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An explanation of the scoring system and icons is included at the end of this newsletter.

This release begins with a section on Sauvignon Blanc from around the world then carries on with the usual country-by-country listings. Rod was away for this Vintages Release as he was tasting and spitting his way through some of California's wine regions. Rod contributes reviews to the sections that follow the reviews from this Vintages Release and you'll not want to miss them. Vic tasted and spat through the entire Vintages Release and his reviews of the best of them follow.

New Zealand

****1/2 drink now
Coopers Creek Sauvignon Blanc 2005
Marlborough, South Island $16.95 (957407)
(Previously reviewed in Winecurrent) Expect great typicity with gooseberry and grassy aromas then wonderfully robust tropical fruit and citrus flavours that wash over the palate in waves. This is clean, dry and refreshing throughout. The finish is citrus and tang, calling for seared tuna with a slice of lemon drizzled over. At an attractive price. (VH)

***** drink now
Kim Crawford SP Spitfire Sauvignon Blanc 2006
Marlborough, South Island $29.95 (038240)
This opens with extremely rich, powerful pungent aromas of spicy gooseberry and nettles. The flavours are equally intense-herbaceous citrus, spiced pear and tangy green apple. Sauvignon Blanc can produce vibrant fruit from new vines and many winemakers say you're lucky to ever get that quality from them again. This is a whopper of a wine you won't want to miss. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Mount Riley Sauvignon Blanc 2006
Marlborough, South Island $18.95 (981670)
Look for the grass, nettles and gooseberry aromas that mark this as a Marlborough SB. The flavours are expressive-lime, pineapple and notes of guava, and it's medium textured and quite smooth and velvety. This has enough guts to pair with strong and salty foods like smoked salmon and capers or goat cheese over mesculan greens in a light vinaigrette. It also drinks extremely well on its own. (VH)

France

***1/2 drink now
Domaine Delaunay Sauvignon de Touraine 2006
AOC Touraine $18.95 (030650)
Herbaceous and sweet floral notes waft off this light-bodied offering. There's a variety of delicate flavours-citrus, apple, pear and quince among them. It's pretty well balanced with a cleansing finish. This would be better matched to lighter-styled and lightly-herbed appetizers like crab dip on toasts. (VH)

California

***1/2 drink now
De Loach Sauvignon Blanc 2003
Russian River Valley $18.95 (034769)
This opens with a fairly-subdued nose of floral and citrus aromas. It's light- to medium-bodied with a gloriously creamy texture, unusual for the grape and due, as it says in the Vintages catalogue, to partial malolactic fermentation and some time in oak. Expect white grapefruit and lemon flavours through to the creamy, yet zesty, finish. (VH)

Chile

***1/2 drink now
Carmen Reserve Sauvignon Blanc 2006
Casablanca Valley $13.95 (031096)
An expressive nose of gooseberry, new leather and grassy notes jump from the glass. You can expect a medium-bodied well-textured white with flavours of grapefruit and peach that is ably complemented by a good spine of acidity. This also offers good balance and a medium-length finish. Pour this alongside seared scallops and steamed prawns generously sprinkled with freshly-squeezed lemon. (VH)

Canada

**** drink now
Henry of Pelham Sauvignon Blanc (Vintages Essential)
VQA Niagara Peninsula $15.00 (430546)
Gooseberry and mineral aromas form the expressive profile of this medium-bodied SB. The bracing spine of acidity is balanced off with pineapple and citrus flavours from the first sip to the medium-length and well-balanced finish. It's clean, refreshing and just the wine for sipping on warm summer days. It also offers good value. (VH)

Italy

**** drink now
Malvira' Sauvignon Blanc 2005
DOC Langhe $22.95 (030205)
This is atypical Sauvignon Blanc, but a lovely wine nonetheless. It's a warm and friendly wine with a creamy texture, a medium to full body, and a mélange of aromas and flavours that include-apple compote, spicy pear, peach pie filling and nutty (toasted almond) notes. The finish is lengthy, refreshing and clean. It would pair well with warm crab cakes or grilled chicken on toasts with a dab of coriander dip. (VH)

**** drink now
Jermann Sauvignon Blanc 2005
IGT Venezia Giulia $31.95 (036269)
The nose is pungent and herbaceous with aromas of gooseberry and nettles, but the texture is creamy and smooth as satin. The flavour profile is all in the zesty zone-pineapple, lemon and lime, and it provides a huge mouthful of them on its medium- to full-bodied frame. It also provides a warm and spicy finish. Pour this alongside seafood paella. (VH)

Spain

***1/2 drink now
Marqués de Riscal Sauvignon Blanc 2006
DO Rueda $14.95 (976514)
You'll discover many 'green' aromas off the nose-parsley, grass and sharp nettles among them. The flavours are well-balanced, almost understated, mostly grapefruit and citrus. And then there is this huge hit of lime on the tangy finish. This'll be a popular wine served with scallop and prawn ceviche. This is fairly priced. (VH)

Champagne

**** drink now
Lanson Brut Rosé Rose Label
AOC Champagne $29.95 375 mL (032581): $54.95 750 mL (172130)
This is a lovely sparkling rosé with expressive aromas and flavours of spicy cranberry and red currants. The mousse is quite good and the texture light- to medium-bodied. Red berry flavours and citrussy tanginess coalesce on the palate, all in harmony and providing good balance. The finish is clean and refreshing. It's the perfect aperitif wine or could easily be served with light appetizers. (VH)

Sparkling wine

France


***1/2 drink now
Domaine Huet Brut Vouvray 1999
AOC Vouvray $25.95 (037002)
This is definitely in drink-me-now mode as the nose and flavours have become influenced by its age. It's still fresh enough to be enjoyed though, and the creamy mouth feel alone is a worthy experience. Look for peach and apple flavours and a medium-length finish. There's still a good attack, fine bubbles and balancing acidity. Good on its own or poured with spicy chicken kebabs. (VH)

Fortified Wine

Sherry


**** drink now
Williams & Humbert "Walnut Brown" Rare Old Sherry
DO Jerez, Spain $11.95 (437467)
(Previously reviewed in Winecurrent) This amber-coloured, green tinged liquid is pure ambrosia in a glass. Three grapes, Palomino, Moscatel and Pedro Ximénez, coalesce to deliver a scrumptious mouthful of toffee, nut and raisin flavours. The balancing acidity is well in the background, but does prevent it from becoming flabby. This is a great buy from a premium Sherry producer. Serve chilled with confidence and crème caramel. At an extremely attractive price. (VH)

Canada: white

**** drink now
Château des Charmes Chardonnay 2002
VQA St. David's Bench $20.15 (430991)
This provides a gorgeous creamy mouthful of ripe pear, apple compote and almonds within a medium-bodied frame. You'll find more of the same with some added notes of vanilla and spice on the round finish. It's plush and ready to go, either sipped on its own or served beside steamed lobster dipped in clarified butter. A lovely drop. (VH)

**** drink now
Strewn Vidal Icewine 2002
VQA Niagara Peninsula $24.95 (467746) 200 mL
(Previously reviewed in Winecurrent) Not cloying, not overpowering and not "just another icewine". This international gold medal winner has panache. The honey, pineapple and mango aromas lead to a medium-viscosity treasure trove of raisins, caramel and fresh fig flavours that are balanced off with perfect acidity. A stunning gift for that special oenophile. Try with crème brûlée. (VH)

Canada: red

***1/2 drink now
Lakeview Cellars Gamay Noir 2004
VQA Niagara Peninsula $14.95 (433672)
There's plenty going on in this medium-framed fruit-forward red. Although it's made from the same grape, this wine has more structure and finesse than many French Beaujolais. Look for toast and cherry aromas then lovely fruit flavours-spiced currant and dried cranberry. The finish sports a balancing zing, finishing clean and refreshing. Sip on its own and serve slightly chilled. (VH)

California: white

***1/2 drink now
Benziger Chardonnay 2005
Los Carneros $19.95 (034777)
You'll discover lots of smoke and oak on the aromas of this medium-bodied Chard. The robust flavours consist of roasted nuts, herbs and spice along with apple and pear. There's also a slate nuance on the finish along with good tang. This would be poured best alongside herbed and spiced chicken. Beer can chicken with a spicy dry rub would pair nicely. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Rodney Strong Chalk Hill Chardonnay 2005
Sonoma County $24.95 (275552)
Robust and complex with full-bore fruit flavours, this is a cracker of a wine. The nose is fairly subdued, but pleasant, offering sweet apple aromas. Look for flavours of apple compote, lemon and nectarine. The texture's quite creamy and the finish is lengthy and extremely well balanced. Beautiful on its own, you could also easily pair this to a weighty dish, like roast turkey with savoury stuffing and all the fixings. (VH)

California: red

****1/2 drink now
Hess 'Allomi' Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
Napa Valley $32.95 (906420)
This is from a very classy producer who recently bought one of Australia's premium wineries, Peter Lehmann. This wine is delicious, from the aromatic nose of mint and berry to the gorgeous finish of moderating tang and sweet black berry fruit. The senses are treated to a mélange of fruit-forward flavours including currant, cassis and chocolate-covered Bing cherries. No need for food, savour on its own. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Kunde Zinfandel 2002
Sonoma Valley $19.95 (965921)
This is a wine for lovers of big, jammy Zins, and from a premium producer whose wines we see far too seldom. Look for expressive flavours of sweet raspberry jam and black cherry compote. The tannins are ripe and non-obtrusive, but still provide structure. The finish is more of the same-sweet ripe fruit that is lip-smacking good. If you go easy on the sugar, this would be a wonderful match with cherry claffouti. (VH)

Chile: white

**** drink now
Santa Carolina Barrica Selection Chardonnay 2005
DO Casablanca Valley $14.95 (928580)
Smoke and toasty notes mingle with vanilla aromas on this full-bodied Chard. Look for plenty of fruit flavours-spiced apple compote, peach pie filling and vanilla. It's plush, but there's enough zing to keep it from flabby. This would be a nice match-up to chicken Kiev or grilled chicken strips alongside grilled veggies. It's also well-priced. (VH)

Australia: white

****1/2 drink now
Yalumba 'The Y Series' Viognier 2006
South Australia $15.95 (624502)
Wow! Sourced from vines older vines (some planted in 1980), this is a stunning wine, especially at the price. Floral (honeysuckle) and peach on the nose, the palate is treated to a creamily-textured and medium- to full-bodied mouthful of dazzling fruit flavours-citrus and tropical fruit to the fore. The finish is lengthy and spicy (musk and mixed incense). The price to quality ratio demands a multiple purchase. And be quick, you aren't the only person reading this. (VH)

Australia: red

****1/2 two glasses drink or cellar
Barossa Valley Estate Ebenezer Shiraz 2002
Barossa Valley, South Australia $39.95 (971705)
(Previously reviewed in Winecurrent) We both loved this 'beaut' from the folks that bring you E&E Black Pepper Shiraz. Coconut and ripe bramble berry aromas fashion the vibrant nose of this hugely concentrated, full-bodied red. Black plum and spice abound with ripe tannins providing good grip and structure. Well balanced and seamless in its fruit forward profile, this has the guts to go another 10 years. Try with rack of lamb and your very best friend. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Kangarilla Road Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
McLaren Vale, South Australia $20.95 (035121)
This'll sit in your glass inky black. You'll notice mint, cherry and chocolate on the nose while the juicy flavours are redolent of cassis and spicy black raspberry. It's full bodied with good grip and balancing acidity. It has the guts to go until 2012, but is approachable now, especially when paired to a strip loin, grilled rare to medium rare. (VH)

South Africa: white

**** drink now
Goats Do Roam White 2006
WO Western Cape $12.95 (943167)
This white blend opens with notes of floral and beeswax then delivers a gorgeously-textured and well-balanced mélange of flavours including lemon-lime, tropical fruit and yellow plum. It's medium- to full-bodied with a very long and spicy finish. There's complexity, balance and weight here. Don't you wait here before picking up an armful for summer quaffing. (VH)

France: white

**** drink now
Château Labouré-Roi Bourgogne Blanc Chardonnay 2005
AOC Bourgogne $18.95 (041053)
The lifted and alluring nose sports vanilla and fig aromas. Expect a pretty big mouthful of flavour-very ripe apple and pear among them. Medium to full bodied, it also delivers a lengthy and luxurious finish with great balance and more rich fruit flavours. This delicious wine could be enjoyed on its own or paired with roast chicken or steamed lobster. This offers great value. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Château Labouré-Roi Mersault Blanc 'Clos de la Baronne' 2006
AOC Meursault $49.95 (041087)
You're not just paying for the name, this delivers the goods and is worth the price. Floral and nutty aromas provide the segue to this medium- to full-bodied gem. You'll revel in the gorgeously creamily-textured and glorious cornucopia of fruit flavours, apple, pear and peach included. This is extremely well balanced, not over-oaked, and delivers a consistent stream of flavours through to the medium-length finish that layers on spice and hints of vanilla. (VH)

France: red

***1/2 drink now
Château Roquetaillade la Grange 2005
AOC Graves $19.95 (193102)
This is a well-priced and well-paced blend offering fair value. Look for cherry and toasty notes on the aromatic profile and on the palate. Almost restrained, it offers cherry and red berry flavours in a round and ready style that's delivered on a light to medium frame. Everything is in good balance and the finish is medium in length and fruit-forward. Give it a go with pork or veal chops, delicately herbed and spiced. (VH)

**** drink now
Château la Commanderie 2003
AOC St.-Estèphe, Cru Bourgeois $29.95 (035774)
This is ready to drink and shows the results, in a positive way, of that blistering hot 2003 vintage. It's a dark, almost opaque, wine in the glass while the aromas drifting off are of sweet and ripe, dark berry fruit. Expect juicy black cherry and cassis flavours and a hint of mint. It's medium to full bodied, well balanced and delivers a lengthy and fruit-forward finish. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Château les Grands Maréchaux 2003
AOC Premières Côtes de Blaye $24.95 (036145)
It opens with an atypical nose of rhubarb and leather, but delivers a delicious mouthful rich juicy flavour. Look for rich, dark, delicious and complex flavours-Bing cherry, black licorice, tar and bitter chocolate among them. It's medium bodied, offers good balance, a lengthy finish and enough structure from the ripe tannin to allow you to drink it now to 2011. (VH)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Domaine du Clos Verdy Chiroubles 2005
AOC Beaujolais $17.95 (453241)
This is straightforward Gamay, fruity and uncomplicated. Expect grapey aromas and more of the same simple flavours on the palate-grape, candied wine gum and good citrus acidity. It finishes with good tanginess making it a delightful partner with simple fare and tomato-based dishes - try lasagna or Swiss steak. Serve slightly chilled. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Mas des Bressades Cabernet/Syrah 2005
Vin de Pays du Gard $18.95 (712174)
Vintage after vintage, one of the best wine buys around. This deeply-coloured beauty is ready to drink and offers an expressive nose of spice, mint and mixed field berry. The gloriously rich and concentrated flavours of bramble berry, cassis, earthy notes and spice are delivered on a medium-bodied frame with good structure (ripe tannin) and moderating acidity. The finish is balanced, lengthy and layers on hints of tar and dark chocolate. Load up the cart; it won't be available for long. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Mas des Bressades Cuvée Excellence 2005
AOC Costières de Nîmes $16.95 (708750)
The traditional blend for this is a fairly even split between Syrah and Grenache with a small amount of Cinsault. This one delivers a fairly subdued nose of plum and spice. The flavours are all about red berry and more black plum, this time with a hint of spice. This is medium bodied and delivers a nicely-balanced finish. There are perceptible, but acceptable tannins and it provides a drinking window now to 2012. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Saint-Benoit Châteauneuf-du-Pape Grande Garde 2004
AOC Châteauneuf-du-Pape $33.95 (424226)
You may find this a tad rustic, but it's a lovely drop, all the same. All the parts are there, they just haven't knitted together, as yet. It's a blend of 39% Grenache, 33% Mourvèdre, 22% Syrah and 6% Cinsault. You'll find a wild and lifted nose-garrigue (wild herbs), tar and gamey notes, then good grip from perceptible tannin and delicious flavours of black cherry, tar and chocolate. Not everyone's cup of tea, but I loved it. You could drink it now with strongly-flavoured dishes-venison or spicy beef. May be better to cellar for a couple of years and drink through 2014, though. (VH)

****1/2 cellar
Château du Cèdre le Prestige Cahors 2004
AOC Cahors $25.95 (969212)
If you're looking to add to your cellar, this red blend (90% Malbec and 10% Tannat) will be a lovely addition. It's rich and robust and in a firm tannic grip. You'll find lovely red fruit and mint off the nose and rich concentrated plum and currant flavours on your palate. This has a lengthy fruit-forward finish. Don't even think of opening it until 2011, then drink over the following five years. (VH)

Germany: white

****1/2 drink or cellar
Georg Müller Riesling Kabinett Feinherb 2005
QmP Rheingau, Hattenheimer Schützenhaus $18.95 (033514)
The nose is quite subtle, floral and mineral, but you'll revel in the stunning flavours and creamy texture on your palate. The expressive mélange of flavours include nectarine, peach and fig with nutty undertones. They seem to roll over your senses in waves. The finish is stunning as this is where the sweet fruit and zesty acidity form a lovely partnership. You're left with a glorious aftertaste and a strong desire for more. Pick up a few and pair with spicy Asian cuisine, now to 2012. (VH)

Italy: white

***1/2 drink now
Attems Pinot Grigio 2006
DOC Collio $20.95 (707950)
The Collio wine region is found in northeastern Italy on the Slovenian border. Sweet jasmine aromas open this medium-bodied white then it delivers a delightful flavour profile of fig, citrus, apple with nutty notes. It has good texture, deft balance and a lengthy flavourful and refreshing finish. It would be a lovely partner to a grilled freshwater fish like rainbow trout or pickerel. (VH)

Italy: red

****1/2 drink or cellar
Batasiolo Barolo Corda Della Briccolina 2000
DOCG Barolo $59.95 (992271)
Those in love with big Italian reds will flock to this. It delivers as much you could hope for-cellaring potential, delicious fruit flavours, moderating acidity and a lengthy finish. Expect a nose that is pure dark chocolate then a mélange of juicy and zesty fruit flavours-black plum, currant and sour cherry. It's medium bodied, offers a well balanced finish and would pair exceptionally well with osso bucco and mushroom risotto, now to 2018. (VH)

***** drink or cellar
Castello di Querceto la Corte 2001
IGT Colli della Toscana Centrale $55.95 (938829)
Class, elegance and charm coalesce in this red wine; it's a thing of beauty. The nose is ethereal-lilac, currant and roses. The flavours are complex and robust-dark chocolate, Bing cherry and spiced black plum. The overall experience is of a wine with perfect balance between perceptible grip, full bore fruit and moderating zing. The finish is lengthy and luxurious. Savour on its own now, after a 3 hour decant, or cellar until 2012 and drink until 2018. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Fonterutoli Chianti Classico 2005
DOCG Chianti Classico $18.95 375 mL (599779): $27.95 750 mL (977629)
This is well-made, medium bodied and a delight to drink. Look for floral and tobacco notes on the nose and heaps of tangy sour cherry and black currant flavours on your palate. It also offers a lovely, and unusual for Chianti, full-textured mouth feel. It has a lengthy finish, mostly tangy cherries and black plum, and would pair well with lasagna, pizza or pasta in a tomato-based sauce. The 750 mL bottle provides good value. (VH)

Spain: red

****1/2 drink or cellar
Raimat Abadia Crianza 2003
DO Costers del Segre $15.95 (935460)
This is a lovely wine regardless of cost, but exceptional at this low price. It opens with lifted aromas of smoke, toast and oak then delivers a huge mouthful of juicy flavour-red licorice, sweet black cherry and spiced black currant to the fore. It offers a replay of these on the lengthy finish. There's enough tannin for structure and good zing for balance. Making certain I've already purchased mine; pick up what's left. (VH)

New in the LCBO

**** drink now
Ruffino 'Il Ducale' 2003
IGT Toscana $19.95 (27797)
This is the first vintage of 'Il Ducale', a blend (this year) of 80% Sangiovese, 15% Merlot and 5% "other varieties." It's packed with rich, sweet, dark fruit and berries (plum, cherry, blackberries are dominant) with lots of spiciness and a decent tannic grip. It owes some of its intensity to the very hot 2003 vintage, and it'll be interesting to see how the following vintages compare. In the meantime, this is a delicious drop that goes great with red meat from your barbecue. (RP)

**** drink now
Twin Fin Chardonnay 2005
California $13.95 (38315)
This opens with a fragrant nose of tropical fruit, vanilla and spice. It's medium-bodied and zesty. Expect a mélange of fruit flavours-citrus, peach and apple to the fore. It's all nicely balanced, nothing overdone, and finishes fruit-forward and refreshing. This matches up well with roast chicken, or chicken grilled on the bar b que. A well-priced offering. (VH)

*** drink now
Twin Fin Pinot Grigio 2005
California $13.95 (38323)
You may have tried the reds from this hip and happening label, and now there's a couple of whites that have been added to their listings in the LCBO. This one is light bodied with delicate aromas of floral and spicy apple and flavours in the citrus and green apple zones. It's dry and crisp and looking for a cuisine partner. Try it with grilled tuna that has been generously showered with freshly-squeezed lemon. (VH)

New from Ontario wineries

****1/2 drink or cellar
Daniel Lenko "Signature" Chardonnay 2004
VQA Niagara Peninsula $39.95
Lenko's 'Signature' Chardonnay is made from his oldest vines in select years. What you get from the 2004 vintage is a stunningly complex wine that shows lovely sweet and rich fruit (peach, some tropical) with drifting layers of crème brûlée, caramel and soft spices. It's full bodied and plush, and has impressive structure. Drinking well now, it's good for another four or more years. Order from This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. (RP)

**** drink or cellar
Flat Rock Cellars Pinot Noir 2005
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $19.95
This is a well-made, well-priced and very attractive Pinot Noir. The flavours are dominated by sweet black and red cherry, strawberry, and savoury notes. Look for an underlying earthiness that gives added complexity. Medium bodied and nicely balanced with good acidity and tannic grip, this makes a great partner with grilled lamb chops. Order from www.flatrockcellars.com. (RP)

****1/2 drink now
Flat Rock Cellars Riesling 2006
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $16.95
This is a quite stunning Riesling, delicious in flavours and vibrant in texture. Look for lovely aromas and flavours of peach and tropical fruit with lime and grapefruit-dominant acidity. It's off-dry and finely balanced with the style and character of a classic. Drink it with spicy appetizers or Asian dishes. Order from the winery at www.flatrockcellars.com. (RP)

**** drink or cellar
Hillebrand 'Trius' Red 2005
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95
The 'Trius' series from Hillebrand has earned a solid reputation for quality and value, and this 2005 Red adds to it. The 2005 vintage was difficult-a tough winter followed by a hot summer-and Hillebrand lost 80% of its grapes. What remained was high quality, as this 47% Cabernet Sauvignon, 43% Cabernet Franc and 10% Merlot blend shows. It delivers intense aromas and flavours of dark fruit (plum, berries) with notes of spice and chocolate. The texture is rich, smooth and full, and the tannins are grippy and sweet. The only downside: it's in short supply, so if you want to taste this, get your order in soon. Order from www.winecountryathome.com. (RP)

**** drink now
Hillebrand 'Trius' White 2006
VQA Niagara Peninsula $18.95
This the first Trius White, and it augurs exceptionally well for the new line. It's a blend of Gewürztraminer (33%), Riesling (30%), Pinot Gris (28%) and Chardonnay (9%) that more than delivers on flavour and elegance. The aromas and flavours are primarily in the peach and apricot zones, with attractive splashes of floral and spice. The flavours are quite delicate but they're well defined, and the overall effect is elegant and flavourful. A spine of clean acidity makes this a more-ish wine that drinks well by itself or with slightly spicy seafood and chicken dishes. Order from www.winecountryathome.com. (RP)

***1/2 drink now
Huff Estates Gamay 2005
VQA Ontario $32.95
This is a lovely Gamay from a Prince Edward County winery that's establishing a solid reputation. Look for lively flavours of tart and sweet cherries and berries, but don't expect anything light and frivolous. There's real depth and breadth to the flavours and texture here, and you'll find good spiciness and even some earthy smokiness. Drink it with grilled chicken and sweet vegetables. Order from This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. (RP)

**** drink or cellar
Mountain Road Wine Company Barrel Fermented Chardonnay 2003
VQA Beamsville Bench $16.15
This is very well made and makes a lovely partner for rich chicken and pork dishes, although it also goes well with grilled Atlantic salmon. The flavours are in the classic peach zone, with hints of tropical fruit, sweet pear and apple. It's full bodied and well balanced, with a rich, creamy texture, and it finishes very well. Order from This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. or 905 563 0745. (RP)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Mountain Road Wine Company Reserve Chardonnay 2003
VQA Beamsville Bench $26.15
This is a quite delicious Chardonnay, rich, plush and buttery, with delicious fruit complexity. Look for dominant aromas and flavours of ripe peach, along with yellow plum and some melon and tropical notes. It's well structured with a seam of clean acidity to balance the creamy richness, and it finishes long. Mountain Road is too-little known among Ontario wine-lovers. Check out their range as you order some of this at This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. or call 905 563 0745. (RP)

New in restaurants

****1/2 drink now
McManis Family Vineyards Viognier 2005
California $19.70
This is a richly-textured and flavourful Viognier fashioned by Ron and Jamie McManis, a husband and wife team that come from a long tradition of growing premium grapes. This is a gorgeous offering. Look for dazzling aromas of honey and floral notes then a flavour-packed mouthful of ripe nectarine and peach. The finish is extremely well balanced, finishing crisp and clean. I had mine at the popular Wellington Gastropub in Ottawa with seared scallops and it matched perfectly. Order by the case of 12 from The Robert Groh Agency at www.robgroh.com. (VH)

Cheers, Vic and Rod

Rating System

We use the following symbols when rating wines:

5 starsWines achieving nirvana
4 stars Wines of excellence
3 stars Wines well worth trying
2  stars Wines below average, but drinkable
1 star Wines better avoided, unless desperate
half star Represents a half star
2 glassesWe both agree —a brilliant wine!
drink nowDrink now and over the next 2 years
drink or cellarDrink now and over the next 5 years
cellarPlace in cellar