Winecurrent
April 29, 2020 Newsletter

Important message:

One of the most safe, convenient and cost-effective ways for you to purchase wine is by ordering online from the relative safety of your own home from one of your favourite Ontario wineries and/or wine agents with most of them offering free shipping to your door with a minimum 6 or 12 bottle purchase. You can find many Ontario wineries by clicking on and scrolling through the ‘New in Ontario Wineries’ on left of the opening page of www.winecurrent.com.

Australia FlagWinecurrent’s virtual journey continues taking you to Australian wineries with special attributes located in South Australia. This week we look at Rockford, a family-owned winery in the Barossa Valley Geographical Indication (GI) with two wines in the Langton’s Classification of Australia’s Fine Wines. Two of the wines reviewed are slated to make their way here this fall. See those wine reviews, a video, and learn much, much more here by clicking on this link.

This week’s wine reviews are from wines sent by the following agencies and wineries. Please support these folks by ordering from them after you have read reviews and found wines that appeal to you and within your wine budget. The wine agents listed below all have a listing of dozens of other wines that are available for purchase and delivery to your home via their websites, simply click on their names to access them.

Canada Flag Ontario Agents: FWMProfile Wine GroupThe Vine Agency 
Canada Flag Ontario Wineries: 2027 Cellars; Broken Stone Winery; Cave Spring Cellars; Henry of Pelham; Kacaba Vineyards; Malivoire Wine Company. 


The LCBO may not print a Vintages Catalogue for the upcoming release and may not ship wines slated to be in that release to all stores. In other words, there are many more interesting wines outside the LCBO than there are inside, and these other wines are obtained more easily and more safely by reading the following reviews and ordering from the winery or agent. 

As you may know, winecurrent does not charge wineries or agents to review their wines and receives payment from no one; not even when they place stickers of winecurrent ratings on bottles or use reviews on their tweets, Facebook page or web site. We also do not charge subscribers or receive compensation in any way. You receive unencumbered reviews and comments from this source.

New in Ontario Wineries

(in alphabetical order)

Order the following 2027 wines online from the family-owned and managed www.2027cellars.ca . Winecurrent subscribers receive free shipping in Ontario when they input the promo code: Free10.

• This is the first Pinot Gris to be released under the highly respected 2027 Cellars label. It was sourced from hand-picked fruit from the VQA Vinemount Ridge sub appellation and demonstrates the unique terroir of Falls Vineyard.

92drink now Oh Canada!
2027 Cellars ‘Falls Vineyard’ Pinot Gris 2019
VQA Vinemount Ridge $25.00 12.0% alcohol
Only slightly yellow hued in the glass, pleasing aromas of yellow peach, apricot and hints of tropical fruit open this balanced-on-a-pin, very good value, medium-bodied, generously textured beauty. It blankets the palate with a crisp, juicy wash of delightful flavours—ripe peach, tangy lemon and notions of peel marmalade. It finishes clean, refreshing and lip-smacking delicious with an additional hint of lime. Pour on its own as a delightful aperitif or alongside roast chicken or pan-seared or grilled fish or seafood. (Vic Harradine)

• In the beginning, the raison d’être for 2027 Cellars was for their wines to be single varietal and ‘terroir driven’. Owner/Winemaker, Kevin Panagapka, thought he might try putting these three white grapes together and when he tasted it, he couldn’t resist bottling and offering the following wine to the public, although it’s quite ‘contrary’ to his original thesis. All that to say, don’t dawdle, this is delicious and the price-quality balance swings wildly in your favour.

93drink now Exceptional Value! Oh Canada!
2027 Cellars ‘Contrary’ White Blend 2019
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $16.00 12.5% alcohol
This white blend of riesling, pinot gris and chardonnay delivers aromas of tropical fruit—mango and guava—adorned with wisps of apricot and citrus notes. It coats the palate with a well-textured flow of white peach, mineral notes and lemon curd surfing on crisp, clean and refreshing underpinning. This is medium-plus bodied and silky textured with deft balance throughout. The long finish adds lustre and hints of lime and blood orange. Pan-seared or grilled fish and seafood pair well, as does roast pork and steamed mussels in a garlic, cream and white wine broth. (Vic Harradine)

94drink now Oh Canada!
2027 Cellars ‘Wismer Vineyard – Foxcroft Block’ Riesling 2019
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $23.00 11.0% alcohol
Aromas of green apple, pear and piquant citrus lead the way to a surge of flavours that dazzle the palate—lemon-lime cordial, Granny Smith apple and quince jelly. It’s medium bodied with generous mouthfeel and showcases persistent purity of fruit, deft balance and a monumentally long, lip-smacking finish that adds a lick or two of piquant minerality. Pour on its own or pair with charcuterie and a baguette or Alsace onion tart.

95drink now Exceptional Value! Oh Canada!
2027 Cellars ‘Wismer Vineyard – Foxcroft Block’ Chardonnay 2018
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $27.00 12.8% alcohol
Bold aromas leap from the glass—cinnamon and nutmeg mingling with toast and ripe pear. It coats the palate with a full-bodied river of silky-smooth textured flavours—sweet vanilla, baking spice and honeydew melon decorated with lemon pie filling for tang and a balanced-on-a-pin finish and aftertaste. This exhibits a quality level and je ne c'est quoi not found in most chardonnay at this price point, but rather at twice the price and more. (Vic Harradine)

• The following 2019 2027 Cellars ‘Wismer Vineyard – Foxcroft Block’ Gamay Rosé was sourced from a single vineyard, hand-harvested, crushed and destemmed then cold settled for 12 hours before pressing.  It was then racked off ‘Juice Lees’ after 24 hours of cold settling. It was fermented at 12° C for three weeks using commercial yeast and bottled early February 2020 to retain the fresh fruit component.

92drink now Exceptional Value! Oh Canada!
2027 Cellars ‘Wismer Vineyard – Foxcroft Block’ Gamay Rosé 2019
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $18.00 13.0% alcohol
Aromas of strawberry and watermelon show the way to a fresh, fruity and lively rosé that delivers in spades from twist top to last drop. It delights the palate and senses with a tangy, fruit-filled river of pure ambrosia expressed as strawberry cordial and hints of lightly sugared rhubarb that persists through the crisp, refreshing and mouth-watering finish and aftertaste along with a fleck of saline minerality. Easily sipped on its own, it jumps into high gear paired with pan-seared salmon under a squeeze of fresh lemon, Caesar salad or 3-cheese white pizza made with brie, goat cheese and mozzarella on flatbread already brushed with spiced olive oil then adorned with arugula once out of the oven. (Vic Harradine)

• The following 2018 2027 Cellars ‘King Street Vineyard’ Pinot Noir was sourced from hand-harvested, hand-sorted fruit from low-yielding vines of 2 tonnes/acre. Fruit was destemmed with 30% crushed prior to a two-week cold-soak and maceration. It was wild-yeast fermented for three weeks, pressed into tank then racked into Burgundian oak barrels, 40% new. It matured on primary lees for 14 months before being bottled.

93drink or cellarOh Canada!

2027 Cellars ‘King Street Vineyard’ Pinot Noir 2018

VQA Twenty Mile Bench $30.00 12.5% alcohol

Aromas of exotic incense, gamey and floral notes, and red berry fruit precede a medium-bodied, nicely textured river of palate flavours with crunchy red berry fruit and pomegranate deftly balanced with black Bing cherry and hints of sweet vanilla and ripe black plum framed by excellent acidity and tang and supported by soft wisps of tannin. The finish and aftertaste replay palate flavours showcasing persistent purity of fruit. Owner/winemaker, Kevin Panagapka, once again hits a bullseye—Kudos! (Vic Harradine)

Order the following two wines online for home delivery with free shipping for orders of six bottles or more from the family-owned Broken Stone Winery then search through their site for other wines that interest you.

• The following 2018 Broken Stone Winery Chardonnay was sourced from two separate low-yielding—approximately 1.5 tonnes per acre—PEC vineyards with clay-loam soils dotted with limestone. It was matured for approximately 12 months in one- to three-year-old French oak barrels, no new oak. This, as with most whites, really shines when the bottle is removed from the ice bucket or refrigerator twenty minutes before pouring. Broken Stone is a family-owned and family-worked winery.

92drink or cellar Oh Canada!
Broken Stone Winery ‘County Grown’ Chardonnay 2018
VQA Prince Edward County $29.95 13.4% alcohol
Alluring aromas of baking spice, minerality and green apple abound on the nose of this gorgeous chardonnay. It blankets the palate with depth, complexity and delicious flavours of tang-laden lemon curd and piquant spice adorned with Key lime and flinty mineral notes persisting through the lengthy, balanced and beautiful finish. This is medium-full bodied with generous texture and a price-quality balance tipped well in your favour. Über delectable sipped on its own, it forms an exquisite pairing with Gouda, Gruyère or roast chicken. (Vic Harradine)

• The following 2018 Broken Stone Winery ‘Estate Grown’ Pinot Noir was sourced from a single estate vineyard of 777, 114 and 115 pinot noir clones that were planted 9 years ago by the present owner/winemaker in clay loam soils dotted with limestone. It was matured for approximately 12 months in one- to three-year-old French oak barrels, no new oak. This, as with most reds, especially in summer, really shines when the bottle is removed from warm ‘room temperature’ and placed in an ice bucket or refrigerator twenty minutes before pouring.

92drink or cellar Oh Canada!
Broken Stone Winery ‘Estate Grown’ Pinot Noir 2018
VQA Prince Edward County $34.95 12.0% alcohol
Piquant spice and grilled herbs mingle with red berry fruit and medicinal notes on the nose. It races across the palate with a tang-infused, nerve and verve surge of passion fruit and red currant underpinned by firm, ripe tannin. It finishes dry, crisp and clean with lingering flavours of pie cherry and mineral notes. It’s medium weight with good mouthfeel and looks to improve with short-term cellaring. Give this a go with slow- and low-cooked lamb shoulder. (Vic Harradine)

• Order the following wines by contacting Lauren Hayes-Vanden Weghe account manager for The Vine Agency by email This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. or phone her mobile 613.240.3667 with free shipping for all orders over $75.00

• Cave Spring Cellars is a true pioneer in Ontario as growers and winemakers. The Pennachetti family and winemaker Angelo Pavan, have helped start, shape and guide the direction and success of the Niagara Peninsula and overall Ontario wine industry for almost half of a century. They planted their first vines—riesling and chardonnay—in 1974 on what is now one of the über-premium VQA appellations, the Beamsville Bench.

92drink or cellar Oh Canada!

Cave Spring Cellars ‘Adam Steps’ Riesling 2017

VQA Beamsville Bench $24.95 10.5% alcohol

Crafted from 40-year-old riesling vines from the unique ‘Adam Steps’ limestone-rich soil on the Niagara Escarpment, lifted aromas of floral notes and wisps of minerality waft easily from the glass. It races over the palate with steely resolve in a gusher of palate flavours with Key lime and crisp green apple to the fore interwoven with pit fruit—mango, peach and apricot—along with notes of minerality. This single-vineyard gem is medium bodied with good texture and a lengthy lip-smacking finish and aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)

• Low-yielding chardonnay vines averaging 30 years old provided excellent fruit for the following 2018 Cave Spring Cellars ‘Estate Grown’ Chardonnay. It matured in older oak casks before bottling. 

91drink or cellar Oh Canada!
Cave Spring Cellars ‘Estate Grown’ Chardonnay 2018
VQA Beamsville Bench $19.95 (256552) 13.5% alcohol
This presents with a rich nose of orchard fruit, anise and vanilla notes opening the door to a medium-full bodied wash of delicious ripe pear and peach flavours lifted with tangy and slightly pithy citrus. It is perfectly balanced with an enjoyable warm and lasting dry finish, replaying anise and vanilla notes. Pour alongside prawn risotto. (Louise Boutin)

• Fruit—90% cabernet franc, 10% chardonnay—for the following 2018 Cave Springs Cellars Rosé was carefully selected from two VQA sub-appellations with 2/3rds from Lincoln Lakeshore and 1/3rd from Beamsville Bench. Before pressing, it gained its deep Rosé colour from 12 to 24 hours of skin contact, it then began fermentation at a cool temperature in tank.

89drink now Oh Canada!
Cave Springs Cellars Rosé 2018
VQA Niagara Peninsula $15.95 13.0% alcohol
Sour cherry, rhubarb, red bell pepper and crumbled bay leaf make up the aroma profile of this rosé. This is medium-bodied with a fair dose of red berry acidity combined with dry herb character, white pepper and mineral notes completing the flavour palette. It offers a dry and savoury finish with a slight bite in the aftertaste. Pair with ratatouille or lamb burger garnished with a thin slice of feta cheese. (Louise Boutin)

Order the following wines by the case for daily home or office directly online from Kacaba Vineyards free shipping in Ontario for orders of six bottles or more, by phone at 1 866 522-2228 or 1 905 562-5625, or pick up a bottle or case from the winery (curbside pick-up or shop in the boutique) at 3550 King Street in Vineland ON.

• The following 2017 Kacaba Vineyards ‘Silver Bridge Vineyard’ Syrah was sourced from the oldest Kacaba syrah vineyard—the first syrah to be planted in Ontario—with vines 19 years old when harvested for this wine. This vineyard consistently produces the ripest fruit with high sugar levels and excellent concentration of fruit flavours.

90drink or cellar Oh Canada!
Kacaba Vineyards ‘Silver Bridge Vineyard’ Syrah 2017
VQA Niagara Escarpment $32.95 12.9% alcohol
Lively, lifted aromas of piquant spice-infused bramble berry fruit, cassis, gamey notes and ripe blueberry leap from the glass. It captures the palate with a wonderful wash of tang-laden pie cherry and black plum compote underpinned by fine-grained tannin, framed by delightful, mouth-watering tang. This is medium-weight with good mouthfeel and a balanced finish. It also showcases some depth and complexity. Pour alongside grilled lamb chops after a two-hour aeration/decant. (Vic Harradine)

• The following 2017 Kacaba Vineyards ‘Terraced Vineyard’ Syrah was sourced from some of the oldest vines—19 years old when some fruit was picked for this wine along with a later planting in 2007 making those 10 years old. The steepness of the ravine meant it had to be terraced in order to be worked. Its north-south line provides optimum ripening potential for the fruit each vintage.  

90drink or cellar Oh Canada!
Kacaba Vineyards ‘Terraced Vineyard’ Syrah 2017
VQA Niagara Escarpment $32.95 13.0% alcohol
This 100% syrah bursts with sour cherry, mixed dry herb and gamy aromas on the first nose, then revealing fresh raspberry and violet notes with additional swirling. A fresh tangy and savoury wash of flavours aligned with the aroma features treats the palate, adding a suggestion of ripe cranberry and briny olive mid-way through and persisting in the delicious dry finish. This is medium-bodied with a nice grip of ripe tannin and a perfect partner to marinated meats on the grill or vegetarian red pizza garnished with black olives. (Louise Boutin)

92drink or cellar Oh Canada!
Kacaba Vineyards ‘Barrel Fermented’ Chardonnay 2017
VQA Niagara Escarpment $39.95 (262436) 14.3% alcohol
Apple, pear, yellow plum and peach aromas abound on the nose of this medium-full bodied, balanced and beautiful chardonnay. Palate flavours of apple pie and yellow peach mingle with sweet vanilla and red licorice. This showcases deft balance, persistent purity of fruit, and plenty of flavour from cork pop to last drop. The finish lingers with mouth-watering flavour, Pour with a variety of pan-seared fish and seafood or roast pork or barbecued beer-can chicken. (Vic Harradine)

• Ten-year-old syrah vines were sourced for the following wine planted on a plot of fairly flat land on the most westerly portion of Kacaba’s vineyards.

90drink or cellar Oh Canada!
Kacaba Vineyards ‘Proprietor’s Block’ Syrah 2017
VQA Niagara Escarpment $32.95 12.7% alcohol
A lovely ruby colour in the glass, this opens with lifted aromas of floral notes and red berry fruit. It dishes up a tang-laden stream of black plum, red cherry and grilled sprigs of herbs with a hint of tomato leaf. This is medium weight with good mouthfeel and a lingering finish of tang-laden pie cherry and savoury herbs underpinned by still-evolving tannin. Aerate/decant for two hours pouring with osso buco or cassoulet. (Vic Harradine)

• For daily home, office or restaurant delivery for the following two certified sustainable wines, order online from Malivoire Wine Company with free shipping on orders of six bottles of wine or $20 credited next business day towards delivery outside Ontario & Québec. Phone 905-563-9253 Monday to Saturday 10 am - 4 pm for locals to acess curbside pickup instructions. They have closed their tasting room until further notice, due to safety concerns regarding the COVID-19 pandemic.

92drink now Oh Canada!
Malivoire ‘Musqué Spritz’ 2019
VQA Beamsville Bench $24.95 9.5% alcohol
Aromas of floral notes and citrus waft from the glass of this summer quaffing wine—it’s reminiscent of Moscato d’Asti only not as sweet, much more balanced. It’s chockful of sweet-tinged flavour—with grilled pineapple, ripe Bosc pear and excellent balancing lemon acidity. It’s light on its feet with plenty of spritz, making it near-perfect for a summer sipper with enough character, structure and complexity to pair with a variety of salads—Niçoise, Waldorf and others—or lighter-styled mains like quiche or tart d’Alsace. (Vic Harradine)

92drink now Oh Canada!
Malivoire ‘Vivant’ Rosé 2019
VQA Beamsville Bench $19.95 12.5% alcohol
Sourced from 100% estate-grown pinot noir, this was hand-harvested and whole-cluster pressed then chilled prior to a cool fermentation in stainless steel. Lively aromas of strawberry and floral notes provide segue to a tang-infused laser-like stream of passionfruit and red currant intertwining with flinty minerality and racing over the palate then blanketing the lingering finish. It’s medium weight with good mouthfeel and a sustained lip-smacking aftertaste. Pour with soft cheese—brie or Camembert—or a deli platter and baguette or vegan veggie wrap. (Vic Harradine)

• The following 2018 Malivoire ‘Old Vines Foch – Albert’s Honour’ is coming soon – as a product sold only through the winery. We’ll publish this review again once we have a price and it’s available for purchase; for now it’s a heads up to pique your interest.

89drink or cellar Oh Canada!
Malivoire ‘Old Vines Foch – Albert’s Honour’ 2018
VQA Ontario $TBD 12.5% alcohol
Black and inky in the glass, it’s sourced from the hybrid grape, marechal foch, and dishes up a smorgasbord of aromas with gamey notes, tarry bits and red berry fruit all predominant. It spreads over the palate with a wide swath of flavours—Ribena ©, dark cherry, piquant spice and savoury herbs. It’s balanced with good texture and a lingering tang-laden, dry finish and aftertaste. Give this a go with lamb tagine. (Vic Harradine)

Upstream in winecurrent

Vintages Release: May 2, 2020

(very limited availability of 2 cases per store, in only ten LCBO Flagship Stores across the entire province, you can also source this from the winery, online and delivered to your home – see Kacaba reviews above)

92drink or cellar Oh Canada!
Kacaba Vineyards ‘Barrel Fermented’ Chardonnay 2017
VQA Niagara Escarpment $39.95 (262436) 14.3% alcohol
Apple, pear, yellow plum and peach aromas abound on the nose of this medium-full bodied, balanced and beautiful chardonnay. Palate flavours of apple pie and yellow peach mingle with sweet vanilla and red licorice. This showcases deft balance, persistent purity of fruit, and plenty of flavour from cork pop to last drop. The finish lingers with mouth-watering flavour, Pour with a variety of pan-seared fish and seafood or roast pork or barbecued beer-can chicken. (Vic Harradine)

Vintages Release: May 16, 2020

88drink now Oh Canada!
Three of Hearts ‘Trois Coeurs’ Rosé 2019
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (552562) 11.5% alcohol
This racy rosé is a blend of 53% pinot noir, 41% pinot gris (itself a mutation of pinot noir) and 6% gamay. It dishes up aromas of red raspberry, rhubarb and watermelon before unleashing a tang-laden explosion of passionfruit, lemon zest and ruby red grapefruit that blankets the palate persisting through the finish and aftertaste. This is tang-driven from cork pop to last drop. Seek out a pasta with rich zesty sauce; try pasta puttanesca or spaghetti and Bolognese sauce.

Vintages Release: May 30, 2020

88drink or cellar
Gérard Bertrand Grenache/Syrah/Mourvèdre 2016
Corbières, France $17.95 (394288) 14.0% alcohol
Aromas of local wild herbs, aka garrigue, interlace with red and black cherry/berry fruit and gamey notes. It rolls over the palate in waves of tang-laden red currant and cranberry cloaked in black plum and notions of passion fruit. This is medium weight with good texture and plenty of racy acidity throughout. Pour alongside pasta in tomato sauce or meat-laden red pizza. (Vic Harradine)

Vintages Release: June 13, 2020

90drink now
AIX ‘Saint Aix’ Rosé 2019
AOP Coteaux d’Aix en Provence, France $24.95 (451906) 13.0% alcohol
This is a pretty pastel-salmon tinged blend of grenache, syrah and cinsault with a splash of carignan, offering fresh aromas of nectarine, watermelon and strawberry complemented with white flower notes. It’s crisp on the palate with peach flavours, zesty pink grapefruit, a hint of ginger and a touch of balancing almond bitterness trailing in the clean finish and aftertaste. This is a delicious versatile rosé with enough body to pair with sushi or grilled salmon but also enjoyable with mixed salted nuts or simply on its own. (Louise Boutin)

91drink or cellar Exceptional Value!
Buena Vista ‘the Legendary Badge’ Petite Sirah 2018
California $17.95 (545772)
Grilled savoury herbs and piquant spice mingle with dark berry fruit on the nose of this bold red. A gusher of medium-full bodied flavours race over the palate with passionfruit and black currant intertwined with piquant spice, sprigs of herbs and minty notes underpinned by still-evolving tannin. Not for the faint of palate, it’s much enhanced with a two-hour aeration-decant. Pour with grilled burgers, gourmet sausage or meat-laden red pizza. (Vic Harradine)

Vintages Release: June TBD, 2020

• The following 2018 Henry of Pelham ‘Speck Family Reserve’ Riesling was sourced from estate, sustainably grown vines of the iconic Weiss 21b clone that were thirty-six years old when fruit for this wine was picked. Grapes were hand harvested yielding 3.5 tonnes per acre then gently destemmed and whole-berry pressed followed by fermentation in stainless steel tank with a portion in large, 3000 L, neutral-oak foudres. 

91drink or cellar Oh Canada!
Henry of Pelham ‘Speck Family Reserve’ Riesling 2018
VQA Short Hills Bench $27.95 (643361) 10.5% alcohol
This is a beautiful Mosel-inspired, off-dry riesling displaying aromas of pear, jasmine tea, wet stone and a subtle whiff of petroleum. It flows easily on the palate with delicious honeyed pear flavour, yellow apple and ginger, joined with the perfect kick of pink grapefruit acidity balancing the dry and mineral finish. This medium-bodied gem calls for gourmet sushi platter or vietnamese caramelised pork. (Louise Boutin)

• The following is slated for a Spring, 2020 Release through their agent (see Rockford feature)

94drink or cellar

Rockford ‘Local Growers’ Semillon 2018

Barossa Valley, South Australia $55.00 11.2% alcohol

Fruit for this value-packed gem was picked at the peak of ripeness with three triages made through the vines. Aromas of honeysuckle, yellow peach, ripe apricot and floral notes abound. It’s fully flavoured and simply delicious. It delights the palate and persists through the finish and aftertaste. This is balanced on a pin, medium-plus weight with good mouthfeel enhanced by a bit of oak ageing that also contributes to the weight and texture. Pour now with a pork roast or roast chicken. (Vic Harradine)

New in Vintages

• The following 2018 Quails’ Gate Chardonnay was sourced from a blend of notable French chardonnay clones 95, 96, 277, 809 planted in estate vineyards that are approximately thirty years old. It was then fermented and matured in both stainless steel tank and older oak barrels.

• This is also a Vintages Essentials wine always available in select LCBO stores.

92drink or cellar Oh Canada!
Quails’ Gate Chardonnay 2018
Okanagan Valley, B.C. $24.95 (377770) 13.0% alcohol
Alluring, lifted aromas of butterscotch, piquant spice and green apple leap from the glass. It blankets the palate and fills the senses with a medium-plus bodied, generously textured flow of tang-infused, balanced and beautiful palate flavours with lemon curd, apple compote and tropical notes interwoven with mineral notes and baking spice all persisting through the lingering finish. Pour on its own or with lemon chicken or with pan-seared trout under a squeeze of fresh lemon. In a word or two… delightful, delicious. (Vic Harradine)

• The following 2016 Bodegas Lan Crianza is a Vintages Essentials wine always found in select LCBO stores. It’s also an inexpensive way to taste what will be a $30 or $40 wine when released from the winery some five or more years from now as a ‘Reserva’ or a ‘Gran Reserva’ wine.

92drink or cellar Exceptional Value!
Bodegas Lan Crianza 2016
DOCa Rioja, Spain $16.95 (166538) 13.5% alcohol
Sexy aromas of exotic spice and incense interweave with soft, ripe, dark berry fruit and flecks of mocha. It bathes the palate with a rich and balanced wash of black raspberry and dark cherry flavours underpinned by ripe chalky tannin and framed by excellent acidity and purity of fruit. It’s medium-plus bodied with deft balance and a lengthy finish. Pour on its own, after a two-hour aeration/decant or alongside prawn and chorizo paella. (Vic Harradine)

• The following 2018 J. Lohr ‘Riverstone Chardonnay and the one following that, the 2017 J. Lohr ‘Seven Oaks’ Cabernet Sauvignon are both Vintages Essentials wines always available in select LCBO stores.

90drink or cellar
J. Lohr ‘Riverstone Chardonnay 2018
Arroyo Seco, Montery, California $19.95 (258699) 14.0% alcohol
There’s excellent value here. It opens with baking spice, ripe red apple and vanilla aromas. A medium-full bodied, well-textured stream of piquant spice and lemon zest captures the palate persisting through the finish and aftertaste along with notions of grilled pineapple and tang laden white grapefruit persisting through the finish and aftertaste. Pour with lemon chicken or pan-seared fish under a squeeze of fresh lemon. (Vic Harradine)

92drink or cellar
J. Lohr ‘Seven Oaks’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2017
Paso Robles, California $23.95 (656561) 14.0% alcohol
This is delicious, very good value, deftly balanced and smooth and mellow from cork pop to last drop. This opens with alluring aromas of black cherry, cassis and notions of sandalwood. It continues to tempt with palate flavours of black currant and black plum, ripe, but not jammy, that are adorned with excellent tang and hints of piquant spice. This is lengthy, balanced and beautiful on the finish and aftertaste. Pour with a prime cut of beef, grilled medium rare. (Vic Harradine)

New in the LCBO Portfolio

The following House Wine Co. Vidal Rosé Non-Vintage was sourced from fruit in the VQA Niagara Peninsula with primarily chardonnay fermented in tank, and merlot fermented on their skins for a dash of colour.

89drink now Exceptional Value! Oh Canada!
House Wine Co. Vidal Rosé
VQA Ontario $4.95 (15499) 250 mL can w/pull tab 11.0% alcohol
And now for something completely different; it pours with a light-salmon hue, not far off the colour of a rosé from Provence where more than half of their production is rosé. Alluring aromas of strawberry and orange cordial are precursors to a sweet wash of candied rosewater on entry before oodles of tang-infused blood orange appears on the back palate and the clean and refreshing, balanced finish. It’s an interesting rosé that’s versatile at the table—sip on its own or with charcuterie, a deli platter, Salad Nicoise, grilled prawns or 3-cheese white pizza. (Vic Harradine)

• The following exceptional-value Aria Wine Company ‘Aria’ Sparkling Rosé was fashioned by the Charmat method with the first or second fermentation completed in a sealed tank before being bottled under pressure.

89drink now Exceptional Value!Oh Canada!
Aria Wine Company ‘Aria’ Sparkling Rosé (Non-Vintage)
VQA Ontario $14.95 (14981) 11.5% alcohol
Aromas of floral notes, honey and wisps of strawberry waft from the glass of this light-salmon hued, Rosé blend—93% gewürztraminer/5% muscat blanc/1% zweigelt/0.5% lemberger/0.5% pinot noir. A sweet-tinged surge of ripe, sugared red strawberry flows over the palate interlaced with lemon pastille and a refreshing line of lip-smacking tang and acidity. Give this go as your summer sipper and pair it with just about any appetizer or lighter-styled main. It’s well balanced, full of flavour from a unique blend at a fabulous price. (Vic Harradine)

Follow this link to the full Rockford feature including a video with the owner, interesting facts about how they operate and, of course, wine reviews.

Rockford wines are highly sought after and a challenge to source. To enquire, contact their Ontario wine agent, Breakthrough Beverage Group, for assistance/information on how you can purchase and have delivered to your home: Phone 647-790-0550 option 2, Fax 647-776-7800 or by Email at This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. . When you visit Australia, once the planet has corralled this virus, book an appointment to visit the winery tasting room, just north of Adelaide.

• Fruit for the following Rockford 2018 Eden Valley Riesling was hand harvested from premium, hand-pruned, old vines growing in cool-climate Eden Valley—it’s released 12 to 24 months later than most Eden Valley Riesling, gaining weight and complexity in the process.

96drink or cellar Exceptional Value!
Rockford Eden Valley Riesling 2018

Eden Valley, South Australia $45.00 12.1% alcohol

Mineral notes, citrus and hints of green apple abound on the nose of this gorgeous riesling. It surges over the palate with a delightful wash of Key lime cordial interwoven with racy lemon curd, a hint of white peach and a wash of lip-smacking tang and notions of flinty mineral notes. This is medium weight with good mouthfeel and persistent purity of fruit and flavour through the lengthy mouth-watering finish and aftertaste. Pour with charcuterie, a deli platter or bocconcini and tomato slices under a dousing of olive oil and dots of balsamic vinegar topped with fresh basil. (Vic Harradine)

• The following Semillon pays homage to two long-time growers from whom the fruit for the following was sourced—the Sibley and Kalleske families. It’s also slotted in for a Spring, 2020 release through their Ontario agent Breakthrough Beverage Group. See above for contact information and how to place an order for home delivery through them.

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Rockford ‘Local Growers’ Semillon 2018

Barossa Valley, South Australia $55.00 11.2% alcohol

Fruit for this value-packed gem was picked at the peak of ripeness with three triages made through the vines. Aromas of honeysuckle, yellow peach, ripe apricot and floral notes abound. It’s fully flavoured and simply delicious. It delights the palate and persists through the finish and aftertaste. This is balanced on a pin, medium-plus weight with good mouthfeel enhanced by a bit of oak ageing that also contributes to the weight and texture. Pour now with a pork roast or roast chicken. (Vic Harradine)

• The must—grape skins and seed—from an Alicante Bouchet saignée, Rosé-styled wine, was utilized in the following wine, hence the ‘Frugal Farmer’ moniker. Keeping with the theme, it was sealed under screw cap—less expensive than cork—an anomaly for Rockford table wine.

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Rockford ‘Frugal Farmer’ Grenache/Mataro/Alicante Bouchet 2019

Eden Valley, South Australia $22.50 12.6% alcohol

Floral notes and red and black berry fruit aromas precede a lively and fresh stream of palate flavours with of red currant and passion fruit intertwined with ripe black cherry and ripe black plum and sprigs of savory herbs. There’s good mouthfeel and plenty of tang from twist top to last drop in this red blend—it’s medium bodied and finishes quite lengthy. It’s good to go now and pours well with red pizza or pastitsio. (Vic Harradine)

• The following blend of grenache, mataro - aka mourvèdre - and syrah was sourced from select vineyards in the some of the driest areas in the Barossa—Moppa Springs, Ebenezer and Kalimna. It was fermented in open-top slate tanks with juice pumped over skins several times a day to obtain full flavour, colour and tannin before basket pressed then individual components matured in seasoned oak casks for over 12 months.

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Rockford ‘Moppa Springs’ Grenache/Mataro/Shiraz 2016

Barossa Valley, South Australia $55.00 13.9% alcohol

This 55% grenache/30% mataro/15% shiraz red blend opens with aromas of violets, savoury herbs and dark berry fruit aromas. A gusher of rich and unctuous flavour blankets the palate with cassis and mulberry decorated with piquant spice and sprigs of savoury herbs. It’s medium-full bodied with creamy-smooth mouthfeel and a truckload of charm. The lingering finish adds a healthy dollop of tang and a ripe, soft underpinning of tannin. Pour alongside grilled lamb chops (Vic Harradine)

• The following 2016 Rockford ‘Rod and Spur’ is 53% shiraz and 47% cabernet sauvignon and is named for the hard-working, independent growers who spend the cool winters hand-pruning myriad vines in the traditional ‘rod and spur’ method.

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Rockford ‘Rod and Spur’ Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon 2016

Barossa Valley, South Australia $75.00 13.8% alcohol

Perfumed aromas of floral notes, mixed spice, earthy notes and savory herbs are the clarion call for palate flavours of peppery spice, red currant and minty notes decorated with pie cherry and black plum that infuse the finish and aftertaste. This is medium weight with deft balance, complexity and mouth-watering tang on the lengthy finish. It gained texture and cohesiveness spending 24 months in large, well-seasoned oak barrels. Pour now with grilled rack of lamb, and with careful cellaring on to 2038. (Vic Harradine)

• You’ll find the following Rockford ‘Basket Press’ Shiraz listed in the top tier of the über-premium ‘Langton’s Classification of Australia’s Fine Wines’ placing it with 21 other wines—including Penfold’s ‘Grange’, Henschke’s ‘Hill of Grace’ and Jim Barry’s ‘The Armagh’—as the most highly sought-after Australian wines on the open market. It spent 24 months maturing in wood and additional 18 months in bottle before release. This evocative shiraz showcases owner Robert O’Callaghan’s dedication and single-minded focus on delivering the best wine, from the best fruit using traditional thinking and methods. It’s literally hand made in the fashion of the Australian pioneers who formed strong bonds with neighbours, the land, the vines and the fruit of the vine, many generations ago.

• The following 2014 Rockford Basket Press Shiraz is slated for a September 3, 2020 release through the LCBO Classics Catalogue. If this comes to pass, I venture there won’t be many bottles on offer and it will go quite quickly. This wine has a cult-like following in Australia and abroad. If you cast bait in these high-end waters, you will want to reel in one or more of these.

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Rockford ‘Basket Press’ Shiraz 2014

Barossa, South Australia $115.00 (736488) 13.9% alcohol

Fruit was hand harvested from a host of select vineyards with dry-grown, old vines—up to 140 years old—in numerous sub-regions of the Barossa. Aromas of black currant and violets, with wisps of earthy and gamey notes, precede an elegant river of persistent purity of fruit with delectable dark bramble berry, black juicy cherry and racy red currant to the fore. This is an excellent vintage showcasing deft balance of laser-like tangy acidity, powerful ripe fruit flavours and a firm, ripe tannin structure. Pop corks 2024 to 2034. (Vic Harradine)

• And now for something completely different; the following Non-Vintage Rockford ‘Black Shiraz’ Sparkling wine pays homage to an iconic style of Australian wine that was produced generations ago and nearly lost to the voracious appetite of consumers and winemakers looking for something new. When syrah vines were brought to Australia, they were referred to as Black Shiraz. A popular way to make wine for a number of keen winemakers was to make a sparkling wine—Méthode Traditionnelle—out of this new variety. Rockford and a handful of other South Australia wineries, including Seppelt and Majella have either continued to make or brought back this style of wine by reaching into the past rather than looking to the future. The wines produced by the above three, and there are possibly others, are not anything like the sweet, cloying kind to which most consumers in Canada and U.S. have access. The base of the following wine comes from shiraz made by Rockford owner, Robert O’Callaghan, in the 1970s.

• The following Non-Vintage Rockford ‘Black Shiraz’ Sparkling wine was disgorged in 2019. It’s suggested by Rockford, and some Australian wine critics, these should be consumed within five years after disgorgement, although some last much longer. This wine is listed in the ‘Outstanding’ category of the ‘Langton’s Classification of Australia’s Fine Wines’.

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Rockford ‘Black Shiraz’ Sparkling Non-Vintage
Barossa, South Australia $125.00 13.5% alcohol
Aromas of dark berry fruit and violets make way for a delightful mouthful of fine-bead bubbles tantalizing the palate decorated with flavours of dark berry fruit—plum, black currant and black juicy cherry—adorned with wisps of black licorice. This tastes very much like a highly rated, still, table-wine shiraz only chilled and with bubbles. It’s surprisingly soft and creamy-smooth on the palate and finishes lengthy and dry with excellent balance and flavourful fruit throughout. A treat to serve as a welcoming wine to guests or alongside a wide variety of appetizers. However, best of luck in finding access to some. (Vic Harradine)

• The Paddle Steamer ‘Marion’, is pictured on the label of the following Tawny-styled, fortified wine and part of the proceeds from sales go to preserving this 1897 steam-driven, Murray River icon. Rockford have a number of old barrels of wine that go into the making of this wine and they encourage visitors to look up at the ceiling rafters of the tasting room to catch a glimpse of some that are still maturing for future releases.

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Rockford ‘PS Marion - Old Barossa - V.S. Tawny’ Non-Vintage
Barossa, South Australia $75.00 19.0% alcohol
Aromas of roasted nuts, caramel and dried fruit introduce this fortified, viscous gem. It dazzles the palate with rich ripe flavours of a blend of barrel-aged five- to eighty-year-old wine without being cloying. The palate’s treated to a smorgasbord of flavours—more semi-sweet than sweet—with dates and figs rubbing shoulders with sharp spice, high spirits and hints of currants. It’s medium-full bodied and well balanced throughout. Sip on its own or pair with smoked cheddar or Manchego cheese. Another wine tough to get your hands on unless you visit the winery. (Vic Harradine)

Cheers!