. There's a lengthy cleansing finish and overall, quite good balance. An appetizer of Tuna ceviche makes a wonderful pairing. (VH)

France: red

**** drink now
Château Bellegrave 2004
AOC Pomerol $44.65 (663823)
This Château has a long history of producing wine that punch above its price and this vintage is no exception. The lifted and somewhat rustic nose offers gamy, toasty and spice box notes while the palate's treated to a mélange of sweet dark berry fruit flavours. It offers good structure from the ripe, but perceptible, tannins (it's predominantly Cabernet Sauvignon), moderating acidity for deft balance and a long racy finish. Pair this with a hearty stew that includes tomatoes. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Château Belle-Vue 2004
AOC Haut-Médoc $31.70 (035592)
Not easy to find quality age-worthy Bordeaux reds at this price point - give it a hard look. There's oodles of sweet ripe black juicy fruit aromas and flavours—currant and cherry—as well as high notes of mocha and mint. You'll discover ripe tannins, a judicious use of well integrated oak and a fruit forward medium-length finish. Drink now with a two-hour decant/aeration and pour with grilled lamb tenderloin. Drinking now to 2015. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Château d'Aiguilhe 2004
AOC Côtes de Castillon $38.70 (671370) (670919)
The smoky, oaky, spicy nose provides segue to a well-priced red that easily out paces its modest pedigree. It provides a very big bang for your buck; stock up. You'll be treated to rich, robust, concentrated flavours of currant, Bing cherry, and hints of tobacco. Deft balance, a lengthy fruit forward finish and ripe tannins glide along on the creamy texture. Good to go now with a three-hour decant/aeration and will drink well until 2015. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Château Ducla 2003
AOC Bordeaux Supérieur $15.85 (162461)
(Previously reviewed in Winecurrent) Toast, oak and smoke greet the fortunate taster of this extremely well-priced Bordeaux red. It offers a well-balanced and well-structured experience with its cherry and red berry flavours that are not jammy, in spite of the blistering heat of the 2003 vintage. Expect ripe fruit flavours to the fore, with enough tannin, deftly handled oak and zest to provide excellent drinking over the medium term - now to 2012. Good value here. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Château de Gourgazaud Réserve 2004
AOC Minervois La Livinière $16.85 (986083)
A perennial favourite of Winecurrent, look for a muted nose of floral and light cherry aromas followed by an explosion of flavours in the mouth. Strikingly rich and sweet dark berry flavours infused with chocolate and coffee explode on the palate and senses. These flavours continue to wash over the lengthy warm finish. It's balanced, nicely textured and offers great value. It's worthy of a multiple purchase for drinking now and on into 2013. (VH)

**** drink now
Les Vignerons du Castelas Côtes du Rhône-Villages "Vieilles Vignes" 2003
AOC Côtes du Rhône-Villages $17.80 (34116)
This is a flavour-packed blend of Syrah (60%), Grenache and Carignan (20% each) that delivers both power and structure. The aromas are fine (almost perfumed) black berries, and they lead to a mouthful of spicy, peppery dark fruit and berries with notes of licorice. Dry with firm tannins and medium bodied, this makes a nice partner for well-seasoned grilled red meats. (RP)

Germany: white

***** drink or cellar
Dr. Pauly-Bergweiler Riesling Kabinett 2006
QmP, Bernkasteler Badstube $21.80 (033407)
Oh, my! This delectable gem, from the most noble of grapes, has it all. Ripe pit fruit, floral and mineral aromas form the lifted nose while the glorious experience in the mouth is all about perfect balance, a divine oily texture and fruit flavours galore—peach, apple pear and apricot, to name a few. Glorious now, it will improve with age. Consume it now with any manner of spicy seafood dish or cellar until 2015 and luxuriate in those aged Riesling flavours and aromas. This has been very much under-priced. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Kruger-Rumpf Riesling Kabinett 2004
QmP, Münsterer Rheinberg $16.85 (991745)
Mineral, spice and enticing floral notes float from the glass of this medium-bodied gorgeous wine. Rich and ripe flavours of peach, melon and marmalade attack the palate followed by a refreshing gusher of red grapefruit and lemony tang. There's good balance and a lengthy clean finish. It's drinking well now and will continue on into 2012. This is a marvelous pairing with steamed mussels Provençal. (VH)

Italy: red

**** drink or cellar
Castello Di Neive Barbaresco 2004
DOCG
Barbaresco $21.80 (674044)
Tight and taut, expect a delightful array of racy red fruit flavours—cranberry and red currant on a medium bodied frame that offers delicate balance and a firm texture. Sure there are tannins, but they don't interfere. This needs food to really show it off and I can't think of anything better than osso bucco served alongside mushroom risotto. Good to drink now with a two-hour decant/aeration and fine to keep into 2015. Good value here. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Farina Valpolicella Classico Superiore Ripasso 2004
DOC Veneto $15.85 (999946)
Easily my favourite of the Valpolicella tasted, it opens with aromas of fig, spice and ripe black cherry. There's a lovely mouthful of flavours including licorice, spiced red plum and assorted dried fruits. The finish sports more of the same with a delightful bite of cranberry. You'll enjoy this on its own, but it'll also pair well with venison, elk or something a bit more accessible like a leg of lamb. (VH)

Upstream on Winecurrent

Vintages release, 26 April 2008

****1/2 drink or cellar
Beringer Pinot Noir 2006
Napa Valley $27.95 (718668)
This lovely Pinot Noir delivers quite intense and complex fruit flavours (red cherry, strawberry) accented with spice and herbs. It strikes just the right note with vibrant acidity, and illustrates winemaker Laurie Hook's point that "the trick is to pick when you have the vibrancy and balance, and don't move on to too 'ripe'." Drawn from the cooler southern areas of the Napa Valley (with a little Sonoma Carneros) and aged in small Burgundy barrels, this is a notable Pinot for the price. Drink it with grilled duck breast. (RP)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Etude 'Carneros Estate' Pinot Noir 2005
Carneros $69.95 (655555)
Etude is a small Sonoma winery that specializes in Pinot Noirs that are impressive across the board. This cuvée from various parcels on the estate ranch is a lovely expression of the variety, with lifted flavours of black cherry, blackcurrant, plum, spice, and clove, hints of black pepper, and an underlying note of minerality. With exquisite balance and long, sweet tannins, this is a great choice for a grilled rack of lamb or for game meats. (RP)

Vintages release, 21 June 2008

****1/2 drink or cellar
Stag's Leap Chardonnay 2006
Napa Valley $34.95
This is a delicious barrel-fermented Napa Chardonnay with well-defined and complex fruit flavours—peach to the fore—with a touch of minerality. The texture is generous and plush, with a rich and broad seam of acidity. Substantial and elegant, it makes an excellent partner to rich poultry and pork dishes. (RP)

Vintages release, 16 August 2008

****1/2 drink or cellar
Beringer Cabernet Sauvignon 2003
Napa Valley $29.95 (552851)
Drawn from several AVAs in the Napa Valley, and aged in 100% new French barrels, this is a gorgeous Cabernet (with support from some Merlot and Cabernet Franc) that delivers on all points. The attractive aromas are all dark fruit and berries with a hint of sweet oak. As for the flavours, they're concentrated red and dark fruit with hints of spice, mint, coffee and chocolate. The supple texture is plush and round with a nice balancing seam of acidity, while the fine, sweet tannins are easily manageable now, and will hold the wine another five or more years. Enjoy this Cabernet with a well-seasoned steak. (RP)

Vintages release 30 August 2008

**** drink or cellar
Beringer Merlot 2005
Napa Valley $29.95 (919647)
About 75% Merlot, 13% Cabernet Sauvignon and a touch of Cabernet Franc (which winemaker Laurie Hook adds to give length), this is a plush red with generous complexity. The flavours are dominated by dark plum and black cherry, but you'll also find notes of dried fruit, spices, herbs and mint. Medium-plus in weight, and dry with sweet and moderate tannins, this is an excellent partner for grilled lamb. (RP)

Vintages release, Fall 2008 (date TBA)

***** drink or cellar
Stag's Leap Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
Napa Valley $54.00
This is a wonderful Cabernet from the very ripe 2004 vintage. All the components work, and they harmonize beautifully. The concentrated fruit is complex and well-structured, with dominant flavours of rich dark fruit and spice, cocoa and chocolate. The texture is smooth and mouth-filling, with some bite from the well-defined line of acidity. It has breadth, length and balance, and the sum of the parts is elegant and classic. It's a natural for well-seasoned red meat dishes. (RP)

New from Ontario wineries

**** drink now
Mountain Road Wine Company Unoaked Chardonnay 2005
VQA Beamsville Bench $15.15
A refreshing Chardonnay with laser-clean fruit from attack to finish. It's predominantly sweet peach and nectarine, with notes of sweet apple, pear and citrus. The fruit and acid are in excellent harmony in this well-made, well-priced wine, and it's ideal for slightly fattier foods, such as chicken, pork or veal in a cream-based sauce. Order from This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.. (RP)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Mountain Road Wine Company Barrel Fermented Chardonnay 2004
VQA Beamsville Bench $16.15
This is a rich, concentrated Chardonnay with a juicy, edgy texture. The fruit is mainly peach, with good parts of bitter lemon and grapefruit, but look for some seams of sweet fruit and caramel and a background note of ground cherry. The decent whack of citrus acidity makes this an excellent food wine, and I suggest you pour this with pan-fried white fish and lemon or with lemon chicken. Order from This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. (RP)

**** drink now
Reif Estate Pinot Noir 2006
VQA Niagara River $14.95
This is unmistakably Pinot Noir in a fairly classic style: light in colour and light-to-medium in body, but with deceptive flavour intensity. It's dominated by tart red cherry with a fine seam of sweetness at the centre. Notes of spice and black pepper add complexity, and an underlying earthiness reminds you of the variety. The acidity makes its presence felt, as it should in a Pinot Noir. Overall, this is well made, well priced, and goes well with grilled duck and lamb. Order from www.reifwinery.com. (RP)

**** drink now
Thirty Bench Riesling 2006
VQA Beamsville Bench $18.00
A delicious, fruity Riesling that's all lemon-lime with hints of peach and tropical fruit deep in the background. Refreshing and crisp in texture, it's just off-dry—just enough to bring out the full ripe flavours in the wine—and the balancing, lime-laden acidity is bright and clean. This is a wine you can happily sip with lightly-spiced appetizers or drink with not-too-spicy Thai dishes. Order from 905 556 1698 or This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. (RP)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Thirty Bench 'Small Lot' Cabernet Franc 2005
VQA Beamsville Bench $35.00
The 'Small Lot' line from Thirty Bench Wine Makers means just that—that only a small batch of each wine was made. In this case, there were only 109 cases, and I suggest you hurry and order yours now. This is a beautiful Cabernet Franc that's full of plush, spicy, complex red and dark fruit flavours. You'll find sweet plum and berries with notes that include pepper, herbs, tobacco and cedar. The balance is excellent, the texture is rich and full, the tannins are ripe and gripping. In all, a terrific Cabernet Franc that's ready to drink now if you like, but best held two or three years. Order from 905 556 1698 or This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. (RP)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Thirty Bench 'Benchmark' Red 2005
VQA Beamsville Bench $60
This is a wine with authority, one that speaks with boldness and subtlety, a Bordeaux blend that's stepped definitively into the New World but has retained much of the nuanced character usually associated with the Old. More specifically, this is a rich, concentrated red, dominated by flavours of dark cherry, plum and berries, with an array of accents that include spice, chocolate, tobacco, and oak spices. It has a plush, generous and edgy texture, good grip from the ripe tannins, and a long spicy finish. I'd suggest holding it for a year and drinking from winter 2009-10. This is a good price for a wine of this quality, but only 226 cases were made. Order from 905 556 1698 or This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. (RP)

New in the LCBO

Australia

***1/2 drink now
Hardy's 'Nottage Hill' Chardonnay 2006
South Eastern Australia $11.00 (283457)
An alluring nose of vanilla and sweet honeydew melon opens this medium-bodied and well-balanced white. Sweet pit fruit (peach and nectarine) and generous citrus acidity provide a delicious mouthful of tangy and refreshing flavours. There's solid value and versatility as it pairs well with chicken and veal dishes as well as grilled or poached fish. (VH)

*** drink now
Hardy's 'Nottage Hill' Shiraz 2005
South Eastern Australia $13.00 (375964)
This Ottawa Wine and Food Show medal-winner offers interesting aromas of spice and aromatic bitters. There's a healthy dollop of rich sweet berry fruit flavours moderated by good acidity. The supple tannins add complexity while the fruit forward finish—spiced cherry and black plum—is medium in length. Straightforward and offering fair value, it pairs well with grilled red meat. (VH)

France

*** drink now
Pisse-Dru Beaujolais Blanc 2005
AOC Beaujolais $11.85 (276865)
The apple and pear aromatics flesh out in the palate to crisp green apple and honeyed-pear flavours. This is light bodied and dry, layering on some citrussy notes on the medium-length finish. Nothing flashy, but still offering fair value and a balanced white wine that pairs well with lighter fare, like chicken and veal. (VH)

Ontario

***1/2 drink now
20 Bees 'Growers' White' 2005
*Product of Canada $12.15 (49635) 1 Litre Tetra
*This is produced from 100% Ontario grapes. It does not earn VQA status as regulations stipulate all wine must be in glass bottles. Distinctive honey and floral aromas abound in this light-bodied blend. A mélange of flavours wash over the palate with apple, peach and pear to the fore. You'll enjoy a crisp and refreshing finish that's infused with a delightful citrussy tanginess that marks this as an enjoyable aperitif wine or the perfect foil to grilled freshwater fish under a squirt of lemon. (VH)

South Africa

**** drink now
Robertson Winery Shiraz 2006
WO Robertson $12.15 (610949)
Dark cherry and smoky aromas emanate from this delicious medium-bodied red. The flavours are all about sweet and rich dark berry fruit—mulberry, cherry and bramble berry—bolstered by moderating acidity that reveals itself as a tangy red cherry flavour on the finish. There's good complexity—60% of the fruit was exposed to 6 months of French oak—and, overall, it achieves good balance and offers very good value. (VH)

**** drink now
Ubuntu Shiraz 2006
WO Western Cape $9.90 (665281)
Round, ready and raring to go, this offers very good value, earning its final half-star on price. Cedar, spice and dark berry fruit aromas on the nose, the flavours are in the black juicy cherry and sweet black currant zones. The finish is admirable—the warm sweet (14.5% alcohol) lingering dark fruit flavours are nicely balanced off with a spoonful of moderating tang and the slightest hint of drying tannins and smoky notes. (VH)

Spain

***1/2 drink now
Red Guitar Old Vines Tempranillo/Garnacha 2005
Navarra $12.75 (54007)
A relatively new wine in the LCBO, this blend is full-flavoured, dry and smooth-textured. Look for concentrated flavours of sweet black fruit and berries with notes of spice. This is a versatile wine that goes as well with pizza as steak. (RP)

New in Restaurants

***** drink or cellar
Charles Baker 'Picone Vineyard' Riesling 2006
VQA Vinemount Ridge, Ontario $35.00
This stunning wine is an absolute 'must-buy' for Riesling lovers. Charles Baker, ex-Cave Spring Cellars, sourced the grapes from Chef Mark Picone, ex-Vineland Estates and had it made by wine maker J. L. Groux, ex-Hillebrand Estates. An ex-rated wine? Yes, ex-cellent. Full bodied and fully textured, it drenches the palate with a dazzling array of fruit—white peach, citrus and yellow plum—and a vigorous attack of zingy acidity that's brilliantly balanced with 24g of residual sugar. It creates that yin and yang of sweet and tart that pairs so well with spicy Asian cuisine. This will come into its own late 2008 and will continue to drink well for another five or more years. Order from www.charlesbaker.ca for home delivery or pick some up at Stratus Winery. (VH)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Gian Piero Marrone Barbera D'Alba 2003
DOC Barbera D'Alba, Italy $23.95
The light and lively bright red colour carries through to the weight and texture of this light- to medium-bodied red. Racy and spicy, it delivers copious amounts of sour cherry and spiced black plum flavours. There's enough tannin here to allow it to pair well with a spicy meat dish in a tomato-based sauce like spaghetti Bolognese. Order this by the 12 bottle case for home delivery from Carlo at www.mamasboywines.com. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Gian Piero Marrone 'San Carlo' Langhe Rosso 2001
DOC Langhe Rosso $38.95
Named for grandfather Carlo, this blend (70% Nebbiolo, 20% Barbera, 10% Dolcetto) is the 'family wine', crafted with loving care and attention. Violet and currant aromas form the lifted nose of this medium-bodied and well-balanced N. Italian red. The texture is bolstered by firm tannins and deep, rich concentrated fruit in the cherry and dark berry zones. The finish is glorious and fruit forward. Order this for home delivery by the case (min. 6 bottles) from Carlo at www.mamasboywines.com. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Podere Brizio Brunello di Montalcino 2001
DOCG Brunello di Montalcino, Italy $70.00
Alluring floral and spice aromas drift off the glass of this gorgeous full-bodied Brunello from the famed Montalcino area of Tuscany. Fully flavoured—mulberry, cassis and sour cherry—it's also well-supported by ripe tannins. The 24 months in new French oak added structure and texture; this truly shines when paired with food. Bruschetta with crumbled grilled goat cheese is a perfect partner. Order this by the 12 bottle case for home delivery from Carlo at www.mamasboywines.com. (VH)

**** drink now
Podere Scurtarola Vermentino Bianco 2004
IGT Toscana $31.95
And now for something completely different; here's a white wine with a supple tannic structure. Vermentino is the grape and this wine was fermented on the skins rather than having the juice separated from the skins before fermentation. The result is a full-bodied, fully-textured white that exhibits a lifted nose of white flowers and mineral notes while the racy tangy flavours of citrus, spice and hints of oak burst upon the palate. Unusual and delicious. Order this for home delivery by the case (min. 6 bottles) from Carlo at www.mamasboywines.com. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Poggio Torselli Chianti Classico 2004
DOCG Chianti Classico $22.00
This is a gorgeous red (85% Sangiovese / 15% Cabernet Sauvignon) that is full bodied, rich and bold. The Cab was aged in new French oak, adding oaky aromas and a firm tannin structure. There are touches of cassis and mint flavours, also from the Cab, while the Sangiovese contribution is textbook—tangy spicy cherry flavours. More new world than old, it's delicious now after a two-hour decant/aeration or paired with grilled rare red meat. It will drink well into 2012. Order this by the 12 bottle case for home delivery from Carlo at www.mamasboywines.com. (VH)

**** drink now
Stratus 'Wild Ass' Red 2004
VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario $19.00
The undisclosed blend alters each vintage. In this '04 it offers a delicious medium-bodied red that's round and ready for early drinking. Look for dark cherry and black currant aromas that replay in the flavours on the palate. You'll also detect notes of cassis and dark chocolate flavours. There's enough tannin for structure and enough moderating tanginess for balance. This will please those seeking a smooth and silky red, especially when paired with roast pork or roast chicken. Order this for home delivery by the case (min. 6 bottles) from Carlo at www.mamasboywines.com. (VH)

**** drink now
Stratus 'Wild Ass' Riesling 2006
VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario $19.00
Rosewater and floral aromatics bound from the glass of this medium-bodied gem. Suppleand fleshy on the palate, the flavours are quite vivid and in the tropical fruit zone, with honeydew melon to the fore. The finish is lengthy and luxurious with amazing balance between the bracing acidity and residual sugar—easily measuring-up to a fine Alsatian Riesling. Order this for home delivery by the case (min. 6 bottles) from Carlo at www.mamasboywines.com. (VH)

**** drink now
Stratus 'Wild Ass' White 2004
VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario $19.00
You'll find an unlikely-assortment of five grape varieties here that fit together beautifully, like pieces of a puzzle. The lifted aromas of musk melon and floral notes follow through seamlessly to the creamily-textured flavours of tropical fruit—melon and pineapple. The finish is dry and clean with notes of citrus and vanilla. Chicken Kiev is a lovely match here. Order this by the case (min. 6 bottles) for home delivery from Carlo at www.mamasboywines.com. (VH)

**** drink now
Tenuta Roccaccia Bianco di Pitigliano 2006
DOC Bianco di Pitigliano, Italy $13.95
This white blend (80% Trebbiano / 20% Chardonnay) from Tuscany offers perfumed floral and pit fruit aromas. It also delivers a delicious mouthful of racy citrus, peach and nectarine flavours on its medium-bodied frame. The finish is clean and refreshing with a lemon-lime bite that makes it a perfect partner with shellfish - mussels steamed in white wine, garlic and leeks, for instance. Order this by the 12 bottle case for home delivery from Carlo at www.mamasboywines.com. (VH)

Cheers, Vic and Rod

Rating System

We use the following symbols when rating wines:

5 starsWines achieving nirvana
4 stars Wines of excellence
3 stars Wines well worth trying
2  stars Wines below average, but drinkable
1 star Wines better avoided, unless desperate
half star Represents a half star
2 glassesWe both agree —a brilliant wine!
drink nowDrink now and over the next 2 years
drink or cellarDrink now and over the next 5 years
cellarPlace in cellar