June 21, 2020 Newsletter
Newsletter Highlights:
- Exceptional-value wine
– 16 of the 55 wines in this newsletter meet strict quality-price guidelines. The wines range from $14.95 to $18.95 and are easily identified throughout the newsletter via the value checkmark above. - June 13 and June 27th Vintages Releases – are both in the following newsletter
- LCBO Limited Time Offers - with one dollar to five dollars off each bottle of wine purchased June 22 to July 19 are found at the end of the newsletter. A great way to stock up and save money. There are 10 white and six red wines to choose from.
- Ontario wineries – Henry of Pelham and the Speck Brothers have a number of wines reviewed, as do Redstone Winery and Tawse Winery throughout the newsletter. Their wines are available through the LCBO and/or for delivery to your home, office or restaurant direct from the winery.
- Louise Loves – 2014 River’s Edge ‘Elkton Cuvée’ Pinot Noir earned 91 points @ $19.95 found under Oregon: Red Wine (June 27 Release); 2019 Tawse ‘Lawrie Vineyard’ Pinot Gris earned 93 points @ $26.95 found under New in Ontario Wineries; 2019 Redstone Pinot Gris earned 91 points @ $25.15 found under New in Ontario Wineries.
- Vic Picks - 2015 Henry of Pelham ‘Estate’ Cabernet-Merlot earned 92 points @ $24.95 found under Ontario: Red Wine (June 13 Release); 2012 Bodegas Lan ‘Reserva’ earned 92 points @ $24.95 found under Spain: Red Wine (June 13 Release); 2018 Gérard Bertrand ‘Réserve Spéciale’ Viognier earned 91 points @ $14.95 found under Vintages Release: July 25, 2020.
Vintages Release: June 13, 2020
Sparkling Wine
• The following 2018 Medici ‘Ermete & Figlio - Arte E Concerto’ Lambrusco is light on its feet and light on the bubbles; it’s classified as, ‘Vino Frizzante’ aka ‘spritzy’, fewer bubbles than a ‘sparkling wine’. This is sourced from an ancient red varietal, ‘lambrusco salamino’.
90
Medici ‘Ermete & Figlio - Arte E Concerto’ Lambrusco 2018
DOC Reggiano Lambrusco, Emilia-Romagno, Italy $19.95 (208967) 11.5% alcohol
This is quite good value and very harmonious. Aromas of red and black cherry/berry fruit introduce a spritzy stream of red raspberry, bramble berry jelly and hints of freshly picked wild strawberries. It’s deftly balanced with oodles of tang and pizzazz from cork pop to last drop. It finishes with a mouth-watering flourish. Pour with a baguette and charcuterie board or pasta with Bolognese sauce. (Vic Harradine)
91
Segura Viudas ‘Heredad - Reserva’ Brut Cava Non-Vintage
DO Cava, Spain $32.95 (558825) 12.0% alcohol
Golden, with a green hue, this limited-production Cava, a blend of first pressing of estate-grown macabeo and parellada, displays depth and lovely balance. Intense aromas of pear, citrus and toasted butter pastry entice. Dry, bright and fresh, it has refined creamy mousse and lively, crisp texture. Rich flavours of Bosc pear and lemon-lime wash across the palate lingering on a clean, persistent finish. A sparkling wine of presence and weight, it presents well as a gift or served at any holiday gathering. (Susan Desjardins)
Ontario: White Wine
• The following 2018 Henry of Pelham ‘Speck Family Reserve’ Riesling was sourced from estate, sustainably grown vines of the iconic Weiss 21b clone that were thirty-six years old when fruit for this wine was picked. Grapes were hand harvested yielding 3.5 tonnes per acre then gently destemmed and whole-berry pressed followed by fermentation in stainless steel tank with a portion in large, 3000 L, neutral-oak foudres.
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Henry of Pelham ‘Speck Family Reserve’ Riesling 2018
VQA Short Hills Bench $27.95 (643361) 10.5% alcohol
This is a beautiful Mosel-inspired, off-dry riesling displaying aromas of pear, jasmine tea, wet stone and a subtle whiff of petroleum. It flows easily on the palate with delicious honeyed pear flavour, yellow apple and ginger, joined with the perfect kick of pink grapefruit acidity balancing the dry and mineral finish. This medium-bodied gem calls for gourmet sushi platter or Vietnamese caramelised pork. (Louise Boutin)
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Redstone Chardonnay 2016
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (398966) 13.0% alcohol
This wine is light gold in appearance with a reserved nose containing floral notes and hints of minerality. It’s medium bodied on the palate with a dry and tart acidity delivering flavours of lime and mineral. This is well paired with poached sole drizzled with lemon juice. (Dave Isaacs)
Ontario: Red Wine
92
Henry of Pelham ‘Estate’ Cabernet-Merlot 2015
VQA Short Hills Bench $24.95 (395855) 13.5% alcohol
Lifted, lively aromas of cedar, piquant spice and juicy black plum introduce a spirited wash of pie cherry and passionfruit juxtaposed nicely with cassis and dark berry fruit adorned with sharp spice, dark bittersweet chocolate and wisps of ripe, fine-grained tannin. This is structured and balanced with purity of fruit and lots of pizzazz. It’s medium-plus weight with good mouthfeel and a long finish showcasing palate replays. Aerate/decant for a couple of hours pouring with a thick cut of prime beef grilled rare to medium rare. (Vic Harradine)
France: Rosé wine
90
AIX ‘Saint Aix’ Rosé 2019
AOP Coteaux d’Aix en Provence, France $24.95 (451906) 13.0% alcohol
This is a pretty, pastel-salmon hued blend of grenache, syrah and cinsault with a splash of carignan, offering fresh aromas of nectarine, watermelon and strawberry complemented with white flower notes. It’s crisp on the palate with peach flavours, zesty pink grapefruit, a hint of ginger and a touch of balancing almond bitterness trailing in the clean finish and aftertaste. This is a delicious versatile rosé with enough body to pair with sushi or grilled salmon but also enjoyable with mixed salted nuts or simply on its own. (Louise Boutin)
France: Red Wine
• The following 2016 Château Hauchat Fronsac was sourced from 100% merlot from premium vineyards—situated just west of Pomerol and St. Émilion—and produced by a family of eighth-generation, regional winemakers. The wine was matured 15 months in barrels—1/3rd new/1/3rd used one previous year/1/3rd used two previous years.
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Château Hauchat Fronsac 2016
AOC Fronsac, France $17.95 (123489) 14.0% alcohol
Charred toast, cedar and dark bramble berry fruit aromas provide segue for a medium-weight, balanced, smooth and creamy stream of crunchy red fruit—cherry, currant and cranberry—mingling with savory herbs and piquant spice. It finishes with racy acidity and red fruit replays on the juicy, lip-smacking finish and aftertaste. This marries well with pasta puttanesca. (Vic Harradine)
• The following 2016 Gérard Bertrand ‘La Clape – Grand Terroir’ is a lovely blend of syrah, carignan and mourvèdre. Fruit was sourced from vineyards at 200m sitting on a limestone bench overlooking the Mediterranean where winemaking took hold thousands of years ago.
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Gérard Bertrand ‘La Clape – Grand Terroir’ 2016
AOP La Clape, France $19.95 (370262) 13.5% alcohol
A fresh and lively nose of red and black cherry/berry fruit and local herb aromas precede a delightful medium-plus bodied well-textured surge of palate-drenching flavour—ripe red cherry and dark bramble berry interlaced with piquant spice and espresso roast. It’s good value, nicely balanced and sports a lengthy lip-smacking finish. Pour alongside grilled gourmet sausage or beer-can, crispy-skin chicken after a two-hour aeration/decant. There’s good value here. (Vic Harradine)
Spain: Red Wine
92
Bodegas Lan ‘Reserva’ 2012
Rioja $24.95 (42929) 13.5% alcohol
This is a delightful blend—92% tempranillo/8% mazuelo—that’s inky black and opaque in the glass. It bathes the palate with a harmonious river of pure ambrosia with palate flavours of black licorice, mocha and ripe bramble berry interwoven with hints of dark Bing cherry and savoury bits. It’s medium-plus bodied with deft balance and plenty of complexity, structure and aplomb. There’s good texture with a lengthy, delectable finish and aftertaste. The tannins are soft, the flavours are balanced, the wine is delicious. Good to go now with grilled rack of lamb. (Vic Harradine)
LCBO Flagship Stores exclusive
93
Culmina Estates ‘Hypothesis’ 2014
VQA Golden Mile Bench, Okanagan Valley $46.00 (414243) 14.0% alcohol
This iconic Bordeaux-blend of 45% cabernet sauvignon, 33% merlot, 22% cabernet franc balances concentrated dark fruit aromas and flavours with a refined structure. The nose unfolds with aromas of blackberry, cassis and plum compote doused with notions of pipe tobacco, campfire smoke, cedar and vanilla. A wash of ripe dark fruit floods the palate underscored with tangy tart cherry, grilled green pepper and a mineral note. It’s dry, medium-full bodied, with marked acidity and firm, gripping tannins contributing to the ample mouthfeel and extending into the generous finish. It’s cellar worthy—patience will be handsomely rewarded—or decant four-plus hours before service. (Lisa Isabelle)
Vintages Release: June 27, 2020
Ontario: Icewine
91
Lakeview Cellars Vidal Icewine 2015
VQA Ontario $21.95 (522672) 200 mL 12.0% alcohol
This lighter-styled beauty keeps the final sip as fresh and lively as the first—it’s not cloying or over the top and that’s not a common occurrence for vidal icewine. A nicely balanced flow of palate-bathing apricot jam and white nectarine meet nirvana with a healthy dollop of lemon zest and racy blood orange on the palate and persists through the lingering finish and aftertaste. This pairs particularly well with Stilton on water crackers or pan-seared foie gras. (Vic Harradine)
Champagne
92
Drappier ‘Nature – Pinot Noir – Zero Dosage’ Brut Non-Vintage
AOC Champagne $62.95 (179275) 12.5% alcohol
Pleasant aromas of floral notes, apple and baking brioche precede frothy mousse of fine-bead bubbles winding their way to the top of the glass. It’s lively and fresh on the palate with flavours of bracing, tang-laden citrus and pleasant minerality interlaced with notions of honeyed pit fruit. This is 100% pinot noir, hand-harvested, undergoing natural malolactic conversion before spending a minimum of 30 months in bottle on its lees before disgorgement and no sugar was added. The bottle these tasting notes and rating are based on was disgorged November 2018. (Vic Harradine)
Sparkling Wine
92
Chateau des Charmes Sparkling Wine ‘Méthode Traditionelle’ Non-Vintage
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $25.95 (224766) 12.5% alcohol
This provides terrific value; stock up. It offers a lively nose of baking brioche and lemon-lime aromas. A profusion of fine-bead bubbles make a substantial mousse when poured and continue in endless thin streams making their way to the top of your glass. Almost off-dry flavours of apple and pear on the palate are joined by a bracing line of lemon curd and Key lime persisting through the mouth-watering finish—clean, crisp and refreshing. (Vic Harradine)
89
Oyster Bay Sparkling Cuvée Rosé Non-Vintage
New Zealand $22.95 (280172) 12.0% alcohol
This attractive pink-hued sparkler is fashioned from 20% hand-harvested pinot noir and 80% low-yielding chardonnay, fermented in the Charmat, a.k.a. Cuve Close, method. It hustles from the bottle with an energetic mousse and aromas of red berry fruit and spice with hints of brioche. It delivers spirited and lively flavours of citrus and red currant interwoven with sweeter and riper cherry on the lip-smacking aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)
88
Pierre Sparr ‘Brut’ Rosé Crémant d’Alsace Non-Vintage
AOC Alsace $19.95 (39016) 12.0% alcohol
Pale-salmon hued and crafted from pinot noir, the delicate aromas of red field berries come through on the crisp, bright and fresh palate. Just off-dry, light-medium bodied and fruity, it delivers fine mousse and lively acidity. A refreshing and delightful choice. (Susan Desjardins)
Ontario: White Wine
92
Henry of Pelham ‘Speck Family Reserve’ Chardonnay 2018
VQA Short Hills Bench $29.95 (616466) 13.0% alcohol
Alluring aromas of toasty oak and exotic incense abound on the nose. This is a balanced and beautiful mouthful of pure ambrosia that will improve with time. It bathes the palate with elegant and creamy-textured mouthfuls of ripe apple, piquant spice, caramel and racy lemon curd. It’s medium-plus bodied showcasing persistent purity of fruit, excellent oak integration and a monumentally lengthy aftertaste making this a deliriously delightful experience from cork pop to last drop. It’s an inspired pairing with festive turkey and all the fixings or steamed lobster dipped in clarified butter. (Vic Harradine)
Oregon: Red Wine
91
River’s Edge ‘Elkton Cuvée’ Pinot Noir 2014
Elkton, Oregon $19.95 (557850) 14.7% alcohol
Classic pale-garnet shaded, this pinot captivates the senses with its layer of red cherry and gamy aromas on the nose. Crunchy tart cherry and earthiness mingle with baking spice and polished tannin with all in perfect harmony. This is medium bodied with invisible alcohol until it gently warms-up mid-palate and takes you in a comforting savoury and spice long finish reminiscent of ginger snap cookies. This is excellent with tourtière or moussaka. Drink now to 2022. (Louise Boutin)
Argentina: Red Wine
90
Clos de Los Siete 2015
Mendoza $24.95 (622571) 14.5% alcohol
Famous Libournais œnologist, Michel Rolland, is behind this ruby-hued blend—58% malbec/23% merlot/10% cabernet sauvignon/8% syrah/1% petit verdot. The nose is complex with mature aromas of dry cherry, stewed plum, baking spice, licorice, burnt sugar and tobacco. A harmonious cocktail of fleshy sweet and savoury flavours aligned with aromas is showcased with cocoa notes and a perfect balance of fine tannin, acidity and fruitiness on the palate. This is full-bodied with good depth and the promise of longevity. Aerate/decant two hours and pour now to 2025 with pork loin stuffed with dried fruit. (Louise Boutin)
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Château Blaignan 2014
AOC Médoc $27.95 (633032) 12.5% alcohol
The Château Blaignan estate is located in the northern part of the Médoc. On their 97 hectares of vineyards they grow mainly cabernet sauvignon and merlot, and a smaller amount of cabernet franc. This red blend has a brick-red colour and aromas of pencil shavings and dried moss. The tannins are very well integrated giving a pleasant mouthfeel punctuated with flavours of vanilla and cherry. The finish is long with prominent tannins and flavours of vanilla. Enjoy this any time over the next 4 years with aged cheddar cheese. (Dave Isaacs)
Georgia: Red Wine
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United Stars Saperavi 2016
Kindzmarauli, Kakheti $14.95 (466458) 12.5% alcohol
Saperavi is a red grape variety native to Georgia—a rare ‘teinturier’ grape in that the pulp and juice of the grape is red, as well as the skin. In the Kakheti region this grape is often used to make semi-sweet wines; however, this value-priced wine is not one of them. It’s dark-ruby hued and has aromas of black plum, vanilla and strawberries. It’s medium bodied on the palate with ripe, perceptible tannins and gentle acidity. There are juicy, palate flavours of cherry and blueberry. Enjoy with roast chicken breasts served with a balsamic cherry sauce. (Dave Isaacs)
LCBO Flagship Stores Exclusive
93
Ruinart ‘R de Ruinart’ Brut Champagne Non-Vintage
AOC Champagne $88.95 (189878) 12.5% alcohol
Not your average Champagne, and not in your average Champagne bottle—it’s squat, distinctive, attractive. There’s a wonderful mélange of balanced-on-a-pin ripe fruit, acidity and mouthfeel. It opens with a surge of mousse-releasing aromas of floral and nutty notes before bathing the palate with textured, fresh, ripe fruit—pear, apple and nectarine—interwoven with lively, tangy lemon curd. It finishes crisp and refreshing. (Vic Harradine)
Upstream in winecurrent
Vintages Release: July 25, 2020
• Many wine lovers avoid viognier as they aren’t certain how to pronounce it. What a pity; Click here to listen to the correct pronunciation. The 2018 Gérard Bertrand ‘Réserve Spéciale’ Viognier punches well above the price. Pick up a half dozen and spread enjoyment over summer and fall, 2020.
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Gérard Bertrand ‘Réserve Spéciale’ Viognier 2018
IGP Pays d’Oc, France $14.95 13.0% alcohol
Alluring delicate aromas of tropical fruit, honey, floral notes and soft citrus waft easily from the glass. It bathes the palate with a creamy smooth, fully textured wash of mixed spice, orchard fruit and wisps of white grapefruit. This is balanced and charming from cork pop to final drop. It showcases persistent purity of fruit from entry to lingering finish and aftertaste. Incredibly versatile at the table, pour on its own as an aperitif, with poached or grilled seafood, with Salad Niçoise or ham and cheese omelet. (Vic Harradine)
Vintages Release: August 8, 2020
• Certified for Sustainable Winegrowing, the following 2017 Ivory & Burt ‘Old Vine’ Zinfandel was aged in American oak, some new, and sourced from 100% Lodi Zinfandel.
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Lange Twins Family Vineyards and Winery ‘Ivory & Burt - Old Vine’ Zinfandel 2017
Lodi, California $19.95 (479303) 15.0% alcohol
You would never guess that this fruit bomb is 15.0% hi-octane. No sign of heat and all signs of concentrated fruit—plum compote, blackberry, even peach jam—and baking spice make up for a very charming cocktail on the nose. Sweet juicy plum and ripe black cherry flavours mingle with smooth tannin and cinnamon notes in a very easy-drinking fashion. This is a crowd pleaser and it will be perfect alongside a selection of artisan sausages at your next barbecue party. (Louise Boutin)
Vintages Release: August 8, 2020
• The following 2019 Redstone Rosé is a blend of—50% cabernet franc/25% merlot/25% syrah—sourced from estate and other select vineyards across the Niagara Peninsula.
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Redstone Rosé 2019
VQA Niagara Peninsula $18.15 13.0% alcohol
This is the perfect fruity-savoury mix both on the nose and palate with aromas of strawberry, cranberry, red bell pepper and fresh celery leaf followed with palate-bathing tart red fruit flavours, a hint of red bell pepper jelly, topped with a peppery note. This is a refreshing medium-bodied rosé extremely versatile to enjoy alongside grilled steelhead trout burger, red sauce gourmet pizza or simply with mixed olives and feta cheese at the apéro. (Louise Boutin)
Vintages Release: August 8, 2020
• The following 2016 Sartori ‘Superiore’ Valpolicella is a ‘Special Edition’ bottling to mark their 120th anniversary. Hand-picked fruit was sourced from a vineyard at 260m above sea level with vines trained overhead in the traditional ‘pergola Veronese trellis system’—see photo below. The wine underwent malolactic fermentation then 18 months of maturation in small- and medium-size oak casks.
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Sartori ‘Superiore’ Valpolicella 2016
DOC Valpolicella, Italy $24.95 (14584) 13.0% alcohol
Aromas of grilled herbs, exotic spice and cherry/berry fruit herald a gorgeous mouthful of pure ambrosia with a mélange of flavours—black currant, black Bing cherry and black raspberry interwoven with soft ripe tannin and plenty of tang and pizzazz. It’s medium-weight with excellent texture, balanced and beautiful. Pour with spaghetti, pasta sauce and meatballs. (Vic Harradine)
Vintages Release: September 2020
• The following 2016 Henry of Pelham ‘Estate’ Cabernet-Merlot is certified by Sustainable Winemaking Ontario as sustainably grown. Low-yielding, 3 tonnes per acre, hand-harvested fruit was sourced from estate vineyards on the Short Hills Bench, destemmed, sorted and partially fermented in oak tank with extended maceration. It matured in European and American oak, 30% new, then blended in an oak tank with total time in wood reaching ten months.
90
Henry of Pelham ‘Estate’ Cabernet-Merlot 2016
VQA Short Hills Bench $24.95 (395855) 13.5% alcohol
Lots of peppery character on the nose but also ripe dark fruit, cedar and graphite with this Bordeaux-styled red blend. Über silky-textured at first, it morphs into a robust juice of ripe blackberry and cassis flavours joined with savoury dry herbs, bright acidity and black peppercorn notes persisting in the very dry finish. This has cellaring potential with its grippy tannin but will be delicious with rare, grilled flank steak, seasoned with ‘Montreal steak’ spice mix. Aerate/decant two hours. (Louise Boutin)
Vintages Release: TBD 2020
• The following 2019 André Brunel ‘Bécassonne’ Blanc is a blend of 50% roussanne/30% grenache blanc/20% clairette hand-harvested from vines averaging 40 years old. It was vinified in concrete vats at 18C and settled for six months in vats before bottling.
92
André Brunel ‘Bécassonne’ Blanc 2109
AOP Côtes du Rhône, France $17.95 13.5% alcohol
A Rhône blend—50% roussanne/30% grenache blanc/20% clairette—it dishes up lifted aromas of melon, citrus and floral notes. It’s crisp and refreshing from cracking the twist top to last drop with palate flavours galore—honey dew and musk melon interwoven with apricot and grapefruit zest. This is creamy smooth with medium-plus texture and a lengthy finish that replays palate flavours and it’s lip-smacking good. Perfect to sip outdoors on its own or with lighter-styled appetizers. In a word… delicious. (Vic Harradine)
93
Domaine de Vervine Vacqueyras 2016
AOP Vacqueyras, France $26.95 14.5% alcohol
This GSM blend—65% grenache/30% syrah/5% mourvèdre—wafts aromas easily from the glass with bramble berry and black juicy cherry intertwined with cedar and mixed spice. It blankets the palate with a spice-laden and tang-infused mouthful of sweet, ripe mulberry, fig, crème de cassis and black currant jelly. This is medium-full bodied with plenty of mouthfeel and a balanced and beautiful finish and aftertaste. The price-quality balance tips well in your favour. (Vic Harradine)
92
Born To Be Wine Carignan 2019
Product of France $18.95 14.5% alcohol
This is certified organic and 100% carignan. It offers up fruit-forward aromas of bramble berry, blueberry and exotic incense. It envelops the palate with a burly surge of black currant and kirsch liqueur laced with sweet vanilla. This is medium-full bodied with silky-smooth texture and enough tang and acidity for balance. It finishes lengthy, fruity and full of pizzazz. Pour alongside smoked and grilled back ribs slathered with spicy barbeque sauce. (Vic Harradine)
New in Vintages
• The following 2017 Tawse ‘Sketches of Niagara’ Riesling is a Vintages Essentials wine always found in select LCBO stores.
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Tawse ‘Sketches of Niagara’ Riesling 2017
VQA Niagara Peninsula $18.95 (89029) 10.0% alcohol
An assortment of hand-harvested grapes from select vineyards in the Niagara Peninsula fashioned this delectable fruit-forward, off-dry, low-alcohol gem. Fragrant petrol notes introduce ripe nectarine, grapefruit, Asian pear aromas and a whiff of nutmeg. The palate’s mellow with rich, stone fruit flavours flirting with perfectly balanced acidity and minerality. This is perfect to sip on its own or paired with pomelo and spicy crab salad. (Louise Boutin)
• The following 2017 Tawse ‘Sketches of Niagara’ Chardonnay is a Vintages Essentials wine always available in select LCBO stores. It was hand-picked from select vineyards and matured for ten months in French oak.
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Tawse ‘Sketches of Niagara’ Chardonnay 2017
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (89037) 12.5% alcohol
Baking spice, mineral notes and Granny Smith apple aromas waft easily from this well-paced, well-priced chardonnay. A delightful mouthful of tropical fruit, tangy lemon curd and notions of caramel blanket the palate, balanced and beautiful, medium bodied, nicely textured showcasing persistent purity of fruit and no small amount of charm along with a lengthy mouth-watering aftertaste. Pour on its own or alongside roast chicken or roast pork. (Vic Harradine)
• The following 2019 Tawse ‘Sketches’ Rosé is an eclectic blend—58% pinot noir/20% cabernet franc/9% gamay noir/8% merlot/5% cabernet sauvignon—sourced from various select vineyards, including estate, in the VQA appellation of Niagara Peninsula. This is a Vintages Essentials wine always available in select LCBO stores.
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Tawse ‘Sketches’ Rosé 2019
VQA Niagara Peninsula $17.95 (172643) 12.0% alcohol
Aromas leap from the glass of this unique red blend blend—58% pinot noir/20% cabernet franc/9% gamay noir/8% merlot/5% cabernet sauvignon—with watermelon, strawberry and raspberry to the fore. It captures the palate with a surge of blood orange and ruby red grapefruit nicely juxtaposed with notions of ripe juicy black cherry. It’s deftly balanced, medium bodied with silky smooth mouthfeel and plenty of tang and excellent acidity providing plenty of pizzazz on the palate and lip-smacking finish. Pour with a baguette and charcuterie board or east coast Canadian salmon pan-seared in butter. (Vic Harradine)
New online via LCBO Vintages Direct Delivery
• The following 2016 Tawse ‘Quarry Road Vineyard – Estate Bottled’ Chardonnay was sourced from estate, organic and biodynamically farmed fruit from hand-harvested, eighteen-year-old vines then barrel fermented by ambient yeast. It matured 12 months in French oak, 20% new.
91
Tawse ‘Quarry Road Vineyard – Estate Bottled’ Chardonnay 2016
VQA Vinemount Ridge $37.15 (111989) 12.5% alcohol
You will notice depth and balance in this Estate-bottled chardonnay, starting with alluring aromas of ripe peach, yellow plum, anise and buttered toast. Then, a fresh wash of pomelo and white peach flavours coupled with subtle crème brûlée and mineral notes provide layered palate-coating enjoyment and a long and fresh finish with replay of anise notes. This inspires seafood risotto as a wonderful pairing. (Louise Boutin)
New in LCBO Portfolio
• The following Non-Vintage Speck Brothers ‘Lazzara’ Bianco Secco Sparkling Wine was fashioned in the ‘Charmat method’ with the 2nd fermentation occurring in a stainless steel closed tank without malolactic conversion. Julia Lazzara was the Speck brothers’ grandmother, with her ancestors and her husband immigrating to New York. The name of the wine and the label—her husband did fine marble work—pays homage to their Italian ancestors.
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Speck Brothers ‘Lazzara’ Bianco Secco Sparkling Wine Non-Vintage
VQA Ontario $17.95 (167891) 11.5% alcohol
This is as close as it gets to a refreshing, fruity and floral Prosecco, with peach, pear, melon and white flower aromas pushed out of the glass with a nice white froth. It is light and fruity on the palate with flavours of yellow apple and pear as well as yeasty and mineral notes completing the profile. This is a versatile sparkling to enjoy on its own, with potato chips or to pour for a festive brunch. (Louise Boutin)
• The following 2019 Henry of Pelham Pinot Grigio is certified by Sustainable Winemaking Ontario as sustainably grown. Fruit was sourced from the Niagara Peninsula, destemmed and whole-berry pressed without oxygen then cold fermented at 15 – 17C in stainless steel tank.
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Henry of Pelham Pinot Grigio 2019
VQA Niagara Peninsula $14.95 (250217) 12.0% alcohol
This is a refreshing pinot grigio with more interest than too many diluted-tasting patio sipper. Melon, peach and spring blossom aromas introduce a medium-light-bodied flow of ripe orchard fruit flavour and sweet and tangy mandarin, all complemented with a balancing bitter note, leading to a nice, enjoyable finish and aftertaste. This is a no-fuss but well-made summer white to pair with chicken or fish salads or simply enjoy on its own. (Louise Boutin)
• The following 2019 Henry of Pelham Sauvignon Blanc is certified by Sustainable Winemaking Ontario as sustainably grown. Fruit was sourced from the Niagara Peninsula, destemmed and whole-berry pressed without oxygen then cold fermented at 15 – 17C in stainless steel tank.
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Henry of Pelham Sauvignon Blanc 2019
VQA Niagara Peninsula $14.95 (430546) 12.2% alcohol
Bright grassiness, gooseberry and pithy aromas open the door to a fresh wash of sweet honeydew melon and tangy white grapefruit flavours complemented with a hint of white pepper and enjoyable pithy notes trailing in the finish. This is a great value, easy to drink on its own, with goat cheese crostini or lemon butter baked cod loin. (Louise Boutin)
• The following 2019 Speck Brothers ‘Family Tree – The Goat Lady’ Chardonnay was sustainably grown in the VQA geographical-delineated region of Niagara Peninsula. It’s 100% Chardonnay fermented and aged in American oak for 7 months and underwent partial malolactic fermentation. In the property adjacent to where the Speck brothers lived as children, a lady named Marion kept goats. She also put out warm bowls of goat milk for the for the boys’ pet dog, Boswell. It turned out Boswell was a quick study and soon moved in with Marion.
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Speck Brothers ‘Family Tree – The Goat Lady’ Chardonnay 2019
VQA Niagara Peninsula $16.95 (16792) 13.0% alcohol
Aromas of green apple and lemon-lime citrus provide segue to a racy stream of Key lime and grapefruit streaking across the palate with nerve, verve and plenty of pizzazz. It’s medium-bodied with good mouthfeel and a lingering finish that layers on palate replays decorated with notions of caramel and tropical fruit. This is very good value. Pour alongside pan-seared or grilled fish and seafood under a generous squeeze of fresh lemon. (Vic Harradine)
• The following 2019 Speck Brothers ‘Family Tree – The Bootlegger’ Baco Noir was sustainably grown and 20% barrel aged in American oak and 80% in stainless steel tanks. During Prohibition—arguably between 1916 and 1927 in Ontario—light airplanes would land by estate vineyards to pick up wine and spirits that had been produced in nearby barns.
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Speck Brothers ‘Family Tree – The Bootlegger’ Baco Noir 2019
VQA Niagara Peninsula $17.95 (16791) 13.0% alcohol
Gamy and red berry aromas abound on the nose. The palate’s treated to a sweet ripe gusher of palate flavours with kirsch liqueur, cassis, black currant jam and sweet vanilla to the fore. It’s medium-plus bodied and generously textured with palate replays of flavours persisting through the lengthy finish and aftertaste. Give this a go with pulled pork with chutney or barbecue sauce or smoked and grilled ribs slathered with spicy barbecue sauce. (Vic Harradine)
New in Ontario Wineries
• Order the following 2018 Speck Brothers ‘Family Tree – The Padré’ Cabernet-Merlot online from Henry of Pelham for delivery to your home, office or restaurant.
• The following sustainably grown 2018 Speck Brothers ‘Family Tree – The Padré’ Cabernet-Merlot is a cabernet franc/cabernet sauvignon/merlot blend that is named in honour of the Speck brothers father who was a Padré before starting his winery with his three sons. The wine has been matured for a period of 16 months in 60% French and 40% American oak barrels and a mixture of new and pre-loved oak.
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Speck Brothers ‘Family Tree – The Padré’ Cabernet-Merlot 2018
VQA Niagara Peninsula $21.95 13.0% alcohol
Heavenly aromas rise from the glass—exotic incense, red and black cherry berry fruit, black licorice and wisps of pipe tobacco galore. It’s sourced from the holy trinity of the Bordeaux blend—cabernet franc/cabernet sauvignon/merlot. It rolls over the palate balanced on a pin with a mouthful of flavour—ripe black currant and raspberry robed in excellent tang and acidity and wisps of dark chocolate. It’s medium-weight and smooth as silk throughout the tasting experience and it’s so much more than the psalm of its parts. Pick up a case and rejoice over the next 12 months or so. (Vic Harradine)
• The following wines from Tawse Winery and Redstone can be purchased by the bottle(s) case (s) for home, office or restaurant delivery online at Tawse Winery by Email This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. by phone +1 905 562 9500 or for pick up by bottle(s) or case(s) directly at the winery 3955 Cherry Ave, Vineland ON. Here’s a map, or online at Redstone Wines.
• Fruit for the following 2017 Tawse ‘Quarry Road Vineyard’ Pinot Noir was hand-picked and biodynamically farmed. The wine matured 12 months in French oak, 20% new.
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Tawse ‘Quarry Road Vineyard – Estate Grown’ Pinot Noir 2017
VQA Vinemount Ridge $44.95 12.5% alcohol
This bright medium-garnet-shaded pinot opens the door with profound aromas—dry cherry, ginger snap cookies, dry wild mushroom and herbal notes— leaping from the glass with vigorous swirling. A silky-textured flow of juicy red fruit softly touches the tongue before showing loads of tartness and piquant peppery flavours, along with fine-grained ripe tannin. This is an unexpected sensory experience keeping you coming back for more. This lovely medium-bodied pinot is perfect for duck confit. (Louise Boutin)
• The following 2019 Tawse ‘Lawrie Vineyard’ Pinot Gris was sourced from fruit Tawse purchased in the VQA sub-appellation of Niagara-on-the-Lake.
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Tawse ‘Lawrie Vineyard’ Pinot Gris 2019
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $26.95 13.0% alcohol
This is a tropical and floral beauty on the nose—pineapple, guava, honeysuckle, rose water—with a back drop of mineral notes. This is medium-bodied with a nice roundness on the palate but absolutely no residual sugar, leaving all the stage to cantaloupe and pineapple flavours, bright citrus acidity, energetic minerality and a ginger hint emerging in the long delectable finish. This gem will shine alongside steamed mussel or a seared red tuna salad with an Asian flair. (Louise Boutin)
• Fruit for the following 2019 Redstone Pinot Gris was sourced from the estate Redstone Vineyard and other select vineyards in the VQA region of Niagara Peninsula.
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Redstone Pinot Gris 2019
VQA Niagara Peninsula $25.15 13.0% alcohol
A pretty blush tinge introduces a burst of nectarine and ripe pear aromas along with orange blossom and mineral notes. While round on the palate, this is crafted in a dry fashion with delicious yellow fruit flavours, bright pink grapefruit acidity and a lovely saline note making its way in the crisp finish, encouraging another sip. This is a perfect partner to cream cheese toasted-bagel, garnished with a generous portion of smoke salmon and capers. (Louise Boutin)
• The following 2019 Redstone Sauvignon Blanc was sourced partially from the estate-owned Limestone Ridge Vineyard along with select other sites in the Niagara Peninsula. It saw not a splinter of oak, only stainless steel tank.
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Redstone Sauvignon Blanc 2019
VQA Niagara Peninsula $22.15 12.5% alcohol
Aromas of lemon-lime, floral notes and notions of minerality provide segue to a medium-bodied, nicely textured stream of refreshing palate flavours with Key lime, lemon pie filling and grapefruit pith to the fore. It finishes crisp and clean with palate replays through the lingering, lip-smacking aftertaste. Give this a go with myriad fish and seafood, grilled, baked or poached. (Vic Harradine)
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Redstone Gewürztraminer 2019
VQA Niagara Peninsula $22.15 11.5% alcohol
Lifted aromas of piquant spice, rosewater and ripe apricot bound. A gusher of Turkish delight confectionary, tinned peaches and apricots in sweet syrup and lemon pastille palate flavours capture your organoleptic receptors. It’s medium bodied and medium sweet with generous mouthfeel and a palate-saving hit of almost balancing lemon citrus on the finish and aftertaste. Pour with spicy tandoori chicken or fruit flan. (Vic Harradine)
• The following 2017 Tawse ‘Tintern Road Vineyard – Estate Bottled’ Pinot Noir was sourced from seven-year-old vines that have been biodynamically farmed after a world-renowned soil expert suggested planting Pinot Noir in this previously unplanted, raw soil—the rest, as they say, is history. The wine matured for 12 months in French oak before bottling.
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Tawse ‘Tintern Road Vineyard – Estate Bottled’ Pinot Noir 2017
VQA Vinemount Ridge $44.95 (307686) 12.5% alcohol
Floral and red berry fruit intertwine with aromas of beetroot and earthy/mineral notes on the nose. It bathes the palate with a wash of red currant tang, racy cranberry and passionfruit framed by excellent acidity and underpinned with soft, ripe tannin and a lingering sweet-tinged finish of spicy red bell pepper jelly. This showcases elegance and charm along with the perfect accompaniment for coq au vin or smoked duck breasts. (Vic Harradine)
LCBO ‘Limited Time Offers’ – June 22 to July 19, 2020
Regardless of the vintage you purchase from the LCBO, you’ll receive the discount shown for each bottle of wine reviewed below that’s purchased June 22 to July 19, 2020.
White Wine
• The following wines receive a $2.00 discount on each bottle purchased June 22 to July 19, 2020.
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Cave Spring Cellars ‘Estate’ Riesling
VQA Beamsville Bench $19.75 (286377) 12.0 % alcohol
This value-packed, single-vineyard riesling, produced with fruit from vines averaging 20 years of age, opens with expressive notes of apple, pear, peach and lemon-lime, underscored by hints of petrol and a mineral note. Dry, medium bodied, crisp yet weighty in texture, citrus flavours lead the charge across the palate followed by yellow apple and a wet mineral note which lasts into the long, flavourful finish. Enjoy with apple stuffed roast pork. (Lisa Isabelle)
85
G. Marquis ‘The Silver Line’ Chardonnay
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $17.95 (258681) 13.0% alcohol
Aromas of toasty oak, poached pear and tropical fruit dominate the nose. A medium-bodied stream of flavour washes over the palate with green apple, honeyed pear and lemongrass interwoven with caramel and oaky notes, all replaying on the finish and aftertaste. It hasn’t yet matured and melded its disparate parts, another year in bottle will be handsomely rewarded. (Vic Harradine)
91
Ghost Pines ‘Winemaker’s Blend’ Chardonnay
Monterey/Napa/Sonoma Counties $21.95 (308122) 13.8% alcohol
Multi-County fruit was whole-bunch pressed and fermented in stainless steel before settling and aged sur lie in French and American oak. A gorgeous array of baking spice, vanilla and orchard fruit aromas set the table for a smorgasbord of flavours—tropical fruit, sweet, ripe pear and hints of citrus and spice. It’s mid-weight and good value with generous texture, depth and complexity. It finishes balanced and mouth-watering. Pour with roast chicken, pork or veal. (Vic Harradine)
88
Kendall-Jackson ‘Vintner's Reserve’ Chardonnay
California $21.95 (369686) 13.5% alcohol
Aromas of butter cream and toasted oak meld with hints of tropical fruit. It is medium-to-full bodied on the palate, with a refreshing acidity. Flavours of oak and pineapple are carried through the finish, where they are joined with a hint of grapefruit. This is a nice match for baked cod. (Dave Isaacs)
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Malivoire ‘Estate Grown’ Chardonnay
VQA Beamsville Bench $19.95 (573147) 12.5% alcohol
A shy nose of Granny Smith apple and hints of baking spice aromas provide segue to a delightful array of deftly balanced palate flavours with honey-drizzled apple interwoven with lemon curd and sweet Bosc pear that persists throughout. This is medium weight, nicely textured and well balanced with a good seam of tang, persistent purity of fruit, plenty of charm and a delightfully lingering finish. It also offers a price-quality ratio tipped well in your favour. (Vic Harradine)
90
Robert Oatley ‘Signature Series’ Chardonnay
Margaret River, Western Australia $19.95 (350900) 12.5% alcohol
Powerful aromas of toasty oak and spice on the nose precede a balanced and beautiful flow of sweet-tinged Golden Delicious apple, ripe pear and Mirabelle plum nicely juxtaposed with a glorious rush of racy lemon acidity on the back palate and persisting through the long finish—clean, crisp and refreshing. This is medium-full bodied with good texture and delivers a price-quality balance tipped well in your favour. Pour with roast bird and all the extras. (Vic Harradine)
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Tawse ‘Sketches of Niagara’ Chardonnay
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (89037) 13.0% alcohol
High-toned aromas of nutmeg and ginger are interwoven with ripe apple and pear. Aromas replay on the palate with the addition of oaky bits and piquant spice. This was barrel fermented by native yeasts then barrel matured, 20% new, for 12 months. It’s medium-plus weight with smooth texture and a long, long finish and aftertaste—crisp and mouth-watering. Give this a go with roast chicken or a pork roast. (Vic Harradine)
• The following wines receive a $3.00 discount on the price shown below on each bottle purchased June 22 to July 19, 2020.
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Oyster Bay Chardonnay
Marlborough, New Zealand $19.95 (326728) 13.5% alcohol
Tropical fruit, citrus and sweet vanilla aromas abound on this tangy, generously textured, value-packed beauty. Rivers of nicely balanced flavour pour from the bottle with lemon chiffon pie, crisp grapefruit and spiced yellow plum to the fore. It’s mid weight sporting a mid-length finish that’s crisp and refreshing. Pour alongside grilled white fish, roast chicken or roast pork. (Vic Harradine)
• The following 2018 Quails’ Gate Chardonnay was sourced from a blend of notable French chardonnay clones 95, 96, 277, 809 planted in estate vineyards that are approximately thirty years old. It was then fermented and matured in both stainless steel tank and older oak barrels.
• This is also a Vintages Essentials wine always available in select LCBO stores.
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Quails’ Gate Chardonnay 2018
Okanagan Valley, B.C. $24.95 (377770) 13.0% alcohol
Alluring, lifted aromas of butterscotch, piquant spice and green apple leap from the glass. It blankets the palate and fills the senses with a medium-plus bodied, generously textured flow of tang-infused, balanced and beautiful palate flavours with lemon curd, apple compote and tropical notes interwoven with mineral notes and baking spice all persisting through the lingering finish. Pour on its own or with lemon chicken or with pan-seared trout under a squeeze of fresh lemon. In a word or two… delightful, delicious. (Vic Harradine)
• The following wine receives a $5.00 discount on the price shown below on each bottle purchased June 22 to July 19, 2020.
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Mer Soleil ‘Reserve’ Chardonnay
Santa Lucia Highlands, Monterey County $34.95 (958975) 14.9% alcohol
Baking spice, caramel and toasty, buttery aromas unleash a huge gusher of flavour that will leave few imbibers without a strong opinion. If you’re looking for a full-bodied, fully textured, high-octane, tsunami wave of rich, luscious, sweet flavours—grilled pineapple, oak-inspired vanillin and caramel apple—then you should love this. There are tropical fruit notes along with ripe pear, a bit of citrus pith and wisps of oak on the sweet-tinged finish and aftertaste—not for the faint of palate. (Vic Harradine)
Red Wine
• The following wine receives a $1.00 discount on the price shown below on each bottle purchased June 22 to July 19, 2020.
88
Casa Santos Lima ‘Confidencial - Reserva’
Vinho Regional Lisboa $14.95 (452789) 13.5% alcohol
Lifted aromas of berry fruit, spice and floral notes introduce a rich, sweet-tinged wash of ripe juicy cherry, mulberry and black currant intertwined with red licorice and supple tannin. It’s medium bodied with good texture and lengthy finish. It pours well with burgers, meat-laden, red pizza or back ribs mopped with spicy barbecue sauce. (Vic Harradine)
• The following wine receives a $2.00 discount on each bottle purchased June 22 to July 19, 2020.
89
Louis Jadot ‘Combe Aux Jacques’ Beaujolais-Villages 2008
AOC Beaujolais-Villages $17.95 (365924) 12.5% alcohol
Racy and full of verve, this opens with aromas of mixed spice, red berry fruit and red cherry. The flavours—red pie cherry, cranberry and ripe pomegranate are carried along on an assertive spine of acidity. It’s light to mid weight and well textured with a racy and lip-smacking finish. This is looking to partner with tomato-based food like a grilled chicken breast smothered in tomato mushroom sauce or lasagna. This is a Vintages Essentials product, always available in select stores. (Vic Harradine)
• The following wines receive a $3.00 discount on each bottle purchased June 22 to July 19, 2020.
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Montes Alpha Cabernet Sauvignon 2014
DO Colchagua, Chile $19.95 (322586) 14.0% alcohol
Ripe, juicy, red cherry/berry fruit, exotic spice and grilled savory herb aromas abound. It cuts a broad, complex swath across the palate with a nicely textured, medium-plus bodied flow of bramble berry and juicy black cherry mingling with sweet vanilla, baking spice, cracked black pepper and a wisps of soft, ripe tannin. The balanced finish and aftertaste is robust, lengthy and mouth-watering good. (Vic Harradine)
92
San Fabiano Calcinaia Cellole Gran Selezione Chianti Classico
DOCG Chianti Classico $42.95 (411389) 14.5% alcohol
Sangiovese is the majority component of this wine, greater than 90%, with a variety of other grapes in the blend. This is an exceptional quality wine just entering its drinkable age. It has a medium-red hue with hints of salmon around the edges. The nose is a complex harmony of mushrooms, wet wood, cherry jam, vanilla and spice aromas. It’s medium-full bodied on the palate with flavours of cherry and raspberry peeking out from behind a firm layer of tannins. The finish is tang-laden with hints of dried herbs. This will keep in the cellar through to 2023. Decant this for a couple of hours before serving and enjoy with a steak grilled medium-rare over a wood-fire. (Dave Isaacs)
• The following two wines receive a $5.00 discount on each bottle purchased June 22 to July 19, 2020.
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Beringer ‘Knights Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon
Knights Valley, California $44.95 (352583) 14.8% alcohol
This blend of predominantly cabernet sauvignon with a splash of cabernet franc, merlot and petit verdot, matured 16 months in French oak, 30% new. Dark cherry, plum compote, chipotle, baking spice and violet aromas showcase the complex nose. Silky soft on palate entry with flavours of ripe black cherry, clove and vanilla, it shows a firmer profile mid palate with tight tannin and flavours of cocoa powder, freshly cracked black peppercorn and a wisp of red plum acidity through the finish and aftertaste. This is full-bodied with cellaring potential; enjoy now to 2024 with juicy rare prime rib after a two-hour aeration/decant. (Louise Boutin)
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Rodney Strong ‘Estate’ Pinot Noir 2011
Russian River Valley, Sonoma County, California $29.95 (954834) 14.5% alcohol
This is a premium pinot from the fabulous cool-climate appellation of Russian River Valley. It’s part California with ripe fruit and oodles of it, and part Burgundy with good structure and lip-smacking acidity for excellent balance. There’s red cherry with wisps of red currant and mixed spice on the nose and palate joined by ripe black berry and notions of beetroot on the finish and lingering aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)
Cheers, Louise, Lisa, Dave, Vic