October 13, 2021 Newsletter
Newsletter highlights:
- 95 points and over – There are five wines that rang the 95 points and over bell; they are distributed throughout the following newsletter.
- There are over 60 – There are over 60 wines reviewed in this newsletter.
- Exceptional-value wine – There are many exceptional-value wines found throughout the newsletter and easily spotted by the
icon checkmark in the October 16, 2021 Vintages Release and in the many categories following the release. Happy hunting! - Limited Time Offers –There are 22 new wines that are reviewed in this newsletter and are also being discounted at the LCBO for up to a $5.00 rebate for each bottle purchased from now to November 11, 2021. They are waiting to be discovered at the end of the newsletter.
- Lisa Likes - Bodega El Esteco ‘Old Vines - 1946’ Malbec 2019 earned 93 points @ $24.95 found under Argentina: Red Wine.
- Louise Loves – 7 Deadly Zins ‘Old Vine’ Zinfandel 2018 earned 91 points at $21.95 found under New in Vintages (this is available now in Vintages section of LCBO retail stores); Cune ‘Reserva – Rioja’ 2018 earned 92 points @ $22.95 found under Upstream in winecurrent Vintages Release; November 13, 2021; Henry of Pelham ‘Lost Boys - Bin 106 – Limited Edition’ Baco Noir 2020 found under Upstream in winecurrent Vintages Release; November 13, 2021.
- Vic Picks – Flat Rock Cellars ‘Unplugged - Unoaked’ Chardonnay 2020 earned 91 points @ $17.95 found under Ontario: White Wine; Henry of Pelham ‘Estate’ Pinot Noir 2019 earned 92 points @ $24.95 found under Ontario: Red Wine; Wakefield ‘Jaraman’ Chardonnay 2018 earned 95 points @ $24.95 found under Australia: White Wine; Dievole ‘Novocento – Riserva’ 2016 earned 94 points @ $33.95 found under Italy: Red Wine; Benziger Family Winery Merlot 2017 earned 93 points @ $24.95 found under New in Vintages (this is available now in Vintages section of LCBO retail stores); Wakefield ‘Estate Label’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 earned 92 points @ $19.95 found under New in Vintages (this is available now in Vintages section of LCBO retail stores); Stave & Steel Wine ‘Canadian Whisky Barrel Finished’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2017 earned 91 points @ $19.95 found under New in LCBO - General List (in stores now).
Vintages Release: October 16, 2021
Fortified Wine: Port
94
Dow’s ‘10-Year-Old Tawny’ Port
DOP Porto, Portugal $34.95 (246967) 19.3% alcohol
This is liquid ambrosia with heady aromas and medium-bodied, creamy-smooth, palate-bathing $flavours of treacle, nutty notes, Christmas-cake spice and caramel. It’s structured, complex and finishes with more of the same replaying palate flavours on the lingering aftertaste. This pairs and pours well with consommé, crème brûlée, spice cake, warmed nuts or aged hard cheese. (Vic Harradine)
Fortified Wine: Sherry
93
Gonzalez Byass ‘Nectar - Pedro Ximenez - Dulce’ Sherry
DO Jerez, Spain $18.95 (87577) 15.5% alcohol
Dessert-style Sherries are a must-try for anyone who hasn’t experienced one. This is no exception with dazzling aromatics of toffee, molasses and caramelized sugar. With a nutty side to the nose, this also smells like crème brûlée in a glass. It’s quite sweet, has a viscous texture, is full bodied and has a long flavourful finish. Pair with rich desserts, like pecan pie or butter tarts. (Vic Harradine)
Ontario: Icewine
90
Lakeview Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon Icewine 2017
VQA Niagara Peninsula $39.95 200ml (471813) 11.0% alcohol
This bright, 100% cabernet sauvignon elixir never disappoints; fragrant on the nose—maraschino cherry, crushed strawberry and black pepper—it introduces a delightful and vibrant juice of sweet and tart flavours with ripe cherry, strawberry, tangy raspberry on the palate followed by a savoury herb and red, bell pepper jam note trailing on the perfectly balanced finish. Enjoy on its own or with creamy cheese such as Brie or Camembert at any time. (Louise Boutin)
Champagne
• There’s an argument to be made that Bollinger is ‘the’ top, or one of the top, Champagne houses and the following Non-Vintage Bollinger ‘Special Cuvée Brut’ certainly lends a good deal of support for top spot. It’s a blend of 60% pinot noir/25% chardonnay/15% pinot meunier with over 85% of grapes sourced from Premier Cru and Grand Cru-rated sites with a generous amount of pre-loved barrel-aged and the inclusion of reserve wines.
96
Bollinger ‘Special Cuvée Brut’ Champagne Non-Vintage
AOC Champagne, France $91.95 (384529) 12.0% alcohol
A profusion of mousse fills the glass with lines of fine-bead pearls winding upward, seemingly forever, in the glass. Alluring aromas of leesy/mineral notes, strawberry, baked apple and biscuit introduce a gorgeous array of invigorating, sweet and tang flavours caressing the palate with creamy-smooth texture, lemon curd, nutty notes and poached pear. This is crisp, refreshing, balanced and bountiful on the finish. My highest compliment; it required the utmost discipline to spit. (Vic Harradine)
90
Georges Gardet ‘Cuvée Saint Flavy Brut’ Non-Vintage
AOC Champagne $46.95 (924654) 12.0% alcohol
This has an attractive nose of mineral, floral and heady citrus notes. There’s a lovely attack on the palate with a rush of white grapefruit and green apple flavours infused with spice and mineral nuances. It’s medium in weight and texture and offers a lingering finish that’s zesty and clean. There’s enough oomph for it to be paired with light appetizers and the attractive price allows it to be served as the welcoming wine at large gatherings. (Vic Harradine)
91
Labouré-Gontard ‘Brut’ Crémant de Bourgogne Non-Vintage
AOC Burgundy $21.95 (401018) 12.0% alcohol
This blend of chardonnay/pinot noir is made in the ‘traditional method’ thus mirroring Champagne in grape varieties and how it’s produced; it’s also made from grapes grown just south of Champagne. However, it doesn’t mirror Champagne’s price and that makes it incredibly interesting. It’s rich, fruity with generous mousse—lots of bubbles—satin-smooth mouth feel and divine aftertaste. A perfect wine to welcome guests, this has the character and depth to match well with appetizers and lighter fare—pick up a few. (Vic Harradine)
Ontario: White Wine
91
Closson Chase ‘KJ Watson Vineyard’ Pinot Gris 2018
VQA Four Mile Creek, Niagara Peninsula $24.00 (469445) 12.5% alcohol
This was 100% stainless steel fermented and saw no oak. Aromas of honeysuckle and pit fruit abound on the nose. It dishes up a medium-full bodied, tang-infused and generously textured mouthful of flavour with lemon curd and grapefruit zest mingling with ripe pear and saline minerality. This finishes lengthy, clean and refreshing with plenty of pizzazz. Pour with Alsatian onion tart or baked, bone-in ham dotted with cloves. (Vic Harradine)
91 
Flat Rock Cellars ‘Unplugged - Unoaked’ Chardonnay 2020
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $17.95 (68015) 13.0% alcohol
This saw not a splinter of oak; it’s pure and chardonnay-fruit driven. Alluring aromas of green apple, soft citrus and notions of pear dominate the nose. A wash of palate flavours—Meyer lemon, Granny Smith apple and a hint of tangy grapefruit—persist through the crisp, clean and refreshing finish and aftertaste. The price-quality balance tips well in your favour; it’s delicious, very well balanced and versatile at the dinner table. Give this a go with pan-seared fish and seafood, pork cutlets or roast chicken. (Vic Harradine)
88
Lundy Manor ‘Proprietor's Blend’ White 2017
VQA Niagara Peninsula $18.95 (579961) 12.0% alcohol
This wine has a very light golden appearance with a floral nose punctuated with hints of clover, nectar and tinned pear. It is full bodied and lightly sweet on the palate with flavours of apple and pear. The finish is fruity and cuts through a zing of acidity. This’ll pair nicely with a dish of curried vegetables. (Dave Isaacs)
Ontario: Red Wine
• The following 2019 Henry of Pelham ‘Estate’ Pinot Noir was hand harvested, and sustainably grown and certified by SWO. After being gently de-stemmed and mechanically sorted, grapes were then carefully moved by gravity. Grapes are de-seeded then seeds added back judiciously to control the tannin structure of the wine. Fruit was fermented in stainless steel using pulse-air with hand punch downs to gently manage the cap.
92
Henry of Pelham ‘Estate’ Pinot Noir 2019
VQA Short Hills Bench $24.95 (268391) 13.0% alcohol
Gamy notes mingle with aromas of barnyard, piquant spice and savoury herbs on the interesting nose. A stream of red cherry and black currant flavours envelop the palate adorned with plenty of tang-infused passionfruit and hints of soft, ripe manageable tannin. It’s medium bodied with pleasant mouthfeel, good balance and plenty to like. Give this a try with smoked duck breasts or roast turkey. It’s good value and very enjoyable drinking now; and it will continue to improve over the next three or four years. (Vic Harradine)
• The following 2018 Tawse Winery ‘Quarry Road Vineyard – Estate Bottled’ Pinot Noir was sourced 100% from the hand-harvested fruit from the Estate Quarry Road Vineyard of tightly knit vines planted in 2007. This wine was matured for 12 months in French oak.
89
Tawse Winery ‘Quarry Road Vineyard – Estate Bottled’ Pinot Noir 2018
VQA Vinemount Ridge $35.195 (307686) 13.0% alcohol
Lively aromas leap from the glass—piquant spice of cinnamon and ginger mingling with earthy and mineral notes galore. There’s a laser-like streak of red fruit on the palate—cranberry, passionfruit and pomegranate—riding a stream of tang and acidity that’s ameliorated on the back palate by riper red cherry and raspberry. There’s a lick of tannin throughout the dry finish and aftertaste. Aerate/decant for three hours before serving with coq au vin or cassoulet. Careful cellaring for two or three years should also be rewarded. (Vic Harradine)
Argentina: Red Wines
• The following 2019 Bodega El Esteco ‘Old Vines’ Malbec is a partnership between Adrianna Catena—historian and viticulturist—and winemaker, Alejandro Vigil. The grapes from this wine were sourced and hand-harvested from 100% Malbec vines averaging over 70 years of age. Maceration takes place in large ovoid 3000 L vats for 5 days then primary alcoholic fermentation starts immediately with indigenous yeasts. After primary fermentation takes place, wine is de-vatted and restored to ovoid vats for a natural second, non-alcoholic, malo-lactic fermentation. The wine is then bottled unfiltered and allowed to rest and settle in bottle for six to eight months before release. Here’s a youtube video about Bodega El Esteco.
93
Bodega El Esteco ‘Old Vines - 1946’ Malbec 2019
Valles Calchaquies, Salta $24.95 (19391) 14.0% alcohol
There’s tremendous value in this well-crafted malbec. The potent and captivating nose announces an array of aromas—blackberry, blueberry and dark plum with notions of tobacco leaf, espresso bean and a delicate floral note. A palate-coating wash of rich, ripe dark fruit is enhanced with hints of vanilla, baking spice and dusty cocoa adding interest and depth. Medium-full bodied and well-structured with outstanding purity of fruit, evolving tannins and bright acidity, it finishes long, flavourful and delicious. (Lisa Isabelle)
• The following 2018 Kaiken ‘Terroir Series’ Malbec-Bonarda-Petit Verdot is a blend of 80% malbec/15% bonarda/5% petit verdot sourced, primarily—renowned malbec and petit verdot—from Los Chacayes, Uco Valley 100 km to the south of Mendoza at 1250 meters a.s.l. It is a temperate climate with cold winters, and warm summers with cool evenings making for a wide diurnal temperature range. Soils are rocky with mixed with coarse sand and lime. The bonarda was sourced from Agrelo, Luján Cuyo which is 40 km to the south of Mendoza at 950 meters a.s.l. with a semi-arid and windy climate with cold winters, and warm summers with wide diurnal temperature shifts between days and nights. Grapes were hand-picked during March and April and were hand-selected at the winery with pre-fermentation maceration for seven days at a controlled 10 °C while fermentation lasted seven days at a controlled 26 °C in concrete tanks using selected and indigenous yeast strains while malo-lactic fermentation occurred naturally in concrete tanks, as well. Wine was then matured in French oak barrels—1/3rd new, 1/3rd second use, 1/3rd third use—for 12 months then 6 months in bottle before being released. Most wines from 2018 in these appellation and sub-appellations showed a return to normal yields, fruitier, riper wines with higher alcohol, better balance and rounded tannin.
89
Kaiken ‘Terroir Series’ Malbec-Bonarda-Petit Verdot 2018
Los Chacayes, Mendoza, Argentina $19.95 (450163) 14.5% alcohol
Very oaky on the nose at first, this red blend offers beautiful dark cherry, blackberry, allspice and cedar aromas after a vigorous swirl. Expect high acidity blanketing the tongue before flavours of mixed berry, purple plum and green peppercorn pull in along with chalky tannins, taking you on a dry, fruity-peppery astringent finish. Aerate/decant two hours and pour alongside rare flank steak on the grill or lamb burgers. (Louise Boutin)
Australia: White Wine
• The following 2018 ‘Jaraman’ Chardonnay won ‘Best of Show Australia White Wine’ at the recent ‘Mundus Vini Grand International Wine Awards’. It’s a unique blend of 66% Clare Valley / 34% Margaret River fruit with Taylor’s Chief Winemaker, Adam Eggins pointing out, “The Clare Valley parcel delivers mid-palate fleshiness whilst the Margaret River component contributes restrained green fruit notes that are typical of this region.”
95
Wakefield ‘Jaraman’ Chardonnay 2018
Clare Valley/Margaret River $24.95 (18921) 13.0% alcohol
Alluring aromas of baking spice—ginger and nutmeg—are joined by notions of lemon-lime and flinty minerality on the nose of this medium-bodied, gorgeously textured, show-stopping chardonnay. It bathes the palate with persistent purity of fruit—tangy lemon curd and wisps of racy grapefruit juxtaposed with riper, sweeter quince jelly, white nectarine and Mirabelle plum. These replay on the lingering, deftly balanced finish and aftertaste. Drink now and up to 2027 or so. It’s quite food friendly, give it a go with pork, chicken, veal or for an inspired choice – try this recipe, just for the halibut. (Vic Harradine)
Italy: Red Wine
• The following 2016 Dievole ‘Novocento – Riserva’ was sourced from 95% Sangiovese/3% Canaiolo/2% Colorino grapes by a winery and vineyard that has a documented history back to the year 1090. Fruit was fermented for 14-15 days in 75 hL unrefined cement vats at maximum controlled temperature of 26 °C to 28 °C. It matured for approximately 17 months in 41 hL untoasted French barrels then settled for six months in bottle before release.
94
Dievole ‘Novocento – Riserva’ 2016
DOCG Chianti Classico, Italy $33.95 (213926) 14.0% alcohol
Aromas waft easily and boast of red fruit, piquant spice and flinty mineral notes. It blankets the palate with a bountiful gusher of pie cherry and passionfruit robed in plenty of bracing acidity and balancing fruit flavours with black currant and black Bing cherry to the fore. This showcases structure, balance, hints of tannin and elegance, and ageability along with being versatile at the table. Pour after a two-hour aeration/decant with a premium cut of beef grilled medium-rare and well-seasoned with salt. (Vic Harradine)
New in Vintages (these are available now in Vintages section of LCBO retail stores)
• The following 2017 Benziger Family Winery Merlot has an accreditation from Demeter, USA for their ‘Sustainable Grape Growing Program’. The price-quality balance tips well in your favour; pick up a few.
93
Benziger Family Winery Merlot 2017
Sonoma County, California $24.95 (633156) 14.5% alcohol
Aromas of black currant, juicy black cherry and mixed spice abound on the nose with hints of toasty oak notes. It surges over the palate with delicious, well-balanced flavours of bramble berry and cherry clafoutie intertwined with gentle wisps of vanilla, cassis and bittersweet dark chocolate. This showcases excellent balance with soft, ripe tannin, fruit-forward flavours and the perfect amount of racy acidity, as well as a lengthy, mouth-watering finish and aftertaste that replay palate flavours. This is good to go now and on to 2026; pour with grilled skirt steak and Portobello mushrooms. (Vic Harradine)
• The following 2018 Wakefield ‘Estate Label’ Cabernet Sauvignon garnered a Platinum rating at the 2019 Sommelier Challenge International Wine & Spirits Competition and Double Gold at the 2019 Women’s Wine & Spirits Awards. It also was awarded ten Gold medals and a swag of Silver medals at wine competitions around the world. The Taylor family are also one of the founding members of the über-exclusive Australia’s First Families of Wine with just nine other iconic Australian wineries in the group.
92
Wakefield ‘Estate Label’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2018
Clare Valley, South Australia $19.95 (744235) 14.5% alcohol
Lifted aromas of dark cherry/berry fruit abound adorned with savoury herbs, espresso roast and wisps of minty notes. A rich, luscious surge of black currant and cassis blankets the palate decorated with dark bittersweet chocolate and vanilla and wisps of savoury herbs. It’s medium-full bodied, balanced and bountiful with persistent purity of fruit from entry to finish and after taste. Pour now or over the next eight years with grilled rack of lamb that was rubbed in rosemary. The price-quality balance is well in your favour. (Vic Harradine)
• The following 2018 7 Deadly Zins ‘Old Vine’ Zinfandel is a Vintage Essentials wine always available in many LCBO retail stores. The 2018 vintage in this unique part of Lodi was quite good. This was matured for just under one year in American oak.
91
7 Deadly Zins ‘Old Vine’ Zinfandel 2018
Lodi, California $21.95 (59311) 15.0% alcohol
Plum compote and crushed blueberry come to mind when nosing this ‘old vines’ zin, followed by raspberry, vanilla and cedar aromas emerging as you get deeper in the glass. A juicy flow of ripe blackberry, purple plum and raspberry glides on the palate with gentle heat and peppery notes. Tannins are present yet smooth and the sweet/savoury note in the finish makes you go back for more. Definitely a crowd pleaser, this full-bodied versatile red is a safe buy and is delicious with lamb burgers or glazed beef short ribs. (Louise Boutin)
New in LCBO Portfolio - General List (available in stores now)
• The following 2018 Slow Press Wines ‘Craft Vinted Wines’ Cabernet Sauvignon is a blend of 80% cabernet sauvignon/8% petit verdot/8% petite sirah/4% merlot sourced from three key cabernet sauvignon producing regions in California—Paso Robles, San Lucas, Monterey and Lodi. The fruit underwent an extended cold soak and slow fermentation then was gently pressed. It underwent malolactic fermentation and was aged nine months in American oak barrels.
90
Slow Press Wines ‘Craft Vinted Wines’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2018
California $18.95 (15760) 13.5% alcohol
Piquant spice, savoury herbs and juicy black cherry aromas dominate the nose. This blankets the palate with a creamy smooth, medium-full bodied river of black currant and crème de cassis liqueur decorated with notions of mint and toasty notes and just enough tang to provide interest and good balance. There’s persistent purity of fruit, deft balance, good structure and a lingering fruit-filled finish and replays of palate flavours. Pour with gourmet sausage, backyard burgers or beef fajitas. (Vic Harradine)
• The following 2018 Tribute Winery Cabernet Sauvignon was sourced from certified sustainable vineyards located within three renowned California growing regions—San Benito County, Paso Robles and the estate-owned San Lucas Vineyard near the town of Monterey. Fruit underwent malolactic fermentation then matured for 13 months on toasted French and American oak.
91
Tribute Winery Cabernet Sauvignon 2018
California $19.95 (20807) 14.0% alcohol
Alluring aromas of exotic spice, black plum and juicy black Bing cherry abound. It captures the palate with a full-Monty surge of full-bodied, rich and luscious flavours of cassis, dark cherry and bramble berry intertwined with excellent tang and acidity delivered on pie cherry and passionfruit flavours. This showcases varietal flavours, deft balance and oodles of pizzazz. It finishes with good energy and a lengthy finish and aftertaste. Pour with grilled burgers or steak or pasta puttanesca. (Vic Harradine)
• The following 2017 Stave & Steel Wine ‘Canadian Whisky Barrel Finished’ Cabernet Sauvignon was created exclusively for Canada with Whisky barrels sourced from Hiram Walker’s facility in Windsor, Ontario. The 100% California cabernet sauvignon wine was aged 4 months in previously used whiskey barrels.
91
Stave & Steel Wine ‘Canadian Whisky Barrel Finished’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2017
California $19.95 (13733) 15.0% alcohol
Aromas of dark chocolate and espresso roast coffee precede a lip-smacking wash of flavour with dark cherry/berry fruit, toffee, blueberry and excellent tang and pizzazz to the fore. This is medium-plus bodied with good balance, fully textured, and underpinned with supple tannin. The lingering fruit-flavoured finish and aftertaste mimics and replays palate flavours. Pour with grilled striploin, burgers or smoked brisket and roast potatoes. (Vic Harradine)
• The following 2018 Stave & Steel Wine ‘Bourbon Barrel Aged’ Cabernet Sauvignon was matured for 4 months in previously used charred bourbon barrels.
90
Stave & Steel Wine ‘Bourbon Barrel Aged’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2018
California $19.95 (541946) 13.5% alcohol
Charred toast, piquant spice, earthy and leather aromas abound on the nose. It envelops the palate with flavours of pie cherry and cranberry adorned with good tang and pizzazz along with riper flavours of dark plum, black currant and hints of sweet vanilla. This is full bodied and well textured with balance and persistent purity of fruit through the lengthy finish. Pour with osso buco, cassoulet, or chili con carne with mashed potatoes. (Vic Harradine)
Upstream in winecurrent
Vintages Release: November 13, 2021
91
Best’s ‘Great Western – Bin No. 1’ 2018
Great Western, Victoria, Australia $21.95 (222323) 14.0% alcohol
Peppery piquant spice, floral notes and aromas of grilled savory herbs are decorated with ripe mulberry fruit, cassis and black licorice on the nose of this elegant, well balanced, structured and delicious Aussie shiraz. Palate flavours of dark cherry fruit and red berry fruit—cherries and cranberries—come to the fore just past mid-palate and persist through the luscious, mouth-watering finish. This is good to go now and on to 2028; pour alongside grilled backyard burgers or grilled gourmet sausage and Portobello mushrooms. (Vic Harradine)
• The following 2018 Cune ‘Reserva – Rioja’ was sourced from 100% hand-harvested viura white grapes grown on bush vines at 400m a.s.l. in the premium growing area of Rioja, Spain where it was full-cluster pressed, fermented and aged for 18 months in oak barrel before bottling and release. This is the traditional way of Cune producing this wine.
92
Cune ‘Reserva – Rioja’ 2018
DOCa Rioja, Spain $22.95 (22446) 13.0% alcohol
This intriguing vegan white displays aromas of tropical fruit, coconut and a touch of vanilla. It coats the palate with exquisite flavours of pear, tangy pineapple, a replay of coconut and a nice mouth-watering saline note taking you to the finish with a delicious mild bitter twist. There are tons of value in this well-crafted medium-full-bodied gem and it’s a great alternative to oaked chardonnay. Pair with paella for a traditional match or with light cream chicken or seafood pasta. (Louise Boutin)
• The following 2020 Henry of Pelham ‘Lost Boys - Bin 106 – Limited Edition’ Baco Noir was sourced from vines more than thirty years old that were shovel planted by the three Speck brothers. This is a single vineyard wine from an exceptional block that is sustainably grown and accredited by SWM. The low-yielding fruit—3.5 tonnes per acre--was gently moved by gravity at the winery destemmed and mechanically sorted with cap managed by pulse-air during fermentation with all juice separated from skins with no press wine added back. Only top-performing barrels were chosen for the final blend of this wine. The dazzling VQA Ontario 2020 vintage certainly plays a positive role here.
91
Henry of Pelham ‘Lost Boys - Bin 106 – Limited Edition’ Baco Noir 2020
VQA Ontario $29.95 (13421) 13.5% alcohol
An intense purple robe staining the edge of the glass introduces attractive aromas of mixed crushed berry, black currant, hard crusted bread, forest floor and a hint of smoke. Careful use of American oak—50% new--allows the fruit to shine here with beautiful flavours of dark cherry, raspberry, blackberry and zesty orange peel followed by a savoury and slightly peppery note in the juicy finish. This medium-bodied red with mellow tannins inspires a pairing with BBQ sauce pork rib. (Louise Boutin)
• Thirty years ago, the Rombauer family started crafting chardonnay from the Carneros region because the cooler climate and the clay soil were ideal for growing superior quality fruit. This 2019 vintage is from whole-cluster pressed juice that went through full malolactic conversion in a combination of American and French oak barrels for nine months with frequent lees stirring.
94
Rombauer Vineyards Carneros Chardonnay 2019
Carneros, California $63.95 (441089) 14.5% alcohol
This chardonnay will transport you to your favourite movie theatre with its buttered popcorn aromas followed with peach, vanilla and nutmeg notes. It treats the palate with a coating wash of rich toasted bread and nut flavours mingling with vanilla poached pear, tangy lemon rind, salted butter and piquant spice. Definitely complex and full-bodied opulent, yet beautifully balanced. Pour alongside coquille St-Jacques or baked brie for a comforting and delightful treat. (Louise Boutin)
Vintages Release: November 27, 2021
• The following 2019 Henry of Pelham (Speck Family Reserve) Pinot Noir is barely a teenager, though strutting its stuff now and certainly flashing signs of an enhanced future after even short-term cellaring. Sourced from older vines—some shovel planted 35 years before this fruit was harvested—that are sustainably grown under, and accredited by, SWM. Fruit was hand harvested, gently destemmed and mechanically sorted. It was then stainless steel vat fermented with the cap punched down by hand. It was then aged in European oak, 30% new then married together with the balance in pre-loved oak with total oak maturation being ten months.
92
Henry of Pelham (Speck Family Reserve) Pinot Noir 2019
VQA Short Hills Bench $34.95 (657874) 13.0% alcohol
Grilled savoury herbs and mixed spice aromas mingle with red berry fruit on the nose of this young and fresh pinot. A lively flow of flavours race over the palate with crunchy pie cherry and passionfruit intertwined with sweet black plum and hints of black cherry along with savoury herbs and a firm tannin underpinning. There’s replays of palate flavours and mouth-watering tang on the lengthy finish. Time in the cellar should pay off handsomely, pick up a few and pour starting in 2023. Impatient? Aerate/decant three hours and pour alongside roast fowl with all the fixings. (Vic Harradine)
• The following 2018 Ferraton Père & Fils ‘Le Parvis’ is a blend of primarily grenache along with a small percentage of syrah and mourvèdre. It was sourced from typical Rhone Valley soils of red clay, and rounded pebbles from the Rhone River. Grapes are destemmed at the winery then vinified in vats with extraction by punch-downs and pumping over with maceration lasting approximately 20 days at temperatures between 25 – 30 °C.
93
Ferraton Père & Fils ‘Le Parvis’ 2018
AOP Châteauneuf-Du-Pape, France $58.95 (638551) 15.0% alcohol
You’ll be greeted with a complex nose of beautiful aromas—dark cherry, cola, coffee beans and baking spice. An opulent and silky liquid caress the palate delivering flavours of dark cherry, cooked strawberry and a hint of orange zest all wrapped in a lasting warm blanket, remember this is 15% alcohol. The finish offers a persistent combination of ripe red fruit flavour and dry herb mingling perfectly together. This gorgeous full-bodied red with polished tannins will benefit from 2-3 hours of aeration/decant to ease the heat on most palates. This is a great wine to pair with slow-simmered beef and carrot stew or venison dishes. (Louise Boutin)
• The following 2017 Bodega Alvear ‘Pedro Ximénez de Añada’ is a dessert wine, technically not Sherry—although grapes from this region are used for the base wine in making PX Sherry as the designated ‘Sherry triangle’ doesn’t have sufficient PX grapes. It’s not fortified, but rather it’s fashioned from grapes laid out to dry and raisin in the sun on mats, then pressed, fermented and finally aged 12 months in traditional earthenware jars called ‘tinajas’, see photo below—it’s absolutely delicious. The Alvear family got their start in 1729 and it’s still family owned and managed—now by 50 Alvear family members.
95
Alvear ‘Pedro Ximénez de Añada 2017
DOP Montilla-Moriles, Spain $24.95 375 mL (499152) 16.0% alcohol
This is pure ambrosia, nectar of the gods. It’s slightly dark-hued in the glass. Aromas of dried fruits—date, fig, molasses and raisin—abound on the nose. The palate’s treated to a sweet, not cloying, almost stunning surge of blackstrap molasses, buckwheat honey and light maple syrup mingling with orange zest, currants, notions of vegemite, toasted almonds and roasted pecans. It magically turns dry almost tangy on the finish and aftertaste as it counterbalances the sweetness. It’s hi octane, so better to pour into small dessert wine glasses. This pairs well with your palate as the dessert, or, if you wish, mince-meat tarts, butter tarts or dark fruit cake. (Vic Harradine)
• The following méthode traditionelle, vintage-dated, 2016 Henry of Pelham ‘Cuvée Catharine – Carte Blanche - Estate - Blanc de Blanc’ is named for family matriarch Catherine Smith—Henry of Pelham’s wife. It was hand harvested, bunch selected from 100% chardonnay, whole-cluster pressed, partially barrel fermented, maturing on its lees more than four years in the bottle(s) you purchase before disgorgement—aka, expelling spent yeast cells from the 2nd fermentation.in this bottle,
93
Henry of Pelham ‘Cuvée Catharine – Carte Blanche - Estate - Blanc de Blanc’ 2016
VQA Short Hills Bench $49.95 (315200) 12.5% alcohol
This top-notch, vintage-dated sparkling wine is one of the top traditional-method, vintage-dated sparkling wines on the market, regardless of country of origin. Aromas of yeasty notes, baking brioche and flinty minerality make way for a profusion of fine-bead bubbles that endlessly wind their way to the top of your glass. This has complexity, purity of fruit, good tension, is well balanced with a painter’s palette of lively flavour—a surge of racy lemon and lime tang adorned with white nectarine, nutty and mineral notes dazzle the palate infusing the lingering finish and aftertaste. This is classy, elegant and wired for sipping on its own for two or with festive food when entertaining, eg roast turkey or baked ham with all the fixings. (Vic Harradine)
Vintage Release: TBD, 2021
• The following 2020 Chateau Maison Bordeaux Supérieur was sourced from 25 year-old vines of 60% merlot/30% cabernet sauvignon/10% cabernet franc planted in clay and limestone soil. The grapes were vinified in thermoregulated stainless steel tanks, It was cold macerated for 24 hours then inoculated for malo-lactic fermentation then matured in 30% French oak barrel and the balance in stainless steel vats and cement.
89
Château Maison Noble 2020
AOC Bordeaux Supérieur, France $18.95 (24495) 14.0% alcohol
This is a bright purple blend of 60% merlot/30% cabernet sauvignon/10% cabernet franc with youthful aromas of crushed mixed berry, lilac and a distant note of bell pepper. A softly textured flow of ripe dark fruit flavours travels the palate before suddenly drying the mouth and leaving freshly cracked peppercorn and green bell pepper character on the finish and aftertaste. This medium-full bodied red needs time to soften and offer its full personality. If opened now, aerate/decant 2-3 hours and serve with juicy meat in tomato sauce with pasta. (Louise Boutin)
90
Chàteau Maison Noble ‘Saint Martin’ 2020
AOC Bordeaux, France $16.95 (14785) 13.5% alcohol
This red blend—60 merlot/30% cabernet sauvignon/10% cabernet franc—dishes up a lovely nose of lifted aromas with juicy red cherry/berry fruit and savoury herbs to the fore. It glides over the palate creamy smooth and fruit-filled with black currant, ripe juicy black cherry and balancing pizzazz in the form of pie cherries that persist through the mid-palate to the mouth-watering finish and aftertaste. This is delicious, balanced and underpinned by soft tannin. The quality-cost balance tips well in your favour; pick up a few and drink now to 2026. (Vic Harradine)
92
Vaucher Père et Fils Fleurie 2020
AOC Fleurie, Beaujolais, France $17.95 (534339) 13.5% alcohol
No sign of bubble gum despite carbonic maceration in this beautiful cru Beaujolais but plenty of raspberry, strawberry aromas, a hint of red licorice and white mushroom. Ripe fruit flavours of red cherry, tangy raspberry and pomegranate delivered in a soft-textured flow treats the palate, followed with just enough powdery tannins adding backbone to the fruit-forward finish and delicious savoury aftertaste. If you haven’t tried a Beaujolais lately, give this one a try, it won’t disappoint, especially at this bargain price. Pair with duck confit, roasted ham or charcuterie. The options are endless. (Louise Boutin)
• The following 2020 Provolo ‘Costa Del Monte’ is certified organic. It was sourced from 60% Müller-Thurgau/40% Chardonnay vines with an average age of 10 years planted at 900 meters above sea level. The fruit was hand-harvested then macerated on skins for six hours at 10 °C before being fermented in stainless steel for 20 days at controlled temperatures of 10-14 °C. It then matured in stainless steel for three to four months then kept in bottle for a further two months before being released. The price-quality balance tips well in your favour; pick up an armful, then go back for more.
91
Provolo ‘Costa Del Monte’ 2020
IGT Bianco Veneto. Italy $17.95 13.0% alcohol
Beguiling aromas of exotic spice, soft citrussy notes and wisps of white flowers dominate the nose of this 60% müller-thurgau/40% chardonnay white blend. It’s crisp and refreshing with lemon-lime cordial, and hints of pineapple and honeydew melon being prominent as palate flavours in this just off-dry beauty. Light-medium bodied with good mouthfeel, it replays palate flavours throughout the dry finish. Pour with all manner of fish or seafood or as an aperitif or with lighter-styled appetizers. (Vic Harradine)
92
Villa Montepaldi Chianti Classico ‘Tagliafune’ 2019
DOCG Chianti Classico $17.95 (18588) 14.0% alcohol
This is a single vineyard blend of 80% sangiovese with a dash of cabernet, merlot, alicante and colorino with profound aromas—dry cherry, spice cupboard, leather and potpourri. The first sip is velvety on the palate carrying ripe red and black fruit flavours along with cinnamon spiciness and clove all framed in fine grained tannin and lovely acidity, finishing warm with persistent savoury notes. There is so much in this wine for this price tag, including cellaring potential. Aerate/decant one hour and enjoy with hearty homemade lasagna or eggplant parmigiana. (Louise Boutin)
94
Villa Montepaldi Chianti Classico Riserva ‘Tagliafune’ 2017
DOCG Chianti Classico $22.95 14.5% alcohol
Dry cherry, stewed prune, cola, leather, star anise, balsamic notes and I could go on to describe this gorgeous single vineyard sangiovese blend aged in wooden vats a minimum of 21 months. It glides on the palate with elegance offering mature and concentrated flavours of dried fruit, earthiness and caraway notes and a long, warm, comforting savoury finish. This full-bodied beauty is the perfect balance of finesse and structure with its fine-grained tannins and while it is totally enjoyable now it will only improve with a few more years of cellaring. Slowly simmered osso buco would be an excellent pairing. (Louise Boutin)
New in Ontario Wineries
• The following six Fogolar Winery Wines can be ordered from this Link www.drinkcollab.ca. They offer FREE SHIPPING on 6 or more bottles, or on orders over $150.00 .
• The following 2019 Fogolar Wines Riesling was sourced from hand-picked and machine-harvested fruit in select Niagara Peninsula locations before being destemmed and gently pressed. It was initially started with select non-Saccharomyces yeast before being inoculated with Saccharomyces yeast strains. One fermentation was halted partway through to preserve a large portion of residual sugar and aromatic intensity with the other fermentation processes arrested with a small percentage of residual sugar remaining then all were blended together. It was then aged ten months in stainless steel. The price-quality balance tips wildly in your favour. Pick up a few while it lasts and drink now or over the next five years. (Vic Harradine)
91
Fogolar Wines Riesling 2019
VQA Niagara Peninsula $14.95 10.4% alcohol
Alluring aromas of pit fruit—peach and yellow plum—mingle with a wisp of petrol on the nose of this exceptional-value riesling. It captures the palate with a surge of off-dry flavour—lime cordial, lemon curd and hints of pomelo. This is medium-plus bodied with creamy-smooth texture and plenty of tang and pizzazz. It finishes lengthy and clean, crisp and refreshing. What’s not to like? Pour with tandoori chicken, pad Thai or General Tso’s chicken. (Vic Harradine)
• The following 2019 Fogolar Wines ‘Hughes Vineyard’ Riesling was sourced from hand-picked fruit in Hughes Vineyard located in the VQA sub-appellation of Lincoln Lakeshore barely one Km from Lake Ontario. Fruit was destemmed and gently pressed. It was initially started with select non-Saccharomyces yeast before being inoculated with Saccharomyces yeast strains. The fermentation was halted partway through to preserve a large portion of residual sugar (26 g/L residual sugar) and aromatic intensity.
93
Fogolar Wines ‘Hughes Vineyard’ Riesling 2019
VQA Lincoln Lakeshore $19.95 9.1% alcohol
Lifted and exotic aromas leap from the glass with honeyed citrus notes, incense and lemon cake to the fore. It’s medium-plus bodied with dazzling palate flavours of poached pear, Mirabelle plum juxtaposed with plenty of lip-smacking, racy acidity. This is a full- Monty riesling showcasing plenty of everything—texture, flavour, balance, sweetness, acidity, long finish and aftertaste—it’s powerful and pure ambrosia. Kudos to winemaker Marc Pistor and his team for fashioning this beauty. (Vic Harradine)
• The following 2019 Fogolar Wines ‘Hanck Vineyard’ Riesling was sourced from Riesling fruit from Hanck Vineyard located on the VQA sub-appellation, Twenty Mile Bench. Fruit was machine harvested destemmed then gently pressed following a three-hour cold soak. It was fermented cool in stainless steel with select yeast strains. Fermentation was arrested with a small portion of fermentable sugar remaining (7 g/L residual sugar) to enhance the palate texture and weight. This was aged for 10 months in stainless steel.
92
Fogolar Wines ‘Hanck Vineyard’ Riesling 2019
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $19.95 12.0% alcohol
Aromas of wet-stone minerality, green apple and lemon zest abound on the nose. Racy palate flavours of lemon-lime, passionfruit and Granny Smith apple ride a wave of refreshing acidity and oodles of tang and pizzazz. It’s dry and clean as a whistle from cork pop to last drop while palate flavours replay on the juicy finish and monumentally lengthy aftertaste. Pour this on its own as an aperitif to get the gustatory juices flowing or alongside freshly shucked Malpec oysters decorated with a squeeze of fresh lemon, a drop or two of hot sauce and a smidgeon of horseradish. (Vic Harradine)
• The following 2018 Fogolar Wines Cabernet Franc was sourced from select Niagara vineyards and carefully selected and hand-picked fruit. Once at the winery it was destemmed into stainless steel along with 25% whole-cluster fruit. Roughly 20% was bled off for rosé and to concentrate remaining must. A second batch was machine harvested, optically sorted and whole-berry fermented. Both batches were fermented warm in stainless steel on their skins for 28 days before being pressed. It was then matured for 18 months in pre-loved French oak before being filtered and bottled.
89
Fogolar Wines Cabernet Franc 2018
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 12.7% alcohol
This white-label cabernet franc is light-ruby hued in the glass and gives up lifted aromas of rose petals, bell pepper and grilled savoury herbs. It spreads over the palate with plenty of tangy acidity delivered by crunchy, red-fruit flavours—passionfruit, pie cherry and cranberry. The tannins are supple, the texture is medium-bodied while the finish replays palate flavours of mouth-watering tang. Pour with pasta in tomato sauce, red pizza with pepperoni, mushrooms and bacon or spaghetti in Bolognese sauce. (Vic Harradine)
• The following 2018 Fogolar Wines ‘Picone Vineyard’ Cabernet Franc was sourced from a single vineyard of cabernet franc from the VQA sub-appellation of Vinemount Ridge. Fruit was primarily hand-picked and destemmed into stainless steel along with 25% hand-picked whole-cluster fruit. About 20% of the volume was bled off for rosé and to concentrate remaining must, Fermented warm in stainless steel on their skins for 28 days before being pressed, it was then matured for 24 months in pre-loved French oak before being filtered and bottled.
93
Fogolar Wines ‘Picone Vineyard’ Cabernet Franc 2018
VQA Vinemount Ridge $39.95 13.1% alcohol
Aromas of red cherry/berry fruit, earthy notes and piquant spice waft easily from the glass with a slight swirl. This has good structure, is fully textured and blankets the palate with black cherry/berry flavours—currant, Bing cherry and bramble berry. It’s medium-full bodied with satin-smooth mouthfeel and good balance with ripe tannin, tangy acidity and ripe fruit flavours. There are notions of elegance and grace with plenty to like about this cab franc. Pour with a thick slice of striploin grilled medium-rare. I doff my cap to winemaker Marc Pistor and his team for this dazzling cab franc. (Vic Harradine)
• The following 2018 Fogolar Wines ‘Oppenlaender Vineyard’ Cabernet Franc was sourced from a single vineyard of cabernet franc in the VQA sub-appellation of Four Mile Creek that’s within the VQA’s Regional Appellation of ‘Niagara-on-the-Lake’. Fruit was machine picked and optically sorted on October 19, 2018 before being whole-berry fermented for 28 days then pressed. It matured 24 months in neutral French oak.
91
Fogolar Wines ‘Oppenlaender Vineyard’ Cabernet Franc 2018
VQA Four Mile Creek $36.95 12.9% alcohol
There are delicate aromas of floral notes, savoury herbs and notions of green bell pepper. A surge of crunchy red fruit riding on a wave of racy acidity dominate the palate—red currant, pie cherry and cranberry—and make their way through the mouth-watering finish and aftertaste. This delivers good texture and mouthfeel with an underpinning of still-evolving tannin that can be easily ameliorated with three-hour aeration/decant. This is good to go now or carefully cellar for a couple of more years. You could also pour now with your favourite steak grilled medium-rare with a shake or two of seasoned salt on each side and rubbed in; this and the aeration/decant should give you a very pleasant experience. (Vic Harradine)
• For daily home, office or restaurant delivery for the following two wines are sold at the winery only, order online from this link Malivoire Wine Company with FREE shipping on orders of $99 or more, or $20 credited next business day towards delivery outside Ontario and Québec. Phone 905-563-9253 Monday to Friday 10 am - 5 pm on weekdays and noon to 5 pm Saturday and Sunday for information and for locals to access curbside pickup instructions. Their retail shop is now open - 10 am - 5 pm on weekdays, and noon to 5 pm on Saturday and Sunday. There are guidelines due to COVID-19 that change often, best to phone or email first (the website has a space to type and is linked to their email).
• The following 2020 Malivoire Wine ‘Genova’ Gamay was sourced from a single vineyard high on the Vinemount Ridge where it enjoys basking in the sun at daybreak. Grape clusters meeting the watchful eyes and strict criteria of Malivoire’s winemaker were hand-picked and sorted by hand on October 8th, 2020 as Brix levels reached 22.2 °. 67% of the newly harvested fruit was crushed and poured into a limestone-concrete tank, alternately placed between layers of the remaining 33% which was kept in whole clusters. Following primary fermentation and malo-lactic conversion the wine aged in neutral barrels of French oak for six months before bottling.
90
Malivoire Wine ‘Genova’ Gamay 2020
VQA Vinemount Ridge $27.95 12.0% alcohol
Alluring aromas of rose petals, exotic spice, savoury herbs and wild strawberry open the doors to a flood of palate flavours with tangy Montmorency cherry, passionfruit and peppery, piquant spice to the fore. It’s light on its feet with plenty of pizzazz and mouth-watering acidity on the palate finish and aftertaste. Give this a go with pasta in Bolognese sauce or pasta puttanesca. (Vic Harradine)
• The following 2020 Malivoire Wine ‘Demo – Analog’ Cabernet Franc – Gamay was sourced from 73% cabernet franc from the Wismer Homestead property and 27% gamay from the Wismer, Foxcroft vineyard. The gamay was 65% crushed and 35% in whole clusters was layered into a concrete tank with cabernet franc berries of which 52% were in clusters and 48% were crushed. After extended carbonic maceration under indigenous yeast the wine was pressed and divided in equal portions for malo-lactic conversion and maturing in older French oak barriques or ceramic orbs.
92
Malivoire Wine ‘Demo – Analog’ Cabernet Franc - Gamay 2020
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $24.95 13.0% alcohol
Aromas of red and black cherry/berry fruit mingle with grilled savoury herbs and wisps of mixed spice and medicinal notes. It envelopes the palate with a stream of crunchy red fruit—pie cherry, cranberry and passionfruit decorated with herbs and spice that replays on the finish along with strawberry and red raspberry. This is medium-plus bodied with good texture and mouthfeel and would benefit from another two years in bottle as still-evolving tannin is ever present. Aerate/decant this for two or three hours pouring with prawn and chorizo paella, chili con carne or red pizza with pepperoni, mushroom and bacon. (Vic Harradine)
• Order the following four wines by the case for daily office, home or restaurant delivery direct by toll-free phone 1-888-399-1183 from 10 am to 5 pm daily, online from the winery using this link - Rosehall Run - or pick it up from the cellar door on your next visit to the winery 1243 Greer Rd, Wellington, Ontario K0K 3L0 in Prince Edward County – it’s an easy two-hour drive, or less, from the GTA or Ottawa via the 401 Their Take-Away Bottle Shop (no inside access) is still available 7 days a week, 11-5 for those that wish. You may call your orders in, order online or simply walk up and one of their tasting associates will be happy to help. Check their site for the latest COVID-19 information re gaining access to their winery. - Here’s a map.
• The following 2020 Rosehall Run ‘Estate Grown and Bottled - Hungry Point’ Sauvignon Blanc was sourced from estate-grown vines yielding a modest 2.6T/acre of intensely flavoured fruit. This wine was barrel fermented in older larger barriques along with one new barrel of Acacia wood to the six months of barrel-fermented élevage.
92
Rosehall Run ‘Estate Grown and Bottled - Hungry Point’ Sauvignon Blanc 2020
VQA Prince Edward County $28.00 12.5% alcohol
Aromas of gooseberry, nettles and savoury herbs precede a full-bodied mouthful of creamy smooth, palate flavours of green apple and lemon-lime zest adorned with oodles of vibrant tang and excellent acidity. Palate flavours replay on the finish and aftertaste joined by piquant minerality. This is a lovely example of PEC sauvignon blanc showcasing good depth, texture, balance and lip-smacking flavour from twist top to final drop. Pour with line-caught, pan-seared freshwater fish under a generous squeeze of fresh lemon or an arugula salad tossed with olive oil and sherry vinegar then decorated with crumbled chèvre. (Vic Harradine)
• The following 2020 Rosehall Run ‘Small Lots’ Gewürztraminer was sourced from 100% Gewürztraminer grapes on the VQA Twenty Mile Bench from the Nedelko Vineyard in Niagara. Many of the grapes came from vines almost thirty years old. The grapes were fermented in old neutral wood.
93
Rosehall Run ‘Nedelko Vineyard’ Gewürztraminer 2020
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $28.00 14.5% alcohol
This is highly perfumed on the nose with aromas of apricot, rosewater and piquant spice. A surge of creamy-smooth, medium-full textured palate flavours—ripe yellow peach, spiced poached pear and notions of peel marmalade. This showcases, alluring aromas, wonderful mouthfeel, excellent texture, deft balance, dazzling palate flavours and a lengthy fruit-forward finish and aftertaste. Pour with steamed and butter-dipped lobster. (Vic Harradine)
• The fruit in the following 2020 Rosehall Run ‘Estate Grown and Bottled - Hungry Point’ Pinot Gris were the first grapes harvested for the 2020 vintage from seven-year-old vines at Rosehall Run and they were picked at optimum ripeness. Their largest barrels were utilised for this wine and for most of their estate-grown white wines.
93
Rosehall Run ‘Estate Grown and Bottled – Hungry Point’ Pinot Gris 2020
VQA Prince Edward County $26.00 12.5% alcohol
Delicate aromas of lemon zest and mineral notes can be coaxed with a vigorous swirl. It’s highly textured and full-flavoured on the palate with oodles of tang and pizzazz. Flavours of lemon curd, lime cordial and delightful blood orange coat the palate and persist through the lip-smacking finish and aftertaste. It’s delicious to sip on its own and ambrosia to pour alongside your favourite fish or shellfish under a squeeze of fresh lemon. (Vic Harradine)
• The following 2019 Rosehall Run ‘Small Lots – Nedelko Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot UV was harvested entirely from the Nedelko Vineyard in the VQA sub-appellation of Twenty Mile Bench in the latter part of November, narrowly missing the first snowstorm of the season. The wine spent 17 months aging in pre-loved French and American barrels with approximately 20% of the lot maturing in new French oak for added structure and depth.
92
Rosehall Run ‘Small Lots – Nedelko Vineyard – UV’ Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot 2019
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $39.00 13.5% alcohol
Alluring aromas of black juicy cherry, black currant, dark toast and bramble berry jam dominate the nose of this juicy red blend—65% cabernet sauvignon/35% merlot. It envelops the palate with deftly balanced flavours of black raspberry jam, cherry clafoutie and pie cherry, with the latter adding the balance. It showcases structure, fruit-forward flavour, deft balance and depth. This is all underpinned by still-evolving tannin that can be ameliorated by a three-hour aeration/decant or by careful bottle cellaring for another two years. The purity of flavour persists to and through the lengthy finish and aftertaste. Pour now and on to 2026 and beyond pairing with a grilled, premium cut of thick steak with seasoned salt rubbed in on both sides that will show grill marks. (Vic Harradine)
LCBO ‘Limited Time Offers’ – Now to November 7, 2021
• Regardless of the vintage you purchase from the LCBO, you’ll receive the discount shown below for each bottle of wine reviewed below that’s purchased (either ‘in person’ or online) from now to November 7, 2021.
White Wines
• The following five wines will have a discount of $2.00 taken off the price shown below for each bottle purchased from now to November 7, 2021
87
Anselmi ‘San Vincenzo’
IGT Veneto, Italy $16.95 (948158) 12.5% alcohol
An über-savory nose of grassy notes and sprigs of savory herbs dressed in piquant spice provide segue to this garganega blend. The mid-weight, lightly textured stream of palate-pleasing flavour skips over the palate with flavours of lemongrass, pear and wisps of apple persisting through the mid-length finish and aftertaste. Pour on its own as a pleasant pre-dinner sipper. (Vic Harradine)
• The following Flat Rock Cellars Riesling is a Vintages Essentials wine always found in select LCBO retail stores.
90
Flat Rock Cellars Riesling
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $17.95 (43281) 11.0% alcohol
Aromas of yellow peach and green apple drizzled with lime mingle with piquant spice and mineral notes on the nose of this lovely off-dry riesling. It envelops the palate with a tang-laden surge of lime cordial and lemon curd persisting through the finish and aftertaste decorated with wisps of saline minerality. It’s quite food friendly; pour alongside spicy Asian fare like tandoori chicken or moo shu pork or Moroccan-style lamb tagine. (Vic Harradine)
88
La Crema Chardonnay
Sonoma Coast $29.95 (962886) 13.5% alcohol
This is an elegant chardonnay with subtle oak aromas on the nose combined with notes of apple and minerality. It’s medium-full bodied with zesty acidity delivering green apple and citrus flavours on the palate. The finish is tangy and underlined with clean minerality. This will evolve nicely in the cellar for a few years, and can be enjoyed with shrimp parmesan pasta. (Dave Isaacs)
87
Mer Soleil ‘Reserve’ Chardonnay
Santa Lucia Highlands, Monterey County $29.95 (958975) 14.9% alcohol
Baking spice, caramel and toasty, buttery aromas unleash a huge gusher of flavour that will leave few imbibers without a strong opinion. If you’re looking for a full-bodied, fully textured, high-octane, tsunami wave of rich, luscious, sweet flavours—grilled pineapple, oak-inspired vanillin and caramel apple—then you should love this. There are tropical fruit notes along with ripe pear, a bit of citrus pith and wisps of oak on the sweet-tinged finish and aftertaste—not for the faint of palate. (Vic Harradine)
• The following 2017 Tawse ‘Sketches of Niagara’ Riesling is a Vintages Essentials wine always found in select LCBO stores.
92
Tawse ‘Sketches of Niagara’ Riesling
VQA Niagara Peninsula $18.95 (89029) 10.0% alcohol
An assortment of hand-harvested grapes from select vineyards in the Niagara Peninsula fashioned this delectable fruit-forward, off-dry, low-alcohol gem. Fragrant petrol notes introduce ripe nectarine, grapefruit, Asian pear aromas and a whiff of nutmeg. The palate’s mellow with rich, stone fruit flavours flirting with perfectly balanced acidity and minerality. This is perfect to sip on its own or paired with pomelo and spicy crab salad. (Louise Boutin)
• The following wine will have a discount of $3.00 taken off the price shown below for each bottle purchased from now to November 7, 2021
90
Stoneleigh ‘Latitude’ Sauvignon Blanc
Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand (324228) $21.95 13.0% alcohol
The fruit for this gem was sourced from the ‘Golden Mile’ in Marlborough, it’s blessed with extra warmth relayed by the stones covering the soil that allow the grapes to fully mature. Partially hand-harvested and aged six months in French oak, this delicious white offers citrus aromas along with lactic, cedar, grassy and mineral notes. Deliciously tart and crisp on the palate, this is medium bodied with flavours of grapefruit, honeydew melon and lime zest finished with beautiful minerality. Try alongside scallop ceviche for a mouth-watering pairing. (Louise Boutin)
Red Wines
• The following 10 red wines are $2.00 per bottle off the price shown below from now to November 7, 2021
89
13th Street Gamay Noir
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (177824) 13.0% alcohol
Smoke, spice and gamy notes roll from this juicy, lively, rustic gamay. The palate’s treated to a medium-bodied, nicely textured mouthful of red and dark berry fruit robed in excellent racy acidity along with mixed spice and bacon notes persisting through the dry finish. For full enjoyment, aerate/decant a couple of hours before pouring. (Vic Harradine)
• The following Bodega Y Viñedos Catena ‘High Mountain Vines’ Malbec is Catena Zapata’s flagship malbec wine sourced from high mountain vines planted in four estate vineyards throughout Mendoza’s premium sub-regions. It spent 12 months in French oak barrels from new to second-year and third-year use. Catena Zapata was named, ‘The World’s Most Admired Wine Brand’ in 2020 by Drinks International. The price-quality balance tips well in your favour. Pick up a case and drink over the next ten or more years.
93
Bodega Y Viñedos Catena ‘High Mountain Vines’ Malbec
Mendoza, Argentina $19.95 (478727) 13.5% alcohol
Aromas of sweet vanilla, oaky notes and leather precede a lively gusher of spice-laden dark cherry/berry fruit with black currant, red cherry and blueberry to the fore. This showcases its high altitude vineyards, deft balance, good weight and texture and plenty of tangy acidity throughout. It also delivers in spades through the delicious and lengthy finish and aftertaste. Pour alongside grilled rare to medium-rare beefsteak. (Vic Harradine)
89
Cathedral Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon
WO Paarl, South Africa $17.95 (328567) 13.0% alcohol
Smoky, earthy and dried cherry aromatics waft from the glass of this medium-bodied red. There are a good deal of sweet, black, ripe cherry and plum flavours with hints of chocolate and tar in the involved flavour profile. All this is wrapped around perceptible tannins and oaky notes that may need some time to quiet down. Drink now with rare or medium-rare pepper steak. (Vic Harradine)
• The folks from Caymus, the iconic Charles F. Wagner is winemaker, only reveal two of the grapes that make up the following multi-blend 2014 Conundrum Red—zinfandel and petite sirah—with no mention of oak or winemaking regimen—other than that it is oaked.
88
Conundrum Red 2014
California $24.95 (294298) 15.2% alcohol
Dark cherry/berry aromas, charred toast and spice box leap from the almost-opaque liquid in the glass. Ripe, sweet fruit envelops the palate—black plum compote, cherry cordial and rich, blackberry jam to the fore, decorated with milk chocolate. This is full bodied, fully textured and certainly fully flavoured with a lengthy sweet-tinged, fruit-forward finish and aftertaste. Pour with grilled back ribs mopped with spicy barbecue sauce. (Vic Harradine)
90
Dandelion Vineyards ‘Lionheart of the Barossa’ Shiraz
Barossa, Australia $21.95 (167189) 14.5 % alcohol
Produced from old-vine shiraz, many over 100 years of age, this value-laden beauty spent 18 months in French oak barrel and was left unfiltered before bottling. Abundant dark fruit aromas—blackberry, cassis and black currant—sprinkled with anise and baking spices rise easily from the glass. Dry, full bodied with velvety tannin, succulent dark fruit flavours dominate the palate adorned with spice and earthy notes while a note of mint permeates the long finish. Pair with herb-encrusted rack of lamb. (Lisa Isabelle)
• The following J. Lohr Paso Robles Merlot is a recent, welcomed edition to the Vintages Essentials portfolio and always available in select stores. Fruit was sourced from a number of sites in cooler plots and aged 12 months in oak barrel after 100% malolactic conversion. There’s a generous splash of 9% Malbec in here, accentuating fruit and complexity.
91
J. Lohr Paso Robles Merlot
Paso Robles, California $22.95 (27516) 13.5% alcohol
Black plum compote, black cherry and baking spice introduce a deftly balanced stream of dark ripe fruit—black currant, juicy Bing cherry—interwoven with dark bittersweet chocolate, sharp spice and an excellent dollop of juicy tang. This is medium-plus bodied with satin-smooth mouthfeel and is fruit forward throughout—the finish is rich, complex, tangy and lengthy. Pour with grilled steak or burgers dressed with all the fixings. (Vic Harradine)
89
Joel Gott ‘815’ Cabernet Sauvignon
California $24.95 (444059) 13.9% alcohol
Savory herbs, gamy notes and charred toast aromas herald a medium-bodied nicely textured stream of rich dark fruit—cherry and black currant—intertwined with racy tang, sweet vanilla and dark bittersweet chocolate underpinned by still-evolving tannin. Aerate/decant for an hour or two hours before pouring with well-seasoned, grilled striploin. (Vic Harradine)
• The following Bodegas Lan Crianza is a Vintages Essentials wine always found in select LCBO stores. It’s also an inexpensive way to taste what will be a $30 or $40 wine when released from the winery some five or more years from now as a ‘Reserva’ or a ‘Gran Reserva’ wine.
92
Bodegas Lan Crianza
DOCa Rioja, Spain $16.95 (166538) 13.5% alcohol
Sexy aromas of exotic spice and incense interweave with soft, ripe, dark berry fruit and flecks of mocha. It bathes the palate with a rich and balanced wash of black raspberry and dark cherry flavours underpinned by ripe chalky tannin and framed by excellent acidity and purity of fruit. It’s medium-plus bodied with deft balance and a lengthy finish. Pour on its own, after a two-hour aeration/decant or alongside prawn and chorizo paella. (Vic Harradine)
90
Le Volte dell’Ornellaia
IGT Toscana $29.95 (964221) 14.0% alcohol
A highly anticipated, perennial favourite, this blend of 67% merlot, 20% cabernet sauvignon, 13% sangiovese, is ready to drink, fair value and shouldn’t disappoint. Dark berry fruit, piquant spice and mint aromas abound before dishing up a focused line of crunchy pie cherry and tart passionfruit scurrying across the palate adorned with notions of mixed spice and mocha, This is medium bodied with silky-smooth texture and soft ripe tannin. Drink now after a three-hour aeration/decant. (Vic Harradine)
89
Porcupine Ridge Syrah
WO Swartland, South Africa $16.95 (595280) 14.0% alcohol
Balanced and brimming with beautiful fruit, this has structure, a lingering aftertaste and oodles of charm—a $14.95 red (includes discount) tasting $20 and more. Red berry fruit, floral notes and mineral on the nose, this bursts on the palate with a balanced, persistent wash of briary berry and juicy black Bing cherry adorned by mixed spice. It’s medium-full weight with lovely mouth feel and a mouth-watering lively finish—each sip’s better than the previous. (Vic Harradine)
• The following red wine is $2.50 per bottle off the price shown below from now to November 7, 2021
89
Penfolds ‘Koonunga Hill’ Shiraz – Cabernet
South Australia $19.95 (285544) 13.5% alcohol
This is rich and perfumed on the nose releasing dark dusty aromas of cherry, mint and mixed dark berry fruit. On the palate there’s a delicious wave of flavour with mouth-coating succulent Bing cherry mingling with ripe mulberry and lip-smacking tart cranberry. It finishes balanced, lingering and delicious. Leaving little to be desired, it’s full value, and then some. (Vic Harradine)
• The following 3 red wines are $3.00 per bottle off the price shown below from now to November 7, 2021
91
Rodney Strong ‘Estate’ Pinot Noir
Russian River Valley, Sonoma County, California $29.95 (954834) 14.5% alcohol
This is a premium pinot from the fabulous cool-climate appellation of Russian River Valley. It’s part California with ripe fruit and oodles of it, and part Burgundy with good structure and lip-smacking acidity for excellent balance. There’s red cherry with wisps of red currant and mixed spice on the nose and palate joined by ripe black berry and notions of beetroot on the finish and lingering aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)
89
A to Z Wineworks Pinot Noir
Oregon $27.95 (229781) 13.5% alcohol
Opening with spice and floral aromas this washes over the palate with rich dark fruit flavour—briary berry and juicy, dark, Bing cherry—interlaced with earthy/toasty notes. This is medium bodied and nicely textured with a balanced, bountiful finish and aftertaste. There are strong earthy/mushroom notes on the aftertaste adding a positive dimension to the tasting experience. Pour with smoked and grilled duck breasts or grilled root veggies. (Vic Harradine)
• The following Trius red blend—cabernet franc/cabernet sauvignon/merlot—was matured 12 months in French and American oak.
87
Trius Red
VQA Niagara Peninsula $24.95 (303800) 13.6% alcohol
Aromas of ripe cherry/berry fruit, herbs and spice abound. A medium-full bodied, nicely textured flow of red cherry, bramble berry and savory herbs blanket the palate tightly robed in the still-evolving grip of perceptible tannin. Aerate/decant for three hours pouring with rare-grilled, well-seasoned striploin. (Vic Harradine)
• The following red wine is $4.00 per bottle off the price shown below from now to November 7, 2021
89
Château Pipeau
AOC St-Émilion Grand Cru $43.95 (302018) 13.5% alcohol
This is opaque in the glass with smoky, tarry, pipe tobacco aromas heralding rich, luscious flavours of cassis, black berry and sweet, ripe mulberry interweaving with racy red currant. It’s mid-full bodied with fleshy mouth feel and a balanced lengthy finish underpinned by perceptible, unresolved tannin. Aerate/decant three, full hours and serve with grilled, rare strip loin or wait and pour 2022-2026. (Vic Harradine)
• The following red wine is $5.00 per bottle off the price shown below from now to November 7, 2021
91
Beringer ‘Knights Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon
Knights Valley, California $44.95 (352583) 14.8% alcohol
This blend of predominantly cabernet sauvignon with a splash of cabernet franc, merlot and petit verdot, matured 16 months in French oak, 30% new. Dark cherry, plum compote, chipotle, baking spice and violet aromas showcase the complex nose. Silky soft on palate entry with flavours of ripe black cherry, clove and vanilla, it shows a firmer profile mid palate with tight tannin and flavours of cocoa powder, freshly cracked black peppercorn and a wisp of red plum acidity through the finish and aftertaste. This is full-bodied with cellaring potential; enjoy now to 2024 with juicy rare prime rib after a two-hour aeration/decant. (Louise Boutin)
Please stay safe and best wishes, always,
Louise, Lisa, Dave, Vic