January 19, 2022 Newsletter
Newsletter Highlights:
- 95 points and over – no wine rang the 95 points and over bell.
- Exceptional-value wine – There are exceptional-value wines found throughout the newsletter and easily spotted by the
icon checkmark. Happy hunting! - Louise Loves – 2018 Victor Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon earned 89 points @ $19.95 found under California: Red Wine; 2019 Domaine Courtois ‘La Source’ Côtes-du-Rhône earned 90 points @ $14.95 found under France: Red Wine.
- Vic Picks – 2019 Marynissen Estates Cabernet – Merlot earned 92 points @ $17.95 found under Ontario: White Wine; 2018 Jim Barry ‘The Lodge Hill’ Shiraz earned 94 points @ $21.95 found under Australia: Red Wine; 2020 Vineland Estates Winery ‘Unoaked’ Chardonnay earned 90 points @ $14.95 found under New in Vintages now; 2018 Cune Crianza Tempranillo earned 91 points @ $15.95 found under New in Vintages now. 2019 Flat Rock Cellars ‘Nadja’s Vineyard’ Riesling earned 93 points @ $29.95 found under New in Ontario Wineries.
Vintages Release: January 22, 2022
Sparkling Wine
93
Peller Estates ‘Ice Cuvée’ Rosé Non-Vintage
VQA Niagara Peninsula $36.95 (113035) 12.0% alcohol
A lovely salmon pink, this versatile sparkler combines Chardonnay and Pinot Noir as the base wine with a dash of icewine. It displays sweet, almost honeyed, red berry fruit on the nose. Just off-dry due to dosage with Cabernet Franc and Vidal icewine, it has a fine, light mousse and replays the lively berry flavours on the palate—think of sun-kissed, field-ripe strawberries and juicy, ripe currant. It’s refreshing with a hint of sweetness that lingers on the finish. This is bound to be a crowd-pleaser. (Susan Desjardins)
Ontario: Red Wine
• The following 2019 Marynissen Estates Cabernet – Merlot was sourced from a blend of 49% merlot/36% cabernet sauvignon/15% cabernet franc that was carefully selected and machine harvested from various Niagara Peninsula Vineyards from October 19 to November 15, 2019. The Marynissen Cabernet Sauvignon vines are the oldest commercial Cabernet Sauvignon vines in Canada. Fruit was destemmed and partially crushed then transferred to stainless steel tank where it was fermented warm on its skins from 14 to 28 days then pressed. The wines that were selected for this final blend were chosen—after maturing for eight months in stainless steel with French oak chips— for their aromatic profile and palate structure. This is drinking well now and will mature and improve with careful cellaring on to 2025.
92 
Marynissen Estates Cabernet - Merlot 2019
VQA Niagara Peninsula $17.95 (16713) 13.5% alcohol
Lifted aromas of cherry/berry fruit robed in savoury herbs and mixed spice abound on the nose preceding a gusher of deftly balanced palate flavours of black bramble berry, © Ribena and notions of kirsch liqueur. The tannins are smooth and polished while the finish and aftertaste replay palate flavours. Give this a go with grilled and smoked pork back ribs mopped with spicy barbeque sauce or your favourite fajitas—beef, chicken or pulled pork. The price-quality ratio skews well in your favour; pick up an armful. (Vic Harradine)
California: Red Wine
• The following 2018 Victor Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon was sourced from small-town vignerons with over a century of dedication to providing quality grapes that went into the making of this quality red wine. Victor Vineyards is housed in the historic Victor Fruit Company with vineyards over 100 years old.
89
Victor Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon 2018
Lodi, California $19.95 (438515) 14.9% alcohol
Ripe black fruit aromas--blackberry, cherry and cassis--ooze from the glass along with tobacco and hints of grilled herb. This medium-full bodied red flows on the palate with flavours of black cherry, plum, balsamic reduction and earthiness. Powdery tannin and good alcohol integration provide a pleasant warm dry finish with notes of prune and charred savoury herb in the aftertaste. Pour alongside grilled lamb sausages or stuffed Portobello mushrooms. (Louise Boutin)
Australia: Red Wine
• The following 2017 Jim Barry Wines ‘The Lodge Hill’ Shiraz was sourced from low-yielding shiraz vines grown on soils of rich loam over near-vertical sheets of rock. The now soil-filled passageways allow vine roots to work their way down to water from this nature-induced drainage system. It should be noted that Jim Barry Wines was proclaimed by James Halliday as 2020 Australian Winery of the Year; a much sought-after recognition and prize in Australia. They are also members of the prestigious, ‘Australia’s First Families of Wine’.
94
Jim Barry ‘The Lodge Hill’ Shiraz 2018
Clare Valley, Australia $21.95 (998476) 14.0% alcohol
Bramble berry, blueberry and ripe mulberry intertwine with peppery spice flavours on entry to the palate before joining up with baking spice and dark bittersweet chocolate mid-palate. This showcases good balance, a supple underpinning of polished, fine-grain tannin and plenty of excellent acidity and touches of elegance. It’s medium-bodied, nicely textured with a lengthy and balanced finish and aftertaste. Pour with grilled rack of lamb. (Vic Harradine)
France: Red Wine
90
Domaine Courtois ‘La Source’ Côtes-du-Rhône 2019
AOC Côtes-du-Rhône $14.95 (526640) 14.5% alcohol
This is another very good vintage for this youthful bright purple-shaded blend of 85% grenache and 15% syrah fresh out of the stainless steel tank. It’s an explosion of mixed berry character both on the nose and palate with a zesty tang, lots of young fine-grained tannin and graphite minerality. Medium-full bodied with excellent alcohol integration, it’s good to go now with braised beef and carrot roast or rare-grilled steak and will get better with a few more months of careful cellaring. Aerate/decant one hour before meal time. (Louise Boutin)
New in Vintages: (available now in most LCBO retail stores!)
• The following 2019 Marynissen Estates Cabernet Franc was mechanically harvested from select VQA Niagara Peninsula vineyards from November 5 to November 17, 2019. Fruit was destemmed and partially crushed then transferred to stainless steel tank where it was fermented warm on its skins from 14 to 28 days then pressed. The wines that were selected for this final blend were chosen—after maturing for eight months in stainless steel with French oak chips—for their aromatic profile and palate structure. This is drinking well now and will mature and improve with careful cellaring on to 2025.
93
Marynissen Estates Cabernet Franc 2019
VQA Niagara Peninsula $17.95 (23973) 13.5% alcohol
Aromas of raspberry and dried currant waft easily from the glass decorated with pencil shavings and piquant peppery spice. It’s creamy smooth and well textured on the palate showcasing rich, luscious flavours of dark cherry, cassis and bramble berry adorned with excellent tang and pizzazz in the form of pie cherry and passionfruit that persist to and through the lingering finish and lip-smacking aftertaste. There’s plenty to like here and the price-quality balance tips well in your favour. Pick up a few while they are still available. (Vic Harradine)
• The following 2020 Vineland Estates Winery ‘Unoaked’ Chardonnay is a Vintages Essential wine always available in select LCBO stores.
90
Vineland Estates Winery ‘Unoaked’ Chardonnay 2020
VQA Niagara Peninsula $14.95 (669374) 12.5% alcohol
Lifted, alluring aromas of green apple, pear and floral notes precede a medium-weight mouthful of tangy apricot and off-dry Mirabelle plum intertwined with lemony citrus and a cartload of pizzazz. This showcases good balance of ripe fruit, tangy citrus and the yin and yang of sweet and tang running to and through the lingering finish and aftertaste. A great sipping wine on its own, it also has lots of dance partners at the table—a vegan-friendly green salad, roast chicken or pan-seared salmon, sushi or shellfish. The price-quality balance tips well in your favour. (Vic Harradine)
• The following 2018 Cune Crianza Tempranillo is primarily sourced from Tempranillo at 85% and the remaining 15% is garnacha tinta and mazuelo in the highly rated Rioja appellation and is registered and accredited as vegan-friendly. It spent 12 months maturing in pre-loved American oak barrels.
91
Cune Crianza Tempranillo 2018
DOCa Rioja, Spain $15.95 (39925) 13.5% alcohol
Aromas of tobacco and tea leaves interlace with red cherry/berry fruits and notions of exotic spice and vanilla. It’s medium-plus bodied with creamy smooth mouthfeel and balanced and bountiful palate flavours—black currant, ripe mulberry and black raspberry—with an underpinning of polished, fine-grain tannin. It lingers on the balanced finish and aftertaste with distinctive and welcomed tangy acidity and notions of sweet vanilla extract. This is easily sipped on its own and really shines when paired with New Zealand spring lamb or Australian rack of lamb.
New in Ontario Wineries
• The first two Flat Rock wines will be available only at the winery, either online to be delivered to your home, business or restaurant or drive to the winery to pick up a curbside order made previously by phone or online; while the third wine is available at most LCBO stores as a Vintages Essential wine. Follow the winery link to online guidelines for ordering wine online and to the ever-changing provincial COVID-19 guidelines for visiting Niagara wineries including Flat Rock Cellars.
• The following 2019 Flat Rock Cellars (E{NV}Y Riesling was sourced from vines that were planted in 2014 making then five years old when fruit for this wine was harvested. They are planted a mere laneway away from the much-older Nadja’s vineyard and these younger vines are planted with a Geisenheim, Germany 239 clone.
91
Flat Rock Cellars (E{NV}Y Riesling 2019
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $29.95 10.0% alcohol
Sharp minerality aromas intertwine with citrus and orchard fruit on the nose of this spirited and captivating gem. There’s a laser-like streak of nerve and verve acidity underpinned with delightfully tangy pizzazz and grilled savoury herbs throughout. It captures and delights the palate with a powerful and delicious river of off-dry ambrosia delivering a lip-smacking palate-pleasing surge of lime cordial that continues through the mouth-watering finish and aftertaste. Pour on its own as an aperitif or with ham and Gruyère French toast sandwich. (Vic Harradine)
• The following 2019 Flat Rock Cellars ‘Nadja’s Vineyard’ Riesling was sourced from this special estate vineyard from Clone 238, native to the Mosel River Valley in Germany with SO4 root stock. Fruit for this wine was picked when these vines were 18 years old. Riesling lovers will want to pick up a few bottles and drink over the next ten or so years.
93
Flat Rock Cellars ‘Nadja’s Vineyard’ Riesling 2019
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $29.95 11.5% alcohol
A gentle swirl reveals an aromatic nuanced nose sporting notions of flinty minerality, Key lime pie and piquant savoury spice. This explodes on the palate and persists through a monumentally long finish and aftertaste delivering mouthful after mouthful of deftly balanced yin and yang of sweetness—ripe orchard fruit—and tangy pizzazz—delightful lemon-lime citrus that leaves one looking for another glass or two. This is sublime sipped on its own and pairs up exceptionally well with steamed mussels or pan-seared scallops with a small side of fettucine and lightly creamed pesto sauce. (Vic Harradine)
New vintage in LCBO stores as a Vintages Essential wine.
• The following 2019 Flat Rock Cellars Riesling is a Vintages Essential wine found in most LCBO stores. It provides you an opportunity to taste premium riesling at an incredibly attractive price point. Pick up a few and drink over the next three to five years.
92
Flat Rock Cellars Riesling 2019
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $17.95 (43281) 10.5% alcohol
Piquant aromas of machine oil, mineral notes and citrus abound on the nose of this well paced, well-priced riesling. It envelops the palate with a tsunami wave of flavours with sharp lemon-lime acidity and tang and notions of off-dry sweet cantaloupe glazed with chalky minerality through the lengthy, balanced finish and aftertaste. Give this a go with a multitude of table partners—Thai fish cakes, a spicy Asian dish like Mou Shoo pork, a charcuterie board or an assortment of sushi. (Vic Harradine)
Upstream in winecurrent
Vintages Release: February 5, 2022
• The following 2019 Luigi Bosca Cabernet Sauvignon was sourced from 100% cabernet sauvignon from vines with an average age of 40 years that was sourced exclusively from estate vineyards at 800 to 1000 m above sea level. The grapes were manually harvested with bunch selection and de-stemming. Alcoholic fermentation took place in stainless steel tanks at a controlled temperature of 28 °C using selected yeasts. It was then matured in French and American oak barrels for 14 months before being gently filtered and bottled.
92
Luigi Bosca Cabernet Sauvignon 2018
Maipú & Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza, Argentina $18.95 (128629) 14.3% alcohol
Rich and luscious on the nose, this cabernet sauvignon freely gives up aromas of dark cherry fruit, bramble berry jam along with mixed spice and smoky notes. It envelops the palate with a tidal wave of delectable flavours with black plum and passionfruit mingling with piquant spice and grilled savoury herbs. It’s generously textured with good mouthfeel and an extended finish and aftertaste. The winery suggests a pairing with wild boar, if you find yourself out of wild boar, give rare-grilled venison a chance with a side of roasted root veggies. (Vic Harradine)
Vintages Release: March 5, 2022
92
Drappier ‘Nature – Pinot Noir – Zéro Dosage’ Brut Non-Vintage
AOC Champagne $68.95 (179275) 12.5% alcohol
Pleasant aromas of floral notes, apple and baking brioche precede frothy mousse of fine-bead bubbles winding their way to the top of the glass. It’s lively and fresh on the palate with flavours of bracing, tang-laden citrus and pleasant minerality interlaced with notions of honeyed pit fruit. This is 100% pinot noir, hand-harvested, undergoing natural malolactic conversion before spending a minimum of 30 months in bottle on its lees before disgorgement and no sugar was added. The bottle these tasting notes and rating are based on was disgorged November, 2021. (Vic Harradine)
Vintages Release: March 19, 2022
• Fonseca is now in its fifth generation of winemakers of the Guimaraens family who are revered in Portugal and among Port-lovers world-wide. Late Bottled Vintage (LBV) Port is bottled after at least four to six years of aging in wooden barrel and, like Vintage port, was sourced from a single vintage. However, LBV Port is ready to drink upon purchase. This wine was not fined nor filtered so deserves to be decanted and strained before serving.
92
Fonseca ‘Late Bottled Vintage Port’ 2015
Product of Portugal $23.95 (87551) 20.0% alcohol
Aromas of rich and luscious black fruit abound on the nose of this dazzling well-priced, high-octane Port. It’s smooth and mellow on the palate showcasing ripe black plum compote, sweet black cherry, figs, raisins and mocha and an underpinning of acceptable soft, ripe tannin on the palate, dry finish and aftertaste. You really can’t go wrong here given the price-quality balance that tips well in your favour. This is usually opened after a meal with a few cheeses—Stilton is a blue-veined cheese that’s a match made in heaven as are shards of Parmigiano Reggiano. (Vic Harradine)
Vintages Release: TBD 2022
93
Famille Jaume ‘Pascal and Richard’ Cru des Côtes-du-Rhône 2020
AOC Gigondas, France $29.95 15.0% alcohol
This gorgeous, old vine, hand-harvested blend of 80% grenache/20% syrah shows attractive aromas of crushed mixed berries, plum, cola, black tea and a hint of rose petal. Beautiful alcohol integration leaves all the space for fresh berry flavours to shine along with mixed dry herb and notes of delicious briny black olives all wrapped in polished tannins slightly drying the palate. This versatile exquisite red is surprisingly lighter on its feet than expected, providing endless options for food pairing. Try slow cooked pot roast or thin-crust pizza with black olives or duck confit. (Louise Boutin)
91
André Brunel ‘Cuvée Sabrine’ 2019
AOC Côtes du Rhône Villages, France $16.95 (538496) 14.5% alcohol
This is a nice melange of mostly grenache with syrah and mourvèdre fermented in concrete vats and showcasing bright fruit aromas—black plum, strawberry compote, blackberry but also leather and a mild note of tobacco. This is medium-full bodied with fine-grained tannin flowing nicely on the palate and offering delicious flavours of ripe black fruit, savoury herb, a bright orange zest note and a touch of black pepper in the dry finish and delicious aftertaste. This is a hit with ratatouille or charcuterie board with olive tapenade. (Louise Boutin)
91
Domaine Gouron Cabernet Franc 2020
AOP Chinon, Loire Valley, France $17.95 (470963) 13.0% alcohol
Vintage after vintage, this 100% cabernet franc never disappoints. Attractive cherry pie filling aromas paired with red bell pepper, bay leaf and a mild peppery note, it glides on the palate with softness and grace. Crunchy red fruit flavours, ripe black cherry and a bright pomegranate note travels the palate with just enough polished tannin to add a little grip before ending on a fruit forward, peppery dry finish. There are many reasons to love this medium-bodied red, including its price tag, so load-up the trunk and enjoy with Toulouse sausage and bell pepper medley, Hungarian goulash or eggplant parmigiana. (Louise Boutin)
92
Domaine Les Pins ‘les Rochettes’ Cabernet Franc 2020
AOP Bourgueil, Loire Valley, France $17.95 13.5% alcohol
Young looking with its purple shade, this medium-bodied red has no oak contact but rather concrete tank maturation for 10 months before bottling. Mixed crushed berries, dark cherry, jalapeño and dusty gravel aromas charm the nose. Just like a silk blanket, it caresses the palate with juicy ripe cherry flavour, blackberry and a tangy raspberry note followed with a slight piquant effect developing as the über-fine ripe tannins appear in the dry, well-structured and savoury delicious finish. This a real gem and it will pair perfectly with duck confit or gourmet sausages with fine mustards. (Louise Boutin)
89
Rocca dei Forti ‘Prosecco – Le Cuvée’ Charmat Non-Vintage
DOC Prosecco, Italy $14.95 11.5% alcohol
Pretty aromas of pear, honeydew melon and floral notes open the door to an uncomplicated and light bubbly, filling the mouth with a nice airy froth. Delicious flavours of green apple, pear and a bright note of lemon zest clean the palate with freshness and a crisp mouthfeel finish. This is perfect for salted munchies at the apero, alongside light cream pasta or as your sparkling cocktail topper in Aperol Spritz. (Louise Boutin)
90
Rocca dei Forti Prosecco - Brut Rosé Charmat Sparkling Wine 2020
DOC Prosecco, Italy $15.95 11.5% alcohol
Pale salmon in the glass, this medium-light-bodied glera blend gets its color from a dash of pinot noir. Orchard fruits aromas to the fore, it also shows notes of field strawberry and a touch of earthiness. A light but expansive mousse completely fills the palate with delicious fresh and tart flavours of apple, red currant and cranberry with a mouth-watering finish and savoury aftertaste. Serve well chilled with tomato bruschetta or smoked salmon appetizers. (Louise Boutin)
Cheers!
Lisa, Louise, Dave, Vic