June 6, 2021 Newsletter
Newsletter Highlights:
- 95 points and over – No wine rang the 95 points and over bell.
- Over 55 – There are over 55 wine reviews in this newsletter.
- Exceptional-value wine – There are thirty exceptional-value wines found throughout the newsletter and easily spotted by the
icon checkmark in the June 12, 2021 Vintages Release and in the many categories following the release. Happy hunting! - Limited Time Offers –There are 26 wines that are reviewed in this newsletter and are being discounted at the LCBO for up to a $5.00 rebate for each bottle purchased from now to June 20, 2021, waiting to be discovered at the end of the newsletter.
Vintages Release: June 12, 2021
Fortified Wine: Vermouth
• Vermouth is an aromatized, fortified wine that has flavours added by the addition of herbs, spice, fruit, roots and/or bark. It’s made from wine, or wine must. It can be white, rosé, red or yellow and is fortified by high-alcohol, neutral brandy. It’s believed to have originated in China some time before 1000 BC with the more modern-day version produced first in Turin, Italy in the latter half of the 18th C. It can be dry or sweet. It was traditionally made with wormwood added, this is now banned—among many other side effects from wormwood are kidney failure, paralysis and death. The following Vermouth is sweet. This is a stunning aperitif over the rocks.
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Giulio Cocchi Vermouth Di Torino
Italy $29.95 (461913) 16.0% alcohol
The spirited nose—with aromas of iodine, orange peel, spun sugar and caramel—will certainly get your attention. Flavours of candied peel marmalade, sweet, honey-dipped mandarin orange and aromatic bitters attack the palate with gusto persisting through the long and über-delicious aftertaste. Primarily used in cocktails—Martini, Manhattan et al—it’s also quite good on its own, on the rocks. (Vic Harradine)
Ontario: Icewine
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Château des Charmes Vidal Icewine
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $28.95 200ml (565861) 9.5% alcohol
This is the perfect after-dinner treat on its own or with dessert and … it’s the ideal size for two or three people to enjoy. Aromas and flavours of mango-infused treacle, candied-peel marmalade and racy lemon curd interweave on the nose, palate and delectable finish and aftertaste—this is absolutely delicious. It’s also the perfect hostess gift presented in an attractive box. (Vic Harradine)
Sparkling Wine
• Crafted like a Blanc de Blancs champagne with 100% chardonnay, this Méthode Traditionnelle bubbly from Château des Charmes is aged in bottle for at least two years while resting on its lees from its 2nd fermentation in the bottle(s) you purchase. The bottles are disgorged just before being released from the winery, a sign of extra special care for a premium quality wine.
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Château des Charmes ‘Blanc de Blancs’ Sparkling Wine 2016
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $34.95 (423111) 12.5% alcohol
This is a crystalline pale-yellow shaded sparkling gem with vivid tiny beads rising to the top of the glass and lifting delicate aromas of pear, lemon rind, brioche and slate minerality. A dense and soft-like-meringue froth fills the palate with yellow apple and pear flavours adorned with a layer of lemon curd, a touch of vanilla and finishing on a beautiful crisp and airy mineral note. This can further evolve with additional cellaring but why wait, it is so gorgeous right now. Enjoy on its own or with seafood salad or grilled halibut under a squeeze of lemon. (Louise Boutin)
• The following Non-Vintage Chateau des Charmes Sparkling Wine ‘Méthode Traditionelle’ was recently disgorged—after spending 18 months on its lees—guaranteeing you freshness and vitality. It’s a chardonnay/pinot noir blend with premium, estate-grown, hand-picked fruit and handled with loving care.
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Chateau des Charmes Sparkling Wine ‘Méthode Traditionelle’ Non-Vintage
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $25.95 (224766) 12.5% alcohol
This provides terrific value; stock up. It offers a lively nose of baking brioche and lemon-lime aromas. A profusion of fine-bead bubbles make a substantial mousse when poured and continue in endless thin streams making their way to the top of your glass. Almost off-dry flavours of apple and pear on the palate are joined by a bracing line of lemon curd and Key lime persisting through the mouth-watering finish—clean, crisp and refreshing. (Vic Harradine)
Ontario: White Wine
• The following 2020 Featherstone Estate Winery Sauvignon Blanc was sourced from 100% Sauvignon Blanc on clone 317, 17-year-old vines with SO4 rootstock. Once picked, fruit was crushed/destemmed and allowed to cold soak for eight hours. Juice yield was 600 liters per tonne that was transferred into stainless steel fermentation tanks. After eight hours of juice fining and settling, it was racked off gross lees then 20% barrel fermented using neutral Canadian oak barrels with temperature uncontrolled. The other 80 % was stainless steel fermented at 15 °C with commercial yeast strain X5. Ferments were racked off lees several times before final fining.
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Featherstone Estate Winery Sauvignon Blanc 2020
VQA Niagara Peninsula $17.95 (89011) 13.5% alcohol
Herbaceous aromas of mint, basil and rosemary leap from the nose of this savory sauvignon blanc. It envelops the palate with herb-infused, tang-laden flavours of minerality and hints of flinty bits along with sprigs of mixed herbs. It’s quite dry on the palate, finish and aftertaste. This would pour well with cooked and creamed spinach or grilled calamari under a squeeze of fresh lemon and a side of grilled greens. Great value here. (Vic Harradine)
• The following 2019 Henry of Pelham ‘Speck Family Reserve’ Riesling was sourced from the iconic 216 Weiss clone vines with a southern exposure that were shovel planted 35 years ago and now accredited Sustainable. Fruit was handpicked and moved by gravity once at the winery. It was gently destemmed sorted and whole-berry pressed then fermented in stainless steel at cool temperatures 15 - 17 °C as well a portion in 3000 L neutral oak foudres.
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Henry of Pelham ‘Speck Family - Reserve’ Riesling 2019
VQA Short Hills Bench $27.95 (643361) 9.8% alcohol
There are aromas of piquant spice, flinty minerality and wisps of petrol on the nose. It surges over the palate with a laser-like spine of tart, racy acidity that’s soon joined by lime cordial on the middle and back palate persisting through the finish and lengthy mouth-watering aftertaste decorated by oodles of pizzazz and Granny Smith apple. This is well paced and well priced, balanced, just off-dry and generous on the palate, it’s an easy wine to match with seafood. Give scallops quickly pan-seared in butter in a hot skillet a try, or a platter of mussels steamed in white wine, leeks and cream. Pick up a few bottles and enjoy over the next five or six years. (Vic Harradine)
Ontario: Red Wine
• The following gamay noir droit is sourced from Château des Charmes very own mutant clone, discovered in their vineyard in the early 1980s. This was the first vinifera vine born in Canada and that granted them International Breeder’s Rights making them the only producer in the world allowed to grow this vine and produce a wine called Gamay Noir Droit. In order to highlight the uniqueness of the varietal, no oak is used in the winemaking process.
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Château des Charmes Gamay Noir Droit 2018
VQA St. David’s Bench $19.95 (346742) 12.5% alcohol
Expect aromas of sour cherry, dry cranberry, forest floor and a smoked note in the background. This is a medium-light bodied flow of ripe red fruit flavours travelling easily on the palate, grabbing along the way tangy raspberry and earthy notes and revealing a soft chalky tannin structure in the dry pleasant finish. Chill for about 15 minutes and pair with charcuterie or chicken brochettes on the grill. (Louise Boutin)
California: White Wine
• The following Fess Parker ‘Marcella’s White Wine 2017 was sourced from three vineyards in Santa Ynez Valley—44% Camp Four Vineyard/31% Rodney’s Vineyard/ 25% Vogelzang Vineyard. The grape blend is 47% viognier/38% grenache blanc/12% roussanne/3% marsanne. Fruit was 73% barrel fermented then aged nine months in one-year and older French oak, pre-loved barrels.
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Fess Parker ‘Marcella’s’ White Wine 2017
Santa Barbara, California $21.95 (17580) 14.1% alcohol
Piquant, lifted aromas of honeydew melon, white flowers and ginger root abound. It surges over the palate with a resounding river of rollicking flavours with orange and lemon peel marmalade, apricot, nutty notes and sweet vanilla bean to the fore. It finishes with replays of palate flavours that become crisp and refreshing on the finish and aftertaste. Pour with green-curry chicken.
Argentina: Red Wine
• The following 2018 Luigi Bosca ‘Single Vineyard’ Malbec was sourced from 100% Malbec vines with an average age of 70 years from the, ‘Finca La Linda Vineyard’, at 960 m above sea level. The grapes were hand harvested with cluster selection then they are destemmed and sorted at the winery with only premium grapes selected. The must is cold-soaked macerated for three to five days at temperatures from 10 °C to 15 °C. Fruit is then fermented by selected yeast in small stainless steel tank with delestage and pressings. When fermented, the wine is placed in new French oak barrels for malo-lactic fermentation then matured for 12 to 14 months. Once wine is stabilized, filtered and bottled and stored for at least six months, it can be released. This is the first Argentina Malbec wine to be bottled with a DOC Luján de Cuyo.
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Bodega Luigi Bosca ‘Single Vineyard’ Malbec 2018
DOC Luján de Cuyo, Argentina $29.95 (749221) 14.4% alcohol
Rich, lifted aromas of dark cherry/berry fruit, baking spice and savoury herbs waft easily from the glass. It dishes up a flow of pure palate-pleasing ambrosia with dark juicy Bing cherry, bramble berry and blueberry adorned with red licorice, espresso roast and notions of dark bittersweet chocolate. This is medium-plus bodied, mellow and creamy smooth, with deft balance, persistent purity of fruit and a lingering, lip-smacking finish and mouth-watering aftertaste that’s icing on the cake.
Chile: White Wine
• Quino is a native word meaning ‘between two rivers’. The following 2019 Viña William Févre ‘little Quino’ Sauvignon Blanc was sourced from Chile’s southernmost vineyards and a relatively new growing area. The juice was fermented when still a bit cloudy to capture more mouthfeel and texture and was kept at a slightly higher fermentation temperature to capture and preserve more primary aromas. It was fermented with selected yeasts.
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Viña William Févre ‘little Quino’ Sauvignon Blanc 2019
D.O. Malleco Valley, Chile $15.95 (17609) 11.8% alcohol
Aromas of flinty minerality, musk melon and sprigs of herbs dominate the nose of this 100% sauvignon blanc. It rolls over the palate with a line of bracing acidity expressed as flavours of lemon, mineral notes and white grapefruit from first to last drop and is persistent through the finish and aftertaste. This is medium weight with good texture and pours well with pan-seared freshwater fish under a squeeze of fresh lemon or sushi. (Vic Harradine)
France: Red Wine
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Gérard Bertrand ‘Terroir Fitou’ 2018
AOP Fitou $17.95 (403683) 14.5% alcohol
Carbonic maceration is used for the carignan portion of this red blend completed with grenache then aged in large barriques for 12 months. Plum compote and fresh raspberry with a touch dusty stone introduce a flow of tart fruit flavours—red cherry, raspberry and cranberry followed with a nice dry herb profile trailing in the finish and aftertaste. This is medium-full bodied with a great dose of acidity and soft tannin making it a great partner for grilled artisan sausages and ratatouille. Aerate/decant one hour before meal time. (Louise Boutin)
• The following Maison Saint Aix Rosé 2020 was sourced in “… one of the best Aix vintages ever". The blend in this wine is classic—60% grenache/20% syrah/20% cinsault—and was harvested in the coolest part of the day—between 4 am and 10 am. This wine is served in Michelin-starred restaurants around the world.
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Maison Saint Aix ‘Aix’ Rosé 2020
AOP Coteaux d’Aix en Provence, France $24.95 (451906) 13.0% alcohol
Watermelon rind aromas meet citrus and pretty freesia flower notes in this popular rosé. A little tingle on the tip of the tongue introduces delicious flavours of nectarine, ruby grapefruit and a piquant ginger note delivered in a medium-bodied fashion and a nice chalky minerality emerging in the dry satisfying finish. An excellent sipper to share with friends or pair with fresh watermelon and feta salad. (Louise Boutin)
New in Ontario Wineries
• For daily home, office or restaurant delivery for the following wine order online from this link Malivoire Wine Company with FREE shipping on orders of $100 or more, or $20 credited next business day towards delivery outside Ontario and Québec. Phone 905-563-9253 Monday to Friday 10 am - 5 pm on weekdays and noon to 5 pm for information and for locals to access curbside pickup instructions. Their retail shop is now open - 10 am - 5 pm on weekdays, and noon to 5 pm on Saturday and Sunday. There are guidelines due to COVID-19 that change often, best to phone or email first (the website has a space to type and is linked to their email).
• The following 2020 Malivoire ‘Moira’ Rosé is sourced from 100% hand-harvested, pinot noir from the original estate, Moira vineyard on the iconic Beamsville Bench. Whole-grape clusters were gently pressed then chilled in a horizontal stainless steel tank before being transferred to a vertical stainless steel tank to be fermented dry in a cool fermentation with the finished, certified-sustainable wine bottled in December 2020. Another wine that shines in the dazzling Ontario 2020 vintage.
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Malivoire ‘Moira’ Rosè 2020
VQA Beamsville Bench $24.95 12.5% alcohol
This pale-pink gem offers aromas of red fruit—plum, cherry and strawberry—mingling with floral notes. Palate-enveloping flavours of tangy red grapefruit, crunchy passionfruit and grapefruit pith ride on a linear line of acidity and pizzazz on entry tempered by ripe strawberry and hints of watermelon on the mid-palate and finish. This is light on its feet with balance and a lingering dry finish and aftertaste. Give it a go with salmon papillote. (Vic Harradine)
• The following 2017 Malivoire ‘Stouck’ Merlot was sourced from the Stouck Family Vineyard in mid-November as the ripe unfermented grapes averaged 22.3 ° Brix—a scale that measures the sugar level in unfermented grapes. After an alcoholic fermentation and a full malo-lactic fermentation, the wine was matured in five barrels—two neutral French oak/two new American oak/one neutral American oak for nine months after which it was aged in a 1000L ‘Garbellotto’ cask for another five months before being bottled May 2019.
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Malivoire ‘Stouck’ Merlot 2017
VQA Lincoln Lakeshore $34.95 13.5% alcohol
Delicate aromas of cherry clafoutie, mixed sprigs of herbs and spice along with black plum and Ribena © dominate the nose of this gem of a merlot. It’s creamy smooth on the palate with a concentrated stream of ripe dark fruit—cherry, black currant and blueberry—decorated with vanilla, tang and pizzazz, and is bolstered by ripe, soft tannin. It’s generously textured, well balanced and showcases persistent purity of fruit from cork pop to last drop. (Vic Harradine)
• The following two Marynissen Estates Wines are available for purchase and delivery to your home, office or restaurant online with free shipping in Ontario with a minimum order of six bottles or for curbside pick-up at the winery - order ahead online, here’s a map. The ‘Lokaal White’ is also available from the LCBO.
• The following 2020 Marynissen Estates Rosé was sourced from an eclectic blend of 35% pinot noir/25% riesling/20% pinot gris/11% cabernet franc/9% muscat selected from select plots in the VQA Niagara Peninsula appellation. The pinot noir was harvested and cold soaked for six hours prior to being pressed and fermented cool in stainless steel tank while the cabernet franc juice was bled off the skins after three hours in tank and fermented warm in stainless steel while the pinot noir and riesling fermentations were arrested to provide aromatic intensity and to preserve a portion of the residual sugar for balance in the finished wine. Pinot gris and cabernet franc were both fermented to dryness with the final proportions of the blend decided based on aromatic intensity, flavour, and texture. This wine is yet another stellar example of the dazzling 2020 vintage for Ontario wines and is splendidly priced; order six bottles or a case of 12. It’s also available at the LCBO.
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Marynissen Estates Rosé 2020
VQA Niagara Peninsula $16.95 (16454) 11.5% alcohol
A psychedelic pink in the glass, aromas of strawberry and cherry abound on the nose. It blankets the palate balanced on a pin with plenty of ripe red apple and ripe red cherry adorned with oodles of tangy passionfruit and hints of pie cherry that start on entry, expand at mid-palate and persist with purity of fruit through the lip-smacking finish and mouth-watering aftertaste. Delicious on its own, it really sings out when poured with chèvre crumbled on olive-oiled mesclun salad or pan-seared calamari or steamed mussels. (Vic Harradine)
• The following 2019 Marynissen Estates ‘Lokaal - White’. Lokaal (pronounced local) is the Dutch word for "local", a nod to the pioneering founders of Marynissen Estates. It’s an inspired blend of 48% vidal/37% gewürztraminer/15% chardonnay. This wine showcases the unique profile of local hybrid and vinifera grapes and dazzles the palate paying homage to the fabulous 2020 Ontario wine vintage. The price-quality balance tips well in your favour; pick up an armful at this price. It’s also available at the LCBO.
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Marynissen Estates ‘Lokaal - White’ 2019
VQA Niagara Peninsula $13.95 (20508) 12.0% alcohol
Alluring aromas of exotic spice and incense mingle with tropical fruit, rosewater and whiffs of Juicy Fruit © gum. It envelops the palate with a gusher of ambrosia riding a balanced and bountiful wave of dazzling flavours with ginger root, Key lime cordial and plenty of tang and pizzazz from twist top to final drop. This is clean, crisp and refreshing. Just the wine to be drunk now and in summer on its own, and in the fall and winter with fish and seafood. (Vic Harradine)
• Order the following two wines by the bottle(s) or case(s) for daily delivery to home, office or restaurant online from this link to Henry of Pelham – There is free delivery on 12 or more bottles in Ontario. Select ‘12 Bottles+’ at check out and allow up to 10 days for delivery or, order online then pick up bottle(s) or case(s) from the winery at 1469 Pelham Rd, St. Catharines ON. Here’s a map.
• The following 2018 Speck Brothers ‘Family Tree – The Padré’ Cabernet-Merlot is available only at the winery and is available now. It’s also sustainably grown and sourced from a cabernet franc/cabernet sauvignon/merlot blend that is named in honour of the Speck brothers’ father who was a Padré before starting his winery with his three sons. The wine has been matured for a period of 16 months in 60% French and 40% American oak barrels with a mixture of new and pre-loved oak.
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Speck Brothers ‘Family Tree – The Padré’ Cabernet-Merlot 2018
VQA Niagara Peninsula $21.95 (18667) 13.0% alcohol
Heavenly aromas rise from the glass—exotic incense, red and black cherry berry fruit, black licorice and wisps of pipe tobacco galore. It’s sourced from the holy trinity of the Bordeaux blend—cabernet franc/cabernet sauvignon/merlot. It rolls over the palate balanced on a pin with a mouthful of flavour—ripe black currant and raspberry robed in excellent tang and acidity and wisps of dark chocolate. It’s medium-weight and smooth as silk throughout the tasting experience and it’s so much more than the psalm of its parts. Pick up a case and rejoice over the next 12 months or so. (Vic Harradine)
New in Vintages (now available in LCBO retail stores and at the Henry of Pelham winery)
• The following 2020 Speck Brothers ‘Family Tree – The Bootlegger’ Baco Noir was sustainably grown and 20% barrel aged in American oak and 80% in stainless steel tanks. During Prohibition—arguably between 1916 and 1927 in Ontario—light airplanes would land by estate vineyards to pick up wine and spirits that had been produced in nearby barns.
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Speck Brothers ‘Family Tree – The Bootlegger’ Baco Noir 2020
VQA Ontario $17.95 (16791) 13.3% alcohol
There’s considerable fruit aromas on the nose—dark cherry and black plum—decorated with savoury herbs and hints of wood smoke. It pleases the palate with a sweet-tinged wash of kirsch liqueur and cassis. This is medium-bodied with good mouthfeel, decent balance and persistent purity of fruit and flavour from entry to finish and aftertaste. This shines when served with pulled pork or smoked and grilled back ribs slathered with spicy barbecue sauce. (Vic Harradine)
New in the LCBO (now available in LCBO stores with a discount of $2. off each bottle purchased now to June 20th, 2021)
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Wakefield ‘Promised Land’ Shiraz 2019
South Australia $14.60 (441543) 14.0% alcohol
Aromas of mixed field berry fruit, spice and savoury herbs provide segue for a tasty river of palate-bathing flavours with ripe mulberry, dark juicy cherry and hints of blueberry juxtaposed and tempered with tang and pizzazz that all persist through the finish and aftertaste. The price-quality balance tips well in your favour, pick up a few. (Vic Harradine)
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Wakefield ‘Promised Land’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2019
South Australia $14.60 (358838) 14.0% alcohol
Aromas of red and dark berry fruit mingle with mint and notions of minerality. It spreads over the palate easily with smooth and luscious flavours of red pie cherry nicely balanced with ripe black plum and dark cherry. This is well balanced by a lovely streak of tangy passionfruit mid-palate and persists through the finish and aftertaste. Pour with grilled gourmet sausage or home-made burgers. (Vic Harradine)
Upstream in winecurrent
New in the LCBO (a new product available in LCBO stores by June 20, 2021)
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Buena Vista ‘the Legendary Badge – Boisset Collection’ Zinfandel 2019
California $17.95 (20806) 13.5% alcohol
Exotic spice and brambleberry dominate the nose decorated with sprigs of savoury herbs. It surges over the palate with flavours galore—black currant, juicy ripe black cherry and notions of kirsch liqueur adorned with mixed spice and superb balance provided by plenty of tang and pizzazz. It’s medium-plus bodied with good mouthfeel, delicious flavours that are balanced and bountiful. Zin-lovers should make certain they have a few bottles on hand during barbecue season.
New in LCBO (expected arrival is July 24, 2021)
• The following 2018 Lapis Luna Cabernet Sauvignon was sourced from 100% cabernet sauvignon from the California AVA of Lodi. All fruit was gently destemmed and crushed then inoculated with select strains of yeast then pumped-over twice daily with a temperature peak of 32.2 °C. It was macerated for 12 to 28 days and matured in barrel for 10 months.
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Lapis Luna Cabernet Sauvignon 2018
Lodi, California $19.95 (17809) 14.4% alcohol
Gentle aromas of floral, herbs and notions of ripe dark fruit—plum, currant and cherry—provide segue for a delightful river of smooth and mellow, palate-bathing flavour with black currant, dark bittersweet chocolate and notions of pie cherry to the fore. The finish and aftertaste replay palate flavours along with a hint of chalky tannin. This is medium-full bodied and nicely balanced with persistent purity of fruit and plenty of pizzazz. Pick up an armful and pour with grilled rack of lamb or barbecued beefsteak. (Vic Harradine)
Vintages Release: July 24, 2021
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Ferraton Père & Fils Plan de Dieu 2019
AOP Côtes-Du-Rhône Villages, Plan de Dieu, France $19.95 (74229) 15% alcohol
This red blend—cariñena/garnacha/mourvèdre\syrah—opens with aromas of bramble berry and herbs. It’s quite smooth with great mouthfeel on the palate as it delivers well-balanced and delicious mouthfuls of flavour—bramble berry and vanilla balanced with racy tang of pie cherry—that replay and persist through the finish and aftertaste. Lovely to sip on, it’s also versatile at the table as it matches nicely with roast chicken, burgers and steak. (Vic Harradine)
Vintages Release: July 24, 2021
• The following 2020 Cote des Roses Chardonnay was sourced from vineyards grown in varied compositions but mainly in pebble-strewn soils with a sub-soil of limestone and schist. Grapes are mechanically harvested and optically sorted at the same time. Grapes are destemmed at the winery and cooled down to 8 °C and transferred to press. Only the first, high-quality juice makes its way to this wine. The fermentation of this 100% Chardonnay lasts between 15 and thirty-plus days depending on temperature and clarification. After light fining, the wine is bottled quite early to preserve the fresh, fruity character of this wine. The bottom of the bottle is carved in the shape of a rose and makes an elegant flower vase and the bottle is sealed with an ingenious glass and plastic stopper.
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Cote des Roses Chardonnay 2020
IGP Pays D’Oc, France $18.95 (10621) 13.5% alcohol
Aromas of pineapple, exotic floral notes and lemon pastille abound on the nose. It surges over the palate with flavours of lemon zest, lime juice and plenty of nerve and verve, tang and acidity, tempered with saline minerality and orchard fruit—pear and apple—on the mouth-watering finish and lip-smacking aftertaste. This is crisp, clean and refreshing. Delightful on its own, it pours particularly well with pan-seared salmon, steamed mussels or grilled calamari—all with a generous squeeze of fresh lemon. (Vic Harradine)
Vintages Release: August 7, 2021
• The following 2018 Domaine Berger-Rive ‘Manoir de Mercey - Au Paradis’ was sourced from +50-year-old vines of 100% pinot noir at 300 m elevation near the southernmost village of the Côtes de Beaune. The fruit in this wine was macerated for eight days at 28 to 30 °C with a peak of 34 °C. After approximately three weeks fermentation the wine was aged for 12 months in oak barrels where it underwent a malolactic fermentation.
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Domaine Berger-Rive ‘Manoir de Mercey - Au Paradis’ 2018
AOC Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Beaune, France $26.95 (20913) 13% alcohol
Aromas of piquant spice and savoury herbs leap from the glass intertwined with red cherry/berry fruit and notions of passionfruit and wood smoke. It races over the palate with tang-infused acidity and drying tannins riding a wave of passionfruit and pie cherry that persist through the finish and aftertaste. Careful cellaring for two or more years should be handsomely rewarded. (Vic Harradine)
Vintages Release: August 7, 2021
• The following wine is named 96 Points, though no wine critic that I know of has rated it this highly. The marketing people at the winery believe this to be both a good marketing ploy and use it as a tongue in cheek approach that you can read on the back label. This 100% cabernet sauvignon was sourced from the warm Lodi AVA in California. All fruit was gently destemmed and crushed then inoculated with selected yeast before being pumped-over twice daily with temperature peaking at 32.2 °C. Fruit was macerated for 12 to 18 days and barrel-aged for 12 months.
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96 Points Cabernet Sauvignon 2018
Lodi, California $23.95 (19316) 14.4% alcohol
Aromas of floral, mixed field berry and spice can be coaxed from the glass after a few vigorous swirls. It blankets the palate with medium-plus bodied, well-textured stream of ripe black cherry, sweet vanilla and hints of black licorice. It’s sweet-tinged throughout with a mid-length finish and aftertaste. This would be a fine candidate for pulled pork or grilled back ribs slathered in spicy barbecue sauce. (Vic Harradine)
Vintages Release: August 7, 2021
• The following 2018 Gérard Bertrand Heresie is a new GSM blend of grenache noir/syrah/mourvèdre that were vinified separately with a traditional vatting period of ten days. The grenache noir is destemmed entirely and is macerated at a lower temperature to better express itself. The wines are then racked at the end of the malo-lactic fermentation.
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Gérard Bertrand Heresie 2018
AOC Corbières, France $19.95 (20582) 14.0% alcohol
Purple-black and almost opaque in the glass, a gentle swirl pays dividends with alluring aromas of exotic spice, black juicy Bing cherry and ripe mulberry intertwining with savoury herbs and hints of black licorice and espresso roast. It blankets the palate, mellow and smooth, with palate-flavours of dark cherry/berry fruit robed in a ripe tannin underpinning and oodles of tang and pizzazz. It’s medium-full bodied, with good balance and finishes with drying tannins. Aerate/decant for three hours before service. Pour with grilled gourmet sausage or backyard burgers after a two-hour aeration/decant. (Vic Harradine)
Vintages Release: September 4, 2021
• The following 2018 Pagos de Viña Real Tempranillo was sourced from estate owned and grown vines of 100% Tempranillo from the two hectare vineyard named, ‘La Romara’. Grapes are hand selected and handpicked in the vineyard and placed into 20 kg crates. A second sorting selection takes place at the winery and the selected premium grapes then begin to ferment with the help of ambient wild yeasts followed by post-fermentation maceration for several days with malolactic fermentation taking place in 300L French oak barrels where it remained for 12 months with regular batonnage for 12 months before being clarified and bottled.
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Pagos de Viña Real Tempranillo Rioja 2018
DOCa Rioja, Spain $69.95 (18595) 14.0% alcohol
Alluring, even sexy, aromas of exotic spice and incense, floral and musky notes abound. It captures the palate with a smooth-as-silk swath of nectar of the gods with ripe, juicy cherry/berry fruit and baking spice robed in tang and pizzazz and soft, ripe tannin. This showcases a winery that’s meticulous in all they do along with win’s attributes—deft balance, purity of fruit and a monumentally lengthy and luscious finish and aftertaste. If you fish in these rarified, pricey waters, it’s worth every penny. (Vic Harradine)
Vintages Release: TBD, 2021
• Fruit for the following 2018 Vignobles Pelvillain ‘Domaine du Théron’ Malbec was sourced from 100% estate-grown and managed Malbec and this winery belongs to a group of sustainable wineries applying many techniques that are environmentally sound in both viticulture and viniculture. Soils are a combination of limestone and clay and a sand and clay while vines are an average age of about 28 years. Green harvest is applied after flowering that lower overall yields. Grass is also grown between the rows of vines to improve soils, fight erosion, make the use of herbicides unnecessary and control production. Grapes were macerated for 12 to 22 days in temperature controlled stainless steel vats then fermented at a maximum of 28 °C. Following fermentation wine aged 25% in oak barrels and 75% in stainless steel.
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Vignobles Pelvillain ‘Domaine du Théron’ Malbec 2018
AOP Cahors, France $16.95 13.0% alcohol
Deep purple, almost black and opaque in the glass, lifted aromas of floral notes, sprigs of mixed herbs and cherry/berry fruit abound. It surges over the palate with tang-infused flavours of Montmorency cherry, cranberry and passionfruit with an underpinning of still-evolving tannin. It’s medium weight with good concentration of fruit and would benefit from another year in bottle or a three-hour aeration/decant. (Vic Harradine)
• Fruit for the following 2018 Vignobles Pelvillain ‘Château du Port – Les Terrasses’ Malbec was sourced from 100% estate-grown and managed Malbec comprising of 17.5 acres of vines at 300 m above sea level that have gravel and clay, chalky soil. This winery belongs to a group of sustainable wineries applying many techniques that are environmentally sound in both viticulture and viniculture.
90
Vignobles Pelvillain ‘Château du Port – Les Terrasses’ Malbec 2018
AOC Cahors, France $15.95 13.5% alcohol
There are alluring aromas of exotic incense, floral notes and hints of red cherry/berry fruit on the nose. It rolls over the palate with flavours of bramble berry, black Bing cherry tinged with excellent tang and pizzazz joined by a ripe tannin underpinning that is easily ameliorated by a two-hour aeration/decant. The finish and aftertaste linger with palate flavour replays. Pour now with backyard burgers, grilled gourmet sausage or beer-can chicken. (Vic Harradine)
• The following 2019 Villa Mottura Primitivo di Manduria is managed by a family of 4th generation vignerons and this wine is sourced from 100% hand-harvested, ripe, primitivo grapes. It underwent traditional maceration of 10 to 12 days and fermentation of must under controlled temperature using delestage and pump-overs. The wine then spent six to eight months in oak barrel and a further two to three months in bottle before release.
89
Villa Mottura Primitivo di Manduria 2019
DOC Primitivo di Manduria, Italy $18.95 14.0% alcohol
Fresh and lively aromas of exotic incense, red cherry/berry fruit and floral notes jump from the glass. A medium-plus bodied surge of sweet vanilla, cherry clafoutie and ripe red cherry capture the palate robed in piquant spice and underpinned with ripe, soft fine-grained tannin. It finishes with pronounced flavours of sweet candy floss, cherry pastille and strawberry jam. This sweet-tinged red would be a near-perfect partner with grilled and smoked back ribs mopped with spicy barbecue sauce. (Vic Harradine)
• The following 2020 Villa Mottura Primitivo del Salento is primarily sourced from hand-picked primitivo grapes – 85% and 15% ‘other’ red grapes. The winery is managed by a family of 4th generation vignerons. The wine underwent traditional maceration for 10 to 12 days and fermentation of must under a controlled temperature of 20 °C with constant use of pumping over and delestage followed by full malo-lactic fermentation. It spent two months of refinement in bottle before release. This wine is certified, ‘Organic’.
90
Villa Mottura Primitivo del Salento 2020
IGT Primitivo del Salento, Italy $15.95 13.0% alcohol
Primary aromas of piquant spice, mixed field berry fruit and floral notes dominate the nose. Palate flavours of pie cherry and passionfruit supported by black juicy plum and notions of ripe bramble berry meet up with mixed herbs and excellent tang and pizzazz underpinned by soft, ripe tannin. This is medium-plus bodied with good mouthfeel and nicely balanced. The purity of fruit and flavour persist through the finish and aftertaste. The price-quality ratio skews wildly in your favour. (Vic Harradine)
LCBO ‘Limited Time Offers’ – May 24 to June 20, 2021
Regardless of the vintage you purchase from the LCBO, you’ll receive the discount shown for each bottle of wine reviewed below that’s purchased May 24 to June 20, 2021.
White Wine
• The following wine receives a $1.00 discount on each bottle purchased from the regular price shown below that’s purchased between May 24 and June 20, 2021.
88
Fielding ‘Unoaked’ Chardonnay
VQA Niagara Peninsula $15.95 (164491) 12.5% alcohol
Appealing aromas of green apple, pear, peach and citrus notes with notions of honeysuckle and spice precede nicely-textured palate-bathing flavours of red apple, lemon peel and beeswax. Dry and medium bodied, it’s creamy smooth and nicely textured due to time spent on its lees. Well balanced with refreshing acidity, it finishes mid-plus length with a pleasant mineral aftertaste. Pair this mouth-watering, exceptional-value chardonnay with chicken breast in a Dijon-tarragon cream sauce. (Lisa Isabelle)
• The following seven white wines receive a $2.00 discount on each bottle purchased from the regular price shown below May 24 to June 2, 2021.
87
Bollino Pinot Grigio
DOC Trentino, Italy $18.95 951319) 14.0% alcohol
Delicate aromas of straw and floral notes open the door to a medium-bodied, nicely textured wash of crisp refreshing white grapefruit intertwining with Granny Smith apple and mineral notes bathing the palate infusing the clean, zippy-dry finish and aftertaste. Pour this clean, mouth-watering pinot grigio with grilled fish or seafood under a squeeze of fresh lemon. (Vic Harradine)
• The following winery, Colombia Crest, is owned by Chateau Ste Michelle. Twenty-two percent of the fruit was pressed and settled in stainless steel, the balance was aged and hand-stirred, once-a-week in one- to three-year-old French and American oak barrel for nine months. The following is a fabulous wine at a deep discount. Pick up a few.
92
Columbia Crest Chardonnay
Columbia Valley, Washington State $17.95 (462846) 13.5% alcohol
Lifted aromas of spiced apple, pear and apricot introduce a gorgeous mouthful of ginger-infused tropical fruit and lemon pie filling. This is mid-plus weight with generous mouthfeel and oodles of charm. It finishes lengthy and luxurious with loads of fruit crowned with excellent moderating acidity. Pour with roast bird, pan-seared, firm fish or crown roast pork. (Vic Harradine)
• The following ‘Flat Rock Cellars ‘Twisted’ is the #1 selling white wine in LCBO’s ‘Vintages Essentials’ category. This vintage, the grape blend is 69% riesling/17% gewürztraminer/14% chardonnay.
91
Flat Rock Cellars ‘Twisted – White’
VQA Niagara Peninsula $17.95 (1578) 11.0% alcohol
There are aromas of green apple, ripe pear with wisps of lychee fruit and minerality on the nose of this lovely white blend. On the palate it’s medium bodied and generously textured with flavours galore—lime cordial, ripe pineapple, apple and scads of tangy pizzazz. It’s a tad off-dry and quite nicely balanced with complexity and persistent purity of fruit. The finish is crisp and refreshing with each sip bringing you back for more. There’s enough interest here to drink on its own, but a pairing with spicy chicken masala or General Tso’s chicken are inspired choices. (Vic Harradine)
• The following Kim Crawford Chardonnay is a Vintages Essentials wine always available in select LCBO stores.
90
Kim Crawford Chardonnay
Marlborough/Hawke’s Bay $19.95 (991950) 13.5% alcohol
This popular and well-priced chardonnay is clean and fresh on the nose with lots of mineral, peach, and floral aromas. It’s medium-full bodied on the palate with juicy acidity and flavours of apple and peach that fade in a luxuriously refreshing finish. Enjoy with Camembert cheese. (Dave Isaacs)
90
Malivoire ‘Estate Grown’ Chardonnay
VQA Beamsville Bench $19.95 (573147) 12.5% alcohol
A shy nose of Granny Smith apple and hints of baking spice aromas provide segue to a delightful array of deftly balanced palate flavours with honey-drizzled apple interwoven with lemon curd and sweet Bosc pear that persists throughout. This is medium weight, nicely textured and well balanced with a good seam of tang, persistent purity of fruit, plenty of charm and a delightfully lingering finish. It also offers a price-quality ratio tipped well in your favour - stock up. (Vic Harradine)
87
Mer Soleil ‘Reserve’ Chardonnay
Santa Lucia Highlands, Monterey County $34.95 (958975) 14.9% alcohol
Baking spice, caramel and toasty, buttery aromas unleash a huge gusher of flavour that will leave few imbibers without a strong opinion. If you’re looking for a full-bodied, fully textured, high-octane, tsunami wave of rich, luscious, sweet flavours—grilled pineapple, oak-inspired vanillin and caramel apple—then you should love this. There are tropical fruit notes along with ripe pear, a bit of citrus pith and wisps of oak on the sweet-tinged finish and aftertaste—not for the faint of palate. (Vic Harradine)
93
Vineland Estates ‘Elevation - St. Urban Vineyard’ Riesling
VQA Niagara Escarpment $19.95 (38117) 9.5% alcohol
Lifted aromas of lemony citrus, buckwheat honey and notions of petrol precede a dazzling off-dry surge of lemon-lime cordial, a bowl of tropical fruit—pineapple, mango, rambutan—along with oodles of tangy pizzazz persisting from the first drop through the palate to the delicious, balanced and beautiful finish and aftertaste. This is quite special. Pour on its own or with spicy Asian dishes—General Tso’s chicken, moo shu pork or tikka masala. Drink now to 2028. (Vic Harradine)
• The following Sella and Mosca red wine receives a $2.50 discount on the price shown below on each bottle purchased May 24 to June 20, 2021.
89
Sella and Mosca Cannoneau Di Sardegna ‘Riserva’
DOC Cannoneau Di Sardegna, Italy $17.95 (425488) 13.5% alcohol
This Cannoneau, a.k.a. grenache or garnacha, showers ripe fruit throughout along with good structure, intensity and balance. Aromas of anise, red berry fruit and wood smoke presage a steady wash of racy fruit flavour with red currant and pomegranate to the fore. It’s nicely balanced with a lengthy, dry finish layering on notions of dark coffee and spice. (Vic Harradine)
• The following three white wines receive a $3.00 discount on each bottle purchased May 24 to June 20, 2021.
92
Seven Falls Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon
Wahluke Slope, Columbia Valley, Washington State $21.95 (360222) 14.5% alcohol
This matured 15 to 18 months in seasoned and new oak barrel, mostly American with the balance French. There are aromas of dark berry fruit, mixed spice and espresso roast galore. This is ready to drink and oozing flavour with palate-coating flavours of dried currant and black, juicy Bing cherry interwoven with mint leaf, spice and vanilla. It finishes as it started—deftly balanced, fruit-forward, good depth and plenty of charm from cork pop to last drop. (Vic Harradine)
90
Stoneleigh ‘Latitude’ Sauvignon Blanc
Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand (324228) $21.95 13.0% alcohol
The fruit for this gem was sourced from the ‘Golden Mile’ in Marlborough, it’s blessed with extra warmth relayed by the stones covering the soil that allow the grapes to fully mature. Partially hand-harvested and aged six months in French oak, this delicious white offers citrus aromas along with lactic, cedar, grassy and mineral notes. Deliciously tart and crisp on the palate, this is medium bodied with flavours of grapefruit, honeydew melon and lime zest finished with beautiful minerality. Try alongside scallop ceviche for a mouth-watering pairing. (Louise Boutin)
89
Oyster Bay Sauvignon Blanc
Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand $19.95 (316570) 13.0% alcohol
Lemon-lime citrus, grassy and pit fruit on the nose, this washes across the palate at full sail with tangy, juicy flavours of lemon drop candy, herbaceous notes and lip-smacking key lime pie flavours. Medium bodied with a silky mouth feel and consistently one of the most popular white wines in the Vintages Essentials line up. (Vic Harradine)
Red Wines
• The following two red wines receive a $1.00 discount on each bottle purchased from the regular price shown below May 24 to June 2, 2021.
85
El Gorú Monastrell/Syrah/Petit Verdot
DOP Jumilla $13.95 (443945) 14.0% alcohol
This red blend is dominated by tart acidity, piquant spice and crunchy red fruit—currant, cranberry, pie cherry. It’s medium weight with good texture and a lengthy, tart and racy finish and aftertaste underpinned by drying tannin. Aerate/decant for two hours before serving—give it a go with pasta in tomato sauce. (Vic Harradine)
91
Featherstone Estate Winery Cabernet Franc
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (64618) 12.9% alcohol
The price-quality balance tips well in your favour here. Floral notes, graphite and hints of incense mingle with bramble berry on the nose of this medium-bodied, silky-smooth textured, delightful cab franc. It caresses the palate with a deftly balanced and immensely flavourful stream showcasing balance of tang and acidity, soft ripe tannin and delectable flavour with ripe red plum and cherry playing off good tang and a lengthy crisp and mouth-watering finish. Give this a go with comfort food off the grill—gourmet sausage, burgers, beer-can chicken. (Vic Harradine)
• The following seven red wines receive a $2.00 discount on each bottle purchased from the regular price shown below May 24 to June 2, 2021.
• The following Catena Cabernet Sauvignon is a Vintages Essential wine always available in select LCBO stores. This 100% cabernet sauvignon is sourced across Catena’s high-mountain vines located in Primera Zona, Agrelo, Luján de Cuyo and Valle de Uco.
91
Catena ‘High Mountain Vines’ Cabernet Sauvignon
Mendoza, Argentina $19.95 (985002) 13.5% alcohol
The price-quality ratio swings wildly in your favour here. Tobacco, dark cherry/berry fruit and grilled savoury herb aromas abound. This gorgeous cab envelops the palate with a plush, full-bodied swath of ripe black plum, juicy black cherry and hints of cassis and mocha. It’s complex, deftly balanced and dense with a lengthy finish enhanced by lip-smacking tang and acidity. Give this a go with grilled gourmet sausage, steak or backyard burgers. (Vic Harradine)
• The following wine is a Vintages Essentials wine always available in select LCBO stores.
91
Kim Crawford Pinot Noir
Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand $22.95 (626390) 13.0% alcohol
A portion of this elegant and easy-drinking pinot noir has been aged in French oak barrels, 10% new. This has resulted in a complex nose with aromas of musty wood, dried red fruit, fresh cherries and spice. It’s medium bodied with good acidity and tannins that start gentle then slowly grow, but never become overwhelming. Red berry flavours linger nicely on the finish. It can be cellared another three years and enjoyed with a beef and mushroom stew. (Dave Isaacs)
89
Louis Jadot ‘Combe Aux Jacques’ Beaujolais-Villages 2008
AOC Beaujolais-Villages $18.95 (365924) 12.5% alcohol
Racy and full of verve, this opens with aromas of mixed spice, red berry fruit and red cherry. The flavours—red pie cherry, cranberry and ripe pomegranate are carried along on an assertive spine of acidity. It’s light to mid weight and well textured with a racy and lip-smacking finish. This is looking to partner with tomato-based food like a grilled chicken breast smothered in tomato mushroom sauce or lasagna. This is a Vintages Essentials product, always available in select stores. (Vic Harradine)
• The following Luigi Bosca Malbec was sourced from estate vineyards with vines 35-years-old at an altitude of 900 to 1100 metres above sea level located in the prestigious wine areas of Luján de Cuyo and Valle de Uco, Mendoza. Fruit was hand harvested with careful selection of clusters and destemming. It was cold macerated at 8 °C then fermented in stainless steel tanks at 28 °C with commercial yeasts. The wine was then transferred to French oak barrels where it matured for 12 months before a light fining and bottling. It’s also a Vintages Essentials wine always found in select LCBO retail wine stores.
92
Luigi Bosca Malbec
Mendoza, Argentina (452672) $18.95 14.5% alcohol
The nose is laden with red currant and dark cherry mingling with sweet tobacco and a dusty mineral note. Rich, ripe fruit flavours coat the palate while mouth-watering freshness and pleasantly chewy tannins create balance. Dry, medium-full bodied, dark fruit and spice flavours linger on the warm, lengthy finish. This would pair well with grilled lamb or Portobello mushroom burgers. (Lisa Isabelle)
• The following Tawse ‘Sketches’ Rosé is an eclectic blend—58% pinot noir/20% cabernet franc/9% gamay noir/8% merlot/5% cabernet sauvignon—sourced from various select vineyards, including estate, in the VQA appellation of Niagara Peninsula. This is a Vintages Essentials wine always available in select LCBO stores.
90
Tawse ‘Sketches’ Rosé
VQA Niagara Peninsula $17.95 (172643) 12.0% alcohol
Aromas leap from the glass of this unique red blend blend—58% pinot noir/20% cabernet franc/9% gamay noir/8% merlot/5% cabernet sauvignon—with watermelon, strawberry and raspberry to the fore. It captures the palate with a surge of blood orange and ruby red grapefruit nicely juxtaposed with notions of ripe juicy black cherry. It’s deftly balanced, medium bodied with silky smooth mouthfeel and plenty of tang and excellent acidity providing plenty of pizzazz on the palate and lip-smacking finish. Pour with a baguette and charcuterie board or east coast Canadian salmon pan-seared in butter. (Vic Harradine)
89
Wakefield ‘Promised Land’ Shiraz
South Australia $14.60 (441543) 14.0% alcohol
This is medium bodied, nicely textured, well balanced with a lengthy finish. Aromas of red and black fruit—cherry and currant—interlace with wisps of earthy notes and a sprig of mixed herbs. A broad tapestry of delectable flavours flow over the palate—juicy black cherry and dark bramble berry mingling with mocha and dried herbs—and persist through the lengthy, dry finish. Delightful sipped on its own, it’s a great pairing with grilled beef, game or fowl from the barbeque. (Vic Harradine)
90
Wakefield ‘Promised Land’ Cabernet Sauvignon
South Australia $14.60 (358838) 14.0% alcohol
Here’s an under-priced cabernet you won’t want to pass up; it punches way above the price. Spice, floral notes and red and black berry fruit aromas abound. It envelops the palate with a well-textured flow of alluring flavours—black juicy cherry and dark bramble berry fruit melding nicely with racy tang in the red cherry/berry spectrum. Medium-plus bodied, ready to drink and creamy smooth, it’s a perfect dance partner with meat-laden pizza, backyard burgers or grilled gourmet sausage. (Vic Harradine)
• The following four red wines receive a $3.00 discount on each bottle purchased May 24 to June 20, 2021.
89
Louis M. Martini Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon
Sonoma County $24.95 (292151) 14.0% alcohol
This approachable, versatile red offers intense aromas of blackberry, cassis, roasted red pepper and cedar. Dry, medium-full bodied, with perceptible tannin, the palate is supple and juicy with ripe dark plums, blackberry coulis, tobacco and a hint of vanilla. Pour alongside peppercorn steak. (Lisa Isabelle)
90
Marchesi de' Frescobaldi ‘Tenuta di Castiglioni’
IGT Toscana, Italy $21.95 (145920) 13.0% alcohol
This red blend—cabernet sauvignon/merlot/cabernet franc/sangiovese—matured 12 months in French oak barriques and a further two months in bottle before release. Alluring aromas of red and black berry fruit mingle with mocha on the nose of this medium-bodied, nicely textured gem. It bathes the palate with a round, smooth stream of red currant and pie cherry interlaced with mixed spice and grilled savory herbs. It finishes dry, lip-smacking good. (Vic Harradine)
93
Zenato Amarone della Valpolicella Classico
DOCG Amarone della Valpolicella, Italy $52.95 (413179) 16.5% alcohol
Wood smoke, cedar and bramble berry fruit aromas provide segue for a rich, luscious, hi-octane, though deftly balanced and simply delicious stream of ripe fruit and soft tang with dried dark fruit, black berry and dark plum front and centre along with support from spice, earthy notes and notions of ripe red cherry. This is medium-plus weight with good texture, structure and a lingering full-of-flavour finish and aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)
90
Zenato ‘Ripasso – Superiore’
DOC Superiore Ripasso, Italy $27.95 (479766) 14.0% alcohol
Leftover grape skins and seeds (pomace) from Amarone and Recioto wine are added to the crushed and fermenting grapes of this wine, with the potential of adding colour, tannin, alcohol, texture, flavour and complexity. This is medium-full bodied, overflowing with rich flavour—sweet dried currant, spiced pie cherry, fig and mocha—sporting a well-balanced long succulent aftertaste. This has the oomph and structure to pair well with grilled steak or the heartiest of stews, like osso buco. It’s a step up in price and quality; you might give it a try. (Vic Harradine)
Cheers and stay safe, Lisa, Louise, Dave, Vic