July 14, 2019 Newsletter
Newsletter Highlights include:
There are many more wines reviewed after the Vintages Release wines with most of them available in LCBO stores in both Vintages and in the front of the store and in Ontario wineries who will ship wine to your home. With over a dozen wines reviewed after the release, you’ll be certain to find some of interest and for purchase.
What is ‘Natural’ wine?
You’ll be seeing more of these on wine store shelves and will want to know. There’s a short piece on ‘Natural’ wines after the Vintages Release wines along with four examples and reviews from the highly respected Tawse Winery in Niagara—four times named ‘Canadian Winery of the Year’… in 2010, 2011, 2012 and 2016.
- Exceptional-value wine
– 6 of 28 wines in this newsletter meet strict quality-price guidelines. The wines range from $10.95 to $18.95 and are found throughout the newsletter and easily identified via the value checkmark above. Many in LCBO stores now and some on their way. Strict guidelines? Click here. - 95 points and over – no wine rang the ‘95 points and over’ bell in this newsletter
- Vic Picks – Georges Gardet ‘Cuvée Saint Flavy’ Brut Non-Vintage earned 89 points @ $43.95 found under Champagne; 2017 Castello Banfi “Principessa Gavia’ Gavi earned 92 points @ $19.95 found under Italy: White Wine; 2016 Carpineto Chianti Classico earned 92 points @ $19.95 found under Italy: Red Wine; 2015 Balbas ‘Barrica 5 Meses - Old Vines’ Tempranillo earned 88 points @ $15.95 found under Spain: Red Wine along with his exceptional-value wine reviews.
Vintages Release: July 20, 2019
Champagne
89
Georges Gardet ‘Cuvée Saint Flavy’ Brut Non-Vintage
AOC Champagne $43.95 (924654) 12.0% alcohol
This has an attractive nose of minerality, floral and heady citrus notes. There’s a lovely attack on the palate with a rush of white grapefruit and green apple flavours infused with spice and mineral nuances. It’s medium in weight and texture and offers a lingering finish that’s zesty and clean. There’s enough oomph for it to be paired with light appetizers and the more than fair price, as Champagne goes, allow it to be served as the welcoming wine at any upscale gathering—including a special evening for two. (Vic Harradine)
Sparkling Wine
89
Oyster Bay Sparkling Cuvée Rosé Non-Vintage
New Zealand $22.95 (280172) 12.0% alcohol
This attractive pink-hued sparkler is fashioned from 20% hand-harvested pinot noir and 80% low-yielding chardonnay, fermented in the Charmat, a.k.a. Cuve Close, method. It hustles from the bottle with an energetic mousse and aromas of red berry fruit and spice with hints of brioche. It delivers spirited and lively flavours of citrus and red currant interwoven with sweeter and riper cherry on the lip-smacking aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)
Ontario: Red Wine
89 
Calamus Estate Meritage 2016
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (10530) 13.0% alcohol
This is a value-packed, gorgeous, 50/50 blend of cabernet franc and cabernet sauvignon with aromas of smoky dark fruit, dry cherry, leather and a wisp of pepper. A harmonious stream of juicy black cherry, blackberry and cassis flavours mingle with silky tannin and bitter chocolate notes delighting the palate all the way in the long, dry, peppery finish. This medium-full bodied Bordeaux style blend has cellaring potential and also shines now alongside a well-seasoned, grilled-rare ribeye steak. Aerate/decant two hours before serving. (Louise Boutin)
Ontario: Rosé Wine
89 
Featherstone Rosé 2018
VQA Niagara Peninsula $15.95 (117861) 13.0% alcohol
This racy, eclectic blend—42% cabernet franc/26% gamay noir/24% merlot/8% pinot noir—is a rich electric pink in the glass. It offers aromas of eucalyptus and mixed spice before spreading over the palate with a tangy river of tart red currant and cranberry robed in sharp spice and oodles of tang. This is medium weight with generous mouthfeel and a lingering lip-smacking finish that keeps bringing you back for more. Pour with grilled calamari rings under a squeeze of fresh lemon or a charcuterie board. (Vic Harradine)
California: White Wine
91
First Press Chardonnay 2015
Napa Valley $24.95 (199810) 14.5% alcohol
Aromas of peach and green apple along with lactic and light wood notes open the door to a medium-bodied wash of ripe pear, peach and pineapple palate flavours veiled with butterscotch and vanilla notes nicely balanced with a tangy citrus presence. A five-month maturation in French and American oak plus malolactic conversion brings softness and elegance to this medium-full bodied white through to the lengthy delicious finish. Pour with baked cod loin. (Louise Boutin)
Argentina: Red Wine
89
La Posta ‘Estela Armando’ Bonarda 2017
Mendoza $15.95 (261586) 13.0% alcohol
Aromas of floral and earthy notes lead to a persistent stream of palate-bathing flavours with pie cherry and spice mingling nicely with dark chocolate, sweet vanilla and wisps of tarry notes. This is medium-plus weight with good texture and a dry, medium-length finish and aftertaste. Pour alongside meat-laden pizza, lasagna or beef fajitas. (Vic Harradine)
• Fruit for the following 2017 Wakefield ‘Estate Label’ Chardonnay was harvested in the Clare Valley after dark quickly chilled and whole berry pressed. The majority of the juice was filled to French oak barrels—10% new, 20% one year and the remainder two and three year-old—for fermentation. A small parcel was fermented using wild yeast and a small parcel fermented in stainless steel. All were lees stirred for four months prior to fermentation ceasing. After 10 months oak maturation, wine was blended, stabilised and fined in stainless steel prior to bottling.
Australia: White Wine
90
Wakefield ‘Estate Label’ Chardonnay 2017
Clare Valley, Australia $16.95 (711556) 13.5% alcohol
Oaky/nutty notes mingle with pit fruit aromas. It washes over the palate with flavours of piquant spice and lemon tang interwoven with pineapple and honeydew melon. It’s medium-plus bodied and nicely textured with more than its fair share of charm and pizzazz. It finishes lengthy and lingering with flavour replays from the palate and plenty of lip-smacking tang. Pour with roast beer-can chicken or Caesar salad layered with thin slices of chicken breast. (Vic Harradine)
Australia: Red Wine
88
Kilikanoon ‘The Lackey’ Shiraz 2017
Australia $17.95 (5199) 14.5% alcohol
This smooth, full-bodied, 100% shiraz from Kilikanoon is a perennial favourite. It opens up with a funky nose that quickly dissipates with a vigorous swirl to leave the stage to dark cherry, blackberry, toasty oak and tobacco aromas. It flows easily on the palate with melted tannin carrying flavours of sweet dark cherry, blackberry jam, vanilla and a hint of eucalyptus. This is a crowd pleaser and will shine with baby, back ribs generously mopped with spicy barbecue sauce. (Louise Boutin)
New Zealand: White Wine
92
Thornbury Sauvignon Blanc 2017
Marlborough, South Island $18.95 (734798) 13.0% alcohol
This exceptional-value, Marlborough sauvignon blanc is a fabulous example of a softer style without losing anything in terms of nervy acidity. The lively nose of racy citrus zest and savory herb aromas set the table for a smorgasbord of flavour with racy lemon-lime, grilled pineapple and notions of ruby red grapefruit on the balanced and beautiful palate. It’s medium weight with good mouthfeel and plenty of lip-smacking tang. It finishes in a blaze, crisp, clean and refreshing. Delicious sipped on its own, it will truly shine with mussels steamed in white wine. (Vic Harradine)
France: Red Wine
• The following 2016 Gérard Bertrand Minervois Syrah/Carignan was hand harvested with each varietal grape kept separate. After malolactic conversion and both undergoing partial carbonic maceration, they were blended and matured eight months in 225L French oak barrel followed by further bottle maturation before release.
90
Gérard Bertrand Minervois Syrah/Carignan 2016
AOP Minervois, France $17.95 (952804) 13.5% alcohol
Lively, fresh aromas of dark cherry and black currant set the table for a smorgasbord of palate flavours with red cherry blueberry, mocha and sweet bramble berry to the fore. This is medium weight with good texture, balance and tang. It dishes up more of the same with palate replays on the finish and aftertaste. It sips well on its own and pours exceptionally well with grilled red meats, gourmet sausages or beef stroganoff. (Vic Harradine)
90
Gérard Bertrand ‘Grands Terroirs – Les Aspres’ Syrah/Mourvèdre/Grenache 2015
AOP Côtes du Roussillon $19.95 (413245) 14.0% alcohol
Aspres means arid in Catalan which is an appropriate descriptor for the Mediterranean climate in this region that borders Catalonia. Aromas of ripe dark fruit—Bing cherry, blackberry and blueberry—combine with mild baking spice, lilac and savoury herb introducing a cool wash of juicy berry flavour mingling with ripe cassis and fennel seed prolonging a fresh lengthy finish. This has excellent acidity and ripe tannin. It’s value-packed, medium-bodied and extremely versatile at the table. Pair with your favourite grilled or simmered meat—definitely a crowd pleaser. (Louise Boutin)
Italy: White Wine
• The following 2017 Castello Banfi “Principessa Gavia’ Gavi was sourced from 100% indigenous, estate-grown, cortese grapes, gently pressed and fermented under 18°C for twenty days in stainless steel enhancing freshness and delicate aromas in the wine. The winery began in 1860 then purchased by Banfi in the late 1970s.
92
Castello Banfi “Principessa Gavia’ Gavi 2017
DOCG Piedmont $19.95 (250696) 12.5% alcohol
This is a well paced and well priced Vintages Essentials wine, always available in select LCBO stores. Straw, citrus and wisps of honeyed aromas precede an explosion of flavour—lemon curd, sprigs of herbs and hints of pineapple. It coats the palate infusing the clean, refreshing finish and aftertaste. This is light-medium weight with good mouthfeel and a boatload of pizzazz and tangy acidity. Pour as an aperitif or with pan-seared white fish or poached scallops. (Vic Harradine)
Italy: Red Wine
92
Carpineto Chianti Classico 2016
DOCG Chianti Classico $19.95 (356048) 13.0% alcohol
The perfumed nose of this value-laden, 80% sangiovese/20% canaiolo red blend offers up aromas of sandalwood, piquant spice and berry fruit. On the palate it delivers persistent purity of fruit—lively red cherry and red currant flavours dominate throughout—deft balance and a profoundly tang-laden and delicious finish and aftertaste. This is medium bodied and well textured with a generous amount of finesse and charm. Pour with rare-grilled striploin. (Vic Harradine)
Spain: Red Wine
88
Balbas ‘Barrica 5 Meses - Old Vines’ Tempranillo 2015
DO Ribera del Duero $15.95 (543710) 14.0% alcohol
The ‘5 meses’ refers to the 5 months this old-vine tempranillo spent maturing in oak. Red licorice, baking spice and stewed plum aromas introduce this full-bodied, easy-drinking red. A rich, luscious river of flavour blankets the palate with red cherry, blueberry and black plum to the fore along with baking spice, toasty bits and savoury herbs. The lingering finish is balanced and lip-smacking good. At this price… load up the trunk. (Vic Harradine)
New in Vintages
• The following 2018 Pierre Sparr Géwurztraminer is a Vintages Essentials product always available in select LCBO retail stores.
91
Pierre Sparr Géwurztraminer 2018
AOC Alsace, France $17.95 (373373) 13.5% alcohol
A dominant and alluring aroma of rosewater provides segue to this spice-laden generously textured gem. It dazzles the palate with piquant spice carried on a medium-plus bodied river of off-dry palate flavours—lychee nut, lemon pie filling and grapefruit zest—that cleans up nicely on the mouth-watering finish and aftertaste. This is crisp and refreshing, making it a great dance partner for quiche Lorraine, pan-seared fish or baked ham. (Vic Harradine)
• The following 2018 Tawse ‘Sketches of Niagara’ Rosé is a Vintages Essentials product always available in select LCBO retail stores.
91
Tawse ‘Sketches of Niagara’ Rosé 2018
VQA Niagara Peninsula $17.95 (172643) 12.5% alcohol
This gorgeous Rosé is a cabernet franc/cabernet sauvignon/gamay/pinot noir blend. It’s salmon pink hued with lifted aromas of orange blossom and mixed cherry/berry fruit. Tang-laced flavours of mandarin orange, piquant spice and crunchy red fruit—pie cherry, currant and raspberry—cascade over the palate with persistent purity. It finishes as it began with delightful flavour, mouth-watering tang and is quite moreish. Tasty on its own, you can also pour with pan-seared salmon, roast bird or a verjus-dressed green salad and chèvre. (Vic Harradine)
New in the LCBO
• The following 2018 Farnese ‘Fantini’ Rosé from the DOC Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo This DOC is to Italy what Tavel is to France, producing only Rosato, aka Rosé, wine. The principal grape is Montepulciano d’Abruzzo and their wines must have at least 85% of it in the bottle.
90
Farnese ‘Fantini’ Rosé 2018
DOC Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo, Italy $10.95 (35342) 13.0% alcohol
A lovely salmon hue in the glass, aromas of roses and strawberry abound. There’s a tang-laden flow of red fruit—cherry, strawberry and raspberry—delivered on a satin-smooth, medium-bodied, nicely textured underpinning. It finishes crisp and refreshing. This really shines when sipped on a warm sunny day, either on its own or when paired with a charcuterie board, or an olive-oiled salad of arugula decorated with crumbled chèvre, or a bagel slathered with cream cheese and topped with smoked salmon, thinly sliced red onion and capers. (Vic Harradine)
New in Ontario Wineries
Order the following by the case for daily office, home or restaurant delivery direct from the winery either by using this link Closson Chase, by phone 1.888.201.2300 or email This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. or pick them up from the winery 629 Closson Road, Hillier, Ontario K0K 2J0 – it’s an easy 2 or so hour drive, or less, from the GTA or Ottawa and environs - Here’s a map.
• The following 2017 Closson Chase ‘Vineyard’ Pinot Noir was sourced from two premium estate vineyards—90% South Clos, 10% Churchside—then fermented in a large oak fermenter and matured eighteen months in French oak barrel, less than 10% new.
91
Closson Chase ‘Vineyard’ Pinot Noir 2017
VQA Prince Edward County $34.95 (145888) 12.5% alcohol
Alluring aromas of mixed spice, beetroot and dark ripe cherry waft easily from this PEC pinot. Red berry and passionfruit palate flavours interweave with tangy pie cherry and wisps of drying tannin. It’s medium weight with very good mouthfeel and plenty of mouth-watering acidity on the back palate and aftertaste. Aerate/decant a couple of hours pouring with duck confit or tourtière. (Vic Harradine)
• The following 2017 Closson Chase ‘Churchside’ Pinot Noir was sourced 100% from this vineyard from hand-picked fruit. It was fermented in a large oak fermenters and matured 18 months in French oak barrel, 20% new.
92
Closson Chase ‘Churchside’ Pinot Noir 2017
VQA Prince Edward County $39.95 12.5% alcohol
Light-ruby hued, aromas of toasty notes, red cherry and mocha waft from the glass. This races over the palate with laser-like precision riding on a streak of bracing tang and flavours of pomegranate and sour cherry. It’s medium bodied with excellent tang and a lengthy aftertaste. There’s good structure and purity of fruit throughout. Aerate/decant two or three hours before service and pour with medium-rare roast beef or breaded veal cutlets. (Vic Harradine)
91
Closson Chase ‘KJ Watson Vineyard’ Pinot Gris 2018
VQA Four Mile Creek, Niagara Peninsula $22.95 (469445) 12.5% alcohol
This was 100% stainless steel fermented and saw no oak. Aromas of honeysuckle and pit fruit abound on the nose. It dishes up a medium-full bodied, tang-infused and generously textured mouthful of flavour with lemon curd and grapefruit zest mingling with ripe pear and saline minerality. This finishes lengthy, clean and refreshing with plenty of pizzazz. Pour with Alsatian onion tart or baked ham dotted with cloves. (Vic Harradine)
88
Closson Chase ‘Mosaic’ – Charmat Method 2018
VQA Ontario $29.95 11.8% alcohol
Sourced from chardonnay fruit from the Niagara, KJ Watson Vineyard, this was 50% older-barrel fermented and 50% temperature-controlled stainless steel fermented spending 45 days on its lees. Lifted aromas of floral notes and mandarin orange waft easily from the glass. A profuse mousse crowns the wine when poured. It blankets the palate with flavours of peach skin, doughy notes and grapefruit pith finishing dry and crisp. Pour alongside freshly shucked mussels, prawn ceviche or sushi. (Vic Harradine)
• Order the following wine by the bottle(s) or case(s) for daily delivery to home, office or restaurant online from Henry of Pelham or, on your next visit, pick up bottle(s) or case(s) from the winery at 1469 Pelham Rd, St. Catharines ON. Here’s a map.
91
Henry of Pelham ‘Estate’ Sauvignon Blanc 2018
VQA Short Hills Bench $19.95 12.7% alcohol
Floral notes and honeydew melon aromas precede a slightly off-dry stream of interesting palate flavours with honeyed pit fruit giving way to citrussy tang on the lip-smacking, lengthy finish. Production is limited to 300 cases; it’s very good value, well balanced with creamy smooth mouthfeel and plenty of tang on the aftertaste. Gorgeous sipped on its own, it also pours well with pan-seared or beer-battered Tilapia or spicy Asian cuisine. (Vic Harradine)
• The following wines from Tawse winery and Redstone can be purchased by the bottle(s) case (s) for home, office or restaurant delivery online at Tawse Winery, by Email This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. by phone +1 905 562 9500 or for pick up by bottle(s) or case(s) directly at the winery 3955 Cherry Ave, Vineland ON. Here’s a map.
There are no ‘official’ definitions and no official regulations, that I’m aware of, that apply to ‘Natural’ wines. At their basic level one might expect: grapes are grown sustainably, organically or biodynamically, are hand harvested and fermented by native yeasts. As well, the wine should have nothing added as far as enzymes or acidity and have been minimally, or not at all, sulphured, and that they are lightly or not at all, fined nor filtered. One might, but not necessarily, discover ‘funky’ aromas and flavours, possibly from ‘wild’ yeasts, plus high overall acidity. One might want to drink these wines within the first two or three years in bottle.
The goal might be described as, ‘letting the fruit transform from its living state on the vine to becoming a living wine in the bottle with minimal intervention and with as little as possible added—e.g. sulphur and cultured yeast—and as little as possible taken away—e.g. lees—during the winemaking process.’ (Vic Harradine)
• The following four wines from Tawse Winery are labelled ‘Natural’ wines and are available at the winery and for home delivery from the winery (see far above) and select, wine-friendly, wine-knowledgeable restaurants.
93
Tawse Quarry Road Vineyard ‘Natural Wine’ Chardonnay 2018
VQA Vinemount Ridge $36.95 12.5% alcohol
This was hand-harvested from organic fruit, barrel fermented using wild yeast and spent eight months maturing in French oak then was bottled unfiltered, with its lees, with no sulphur added. Aromas of apple, pear and wisps of caramel precede a medium-bodied, nicely textured river of palate-bathing flavours of red apple and tang-laden, lemon-lime citrus persisting through the mineral-infused, mouth-watering finish and aftertaste. This pairs well with lemon chicken or pan-seared fish under a squeeze of fresh lemon. (Vic Harradine)
92
Tawse Redfoot Vineyard ‘Natural Wine’ Gamay Noir 2018
VQA Lincoln Lakeshore $29.95 12.5% alcohol
This was hand harvested and spent eight months maturing in French oak and was bottled unfiltered, with its lees, with no sulphur added. Alluring aromas of dark berry fruit, savoury notes and notions of Ribena provide segue to a rich stream of ripe black plum and tang-infused black currant. This is ruby hued, medium weight with good mouthfeel. It finishes balanced, lengthy, dry and lip-smacking good with traces of herbal notes. Lovely sipped on its own, it’s also versatile at the table—pour with grilled steak, roast beef or roast bird. (Vic Harradine)
92
Tawse Quarry Road Vineyard ‘Natural Wine’ Pinot Noir 2018
VQA Vinemount Ridge $35.95 13.0% alcohol
This is certified organic and biodynamic, was hand harvested, spent eight months maturing in French oak and was bottled unfiltered, with its lees, with no sulphur added. Black cherry and black currant jam aromas on the nose, this blankets the palate with tang-laden flavours of pie cherry and black raspberry underpinned by drying tannin. It’s medium-bodied with good texture and plenty of pizzazz. Aerate/decant one or two hours before serving with chicken pot pie or duck confit. (Vic Harradine)
91
Tawse Redfoot Vineyard ‘Natural Wine’ Cabernet Franc 2018
VQA Lincoln Lakeshore $28.95 13.0% alcohol
This was hand-harvested, spent eight months maturing in French oak and was bottled unfiltered, with its lees, with no sulphur added. Aromas of cherry/berry fruit, smoky notes and pencil shavings introduce a generous mouthful of palate-coating flavours with tangy red fruit—cherry and passionfruit—mingling with wisps of cassis and drying tannins. Dark-ruby hued, well structured, medium-bodied and nicely textured, it finishes dry with palate replays. Aerate/decant for one or two hours pouring with braised beef or pulled pork sliders. (Vic Harradine)
91
Tawse Quarry Road Vineyard ‘Estate’ Pinot Noir Rosé 2018
VQA Vinemount Ridge $27.95 12.0% alcohol
This 100% Pinot Noir rosé was sourced from eleven-year-old vines and is certified organic and biodynamic. It’s salmon pink and orange hued with aromas of red berry fruit, floral notes and wisps of flinty minerality. It streaks over the palate with great élan as a crisp clean shower of crunchy red currant and pie cherry flavours intertwine with piquant mineral notes. It’s medium bodied and nicely textured with a lengthy aftertaste that’s mouth-watering and clean as a whistle. Pour with roast turkey and all the fixings or with chilled, red pepper soup. (Vic Harradine)
• The following 2017 Redstone Wines Pinot Noir Rosé Sparkling Wine is vintage-dated, 100% hand-harvested Pinot Noir fashioned Méthode Traditionnelle—aka, made in the method of Champagne—spending 12 months in bottle on its lees before disgorgement—aka, expelling the lees.
91
Redstone Wines Pinot Noir Rosé Sparkling Wine 2017
VQA Niagara Peninsula $29.95 12.0% alcohol
Aromas of strawberry and floral notes can be coaxed from the glass of this well-priced gem. It pours with a vigorous mousse that eventually sends up seemingly endless streams of fine-bead bubbles winding their way to the top of the glass. Soft strawberry and tangy blood orange dominate palate flavours while cleaning up crisp, clean and refreshing on the finish and aftertaste. Serve on its own or with pan-seared salmon under a squeeze of fresh lemon. (Vic Harradine)
Cheers, Louise, Lisa, Dave, Vic