An explanation of the scoring system and icons is included at the end of this newsletter.
We regret that this is a short newsletter without the usual range of rated wines. Vic is in Australia and has contributed information on d'Arenberg wines and reviews of d'Arenberg and other Australian wines that will appear in future Vintages releases. Rod was unable to attend the Vintages pre-tasting, and has contributed reviews of wines being released this week that he has tasted elsewhere.
We'll be back with a full newsletter in March.
February 3rd, 2007 Vintages Release
This month's release starts with a selection from Argentina and Chile.
Del Fin del Mundo Malbec Reserva
Patagonia $13.95 (6811197)
(Previously reviewed in Winecurrent) This is a terrific bargain, and worth stocking up on if your diet includes a lot of grilled red meat - the staple of the Argentinean diet. The fruit is ripe and concentrated, with black cherry and berry to the fore. It's well balanced with good tannic grip, and the finish is long, long, long. Drink it now and over the next two or three years. (RP)
Finca Flichman Expresiones Reserve 2005
Mendoza $15.75 (507707)
This is a blend of Malbec (60%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (40%) that delivers rich concentrated dark fruit like plum and cherry and heaps of spice and cedar notes. Dry and almost full bodied, it has firm, sweet tannins, and pairs beautifully with grilled lamb. (RP)
Viña Tabalí Reserva Shiraz 2004
Limarí Valley $16.75 (662692)
This stylish and delicious Shiraz comes from Chile's northernmost wine region, the desert-like Limarí Valley. Look for concentrated flavours of dark fruit with firm notes of black pepper, spice and roasted coffee bean. It's complex and layered, with a firm, sweet centre, and makes an excellent partner to grilled red meats. (RP)
Santa Rita Medalla Real Cabernet Sauvignon 2003
Maipo Valley $19.75 (275594)
This is a well-made Cabernet Sauvignon that fits easily into Santa Rita's excellent "Medalla Real" line. It has everything you look for in a well-constructed Cabernet: concentrated fruit, good complexity and focus, fine balance and a long finish. Overall it's stylish and it pairs deliciously with grilled red meats. (RP)
Bonterra Syrah 2003
Mendocino County $19.75 (573709)
(Previously reviewed in Winecurrent) A syrah made in a complex and almost meaty style, with rich red and dark fruit (cherry dominant) and notes of spice and cherry. It's very dry (astringent) with an attractive texture, with soft, ripe tannins. Quite delicious and a good buy. Serve it with lamb chops, grilled medium-rare. (RP)
I thought it might be interesting for winecurrent subscribers to have a lexicon of the ingenious names that Chief winemaker, Chester d'Arenberg Osborn, has created for his wines. He was kind enough to supply this as I tasted the wines at their Mclaren Vale winery. Reviews of each of these Upstream and Vintages Essentials wines follow.
The Stump Jump - The name "Stump Jump" doesn't relate to the English game of cricket (jumping over the stumps at the end of the game), nor the breeding of livestock held in the stumps, but relates to the significant South Australian invention - the Stump Jump plough. The plough soon became a worldwide implement for ploughing fields because of its ability to ride over stumps and gnarled "mallee" Eucalypt roots and snags, saving valuable time and resources by not stopping the draught horse.
The Dry Dam - The name for this wine stems back to 1992 when the neighbours built a dam in which no water lay, as it was such a dry winter. The next year it rained, but the dam was jinxed and didn't hold water. We still hold the blame. Some people mix the name around, calling the wine "The Dam Dry Riesling", which in some years is truer than others.
The Broken Fishplate - The name Broken Fish Plate comes from the small block of Sauvignon Blanc planted in a tight vee of the gully in front of the d'Arry's Verandah restaurant. The vine rows follow the contour of the land, eventually meeting, forming a sharp bend in the row. Every time the grape harvester goes around this bend, the fishplates that straddle the vines and posts break off, hence "the broken fishplate". Not even a chilled glass of fine Sauvignon Blanc will placate a driver with a broken Fishplate.
The Hermit Crab - A new wine for d'Arenberg, gathering its name from the association with the Northern Rhône wine region of France. Marsanne is the major white grape of Hermitage, and it's also the main grape in the blend. Hermitage directly translated means "House of the Hermit". Many of McLaren Vale's vineyards are on the free-draining soils underlain with limestone, formed by the calcareous remains of the local marine fauna. One such creature is the Hermit Crab. The Osborn family thought the name appropriate for this, McLaren Vale's first-ever Marsanne Viognier blend.
The Money Spider - The name Money Spider originated in 2000, our first small crop of Roussanne was harvested and held in a shed for an hour while the crusher was being prepared. Meanwhile, a sea of tiny "Money Spider" (Erigoninae) crawled to the top of the load and started furiously spinning a cover of webs. Being slightly superstitious we didn't want to harm them as they are considered a good luck charm. We removed the Money Spiders as best we could and then crushed the grapes. Things went well over the next few weeks until a cellar hand accidentally..., well that's another story but subsequently the curse prevailed.
The Last Ditch - Shiraz, Grenache and Mourvèdre have been the backbone of d'Arenberg's vineyards since the 1880s. These three are also the traditional red wine mainstays of the Rhône Valley in France, while the best whites are made from the trio of Viognier, Marsanne and Roussanne. In 1995, Chester reassessed a small block of Doradillo - an uninteresting, unripening sherry grape variety and decided to re-plant with Viognier. This site is right down the bottom of the gully in a big ditch, hence the name.
The High Trellis - This wine is named the High Trellis Cabernet Sauvignon in respect of one of the original blocks of vines on the d'Arenberg property. It was bought by Joseph Osborn in 1912. The standard trellised vines (about 18 inches off the ground) were re-trellised in the 1920's to a height of about 36 inches. This is now probably the standard height but back then this was considered high. Gradually, the white ants ate the posts and the rust attacked until no trellis remained. In the mid-1980 the trellis was rebuilt back to the standard height and the block has retained its name "The High Trellis".
The Custodian - For a long time, d'Arenberg has been considered a custodian (the keeper) of Grenache, with our constant allegiance to this variety. The name has nothing to do with the janitors as many in the USA think. The Grenache vines have been on the property as long as if not longer than any other variety. d'Arenberg makes eight wines with a large percentage of Grenache, this being the first 100% Grenache, commenced with in 1994. It was only fitting that the name "Custodian" was employed for this wine.
d'Arry's Original - We have been making this wine for over four decades. Up until 1992, the wine was called d'Arry's Burgundy. For obvious reasons, we changed the name to honour the creator of the wine, namely d'Arry. d'Arry is short for d'Arenberg - d'Arry's middle name, and his mother's maiden name. The d'Arry's original has enjoyed huge success at shows through the years and has been fundamental to the reputation of d'Arenberg.
The Galvo Garage - the name of this wine stems from it being a Bordeaux blend, and that the term "garagists' is used to describe the producers in Bordeaux making great wines in their garage outside of the "Appellation Contrôlée" system. The d'Arenberg wines are all made in a small-batch processing, very hands-on way (or feet as the reds are foot-trod) as the "garagists" do. The d'Arenberg reds are all made in the old galvanised garage/shed/winery, hence "Galvo".
The Twentyeight Road - d'Arenberg's vineyards are bordered by Seaview Road to the North, Chalk Hill Road to the South, Coppermine Road to the West and Twentyeight Road to the East. The somewhat crooked dirt track named The Twentyeight Road connects Seaview Road with Chalk Hill Road. d'Arenberg's southern vineyard boundary is a creek located in the 128th sector and this is where d'Arenberg's 3.6 acre Mourvèdre plot is located.
The Cadenzia - the inspiration behind this name came from the word "Cadenza" which is an impassioned improvisation played by a virtuoso soloist toward the end of a musical performance. Cadenzia is made in celebration of the winemaker's opportunity, after vintage, to blend an exceptional McLaren Vale wine based on the Grenache variety. 11 McLaren Vale wineries have released a Cadenzia.
d'Arenberg d'Arry's Original 2004
Mclaren Vale $19.95 (942904)
Suspect this under $20.00 price point is a marketing decision as it offers a quality wine that should sell for much, much more. Almost hedonistic, it rushes over the palate and the senses with perfumed aromas and flavours of sweet cassis, black licorice and a gusher of black juicy berry fruit. It is held far from jammy with ripe silky tannins and moderating acidity. Earned its final half star on the quality to price balance that is swung crazily in your favour. Buy a case before they come to their dollars and senses. (VH)
Skillogalee Shiraz 2003
Clare Valley $20.95
This was entirely hand harvested from low yields - 1.6 tons/acre - from estate-owned unirrigated vines. The basket-pressed fruit showcases black pepper and ripe Bing cherry aromas plus an elegant layering of flavours with currant, licorice, mint and black currant discernible. The finish is lengthy and luxurious complemented by ripe tannins and a plush texture. The 24 months of oak is unobtrusive and brilliantly integrated. Gorgeous now to 2014, on its own or with rack of lamb. (VH)
d'Arenberg The Dry Dam Riesling 2006
McLaren Vale $16.95 (942953)
Mineral and lime sherbet aromas waft off the glass of this medium-bodied crisp white. Fruit is hand-picked, gently basket-pressed and only the free run juice is used. Wonderful zippy and zesty on the palate, expect citrus and green apple fruit, it also offers surprisingly smooth, almost creamy, texture. Good to go now and for the next 12 months alongside smoked salmon, a slice of red onion and caper berries. (VH)
d'Arenberg The High Trellis Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
McLaren Vale $20.95 (943456)
This gutsy red will separate the women from the girls with its good grip (code for noticeable tannins), super ripe fruit and zesty characteristics that attack the palate. Taut and tight at present, it needs cellaring time to open up. If you can't wait, decant for 3 or 4 hours and serve alongside grilled rare red meat. Expect leafy characteristics cloaked with Bing cherry, cassis and toasty flavours from the lifted nose to the lengthy finish. Those with patience will simply beam from 2012 to 2020 at how smart they were to purchase this at a fraction the price you will pay for a wine of this quality then. (VH)
Richard Hamilton Gumprs' Shiraz 2005
McLaren Vale $21.95 (600122)
Spiced plum and savoury notes waft from the glass of this medium to full-bodied Shiraz. It exhibits the complex and tangy characteristics of McLaren Vale. Round and plush layers of currant and black cherry fruit abound on the palate along with ripe tannins and moderating tang. The lengthy finish sports a generous spoonful of warm kirsch - a delicious drop. Drink now to 2012. (VH)
d'Arenberg The Broken Fishplate Sauvignon Blanc 2006
Adelaide Hills $16.95
Subdued, but discernible aromatics of herbaceous nettles and passion fruit form the lifted nose of this medium-framed white from the cooler Adelaide Hills. The fabulous texture is achieved via barrel fermentation and the lemon-lime, passion fruit and savoury notes derive from fruit picked at the peak of perfection. This deserves a mesculan salad under heaps of grilled goat cheese and light vinaigrette. (VH)
2005 d'Arenberg The Hermit Crab Viognier / Marsanne 2005
Mclaren Vale $16.95 (662775)
Expect lime leaf, savoury herb and spice box off the nose with a hint of honeycomb. The flavour profile is exotic and beguiling with almond, garrigue and nectarine to the fore. The finish is lengthy and luxurious, a serious full-flavoured, well-balanced blend - 63% Viognier, 38% Marsanne- for which a hermit would gladly shell out for a bottle to go with lobster. (VH)
d'Arenberg The Last Ditch Viognier 2006
McLaren Vale/Adelaide Hills $18.95
Fermented and aged in old French and American oak barriques, you will detect none in the flavours due to the barrel age, but it certainly has lifted the fruit characteristics and contributed to the plush oily texture. Superb nectarine and sweet ripe peach flavours abound while the subtle honey notes are a portend of the rewards to be reaped from careful cellaring. Good to go now with creamy seafood pasta, or keep 7 or 8 years for a truly unique experience. (VH)
d'Arenberg The Custodian Grenache 2004
McLaren Vale $20.95 (713040)
Montmorency cherry and red currant on the nose, the palate is gloriously rich with gobs of clean refreshing red berry fruit. It is round, warm (14.5% alcohol) and offers impeccable balance and structure. It finishes off in a blaze of lingering cassis, licorice and spice box flavours. The price to quality ratio is skewed heavily in your favour. Stock up, Mate. (VH)
d'Arenberg The Galvo Garage 2003
McLaren Vale $27.95 (907584)
A Cabernet Sauvignon-predominant Bordeaux blend of mammoth proportions that begins with a perfumed nose of minty and spiced black plum aromas. Vanilla, toasty notes and black, juicy, ripe berry fruit characteristics wash over the palate in delectable waves before you realize the oak has been perfectly integrated, the tang in perfect balance and the lengthy fruit-forward finish is a seamless replay of all the previous flavours. Ripe, rich and rewarding. (VH)
d'Arenberg The Twentyeight Road Mourvèdre 2004
McLaren Vale/Langhorne Creek $29.95 .
My first tasting of this unique red, and hopefully not my last. Gutsy and grainy, it offers ladles of brambleberry, smoked meat and spice box flavours that are nothing short of glorious. The palate is also treated to slowly developing flavours of roasted nuts, earthy mushroom and hints of creosote. It finishes with a healthy spoonful of tangy zest to keep it honest, far from jammy and interesting. I reckon this will be just as good, or better, in 2012. (VH)
d'Arenberg The Cadenzia 2004
McLaren Vale $24.95
I'd make book and lay odds on Chester d'Arenberg Osborn, chief winemaker at d'Arenberg, against Dom Perignon for the title of world's best wine blender. Meticulous fruit selection, low yields, foot trod fruit, free run juice and no filter or fining are only the tip of the d'Arenberg. Hundreds of separately fermented and barrelled fruit are assiduously-selected to make up his wine. The result here in this GSM? A dark violet and vibrant colour, silky tannins and hugely concentrated and rich, dark berry fruit coalescing with tangy zest, licorice and spicy notes. The finish adds on coatings of raisiny and crushed herb notes. Superb. (VH)
d'Arenberg The Stump Jump 2006
McLaren Vale $13.95 (922203)
This is a top drop from down under at a very affordable price point. The eclectic blend includes 63% Riesling, 16% Sauvignon Blanc, 13% Roussanne and 7% Marsanne. Clean and refreshing, it has seen no oak. Expect floral and slate notes off the warm nose and gorgeous flavours - peach, green apple, fig and hints of mint - and a plush texture. It has beautiful balance and a lengthy citrussy finish. Just the ticket for warm days and lemon veal. (VH)
d'Arenberg The Money Spider Roussanne 2006
McLaren Vale $19.95 (656710)
Citrus and stone fruit aromas drift from the glass of this medium-bodied gem. Green tea, herbs and white peach flavours coat the palate while the moderating zest provides depth and balance. All lovers of wine need to experience this as it is definitely not run-of-the-mill. The round and warm finish layers on honey and melon. Stunning on its own or paired with salt and pepper calamari, now to 2012. (VH)
Cheers,
Rod and Vic
We use the following symbols when rating wines:
| Wines achieving nirvana |
| | Wines of excellence |
 | Wines well worth trying |
 | Wines below average, but drinkable |
 | Wines better avoided, unless desperate |
 | Represents a half star |
 | We both agree —a brilliant wine! |
| Drink now and over the next 2 years |
| Drink now and over the next 5 years |
| Place in cellar |