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Vintages release 3 March 2007

This release starts with some terrific wines from Italy. Look for selections from Veneto (especially Amarone and Valpolicella), as well as other DOCs and IGTs (regional wines). There are also wines from Niagara Peninsula's Le Clos Jordanne winery-a joint venture between Canada's Vincor and Burgundy's Boisset-which produces outstanding Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. But don't overlook the rest of the release, which features some excellent values.

Rod looked after this release. Vic is still roaming across Australia, visiting wineries, tasting wines, and sending annoying weather reports.

The wines of Veneto

***** drink now
Sa Solin Ripasso della Valpolicella 2003
DOC Ripasso della Valpolicella $15.95 (650713)
(Previously reviewed in Winecurrent) This is a ripper. Sour cherry and spicy black plum aromatics drift off the glass from this medium weight crowd pleaser. It is well structured with balancing acidity and supple tannin while delivering copious amounts of fresh, juicy ripe red fruit on the palate and finish. There is a delightful seam of tar and black licorice that adds interest to the fruit flavours. Worthy of a case purchase to be consumed over the next 2 years. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Farina Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2003
DOC Amarone della Valpolicella Classico $38.95 (995910)
Made from all six varieties permitted in Amarone, this bruiser from the hot 2003 vintage delivers big weight, big flavour and big complexity. Look for full-on fruit here, with dark fruit and berries with notes of dried fruit. It has substantial tannins and will keep for years. Drink it with a hunk of grilled red meat. (RP)
Other DOCs
**** drink or cellar
Maculan Cabernet 2004
DOC Breganze $14.95 (28233)
This is a well-paced and well-priced Cabernet blend (80% Sauvignon and 20% Franc) that offers just what you'd expect: good, solid fruit from start to finish, with good complexity and a fairly polished texture. The tannins are good for drinking now or in two to three years. Pair it with grilled chicken smothered with sautéed Portobello mushrooms. (RP)
IGTs
****1/2 drink or cellar
La Montecchia Godimondo Cabernet Franc 2005
IGT Veneto $17.95 (23192)
This is not what you'd expect from a Cabernet Franc if you think of cool climate varieties from the Loire or Niagara. Instead it packs a fruit wallop, with full-on flavours of dark fruit and berries, accented by spices and herbs. It's quite delicious and if you'd like to try a Cab Franc with heft, try this. And try it with well-seasoned (lots of rosemary) grilled lamb chops. (RP)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Santa Margherita Laudato Malbech 2004
IGT Veneto Orientale $21.95 (976639)
No, it's not a typo. That's Malbec with an h, as in the Italian spelling. Purists might have qualms about the invasion of Italian vineyards by foreign varieties, but now that the EU has brought the borders down, there's no stopping the migration of people or vines, it seems. This version of Malbec is somewhat rustic in the best sense (I like rustic wines!) and it's just delicious. Good fruit and structure make it a friend to food, especially something like grilled lamb or game. (RP)
Le Clos Jordanne
****1/2 drink or cellar
Le Clos Jordanne "Le Clos Jordanne Vineyard" Chardonnay 2004
VQA Niagara Peninsula $35.00 (33910)
This is one beautiful Chardonnay, stylish and elegant with very attractive flavours of peach, pear and citrus fruit, with a slight nutty aftertaste. It's almost full bodied, richly textured and is balanced from attack to finish. Drink it with sautéed scallops or freshly boiled and cooled lobster. (RP)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Le Clos Jordanne "Le Clos Jordanne Vineyard" Pinot Noir 2004
VQA Niagara Peninsula $35.00 (33902)
This is a very fine Pinot Noir, one of several made by Le Clos Jordanne that puts it among the top three or four Pinot producers in Niagara-and there are some excellent Pinots coming from the region. The solid flavours are dominated by ripe dark cherry, and spice and herbs add attractive complexity. The balance is good and lively, making this a great partner for grilled lamb chops. (RP)

Canada: White wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Henry of Pelham Gewürztraminer 2005
VQA Niagara Peninsula $17.95 (268359)
This is a terrific Gewürz, delivering great fruit complexity and a really attractive texture. Look for classic flavours of lychee, apricot and peach, with a smattering of white pepper and spices. The weight is full and the texture is quite fat, but there's a nice seam of acidity throughout. Pair this with spicy Thai dishes for a real treat. (RP)

Canada: Red wine

**** drink or cellar
Cave Spring Gamay Reserve 2004
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (289082)
Gamay appears on just about every list of the three red varieties that shine in Niagara. This 2004 from Cave Spring (whose entry-level Gamay on the LCBO General List is very good value, too) delivers a lot more heft and flavour than you'd expect, and it's reminiscent of the Beaujolais that came out of France's hot 2003 vintage. Here it's a matter of vine management and winemaking, and you should look for intense, complex fruit (cherry dominant), with good weight. Pair it with a grilled veal chop. (RP)

U.S.A.: Red wine

***** cellar
Dominus 2003
Napa Valley $104.95 (703850)
The 2003 vintage of this much-anticipated-by-a-small-number-of wine-lovers wine is quite remarkable. It's delivers sheer elegance and style and an astonishing complexity. The range of flavours you get with each taste is palate-boggling, and I won't even start, because the list I made just looks pretentious! The tannins are sweet and fine, but they're a bit too present for current drinking. So tuck this away for ten years, then drink it over the next five with a fine piece of lamb roasted or grilled medium-rare. (RP)

****1/2 drink now
Five Rivers Pinot Noir 2005
Central Coast $19.95 (684514)
This is very good value for a Pinot Noir of this quality. It's polished and stylish, with good fruit intensity and complexity. Look for solid ripe cherry flavours with notes of spice and herbs in an attractive New World style. Pair it with vegetarian lasagna that has a layer of Portobello mushrooms. (RP)

****1/2 drink or cellar
J. Lohr "Los Osos" Merlot 2003
Paso Robles $21.95 (27516)
Soft, classy and quite elegant, this Merlot delivers plush fruit, with plum and black cherry flavours to the fore. Well structured and balanced, it has fine, sweet tannins and makes an excellent partner with grilled lamb chops. (RP)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Jekel Pinot Noir 2005
Monterey County $23.95 (27268)
Look for concentrated flavours of dark cherry and berries with a lively, spicy texture. It's medium bodied with good structure through and through and makes a fine pour with grilled chicken, sautéed mushrooms, and root vegetables. (RP)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Kendall-Jackson Vintner's Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
Sonoma, Napa, Mendocino Counties $19.95 (331603)
This multi-region delight demonstrates how effective geographical blending can be. It's a totally delicious Cab that delivers luscious fruit with spicy notes and fleeting hints of vanilla. It's lively and is ready to drink now (with pepper steak) and the tannins will let you enjoy the other bottles over the next five years. (RP)

Argentina: Red wine

***** drink or cellar
Finca Flichman Paisaje de Barrancas 2002
Argentina - Mendoza $16.95 (017129)
(Previously reviewed in Winecurrent) This is a super wine at a remarkable price. A blend of 70% Syrah, 25% Malbec and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon, it delivers concentrated and focused flavours of black berries and plums with loads of complexity. Look for pepper and spices, mint and coffee, but you'll track even more as the wine evolves in your glass. It's one of those wines that's kaleidoscopic in its complexity. The tannins are still firm, so it's better held for a year or two. Drink it as you would in Argentina, with roasted or grilled red meats. (RP)

**** drink now
Navarro Correas Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2003
Mendoza $17.95 (28936)
This is a well-priced Cab that delivers a burst of sweet, complex fruit (cassis, black plum and cherry) with good acid balance and fairly soft tannins. Ideal for grilled red meat, it's drinking well now and will easily hold at this level for another couple of years. (RP)

**** drink now
Raza Argentina Malbec 2004
Famatina Valley $14.95 (17038)
From the comments I hear, more and more wine-buyers are looking Argentinean Malbecs when they want good-value, substantial reds. Well, here's another, folks! This is an excellent price for a wine that delivers rich fruit with layers of complexity and food-friendly balance. It's a little rustic and, for my money, that adds to the appeal. Drink it with grilled red meats, just as they do in Argentina. (RP)

**** drink or cellar
Weinert Malbec 2000
Mendoza $15.95 (556795)
This is a big, fleshy Malbec that delivers a lot of fruit weight, along with nice complexity. There are smoky notes along with spicy accents, and the texture veers toward the fat. Overall, it's a great mouthful and would alternate well with mouthfuls of red meat, grilled medium-rare. (RP)

Australia: White wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Hungerford Hill Chardonnay 2005
Tumbarumba, NSW $22.95 (15479)
This is a beautiful Chardonnay that's characterized by a luscious, creamy texture and attractive flavours of peach, stewed pear, and white grapefruit, with a nutty note on the finish. It has great complexity and length and pairs well with grilled chicken or pork with a fruit compote. (RP)

Australia: Red wine

****1/2 cellar
Hope Estate "The Ripper!" Shiraz 2004
Western Australia $19.95 (686865)
Totally delicious! It really is a ripper, which means the same as "bonzer." It's one of those elegant Australian Shirazes that has all the fruit you expect, but with elegant structure and complexity. This is a nice, inexpensive addition to your cellar. You could drink it now but it will improve over the next two or three years. Then drink it in the next four or five. (RP)

New Zealand: White wine

**** drink now
Wairau River Sauvignon Blanc 2005
Marlborough $19.95 (14340)
Rich, concentrated and crisp, this is a New Zealand Sauv in the classic style. Look for pungent grassiness, some passion fruit, and zesty acidity. It made me yearn for a dozen freshly-shucked oysters. (RP)

South Africa: Red wine

**** drink or cellar
Bon Cap Organic Cabernet Sauvignon 2003
WO Robertson $19.95 (11064)
If you're looking for a dry red, look no further. This is a bone-dry Cab that delivers very attractive fruit, good fruit-acid balance, and serious tannic dryness. Pair it with protein, like a rare steak. (RP)

**** drink or cellar
Clos Malverne Pinotage Reserve 2003
WO Stellenbosch $17.95 (24182)
This seems to strike a middle ground between older and newer styles of Pinotage. It has the good solid fruit, complexity and texture of the more recent styles, with the rusticity of the older style. I like it and it makes an excellent partner to grilled red meat and root vegetables. (RP)

France: White wine

**** drink now
Allimant-Laugner Muscat 2005
AOC Alsace $16.95 (21279)
A rich, fat, plush Muscat with luscious flavours of white grapes, spice and white pepper. It's off-dry with a mouth-filling texture and makes a great foil to spicy, but not too hot, Asian cuisine. (RP)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Schlumberger "Les Princes Abbés" Pinot Gris 2003
AOC Alsace $20.95 (21253)
This is one great Pinot Gris. It delivers loads of flavour-tropical fruit, apricot, pears-and has a rich, fat texture with a moderating seam of acidity. Well focused and nicely priced, too, it's a natural for sweet, spicy Asian dishes. (RP)

France: Red wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Château Cantelys 2003
AOC Pessac-Léognan $36.95 (19786)
This is quite a pretty wine, a reminder that the torrid 2003 vintage isn't all blowsy and high alcohol wines (this one is 13% alcohol). It has concentrated, ripe fruit flavours, all right, but they're complex and in harmony with the other components. This is a really good price, and I'd suggest cellaring three or more of these for five years, then drinking them over the next five to seven. (RP)

****1/2 drink now
Mas Janeil Côtes du Roussillon-Villages 2004
AOC Côtes du Roussillon-Villages $16.95 (992800)
Made from three classic southern French varieties (Grenache, Carignan, Syrah), this has a slightly candied nose. It leads into complex flavours of concentrated red and dark fruit with accents of spice, pepper, coffee and chocolate. A little rustic in the texture, and a very good buy. Pair it with grilled red meats. (RP)

Italy: White wine

**** drink now
Bollini Pinot Grigio 2005
DOC Trentino $15.95 (951319)
Clean and dry, this makes an excellent partner to food, particularly lightly-spiced Asian dishes. The flavours are fairly austere, with white peach, apricot pit and spices coming to the fore, and there's a slight bitter note on the finish. But it adds up to a very attractive mouthful and it's well priced. (RP)

Italy: Red wine

**** drink or cellar
Segna Vento Primitivo di Manduria 2004
DOC Primitivo di Manduria $19.95 (23143)
Look for bright red fruit flavours here, with a nice core of sweetness right through the centre. It's balanced toward food, and will pair well with Osso Bucco. The drying tannins are manageable now, but you can also hold this for another four or five years. (RP)

**** drink or cellar
Donnafugata "Sedàra" Nero d'Avola 2004
IGT Sicily $15.95 (900274)
A lovely red from a very good producer at an excellent price. Need I say more? It has excellent sweet, dark fruit and spicy flavours, medium-plus body, and it goes very well with grilled red meats. (RP)

Spain: Red wine

**** drink or cellar
Bodegas Gran Fontal Reserva 2001
DO La Mancha $19.95 (28118)
A very well made wine that over-delivers on value. You'll find intense dark and red fruit flavours with a host of spice and herb notes. Medium to full in weight, it's dry with moderate tannins, and it makes a great partner to roast pork tenderloin and prunes. (RP)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Cosme Palacio y Hermanos Tinto 2004
DOC Rioja $17.95 (237834)
This is really terrific value. It's an excellent wine that is full of cherry and berry flavours, overlain with hints of spice and glimpses of vanilla oak. Medium-bodied with a quite elegant texture, it's a natural for roast beef or lamb. (RP)
**** drink now
Manga del Brujo 2004
DO Calatayud $16.95 (15073)
A blend of Grenache, Tempranillo, Shiraz, Mazuelo and Monastrell, this is complex with a big range of flavours. You'll find fresh and dried fruit, smokiness, spices, and pepper among others. It's medium bodied, nicely balanced, and makes an excellent match for gourmet burgers. (RP)

Cheers!

Rod and Vic

Rating System

We use the following symbols when rating wines:

5 starsWines achieving nirvana
4 stars Wines of excellence
3 stars Wines well worth trying
2  stars Wines below average, but drinkable
1 star Wines better avoided, unless desperate
half star Represents a half star
2 glassesWe both agree —a brilliant wine!
drink nowDrink now and over the next 2 years
drink or cellarDrink now and over the next 5 years
cellarPlace in cellar