With only one Vintages release scheduled for December, you'll find this a lengthy one providing many outstanding wines for your consideration. However, be prepared for much higher priced offerings than those seen on average.

The catalogue and the release begins with a series of headings that first features Champagne and Sparkling wines - Fab Fizz, then Niagara's Stars—wines from Ontario, followed by world famous dry reds and whites - The Icons. After these, you'll find the main release.

We wish you and your loved ones the very best wishes for a safe and enjoyable holiday season.

An explanation of the scoring system and icons is included at the end of this newsletter. 

Bollinger La Grande Année Brut Champagne 1999
AOC Champagne $148.95 (145169)
Bollinger is one of the few Champagne houses to age their wine in oak barrels, although virtually inert as they're very old barrels that are caked with tartaric acid. This 1999 is just beginning to hit its stride with the formation of nutty and toasty aromas and a lovely attack of citrus, yellow peach along with some nutty and biscuity flavours. It's medium to full bodied with a lovely texture and racy finish. Better 2012 to 2025


Pol Roger Extra Cuvée de Réserve Brut Champagne 1998
AOC Champagne $79.95 (989137)
(Previously reviewed in Winecurrent in 2006, it's risen five dollars since) Buttered toast and lemon lime aromatics are the precursor to this medium to full-bodied vintage white. This has lots of heft with white peach, lemon and mineral flavours that seamlessly integrate into the long clean finish. A persistent stream of small bubbles give rise to the notion this is very well made and will continue to please now to 2010. (VH)


Lanson Black Label Brut Champagne
AOC Champagne $44.95 (041889)
(Previously reviewed in Winecurrent) You'll revel in the tantalizing aromas of toast and honeyed flower blossoms. A surge of bracing and zesty tang fills your mouth followed by full fruit flavours of green apple and ripe pear. The bubbles in your glass are small and persistent, a hallmark of well-made Champagne. This has the body and structure to match nicely with seafood appetizers. Pair it with prawns, sushi rolls or smoked salmon. (VH)


Bollinger Special Cuvée Brut Champagne
AOC Champagne $67.95 (384529)
(Previously reviewed in Winecurrent) Bollinger is often placed on a pedestal as one of the best 3 or 4 Champagnes available. Purchase this to discover why. The exact blend is always over half (approximately 60%) Pinot Noir with lesser amounts of Chardonnay and Pinot Meunière. This accounts for the full-bodied and beautifully-textured house style. Expect a vigorous mousse attack - not with antlers, but rather the tingly effect when the bubbles hit your palate - a harbinger of brioche, citrus and green apple flavours. Sports a gorgeous finish with enough oomph for white meat dishes - veal or chicken. (VH)



Laurent-Perrier Cuvée Rosé Brut Champagne
AOC Champagne $89.95 (158550)
(Previously reviewed in Winecurrent) A unique Champagne rosé that is not a blend of white and red wine; this is 100% Pinot Noir produced by the painstaking saignée method. All grapes were sourced from the finest (rated 100%) vineyards. Intriguing aromas of strawberry and dried cranberry form the nose while the attack is a medium-bodied mouthful of fresh red fruit and tangy notes. A serious bubbly that would stand proudly beside your turkey with all the fixings. (VH)



Henry of Pelham Cuvée Catharine Brut
VQA Niagara Peninsula $29.95 (616441)
(Previously reviewed in Winecurrent) This earns my vote as the top sparkling wine in this release. Brioche and citrussy aromas form the lifted nose of this well-balanced and beautifully structured offering. The mousse is vigorous and infused with stone fruit and mineral flavours. Has enough charm to go on its own and enough oomph to pair to lightly seasoned and herbed white meats e.g. chicken and veal. (VH)



Stratus Cabernet Franc 2004
VQA Niagara Peninsula $36.00 (665034)
Medium bodied, and full of flavour, this gorgeous red is also racy with acidity and still firmly in the grip of drying tannins. There's an abundance of rich and racy Montmorency cherry fruit in this well structured and well balanced offering. You can drink it now with pasta in a tomato-based sauce, but I'd suggest letting it smooth out a bit and enjoying it 2010 to 2014. (VH)


Flat Rock Cellars 'Gravity' Pinot Noir 2005
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $29.95 (056838)
The highly perfumed and gorgeous nose offers up black berry fruit with spice box and toasty undertones. The robust and extremely well balanced flavours include black currant, bramble berry and sour cherry. There's deft balance, judicious use and perfect integration of oak, and a restrained sense of elegance that makes this special. The lengthy finish is a replay of the above flavours with hints of mushroom. Pair this with your holiday season bird. (VH)


Malivoire Moira Vineyard Pinot Noir 2004
VQA Niagara Peninsula $41.80 (730754)
Racy and taut, look for expressive aromas of spice box and crushed dried berry fruit that segue you to a lovely burst of ripe fruit flavours that are in the cranberry and red currant zones. The tannins are ripe, the balance is perfect and the finish layers on ripe cherry and red licorice flavours. This pairs perfectly with roast fowl accompanied by cranberry sauce. (VH)


Le Clos Jordanne 'Claystone Terrace' Pinot Noir 2005
VQA Niagara Peninsula $34.95 (033951)
This is an enjoyable red from the joint venture involving Vincor and Boisset; a partnership that receives a great deal of press. The nose is all about sweet fruity aromas, redolent of cassis. There is abundant acidity and tannins at the moment, making it a candidate for drinking 2010 to 2015. The wine shows good fruit flavour with red cherry to the fore. (VH)


Cave Spring CSV Riesling 2005
VQA Niagara Peninsula $29.95 (566026)
A mélange of aromas and flavours jump from this absolutely knock-out gorgeous Riesling. There's mineral, slate, citrus, green apple and honeycomb among them. Deftly balanced between vibrant tanginess and sweet fruit sugar on the palate, it also offers a lengthy warm finish that showcases the delightful yin and yang of bracing acidity and sweet ripe fruit. This cries out for a spicy Thai dish like green curry chicken. (VH)


Tawse 'Beamsville Bench Reserve' Chardonnay 2004
VQA Niagara Peninsula $42.20 (662858)
There's a lot going on in this medium- to full-bodied gem from one of the newer and more spectacular Niagara wineries. Expressive aromas of smoke, tropical fruit and vanilla open the door to a cornucopia of flavours that include peach and nectarine. The texture's creamy and the finish is lengthy and fruit forward. Pricey, but it's still good value given the quality. This would easily pair with your holiday bird and all the fixings. (VH)



Domaine du Pavillon 2004
AOC Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, Burgundy, France $134.95 (046698)
My first experience drinking a well-aged white Burgundy was a Corton-Charlemagne. I can still taste it, and despite the price, I recommend purchasing this and laying it down for an additional ten or twelve years for your equally memorable experience. You should then expect to taste nutty and honeyed flavours intermingled with apple compote and a racy clean finish that's quite unlike any white wine that's not well aged and well made and not from one of the prime sub-appellations in the world. (VH)


Landmark Overlook Chardonnay 2005
Sonoma, Santa Barbara and Monterey County's, California $38.95 (356501)
Smoke and oak aromas blow off the glass of this medium- to full-bodied Chardonnay. Pronounced and vivid flavours of green apple, racy citrus and spice box attack the palate while the exceptionally-long finish adds some interesting ripe fruit flavours of white peach and nectarine. It's quite buttery and creamy in texture. This is drinking well now and will develop into a more balanced wine over the next five years. It offers good value. (VH)


Zind-Humbrecht Herrenweg de Turckheim Gewürztraminer 2005
AOC Alsace, France $43.95 (993352)
A gargantuan wine, including a whopping 15% alcohol level, it offers an expressive nose of rosewater, lychee fruit and mixed spice. The fully-flavoured and full-bodied attack on the palate and senses is quite memorable—red grapefruit, lemon and lime, lychee and an abundance of spices. The sweet and racy finish provides that glorious experience that pairs so well with spicy Asian cuisine. This is about as good as it gets for Alsatian Gewürztraminer below Grand Cru status. (VH)


Wegeler Riesling Spätlese 2004
QmP, Rüdesheimer Berg Rottland, Germany $29.95 (918771)
Gorgeous slate, mineral and floral notes waft off the glass of this medium-bodied Spätlese (a.k.a. late harvest) Riesling. The flavours are robust and sweet; pineapple, other tropical fruit and apple among them, then delivered on a creamy textured and well balanced frame. There's an additional sweet ripe Bosc pear flavour on the finish. Serve well chilled as an aperitif or alongside chicken tikka masala (butter chicken) and garlic Nan. (VH)


Caymus Special Selection Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
Napa Valley, California $156.95 (711663)
Opaque in the glass, this has it all. Rich, ripe and round flavours of bramble berry and cassis are ably supported by an aromatic explosion of cherry, currant and chocolate. Full bodied and beautifully-textured, it delivers wave after wave of hedonistic pleasure. The finish, as one would expect, is luxurious and lengthy. Surprisingly, it's drinking well now, and will continue to do so over the next ten or more years. An outstanding wine. (VH)


Joseph Phelps Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
Napa Valley, California $72.95 (189795)
Very approachable now, there are ripe tannins adding to the excellent structure, but not inhibiting enjoyment of the wine. Look for a fleshy texture and copious amounts of ripe, black and juicy berry fruit flavours along with nuances of spice and tobacco. The finish is well balanced and lengthy, leaving you with the impression that there's good life left in this. Drink now to 2014 with any manner of grilled red meat. (VH)


Elderton Command Shiraz 2003
Barossa, South Australia, Australia $74.95 (716142)
Muscular and hefty, this is one large mouthful of delicious flavours—chocolate mint, mulberry, black plum and licorice. It's also well balanced with racy acidity and firm tannins that coalesce nicely on the medium-length finish. Look for this to be more approachable in 2010, but you could try it now with a three hour decant/aeration and a an herb-rubbed rack of lamb. (VH)


D'Arenberg 'The Dead Arm' Shiraz 2005
McLaren Vale, South Australia, Australia $55.95 (981183)
This is d'Arenberg's flagship wine and receives painstaking attention from their wine maker extraordinaire, Chester Osborne. Look for a delicious red here with aromas and flavours of rich dark berry fruit laced with vanilla and truffle undertones. The tannins are supple, providing interest, ageability and structure while the moderating acidity keeps it far from jammy. The finish adds a healthy ladle of kirsch liqueur. Drink over the next 15 years. Almost a 5 star—4 ½ plus? (VH)


Château de la Tour Clos-Vougeot 'Vieilles Vignes'2005
AOC Clos-Vougeot $171.95 (57240)
It's not cheap, but don't think you're just paying for the name. This is as impressive as hell, with dense, focused fruit (dark cherry and black berries) on a fine acid structure and with a refined tannic frame. It's a real pleasure to taste and it will be a true pleasure to drink in another five to ten years or so, when it's had time to settle down and the components—all in great shape now—have got to know one another better and evolve into the smooth, elegant wine within. (RP)


Le Vieux Donjon Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2005
AOC Châteauneuf-du-Pape, France $52.95 (700922)
This southern Rhône beauty rings the bell on the Wow! factor with its concentrated and rich flavours and rustic qualities. Expect ripe and rich fruit flavours of bramble berry and black currant along with notes of gamey-ness and mushroom. There's wonderful balance, with firm tannins providing a medium-bodied frame. The finish is fruity, warm and lengthy. This pairs extremely well with cassoulet. (VH)


Ca'Marcanda Promis 2005
IGT Toscana $44.95 (745638)
This is a blend of Merlot (55%), Syrah (35%) and Sangiovese (10%) that delivers beautiful complexity around a core of sweet, ripe black and dark fruit and cherries. Look for notes of leather, smoke and cedar. There's a fine backbone of acidity that contributes to a complex structure, and the tannins are sweet and firm. Overall, it's an elegant wine that will repay cellaring over the next five years, when you should starting drinking it with well-seasoned red meats. (RP)


Le Serre Nuove dell'Ornellaia 2005
DOC Bolgheri Rosso $58.95 (606194)
A blend of four Bordeaux varieties (Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Petit Verdot), this is an understudy to Ornellaia. But frankly, I'd rather buy two of these. It has lovely, rich depth of flavour and texture, terrific structure, and attractive finesse. For fruit, think of vibrant, ripe, black fruit and berries, with hints of raspberry, chocolate, coffee, spice and herbs. It's softly textured with a tangy edge, and has good tannins. It's drinking now and will improve over the next five years. (RP)


Ornellaia 2004
DOC Bolgheri Rosso $149.95 (722470)
It's tough rating wines like this; you're aware of the name but don't want to be influenced by it. But there's no doubt in my mind that this is a great wine. It's poised, yet powerful; elegant yet firmly structured; expressive, yet tightly wound; ready to drink, yet... no, hold it there! This needs at least another five years before you open it to revel in the range of flavours that are only perceptible in outline today. You can taste the saturated fruit and a complex array of flavours, but they need time to mesh with the acidity and up-front, sweet tannins. Buy it, put it out of sight, and set your alarm for 2012. (RP)


Masi Campolongo di Torbe Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2001
DOC Amarone della Valpolicella Classico $84.95 (548677)
This is a beautiful Amarone that's ready for drinking now (with well-seasoned red meats and game) and over the next eight years. It delivers plush fruit (dark and black tree fruit and berries) with lovely accents of wild herbs and mocha, with notes of dried fruit. The acidity is stylish and supports the dense flavours beautifully, and the tannins are sweet, firm and manageable. (RP)


Masi Mazzano Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2001
DOC Amarone della Valpolicella Classico $92.95 (545129)
This is a quite exceptional Amarone, and well worth the price. All the best adjectives for this sort of wine apply here: plush, intense, well structured, concentrated, balanced?. More specifically, it's dry and full bodied, with beautiful and complex flavours of dark plum and cherry, with dominant notes of mocha and spice. The balance is excellent and the tannins are grippy but manageable. This is best cellared another five years (then drunk over the following ten) but you could drink it now with red meat and game cooked no more than medium-rare or with aged cheddar or Parmigiano. (RP)


Vega Sicilia 'Alion' 2003
DO Ribero del Duero $69.95 (707166)
This is a hugely attractive wine, medium-full bodied and densely flavoured, yet remarkably light on its feet. The flavours are all dark fruit, with layers of spice and herb and an undertone of vanilla. Lovely acid balance, fine structure and a long, long finish, make for a wine that's not only beautifully made, but is also stylish and elegant. You can drink this now, but it'll come into its own in another three to five years. Then enjoy it through to 2020. (RP)


Alvaro Palacios 'Les Terrasses' 2004
DOC Priorat $38.95 (977843)
This is truly amazing value, and if I were rating it based on value, I wouldn't hesitate to give it 5 stars. The fruit flavours (swirling seams of dark berries and plum) are dense and saturated, and nicely framed by notes of spice, pepper, and licorice. The texture is generous and the tannins are ripe and soft, making this excellent drinking now and for the next five years. (RP)




Kopke Colheita Port 1990
Portugal $36.95 (640268)
Kopke is one of the oldest and still family-owned Port houses (the Baross family), a rarity. What appears to be a hand-stenciled label, is. It's how two very long time employees happily spend their pre-retirement days. After spending seventeen years aging in wood, this Colheita is scrumptious. Caramel and toffee on the nose, that follows through to the unctuous and vibrant flavours that also open up to nutty, fig and Christmas cake spice on the palate and lengthy finish. Perfectly matched when served with crème caramel or spiced dark fruit cake. Pick up an armful, it's tremendous value. (VH)


Quinta de la Rosa Vintage Port 2003
Portugal $61.95 (052605)
This opens with fragrant aromas of spice and lilac. It's medium bodied and not overpowering as the flavours are nuanced and restrained—fig, raisin and dark berry fruit to the fore. The finish is warm (fortified to 20% alcohol), balanced and lengthy. You can drink this now or hold another 10 years. Serve with Stilton or a chocolate dessert. (VH)



Kourtaki Mavrodaphne of Patras
AOC Greece $12.95 (208413)
Think of the flavours of a Tawny Port, with dried fruit like figs and prunes, along with hints of red fruit.  With medium weight, this is sweet without being cloying, and it goes well with honey- and nut-rich baklava.


Flat Rock Cellars Chardonnay 2006
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $16.95 (681247)
Expect aromas and flavours of spice, slate and citrus with undertones of honeycomb. This is light to medium bodied with a very light handling of oak. The finish is short with a bite of lemon-lime at the end. This would pair extremely well with fresh water fish; try pan-seared trout under a generous drizzle of freshly squeezed lemon. (VH)


Megalomaniac Contrarian Sauvignon Blanc 2006
VQA Niagara Peninsula $16.95 (067553)
This opens with the grassy and herbal notes that are typical of Sauvignon Blanc. The flavour profile of this small production white includes those grassy and herbal ones along with a good dollop of citrus in the white grapefruit and lemon zones. Medium bodied with a brief finish, this is a good match with a green salad under light vinaigrette and crumbled goat cheese. (VH)



Cave Spring Cabernet/Merlot Reserve 2002
VQA Niagara Peninsula $29.95 (316943)
Very dark purple in the glass, this is round, smooth and ready now for enjoyable consumption. Medium bodied, well balanced and possessing good fruit flavours—black currant, tangy red cherry and black plum, the finish adds notes of spice, herbs and mocha. This is a lovely wine looking to partner with a spicy stuffed meatloaf. (VH)


Henry of Pelham Cabernet/Merlot Reserve 2004
VQA Niagara Peninsula $29.95 (395855)
Aromas of smoke, spice and black currant drift off the glass of this light- to medium-bodied blend. There's oodles of racy acidity here along with red currant and red cherry flavours. The tannins provide good backbone and the finish is quite lengthy and balanced. Veal and chicken dishes that include tomato-based sauces would pair well with this. (VH)


Henry of Pelham Reserve Baco Noir 2005
VQA Ontario $24.95 (461699)
This is an especially strong vintage of Henry of Pelham's Reserve Baco Noir, and it will strengthen the winery's reputation for working wonders with the variety. All the meat, smoke, and beet characteristics of Baco are here, but they're better integrated than in many years. The wine is more mainstream in flavour profile, without sacrificing the funkiness that's essentially Baco. The flavours (plum, cherry, wild berries) are solid throughout the palate, the texture is juicy, and the vibrant acidity makes this a great partner for chicken, veal and pork dishes. Drink it now and over the next five years. (RP)


Megalomaniac Vainglorious Merlot/Cabernet 2004
VQA Niagara Peninsula $24.95 (067579)
The labels for this line have won a number of design awards. Spice box and toasty notes form the lifted aromatics of this medium-bodied blend. The flavours are racy and rustic; there's plenty of cranberry and red currant, and the zingy acidity that accompanies them, plus undertones of smoked bacon and earthiness. On the finish the ripe fruit flavours come to the fore—cherry and ripe blackberry. (VH)


Thirty Bench Red 2005
VQA Beamsville Bench $19.95 (053389)
Their mantra is, "Thirty Bench wines are hard to find, and even harder to forget." I recommend a multiple purchase as this is extremely good value. Black currant, ripe black cherry, mixed spices and brioche are found in the aromas and flavours of this medium- to full-bodied Meritage blend. Meticulous handling of the fruit—hand sorted, hand plunged—and the reputation of this über premium winery coalesce in this gorgeous wine. It's well balanced, gutsy (firm and perceptible tannins), fruit forward with a lengthy finish. Drink now, with a two hour aeration/decant, and on to 2012. (VH)



Hess Select Chardonnay 2004
California $18.95 (986778)
These folks seldom disappoint, delivering another gem in this medium-bodied Chard with its gorgeous texture and deft balance. Honeyed apple and vanilla aromas lead the way to flavours of Granny Smith apple and musk melon. It's got lots of oomph, is well balanced and the oak's restrained. It finishes racy and clean with a lovely squirt of lemon-lime tanginess. There's good value provided here. (VH)


Rodney Strong 'Chalk Hill' Chardonnay 2005
Sonoma County $24.95 (275552)
The only subtleties in this wine are the aromas—wisps of spice box and green apple. Fully-flavoured, with apple and peach to the fore, there's also a mélange of others including pineapple, citrus and clove-infused pear. It's medium to full bodied, provides a lengthy clean finish and has the potential to age. You can drink it now, with roast poultry or steamed lobster, or cellar until 2012. (VH)



Ironstone Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
California $17.95 (537597)
Spicy, rich and fruit-forward, this California Cab is a crowd pleaser. Gobs of sweet fruit flavours drench the palate with bramble berry and cassis to the fore. It's well balanced with moderating acidity and even though the tannins are almost imperceptible, they do provide backbone. Simple and smooth, the finish is fruity and lengthy. This drinks well on its own and pairs well with grilled red meat. (VH).


St. Francis Merlot 2002
Sonoma County $24.95 (422014)
Rod and I loved this luscious Merlot. Hand harvested from three premium vineyards then aged eighteen months in French and American oak, it delivers a huge mouthful of sweet berry fruit. Black plum, spiced black cherry and cassis flavours to the fore, it's deftly balanced with moderating zing and judicious oak treatment. This is plush in texture, silky smooth in its delivery, and offering immediate drinking enjoyment. Pair it with your holiday bird. (VH)



Hensche 'Tilly's Vineyard' White 2005
Barossa, South Australia $26.95 (656264)
(Previously reviewed in Winecurrent) This opens with a glorious and lifted nose of white flowers in an exotic spice box. On the palate look for full, rich fruit flavours of nectarine, peaches and citrus complemented by layered hints of honeycomb and herbaceous, grassy undertones. This complex blend - 55% Semillon, 25% Chardonnay and 20% Sauvignon Blanc - offers a refreshingly clean and lingering finish. The price to quality balance is skewed heavily in your favour. (VH)


Skuttlebutt Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon 2006
Margaret River, Western Australia $17.95 (047621)
(Previously reviewed in Winecurrent) The wine is as delightful as the name. Expect a very robust and racy nose of citrus (lemon and lime) with some notes of minerality. The flavours are zingy and refreshing with pineapple, red grapefruit and peach included. It's medium bodied and the clean and refreshing finish is also medium in length. Steamed mussels in a white wine sauce pair perfectly. (VH)



Aramis Vineyards Shiraz 2004
McLaren Vale, South Australia $20.95 (041202)
Quite a fruit bomb, there's a solid core of rich, ripe and concentrated dark berry flavours and a quite a whack of oaky, smoky aromas. Cassis, tar and bramble berry flavours abound with still firm tannins quite apparent. The finish is as full bore fruity as the mid palate with moderating zing and black licorice layered on for good measure. Good to drink now after a three hour aeration/decant—better 2010 to 2015. (VH)


Coriole 'The Soloist' Single Vineyard Shiraz 2004
McLaren Vale, South Australia $26.95 (047613)
This'll certainly please lovers of big and bold Aussie Shiraz. You'll discover a firm tannin structure plus sweet warm (14.5% alcohol) ripe fruit flavours that include mulberry, black currant and Bing cherry, with chocolate and black licorice, as well. The finish is lengthy and jam-packed with, well... jammy fruit flavours and moderating zing. This will benefit from careful cellaring until 2010 and will drink well until 2015. (VH)


D'Arenberg 'The Footbolt' Shiraz 2005
McLaren Vale, South Australia $21.95 (984021)
This is a medium-bodied effort that opens up with a lifted nose of herbs, dark berry fruit and toasty oak. It also offers focused flavours of red cherry and cassis along with a generous dollop of moderating acidity that carries through to the spicy and dry finish. Offering good value, this will shine when paired with red meat dishes in a spicy tomato-based sauce. (VH)


Grant Burge 'The Holy Trinity' Grenache/Shiraz/Mourvèdre 2002
Barossa Valley $37.95 (726802)
Look for well-defined red fruit and berry flavours with notes of eucalyptus in this very successful GSM blend—a blend that Australia has gained a strong reputation for. This one has excellent structure and balance and although the fruit flavours are dense and concentrated, there's no hint of the jamminess that these wines can sometimes slide into. Pair it with a grilled rack of lamb, well seasoned with garlic and rosemary. (RP)


Kilikanoon 'The Medley' 2005
Barossa Valley/Clare Valley, South Australia $24.95 (675256)
A 50% Grenache/40% Shiraz/10% Mourvèdre blend, this earned its final half star on value. Highly perfumed aromas of spice box, cassis and mulberry blast off the glass as the clarion call to this fully flavoured and full bore fruity red. Deftly balanced and beautifully sculpted, the restrained use of oak and moderating acidity are seamlessly interwoven on the palate and the lengthy fruit forward and chocolate finish. Simply delicious. (VH)


Mitolo 'Jester' Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
McLaren Vale, South Australia $22.95 (043224)
Rustic and robust, this opens with a mélange of aromas that includes tar, cassis, black cherry, leather and spice box. There's surely more in there as it evolves in the glass. Medium bodied with a firm texture, the flavours include smoky bacon, sweet spiced black plum and aromatic bitters. You'll not get bored drinking this and it provides good value and medium term ageing potential—drink now to 2014. (VH)


Penfolds 'Bin 389' Cabernet/Shiraz 2004
South Australia $34.95 (309625)
(Previously reviewed in Winecurrent) Penfolds Chief Winemaker, Peter Gago, declares that Bin 389 is his favourite within the Penfolds' line-up, which includes the winery's iconic Grange Shiraz. It is, he says, "the archetypal Australian red," and it's even aged in barrels made of American oak but assembled at Penfolds' own cooperage. At 53% Cabernet Sauvignon and 47% Shiraz, the 2004 blend is more evenly balanced than many; the Cabernet component has run above 80% in some vintages. As Gago says, Bin 389 "is not made to a formula, but made to a style." Look for huge complexity and gorgeous fruit here, with ripe black plum and cherry and crushed black berries. You'll find accents of black pepper, chocolate and mocha. The tannins are gripping, and this will hold ten years, but you can drink it now. (RP)


Peter Lehmann 'The Futures' Shiraz 2004
Barossa, South Australia $31.95 (606780)
(Previously reviewed in Winecurrent) Look for full-bore Barossa Shiraz here that delivers what most wines can only promise—superb now, with careful ageing it will provide excellent drinking until 2015. Aromas of cherry, spice box and oak provide segue to this full-bodied and racy, rich red. The mélange of flavours include chocolate mint, cassis, mulberry and generous ladles of wonderfully-moderating acidity. It's warm (14.5% alcohol), but very well structured and balanced. The finish is lengthy and luxurious. Pick up 3 or more. (VH)


Wolf Blass 'Gold Label' Shiraz 2005
Barossa Valley, South Australia $29.95 (590273)
One of the more restrained offerings from Wolf Blass, it's still full bodied and quite full flavoured. Look for the usual aroma and flavour suspects in this Barossa Shiraz—black plum, spicy cherry, sweet bramble berry and black pepper, but not over-the-top or jammy. The lengthy well balanced finish is a treat. Pair this with grilled and herbed rack of lamb. (VH)



Kim Crawford Small Parcel 'Rise and Shine Creek' Pinot Noir 2006
Central Otago $34.95 (35337)
This is a terrific Pinot, and an excellent example of the quality that trickles (in global supply terms) from the Central Otago region in the south of the South Island. Kim Crawford offers solid fruit (tangy dark plum and mulberry) from front to back, with attractive notes of herbs and spice, in a profile that's becoming characteristic of many New Zealand Pinot Noirs. With vibrant acidity, they're excellent with food, and this one is excellent with rich red meats. (RP)



Domaine de la Vougeraie 'Les Pierres Blanches' 2004
AOC Côte de Beaune $39.95 (050492)
I found this medium- bodied gorgeously-textured Chardonnay quite beguiling. Exotic aromas of guava and musk melon form the lifted nose while the flavours include tropical fruit, green apple and a citrussy zing. There's excellent balance, restrained use of oak and a lengthy luxurious and refreshingly clean finish that layers on some spice. This is an exceptional choice to serve guests as they arrive and it will pair beautifully with white meat or seafood—especially lobster or crab—appetizers. (VH)



Cathedral Cellar 'Triptych' 2004
WO Coastal Region $16.95 (53124)
The triptych in question consists of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Shiraz, and here they combine to make a classy, smooth textured and well structured wine. The fruit is dominated by red and dark cherry and plum, nicely layered and well supported by acidity and framed with soft tannins. It's well priced and versatile as a food wine. Pair it with steak, lamb, or opulent burgers. (RP)



Château de Pierreux Brouilly 2006
AOC Brouilly $19.95 (5496)
It's good to see Beaujolais making a come-back at the higher quality end. This is a very good Brouilly, with concentrated flavours of black cherry, plum, black currant and blueberry. Lightly tannic, smooth textured, and very well balanced, it's a great partner with roast chicken with herbed stuffing and with grilled herbed pork tenderloin. (RP)


Château Haut Gravet 2003
AOC St-Emilion Grand Cru $34.95 (46573)
This is very impressive, a nice example of the way so many French winemakers handled the difficult 2003 vintage. Here you get lovely fruit flavours (cherry, black currant, spices), a fairly plush, round texture, and ripe tannins that are manageable now. It's a little on the fat side (there's the 2003 effect), but with red meats (like lamb) and roasted root vegetables, it comes through exceptionally well. Drink it now and over the next five to eight years. (RP)


Domaine Grand Veneur Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2004
AOC Châteauneuf-du-Pape $38.95 (41954)
This is a quite stunning Châteauneuf-du-Pape that over-delivers on flavour, texture and style. The fruit is pure, dense and concentrated, and dominated by dark fruits and berries with enhancing notes of spice, leather, coffee and smoke. Medium to full bodied, it's firmly but manageably tannic and has a good seam of acidity. It's ready to drink now, and good for another decade or two. Pour it with richly-flavoured and seasoned red meats. (RP)



Colonnara Cuprese 2005
DOC Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore $16.95 (723619)
This is a more complex, bigger style of Verdicchio than many people might be familiar with. Although it's made in stainless steel, it has some of the roundness you might expect of barrel treatment, and the flavour profile is headed more in the direction of peaches and tropical fruit than apples, pears and minerality. But the vibrant lemon-lime acidity is there and it's a delicious and stylish wine that pairs very well with grilled seafood and white fish. (RP)



Il Conte Villa Prandone 'Marinus' 2004
DOC Rosso Piceno Superiore $18.95 (52456)
I remember tasting my way through dozens of Rosso Picenos on my first visit to the Marche region on Italy's Adriatic coast, and being impressed by so many of them. Here's a very good example that delivers vibrant flavours of red cherry, plum and berries, with layers of spiciness and green herbs. The acidity is refreshing and clean, and this makes a delicious partner for tomato-based dishes featuring chicken, veal and pork. (RP)

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Carpineto Chianti Classico 205
DOCG Chianti Classico $20.95 (356048)
This is a solid Chianti Classico at a pretty good price. The fruit is dominated by red cherry and plum, and there are attractive notes of spice and a hint of wood. The texture is almost silky in its smoothness, and the tannins are moderate and ripe. Overall, it's a successful wine that pairs well with classic tomato-based Italian dishes or with foods in that style of texture. (RP)



Finca Sobreño Reserva Selección Especial 2000
DO Toro $29.95 (40766)
This is a sort of blast from the past: first because this older vintage is just so damned good, but also because it reminds us that Toro was a region that was "discovered" a few years ago, before falling into the shadows of regions more recently declared hot. The flavours here are dense and saturated, with crushed black berries and kirsch to the fore. There's a host of accents, too, including vanilla, toast and chocolate. They add up to a marvelous taste experience, and they're enhanced by a tangy texture and sleek, ripe tannins. This is at its best now, so get some to help you through what's shaping up to be a tough winter. (RP)


Pétalos 2006
DO Bierzo $23.95 (675207)
Bierzo doesn't figure high on the radar of many wine-drinkers, but it's a source of some stunning wines. Here's one. It delivers luscious flavours of sweet, ripe, dark and red fruit and berries with notes of dried fruit, pepper and spices. The acidity lifts the flavours and it's all framed with sweet tannins. Beautifully balanced, it's a natural for full-flavoured red meat dishes. (RP)



Tudernum Sagrantino di Montefalco 2003
DOCG Sagrantino di Montefalco $39.95 (52340)
This is an "In-Store Discovery," released on December 8, and available in small volumes in larger Vintages stores. But it's well worth looking for. The Sagrantino variety makes rich, robust, complex and well-structured reds that are often much sought-after. This is one (the hit of a tasting of a number of impressive reds), and it's that much bolder for being a product of the hot 2003 vintage. Look for a plush texture and flavours of black fruit and berries, with accents of coffee, mocha, spice and black pepper. Right now the fruit is in the grip of the tannins, and I recommend putting this away for another three years to get the best of the flavours. If you can't wait, drink it with red meat cooked medium-rare at most. (RP)


Look for these wines in forthcoming Vintages releases



Perez Cruz 'Limited Edition' Reserva Syrah 2005
Maipo Valley, Chile $24.95 (589812)
This is a blend of 90% Syrah, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Carmenère that delivers full flavour, mouth-filling texture, very good structure, and excellent balance. The fruit is dominated by sweet, black—very black—cherry and berries and it's accented by soft peppery spiciness and a hint of smoke. The rich ripeness is nicely offset by a line of acidity that runs through the palate, lifting the flavour and moderating the intensity. This works wonders with a grilled rack of lamb. (RP)



Saurus 'Patagonia Select' Malbec 2005
San Patricio del Chañar, Neuquen, Argentina $15.95 (55459)
This is a particularly fine Malbec for the price. Bone dry and smooth textured, it gets away from the heavy style of many popular Malbecs, yet retains the rich, dense fruit flavours you look for in the variety. Here, they evoke dark cherry, plum and berries, with very appealing spice and herbal notes. What's especially attractive is the seam of acidity, which lifts the flavours and makes this so successful as a partner to food. Drink it with grilled red meats and hearty stews. It's ready to drink and over the next five years. (RP)


Saurus 'Patagonia Select' Pinot Noir 2005
San Patricio del Chañar, Neuquen, Argentina $15.95 (55442)
The heavy, dark, Bordeaux-style bottle makes you think bold, dark wine, so it's a surprise that the wine that pours out looks for all the world like Pinot Noir. And it's a delicious one, at that. It's distinguished by solid fruit (dark sweet cherry with hints of the red, sour sort), attractive herbal and spicy notes, and excellent balance among the fruit, acidity and ripe tannins. It went well with grilled salmon, but would be even better, I think, with grilled lamb chops. There's some elegance and finesse here, and the price s excellent. (RP)



Perez Cruz 'Limited Edition' Reserva Cot 2005
Maipo Valley, Chile $24.95 (670547)
"Cot" is an alternative name for the Malbec variety, and both names are found in southwest France, where the variety hails from. Perez Cruz uses the less-known "Cot" partly because "Malbec" has become identified with Argentina. This is 90% Malbec? er, Cot? with 5.5% Petit Verdot and 4.5% Carmenère. It's a deep, dark wine with a plush texture and generous, concentrated fruit. Look for dense flavours of mulberry and black plum, with seams of herbs, spice, tar and smoke. Rich and intense, but with the acid frame that supports food, it's excellent with red game meats or well-seasoned steak. (RP)

Perez Cruz 'Limited Edition' Reserva Carmenère 2005
Maipo Valley $24.95 (670539)
As delicious as it so often is, Carmenère alone can be a little simple, a touch one-dimensional. Here, Perez Cruz winemaker Germán Lyon Larraín has blended in 4.4% Cabernet Sauvignon and 3.4% Syrah to add complexity to the structure and flavour. It more than works. The fruit is dominated by dark plum and berries, with notes of coffee, chocolate, herbs and spice. The wine has a rich, generous texture, good tannins, and excellent balance. Enjoy it with roasted or grilled red meats cooked medium-rare at most. (RP)

Cheers, Vic and Rod

We use the following symbols when rating wines:

	Wines achieving nirvana
	Wines of excellence
	Wines well worth trying
	Wines below average, but drinkable
	Wines better avoided, unless desperate
	Represents a half star
	We both agree —a brilliant wine!
	Drink now and over the next 2 years
	Drink now and over the next 5 years
	Place in cellar