July 17, 2021 Newsletter
Breaking News!
Early next week you will receive a Special Edition of winecurrent.com for
Wines of Argentina for 2021 summer releases in the LCBO
There will be about 20 wines in this bespoke listing you will not want to miss!
Newsletter Highlights:
- 95 points and over – there are three wines in this newsletter that rang the 95 points and over bell. One found under New in Vintages and the other two in Upstream in winecurrent.
- Over 40 – There are over 40 wine reviews in this newsletter.
- Exceptional-value wine – There are 22 exceptional-value wines found throughout the newsletter and easily spotted by the
icon checkmark in the July 24, 2021 Vintages Release and in the many categories following the release. Happy hunting! - Limited Time Offers –There are 15 wines that are reviewed in this newsletter and are also being discounted at the LCBO for up to a $5.00 rebate for each bottle purchased from July 19 to August 15, 2021. Most are new listings and waiting to be discovered at the end of the newsletter.
- Louise Loves – 2018 Closson Chase ‘The Brock’ Chardonnay earned 91 points at $25.00; 2018 Catena ‘D. V. Catena-1910 Tinto Historico’ earned 92 points @ $19.95 found under Argentina: Red Wine; Tawse ‘Sketches of Niagara’ Riesling earned 92 points at $18.95 (less discount) found under Limited Time Offers;
- Vic Picks – 2020 Three of Hearts ‘Trois Coeurs’ Pinot Grigio earned 89 points @ 19.95 found under Ontario: White Wine; 2017 Paringa Shiraz earned 90 points @ $17.95 found under Australia: Red Wine. All five of the wines under New in Ontario Wineries. There is a pinot grigio, an off-dry riesling, a chardonnay, a pinot noir and a rosé, with four of them earning an exceptional-value marker.
Vintages Release – July 24, 2021
Sparkling Wine
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Torresella Prosecco Non-Vintage
DOC Prosecco $17.95 (400440) 11.0% alcohol
This provides great value as a light-on-its-feet sipper pouring well as a welcoming wine or when paired with lighter-styled appetizers. Toast, honey and earthy notes on the nose, it glides smoothly across the palate with mouth-watering flavours of lemon yoghurt, green tea and honey-tinged pear. This extra-dry Prosecco finishes in a blaze of mouth-watering tang… clean, crisp and refreshing. Good value here. (Vic Harradine)
Ontario: White Wine
• The following 2018 Closson Chase ‘The Brock’ Chardonnay was sourced from KJ Watson Vineyards in Niagara’s VQA appellation of Niagara River. Fruit was destemmed and pressed at 14° C in stainless steel tank with no malolactic conversion while 50% was barrel fermented in neutral barrels for 14 months with 100% malolactic conversion.
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Closson Chase ‘The Brock’ Chardonnay 2018
VQA Niagara River $25.00 13.0% alcohol
Beautiful golden reflections in this finely crafted, cool-climate, hand-harvested chardonnay catch your eye. Ripe yellow fruit takes the lead on the aroma profile along with fresh fennel, crème brûlée and mineral notes. The palate is treated to delicious flavours of spicy peach, lemon curd and toasted almond getting along perfectly; salted caramel notes develop in the finish and delicious aftertaste. Pour alongside gourmet Mac ’n Cheese or garlic shrimps over a bed of creamy gnocchi. (Louise Boutin)
• The following 2020 Three of Hearts ‘Trois Coeurs’ Pinot Grigio was harvested at 4-5 tonnes per acre and whole-cluster pressed with no skin contact for subtle colour extraction. It was cool fermented in stainless steel at cold temperatures 15 to 17 °C to enhance fruit flavours. This wine was accredited by Sustainable Winemaking Ontario to be sustainably grown and fashioned.
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Three of Hearts ‘Trois Coeurs’ Pinot Grigio 2020
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 12.5% alcohol
Honeydew melon, tropical fruit and floral aromas precede a gusher of tang-infused palate flavours with lemon curd and racy pomelo along with notions of lemon meringue pie and bits of grapefruit pith to the fore. It’s clean, fresh and refreshing from cork pop to last drop. Pour with lighter-styled appetizers, fish or seafood. (Vic Harradine)
California: Red Wine
• The following 2018 Lapis Luna Cabernet Sauvignon was sourced from 100% cabernet sauvignon from the California AVA of Lodi. All fruit was gently destemmed and crushed then inoculated with select strains of yeast then pumped-over twice daily with a temperature peak of 32.2 °C. It was macerated for 12 to 28 days and matured in barrel for 10 months.
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Lapis Luna Cabernet Sauvignon 2018
Lodi, California $19.95 (17809) 14.4% alcohol
Gentle aromas of floral, herbs and notions of ripe dark fruit—plum, currant and cherry—provide segue for a delightful river of smooth and mellow, palate-bathing flavour with black currant, dark bittersweet chocolate and notions of pie cherry to the fore. The finish and aftertaste replay palate flavours along with a hint of chalky tannin. This is medium-full bodied and nicely balanced with persistent purity of fruit and plenty of pizzazz. Pick up an armful and pour with grilled rack of lamb or barbecued beefsteak. (Vic Harradine)
Argentina: White Wine
• The following 2019 Kaiken ‘Ultra’ Chardonnay was sourced from two sub appellations, Altamira in the Uco Valley with vineyards at 1200 meters a.s.l., with large diurnal temperature range. The soils are chalky with sand, lime and stones. The second sub appellation is Vistalba, Luján Cuyo at 1050 metres a.s.l., with large diurnal temperature range, low humidity and long daylight hours. Soils are alluvial derived from water erosion from the Andes Mountains that are loamy sand and deep with stones at one meter deep—making the soil highly permeable. The wine was sourced from 100% hand-picked chardonnay from clone 95 and clone 96. Grapes were hand sorted at the winery and pressed by pneumatic press. There was weekly bâtonnage—stirring of lees—in tanks and barrels then 65% of the wine was fermented in concrete and 35% in new oak barrel—at a controlled 16 °C with the latter 35% aged a further 12 months in oak barrel before being blended together and bottled for three months before being released.
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Kaiken ‘Ultra’ Chardonnay 2019
Uco Valley and Luján Cuyo, Argentina $19.95 (355552) 14.0% alcohol
You’ll find delicate aromas of salted caramel mingling with white peach, Meyer lemon, vanilla and a mineral touch in this beautiful white. The first sip will charm you with its creamy yet fresh mouthfeel carrying delicious flavours or orchard fruit, white grapefruit, exotic spice and a nice saline note trailing in the finish and aftertaste. The alcohol integration is impressive in this medium-full bodied beauty. Enjoy with seafood pasta or baked cod loin with lemon butter. (Louise Boutin)
Argentina: Red Wine
• The following 2018 Alamos ‘Selección’ Malbec was sourced from 100% hand-harvested malbec from high altitude vineyards of 915 to 1525 meters that was destemmed and crushed prior to a two- to three-day cold soak followed by fermentation lasting 10 – 15 days in upright and conical tanks at a controlled maximum temperature of 26-29 °C and maceration of 18-20 days to achieve complete flavour and colour extraction. Induced malolactic fermentation was completed followed by 9 to 12 months maturation in medium to medium+ toasted French oak before the final blend was assembled.
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Alamos ‘Selección’ Malbec 2018
Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina $16.95 (322800) 13.5% alcohol
Opaque in the glass, this purple/black wine has crimson edges. Aromas leap from the glass with violets, black berry fruit and hints of dark plum and blueberry. It envelops the palate with a flavour-infused wash of black currant, black cherry and mulberry robed in peppery spice and underpinned by soft tannin. It’s medium-full bodied with good texture and plenty of balancing tang and acidity on the palate and throughout the tasting experience. It finishes lengthy with palate replays persisting through the aftertaste. Pour with grilled rack of lamb or grilled medium-rare striploin. (Vic Harradine)
• The following 2018 Catena ‘D. V. Catena-1910 Tinto Historico’ was sourced from four High Mountain Estate Vineyards with a blend of the following grapes—75% malbec/19% bonarda/6% petit verdot. The vineyards are: 1) Lunlunta at 920 meters a.s.l. with soils of alluvial origin with loamy clay in the topsoil and rounded rocks on the bottom. 2) Gualtallary at 1450 meters a.s.l. with soils of alluvial origin with gravel and limestone in the topsoil and rounded rocks on the bottom. 3) Eugenio Bustas at 1090 meters a.s.l. and loam-sand soils with thick calcareous layers and rounded rocks on the bottom. 4) El Mirador at 750 meters a.s.l. with aeolian and alluvial silt loam soil. This wine went through extensive cold maceration for five days at 8.8 °C then fermented for 16 days with a post fermentation maceration for 22 days. Barrel selection depended upon vineyard and vintage. First-, second- and third-use barrels were employed.
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Catena ‘D. V. Catena-1910 Tinto Historico’ 2018
Mendoza, Argentina $19.95 (555466) 13.5% alcohol
Watch for a complex and generous nose of purple plum and blackberry combined with notes of cinnamon, sage and sweet tobacco. It glides on the palate with juicy flavours of black mixed berry, ripe dark cherry, plum and a spike of orange zest meeting fine powdery tannins, taking you to a dry finish with lingering notes of pepper and dry herb. There is a lot of hard work going into this medium-full bodied beauty under $20. From pork to lamb on the grill or duck confit, this will be a great partner. (Louise Boutin)
• The following 2018 Kaiken ‘Terroir Series’ Malbec-Bonarda-Petit Verdot is a blend of 80% malbec/15% bonarda/5% petit verdot sourced, primarily—renowned malbec and petit verdot—from Los Chacayes, Uco Valley 100 km to the south of Mendoza at 1250 meters a.s.l. It is a temperate climate with cold winters, and warm summers with cool evenings making for a wide diurnal temperature range. Soils are rocky with mixed with coarse sand and lime. The bonarda was sourced from Agrelo, Luján Cuyo which is 40 km to the south of Mendoza at 950 meters a.s.l. with a semi-arid and windy climate with cold winters, and warm summers with wide diurnal temperature shifts between days and nights. Grapes were hand-picked during March and April and were hand-selected at the winery with pre-fermentation maceration for seven days at a controlled 10 °C while fermentation lasted seven days at a controlled 26 °C in concrete tanks using selected and indigenous yeast strains while malo-lactic fermentation occurred naturally in concrete tanks, as well. Wine was then matured in French oak barrels—1/3rd new, 1/3rd second use, 1/3rd third use—for 12 months then 6 months in bottle before being released. Most wines from 2018 in these appellation and sub-appellations showed a return to normal yields, fruitier, riper wines with higher alcohol, better balance and rounded tannin.
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Kaiken ‘Terroir Series’ Malbec-Bonarda-Petit Verdot 2018
Los Chacayes, Mendoza, Argentina $18.95 (450163) 14.5% alcohol
Very oaky on the nose at first, this red blend offers beautiful dark cherry, blackberry, allspice and cedar aromas after a vigorous swirl. Expect high acidity blanketing the tongue before flavours of mixed berry, purple plum and green peppercorn pull in along with chalky tannins, taking you on a dry, fruity-peppery astringent finish. Aerate/decant two hours and pour alongside rare flank steak on the grill or lamb burgers. (Louise Boutin)
Australia: Red Wine
• The following 2017 Paringa Shiraz was matured for 12 months in 50% new and 50% pre-loved, 300 L, French oak barrels. It punches well over the price, pick up six or so.
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Paringa Shiraz 2017
South Australia $15.95 (632083) 14.9% alcohol
Aromas of dark cherry/berry fruit, black licorice and hints of tar precede a full-bodied, hi-octane tsunami wave of palate flavour with black plum compote and black raspberry jam decorated with dark bittersweet chocolate, black licorice and baking spice. Flavours persist into the lengthy flavour-packed finish and aftertaste. This has good balance, complexity and a price-quality ratio skewing well in your favour. Pour with all manner of barbecued meats including pulled pork and/or barbecued ribs, both slathered with spicy barbecue sauce. (Vic Harradine)
France: Red Wine
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Ferraton Père & Fils Plan de Dieu 2019
AOP Côtes-Du-Rhône Villages, Plan de Dieu, France $19.95 (74229) 15% alcohol
This red blend—cariñena/garnacha/mourvèdre/syrah—opens with aromas of bramble berry and herbs. It’s quite smooth with great mouthfeel on the palate as it delivers well-balanced and delicious mouthfuls of flavour—bramble berry and vanilla balanced with racy tang of pie cherry—that replay and persist through the finish and aftertaste. Lovely to sip on, it’s also versatile at the table as it matches nicely with roast chicken, burgers and steak. (Vic Harradine)
Spain: Red Wine
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Heredad de Urueña ‘Santo – Terroir Tempranillo’ 2014
Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y León, Spain $16.95 (629832) 13.0% alcohol
Rich, ripe aromas of dried currants and plum compote are on the nose. A full-bodied, creamy-smooth wash of palate-bathing sweet-tinged fruit with black plum and ripe fig are predominant on entry, soon joined by red currant and red cherry adding juicy tang and providing good balance on the back palate and finish. This 100% tempranillo pours and pairs well with grilled/smoked back ribs slathered with spicy barbecue sauce. The price-quality balance tips well in your favour. (Vic Harradine)
New in Ontario Wineries:
• Order the following five wines by the bottle(s) or case(s) for daily delivery to home, office or restaurant online from this link to Henry of Pelham – There is free delivery on 12 or more bottles in Ontario. Select ‘12 Bottles+’ at check out and allow up to 10 days for delivery or, order online then pick up bottle(s) or case(s) from the winery at 1469 Pelham Rd, St. Catharines ON. Here’s a map.
• The following 2020 Henry of Pelham ‘Classic’ Pinot Grigio was sourced from vines grown primarily in lacustrine silty clay and grown under and accredited by Sustainably Winemaking Ontario. Yields were 4-5 tonnes per acre and were gently destemmed then whole berry pressed in the absence of oxygen to preserve natural freshness of this wine. It was fermented at cold temperatures from 15 – 17 °C to preserve delicacy and freshness.
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Henry of Pelham ‘Classic’ Pinot Grigio 2020
VQA Niagara Peninsula $14.95 (250217) 12.5% alcohol
A light shade of bronze in the glass, aromas of tropical fruit, floral notes and citrus waft easily from this medium-bodied, silky-smooth textured gem. It dazzles the palate with a surge of pure ambrosia with lip-smacking tang riding a wave of lemon curd and crunchy Granny Smith apple juxtaposed with lemon chiffon pie and baked apple. The balance between tang and ripe fruit flavour is crisp and refreshing. There’s persistent purity of flavour from first to last drop with the finish and aftertaste crisp and clean. Pour with white, three-cheese pizza—Gouda, chèvre and Brie, grilled or pan-seared seafood, or a summer salad. (Vic Harradine)
• The following 2020 Henry of Pelham ‘Estate’ Riesling was accredited by Sustainable Winemaking Ontario to be sustainably grown and fashioned. The grapes were sourced primarily from estate vines shovel-planted in 1984 of the iconic Mosel clone Weiss 21B.
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Henry of Pelham ‘Estate’ Riesling 2020
VQA Short Hills Bench $19.95 (557165) 11.5% alcohol
Feint aromas of apricot, pear and apple appear after an onslaught of lemon zest, grapefruit and wisps of petrol. It envelops the palate with a medium-bodied, creamy-smooth off-dry river of delectable sweet and tang with sweet-tinged lemon drop candy and oodles of delectable acidity and pizzazz. Serve chilled by removing from the refrigerator 15 minutes before pouring. The price-quality ratio skews well in your favour. Pour with spicy Asian dishes like pad Thai or tandoori chicken or with a bone-in baked ham decorated with cloves and basted in maple syrup. (Vic Harradine)
• The following 2020 Henry of Pelham Chardonnay was sourced from numbered chardonnay clones 95, 96, 76, 78 with vines averaging twenty years of age. Fruit was cold fermented in stainless steel tank at 15 – 17 °C preserving delicacy and freshness and aged sur lie on the spent yeast cells sediment. It was also was accredited by Sustainable Winemaking Ontario to be sustainably grown and fashioned. Henry of Pelham excel with chardonnay regardless of the price point, they just make excellent, value-packed chardonnay, period.
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Henry of Pelham Chardonnay 2020
VQA Niagara Peninsula $14.95 (291211) 13.2% alcohol
Alluring aromas of yeast being proofed, apple sauce and citrus abound. It captures the palate with a medium-bodied, smooth-as-silk, spice-infused wash of delightful flavours with a line of tang and pizzazz from lemon zest, green apple and notions of baking spice. It’s nicely balanced on the palate with excellent crisp and refreshing bits on the lingering finish and aftertaste. Pour now with roast chicken or turkey pot pie. (Vic Harradine)
• The following 2020 Henry of Pelham Pinot Noir was sourced from various numbered pinot noir clones including 115, 667, 777 and 375 while soils were a combination of structured lacustrine silty clay and the less-structured silty clay over clay loam. Yields were approximately 3.5 – 4.0 tonnes per acre. Fruit was fermented in stainless steel tank then further matured for six months in European oak.
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Henry of Pelham ‘Classic’ Pinot Noir 2020
VQA Niagara Peninsula $17.95 (13904) 13.3% alcohol
Aromas of red and black cherry/berry interweave with savory herbs and hints of vanilla. It’s quite smooth and mellow on the palate considering how young it is. It sports palate flavours of ripe black bramble berry and black cherry adorned with mixed spice, persistent purity of fruit, good depth and is balanced on a pin with excellent acidity, ripe fruit flavours and integrated soft, ripe tannin. Pour now with roast fowl, pan-seared salmon or chicken pot pie. (Vic Harradine)
• The following 2020 Three of Hearts ‘Trois Coeurs’ Rosé was fashioned from hand-picked and whole-cluster pressed 100% pinot noir. There was no skin contact for subtle colour extraction and was cool fermented in stainless steel tanks. The entire process in viticulture and viniculture was accredited as sustainable by Sustainable Winemaking Ontario.
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Three of Hearts ‘Trois Coeurs’ Rosé 2020
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (552562) 12.0% alcohol
A light shade of pink in the glass, aromas waft easily with a gentle swirl—strawberry, watermelon and rhubarb. It rolls over the palate in waves with flavour of passionfruit, cranberry and red raspberry to the fore. It’s medium-bodied with satin-smooth mouthfeel. There’s good depth of flavour, balanced and bountiful, leaving the lengthy finish and aftertaste to deliver a crisp, clean and refreshing clean up with plenty of tang and excellent acidity. Pour with smoked salmon on a baguette slathered with cream cheese and decorated with thinly sliced sweet onion and capers topped with fresh dill weed. (Vic Harradine)
New in the LCBO General List: August, 2021
• The following 2019 Cusumano Society Agricola Merlot is an estate bottled wine accredited by two approved sustainable programs in Italy and sourced from 100% hand-harvested merlot from 17-year-old vines from Tenuta Presti e Pegni vineyards on hills at 300 meters a.s.l. exposed to the sun from dawn to dusk while breezes from the sea, some 10 km away, are dispersing the heat. Upon reaching the winery, grapes were destemmed macerated on skins for two days at 26 – 28 °C then pumped over with the must removed. It then underwent malo-lactic fermentation and stayed in contact with fine lees for at least five months followed by aging in bottle.
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Cusumano Society Agricola Merlot 2019
IGT Terre Siciliane, Italy $12.95 (19779) 13.0% alcohol
Aromas of earthy notes, savoury herbs and black currant dominate the nose. It’s a tsunami wave of flavours on the palate with dark Bing cherry, black currant and ripe mulberry; and a firm tannin underpinning leading the way. This is medium-plus bodied with good texture and a price-quality balance that tips wildly in your favour. Aerate/decant for two hours before serving. Pour with rich stews, meat and vegetable stir fries or your favourite grilled meats. (Vic Harradine)
New in Vintages (should be available now in LCBO retail stores)
• The following 2018 Fonseca ‘Guimaraens’ Vintage Port is the first ‘Guimaraens’ bottling of vintage port since 2015 and it’s raison d’être is to provide a port that is premium in quality and, both age-worthy and smooth and mellow enough to be consumed now. It was sourced from three Fonseca estate properties—1) Quinta do Panascal is one of the most highly reputed port vineyards as said in an old saying, ‘From Roncão and Panascal come the finest wines of Portugal.’ A source of grapes for many decades, it was finally purchased by Fonseca in 1978. It was also one of the first vineyards in the Douro Valley to practise organic viticulture. 2) Quinta do Cruzeiro has been supplying the firm with grapes since the 1870s and has contributed to the Fonseca Vintage Port blend since 1912. 3) Quinta Santo António shares Cruzerio’s long association with Fonseca and has contributed regularly to the Fonseca Vintage Port blend since early in the 20th century.
• Winecurrent was sent a smaller sample bottle than the 750 mL that will be released, though I don’t believe it has been bottled long enough to make a huge difference between the two. (Vic Harradine)
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Fonseca ‘Guimaraens’ Vintage Port 2018
Product of Portugal $87.50 (21297) 20.0% alcohol
Alluring aromas of black currant, mocha, wood spice and peppery spice open the door to a swashbuckling river of sweet-tinged palate flavours—blackberry, ripe, juicy Rainier cherry and plum compote to the fore decorated with piquant spice and mixed herbs. It’s structured with supple tannin and excellent tang and acidity. You could serve now after a three-hour aeration/decant alongside Stilton cheese, dark, Christmas fruit cake or dark bittersweet chocolate. (Vic Harradine)
• The following 2016 Casa-Dea Estates ‘Reserve’ Pinot Noir was sourced from 100% PEC pinot noir fruit matured in oak.
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Casa-Dea Estates ‘Reserve’ Pinot Noir 2016
VQA Prince Edward County $26.95 (296210) 12.2% alcohol
Light-crimson hued in the glass, aromas of red berry fruit, violets, cedar and piquant peppery spice abound on the nose. It’s tang-laden, medium-bodied with a firm underpinning of still-evolving tannin. Racy red currant and crunchy pie cherry dominate the palate while the dry finish provides palate-fruit replays and persists through the aftertaste with perceptible tannin. Aerate/decant for three hours before service. Coq au vin or roast bird are inspired food matches. (Vic Harradine)
Upstream in winecurrent.com
Vintages Release: August 5, 2021
• The following Alvear ‘Solera – 1927’ Pedro Ximénez is a fascinating wine, making it one of the world’s true wine treasures. Have ten or fifteen minutes to spare? You’ll be pleased you clicked here. It may open up a whole new world of wine for you. If nothing else, you’ll learn what a ‘solera’ is. Hint… it comes from the Spanish word ‘suelo’ meaning ‘the floor’, ‘the bottom’ and ‘the base’. The oldest wine in the bottle of wine you purchase will be a small amount from 1927 and from many, many other years between then and now—it’s a ‘multi-vintage’, wood-aged wine.
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Alvear ‘Solera – 1927’ Pedro Ximénez
DOP Montilla-Moriles, Spain $28.95 500 mL (463034) 16.0% alcohol
This is akin to sweet nectar of the gods. It’s a rich caramel colour in the glass and offers up alluring aromas of raisins, figs and mixed spice. It blankest the palate with gorgeous sweet flavours of caramel toffee, raisin pie and ripe figs along with enough acidity to keep it far from cloying. . It could be served ‘as the dessert’ or paired with dark Christmas fruit cake or crème caramel. This would be a fabulous gift to novices or connoisseurs of wine. (Vic Harradine)
Vintages Release: August 7, 2021
• The following 2019 Zuccardi ‘Q’ Malbec was sourced from 100% malbec, from select vineyard lots in Praje Altimira, San Carlos, Valle de Uco at 1100 meters a.s.l. with alluvial soils of consistency being sandy loam top soil with medium and large stones in sub soils with abundant calcareous matter along with select plots in Los Chacayes at 1000 meters a.s.l.. The soils here are alluvial in origin consistent with sandy loam topsoil and sub-soil of small stones moderately eroded with occasional coverage of calcium carbonate or gypsum. Fruit was bunch selected at harvest with tanks filled by gravity then fermented in concrete vats with autochthonous yeasts then aged in concrete vats and used 500L un-toasted French oak barrels. The 2019 harvest was rated as exceptional. A Zuccardi vineyard was voted, “(#1) Best Vineyard in the World” in 2019. The ‘Q’ is how the Zuccardi family and workers mark their best plots vineyards and coincides with the English word Quality and all grapes for this wine were sourced from ‘Q’ plots and vineyards. An in-depth, very interesting video with one of the Zuccardi family.
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Zuccardi ‘Q’ Malbec 2019
Praje Altimira, San Carlos, Valle de Uco and Los Chacayes, Tunuyán, Valle de Uco,
Mendoza, Argentina $19.95 (723478) 14.5% alcohol
Opaque purple/black in the glass, there are appealing aromas of black currant, dark plum and baking spice. It’s medium bodied and nicely textured revealing palate flavours of red and black berry fruit—dark juicy cherry and pie cherry interwoven with black and red currant, wisps of piquant spice and underpinned by still-evolving tannin that’s revealed on the finish and aftertaste. Pour with all manner of meat you grill on your barbecue. (Vic Harradine)
Vintages Release: August 21, 2021
• The following Drappier Non-Vintage Nature-Zero Dosage - Pinot Noir was sourced from 100% estate-grown pinot noir from organic and sustainable viticulture vines in the limestone-rich soils of the Kimmeridgian limestone soil in Champagne. Alcoholic fermentation for approximately two weeks at low temperature then total and natural malo-lactic fermentation took place. After bottling, the cuvée is aged for at least 30 months ‘sur lattes’ - on laths. The date of disgorgement is etched on each bottle, this was disgorged in May, 2021. It was bottled unfiltered.
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Drappier Brut Nature-Zero Dosage Pinot Noir Non-Vintage
AOC Champagne, France $65.95 (179275) 12.0% alcohol
It’s light-yellow with copper highlights and pours with a fine-bead mousse and alluring aromas of yeasty notes, lemon zest and white grapefruit. It blankets the palate with a tang-infused wash of Meyer lemon and Mirabelle plum that persist through finish and aftertaste with added notes of spice and minerality. This is quite consistent throughout with persistent purity of tang, acidity and fresh, fruit flavour being well balanced. In the grand scheme of Champagne, this offers up a price-quality balance tipped well in your favour. Pour with sashimi, pan-seared scallops or lemon sole. (Vic Harradine)
Vintages Release: August 21, 2021
• The following 2018 Bonny Doon Vineyard ‘Le Cigare Volant’ is a blend of 52% grenache/35% cinsault/13% syrah sourced from multiple sites—48% Alta Loma/35% Loma del Rio/6% Mesa Verde/6% Zayante/4% Rancho Solo/1% Lief in the Central Coast, American Viticultural Area, or AVA. AVA is the U.S. equivalent to our VQA in Canada.
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Bonny Doon Vineyard ‘Le Cigare Volant’ 2018
Central Coast, California $24.95 (857157) 13.5% alcohol
A lightly hued crimson-red in the glass, aromas of savoury herbs, baking spice and red cherry/berry notes abound. It’s medium-bodied with good structure and plenty of tang and acidity. The palate’s flooded with flavours of dark cherry, black currant and hints of savoury herbs. The lengthy finish and aftertaste replay palate flavours with a good lick of still-evolving tannin that’s easily ameliorated with a two-hour aeration/decant. (Vic Harradine)
Vintages Release: September 4, 2021
• The following 2018 Jim Barry ‘Single Vineyard – The Farm’ Cabernet Malbec is a blend of 91% cabernet sauvignon planted in 1997 and 9% malbec planted in 1998 both sourced from plots on the Eastern Ranges from their Lodge Hill estate vineyard. This wine is to pay homage to the foresight of the iconic, late, great Jim Barry. The Jim Barry team of today is still basking in the limelight of being named ‘2020 Winery of The Year’ by James Halliday’s Wine Companion. They are also one of the founding members of the über-exclusive Australia’s First Families of Wine; click on their name to learn why they gained an invitation and see the other nine members and use Jim Barry Wine plus those nine other names as a compass for family-owned and managed wineries making fine wines from Australia.
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Jim Barry ‘Single Vineyard – The Farm’ Cabernet Malbec 2018
Clare Valley, Australia $29.95 (20881) 13.9% alcohol
Aromas of violets, earthy notes and ripe mulberry precede a structured mouthful of deep black cherry/berry flavours intertwined with mocha and wisps of earthy notes and sprigs of savoury herbs. It’s medium-full bodied with lots of mouthfeel and plenty of tang and acidity making for a dry finish and aftertaste. This is good to go now with at least another15 years of careful cellaring. Pour with grilled rack of lamb or a thick, premium cut of beef steak grilled medium-rare. (Vic Harradine)
Vintages Release: TBD, 2021
• The following 2020 Società Agricola Valpenera ‘Valpenera’ Pinot Grigio is 100% pinot grigio fruit sourced in the first week of September from vineyards of Fiumicelo Ville Vicentina an ancient town in north-east Italy. After being harvested, grapes were pressed gently then fermented at a controlled temperature of 18 °C.
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Società Agricola Valpenera ‘Valpenera’ Pinot Grigio 2020
DOC Friuli, Italy $16.95 12.5% alcohol
Floral notes, a mélange of tropical fruit and hints of citrus aromas waft easily from the nose of this light-on-its-feet, clean, crisp and refreshing 100% pinot grigio. It bathes the palate with lemon curd and white grapefruit decorated with saline minerality and notions of Key lime. It finishes with mouth-watering and lip-smacking tang and acidity, making it the perfect summer sipper and accompaniment to seafood or chicken at any time of year. (Vic Harradine)
Vintages Release: TBD, 2021
• The following 2019 3 Rings Barossa Valley Shiraz was sourced from 100% shiraz from one of Australia’s warmer wine areas, the Barossa Valley, hence the hi-octane 14.9% alcohol. However, no cause for alarm as it is also high in titratable acidity, as well as now being very low in sugar – 0.6 grams per litre. The end result is a shiraz with good balance on the palate and brimming with flavour.
90
3 Rings Barossa Valley Shiraz 2019
Barossa Valley, Australia $17.95 (15495) 14.9% alcohol
Camphor, black licorice, black currant and dark plum aromas soar from the nose with even a slight swirl. It envelops the palate with a swashbuckling surge of ripe mulberry, juicy black Bing cherry and dark bittersweet chocolate. This is deftly balanced with persistent purity of fruit, good structure and concentrated fruit flavours that are ripe and delicious without being cloying. There’s perceptible and very acceptable tang-laden and mouth-watering acidity pizzazz on the finish and aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)
LCBO ‘Limited Time Offers’ – July 19 to August 15, 2021
Regardless of the vintage you purchase from the LCBO, you’ll receive the discount shown below for each bottle of wine reviewed below that’s purchased (either ‘in person’ or online) July 21 to August 15, 2021.
White Wines
• The following five wines will have a discount of $2.00 taken off the price shown below for each bottle purchased from July 19 to August 15, 2021
• The following Castello Banfi “Principessa Gavia’ Gavi was sourced from 100% indigenous, estate-grown, cortese grapes, gently pressed and fermented under 18°C for twenty days in stainless steel enhancing freshness and delicate aromas in the wine. The winery began in 1860 then purchased by Banfi in the late 1970s.
92
Castello Banfi “Principessa Gavia’ Gavi
DOCG Piedmont $19.95 (2506960) 12.5% alcohol
This is a well-paced and well-priced Vintages Essentials wine, always available in select LCBO stores. Straw, citrus and wisps of honeyed aromas precede an explosion of flavour—lemon curd, sprigs of herbs and hints of pineapple. It coats the palate infusing the clean, refreshing finish and aftertaste. This is light-medium weight with good mouthfeel and a boatload of pizzazz and tangy acidity. Pour as an aperitif or with pan-seared white fish or poached scallops. (Vic Harradine)
89
Boschendal ‘1685’ Chardonnay
WO Western Cape, South Africa $15.95 (367698) 14.0% alcohol
Boschendal has been making wine in the Franschhoek Valley for over 300 years. Tropical fruit, ripe apple, sweet vanilla and pear aromas precede a balanced, medium-bodied gusher of apple pie, pineapple and lemon curd with wisps of minerality and toasty oak. There’s good mouthfeel and plenty of tang on the crisp, clean, refreshing finish. Good to go now with pan-seared freshwater fish—exceptional value here. (Vic Harradine)
90
Flat Rock Cellars Chardonnay
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $19.95 (286278) 13.0% alcohol
Medium yellow-gold hued, this leaps from the glass with lifted aromas of baking spice, toasty notes, pineapple and caramel. It envelops the palate with a medium-plus bodied, well-textured river of ripe apple and tingling citrus acidity with oodles of nerve, verve and pizzazz expressed as white grapefruit on the back palate and aftertaste. This will be divine paired with freshly shucked Malpec oysters, prawn ceviche or pan-seared white fish under a generous squeeze of fresh lemon. (Vic Harradine)
88
La Crema Chardonnay
Sonoma Coast $29.95 (962886) 13.5% alcohol
This is an elegant chardonnay with subtle oak aromas on the nose combined with notes of apple and minerality. It’s medium-full bodied with zesty acidity delivering green apple and citrus flavours on the palate. The finish is tangy and underlined with clean minerality. This will evolve nicely in the cellar for a few years, and can be enjoyed with shrimp parmesan pasta. (Dave Isaacs)
• The following 2017 Tawse ‘Sketches of Niagara’ Riesling is a Vintages Essentials wine always found in select LCBO stores.
92
Tawse ‘Sketches of Niagara’ Riesling
VQA Niagara Peninsula $18.95 (89029) 10.0% alcohol
An assortment of hand-harvested grapes from select vineyards in the Niagara Peninsula fashioned this delectable fruit-forward, off-dry, low-alcohol gem. Fragrant petrol notes introduce ripe nectarine, grapefruit, Asian pear aromas and a whiff of nutmeg. The palate’s mellow with rich, stone fruit flavours flirting with perfectly balanced acidity and minerality. This is perfect to sip on its own or paired with pomelo and spicy crab salad. (Louise Boutin)
• The following wine will have a discount of $3.00 taken off the price shown below for each bottle purchased from July 19 to August 15, 2021
89
Oyster Bay Sauvignon Blanc
Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand $19.95 (316570) 13.0% alcohol
Lemon-lime citrus, grassy and pit fruit on the nose, this washes across the palate at full sail with tangy, juicy flavours of lemon drop candy, herbaceous notes and lip-smacking key lime pie flavours. Medium bodied with a silky mouth feel and consistently one of the most popular white wines in the Vintages Essentials line up. (Vic Harradine)
Red Wine
• The following six wines will have a discount of $2.00 taken off the price shown below for each bottle purchased from July 19 to August 15, 2021
89
Cathedral Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon
WO Paarl, South Africa $17.95 (328567) 13.0% alcohol
Smoky, earthy and dried cherry aromatics waft from the glass of this medium-bodied red. There are a good deal of sweet, black, ripe cherry and plum flavours with hints of chocolate and tar in the involved flavour profile. All this is wrapped around perceptible tannins and oaky notes that may need some time to quiet down. Drink now with rare or medium-rare pepper steak. (Vic Harradine)
90
Francis Coppola ‘Diamond Collection Ivory Label’ Cabernet Sauvignon
California $24.95 (521021) 13.5% alcohol
Wood smoke and toasty oak mingle with ripe dark fruit—mulberry, bramble berry and juicy cherry on the nose of this meaty, delectable California Cab. It’s full bodied and fully flavoured flaunting rich, concentrated and luscious flavours of spice-laden black Bing cherry and briary berry garnished with dark chocolate and cassis. The finish lingers with gorgeous replays, lip-smacking tang and a supple tannin base. (Vic Harradine)
• The following 2018 Wakefield ‘Estate Label’ Shiraz is a Vintages Essentials wine, always available in many LCBO stores.
• Clare Valley is a relatively cool-climate region in South Australia, a couple hours from the Barossa Valley. It’s also the spiritual and physical home of the Taylor family who own and manage this fabulous winery. The price-quality balance tips wildly in your favour; it punches well above its price.
93
Wakefield ‘Estate Label’ Shiraz
Clare Valley, South Australia $19.95 (943787) 14.5% alcohol
Aromas of black cherry, berry and plum intertwine with baking spice and cocoa on the nose of this value-packed shiraz. It spreads over the palate creamy smooth and medium-plus bodied while unleashing a gusher of fruit-forward flavour of ripe mulberry, black plum and ripe Bing cherry adorned with balancing tang and a boatload of pizzazz. It showcases persistent purity of fruit, is balanced on a pin and sports a dry, delectable finish with palate replays plus a hint of cassis and dark, bittersweet chocolate. Pour with friends and slow-cooked lamb shoulder or grilled rack of lamb. Pick up a few and drink over the next seven or eight years. (Vic Harradine)
90
Majella ‘The Magician’ Cabernet/Shiraz
Coonawarra, South Australia $19.95 (142018) 14.5% alcohol
Exotic spice, tobacco leaf, campfire smoke and black plum aromas on the nose, this streaks across the palate with red and black currant, sour cherry and oodles of tang. It’s medium-plus weight with generous mouth feel and a lengthy, mouth-watering aftertaste of red berry fruit and spice. Serve with red pizza or pasta in tomato sauce. (Vic Harradine)
90
Beronia ‘Reserva’
DOCa Rioja $18.95 (50203) 14.0% alcohol
This tempranillo/graciano/mazuelo blend spent 18 months in French and American oak barrels then 20 months in bottle before release. Black plum, red cherry, leather and spice on the nose, it dishes up a lively wash of baking spice, red and black cherry and briary berry on the palate. It’s medium weight with satin-smooth texture and a long, racy, lip-smacking finish. (Vic Harradine)
89 
Malivoire Gamay
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (591313) 12.0% alcohol
Although lightly-hued to the eye, aromas leap from the glass of this well-priced gamay with the slightest swirl—red cherry/berry notes, peppery/savoury bits and piquant spice abound. It’s light on its feet with fruit flavours of pie cherry and crunchy red berry fruit—currant and cranberry—framed by tangy acidity and joined by a dry, crisp and clean finish and aftertaste. Pour with a three-cheese white pizza or arugula salad dressed with verjus and topped with crumbled chèvre. (Vic Harradine)
• The following wine will have a discount of $2.50 taken off the price shown below for each bottle purchased from July 19 to August 15, 2021
88
Penfolds ‘Koonunga Hill’ Shiraz – Cabernet
South Australia $19.95 (285544) 13.5% alcohol
This is rich and perfumed on the nose releasing dark dusty aromas of cherry, mint and mixed dark berry fruit. On the palate there’s a delicious wave of flavour with mouth-coating succulent Bing cherry mingling with ripe mulberry and lip-smacking tart cranberry. It finishes balanced, lingering and delicious. Leaving little to be desired, it’s full value, and then some. (Vic Harradine)
• The following two wines will have a discount of $3.00 taken off the price shown below for each bottle purchased from July 19 to August 15, 2021
88
Rodney Strong ‘Sonoma County’ Cabernet Sauvignon
Sonoma County $27.95 (226944) 13.5% alcohol
Savoury herbs and red berry fruit aromas precede medium-plus bodied, well-textured mouthfuls of black and red cherry/berry flavours adorned with grilled savoury herbs and charred toast. It’s fruit-filled and pours well with grilled rack of lamb or grilled striploin after a one- or two-hour aeration/decant. As California cab goes, this is certainly attractively priced. (Vic Harradine)
90
Zenato ‘Ripassa – Superiore’
DOC Superiore Ripasso, Italy $27.95 (479766) 14.0% alcohol
Leftover grape skins and seeds (pomace) from Amarone and Recioto wine are added to the crushed and fermenting grapes of this wine, with the potential of adding colour, tannin, alcohol, texture, flavour and complexity. This is medium-full bodied, overflowing with rich flavour—sweet dried currant, spiced pie cherry, fig and mocha—sporting a well-balanced long succulent aftertaste. This has the oomph and structure to pair well with grilled steak or the heartiest of stews, like osso buco. It’s a step up in price and quality; you might give it a try. (Vic Harradine)
Stay safe and very best wishes, Louise, Lisa, Dave, Vic