May 22, 2024 Newsletter
Special Feature: Black Bank Hill Vineyard
By Louise Boutin
In February, I attended the Canadian Culinary Championship (CCC) held in the National Capital for the third year. That weekend event features Canadian chefs previously selected through a regional competition, all converging in Ottawa to compete for the grand title of Best Canadian Chef. The event is always preceded by a media/trade wine tasting afternoon showcasing some of the best Canadian wines. This year, a novelty segment presented six emerging wineries selected by David Lawrason, National Wine Advisor for Canada’s Great Kitchen Party, organizer of the CCC.
The winery that stood out for me was Black Bank Hill in Beamsville, Ontario.
Vintner Taylor Emerson presented two wines from his portfolio: a 100% Syrah and a 100% Viognier that made me want to know more about the winery. The winemaking philosophy here focuses on estate-grown, hand-harvested fruit, single vineyard wines with minimal intervention, and quality-driven small production. The young vines are flourishing where the Beamsville aerodrome and runway stood more than a century ago, and you’ll find hints of this historic reference on some of the labels.
Below are reviews of selected wines Taylor and winemaker Jonathan McLean produce from the 22-acre vineyard planted in 2017 in the Lincoln Lakeshore Niagara appellation. The 2020 Pinot Noir, sourced from a Twenty-miles bench grower, is the exception for now. Future harvests should produce enough fruit to craft an estate-grown Pinot. With so many options of delicious cool-climate Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from the great Niagara producers, Taylor’s Syrah and Viognier, both varietals famous in the Northern Rhône Valley and rather uncommon in the Niagara region, really caught my eye and interest to the point that while in Hamilton for other business, I made the short 20-minute extra drive to visit Taylor, tour his cozy winery and tasting room, have a peek at the vineyard, and had a good chat about the joy but also the many challenges of owning a vineyard and finding your place in an already crowded wine region.
I keep saying that without passion, no one would survive in this demanding field. Despite the sacrifices and headaches that come with building a wine business from scratch, Taylor’s passion is obvious. This second career of his was well thought out, and this is where he wants to be. Teaming up with Jonathan McLean, who previously developed his wine making expertise over a decade in the Okanagan Valley, sounds like it was the right collaboration decision. The elegance and fruit concentration found in Black Bank Hill's wines show obvious winemaking skills and talent, quite impressive for such a young winery.
I honestly believe that Black Bank Hill has a bright future, in part because of its philosophy to go a bit off the beaten Niagara pathway, but even more because of the determination to craft small batch, quality wines truly representative of the Beamsville terroir.
Black Bank Hill wines are available at the Winery and can also be ordered on the website for home delivery.
Private Wine Tastings are also available by appointment.
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Black Bank Hill ’Runway White’ 2021
VQA Lincoln Lakeshore, Ontario $25.00 13.0% alcohol
This is an uncommon blend of barrel fermented viognier and chardonnay combined with stainless-steel fermented gewürztraminer and chenin blanc surprisingly getting along pretty well. While the French oak barrels were pre-used, they still convey quite a bit of nice wood character noticeable on the first nose—vanilla, caramel, spices—requiring extra swirling for the peach and citrus aromas to emerge. The palate is concentrated and rich with stone fruit flavours, salted butter character lifted with bright citrus acidity and kicks of spicy ginger lingering in the finish and aftertaste. Definitely an intriguing medium-full-bodied white to discover. Baked ham with cauliflower au gratin or butternut squash ravioli would make excellent pairings. (Louise Boutin)
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Black Bank Hill Estate Vineyard Viognier 2021
VQA Lincoln Lakeshore, Ontario $40.00 13.4% alcohol
Ripe nectarine, mango, beeswax and subtle orange blossom aromas is what you’ll find in this splendid 100% hand-harvested viognier, aged in neutral French oak barrels, on lees for 18 months. It is opulent on the palate with generous ripe orchard and tropical fruit flavours, perfect acidity and a nice chalky mineral layer that brings everything together. The finish is lingering on ginger notes and a mild balancing almond bitterness totally delicious. This is Northern-Rhône Condrieu caliber expected from much older vines and I can’t wait to see and taste future vintages. Absolutely delicious on its own but why not amplify the enjoyment and pair this exquisite medium-full-bodied white with lemon butter baked cod and a mango salsa. (Louise Boutin)
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Black Bank Hill ‘Runway Rosé’ 2022
VQA Lincoln Lakeshore, Ontario $25.00 12.9% alcohol
This rose-gold shaded, co-fermented blend of 94% cabernet franc and the rest merlot, hand-harvested at the property, opens on aromas of watermelon flesh and rind, savoury herbs and cantaloup. Roughly seven g/L of unfermented natural sugar contributes to the round texture and medium-body, offering red bell pepper jelly and strawberry flavours balanced with bright acidity, peppery and pleasant bitter notes. This rosé offers multiple pairing options at the table. Try heirloom tomato tartlets or ratatouille. (Louise Boutin)
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Black Bank Hill Pinot Noir 2020
VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Ontario $35.00 12.9% alcohol
This is a lovely pinot that greets you with crunchy cherry and fresh rose aromas but also a deeper layer of earthiness and subtle spice. Silky soft on the palate with juicy red cherry flavour and cranberry tartness, plus bay leaf savoury notes. Lots of finesse with a gentle dusty tannin finish trailing on a delicate exotic spice profile. Rainbow trout or salmon on the grill sounds like a perfect match. (Louise Boutin)
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Black Bank Hill Estate Vineyard ‘Runway Red’ 2020
VQA Lincoln Lakeshore, Ontario $30.00 12.8% alcohol
This superb blend of 60% merlot and the rest half and half cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc was matured 18 months in neutral French oak. It offers a clean and ripe fruit forward nose—blackcurrant, black cherry, blueberry—with an attractive backdrop of sweet tobacco, clove and violet. The palate is satin soft and cool with a black fruit flavour profile, complemented with minty notes, freshly cracked peppercorn, bright acidity and a good layer of ripe chewy tannins. Aerate/decant one hour and pour alongside gourmet lamb burgers on the grill or braised beef short ribs. (Louise Boutin)
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Black Bank Hill Estate Vineyard Cabernet Franc 2020
VQA Lincoln Lakeshore, Ontario $40.00 13.0% alcohol
I love Ontario cabernet franc and this one scores high on my deliciousness scale. Starting with the gorgeous nose of jalapeño mingling with ripe sweet black cherry, star anise, pipe tobacco, violet and the list goes on. There’s an excellent fruit concentration here—black cherry, purple plum—followed by the peppery/savoury character that gives so much complexity to this medium-full-bodied beauty matured 20 months in used French oak barrels. Expect powdery tannin astringency in the lovely peppery finish, perfect for a rare flank steak on the grill. This has room for further bottle maturation but is certainly hard to resist now. Aerate/decant one hour before dinner time. (Louise Boutin)
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Black Bank Hill Estate Vineyard Syrah 2020
VQA Lincoln Lakeshore, Ontario $55.00 13.5% alcohol
Hand-harvested on the first day of November after a superb growing season, this syrah is ripe and very expressive with beautiful aromas of blackberry, purple plum, dark chocolate and a good dose of black pepper, typical of the varietal. It is truly like velvet on the palate with an excellent core of black fruit flavours, cocoa powder and a delicious black olive briny note persisting in the endless fruit forward, peppery and dry mineral finish. This medium-full-bodied gem will definitely further evolve with proper cellaring but can be enjoyed now with grilled Toulouse sausage or eggplant parmigiana. (Louise Boutin)
Recent and Upcoming Vintages Releases
May 11, 2024 Vintages Release
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Claymore Wines ‘Dark Side of the Moon’ ‘Shiraz’ 2021
G. I. Clare Valley, Barossa, Australia, $19.95 (72652) 14.3% alcohol
Alluring aromas beguile the lucky taster(s) – dark berry fruit; blackberry, baking spices, ripe dark cherry and plenty of tang and pizzazz on the palate. The tannins are quite soft and very well balanced. This is a bit sharp and can be easily modified with a 30 minute decant of the wine before you try it. The price is well in your favour. Pour with premium beef steak, osso buco or backyard burgers. (Vic Harradine)
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Sacred Hill ‘Sauvignon Blanc’ ‘Marlborough’ 2023
Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand, $22.95 (489112) 13.0% alcohol
Sacred Hill was founded in 1986 and sourced fruit from New Zealand’s premium wine-growing regions including their estate-owned home vineyards in Hawke’s Bay. This particular vintage is an intense and concentrated wine and their winemakers continue to excel with this 2023 version of their top-notch Sauvignon Blanc that are sourced from their vineyards in the lower Wairau Valley that attained a high Brix level at harvest. The suggested food partners for this dazzling Sauvignon Blanc are seafood, salads or goat cheese. (Vic Harradine)
May 25, 2024 Vintages Release
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Gérard Bertrand ‘Heritage’ ‘An 1618’ 2022
AOP Picpoul De Pinet, Languedoc, France, $18.95 (13000) 13.0% alcohol
The 1618 on the bottle stands for a famous botanist, in 1618, writing in his book Sylve Plantarium as he pointed out that picpoul wine grapes were excellent and, in fact, the very best white grapes in the Languedoc region. And they still are! Pour alongside pan-seared seafood or steamed mussels. (Vic Harradine)
LCBO General List
Not much to say about the following wines from the LCBO General list except that they are stunningly good values.
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Yalumba ‘Y’ Series’ ‘Viognier’ (pronounced - Vee-On-Yay) 2022
G.I. South Australia, $15.95 (470062) 13.5% alcohol
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Luigi Bosca Wines ‘La Linda’ Malbec 2023
Mendoza – Argentina, $13.95 (11927) 13.6% alcohol
New in Ontario Wineries
Henry of Pelham
Order these wines at their website henryofpelham.com.
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Henry of Pelham ‘Family Estate’ Méthode Charmat’ ‘Non – Vintage’ – ‘Sparkling Wine’
VQA Ontario, $17.95 (CSPC# to be determined) 11.5% alcohol
From a special place in the valley of Short Hills Bench This is primarily sourced from a ‘Knock your socks off’ fabulous chardonnay along with a juicy pinot noir and a delectable fruit-forward gamay. This is the first wine that has been added to the Henry of Pelham wines since the Bin 106 ‘Lost Boys’ Baco Noir launched in 2018. Henry of Pelham is certified by Sustainable Winemaking Ontario and is committed to minimizing its environmental footprint in the vineyard and winery. This is critical for the long-term preservation of both Ontario’s Greenbelt and the Niagara Escarpment; a UNESCO World Biosphere Reserve. The secondary Méthode Charmat fermentation was designed to produce elegant bubbles. Pair this everyday sparkling wine with smoked salmon, rich cheeses, or in a cocktail. (Vic Harradine)
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Speck Brothers Family Tree ‘Merry Widow’ ‘Rosé’ 2022
VQA Niagara Peninsula, $16.95 (24972) 11.5% alcohol
Sustainably Grown and Accredited by Sustainable Winemaking Ontario. Living to the ripe old age of 44 years, 6 months and 22 days, Catherine out-lived her philandering husband Henry who had a secret love-child with Lady Snurr in the next village. Catherine forgave Henry, but we imagine her doing a little dance after his ‘sudden’ passing. (Vic Harradine)
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Speck Brothers Family Tree ‘Boxer’s Ghost’ Pinot Noir 2022
VQA Niagara Peninsula, $19.95 (30622) 12.5% alcohol
1t was the 1800’s and after a long day at the horse track, (now the Devil’s Hollow) an unofficial boxing match broke out. Bets were placed and the ‘wrong man’ won. He was never seen again (alive, at least…) This delectable Pinot Noir is simply delicious from first swirl and aroma to the balanced and spicy finish and aftertaste. The retail price at the winery is a tad under twenty dollars. Pour alongside Osso buco, Bolognese sauce or tomato pasta sauce and fettuccine noodles. (Vic Harradine)
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Henry of Pelham ‘Family Estate’ ‘Classic’ ‘Cabernet-Merlot’ 2022
VQA Niagara Peninsula, $16.95 (504241) 13.0% alcohol
For over two decades this Cabernet Franc - Merlot – and Cabernet Sauvignon new-world tradition as an age-worthy wine with black currant and black, juicy, Bing cherry. Taste the new-Old-World from Henry of Pelham estate vineyards. Give this a go, poured with charcuterie, roasted meat, grilled vegetables or pour this wine on its own. (Vic Harradine)
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Henry of Pelham ‘Family Estate’ ‘Pinot Grigio’ 2023
VQA Niagara Peninsula, $15.95 (250217) 12.0% alcohol
The Pinot Grigio is a refreshing white wine of 100% Pinot Grigio that displays excellent balance and good acidity and plenty of good tropical fruit – pineapple, Mirabelle plum and muskmelon, along with salinity and mineral notes, on the finish and aftertaste. Give this a go with ceviche, roast chicken or pasta salad. (Vic Harradine)
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Henry of Pelham Cuvée Catherine ‘Rosé’ – ‘Brut’- Non-Vintage
VQA Niagara Peninsula, $32.95 (217505) 12.0% alcohol
This Non-Vintage Rosé was fashioned by Méthode Traditionnelle. It utilized only 2 grape varieties - the traditional pairing of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. This wine was named in memory of Henry’s wife, widow and matriarch - Catherine Smith. The secondary fermentation was done in the bottle that you will take home if you decide to purchase this wine from the winery or the LCBO. The wine is aged for up to 24 months on the lees. (Vic Harradine)
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Speck Brothers ‘Free Bird’ - ‘Naturally Lively’ – ‘Cat Smith’ Riesling 2022
VQA Niagara Peninsula, $12.95 (28672) 10.5% alcohol
Karlo Estates
Karlo Estates is located near the town of Wellington in Prince Edward County, Ontario. The wines alone (a collaboration between winemaker Spencer Mayer and Executive winemaker Derek Barnett) make visiting a worthwhile trip. It is also, however, wonderfully picturesque place to visit. Go to the tasting room, pick up a glass of their 'Estate' Chardonnay, and walk through the vineyards to the drystone bridge, and drink in the scenery (and the wine).
Karlo Estates wines are available from their website.
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Karlo Estates Chardonnay 2021
VQA Ontario, $39.00 12.5% alcohol
This wine has been produced with a mix of barrel (60% French oak) and stainless steel (40%) fermentation. The result is wine with very subtle hints of oak underpinning a nose dominated by notes of fresh cut apples and buttered popcorn. It is medium bodied on the palate, with flavours of apple and grapefruit and a nice acidic zip. The finish is long and reminiscent of honeycrisp apples. Pairs well slices of pasta and mushrooms with a cashew cream sauce. (Dave Isaacs)
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Karlo Estates ‘Estate’ Chardonnay 2021
VQA Prince Edward County, $68.00 12.5% alcohol
This Chardonnay is made entirely from grapes sourced from Karlo Estate’s vineyard in Prince Edward County, and is a beautiful testament to the terroir of the region. The wine sports a deep golden hue, and greets you with a nose of butter and cream, with hints of melon and apple. It is medium-full bodied on the palate, with refreshing acidity that carries flavours of cantaloupe and apple. The finish is long and fruity. This is a fine match for a dish of seared oyster mushrooms with thyme and garlic. (Dave Isaacs)
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Karlo Estates ‘Patio Reserve’ Rosé
VQA Ontario, $18.00 12.5% alcohol
This delightful non-vintage crowd pleaser is rose-gold in colour, and has a lively nose of kiwi, strawberry and ripening pear. It is medium-full bodied in the mouth, with mouthwatering acidity and flavours of strawberry and lemon that follow through to the finish. It is a pleasure to sip by itself on a hot summer’s afternoon, accompanied by some roasted red pepper bruschetta. (Dave Isaacs)
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Karlo Estates Pinot Noir 2021
VQA Ontario, $39 12.0% alcohol
This quality pinot noir shows off a nose of roses and orange pekoe tea, punctuated with a hint of smoke. It is light bodied with a wonderfully balanced acidity and present but approachable tannins. Juicy flavours of cherry and blueberry flow through to a finish that makes wanting to immediately take another sip. Enjoy alongside some margherita pizza. (Dave Isaacs)
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Karlo Estates ‘Triumvirate’ 2021
VQA Ontario, $27.00 12.0% alcohol
A Bordeaux-style blend of merlot, cabernet franc, and cabernet sauvignon that sports a medium-dark purple hue and a complex nose of black pepper, dried mint, and garden soil. It is medium-full bodied on the palate, with juicy acidity. The tannins are quite firm, but approachable. You will find flavours of strawberry, combined with hints of coffee. Lay this down in the cellar for another 4 years, or enjoy today with some portobello mushroom burger. (Dave Isaacs)
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Karlo Estates ‘Quartus’ 2020
VQA Ontario, $46.00 13.0% alcohol
This is a 4-grape Bordeaux blend of malbec, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. It is dark purple, almost opaque in colour, with a nose of black plums, fresh mint, and jam on toast. It is medium-full bodied in the mouth, with chewy tannins. There is a tart acidity that carries flavours of sour cherry, mint, and chocolate. Keep this one in the cellar for another 5 years, or drink it today with a serving of mushroom stroganoff. (Dave Isaacs)
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Karlo Estates ‘Van Alstine Red’ 2021
’Property Grown’, $33.00 18.0% alcohol
This is a ruby Port-style wine made from frontenac noir grapes grown in Karlo Estates own vineyards. Frontenac noir is becoming increasingly popular in cold-climate regions, but has not yet been recognized by the Ontario Wine Appellation Authority, hence its lack of a VQA designation. The wine itself is stunning, with a dark red—almost opaque—appearance. Aromas of sweet cherry, dried prunes, and toasted nuts. It’s full-bodied and sweet, with a zip of acidity that prevents it from being cloyingly sweet. You will find flavours of vanilla, chocolate, and cherry, with the chocolate lingering into the finish. Enjoy with chocolate-based desserts. (Dave Isaacs)
Taste Ontario
The following wines were tasted at the Taste Ontario wine expo in Ottawa.
91
Domaine Queylus Rosé 2023
VQA Niagara Peninsula $24.75 12.5% alcohol
This is a 100% cabernet franc rosé, wild fermented with lovely floral aromas, watermelon rind, strawberry and pink grapefruit. The palate is fresh with a beautiful cranberry tartness combined with herbal flair in a medium-bodied weight. Light enough for summer sipping and versatile for lunch pairing. Try with a smoked trout salad or fresh tomato bruschetta. (Louise Boutin)
- Vastly cultivated on the Adriatic coast of Abruzzo--Casa-Dea owner’s Italian region of origin--pericono found excellent growing conditions in Prince Edward County. The 2022 vintage below is the first VQA approved one and it adds variety to the Ontario white wines offering.
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Casa-Dea Estate Winery Pecorino 2022
VQA Prince Edward County $34.95 12.5% alcohol
Expect an attractive blend of aromas—honeydew, ripe white peach, Meyer lemon and a hint of banana— in this Canadian pecorino—92% pecorino and a splash of melon de Bourgogne, the Muscadet grape. It flows nicely on the palate with a round body texture, offering melon, tangy citrus flavours and an herbal touch balancing the mix. The finish is crisp and mineral with a pleasant chalky texture. Definitely worth trying solo or paired with fried zucchini sticks or risotto alla Milanese. (Louise Boutin)
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Bella Terra Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc 2023
VQA Niagara Peninsula $22.95 12.0% alcohol
The expressive tropical nose of this Ontario sauvignon blanc is very charming—pineapple, honeydew melon, lime and mineral notes. Fruit concentration is noticeable, bringing a nice medium-bodied weight. Palate flavours and nose are totally aligned with the addition of lemongrass and white pepper, showing in the crisp, refreshing and persistent finish. Totally enjoyable on its own, it is also an excellent partner to Vietnamese steamed mussels or fish taco with a squeeze of fresh lime juice. (Louise Boutin)
Future Vintages Release—dates TBD
90
Domaine D’en Ségur Cuvée Germain 2022
IGP Côtes du Tarn, France $24.95 14.5% alcohol
Merlot and syrah team-up here to offer deep color and aromas of plum, dark cherry, slate and very little oaky character despite a 12 month stay in barrels. The palate is velvety with juicy and ripe black and red stone fruit flavours, savoury dry herb and a nice peppery dry finish with soft chalky tannins. Excellent alcohol integration here and a very good partner to lamb chops on the grill or stuffed and grilled portobello mushrooms. (Louise Boutin)
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Domaine D’en Ségur Les Coquelicots 2022
IGP Côtes du Tarn, France $21.95 12.5% alcohol
This is an organic blend of syrah and red duras—a local varietal grown around the Tarn River near Toulouse, southwestern France—fermented in vats and ready to drink. Discrete on the nose with sweet black fruit aromas, floral hints and black pepper in the background, it is soft on the palate with fresh black and red cherry flavours, good acidity and a gentle spicy dry finish. This will be perfect for backyard burgers or grilled Italian sausages on a toasted bun. (Louise Boutin)
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Domaine-de-Rombeau ‘Le Botaniste’ Réserve Fig.4 2022
AOP Côtes du Roussillon Villages, France $21.95 (28411) 15.0% alcohol
This pretty label with a botanical theme, introduces a lovely blend of 70% syrah and the rest half and half grenache and mourvèdre matured 12 months in French oak, 30% new. Quite expressive on the nose with ripe blackberry aromas, cola, sandalwood and a hint of lilac. It flows on the palate with a soft texture,
plenty of mixed berry flavours complemented with garrigue character, a replay of cola and a kick of black peppercorn. The finish is dry, savoury and delicious. Pair this full-bodied red with wild mushroom stew or your favourite cut of beef on the grill. (Louise Boutin)
94
Rutini Wines, Cruz Alta ‘Reserve’ Chardonnay 2023
Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina, $17.95 alcohol not available
The Uco Valley area is where the grapes in this wine were grown and harvested. The thermal amplitude found in this region gives a high concentration of aromas and flavours capturing
typicity of terroir and expression. The gentlest of swirls will bring on a fabulous array of delectable aromas followed by palate flavours of peach, delicate oak, Key lime pie and lemon zest. Pour with Caesar salad or crab cake. (Vic Harradine)
91
Rutini Wines, Cruz Alta ‘Reserve’ Malbec 2023
Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina, $17.95, 13.0% alcohol
The Uco Valley area is where the grapes in this wine were grown and captured nascent aromas and terroir expression. It requires more time in bottle to attain ‘a higher’ status.
95
Rutini Wines, Cruz Alta ‘Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2023
Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina, $17.95, 13.5% alcohol
This is smooth and mellow on nosing and even more so and mellow on your palate. There’s a delectable point in this while it is engulfing pleasant red wine aromas and flavours along with soft, gentle tannin that join up on the palate and delight one’s taste buds. This also remains on the taste buds from first sip to the finish and aftertaste. Enjoy. Give this special wine a go with a premium cut of beef on special occasions. (Vic Harradine)
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The ARH Australian Wine Company Pty. Ltd. Paringa Shiraz 2022
South Australia, Australia, $15.95, (632083) 14.9% alcohol
This wine was matured in 50% new and 50% used French oak barrels of 300 litre one year followed by refining in bottle for minimum one year. Cocoa and mocha oak flavours follow
through the palate and the berry fruit – Blueberry, bramble berry and velvety tannins complementing the palate, finish and aftertaste. Pour alongside grilled rack of lamb, hearty beef stew, or Chili Colorado - a mildly spiced Mexican stew. (Vic Harradine)
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Courtois ‘La Source’ Côtes-du-Rhône White 2023
AOP Côtes-du-Rhône $17.95 12.5% alcohol
This is a blend of the best-known white grapes of the Rhône Valley—clairette, grenache blanc, marsanne, rousanne and viognier—mingling so beautifully together both on the nose and palate. Ripe pear, apricot, cantaloup, a slight touch of orange blossom on the nose, it is nicely round with a bit of weight on the palate, yet perfectly lifted with white grapefruit tangy flavour and a gentle chalky texture in the lengthy dry finish. This is an exceptional value to watch for and pair with butternut squash lasagna or coconut shrimps. (Louise Boutin)
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Sons of Eden ‘Kennedy’ Grenache, Shiraz, Mourvèdre 2022
Barossa Valley, South Australia $ 23.95(558692)14.0% alcohol
Expect a profound medley of inviting aromas—mixed berry compote, Kirsch liqueur, dry eucalyptus leaves and some underbrush notes—from this hand-harvested blend of 56% grenache and the rest shiraz and mourvèdre, all from old vines and matured quietly for 12 months in oak barrels. Cool on the palate, it shows an incredible freshness to the red cherry, blackberry and dark plum flavours before exposing very fine powdery tannin and some black pepper character in the fruit forward persistent finish. Gourmet lamb burgers with a fresh mint sauce or eggplant manicotti would make excellent pairings for this medium-full-bodied red. (Louise Boutin)
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Provolo ‘Montetorbian’ 2020
DOC Valpolicella Ripasso Superiore $20.95 14.5% alcohol
This classic Valpoliccella blend of mostly corvina, rondinella, corvinone and oseleta, is going through a lengthy winemaking including a second fermentation on Amarone skins and ageing regiment totalizing 36 months of maturation in different wood vessels plus bottle resting. The nose is rich and profound with dry cherry, potpourri, clove and sandalwood aromas. Velvety on palate with vibrant flavours of red cherry and plum, spicy cinnamon and a hint of green peppercorn trailing in the lengthy finish. Truly enjoyable on its own or alongside hearty baked lasagna or veal chops on the grill. (Louise Boutin)
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Famille Long ‘+C Bon’ Côtes du Rhône 2023
AOP Côtes du Rhône, France $16.95 14.5% alcohol
This lovely blend of 70% grenache and the rest syrah screams aromas of mixed berry compote plus black plum, orange zest and a hint of black pepper. Lots of fresh fruit flavours aligned with the aroma profile, packed in velvety tannins, bright acidity and showing a tinge of savoury dry herbs in the finish. Surprisingly light on its feet considering the ABV, this will be a hit at your next barbecue party. (Louise Boutin)
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Famille Long ‘Un vin qui en dit long’ 2023
AOP Côtes du Rhône Village Vaison La Romaine, France $19.95 14.5% alcohol
There’s a powerful cocktail of aromas—purple plum, blueberry compote, star anise and slate--in this blend of grenache, syrah and carignan matured in a combination of concrete vats and oak barrels. This glides on the palate with delicious blackberry, plum, raspberry flavours, a nice layer of peppery cured meat and a gentle grip in the lovely long finish. This red that ‘has a lot to say’ will pair beautifully with grilled flank steak on the grill or bacon wrapped pork tenderloin. (Louise Boutin)
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Domaine Fond Croze ‘Confidence’ Côtes du Rhône 2023
AOP Côtes du Rhône, France $16.95 (20951) 14.5% alcohol
Grenache and syrah team-up in this red blend from fourth generation winemaker to offer lots of ripe plum and blueberry aromas as well as fresh strawberry and a discrete backdrop of licorice and lilac notes. So silky on the palate, with beautiful black and red fruit flavour freshness and lightness, hard to believe at 14.5% alcohol but the heat is only slightly noticeable at the very end along with peppery notes and mixed dry herbs. Lots to love about this medium-full bodied red, including the price tag. Pair with ratatouille or duck confit. (Louise Boutin)
- The wine below has a lot to intimidate, even the experienced wine taster. Starting with the country of origin; Georgia, yes, they make wine on the eastern coast of the Black Sea. In fact, history tracks winemaking back as far as 8000years, making Georgia the birthplace of wine when natural fermentation happened in Qvevri--large clay vessels buried underground. In this case below, the wine is made from Kisi--an indigenous white grape, skin macerated, aka orange wine, fermented in the traditional way. Definitely worth a try for the advised taster to experience the exotic varietal and the ancient winemaking technique.
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Glekhuri Kisi Qvevri Orange Wine 2021
Teliani ValleyKakheti, Georgia $33.95 13.0% alcohol
Expect a medium-amber color with pretty golden reflection. Dry apricot, chamomile tea, crushed fennel seed and honey make up the attractive nose. A soft palate of yellow plum, apricot and botanical concoctions at first, morphs into a flow of high acidity, exotic spice flavours with chewy tannins carried into the dry, spiced long finish. Quite a unique wine that benefits from at least an hour of aeration to soften the rustic tannins. I would pair with a mild curry lentil stew or butter chicken over basmati rice. (Louise Boutin)
92
Laboure-Roi Chablis ‘Le Beaunois’ 2023
AOC Chablis, France $32.95 13.0% alcohol
Lovely peach, Meyer lemon zest aromas and mineral notes open the door to an exquisite soft and round textured palate of ripe orchard fruit flavours complemented with mild citrus pith and a saline note trailing in the long delicious, dry, medium-bodied finish. Pour alongside fennel risotto with shrimps or lemon-butter baked filet of cod. (Louise Boutin)
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Piekenierskloof Wine Company ‘Six Hats’ Chenin Blanc 2024
W.O Cape, South Africa, $14.95 12.0% alcohol
Such a fresh and attractive combination of yellow apple, tangerine, dried apricot and white freesia flower aromas seep from the glass of this fairtrade beautiful chenin from the southern hemisphere. It glides on the palate with generous tropical and orchard fruit flavours plus zesty orange peel and ginger, offering a refreshing lengthy finish. So much to like in this friendly priced bottle. Enjoy on its own or with gourmet sushi and sashimi. (Louise Boutin)
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Domaine Jaume Côtes du Rhône Rosé 2023
AOP Côtes-du-Rhône $17.95 13.0% alcohol
Ripe cantaloup, orange peel and floral notes team up beautifully in this blend of grenache with a splash of syrah to charm the nose. Round texture on the palate with melon flavours, a touch of white pepper and a lovely orange zest refreshing finish. This rosé has enough body to pair with grilled dishes. Try a wild Sockeye salmon with a sundried tomato pesto. (Louise Boutin)
91
Poggio Al Vento Toscana Rosso 2022
IGT Toscana Rosso $17.95 (36898) 13.5% alcohol
There’s a profound attractive medley of aromas—dark cherry, caraway, potpourri, tobacco, cedar—in this hand-harvested traditional sangiovese. It glides on the palate with ease, offering a nice mix of tangy cherry and spice flavours, complemented with notes of dry sage and a gentle tannin grip in the savoury finish. This is your go to week-day bottle for hearty lasagna. (Louise Boutin)
93
Famille Jaume Pascal & Richard Gigondas 2023
AOP Gigondas $35.95 (28615) 14.5% alcohol
Gorgeous nose of fresh purple plum compote with orange zest aromas and a mineral backdrop, this Southern-Rhône red is generous and silky on the palate with tons of fresh dark fruit flavours. Bright acidity, piquant pepper notes and warm alcohol is all softened with 12 months of large oak barrel gentle maturation to make this young hand-harvested grenache-syrah blend from 45-year-old vines, very enjoyable now. It will only get better over the next 5-7 years. Enjoy this medium-full-bodied gem slightly chilled with eggplant parmigiana or cassoulet for a traditional pairing. (Louise Boutin)
91
3 Rings Shiraz 2022
Barossa Valley, Australia $17.95 (15495) 14.9% alcohol
Look no further, here’s your best partner to juicy, sticky barbecue pork ribs. This 100% shiraz bursts with ripe black fruit aromas—plum, black raspberry and cherry—plus cedar and hint of minty dark chocolate. The palate is generous with juicy dark fruit flavours, a thick layer of black pepper and charred leafy greens in the savoury finish framed in soft tannins. Excellent value. (Louise Boutin)
91
3 Rings Cabernet Sauvignon 2023
Barossa Valley, Australia $17.95 (36237) 14.5% alcohol
Opaque in the glass with concentration of dark cherry, blackberry, cassis aromas and a very nice green peppercorn and sandalwood backdrop. It offers a balanced and soft palate of ripe dark fruit flavours, ample peppery character and a cooling menthol note very pleasant in the piquant and long savoury finish. Pour alongside your favourite grilled beef cut, brushed with fresh rosemary. (Louise Boutin)
90
Les Marmandais Château Labarthe 2023
AOP Bordeaux, France $14.95 14.5% alcohol
This young blend of merlot and cabernets has a fresh and very attractive nose of sweet red cherry, ripe raspberry, zesty and floral notes. Soft palate, plenty of vibrant red and dark fruit flavours, balancing dry herb and a gentle grip in the light peppery finish, makes this festive red, the perfect guest to your next barbecue dinner. Serve slightly chilled and enjoy with friends! (Louise Boutin)
91
Monovar Bodegas ‘El Caire’ Monastrell 2021
DOPAlicante, Spain $15.95 (30223) 14.0% alcohol
Monastrell grape, aka Mourvèdre is indigenous to Spain and often used in blending but not here where it comes in all its splendor. Ruby in color with a garnet rim, it shows some roasted meat aromas on the nose with beautiful and profound notes of dry cherry, cola and tobacco. The palate is cool with ripe dark fruit character, orange zest tang and dark chocolate qualities. Tannins are soft, yet noticeable and the slightly peppery and warm finish is very enjoyable. Great value to pair with roast beef and grilled root vegetables or lentil stew. (Louise Boutin)
90
Carmim Reguengos White 2023
DOC Alentejo, Portugal 10.95 13.5% alcohol
This is a blend of antão vaz and roupeiro grapes vastly planted in the Alentejo region, south-east of Lisbon. Ripe peach, pineapple and lime zest aromas introduce a medium-bodied white with delicious sweet yellow pear flavour combined with citrus tang and a nice white pepper note in the dry finish. This will be great with fish tacos or fried calamari. (Louise Boutin)
90
Carmim Monsaraz Tradição White 2023
DOC Alentejo, Portugal $11.95 13.5% alcohol
Antão vaz, arinto and gouveio aka godello grapes are blended here to create an interesting medium-bodied white with aromas of grapefruit, honeydew melon and an herbaceous flair. The palate is round with a combination of green apple, grapefruit and lime flavours, chalky minerality and a saline note emerging in the nice crisp finish. Asparagus risotto or grilled sardines with a sprinkle of sea salt would be perfect to pair with. (Louise Boutin)
90
Carmim Reguengos Red 2023
DOC Alentejo, Portugal $10.95 14.5% alcohol
This is an unoaked red blend of indigenous Portuguese grapes—aragonês, trincadeira and Castelão—showing lots of fresh and ripe fruit aromas, such as black cherry, raspberry, blackberry as well as a background of piquant cinnamon. The palate is juicy and soft with a black fruit flavour profile, bright acidity, and no more than medium-full bodied despite the alcohol level, which is quite well integrated. The finish shows savoury dry herbs notes which balance out to fruit forward qualities. This wine offers way more than you would expect from the price point. Enjoy slightly chilled with lamb or veggie burgers (Louise Boutin)
91
Carmim Monsaraz Tradição Red 2023
DOC Alentejo, Portugal $11.95 14.5% alcohol
Alicante Bouschet, usually used in red blends to bring deeper color, is the main grape in this unoaked red blend along with trincadeira and aragonêz, aka tempranillo. The nose is intense with attractive kirsch liqueur aromas, ripe purple plum, cola notes and a hint of lavender. Sooo velvety on the slightly warm palate, without hindering the delicious berry medley flavours and spice expression. Fine chalky tanninsbring a gentle structure to this must try, medium-full-bodied red with a dry and savoury finish. Chill for15 minutes and pour alongside, marinated flank steak on the grill or eggplant lasagna. (Louise Boutin)
Cheers!
Dave, Lisa, Louise, and Vic