November 25th, 2006 Vintages Release

An explanation of the scoring system and icons is included at the end of this newsletter.

This release begins with 'Our Finest Feature', providing a dazzling array of well-chosen premium wines from around the world. It then follows on in the usual country listings.

Rod did not attend this tasting as he conserves strength for when he will be tasting and spitting the Vintages Releases solo as Vic works his way across Australia visiting wineries this winter. Rod does contribute to various categories immediately following the Vintages Release wines.


Château Cos d'Estournel 2003
AOC St-Estèphe, Bordeaux $279.95 (587485)
This heavenly Cos opens with dark berry fruit, vanilla and toasty notes. One's palate is drenched with perceptible tannins and oak, layers of dark Belgian chocolate, juicy Bing cherry fruit intermingled with savoury spice box flavours. The finish on this beautifully-textured and well-structured cellar-dweller adds gobs of cassis and is lengthy and luxurious. Expensive, but worth every franc. Drink 2010 to 2025.


Château Belgrave 1996
AOC Haut-Médoc, Bordeaux $74.95 (712836)
Smoke and oak waft from the glass of this medium-bodied offering. The tannins are still, ten years on, a bit austere, grippy and quite apparent. There are lovely cassis, licorice and tar flavours on the palate while the medium-length finish adds a touch of spice. Drink this light to medium-bodied wine over the next 3 or 4 years with grilled rare to medium-rare red meat. Would certainly benefit from a 4 hour decant. (VH)


Château Troplong Mondot 2003
AOC St-Émilion, Bordeaux $99.95 (590836)
Inky dark and opaque in the glass, it offers an involved aromatic profile of toasty oak, red berries and spice. Richly concentrated dark berry fruit flavours coat the palate and the lengthy finish. Still in the grip of a powerful tannic structure, it needs time. Expect a full-bodied stunning red that will reward you with a handsome return on your investment of cellaring time when drinking 2015 to 2025. (VH)


Château Cantenac-Brown 2000
AOC Margaux, Bordeaux $99.95 (007641)
A perfumed nose of vanilla and blueberry waft from the glass of the medium-textured beauty. From a spectacular vintage, this offers rich, layered, sweet (13% alcohol) flavours all in the black plum and Bing cherry zones. The ripe tannins and moderate acidity provide deft balance. Finishing lengthy and luxurious, it piles on more fruit and hints of chocolate. Drink now to 2015 with lamb daube. (VH)


Opus One 2002
Napa Valley $269.95 (579060)
This is a very lovely wine that comes with a very hefty price tag. The quiet nose offers cherry and spice box aromas. It then explodes on the palate with oodles of rich, dripping with concentrated flavour, black cherry fruit. There are notes of dark chocolate while the dry dusty tannins need a bit more time to tame. Try this 2010 to 2018. (VH)


Joseph Phelps Cabernet Sauvignon 2003
Napa Valley $72.95 (189795)
A lot going on in this plush, round and ready-to-go Cab. The rather subdued nose provides aromas of rich black fruit - plum and currant - then treats the palate to a mouthful of sweet black fruit, enough tang for balance and minty mocha notes for interest. The finish is moderately-lengthy and fruit forward. Drink now to 2012 with a thick steak. (VH)


Chimney Rock Cabernet Sauvignon 2003
Stags Leap District, Napa Valley $57.95 (731810)
A unique trellising system was developed after a complete re-planting in the early 1990s due to phylloxera. Small amounts of Merlot and Cabernet Franc were included in the blend. Aromas of oak and prunes open up this medium-bodied Napa Valley Cab while the flavours of sweet black fruit, incense-infused cherry and ripe tannins coat the palate. Medium-bodied and drinking well now, it should continue to do so until 2012. (VH)


Jordan Cabernet Sauvignon 2002
Alexander Valley $64.95 (932434)
Bramble berry and cherry aromas and flavours abound in this medium-bodied well-balanced red. There are copious amounts of tannin, zest and fruit that will sustain this for quite some time. The finish is balanced with lovely flavours of cherry and cassis to the fore. It has the potential to cellar well and should reach its optimum drinking window in 2009 to 2015. Pour alongside a slab of rare to medium-rare roast beef. (VH)


Masi 'Mazzano' Amarone 1999
DOC Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico $89.95 (545129)
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) This would be a stunning gift for any wine lover, including you, at a very good price compared to other markets. Black currant, tar and leather aromas whoosh from the glass of this classic beauty. It is heavily textured and provides copious amounts of cassis, black licorice and coffee flavours. The finish builds on the same adding spice and herb notes. Drinking gorgeously now, on its own or with Osso Bucco and mushroom risotto. (VH)


Masi Mazzano Amarone 2000
DOC Amarone Della Valpolicella $89.95 (8276)
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) Not for the faint of heart, this blasts from the glass with toasty oak and cherry aromas. The rich and concentrated flavours are a mélange of all the elegant things to come, chocolate, figs, raisins and sour cherry. For now they are wound tightly by the supple tannin structure and spine of acidity. Cellar 2012 - 2020 then revel in the richly concentrated nectar as you pour alongside osso bucco and a mushroom risotto. (VH)


Antinori "Cervaro Della Sala" 2004
IGT Umbria $53.95 (512376)
Toasted oak, savoury spice and earthy notes form the interesting aromatics of this rich, and richly-priced, Italian white. The palate is treated to layers of apple compote and honeycomb that is balanced off well with citrus zest. It is medium-bodied with a tantalizing finish of sweet apple and nectarine. This would pour proudly alongside Sunday roast chicken with savoury dressing. (VH)


Bollinger "Special Cuvée" Brut Champagne
AOC Champagne $63.95 (384529)
Bollinger is often placed on a pedestal as one of the best 3 or 4 Champagnes available. Purchase this to discover why. The exact blend is a well-guarded secret, but is always over half Pinot Noir with lesser amounts of Chardonnay and Pinot Meunière. This accounts for the full-bodied and beautifully-textured house style. Expect a vigorous mousse attack - not with antlers, but rather the tingly effect when the bubbles hit your palate - a harbinger of brioche, citrus and green apple flavours. Sports a gorgeous finish with enough oomph for white meat dishes - veal or chicken. (VH)


d'Arenberg "The Ironstone Pressings" Grenache/Shiraz/Mourvèdre 2004
McLaren Vale, South Australia $49.95 (974816)
A rather quiet nose of spicy black plum forms the segue to a medium-weight blend that has elegance, structure and ageability. Rich and involved on the palate, it offers cassis and dark cherry flavours that wash in waves. The finish is a glorious mixture of supple tannin, balancing tang and hints of black berry. Drink 2010 to 2016 while congratulating yourself on making a judicious purchase in 2006. (VH)


d'Arenberg 'Dead Arm' Shiraz 2004
McLaren Vale, South Australia $54.95 (981183)
This is a stunner. The dark, opaque, brooding nectar gives off aromas of dusty black cherry and floral notes. The gargantuan flavours drenching the palate are a sweet and juicy mélange of black licorice, tar and kirsch. There are hints of black pepper that intermingle with the gobs of fruit, plush tannin and moderate acidity on the luxurious finish. A hedonist's treasure trove in a bottle that will drink well 2010 - 2020. (VH)


Hardy's "Thomas Hardy" Cabernet Sauvignon 2001
Australia $69.95 (464461)
A good vintage in Coonawarra and an outstanding one in Margaret River, this fabulous wine was sourced from both. The inky blue/purple wine gives off earthy, black cherry, blueberry and minty aromas. This offers structure and style, never getting near jammy. You will find toasty notes (20 months in new oak), ripe red cherry and red currant on the palate with a replay on the lengthy finish over a frame of perceptible tannin and a dollop of tang. Hide this until 2010 then drink over the next decade with a rare to medium-rare slab of beef. (VH)


Hardy's "Eileen Hardy" Shiraz 2001
Australia $89.95 (461368)
First released in 1973 on Aunt Eileen's 80th, this Aussie drop immortalises the matriarch of one of Australia's iconic wine families. Sweet red berry, savoury cherry and toasty notes float off the glass of this rich and densely concentrated gem. The flavours are divine; sweet juicy black berry and plum, spice and licorice abound on the palate. The finish delivers ripe tannins, a moderating dash of zest and more glorious fruit-forward flavours. Be warned, this should fly off LCBO shelves. Drink now to 2014. (VH)


Château de Beaucastel 2004
AOC Châteauneuf-du-Pape $47.95 (375 ml) (968750); $91.95 (750 ml) (711317)
This is a ripper. Beaucastel's claim to fame is they use all 13 allowable grape varieties. It is usually 80% Mourvédre and Grenache with the remaining 11 scrambling for minor and possibly insignificant roles. This medium to full-bodied beauty has spice, leather and currant on the nose while the palate is treated to an explosion of cherry, currant and black licorice flavours. The finish is lengthy, the tannins are round and ripe and the acidity is moderate. Drink now to 2020. (VH)


Meerlust "Rubicon" 2001
WO Stellenbosch $39.95 (983635)
Tar and smoke rip from the glass of this SA treasure. It drenches the senses with rich and concentrated black juicy fruit and myriad supporting flavours including tar, licorice, and an interesting gamey-ness. It finishes lengthy and silky with a strong note of coffee.
There is enough character and structure to drink now to 2014. One of the great bargains in the wine world and worth a multiple purchase. (VH)


Mission Hill 'Oculus' 2003
VQA Okanagan Valley, British Columbia $56.95 (009316)
Fast becoming one of Canada's top offerings, this is beautifully-textured and well-balanced. Smoke and cedar box aromas waft from this full-bodied blend while the flavours gush in sweet (14% alcohol) rich and concentrated waves of raspberry, currant, oak - 15 months - and moderate acidity. The finish replays the fruit adding earthy tones and supple tannins. Drinking well now, with grilled rare steak, and on into 2012; this is a collector's dream. (VH)


Osoyoos Larose "Le Grand Vin" 2003
VQA Okanagan Valley, British Columbia $40.00 (626325)
Dense vine plantings, hand-picked, meticulous fruit selection and a huge financial investment coalesce into a wine that would not be embarrassed to be poured alongside any other. Austere at the moment, this medium to full-bodied blend will develop gracefully to be enjoyed 2010 to 2018. The ripe cherry fruit is clean and pure while the moderate acidity and deft use of oak is a harbinger of great balance and elegance after careful cellaring. (VH)


Taylor Fladgate 30-Year-Old Tawny Port
DO Douro $179.95 (540252)
You will be entranced by the amber-hued nectar with its slight tinge of green and the beguiling aromatics of spicy caramel and toffee. The palate is coated with unctuous and vibrant flavours of almond, hazelnut and marzipan. The finish is monumental with vanilla, spice and toffee predominant. Match this to crème brulée. (VH)

Blandy's 5-Year-Old Bual
Madeira, Portugal $21.95 (011049)
After fermentation, the wines, now in casks, are subjected to high heat, 35 to 60C, in buildings called estufas. This causes the wine to oxidize aka maderize, turn a tawny colour and develop aromas akin to Sherry. Bual is a grape producing a medium-rich wine. Caramel in colour, this emits tantalizing aromas of orange blossom and almonds. It is light to medium-bodied, warm, off dry and spicy. The lengthy and well balanced finish cries out for a match to consommé or warm oven-toasted almonds. Serve chilled. (VH)

Fonseca Guimaraens Vintage Port 1987
DO Douro $37.95 (375 ml) (009605)
Perfect size, perfect maturity, perfect with hard cheeses or chocolate desserts. Lovely aromas of Bing cherry and dark Christmas cake fruit and spices waft from the glass of this medium-weight Vintage Port. Oodles of spice box and dried fruit flavours on the palate and the sweet lengthy finish. This has deft balance and a touch of style. (VH)


Quinta do Noval Late Bottled Vintage Port 2000
DO Douro $23.95 (677815)
Dark and brooding in appearance, the aromas and flavours are spectacular and vibrant. Appealing aromas of raisin and fig abound while flavours of rich dark berry fruit, garrigue and caramelized sugar infuse this full-bodied gem. It will not improve in the bottle so drink up now - after dinner, before a fire, during a visit with friends. (VH)

Etko Commandaria St. Nicholas
Cyprus $15.95 (692491)
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) My first tasting of this will not be the last as I found the orange and smoky nuances of this sherry-like "stickie" just delightful. Made from indigenous Mavro and Xynisteri grapes, it is in a style akin to the famous Muscats of Australia. More brown than amber, it is definitely sweet and should be served cold with a caramel dessert or on its own as the dessert. Super value. (VH)

Southbrook Winery "Watson Vineyards" Cabernet Franc 2001
VQA Niagara Peninsula $24.95 (448357)
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) A quite delicious Cab Franc with very characteristic varietal flavours of spicy red berry fruit, freshly-sharpened HB wood pencil, and bell pepper. Medium-bodied with a very attractive hint of rusticity in the texture and a good fruit finish, this is an excellent partner for well-seasoned grilled red meat. (RP)

Belle Glos Pinot Noir 2005
Sonoma Coast $34.95 (925727)
Red berry fruit and a hint of barnyard form the aromatic profile of this medium- bodied red. New world in style, you will find sweet red berry and strawberry fruit flavours on the palate with a generous ladling of balancing tang. Expect rich, jammy dark fruit flavours on the lengthy finish. Pair to pork tenderloin stuffed with dried fruits now to 2010. (VH)


Hess Select Cabernet Sauvignon 2001
California $21.95 (947887)
Round and ready to be poured, this medium-textured blend (10% Syrah, 5% Merlot) is one of those rare crowd-pleasing lip-smacking reds with good structure and a touch of class. Plum, spice and vanilla aromas are a lovely segue to this plush, juicy and layered gem. Juicy black fruit and balancing tang coalesce to fashion a wine to be savoured on its own or as the perfect partner to hearty stews. At a favourable price point, as well. (VH)

Iris Hill Pinot Noir 2004
Oregon $25.95 (661447)
Not for those who equate light-bodied with a wine fault rather than a desirable style. Cranberry, spice box and loads of berry fruit present in the aromas and flavours of this lovely Pinot. The finish is balanced and pure. Light-bodied, clean and refreshing, this will marry extremely well to smoked duck breast. Would also pour well on its own. (VH)

Montes Alpha Syrah 2004
Apalta Vineyard, Colchagua Valley $22.95 (000612)
From one of Chile's most respected wineries, this opens with a very involved nose of spice and cassis. Currant, sweet juicy cherry and red licorice flavours wash in waves while the finish is an echo with the added interest of toasty oak. Medium-bodied and creamily textured, this would be well served with roast leg of lamb, now to 2012. (VH)


Pérez Cruz Carmenère Reserva 2004
Maipo Valley $24.95 (670539)
This is absolutely gorgeous. Aromas of savoury spices and herbs plus coffee and tobacco are followed by a gusher of sweet (14.5% alcohol) jammy ripe black fruit flavours and a moderating zesty tang on a medium-bodied frame. The finish is a near-religious experience lasting 40 or more seconds. Stunning on its own, it would pair nicely to marinated tenderloin of elk or venison, grilled rare to medium-rare. (VH)


Pérez Cruz Cot Reserva 2004
Maipo Valley $24.95 (670547)
Inky-dark in the glass, the lifted nose spills out crushed juicy black fruit and tarry aromas. Amongst the flavours that coat the palate form this Malbec you can expect cassis, black licorice and creosote. The lengthy finish is fruit-forward and deftly balanced with imperceptible tannin and only a hint of acidity. Producers of premium wines. (VH)


Pérez Cruz Syrah Reserva 2004
Maipo Valley $24.95 (589812)
Discover quintessential new world characteristics in this medium-bodied, ready-to-drink red. Smoke, oak and spiced currant aromas get this started. Sweet, juicy black berry and Bing cherry flavours are omni-present with hints of chocolate. The finish is medium in length, sweet and tending to jammy. Drinking now and best enjoyed on its own. (VH)

Kilikanoon Mort's Block Watervale Riesling 2005
Clare Valley, South Australia $21.95 (005165)
Opening with pungent aromas of kaffir lime leaves and pine needles, this is a tight and racy Riesling not to be missed. The flavours are in the melon and peach zones with a generous ladle of glorious zest plus a cleansing finish with mineral and citrus notes. This gorgeous offering would be the perfect foil to lemon chicken or veal. (VH)


Richard Hamilton Almond Grove Chardonnay 2004
McLaren Vale, South Australia $16.95 (741009)
The subdued nose is beguiling, offering stone fruit and vanilla aromas. This medium-bodied, well-balanced Chard has oodles of citrus and green apple flavours. It's clean and refreshing, but still manages a lovely texture. It finishes with a laser-like tang adding additional fruit flavours of white peach and apple. Very well-priced for a wine of this calibre. (VH)

Cape Mentelle Shiraz 2004
Margaret River, Western Australia $26.95 (452516)
Smoke, oak and toast, with hints of mocha form the aromatic profile of this beautifully-balanced and well-paced red. Spicy, warm, juicy black currant and cassis flavours drench the palate and linger throughout the luxurious finish. There are ripe tannins, moderating tang and enough fruit to carry this forward to 2011, if you can wait. Drinking well now, either on its own or when poured alongside rack of lamb. (VH)


Elderton Shiraz 2004
Barossa Valley, South Australia $28.95 (713024)
Lifted red licorice and dark berry fruit aromas waft from this medium-bodied beauty from a well-respected producer of fine wines. The palate is treated to a layered attack of spicy Montmorency cherry, toasted oak and plum compote. This is held together nicely by ripe tannins and a good measure of tangy zest on the finish. Pair this with confidence to braised short ribs. (VH)


Grant Burge "The Holy Trinity" Grenache/Shiraz/Mourvèdre 2002
South Australia $34.95 (726802)
A subdued, funky nose of dried crushed fruit, incense and gamey aromas open the door to this round and ready-to-go medium-bodied red. The red cherry and currant fruit flavour is clean and pure. It is well-balanced with a lovely currant and spice finish. Not as robust as many GSMs, still very attractive. (VH)


Leconfield Shiraz 2003
McLaren Vale, South Australia $24.95 (927590)
Spiced black plum and toasty oak aromas burst from the glass. This stunningly rich, deep and concentrated drop offers cinnamon, ripe juicy black Bing cherry and kirsch-like flavours wrapped in a silky smooth frame. The lengthy finish is fruit forward and tangy, providing good grip, as well. Has the backbone to drink now to 2011. (VH)


Penfolds Bin 389 Cabernet/Shiraz 2003
South Australia $35.95 (309625)
2003 was a challenging vintage for most of SA, but this wine has turned out extremely well. Red currant and sweet (14.5% alcohol) spiced berry aromas lead one to a warm and complex blend. Firm tannins and pure red cherry fruit are to the fore on the palate whilst tar, licorice and cassis flavours give great interest and complexity to the finish. Drink over the next decade with any manner of grilled red meat. (VH)


Wolf Blass Gold Label Cabernet Sauvignon/Cabernet Franc 2002
Adelaide Hills, South Australia $29.95 (590265)
This opens with a lifted nose of smoke, oak and spice. A blend - 78% Cabernet Sauvignon and 22% Cabernet Franc - it offers red berry fruit with some green notes, moderating acidity and noticeable tannin. Well balanced, it will drink well now, after a 3 hour decant, to 2015. All Wolf Blass wines, even the super premium line, are wisely sealed under screw cap. A bold move; you must admire their total commitment. (VH)


Wolf Blass Gold Label Shiraz 2003
Barossa, South Australia $29.95 (590273)
Pepper, spice and red plum aromas form the lovely nose. The fruit flavours, sweet (15% alcohol) black cherry and black plum, are well entwined with oak, firm tannins and a dollop of tang. You will experience deft balance and a robust finish that is dominated by pure berry fruit and the ripe tannin structure. All this portends a generous drinking window now to 2012. Pair to grilled and garlicked lamb tenderloin. (VH)

Momo Sauvignon Blanc 2006
Marlborough, South Island $17.95 (009167)
Wisely sealed under screw cap, the energetic nose bursts forth with zingy lime and grassy, nettle aromas. A bit austere at present, will be much better in spring, the flavours are taut and in the citrus and peach zones. The lengthy finish is clean and pleasantly refreshing. Will match well to grilled fish drizzled with freshly-squeezed lemon. (VH)

Domaine Christian Moreau Chablis 2005
AOC Chablis 1er Cru Vaillon $34.95 (013664)
This is superb Chablis that is textbook in its traditional dry style, while managing a glorious plush texture. A pungent nose of citrus zest and sharp herbaceous aromas forms the segue to the well structured wine. It exhibits pit fruit and green apple flavours, a racy spine of tang and lively clean finish. This was built to wash down freshly-shucked oysters under a gentle squeeze of lemon. (VH)


Francis Blanchet Pouilly Fumé Cuvée Calcite 2005
AOC Pouilly Fumé $21.95 (012013)
Wonderful Sauvignon Blanc in a 'new world' style we have come to associate with the Marlborough region of New Zealand. All the usual suspects - a grassy and sharply herbaceous nose, gooseberry and citrus on the palate and an ultra clean finish redolent of lemon, grapefruit and white peach. All that to say, a delicious wine. (VH)

Marie de Beauregard Chinon 2005
AOC Chinon $21.95 (007252)
A pleasing and subdued nose of spice and floral aromas is the precursor to this medium-bodied red. Expect tangy, ripe and clean fruit flavours of cranberry and red cherry. The finish exhibits good balance and additional tangy cranberry flavours. Drinking at optimum now, pair with lasagna or any pasta dish in a rich tomato sauce. (VH)


E. Guigal Crozes-Hermitage 2003
AOC Crozes-Hermitage $25.95 (704908)
Dark and brooding in the glass this offers pleasant aromas of dark berry fruit and leather. Montmorency cherry, black olive and black currant flavours abound on this medium to full-bodied Syrah. Eighteen months in oak and 35 year old vines coalesce to add richness and complexity. It also offers a lengthy and fruit-forward, tangy finish. (VH)


Paul Jaboulet Domaine de Thalabert 2003
AOC Crozes-Hermitage $32.95 (720466)
Opening with a pungent nose of serious spice box and black plum compote, you will find an amalgam of flavours including sweet and medicinal cherries, stewed red berry fruit and a zesty streak of tang. This will pour well alongside osso bucco or lamb daube. (VH)


Château Boucassé Vieilles Vignes 2000
AOC Madiran $37.95 (677294)
Smoke and oak pour from the glass of this gorgeous red from the doyen of Madiran and owner of Chateau Montus, Alain Brumont. From 100% Tannat, the opaque nectar in the glass exudes aromas of mocha and black cherry. Oodles of dark, rich, juicy flavours drench the palate - bramble berry, currant and spiced black plum. There are ripe tannins and moderating acidity to give structure and balance. A wine that collectors and quaffers alike must consider. Drink now, after a 4 hour decant, to 2020 and beyond. (VH)

Eugen Wehrheim Siegerrebe Auslese 2003
QmP Rheinhessen, Niersteiner Findling $20.95 (010447)
The nose on this is stunning. Lifted and perfumed aromas of rosewater, Turkish delight and East Indian spices form the gorgeous aromatic profile. Off-dry and leaning more toward restrained than robust, the flavours are in the spicy tropical fruit zone on a medium-bodied frame. A short to medium finish, it would match up perfectly to spicy Asian cuisine. (VH)

Anselmi Capitel Foscarino Bianco 2005
IGT Veneto $22.95 (746164)
A unique and lifted nose of nettles, green apple and floral notes form the segue to this light-bodied gem. You will discover gobs of stone fruit, peaches and nectarines to the fore, with oodles of zesty tang for balance. A silky smooth and lengthy finish helps showcase this wine as the perfect foil to linguini pasta in a clam sauce. (VH)

Dievole Chianti Classico 2003
DOCG Chianti Classico $24.95 (444448)
An original fresco in the winery's private chapel, chronicles Villa Dievole's beginnings in 1090, almost a millennium ago! Loads of tarry notes infused with a lovely fragrance of violets open up this medium-bodied deftly-balanced Sangiovese. From a blistering vintage this shows no sign of that with its tangy, rich and concentrated palate of bramble berry flavours and ripe, but firm tannins. Drink now to 2011 with braised short ribs. (VH)


Frescobaldi Mormoreto 2003
IGT Toscana $59.95 (951210)
The opaque liquid offers a subdued nose of prunes and floral notes then stuns the senses with relentless waves of sweet, rich, concentrated fruit flavours of black berry, cherry and cassis. Ripe, firm and perceptible tannins provide structure and mouth feel while the warm, lengthy and luxurious finish is monumental. Drink 2009 to 2016. (VH)


Bertani Amarone 2002
DOC Amarone Della Valpolicella Valpantena $38.95 (013417)
You will find prune, earthy and stewed fruit aromas emanating from this almost delicate, medium-bodied offering. Sweet cherry and black raspberry flavours abound on the mid-palate and lovely long finish. This warm wine will drink well now to 2012. You may want to sip on its own or pair to osso bucco and truffle-infused risotto. (VH)


Remo Farina Ripasso Superiore 2003
DOC Valpolicella Classico $14.95 (999946)
The method of vinification is well documented and this Ripasso is one of the lighter-styled offerings. Expect spice, incense plus cherry aromas and flavours right through to the medium-length finish. The finish adds on some cranberry nuances. Ready to go now when matched to pizza, lasagne and pasta in a tomato sauce. (VH)

Alvaro Palacios Les Terrasses 2004
DOC Priorat $38.95 (977843)
From one of the pioneers and icons in resurrecting the 12th century Priorato region of N. Spain. Currant and spice box aromas form the perfumed nose of this medium-bodied red. Spiced black plum and tarry cherries coat the palate while the finish adds on a layer of ripe tannin and moderating acidity. Good to go now until 2011; I suggest pasta puttenesca as a match. (VH)

Caliterra Sauvignon Blanc Reserva 2005
Valle de Curicó Chile $11.15 (275909)
A Gold Medal winner at the recent Ottawa Wine and Food Show, it offers a lifted nose of grassy nettles and citrus. Light to medium-bodied, the fruit flavours of green apple and tangy honeydew melon are zippy and refreshing. Would marry well to a mixed green salad with crumbled chèvre. (VH


Funky Llama Chardonnay 2004
Argentina $9.95 (614 677)
The 'critters' get bigger; anyone for a tyrannosaurus rex? That aside, it's what's in, not on the bottle that counts and this adds up to a pleasant drop. Perfumed aromas and flavours of vanilla, ripe peaches and pears work their way through this lighter-styled offering. It has nice balance and finishes clean and refreshing. (VH)


Funky Llama Shiraz 2004
Argentina $9.95 (614685)
This is a huge crowd-pleaser with gobs of sweet, rich and concentrated jammy black berry fruit on the palate and finish. It's plush and ready to go now. Drinking well on its own, it would not be out of place poured alongside your favourite pasta and Italian sausage dish. The price to quality ratio pendulum is swung heavily in your favour. (VH)


E & J Gallo Cabernet Sauvignon 2000
Sonoma County $17.00 (354274)
An aged and age-worthy Cab at a fraction the price one might expect to pay. It was picked at 24 Brix - aka ripe grapes and exhibits a mellow side (14% Merlot) with plum and ripe cherry flavours. The tannins are there, but tamed; coupled with the moderating acidity you are treated to deft balance and a clean finish. Gold medal recipient at the recent Ottawa Wine and Food show. Pour now to 2009. (VH)


Jackson-Triggs Proprieter's Reserve Chardonnay 2004
VQA Okanagan Valley $12.10 (665240)
Winner of Gold and Best of Show Dry White at the recent Ottawa Wine and Food show, this showcases BCs fabulous wines. Smoke and oak drift off the lifted nose while the flavours and texture are classic oaky Chard - creamy and redolent of green apples with hints of ripe, tropical fruit and vanilla. All this flavour and texture, within a medium-bodied frame and well-balanced finish, makes for very good value. (VH)


Leon Beyer Riesling Reserve 2005
AOC Alsace $15.20 (81471)
This is a gorgeous dry traditional-styled gem, with minerality and cleansing tanginess to the fore. With no effort to follow the crowd, the present Beyer family wine maker is the 13th in succession. It offers a delightful glass of refreshing Riesling. There are balancing flavours of pit fruit and citrus that make this the perfect foil to choucroute garnie. (VH)


Mad Dogs and Englishmen Monastrell/Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz 2004
DO Jumilla, Spain $13.95 (669135)
This red blend, 60% Monastrell aka Mourvédre, won Gold and Best of Show Dry Red at the 2006 Ottawa Wine and Food show. Expect a sexy nose of savoury, earthy and chalky aromas then a glorious mouthful of sweet (14% alcohol) ripe, red cherry and currant flavours. Well balanced with good tang and a medium-body, it finishes with more fruit and drying tannins. Well-paced and well-priced. (VH)


Pillitteri Estates Winery Gewürztraminer/Riesling 2004
VQA Niagara Peninsula $11.95 (349126)
You will love the lifted nose of spice box and rosewater and love even more the zippy layers of tropical fruit and citrus flavours that wash over the palate in waves. It's tangy and terrific, delivering that yin and yang delightful sweet and dry experience that pairs so well to spicy Asian cuisine. This is very favourably priced. (VH)


Monkey Bay Sauvignon Blanc 2006
Marlborough, New Zealand $14.50 (620062)
A lot going on in the perfumed nose and it's all in the grassy, herbaceous zone. In a tasting of 8 Kiwi SBs this one clearly stood out. The flavours are luscious and memorable as they coat the palate with sweet tropical fruit salad and zingy citrus zest. This has the structure and balance to be sipped proudly on its own or be matched to spicy Asian cuisine - try shrimp spring rolls. (VH)

Henry of Pelham Cabernet Franc 2005
VQA Niagara Peninsula $13.95
Dusty red cherry and currant aromas waft from the glass of this medium-bodied red from one of Niagara's top wineries. Expect a round and warm offering, after a 3 hour decant, that showcases clean and pure plum and black currant flavours with beguiling hints of spice and toasty notes. Generous tang and soft tannins complete the medium-length finish. Pair this to a home-made creamy macaroni and cheese dish. (VH)

Liberty School Chardonnay 2004
Central Coast, California approx. $19.95 (960120)
Gorgeous aromas of tropical fruit and vanilla waft from the glass of this medium-bodied well-balanced beauty. The mouth feel and texture is creamy, from barrel-fermented vinification, while the flavours are intense and involved. They include pear, apple and gobs of honeyed stone fruit plus a tantalizing hint of caramel. It finishes zesty and clean, suggesting a pairing to a roast Sunday bird with your favourite stuffing. (VH)


Liberty School Syrah 2004
California, approx. $19.95 (942383)
With fruit sourced primarily from the cooler Paso Robles area, this medium-bodied red is stunning. Aromas of pepper and dark, ripe berry fruit waft from the glass. A 3% splash of Viognier gives a lift to the fruit-forward flavours of rich, sweet cherry and bramble berry. French oak is present, but deftly integrated into the elegant structure of ripe tannins and moderate zest. Paired perfectly when poured alongside rack of lamb. Well priced. (VH)

Austin Hope "Hope Family Vineyard" Syrah 2003
Paso Robles $49.95 (686121)
With full-bore fruit, astonishing complexity and immense concentration, this could be as far from a Rhône-style Syrah as the Rhône Valley is from, well, Paso Robles. Made from grapes sourced from root-stock at Ch. Beaucastel, this shows the authenticity of Syrah: a seam of sweet, ripe fruit at the core, enveloped by layers of dark fruit and berry flavours, all generously accented by pepper and spice. Drink it now with a well-seasoned grilled rack of lamb or hold it another five years. (RP)

Liberty School Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
California $19.95 (738823) Vintages Essential
Skylar Stuck, export manager of Treana, which makes Liberty School, decribes this as "a step and a half above any other Cab we've made." This is the new vintage (the 15th) of what I think is one of the great buys in the LCBO. It over-delivers on everything, with compelling, concentrated black fruit aromas and flavours, and attractive and tangy texture, sweet tannins and a long finish. This is a natural for rich red meat dishes. (RP)


Pillitteri Estates Winery Cabernet Franc 2002
VQA Niagara Peninsula $17.95 (13763)
One often hears musings as to the feasibility of growing red grapes, other than Pinot Noir, in Niagara given its cool climate. Hello, they need to taste this. Gorgeous aromatics of dark berry fruit waft from the glass of this full-bodied rich and concentrated offering. Bing cherry and black currant flavours abound on the palate while the lengthy finish layers on ripe tannin and moderate tang, both providing structure and balance. (VH)

Carmella Estates Winery 'Terroir Twist' 2005
VQA Ontario $17.95
This is from100% Estate grown, Prince Edward County fruit from one of the most respected wineries in this burgeoning wine region. You can catch an early wave by trying this now as they are not far off gaining their own appellation. 73% Riesling, 17% Pinot Gris and 10% Chardonnay, this offers mineral and citrus aromas on the nose and lovely clean green apple, pear and more citrus on the well balanced finish. Match up to grilled white fish with a drizzle of freshly-squeezed lemon. Order from their website, in cases of six, at www.carmelaestates.ca.

Konzelmann Riesling Ice Wine 2004
VQA Niagara Peninsula 375 ml $53.95
A stunning wine producing a fabulous wine-tasting experience. The perfumed aromas are redolent of marmalade peel and ultra-ripe nectarines. The unctuous and palate-drenching flavours are an amalgam of tropical fruits and citrus peel with perfect balance in acidity to keep it laser-like clean on the finish. Serve well chilled, as dessert or with fruit flan. Winner of Gold and Best of Show Sweet White at 2006 Ottawa Wine and Food show. Order via This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.. (VH)


Lailey Vineyard Vidal 2005
VQA Ontario $11.95
Wine maker Derek Barnett works wonders with this grape every vintage. Winner of yet another gold at the Ottawa Wine and Food Show, this offers gobs of bold flavours, citrus and tropical fruit salad, along with copious amounts of zesty tang and balancing sweetness on its medium-bodied frame. Versatile as a welcoming wine or paired to seafood drizzled with freshly squeezed lemon. Good value. Order direct from Lailey www.laileyvineyard.com . (VH)


Lailey Vineyard Cabernet 2004
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95
50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 37% Cabernet Franc and 13% Merlot, this classic Bordeaux blend opens with a nose redolent of black plums with some spice and savoury aromas. It drips with juicy black berry fruit and on a plush, medium-bodied frame. Expect a fruity well-balanced, warm and tangy finish that adds ripe tannins and an interesting vanilla note. Pour alongside grilled strip loin, done rare to medium-rare. Order direct from Lailey www.laileyvineyard.com. (VH)


Lailey Vineyards Select Late Harvest Vidal 2005
VQA Ontario $14.95 375 ml
This opens with a highly-perfumed nose of sweet ripe pineapple and other tropical fruit aromas. The mouth feel is simply glorious offering a creamy texture that is balanced off with tangy fruit flavours, nectarine and peach to the fore. The luxuriously sweet finish also offers caramel and melon. Stunning on its own, would pair well to fruit flans. Order direct from Lailey www.laileyvineyard.com. (VH)

Mountain Road Winery Company Cabernet Franc Reserve 2002
VQA Beamsville Bench $27.95
A Gold Medal winner in the All Canadian Wine Championship, this delivers smoky toast and oak aromas. It rips into high gear on the palate with richly concentrated, juicy cherry and back berry flavours. This is full-bodied and tannic, begging for time in the cellar. It will be nothing short of stunning 2009 to 2014. From a medium-sized, premium Niagara winery garnering considerable praise from oenophiles and the general public, alike. (VH)

Bedell Cellars Cupola 2002
North Fork of Long Island, New York $17.85
This flagship Bordeaux blend is 54% Merlot, 38% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot. It offers copious amounts of sweet and concentrated Bing cherry and dark berry fruit on the palate and finish. There are hints of dark chocolate, as well. The lengthy finish is refined and fruit-forward. Very well priced. Purchase by the case from Fay Barnes, Edward's Wine and Spirits (416) 405-8989. (VH)


Lammershoek 'Aprilskloof' Red-Red 2004
WO Swartland, South Africa $15.00
A truly international blend - 66% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Pinotage, 11% Zinfandel, 6% Merlot and 3% Grenache - it is round, plush, and richly concentrated. 12 months in oak plus being unfined and unfiltered add to the character of this wine. The flavours are dripping with sweet (14% alcohol) black berry fruit that washes in waves. The lengthy and layered finish is balanced by a moderate tang and nicely structured with ripe tannins. Order by the case from Bokke Inc. This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. with confidence. (VH)


Pikes 'Eastside' Shiraz 2003
Clare Valley, Australia $25.55
This beautifully-textured red hails from the cooler Polish Hill district, benefiting from an extended ripening period to deliver increased structure and elegance. Expect pepper, spice and vanilla aromas off the perfumed nose of this full-bodied gem. The juicy, rich and concentrated flavours wash in waves and are in the black berry and black currant zone. This is well balanced, offering a lengthy finish. We enjoyed ours at West End Station Bistro with rack of lamb and beef steak - both perfect matches. Order from www.smallwinemakers.ca. (VH)

Cheers, Vic and Rod

We use the following symbols when rating wines:

	Wines achieving nirvana
	Wines of excellence
	Wines well worth trying
	Wines below average, but drinkable
	Wines better avoided, unless desperate
	Represents a half star
	We both agree —a brilliant wine!
	Drink now and over the next 2 years
	Drink now and over the next 5 years
	Place in cellar