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Rod and Vic's new book, The 500 Best-Value Wines in the LCBO, will be in major bookstores throughout Ontario by the first week of November. But you can get an early copy—and meet your Winecurrent reviewers—at these events:

Wednesday, October 24, 7-9pm. A wine tasting and book signing at Nicholas Hoare Books, Sussex Drive, Ottawa. Tickets ($40, with profits going to charity) are available from Nicholas Hoare Books at 613 562 2665.

Saturday, October 27, 5-8pm. A wine tasting at the LCBO Bayview Village store, Toronto. Books will be available at the Chapters store across the hall.

Friday to Sunday, November 2, 3 and 4. Vic, Rod and their book will be available at the Ottawa Wine and Food show. Drop by and see us at the Winecurrent booth. The book will be on sale at the SmithBooks booth.

October 27th, 2007 Vintages Release

An explanation of the scoring system and icons is included at the end of this newsletter.

The October 27 release features what the catalog describes as "party wines." This feature is followed by the usual pattern of release wines, organized by style and country.

Party wines feature
Sparkling Wine

***1/2 drink now
Jean Geiler Crémant d'Alsace Pinot Noir Brut Non-vintage
AOC Crémant d'Alsace, Alsace, France $18.95 (047191)
This is a delightful sparkling wine made in the same method as Champagne, but considerably less expensive. You'll love the nose; it's redolent of baked apple pie including the spicy aromas of cinnamon and nutmeg. On the racy and light- to medium-bodied palate, it's all about green apple, mineral and citrus flavours that provide a clean and refreshing attack and a fairly-lengthy finish. You'll discover a hint of white peach there, as well. (VH)

White Wine

**** drink or cellar
KWV Cathedral Cellar Chardonnay 2005
WO Coastal Region, South Africa $14.95 (328559)
This is a plush, generously-textured Chardonnay that has bold flavours to match. Look for rich peach and tropical fruit to the fore, with a nice stream of acidity for balance. It needs fairly dense food, so pair it with roast turkey or pork tenderloin, served with a sweet fruit condiment or stuffing. (RP)

Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
Zenato Lugana Riserva 'Sergio Zenato' 2005
DOC Lugana, Italy $27.95 (928218)
Try this with a fairly substantial spicy dish of seafood or chicken. It's a medium-bodied white that's fruit-forward (the focus is on the peach-apricot zone) and quite spicy. The texture is mouth-filling and smooth, with a crisp edge from the lemon/citrus acidity. (RP)

****1/2 drink now
Yalumba 'Mawson's Wrattonbully' Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
Wrattonbully, South Australia $19.95 (039107)
Aromas of chocolate and eucalyptus (minty and leafy) drift off the glass of this medium-bodied and quite elegant red. Extremely well balanced, this offers a juicy mouthful of red cherry, mulberry and red currant fruit. The barely perceptible tannins provide some structure while the finish is delicious and nowhere near jammy. At 13.5% alcohol, it's one of the few from Australia that wisely shows restraint. It's drinking well now. Try on its own or pour it alongside a slab of beef, grilled to your personal taste. (VH)

White Wine

**** drink now
d'Arenberg The Stump Jump 2006
McLaren Vale, South Australia $13.95 (922203)
(Previously reviewed in Winecurrent) This is a top drop from down under at a very affordable price point. The eclectic blend includes 63% Riesling, 16% Sauvignon Blanc, 13% Roussanne and 7% Marsanne. Clean and refreshing, it has seen no oak. Expect floral and slate notes off the warm nose and gorgeous flavours - peach, green apple, fig and hints of mint - and a plush texture. It has beautiful balance and a lengthy citrussy finish. Just the ticket for warm days and lemon veal. (VH)

Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
Jip Jip Shiraz 2006
Limestone Coast, South Australia $19.95 (673897)
From a small family-owned winery that's been involved in Limestone Coast viticulture for 5 generations, it begins with a subtle nose of spiced currant then gets into gear with a lovely mouthful of sweet briary berry and black plum flavours. It has a silky texture, is medium to full bodied, exhibits deft balance and excellent oak integration. The finish is fruit-forward and warm—15% alcohol. It displays enough structure from the ripe tannins to still be drinking at optimum into 2012. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Ringbolt Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
Margaret River, Western Australia $19.95 (606624)
This is another lovely effort from these folks. Look for smoke, mocha and mint off the aromatic nose. Everything's in synch—from the judicious use of oak, rich sweet fruit flavours, in the bramble berry and black cherry zones, to the moderating acidity. The juicy, lip-smacking fruity and medium-length finish layers on chocolate and espresso roast flavours. Lovely on its own, grilled lamb tenderloins are a perfect pairing. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Château Poitevin 2003
AOC Médoc, Cru Bourgeois, Bordeaux $18.95 (46524)
This is a delicious and classy wine that represents very good value indeed. The fruit, focused on dark spicy cherries, is layered and complex and very pretty. The texture is full and smooth with a hint of tanginess, and the tannins are there, but easily handled. It's drinking now and will easily hold another couple of years. It's not for long-cellaring, then, but to enjoy now—with grilled lamb. (RP)

**** drink or cellar
Luigi Righetti Valpolicella Classico Superiore 'Ripasso' 2005
DOC Valpolicella Classico Superiore, Italy $16.95 (695890)
You'll revel in the robust aromas of smoke, black licorice, and creosote. There's a mélange of flavours—tangy sour cherry, red licorice, black currant and underpinnings of gamey and smoky notes. Not for the faint-of-heart, there's also a racy acidity hit on the sinewy and lengthy finish. If you like Amarone and Ripasso wine, you'll love this. Look for a dish of meat and tomato sauce to pair with it. Try Veal Parmigiano. (VH)

Champagne

****1/2 drink or cellar
Taittinger Champagne Brut Reserve
AOC Champagne, France $59.95 (814723)
(Previously reviewed in Winecurrent) Tattinger's total production is 5 million bottles per annum and 4 million is this very popular Brut Réserve. Uncharacteristically for a Champagne with such high production, it's predominantly Chardonnay (40%) with the balance an even split between Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. Twenty percent of the wine is from previous vintages—15% from the previous year's harvest and 5% from 2 years before with the wine cellared 3 to 4 years before release. Look for an aromatic nose of citrus, green apple and floral notes then a riveting attack on the palate of a frothy expansive mousse delivering citrus (white grapefruit and lemon), mineral notes and pear. This exhibits delicate balance and an air of elegance, finishing clean and refreshing. It's a natural as an aperitif and pairs extremely well with pan-seared white fish under a drizzle of freshly-squeezed lemon. (VH)

White Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Clos du Val Chardonnay 2005
Carneros, Napa Valley, California $26.95 (297499)
Here you have an elegant Chardonnay that features rich peach, pear and apple among its complex flavours. There's a rich vein of sweetness at its core, and the fruit is offset by a nice seam of grapefruit acidity. Smooth in texture and medium in body, this goes well with grilled pork tenderloin. (RP)

Red Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Penfolds Bin 28 Kalimna Shiraz 2004
South Australia $29.95 (422782)
A lovely nose of lilac, herbs and field berry form a delightful segue to this medium bodied perennial favourite. The densely concentrated fruit flavours—ripe black cherry and black currant—are ably supported by notes of sweet bramble berry. The perceptible tannins add structure, grip and ageing potential. There's a long balanced finish with moderating tanginess and layers of robust fruit flavours. Drink now to 2012 alongside grilled red meats. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Beringer Merlot 2004
Napa Valley, California $28.95 (919647)
Look for a full-throttle red with dense and concentrated fruit aromas and flavours of black raspberry and black plum compote. You'll also discover interesting notes of cassis and red cherry along the way. Ripe tannins and moderating acidity make it racy and well structured. The finish is lengthy, balanced and quite delicious. This would be a wise choice for the holiday season bird accompanied by savoury sage dressing, rich mushroom gravy and all the accompaniments—you'd earn gold for the match. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
La Cour des Papes 'Grande Serres' Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2003
AOC Châteauneuf-du-Pape, France $31.95 (651661)
I was in Châteauneuf-du-Pape in late July 2003, when the unrelenting heat seemed to be baking the grapes on the vines. I remember a lunch under the shade of some trees, just near the ruins of the château), when the food seemed to melt in front of us. But wine after wine from the vintage turned out brilliantly. Like this one, which delivers lovely complex fruit (cherry, plum, chocolate, coffee, spice, and so on) with excellent balance. Maybe not an extra-long keeper, but you'll enjoy this for the next five or six years with roasted or grilled red meats. (RP)

****1/2 cellar
Mauro Molino Barolo 2003
DOCG Piedmont, Italy $42.95 (050658)
What a gorgeous mouthful of wine this is. Spice box and berry fruit aromas open up this medium- to full-bodied Nebbiolo while the cornucopia of flavours include kirsch, black currant compote, ripe black cherry with hints of tar and herbs. It also provides deft balance and moderating tanginess. There are enough perceptible tannins here to rate this a cellar dweller; tuck it away for 3 years and then drink it over the next four. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Quinta da Garrida Touriga Nacional Reserva 2003
DOC Dão, Portugal $27.95 (586735)
You expect gobs of sweet fruit flavours from the blistering hot '03 vintage and this delivers, but it also delivers good structure, nice balance and enough acidity to keep it far from jammy. The lifted nose offers aromas of smoke and tar, while the delicious flavours include ripe black cherry and sweet black plum. The finish is lengthy and memorable with its fruit-forward gusher of red cherry and spice. (VH)

Main release

Dessert Wine

****1/2 drink now
Perrin & Fils Muscat de Beaume de Venise 2005
AOC Muscat de Beaume de Venise, France $16.95 (004713)
This is a beautiful example of this region's 'Vin Doux Naturel'—made from the Muscat grape and fortified to a minimum of 15% alcohol. This dessert wine may be drunk with, or poured over dessert (ice cream, for example), or be served as the dessert. This opens with alluring and expressive aromas of rosewater then delivers a silky-smooth mouthful of honeycomb, orange peel and spicy flavours. Lip-smacking good, especially when served chilled. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Ruffino 'Serelle' Vin Santo 2003
DOC Vin Santo del Chianti, Italy $18.95 375 mL (001008)
Urban legends abound about how this came to be named Vin Santo, a.k.a. Holy wine, but they all centre on being offered at Sunday Mass—sadly, never at any I attended. Burnt sugar, caramel and nutty aromas blast from the glass of this amber-coloured nectar. On the palate it's all about sweet almond, candied fruit, raisin and spiced caramel flavours with great balancing acidity to keep it from being sickly sweet or cloying. It's a natural with spiced fruit cake or biscotti. Serve well chilled, with my blessing. (VH)

U.S.A.: red

***** drink or cellar
Van Ruiten 'Old Vine' Zinfandel 2004
Lodi, California $18.95 (058685)
This wine is stunning. Lodi is hot, dry, and requires careful water management to keep grapes from raisining and the wines tasting of stewed fruit. They have managed that perfectly and these 'old vines' added depth and complexity. It's bold, but not brash with huge fruit flavours of black raspberry, cassis and black cherry. There are also finely grained tannins for structure and moderating acidity to provide deft balance. It offers a lengthy, fruity and expressive finish. The quality to price balance is tipped heavily in your favour - stock up. (VH)

Argentina: red

***1/2 drink or cellar
Catena Alamos Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
Mendoza $13.95 (467944)
This good-value, second label red from Bodegas Catena Zapata offers a lot for its modest price tag. Smoke, oak and red berry scents form the aromatic profile while the flavours—red cherry and cranberry—are delivered on a medium-bodied frame. The tannins are ripe, but perceptible, and the finish is medium in length with a hint of gamey-ness. This pairs well with grilled meats or burgers, hot off the grill. (VH)

**** drink now
Michel Torino Ciclos Malbec/Merlot 2004
Cafayate $18.95 (37895)
A very well-made Bordeaux blend that delivers lovely layered fruit: black currant, crushed black berry, and plum, with notes of pepper, spice and mocha. The texture is rich and edgy and there's a decent grip from the tannins. It's a natural for grilled or roasted red meats. (RP)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Salentein Malbec 2004
Uco Valley $19.95 (640854)
This is a big, bold Malbec that got plenty of structure and complexity to lift it above many of its kind in this price range. The dark fruit flavours are layered and accented with spice and herbs, the texture is generous and plush, and the ripe tannins are still pretty firm. You can take care of the tannins by opening a bottle of this with a slab of beef, grilled no more than medium-rare. (RP)

Chile: red

***1/2 drink now
Arboleda Carmenère 2005
Colchagua Valley $16.95 (46284)
This is an easy-drinking version of Carmenère. It has all the flavourful fruitiness and rich texture you expect of the variety, but it's a bit short on complexity. If you're looking for a straightforward, no-nonsense wine to drink with spicy red meat dishes and gourmet burgers, you won't go wrong with this. (RP)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Santa Carolina 'Barrica Selection' Petit Verdot 2005
Rapel Valley $14.95 (007484)
(Previously reviewed in Winecurrent) Petit Verdot, a minor variety in the Bordeaux palette, is too-seldom produced as a varietal wine. This one (which is 85% Petit Verdot, 9% Syrah and 6% Cabernet Sauvignon) delivers richly complex flavours of dark plum, cherry and blackberries, with notes of dried fruit, spice and smoke. It's medium bodied with a fairly full and plush texture, has good tannic structure, and it goes well with well-seasoned red meats. (RP)

Australia: white

***** drink now
Yalumba 'Wild Ferment' Chardonnay 2005
Eden Valley, South Australia $17.95 (39271)
Fermented by wild yeasts (as you'd expect) this is a really lovely Chardonnay. It delivers full-on fruit (peach, tropical fruit) with delicious, mouth-watering juicy acidity that's all lemon and grapefruit. The texture is clean and crisp, yet plush and smooth. It's a winner, worth buying a few of, and delicious with pork or chicken in a rich cream-based sauce. (RP)

Australia: red

****1/2 drink or cellar
Hope Estate Shiraz 2005
Hunter Valley $18.95 (740068)
(Previously reviewed in Winecurrent) Non-grafted 11 year-old vines come of age in this drought-stricken vintage and provide this delectable red with a 'sense of place' - the mighty Hunter. Black pepper and sweet spiced plum aromas blast from the lifted nose of this impeccably balanced drop. Look for ripe and elegant black cherry and currant flavours that are supported by dusty tannins and a spoonful of tang. It finishes fruit-forward and food-friendly. Pour with rare grilled red meat. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Jim Jim 'The Down-Underdog' Shiraz 2006
McLaren Vale, South Australia $14.95 (682005)
This earned its final half star on value as it delivers a pretty nice mouthful of red Aussie wine for under $15. The predominant flavours are currant and red cherry with lots of tanginess present on the palate and finish. Don't let that dissuade you though, as there are also solid ripe warm (14.5% alcohol) fruit flavours for balance. The tannins are ripe and the finish dry and well balanced. Give this a go with lamb daube or osso bucco. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Wits End 'The Procrastinator' 2005
McLaren Vale, South Australia $16.95 (684100)
This 100% Cabernet Franc offers a nicely balanced red with plum and spice on the nose and a generous delivery of red cherry and currant flavours on the palate. Look for a lengthy warm (14'5% alcohol) finish with more fruit flavours of black plum and field berry plus discernible hints of spice box and licorice. It's round and ready to drink on its own or with stuffed and herb-rubbed roast chicken. (VH)

South Africa: red

**** drink now
Laborie Merlot/Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
WO Paarl $14.95 (663195)
Fashioned for those SA wine-lovers who particularly enjoy those smoky, tarry, burned aromas and flavours; this medium-bodied Cab is just the ticket. It's well balanced and not over-the-top in any way—aromas and flavours of cherry and spice, excellent balance with finely grained tannins and reasonable acidity with, of course, the first mentioned characteristics. Try this with an SA favourite - boboti, a curried ground meat dish. (VH)

France: white

****1/2 drink or cellar
Zind-Humbrecht 'Herrenweg de Turckheim' Pinot Gris 2005
AOC Alsace $41.95 (680348)
Off-dry with delicious and intense fruit (peach, apricot, light tropical and citrus), this has a creamy, mouth-filling texture well balanced by citrus acidity. It's an elegant and quite opulent Pinot Gris that pairs very nicely with spicy Thai dishes or spicy grilled seafood. (RP)

France: red

****1/2 drink or cellar
Domaine de Font-Sane Gigondas 2004
AOC Gigondas, Rhône $24.95 (735779)
A perennial favourite delivering delicious age worthy wines—the '98 from my cellar is still drinking beautifully. A Grenache/Syrah blend, this offers ripe and juicy black berry and cherry fruit accompanied by lovely hints of spice box (garrigue) and black licorice. Well balanced and beautifully-textured, the tannins are ripe and the acidity's in perfect harmony. This is another fine choice for a holiday season bird (from now to 2014) that's stuffed and served with all the fixings, including cranberry sauce. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Perrin 'L'Andéol' Côtes du Rhône-Villages Rasteau 2005
AOC Côtes du Rhône-Villages $18.95 (976845)
This is a lovely Côtes du Rhône-Villages, with rich, concentrated layered fruit (sweet red and dark cherries and spice) that's well balanced by a clean line of acidity. It's well structured, has a nice gentle grip from the sweet tannins, and a generous and slightly tangy texture. Enjoy this with well-seasoned, grilled lamb chops. (RP)

Germany: white

**** drink or cellar
Schönborn Riesling Spätlese 2002
QmP Rheingau $28.95 (960500)
You'll find extraordinarily rich fruit flavours here—intense tropical fruit, mango, peach, apricot—but they're finely complemented with juicy citrus acidity for a texture that's harmonious and attractive. Lightly viscous in texture, this goes well with spicy pork, chicken and seafood dishes. (RP)

Italy: red

****1/2 drink or cellar
Renato Ratti 'Marcenasco' Barolo 2003
DOCG Barolo, Piedmont $53.95 (713479)
Spice, earthy notes, leather and red berry aromas form the segue to this smoothly-textured and medium-bodied northern Italian gem. The flavours are very expressive and rich—black cherry, licorice and gobs of sweet berry fruit—while the texture is silky smooth. The lengthy finish piles on more of those delicious flavours. Drink now to 2012 alongside mushroom risotto. (VH)

***** drink or cellar
Antinori 'Badia A Passignano' Chianti Classico Riserva 2001
DOCG Chianti Classico Riserva, Tuscany $39.95 (384552)
This offers fabulous value and a stunning wine. The aromas are subtle—savoury and vanilla—and don't really prepare you for the treat to follow. It's full bodied and full of flavours that'll drench your palate with coffee, cassis and dark Belgian chocolate. Perceptible, but acceptable, tannins abound. The perfectly balanced finish sports more of the same flavours and adds a generous dash of tanginess and black licorice. This is Chianti at its very best. Drink now to 2015. (VH)

**** cellar
Frescobaldi Tenuta di Castiglioni 2005
IGT Toscana $22.95 (974394)
This Cabernet Sauvignon / Sangiovese blend, from an über premium producer, offers an aromatic nose of spice, lilac and black currant. The mouth feel is smooth and textured, and it's fully flavoured. There were certainly perceptible tannins in the sample I tasted, making this a candidate for drinking 2009 to 2014. The finish layers on a delightful rush of flavourful kirsch liqueur. It drinks beautifully paired with grilled lamb tenderloins and roasted root vegetables. (VH)

Portugal: red

**** drink or cellar
Fingara Herdade do Esporão Reserve 2004
DOC Alentejo $25.95 (606590)
More new world than old (an Aussie wine maker), there's a 30% blend of Cabernet Sauvignon with the balance made up of two indigenous red varieties. It's quite highly-flavoured with red cherry and red berry fruit with a generous dollop of moderating acidity. You'll find it classy and racy with a well balanced finish. Pour beside a stack of grilled sausages or grilled gourmet burgers. (VH)

Spain: red

****1/2 drink or cellar
Condado de Haza Crianza 2004
DO Ribera del Duero $24.95 (963348)
This lovely offering from the iconic Alejandro Fernández is 100% Tempranillo (he's a staunch traditionalist) and marks many excellent vintages in a row for this top notch wine. The lifted aromas are black plum compote, hints of raspberry and leathery notes. The flavours are quite astonishing with huge ladles of dark chocolate, crème de cassis and Bing cherry. It's balanced, offers good structure and finishes up dry with a lovely black licorice flavour. You can drink now or safely squirrel away until 2012. Worthy of a multiple buy. (VH)

Upstream in Winecurrent

Classics release: November 6, 2007

***** drink or cellar
Stella Bella 'Suckfizzle' Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
Margaret River, Western Australia $39.00 (53538)
Inky-black in the glass, this is a ripper of a red. Mint, savoury and ripe black fruit aromas form a segue to this medium-bodied, chock full of flavour beauty. The deep, rich concentrated flavours include bramble berry, chocolate, cassis and spice box. It's extremely well balanced and beautifully-textured. The finish is lengthy and adds a layer of espresso roast and black licorice flavours. Very well priced. (VH)

Vintages release: November 24, 2007

****1/2 drink now
Stella Bella Wines Cabernet Sauvignon / Merlot 2004
Margaret River, Western Australia $24.95 (47639)
This winery is an outstanding discovery. Medium bodied and exuding restrained elegance, look for a lifted nose of cherry and mulberry then a delicious mouthful of ripe fruit flavours—black plum compote and spicy black cherry to the fore. You'll also find hints of chocolate, vanilla and spice box. The charming finish delivers more of the same along with finely grained tannins for structure and just a dash of moderating acidity. Great balance, honest value and a lovely wine. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Thorn Clarke 'Shotfire' Shiraz 2005
Barossa Valley, South Australia $24.40 (18796)
This is a gargantuan Shiraz providing a huge mouthful of concentrated (from low yields of only 1 ½ - 2 tons per acre) and rich flavours. Look for sweet and expressive aromas and flavours of bramble berry, Bing Cherry, black licorice, dark chocolate and mint. There's also perceptible ripe and friendly tannins and lashings of oak (American and French - 40% new). Good to go now with lamb or beef grilled rare to medium rare. It could also be cellared until 2010 and enjoyed until 2015. (VH)

Vintages release: December 8, 2007

****1/2 drink or cellar
Peter Lehmann 'Futures' Shiraz 2004
Barossa Valley, South Australia $34.95 (606780)
Look for full-bore Barossa Shiraz here that delivers what most wines can only promise—superb now, with careful ageing it will provide excellent drinking until 2015. Aromas of cherry, spice box and oak provide the segue to this full-bodied and racy, rich red. The mélange of flavours include chocolate mint, cassis, mulberry and generous ladles of wonderfully-moderating acidity. It's warm (14.5% alcohol), but very well structured and balanced. The finish is lengthy and luxurious. Pick up 3 or more. (VH)

**** drink now
Stella Bella 'Skuttlebutt' Sauvignon Blanc / Semillon 2006
Margaret River, Western Australia $17.95 (47621)
The wine is as delightful as the name. Expect a very robust and racy nose of citrus (lemon and lime) with some notes of minerality. The flavours are zingy and refreshing with pineapple, red grapefruit and peach included. It's medium bodied and the clean and refreshing finish is also medium in length. Steamed mussels in a white wine sauce pair perfectly. (VH)

Vintages release: January 5, 2008

****1/2 drink now
Leasingham 'Bin 56' Cabernet Sauvignon 2202
Clare Valley, South Australia $24.95 (39545)
The warm days and cool nights of the Clare had a hand in fashioning this rich and concentrated red. Above all, expect understated elegance and absolutely perfect balance. The aromas and flavours are redolent of sweet kirsch liqueur, bright red cherry and savoury notes. Nothing over-the-top (14% alcohol) and everything is in synch including the fruit-forward (more cherry and spice) lengthy finish. This is a lovely drop at a price that clearly favours you, the purchaser. (VH)

Vintages release: February 2, 2008

**** drink or cellar
Peter Lehmann Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
Barossa Valley, South Australia $19.95 (605741)
This is a wonderful drop reflecting the 3 Rs - rich, robust and really good value. It was matured in French and American oak 12 months, explaining the aromas of vanilla and coconut that are intermingled with mint and notes of pepper and cloves. The flavours are rich, racy and concentrated with black currant, red cherry and kirsch. The finish is clean and fruit-forward. The quality to price balance is ratio is skewed in your favour. Pair with pasta in a spicy and rich meat and tomato sauce. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Stella Bella Semillon / Sauvignon Blanc 2006
Margaret River, Western Australia $19.95 (48546)
We're beginning to see more and more of these blends and that's a very good thing. Alluring aromas of honeycomb and floral notes form the lifted nose. The flavours are spicy, racy and refreshing. Look for vibrant hits of gooseberry and pineapple along with generous portions of delectable orange rind and assorted citrus flavours including white grapefruit. The finish is zingy and looking for a fillet of freshwater fish (bass or trout) under a generous squirt of freshly-squeezed lemon. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Stella Bella Shiraz 2005
Margaret River, Western Australia $22.95 (48553)
Just what you would expect from well-made Shiraz from Margaret River—spice and pepper on the nose and in the flavours along with a gusher of gorgeous red and black berry fruit. There are perceptible, but acceptable tannins, loads of tang for balance and a gloriously-lengthy and gorgeously-flavoured finish. This pairs well with steak (beef, elk or venison) grilled rare to medium rare. (VH)

Vintages release, May 28 2008

****1/2 drink now
Château de Flaugergues 'La Mejanelle' Cuvée Sommelière 2006
AOC Coteaux du Languedoc $18.45 (65896)
This is a beautiful blend of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre that over-delivers for the price. The texture is full and smooth and the flavours—dominated by raspberry coulis and spicy red fruit and berries—are rich and complex. Dry and well-structured with moderate tannins, it achieves excellent balance between fruit and acidity. I sipped it with well-seasoned (garlic, rosemary, lavender, pepper), grilled lamb chops. I recommend you do the same. (RP)

New in Vintages

***** drink or cellar
Perrin 'Les Sinards' Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2004
AOC Châteauneuf-du-Pape $38.95 (926626) Vintages Essential
This wonderful wine is a blend of Grenache (70%), Syrah (15%) and Mourvèdre (15%). The flavours are dominated by black fruit and kirsch accompanied by a complex palette than includes tar, smoke and coffee. Right now, it's a fairly rigorous wine, taut and fairly tannic, but still drinkable. Give it two or three years to develop some suppleness and you'll have a real delight to drink with a well-seasoned rack of lamb. (RP)

**** drink or cellar
Mike Weir Chardonnay 2006
VQA Niagara Peninsula $15.95 (26) Vintages Essential
Two Mike Weir wines, this Chardonnay and a Cabernet Merlot, have just been added to the list of Vintages Essentials wines. (And yes, the CSPC of this wine really is 26.) This is a quite elegant Chardonnay with fine peach, pear and light tropical aromas that lead to a well-balanced mouthful of ripe peach, sweet pear and apple, with hints of pineapple and butterscotch. It's medium bodied, crisp textured, and excellent with pork or chicken in a rich sauce. (RP)

New from Ontario Wineries

**** drink now
Calamus Estate Winery Unoaked Chardonnay 2006
VQA Niagara Peninsula $14.00
This is a very successful Chardonnay that's characterized by pure fruit flavours and a great fruit-acid balance. Look for well-defined flavours of apple, pear and peach when you first open the bottle, and expect a delicate muskiness to emerge after about an hour to add complexity. The texture is smooth, the weight is medium, and this makes an excellent partner to roast chicken or grilled white fish. Order on-line from www.calamuswines.com. (RP)

**** drink now
Calamus Estate Winery 'Sagitta' Gewürztraminer 2006
VQA Niagara Peninsula $13.00
This 100% Gewürztraminer delivers delicate flavours and texture that are all characteristic of the variety, but in a style that's much lighter than from, say, Alsace. In many ways, this is a more versatile style that will still match spicy Asian cuisine but won't threaten to overpower food with pungent flavours and spiciness. The flavours of lychee, peach, and apricot here are lightly accented with warm spices, musk and white pepper, and there's a seam of lovely lime-flavoured acidity. Just off-dry, it's an excellent sipping wine, too. Order on-line from www.calamuswines.com. (RP)

**** drink now
Reif Estate Winery Chardonnay Reserve 2005
VQA Niagara River $19.95
This is a stylish Chardonnay with a lot of character. The concentrated fruit flavours lie mainly in the peach-apricot-mango-tropical zone and there are attractive seams of toffee and caramel. It makes for a rich flavour that meshes well with the plush texture. Add a nice balancing seam of acidity, and you have a quite delicious Chardonnay, one that paired well with fig and olive tapenade and will also complement rich chicken and turkey dishes. Order on-line from www.reifwinery.com. (RP)

New in the LCBO

Argentina

****1/2 drink now
Finca Flichman 'Misterio' Malbec 2006
Mendoza $9.95 (28803)
This is amazing value for the quality. The wine is full of concentrated dark fruit and berries with prominent notes of spice and toast. It's dry, medium-full bodied, with good grip from the tannins. There's real substance here, along with structure and complexity, and it's excellent with rich red meat dishes. (RP)

France

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La Vieille Ferme Blanc 2006
AOC Côtes du Luberon, France $11.45 (298505)
Delivering incredible value, this medium-bodied gem punches well above its price. It's pretty uncomplicated—screw cap, no oak ageing with only 10% barrel fermented—but what a lovely wine. Hints of tropical fruit and mineral on the nose, the flavours are in the Granny Smith apple and white peach zones. It's quite textured, almost creamy, and it finishes clean and refreshing. Delicious sipped on its known, it pairs particularly well
with roast or clay baked chicken. (VH)

Italy

****1/2 drink now
Terra d'Aligi Montepulciano d'Abruzzo 2004
DOC Montepulciano d'Abruzzo $11.95 (28530)
Every now and again, an excellent wine at an excellent price hits the LCBO shelves. Word gets around, stocks sell out, people wait for new shipments?. Could this be the next one? It's a remarkable wine for the price, with classic and concentrated flavours of cherry, spice and dried fruit, a high-toned texture, and excellent balance. Dry, with moderate tannins, it's a total pleasure to drink with tangy, dry cheeses and with a whole range of pastas and meat dishes. (RP)

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Fazi Battaglia Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico 2006
DOC Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico $10.95 (24422)
Easily recognizable in its funky bottle, this Verdicchio delivers vintage after vintage. This latest one delivers solid fruit flavours of apple and pear with fine citrus notes. It's dry, medium bodied and crisp, and it's excellent with seafood and fish. (RP)

Portugal

***1/2 drink now
Vinha do Poeta 2004
DOC Dão $9.95 (613935)
This red, made from three of the region's indigenous varieties, delivers very good value. You'll find a tangy texture, focused flavours of bright red fruit, and good complexity. Dry and medium bodied, it's excellent with pizza and red meats. (RP)

Spain

***1/2 drink now
Viña Mayor Crianza 2001
DO Ribera del Duero $15.95 (19901)
This is a delicious red that offers fruit flavours of sweet plum and cherry with a hint of spiciness. Dry and smooth-textured, with a light tannic grip, it's excellent with roasted red meats like lamb chops. (RP)

New in Restaurants

****1/2 drink now
Feudi di Fontamara 'Sigillum' Rosso 2003
IGT Terre di Chieti, Italy $18.95
This is a fabulous Montepulciano d'Abruzzo (85%) Aglianico (15%) red blend from a region that is east of Rome near the Adriatic Sea. 2003 was a blistering vintage and this reflects that. Look for robust aromas and flavours of dried and crushed fruits, savoury herbs and buckets of juicy black cherry. There's good structure, deft balance and a lengthy dry finish. Pair with spicy back ribs or pasta in a bolognese sauce. Stunning value here. Order now, by the case, from Rob Beardall at This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.. (VH)

Cheers, Rod and Vic

Rating System

We use the following symbols when rating wines:

5 starsWines achieving nirvana
4 stars Wines of excellence
3 stars Wines well worth trying
2  stars Wines below average, but drinkable
1 star Wines better avoided, unless desperate
half star Represents a half star
2 glassesWe both agree —a brilliant wine!
drink nowDrink now and over the next 2 years
drink or cellarDrink now and over the next 5 years
cellarPlace in cellar