You can get between the covers with the Winecurrent duo!
As you know, Rod Phillips and Vic Harradine review all the wines in your Winecurrent newsletter--now they've published a book!
It's your guide to the best-value wines in the LCBO General List and Vintages Essentials collection - which means, unlike the Vintages wines reviewed in Winecurrent, they're available to you each and every time you visit the LCBO.
The 500 Best-Value Wines in the LCBO provides ratings, reviews and food matches for everyday and special occasion wines. As they do in your Winecurrent newsletter, Vic and Rod tasted each and every wine, which in this case means they tasted all LCBO and Vintages Essentials wines so as to come up with the top 500 in value.
Like many of the wines in it, the book is also excellent value with a $19.95 list price. It'll provide you with a valuable guide to terrific value wines as well as make an original and delightful gift for your wine-loving friends. Look for it in major book stores in a couple of weeks, or pre-order your copies now from www.chapters.indigo.ca (enter keyword - LCBO).
An explanation of the scoring system and icons is included at the end of this newsletter.
This release begins with a feature on Bordeaux, dividing them first by Left and Right Bank then further by appellation. It then carries on with the familiar country listings.
Château Grand-Puy-Lacoste 2004
AOC Pauillac, 5e Cru $65.00 (669622)
Put this away at least five years, then drink it over the following five to ten. You'll enjoy lovely complexity in the fruit, with ripe dark berries and raspberry to the fore, fine tannins, solid medium weight, and a lovely smooth texture. All the components are in place, and all they need is a little time to harmonize. The wine itself will harmonize with grilled or roast lamb. (RP)
Château Lalande 2003
AOC Saint-Julien, Cru Bourgeois $38.95 (43893)
This fairly plush, well-flavoured wine is drinking well now and will continue to do so for the next three or four years, if not a bit longer. It delivers solid and quite complex flavours of dark berries and good acid balance, sometimes a concern in wines from this vintage. It's a perfect accompaniment for grilled and roasted red meats. (RP)
Château Lynch-Moussas 2003
AOC Pauillac, 5e Cru $53.95 (963256)
This is exceptionally well made and delicious, and well-worth the price. The flavours are solid from front to back and are dominated by ripe dark and red fruit and berries. It's finely balanced, with broad, ripe tannins and has an elegant, silky texture. It's drinkable now, but will show best in three or four years and then for another three or four after that. Pair it with a bone-in steak, grilled medium-rare. (RP)
Château Patache d'Aux 2004
AOC Médoc, Cru Bourgeois Supérieur $22.95 (998377)
A classy, quite elegant wine, rich and intensely-flavoured, with good structure. The fruit is complex, with black berries and dark plum to the fore, nice balance, and ripe tannins. It's drinking well now and will continue for another five years or longer. Enjoy it with a grilled rack of lamb. (RP)
Château Saint-Pierre 2004
AOC Saint-Julien, 4e Cru $59.00 (670109)
From complex fruit and some toastiness on the nose, the palate opens up a lovely range of dark fruit, berries and spice. This is concentrated and quite bold, with a velvety texture, and tannins that are sweet and ripe but still too prominent for current drinking. Tuck this away for another four or five years, and drink it during the following ten. It'll be wonderful with grilled or roasted red game meats. (RP)
Château La Tour de Mons 2003
AOC Margaux, Cru Bourgeois Supérieur $41.95 (43794)
Very delicious, quite classy and elegant, richly-flavoured and textured, this is a natural for well-seasoned red meat dishes, such as hearty beef and lamb stews. Look for flavours of blueberry, blackberry, and black cherry, with notes of spice and tar. The tannins are ripe and sleek, the texture is silky, and it's drinking now through the next five years. (RP)
Ségla 2003
AOC Margaux $51.95 (713263)
This is the second wine of Ch. Rauzan-Ségla, and it represents very good value. You'll find concentrated, well-structured flavours of dark fruit and berries, a plush texture, sweet tannins, and excellent balance. Overall, it delivers elegance and some delicacy despite the fullness of the flavours, but I would hold it a couple of years before opening it. Then it will go very well with grilled lamb. (RP)
Château de Cruzeau Blanc 2004
AOC Pessac-Léognan $22.95 (966010)
You'll find plenty of complexity in this delicious blend, with quite rich pear, apple and citrus flavours to the fore. It's smooth-textured and mouth-filling, with a broad band of acidity that provides an excellent complement to the fruit. Drink it with grilled white fish in a cream-based sauce. (RP)
Château Côte Montpezat 2001
AOC Côtes de Castillon $19.95 (45658)
This is the oldest vintage in the release, and the wine is starting to show age in its colour and flavour profile. It's still concentrated and the fruit holds the sweetness of it core, but the secondary notes are shifting to dried herbs and leather. But the grip is still firm, and this will keep for many years yet. You can enjoy it now with well-seasoned grilled red meats. (RP)
Château Certan Marzelle 2005
AOC Pomerol $65 (671792)
This is going to be beautiful in three or four years and it shows the winning combination of Pomerol and Merlot. There's huge complexity here, from the layered, rich dark fruit to the range of spices, herbs, and notes of coffee, smoke and tar. Resist any temptation to drink it now, but sometime between 2010 and 2015 open it with a fine hunk of red meat, well-seasoned and grilled medium-rare. (RP)
Château Haut-Colombier 2005
AOC Premières Côtes de Blaye $17.95 (43802)
The less-known Bordeaux appellations (like this one) often turn out astonishing value, and kudos to Vintages' buyers for finding some of them. This has everything you want, from good structure, layered and complex fruit, a nice seam of acidity, firm tannins, and an edgy texture that makes you think food. It's a wine for all seasons, so buy enough to drink (now to 2010) with grilled lamb, whether in the dark of winter or on the summer patio. (RP)
Château au Pont de Guitres 2003
AOC Lalande-de-Pomerol $27.95 (45666)
As the product code suggests, this is a hell of a good wine, again from a less-known appellation--in this case a satellite of much-vaunted (and expensive) Pomerol. The dark fruit aromas and flavours (plum, berries) are dense and sweet, and accented with light spiciness. Smooth-textured and manageably tannic, it's great drinking now (with the usual red meats) and over the next two or three years. (RP)
Château Vray Croix de Gay 2004
AOC Pomerol $62.00 (672204)
Here's a wine for cellaring. It needs a little more time to knit--say three years--and it will then hold a good ten years. So 2010-2020 sounds about right. The fruit (dense, dark plum to the fore, with savoury notes) is broad and deep, it has medium-full weight, a good line of acidity, and gripping tannins. Once it all comes together, it will be delicious with a grilled strip loin steak. (RP)
Christian Moueix Saint-Emilion 2003
AOC Saint-Emilion $19.95 (979955)
The bottle I tasted showed some fading in the colour, but the flavours were fresh. Look for fairly concentrated dark plum and raspberries with some spiciness and a hint of oak. It has medium weight, a very pleasant tangy texture, and quite firm tannins. It's a pleasure to drink now and will drink well for another three or four years. (RP)
Cline 'Ancient Vines' Zinfandel 2005
Contra Costa County $18.95 (719211)
Spiced black berry and cherry fruit aromas drift off the lifted nose of this round and ready Zin. It's medium weight, nicely textured and fully-flavoured. Expect jammy, warm (14.5% alcohol) slightly cooked fruit, including raspberry and prune. There's also good acidity providing a moderating balance. The finish is lengthy, layering on hints of mocha and vanilla. Pair with red meat from the bar b que or a hearty stew. (VH)
Francis Coppola 'Silver Label' Pinot Noir 2006
Monterey County $27.95 (047720)
If you don't like the characteristics (aromas, flavours) of Pinot Noir, you may enjoy this; it has virtually none of them. Aromas of berry and cherry fruit are present. Look for a medium-bodied, juicy and round red with no discernible tannin and very nice balance--the fruit, acidity and tannins are all in harmony. You'll find plum and cherry fruit on the palate and finish. Pleasant sipped on its own and pairs nicely with pork tenderloin. (VH)
Gallo 'Frei Ranch' Zinfandel 2003
Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma $34.95 (555599)
The nose is quite smoky with undertones of aromatic bitters. You'll find this medium bodied, nicely textured and not over the top as many Zins are. In spite of the 14.5% alcohol, it's neither jammy nor sweet, offering moderate fruit flavours--black plum, black currant and spicy cherries--and a medium-length finish of berry fruit and red licorice. Drink now. (VH)
Cline Cellars 'Red Truck' 2004
California $15.95 (693903)
This is a terrific buy and well worth a multiple purchase. The nose provides a perfect segue--look for aromas of juicy black ripe cherry fruit, pepper and spice. The flavours explode on the palate with a gusher of black plum, black ripe cherry and a moderating dollop of tanginess for balance. The finish is quite lengthy and layers on some delicious chocolate and spicy notes. Drinking well now, you could also tuck some away for next summer. This earned its final half-star on value. (VH)
Familia Zuccardi Q. Tempranillo 2003
Mendoza $20.95 (973503)
More closely associated with the Spanish wine region Rioja, the Tempranillo grape appears equally at home in Argentina. This would benefit from a one hour decant; it got better with each sip and spit, even after a very few seconds in the glass. This offered alluring aromas and flavours of black currant and bramble berry with interesting hints of black licorice and earthy notes. Despite the 14.5 % alcohol (almost the norm now, pity) this remained very nicely balanced and not over-the-top in any way. (VH)
Jacques & François Lurton Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
Uco Valley, Mendoza $14.95 (591735)
Smoky and oaky aromatics drift off the glass of this Cab that's in need of a couple of more years in your cellar. It opens with subdued, but enticing aromas of spice, mint and black ripe berry fruit. You'll notice grippy and grainy tannins on the palate that are complemented by black cherry and cassis flavours. These carry through to the medium-length finish. Drink 2010 to 2015 with steak, grilled rare to medium-rare . (VH)
Valdivieso Reserva Syrah 2005
Central Valley $17.95 (45153)
This is an absolutely delicious Syrah that over-delivers on price in every respect. The fruit is plush, rich and concentrated, with black cherry and berries nicely accented with spice, black pepper and a hint of toasty oak. There's complexity and a great seam of acidity that lends a tangy texture and makes it a great partner to well-seasoned grilled red meats. Drink it now and over the next year or two. (RP)
[
Viu Manent Reserva Carmenère 2005
Colchagua Valley $14.95 (45161)
Look for a lot of complexity in this very well-made Carmenère. Along with the rich, dark plum flavours, you'll find notes of coffee, chocolate, herbs and spices. They add up to a delicious mouthful of wine that has a full, smooth texture enhanced by a nice line of acidity. Pour it with roasted red meats. (RP)
McHenry Hohnen Vintners Sauvignon Blanc / Semillon 2005
Margaret River, Western Australia $20.95 (039370)
(Previously reviewed in Winecurrent) Co-owner David Hohnen, a Margaret River pioneer, founded Cape Mentelle and Cloudy Bay. With winemaker daughter Freya and brother-in-law Murray McHenry, this venture could be a three-peat. Aromas of gooseberry and melon waft from this 50:50 blend. The medium to full-bodied flavours and textures are an explosion of tangy citrus and spiced yellow plum. The clean and refreshing finish is fruit-forward and packs a zingy punch. Perfect for sipping on its own or paired to grilled seafood. (VH)
Elderton Barossa 'Ode to Lorraine' Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz/Merlot 2002
Barossa Valley, South Australia $39.95 (976423)
Elderton is at the top of their game wine after wine, vintage after vintage. Inky-dark, almost opaque in the glass, revel in the dense and concentrated aromas and flavours of juicy black cherry, vanilla and cassis along with tarry and toasty notes. The tannins are ripe and perceptible, but provide ageing potential. This is medium to full bodied, gorgeously textured and deftly balanced, combining power with elegance and finesse. It's worth more than the asking price and will drink gracefully until 2015. (VH)
Greg Norman Estates Shiraz/Cabernet 2005
Limestone Coast, South Australia $24.95 (586156)
You'll discover gobs of rich, concentrated and sweet (15% alcohol), warm fruit--cassis, bramble berry and spicy plum in this red blend. There's a generous ladle of moderating acidity and ripe tannins to provide great balance and to keep it away from jammy. The finish is medium in length and provides interest with its addition of chocolate and minty undertones. You can enjoy this now until 2011with any manner of grilled red meat or a rich hearty stew like lamb daube. (VH)
Leasingham Bin 61 Shiraz 2004
Clare Valley, South Australia $25.95 (448241)
This will join the many vintages I have of this in my cellar and provide exquisite drinking 2009 to 2015. The aromas and flavours are layered and luxurious. Look for smoky and toasty aromas that are punctuated by lovely hits of pepper, spice and ripe, red and black berry fruit. The flavours of black currant, cassis and mulberry are melded beautifully with perceptible tannin and moderating acidity. The finish layers on a generous helping of ripe fruit and eucalyptus. It will warrant 5 stars with age, and is worthy of a three or six bottle purchase. (VH)
Penfolds 'Bin 138' Old Vine Grenache/Shiraz/Mourvèdre 2005
Barossa Valley, South Australia $29.95 (468637)
As the Vintages catalogue suggests, it's more in the style of a Rhône wine rather than South Australian--it's not over-loaded with jammy fruit, but rather has moderating tanginess and acidity. It's also a typical Penfolds offering--delicious, deftly balanced and extremely well made. Look for red cherry and red currant flavours to provide tang on the palate while there's a nice touch of spice, currant and sweet black plum on the finish. Lovely on its own (glass after glass) it also pairs beautifully with spicy meat or pasta dishes with a tomato-based sauce. (VH)
Wakefield Shiraz 2005
Clare Valley, South Australia $17.95 (943787)
There are plenty of fruit flavours here and they're balanced quite nicely with good acidity, a result of those cooler nights in the Clare. Look for a lifted nose of black licorice and red field berry aromas that morph into a fruit forward attack on the palate of red cherry and ripe juicy black plum flavours. It shows good weight and texture, is beautifully balanced and sports a warm (14.5% alcohol) finish. (VH)
Astrolabe Sauvignon Blanc 2006
Marlborough $21.95 (10421)
Every now and again, I tire of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, and then I taste one that revives my interest. Astrolabe did just that by delivering a refreshing mouthful of fresh citrus fruit and passion fruit that's both intense and delicate. The texture has all the crispness that you look for in the variety, and the balance is finely managed. This is a stand-out Sauvignon Blanc that's a great partner for the usual bivalve suspects and for any seafood served with fresh lemon or lime. (RP)
Domaine des Aubuisieres Vouvray Cuvée de Silex 2006
AOC Vouvray $16.95 (057042)
Although 'Silex' is French for flint or quartz, this wine is soft, approachable and warm. Honeycomb and floral aromas waft off the glass while the luscious flavours include citrus, orange rind and white peach. There's enough tanginess for balance and the lengthy luxurious finish is so refreshing it will compel you to come back for more. Lovely when sipped on its own or taken as an aperitif, it also pairs well with steamed mussels or seared scallops. (VH)
Château Mont-Redon Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc 2005
AOC Châteauneuf-du-Pape $33.95 (43133)
You'll enjoy the lovely weight and texture of this wine, which is medium-full bodied and smooth with a slight edginess. They harmonize beautifully and provide a great frame for the quite intense yet fine flavours of white peach and apricot pit accented by floral and light honey notes. It goes very well with lightly spiced seafood and chicken dishes. (RP)
Bouchard Père & Fils Grèves Vigne de L'Enfant Jésus Beaune Premier Cru 2005
AOC Beaune Premier Cru $104.95 (043257)
Burgundy-lovers alert; this is a superlative wine from a 'must buy' vintage. The nose is extremely aromatic delivering gorgeous aromas of black berry fruit--raspberry and currant--with hints of smoke. The flavours fairly attack the palate with robust hits of cherry, raspberry and earthiness to the fore. The finish replays these flavours with an added dimension of spice and mocha. This glorious mouthful of wine has a creamy texture and a ripe tannin structure that provides good grip and the ability to age another five to eight years. Fewer than 2000 cases made and in short supply. (VH)
Domaine Belle 'Les Pierelles' Crozes-Hermitage 2004
AOC Crozes-Hermitage $23.95 (41921)
Think of this when you're planning to grill lamb chops or a rack of lamb. It delivers quite concentrated flavours dominated by ripe, dark cherries, along with notes of peppery spice and herbs. It has a good, tangy texture, just the right level of acidity for the fruit, and a decent finish. It's a good price for a well-made Crozes-Hermitage. (RP)
Royal Tokaji Furmint 2005
Tokaji $12.95 (653220)
Although better known as the variety responsible for Hungary's iconic sweet wine, Furmint can make lovely table wine. This example delivers fresh fruit in the apple-pear zones, with hints of spice and honey. Medium weight and well balanced, it goes well with lightly-spiced seafood, chicken and pork. (RP)
Domaine du Castel 'C' Blanc du Castel 2005
Judean Hills $37.95 (36210)
This Chardonnay has a lot of the power of a Napa Chard, but the structure of a southern Burgundy. Look for nicely-managed flavours of ripe peach and pear, with notes of toasty oak. The texture is plush and smooth and the acidity is clean and refreshing. It's an excellent partner for roast turkey or fruit-stuffed pork fillet. (RP)
Pieropan Soave Classico 2006
DOC Soave Classico $17.95 (946848)
This is certainly a cut above its contemporaries with a gorgeous mouth feel, medium weight and quite rich flavours. The aromas are quite muted, mineral and slate, while the flavours offer a mouthful of tangy citrus and ripe apple. There's good acidity present, helping it stay refreshing and clean on the finish, and fashioning the perfect pairing with grilled freshwater fish under a drizzle of lemon. (VH)
I Castei Costamaran Valpolicella Classico Superiore Ripasso 2004
DOC Valpolicella Classico Superiore $16.95 (972406)
The 'ripasso' method increases the flavor and complexity in basic Valpolicella. The Valpolicella wine is re-passed over the drained must of an Amarone wine. This one offers a lifted nose of smoke and oak then attacks the palate with tangy sour cherry flavours. The finish adds on even more tanginess as this is in a more traditional style--not sweet, not jammy, not overly fruit forward. This pairs perfectly with pasta covered in a tomato-based sauce. (VH)
Tedeschi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2003
DOC Amarone della Valpolicella Classico $39.95 (433417)
This delivers huge mouthfuls of intense aromas and flavours from a marvelous and meticulous wine making technique--the grapes are dried for four months before being pressed. It's then aged two to three years in barrel and a further six months in bottle. Expect alluring aromas of smoke, aromatic bitters and dried, crushed berry fruit. The flavours are carried along on a super silky frame. They're a marvelous mélange of espresso roast, ripe juicy black cherry, black currant and spice box. Try with hearty stew like osso bucco or at the end of a meal with aged hard cheeses. (VH)
Aveleda Follies Vinho Verde 2006
DOC Alvarinho $15.95 (059048)
This may not be the absolute perfect time of year to be releasing this (where was it last spring?), but it's so good. The nose is quite lifted, offering grape-like, spicy and rosewater aromas. The mouth feel is gorgeous, almost creamy, while the flavours are all about citrus, pear and tanginess. It's nicely balanced, very good value and is looking around for a suitable partner; pair it with lemon veal, lemon chicken or seafood drizzled with freshly-squeezed lemon. (VH)
Juan Gil Tinto 2005
DO Jumilla $21.95 (001677)
Mint, cherry and leather aromas form the exuberant nose of the classy red. This wine is rich, dark, dense and concentrated. Expect a generous mouth full of cassis and mulberry flavours plus great structure from the ripe, but still perceptible tannins. It finishes dry clean and refreshing by adding on a ladle of moderating tanginess plus a lovely hint of mocha. Beautifully balanced and classy, this has its price to quality ratio skewed well in your favour. Drink now to 2012. (VH)
Cheers, Vic and Rod
We use the following symbols when rating wines:
| Wines achieving nirvana |
| | Wines of excellence |
| | Wines well worth trying |
 | Wines below average, but drinkable |
 | Wines better avoided, unless desperate |
 | Represents a half star |
 | We both agree —a brilliant wine! |
| Drink now and over the next 2 years |
| Drink now and over the next 5 years |
| Place in cellar |