February 3, 2020 Newsletter

Newsletter Highlights include:

There’s another Special Feature regarding New Zealand with wines from two different regions. One, Central Otago in the South Island, is well known for its world class pinot noir, while the other from the nascent wine region of Ōhau on the North Island is certainly turning heads for their quality and their value. The information and wine reviews are found toward the end of this newsletter,

• Exceptional-value wine  – 11 of the 27 wines in this newsletter meet strict quality-price guidelines. The wines range from $14.95 to $24.95 and are easily identified throughout the newsletter via the value checkmark above with even more found after the Vintage Release wines. Strict guidelines? Click here.
• 95 points and over – Two wines rang the 95 points and over bell and both from Ceres Wines in Central Otago, New Zealand—their 2017 ‘Black Rabbit Vineyard’ Riesling @ $24.95 and their 2016 ‘Artists Collection – Black Rabbit Vineyard’ Pinot Noir @ $67.95
• Louise Loves – 2015 Tinto Negro ‘Limestone Block’ Malbec earned 92 points @ $19.95 found under Argentina: Red Wine; 2018 Marynissen Estates ‘Heritage Collection’ Riesling earned 92 points @ $25.95 and 2017 Marynissen Estates ‘Platinum Series’ Cabernet Sauvignon earned 93 points @ $39.95 with both found under New in Ontario Wineries.
• Vic Picks – 2018 Speck Brothers ‘Three of Hearts’ Rosé earned 90 points @ $19.95 found under Ontario: Rosé Wine; 2017 Ceres Wines ‘Composition’ Pinot Noir earned 93 points @ $36.95 found under Ceres Wines in Special Feature; 2019 Ōhau ‘Spicer Brothers’ Pinot Gris earned 92 points @ $15.95 found under Ōhau Wines in Special Feature.

February 8, 2020 Vintages Release

Sparkling Wine

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13th Street Winery Cuvée Brut Rosé Non-Vintage

VQA Niagara Peninsula $26.95 (147504) 12.5% alcohol

This ‘traditional method’ sparkling Rosé underwent its second fermentation in the bottle and is a blend of 56% Pinot Noir, 45% Chardonnay and a splash of Gamay. Aromas of strawberry, baking bread and red licorice introduce an elegant mousse of fine-bead bubbles infused with an array of racy flavour—red currant and cranberry mingle with peach skin and grilled, lightly sugared pink grapefruit. All in all, balanced and crisp, good value and lip-smacking delicious. (Vic Harradine)

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Ferrari Trento Brut Non-Vintage

DOC Trento, Italy $24.95 (352153) 12.5% alcohol

Aromas of tropical fruit, floral notes and baked apple introduce a mid-weight, nicely textured profusion of bubbles riding over the palate garnished with a tapestry of flavour—leesy/baked brioche notes interweaving with apple, poached pear and lemon curd—balanced and persistent through the lip-smacking finish and aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)

Ontario: Rosé Wine

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Speck Brothers ‘Three of Hearts’ Rosé 2018

VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (552562) 11.5% alcohol

This value-laden, gorgeous blend—88% Pinot Noir/12% Pinot Gris—offers up aromas of floral notes, red fruit and citrus. It bathes the palate with a medium-bodied juicy and tangy wash of freshly picked strawberry, mandarin orange and grilled, sugared pink grapefruit. It’s fresh on the palate and through the lingering finish and aftertaste. Lovely on its own, you can pour alongside pan-seared asparagus sprinkled with crumbled chèvre, or with grilled seafood. (Vic Harradine)

Washington State: Red Wine

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Bookwalter Winery ‘Readers’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2016

Washington State $35.95 (13238) 14.9% alcohol

Don’t let the simple red label mislead you, this is serious wine. Rich ripe fruit—82% cabernet sauvignon/18% syrah—was sourced from Columbia Valley (95%) and Yakima Valley then aged 24 months in French oak. The nose is intense with ripe black fruit, green pepper, tobacco leaf, baking spice and briny black olive aromas. A cool stream of juicy black cherry, ripe blackberry and cassis flavours fill the palate until drying tannins join in, revealing dark chocolate character and layers of mixed spice and savoury dry herbs in the lasting enjoyable finish. This is an approachable, skilled-crafted full-bodied red with ageing potential but hard to resist now. Aerate/decant one hour prior to dinner and enjoy with rare prime rib or eggplant parmigiana. (Louise Boutin)

Argentina: Red Wine

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Tinto Negro ‘Limestone Block’ Malbec 2015
Uco Valley Mendoza $19.95 (404137) 14.0% alcohol
Here’s an great-value, high-altitude Argentine gem. Vines are grown at 4000 feet a.s.l. on very rich limestone soil but here’s the kicker; it’s co-fermented with 10-12% cabernet franc. Look for profound aromas of blackberry, blueberry and ripe raspberry lying on a bed of dry black tea and rose petal. The palate is tart with mostly blackberry and cassis skin flavours with a backdrop of savoury herb turning to warm kirsch and mineral notes in the long enjoyable finish. One hour of aerationdecant will open up this medium-full bodied, food-friendly red. A slowly simmered osso buco is a very pleasant match. (Louise Boutin)

Upstream in Winecurrent

Vintage Release: March 7, 2020

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Gérard Bertrand ‘Terroir Fitou’ 2018
AOP Fitou $17.95 (403683) 14.5% alcohol
Carbonic maceration is used for the carignan portion of this red blend completed with grenache then aged in large barriques for 12 months. Plum compote and fresh raspberry with a touch dusty stone introduce a flow of tart fruit flavours—red cherry, raspberry and cranberry followed with a nice dry herb profile trailing in the finish and aftertaste. This is medium-full bodied with a great dose of acidity and soft tannin making it a great partner to grilled artisan sausages and ratatouille. Aeratedecant one hour before meal time. (Louise Boutin)

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Vinedos Marchigue Quilina ‘Gran Reserva’ Carménère 2018
Colchagua Valley $14.95 (13430) 14.0% alcohol
Ripe dark cherry, hot pepper flakes and dry tobacco leaf make up the nose of the native French grape featured in this Chilean wine. A silky-soft cool wash of juicy mixed berry and black cherry flavours travels the palate easily meeting green bell pepper notes and a suggestion of black peppercorn sprinkled strawberry in the dry finish. Medium-full bodied with excellent alcohol integration, this beautiful red will spice up your spaghetti and meatballs dinner night. (Louise Boutin)

Vintage Release: March 21, 2020

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Quinta de Curvos Loureiro 2019
DOC Vinho Verde $12.95 (471284) 12.0% alcohol
Often blended with its Portuguese partner alvarinho, the loureiro grape shines solo in this bright refreshing white. Look for green apple, lime juice and delicate white flower aromas. A light fizz tingles the tongue and carries zesty fruit flavours complemented with notes of green apple, honeydew melon and a mouth-watering saline note encouraging the next sip. This medium-light bodied crisp white will bring a ray of sunshine to your day. Pair with fried calamari or arugula salad with crumbled feta cheese. (Louise Boutin)

New in Ontario Wineries

• The following Marynissen Estates Wines are available for purchase and delivery to your home, office or restaurant only online or for purchase and pick up at the winery, here’s a map.

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Marynissen Estates ‘Heritage Collection’ Riesling 2018
VQA Niagara Peninsula $25.95 9.5% alcohol
Half-way between a dry wine and a sweet dessert wine, this splendid off-dry riesling offers loads of fruit cocktail aromas adorned with a hint of ginger and clover honey. It bathes the palate with a delicious combination of yellow orchard fruit flavours, taken to the next level with honeydew melon, tangy starfruit and a lasting mineral profile persisting in the finish and aftertaste. This medium-light bodied treat is worth every penny and is the perfect companion to spicy Thai cuisine or apple streusel. (Louise Boutin)

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Marynissen Estates Cabernet Merlot 2017
VQA Niagara Peninsula $17.95 13.5% alcohol
This is a blend of 61% cabernet sauvignon and 39% merlot matured eight months in a combination of new and used French and American oak. Aromas of crushed mixed berry fruit combined with baking spice and dry herbs fill the air. A fresh and juicy flow of ripe raspberry and tart red cherry awakens the palate followed with fine grippy tannin showing up midway through and crafting the dry, tangy finish with a lovely savoury herb aftertaste. This is a medium-bodied fresh red, full of life and sure to be enjoyed with red sauce pizza or pasta. (Louise Boutin)

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Marynissen Estates ‘Platinum Series’ Cabernet Franc 2017
VQA Niagara Peninsula $34.95 13.5% alcohol
Eighteen months of maturation in French oak, 20% new goes into this 100% cabernet franc beauty. Red cherry and black plum aromas to the fore, jalapeño pepper and dry bay leaf notes complete the picture. It’s soft on the tongue with plenty of ripe red fruit flavour, blackcurrant, piquant pepper and dry herb in the chalky dry and mineral finish. This medium-full bodied cab franc will be superb poured alongside slowly-simmered pork roast, root vegetables and creamy polenta. (Louise Boutin)

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Marynissen Estates ‘Platinum Series’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2017
VQA Niagara Peninsula $39.95 13.5% alcohol
This is 100% cabernet sauvignon showing complex aromas—black cherry, blackberry, sweet smoke, pepper, tobacco and jalapeño pepper. A mellow flow of juicy black fruit mingling with red bell pepper and black peppercorn flavours pleases the palate. This is all framed in very fine polished tannin and perfect acidity balance, offering a long delectable dry, fruity and peppery finish. Beautifully crafted, this medium-full- bodied red will be a hit paired with roasted duck glazed with plum sauce. (Louise Boutin)

• The following 2017 Marynissen Estates ‘Heritage Collection - Nanny’s Blend’ does not yet have a price and will be released in spring of 2020. It was fermented on skins for two to three weeks then aged 18 months in French oak, 20% new.

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Marynissen Estates ‘Heritage Collection - Nanny’s Blend’ 2017
VQA Niagara Peninsula $TBD 13.5% alcohol
This rich, medium-ruby shaded blend 50% merlot, 25% cabernet franc and 25% cabernet sauvignon offers aromas of ripe black fruit, followed with oak, autumn leaf, mushroom and a nice violet note peeking through. A silky-soft stream of blackberry, black plum and red cherry flavours is quickly joined with chalky minerality and fine tannin on the palate, offering elegant structure and plenty of character. This is medium-full bodied with a long fruity and mineral finish to be savoured on its own or with a juicy rib eye steak off the grill. (Louise Boutin)

• The following 2018 Marynissen Estates Riesling release date has not yet been determined, but the quality-price balance tips well in your favour when it is.

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Marynissen Estates Riesling 2018
VQA Niagara Peninsula $15.95 11.0%alcohol
A lovely whiff of sweet pineapple opens the door to other subtle aromas of ripe quince, petroleum jelly and crushed stone in this 100% riesling matured four months in stainless steel tanks. The well preserved fruit flavours—pineapple, pear, green apple along with ginger and a sparkle of pink grapefruit charm the palate from start to lingering, crisp and chalky mineral finish. This is a value-laden medium-light bodied white with perfect acidity to suggest a choucroute garnie for a delicious pairing. (Louise Boutin)

• The following Vineland Estates Winery wine is available for purchase and delivery to your home, office or restaurant only online or for purchase and pick up at the winery cellar door – here’s a map.

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Vineland Estates Winery ‘Elevation - Bo-Teek Vineyard’ Cabernet 2016
VQA Niagara Escarpment $28.00 14.0% alcohol
This hand-picked, hand-sorted blend of 77% cabernet franc / 23% cabernet sauvignon displays intense and complex aromas—dark berry, black plum, roasted coffee bean, tobacco, cedar and forest floor. This is a robust wine that is sure to please lovers of bold reds. Expect flavours of cassis, blackberry, dark chocolate, savoury herb and a hint of freshly cracked black pepper trailing in the long and totally enjoyable dry and warm finish. This is a full-bodied red with firm yet polished tannin and perfectly integrated alcohol that will only get better with time. Aeratedecant one hour and enjoy with rare-grilled rack of lamb. (Louise Boutin)

Special Feature: Wines from New Zealand

Vic is presently in New Zealand tasting wines from interesting family- and friends’-owned wineries. You were introduced to two wineries last newsletter, here’s two more, both with inspiring stories and premium wines that hopefully make their way to wine lovers in Ontario. 

Ceres Wines Matt Dicey winemaker (left) and brother James Dicey, viticulturist

Ceres Wines

• Vic visited the winery and most of their vineyards hosted by James Dicey, owner and viticulturist. Vic’s hoping some of these wines will catch the eye of an LCBO buyer and allow you to purchase and also enjoy these premium wines.

• The following 2017 Ceres Wines ‘Black Rabbit Vineyard’ Riesling showcases the unique terroir of this single-vineyard gem with substrate of bedrock schist—up to 400 million years old—with a covering of ‘loess’—small, windswept granules of schist—that also produce in some areas the bi-product called pedogenic lime—with pedogenic meaning soil-created, unlike the marine-origin of Limestone.

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Ceres Wines ‘Black Rabbit Vineyard’ Riesling 2017
Bannockburn, Central Otago, South Island, New Zealand $24.95 10.5% alcohol
Aromas of ripe peach, floral and mineral notes provide segue for a surge of palate flavours featuring the yin and yang of glorious sweet and tang—white peach and honeydew melon juxtaposed with racy lime and flinty minerality. It’s medium-bodied with an almost unctuous mouthfeel that becomes deftly balanced by the racy lime and mineral notes. Give this a go with spicy Asian cuisine. Kudos to both brothers—winemaker, Matt Dicey, and viticulturist James—for this stunning gem. (Vic Harradine)

• The following 2016 Ceres Wines ‘Swansong’ Pinot Gris was planted in 2008 on Felton Road. It was one of final plantings by the early wine pioneer in Bannockburn, Robin Dicey, father of the two brothers at Ceres Winery—Matt Dicey, winemaker, and viticulturist and winery owner, James Dicey.

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Ceres Wines ‘Swansong’ Pinot Gris 2016
Bannockburn, Central Otago, South Island, New Zealand $24.95 13.0% alcohol
This is perfectly balanced and simply delicious from the first sip to the last nip. Aromas of peach and apricot decorated with wisps of mixed spice and mineral notes abound. Flavours of pear, peach and apple compote coat the palate adorned with balancing lemon curd and hints of Key lime pie. This is medium-bodied and generously textured with lengthy finish and aftertaste. Pour on its own as a delightful pre-dinner wine or alongside roast chicken, pork, or veal cutlets. (Vic Harradine)

• The following 2017 Ceres Wines ‘Composition’ Pinot Noir is a 40% blend of their 2017 Black Rabbit vineyard and 60% 2017 Inlet vineyard spending 11 months in French oak barrels—75% well seasoned and virtually inert, and 25% new.

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Ceres Wines ‘Composition’ Pinot Noir 2017
Bannockburn, Central Otago, South Island, New Zealand $36.95 14.0% alcohol
Aromas of dark cherry/berry fruit and floral notes open this elegant tasty pinot noir. Dark berry fruit—currant and mulberry—along with truffles and sweet vanilla dominate the palate, finish and aftertaste interweaving with balancing dollops of tasty acidity and tang. This is medium-plus bodied with excellent texture and an underpinning of soft, ripe tannin. It’s lovely to drink now and will improve with careful, short-term cellaring. The dry finish lingers, balanced on a pin. Pour with a premium cut of beef, grilled medium-rare. (Vic Harradine)

• The following single-vineyard 2015 Ceres Wines ‘Artists Collection – Inlet Vineyard’ Pinot Noir was sourced from a river bank terrace near the Bannockburn Inlet from thirteen-year-old pinot noir vines at 225m to 245m a.s.l. The soil is predominantly 400 to 600 mm of topsoil made up of wind-swept über-small particles of schist known as ‘loess’ with a deep, heavy-clay subsoil.

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Ceres Wines ‘Artists Collection – Inlet Vineyard’ Pinot Noir 2015
Bannockburn, Central Otago, South Island, New Zealand $67.95 14.0% alcohol
This is strictly terroir-driven pinot noir with no new oak as matured in three-year-old almost inert French barriques. Aromas of floral and red berry fruit mingle with earthy - mushroom notes and herald a lively juicy wash of palate flavours with crunchy pie cherry and red currant mingling with ripe dark plum and cassis. This is deftly balanced with good purity of fruit and perceptible elements of elegance and charm. This is stunning now and with careful cellaring will improve over the next three to five years. (Vic Harradine)

• The following 2016 Ceres Wines ‘Artists Collection – Black Rabbit Vineyard’ Pinot Noir was sourced from a steep north-east facing slope on Renshaw Ridge located above the Bannockburn inlet. The topsoil is primarily windblown schist loess with solid bedrock schist underpinning. Vines were planted in 2002 at an elevation of 250 to 315 meters.

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Ceres Wines ‘Artists Collection – Black Rabbit Vineyard’ Pinot Noir 2016
Bannockburn, Central Otago, South Island, New Zealand $67.95 13.0% alcohol
Aromas of floral notes, mixed, ripe field berries and grilled savory herbs set the stage for a crescendo of palate flavours with ripe juicy black cherry and hints of kirsch liqueur giving way to tang-laden juicy acidity from racy red fruit—cranberry and plum—and notes of minerality. This is framed by deft balance, underpinned by soft, fine-grained tannin and showcases a monumentally long finish and aftertaste. Fabulous now and good for the next four or more years. (Vic Harradine)

Ōhau Winery.	Ōhau  winery netted vineyard - note the gravel soil.

Ōhau Wines

Ōhau Wines is situated in New Zealand’s newly minted wine-growing region of Ōhau, found in the Horowhenua region in the lower North Island. Ōhau Wines is presently the first and the only commercial winery there.

The region is widely known and respected for its market-garden produce. For hundreds of years the Ōhau River has left gravel deposits and a stony soil that has proven to be compatible with wine-grape growing. Kate Gibbs, a local viticulturist, is credited as the first to discover that the river-terraced soils of Ōhau have similarities to premium vineyard sites in Marlborough.

Winecurrent was in the area and Vic was fortunate to sit with two of the principals involved with this winery—CEO Donna Riley and Marketing Manager, Jo Scully—and taste a selection of their value-packed fine wines. You may also have the opportunity to taste some of these if purchased and stocked by the LCBO. We’ll have to wait and see.

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Ōhau ‘Woven Stone – Single Vineyard’ Sauvignon Blanc 2019
Ōhau, North Island, New Zealand $14.95 12.5% alcohol
The price-quality ratio skews well in your favour, pick up a few. Lifted aromas of herbal notes and wisps of passionfruit provide segue to a delightful, medium-weight gusher of lemon-lime citrus, mineral notes and a cluster of pit fruit flavour—peach, plum and wisps of apricot—coating the palate persisting through the lengthy, mouth-watering finish, clean, crisp and refreshing. Pour on its own as a refreshing sipper or with grilled or pan-seared fish or seafood. (Vic Harradine)

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Ōhau ‘Gravels – Single Vineyard’ Sauvignon Blanc 2017
Ōhau, North Island, New Zealand $18.95 12.0% alcohol
This single-vineyard gem showcases richness, complexity, deft balance and plenty of pizzazz. It opens with alluring aromas of floral notes, citrus and flinty minerality before capturing the palate with a smooth and mellow wash of well-balanced sweet and tang with palate flavours of racy citrus—lemon, lime and grapefruit—interwoven with passionfruit and ripe yellow peach throughout the lingering, lip-smacking finish and aftertaste. Medium bodied with good mouth feel. In a word, it’s delicious. Pour alongside barely pan-seared, sushi-grade tuna. (Vic Harradine)

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Ōhau ‘Not the Norm’ Rosé 2017
Ōhau, North Island, New Zealand $18.95 12.5% alcohol
This gorgeous pinot noir/pinot gris blend leaps from the glass with fruity aromas of red berry fruit and lemon-lime zest adorned by floral notes and honey. This off-dry beauty showers the palate with ripe red apple and sweet watermelon flavours followed on the mid and back palate with strawberry-rhubarb pie then crunchy ruby red grapefruit tang persisting through the clean, refreshing finale. It has good balance and oodles of alluring charm. Serve well-chilled and poured with charcuterie or a well-stocked deli board. (Vic Harradine)

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Ōhau ‘Spicer Brothers’ Pinot Gris 2019
Ōhau, North Island, New Zealand $15.95 13.0% alcohol
Roses and honeysuckle notes abound on the nose. It washes over the palate with honey-infused flavours of ripe pear and apricots interwoven with lemon drop candy. This is medium weight and nicely textured. This delivers much more quality than the price might suggest; it’s exceptional value and really shines as a delightful sipper or paired with roast chicken, pork, grilled fish or seafood. Stop reading; pick up a few and serve chilled. Hats off to winemaker, Jane Cooper. (Vic Harradine)

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Ōhau ‘Woven Stone’ Pinot Gris 2019
Ōhau, North Island, New Zealand $14.95 13.0% alcohol
Aromas of tropical fruit and stone fruit abound. Incredibly fruit-forward flavours of peach, plum and apricot interlaced with hints of caramel and racy lemon zest billow forth from this medium-bodied, nicely textured gem. It really struts its stuff on the mid palate with complexity, balance and oodles of pizzazz. It finishes clean and refreshing. Pour with a white, 3-cheese pizza sprinkled with spicy olive oil after leaving the oven. (Vic Harradine)

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Ōhau ‘Gravels’ Pinot Gris 2018
Ōhau, North Island, New Zealand $18.95 13.0% alcohol
The nose on this satin-smooth gris offers up aromas of peach, wisps of honey, cantaloupe and a bowl of tropical fruit. Honey-infused flavours bathe the palate with a medium-weight, fleshy-textured flow of apricot, white nectarine and Mirabelle plum underpinned by a spine of tangy acidity and framed by deft balance and plenty of charm. Pour with chicken Kiev or crown roast of pork. (Vic Harradine)
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Ōhau ‘Woven Stone’ Pinot Noir 2019
Ōhau, North Island, New Zealand $23.95 13.0% alcohol
Aromas of savory herbs and earthy notes mingle with red berry fruit on the nose of this good-value, mid-weight, nicely textured pinot noir. It races over the palate with crunchy red raspberry and pie cherry bolstered by ripe black currant and plenty of pizzazz. It showcases good balance, charm and elegance along with persistent purity of fruit and a dry, mouth-watering finish. This pours well with pan-seared salmon or prawn and chorizo paella. (Vic Harradine)

Cheers Lisa, Louise, Dave, Vic)