June 3, 2019 Newsletter
Newsletter Highlights include:
There are many more wines reviewed after the Vintages Release wines with most of them available in LCBO stores in both Vintages and in the front of the store and in Ontario wineries and from Ontario wine agents who will ship wine to your home. You’ll be surprised at how many wines are reviewed there and how many of them are lower-priced and exceptional-value wines. With over two dozen wines reviewed after the release, you’ll be certain to find many of interest and for purchase.
- Exceptional-value wine
– 12 of 49 wines in this newsletter meet strict quality-price guidelines. The wines range from $11.10 to $18.95 and are found throughout the newsletter and easily identified via the value checkmark above. Many in LCBO stores now and some on their way. Strict guidelines? Click here. - 95 points and over – no wine rang the ‘95 points and over’ bell in this newsletter
- Louise Loves – 2016 Cave Spring Estate Chardonnay Musqué earned 90 points @ $17.95 found under Ontario: White Wine.
- Vic Picks – 2017 Pelee Island ‘Lola’ Cabernet Franc Rosé earned 88 points @ $15.95 found under Ontario Rosé Wine; 2017 Wayne Gretzy ‘Whisky Oak Aged’ Red earned 92 points @ $19.95 found under Ontario: Red Wine; 2017 Closson Chase ‘Vineyard’ Chardonnay earned 92 points @ $29.95 found under New in Ontario Wineries, along with his exceptional-value wine reviews.
Vintages Release: June 8, 2019
Ontario: Rosé Wine
• June 8, 2019 is National Rosé Day …who knew? For a wine style that’s been made for over 2000 years, it certainly has surged recently in awareness, availability and sales. Here are four VQA Rosé wines being released today, listed in alphabetical order.
90
Château des Charmes ‘Cuvèe d’Andrée’ Rosé 2018
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $16.95 (333260) 12.5% alcohol
Aromas of sliced strawberry, mixed spice and ripe red cherry abound from this 100% pinot noir rosé. It captures the palate with an endless stream of soft tang delivered on flavours of crunchy red fruit—cherry, currant and pomegranate. It’s medium weight with good mouthfeel and a lingering, tangy, lip-smacking finish. Pour on its own as refreshing sipper on a warm day or pair with all manner of deli platter or with oil and vinegar-dressed arugula salad topped with crumbled chèvre or blue-veined cheese. (Vic Harradine)
90
Fielding Estate Winery Rosé 2018
VQA Niagara Peninsula $15.95 (53421) 11.8% alcohol
This gamay/pinot noir blend offers subtle aromas of strawberry and red cherry before dazzling the palate with a rush of tang-infused ruby red grape grapefruit interlaced with freshly sliced strawberry and notions of cherry cordial. This is medium bodied with good mouthfeel and a lingering, lip-smacking finish and aftertaste. Pour with grilled salmon under a squeeze of fresh lemon or steamed mussels. (Vic Harradine)
88
Pelee Island ‘Lola’ Cabernet Franc Rosé 2017
VQA South Island, Lake Erie North Shore $15.95 (552497) 12.5% alcohol
Aromas and flavours of freshly picked strawberry, tangy cranberry and ruby red grapefruit dominate the nose and palate intertwined with notions of mixed spice and excellent acidity prevailing through the palate and infusing the finish then aftertaste. Pour well chilled on its own or with a mixed deli board. The price-quality balance tips well in your favour. (Vic Harradine)
90
Speck Brothers ‘Three of Hearts’ Rosé 2018
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (552562) 11.5% alcohol
This value-laden, gorgeous blend—88% Pinot Noir/12% Pinot Gris—offers up aromas of floral notes, red fruit and citrus. It bathes the palate with a medium-bodied juicy and tangy wash of freshly picked strawberry, mandarin orange and grilled, sugared pink grapefruit. It’s fresh on the palate and through the lingering finish and aftertaste. Lovely on its own, you can pour alongside pan-seared asparagus sprinkled with crumbled chèvre, or with grilled seafood. (Vic Harradine)
Ontario: White Wine
90
Cave Spring Estate Chardonnay Musqué 2016
VQA Beamsville Bench $17.95 (246579) 13.5% alcohol
Crafted from a chardonnay grape clone, this aromatic 100% musqué varietal charms with its ripe fruit aromas—pineapple, peach and pear plus citrus and white blossom notes. This stainless steel fermented, medium-bodied white is round and ample on the palate showcasing mature orchard fruit flavours coated with a touch of honey and good balance of acidity resembling well-made viognier. A gorgeous wine to drink now with grilled sushi or seafood. (Louise Boutin)
90
Henry of Pelham ‘Estate’ Riesling 2017
VQA Short Hills Bench $19.95 (557165) 11.5% alcohol
Aromas of lime zest and notions of petrol dominate the nose of this value-packed, oily textured, mouth-watering riesling. It races over the palate with flavours of lime cordial, lemon pie filling adorned with peach skin. This is clean, crisp and refreshing with a finish and aftertaste filled with racy, mouth-watering oomph and pizzazz. Pour with salads tossed with verjus or your favourite fish or seafood under a squeeze of fresh lemon. (Vic Harradine)
91
Flat Rock Cellars ‘Unplugged’ Chardonnay 2018
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $17.95 (68015) 12.0% alcohol
The price-quality balance skews wildly in your favour here. Fresh, lively aromas of lemongrass, green apple and floral notes leap from the glass. It captures the palate with a torrent of tang-laden flavour with racy lemon and grapefruit nicely balanced and juxtaposed with ripe orchard fruit—clementine and Mirabelle plum. This is medium weight, well textured and brimming with flavour, deft balance and charm. Pick up a few and pour on its own or alongside pan-seared trout or salmon, roast chicken or breaded pork cutlets. (Vic Harradine)
Ontario: Red Wine
92
Wayne Gretzy ‘Whisky Oak Aged’ Red 2017
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (617738) 13.3% alcohol
This is a gorgeous Bordeaux blend—the two cabernets and merlot—at an attractive price. Only 25% was aged in whisky barrel, after maturing in French and American oak, so not at all overdone, although purists may scoff at the very idea ... harrumph. Aromas of ripe, dark berry fruit, smoke and sweet vanilla abound. It blankets the palate with a medium-bodied, nicely textured river of black currant and kirsch liqueur interwoven with baking spice, both dark and milk chocolate and wisps of vanilla. There’s plenty of tang, good structure and appeal. It finishes balanced and tasty. (Vic Harradine)
• The following 2016 Henry of Pelham ‘Speck Family Reserve’ Cabernet-Merlot red blend—49% merlot/37% cabernet sauvignon/14% cabernet franc—was sourced from estate-owned older vines—the cabernet sauvignon from a 1988 planting and merlot and cabernet franc that were both planted in 1999. This matured 18 months in small barrels of American and French oak, 40% new.
92
Henry of Pelham ‘Speck Family Reserve’ Cabernet-Merlot 2016
VQA Short Hills Bench $39.95 (6164330 13.5% alcohol
This divine red opens with a cornucopia of aromas—dark berry fruit, cassis, baking spice, sweet vanilla and pipe tobacco. It washes over the palate with a tang-laden, soft tannin-infused stream of pie cherry and red currant nicely balanced with black currant and hints of savoury herbs and peppery spice. It’s full bodied and fully textured with persistent purity of fruit, good balance and firm structure. The spice and fruit holds and the tannin builds slightly on the lengthy, lip-smacking finish. Aerate/decant two hours and pour alongside medium-rare grilled beef tenderloin with a side of grilled Portobello or cremini mushrooms. This will get even better with two additional years of careful cellaring. (Vic Harradine)
California: White Wine
90
Rutherford Ranch Chardonnay 2017
Napa Valley $25.95 (136382) 13.5% alcohol
Fermenting and ageing in a combination of stainless steel and French and American oak barrels has resulted in a wine with a lot of variety in its character. It has a brilliant yellow appearance, and a nose with aromas of lemon, slate and a touch of toasted oak. The wine has a creamy texture, cut through with a great zip of acidity and lemon-lime palate flavours. There’s a lot of mineral notes in the finish along with hints of slightly toasted meringue. This is well paired with baked cod in a creamy lemon sauce. (Dave Isaacs)
California: Rosé Wine
87
Conundrum Rosé 2017
California $21.95 (557595) 13.4% alcohol
This refreshing rosé is made from a blend of fruit grown in the coastal regions of California, including the rarely encountered ‘napa gamay’—which isn't gamay, but is valdiguié, a variety usually seen in the Languedoc-Roussillon region of southern France. This has a salmon and peach hue with a nose dominated by aromas of strawberry. It’s medium bodied with lively acidity and red berry flavours on the palate. The finish is pleasantly tangy. Pour with smoked salmon served on a baguette smeared with cream cheese. (Dave Isaacs)
California: Red Wine
88
McManis Zinfandel 2017
Lodi $21.95 (256735) 14.0% alcohol
There’s a lively nose of primary fruit—cherry, blackberry blueberry—mingling with oaky aromas. Rich, flavours of kirsch liqueur and dark berry fruit interlaced with mixed spice and a supple tannin structure bathe the palate. This is medium-full bodied and satin textured with a lengthy balanced finish. Aerate/decant three hours pouring with well-seasoned, grilled medium-rare, beefsteak. (Vic Harradine)
Chile: Red Wine
90
Apaltagua ‘Envero - Gran Reserva’ Carmenère 2015
DO Apalta, Colchagua Valley $18.95 (481010) 14.0% alcohol
Opaque, dark purple in the glass, this offers black plum and savory herb aromas on the nose. It rolls in endless waves over the palate with nicely structured mouthfuls of crunchy red fruit—cranberry, cherry and passionfruit—interweaving with cassis and perceptible supple tannin. This is medium-plus weight with good mouthfeel and a dry, lengthy finish. Aerate/decant for two hours pouring with grilled striploin. (Vic Harradine)
86
Torres ‘Cordillera De Los Andes – Special Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2013
DO Maipo Valley $19.95 (541169) 14.0% alcohol
Rich aromas of black currant, black plum and wood smoke roll from this medium-bodied, fruit-forward, savory-laden cabernet sauvignon. Crunchy red fruit—pie cherry and currant—coat the palate interlaced with green herbs, bittersweet chocolate and hints of tomato leaf on the back palate and tang-laden finish. Pour with lasagna, pasta puttanesca or spaghetti in tomato sauce and meat balls. (Vic Harradine)
93
Montes ‘Purple Angel’ 2015
DO Colchagua Valley $62.95 (62364) 15.0% alcohol
This is exceptional even for this vaunted wine; you’ll find depth, structure, balance, fruit-fueled flavour, firm tannin, excellent acidity and a welcomed absence of green leafy notes. Bramble berry, blueberry and baking spice provide segue for a full-Monty gusher of palate-coating flavour with black currant and juicy black plum interlaced with espresso roast and bittersweet chocolate. It spent 18 months in new French oak. There’s good balancing acidity and supple tannin requiring attention; pop corks after careful cellaring 2021 to 2023. (Vic Harradine)
Australia: Red Wine
• In its relatively short wine life, the following 2016 Wakefield Cabernet Sauvignon has been awarded nine Gold medals, one double Gold and a swag of Silver and Bronze in national and international competitions.
90
Wakefield Cabernet Sauvignon 2016
Clare Valley, Australia $19.95 (744235) 14.0% alcohol
Ripe and uber-ripe dark fruit aromas—mulberry and black currant dominate the nose with hints of spice and espresso roast. It floods the palate with flavours of dark bittersweet chocolate and mint robed in black plum compote, blackberry jam and sweet kirsch liqueur. It finishes long and luscious with notions of cherry clafoutie and piquant spice. Pour with grilled back ribs slathered with spicy barbecue sauce. (Vic Harradine)
New Zealand: White Wine
90
Stoneleigh ‘Latitude’ Sauvignon Blanc 2018
Marlborough $21.91 (324228) $21.95 13.0% alcohol
The fruit for this gem was sourced from the ‘Golden Mile’ in Marlborough, it’s blessed with extra warmth relayed by the stones covering the soil that allow the grapes to fully mature. Partially hand-harvested and aged six months in French oak, this delicious white offers citrus aromas along with lactic, cedar, grassy and mineral notes. Deliciously tart and crisp on the palate, this is medium bodied with flavours of grapefruit, honeydew melon and lime zest finished with beautiful minerality. Try alongside scallop ceviche for a mouth-watering pairing. (Louise Boutin)
France: Red Wine
89
Château de Treviac Corbières 2016
AOP Corbières $16.95 (670505) 14.5% alcohol
This 60/40 syrah/grenache blend was sourced from the family estate modernized in 2000 and extensively improved by present winegrower, Arnaud Sié. The blend was aged in tank, bottled without fining and with only light filtration. Aromas of charred toast, gamy notes and mixed spice introduce a light-medium wash of fruit-laced flavours with red and black cherry/berry flavours interwoven with passionfruit, and excellent tang from cork pop to last drop. Give this a go with beef fajitas or grilled burgers. (Vic Harradine)
Greece: White Wine
88
Troupis Winery ‘Fteri’ Moschofilero 2017
IGP Arcadia, Peloponnese $16.95 12.0% alcohol
Very pale yellow with flecks of green in the glass, it offers aromas of lime and floral notes. This streaks over the palate with citrus flavours and great élan—lemon curd, lime and white grapefruit—along with balance provided by ripe, sweet yellow peach on the back palate and aftertaste. It’s light on its feet and provides the perfect foil to steamed mussels in cream sauce. (Vic Harradine)
Georgia: Red Wine
87
United Stars Saperavi 2016
Kindzmarauli, Kakheti $14.95 (466458) 12.5% alcohol
Saperavi is a red grape variety native to Georgia—a rare ‘teinturier’ grape in that the pulp and juice of the grape is red, as well as the skin. In the Kakheti region this grape is often used to make semi-sweet wines; however, this value-priced wine is not one of them. It’s dark-ruby hued and has aromas of black plum, vanilla and strawberries. It’s medium bodied on the palate with ripe, perceptible tannins and gentle acidity. There are juicy, palate flavours of cherry and blueberry. Enjoy with roast chicken breasts served with a balsamic cherry sauce. (Dave Isaacs)
Italy: Red Wine
90
Marchesi Mazzei ‘Badiola di Fonterutoli’ 2016
IGT Toscana, Italy $19.95 (330951) 13.0% alcohol
Aromas of red and dark berry fruit interweave with mixed spice and mocha. It glides over the palate medium bodied with ripe fruit flavour—black currant and dark plum—decorated with excellent tang, good mouth feel and plenty of charm. The lively flavours persist through the lengthy and luxurious aftertaste. Pour alongside crispy, spiced wings, meat-laden red pizza or grilled burgers. (Vic Harradine)
Spain: Red Wine
92
Secreto Patagónico Malbec 2017
Patagonia, Argentina $19.95 (635691) 14.0% alcohol
This punches well above its weight and is value laden. Fresh, lively aromas of charred toast, red berry fruit and sharp spice leap from the glass. It envelops the palate with stunning, balanced and beautiful flavours—ripe black Bing cherry, briary berry and mocha melding with notions of herbal notes and excellent tang. This is medium-plus bodied with generous texture and persistent purity of fruit throughout. It finishes delicious, balanced and full of flavour. Pour with rack of lamb, grilled medium rare. (Vic Harradine)
Upstream in winecurrent
Vintages Release: June 22, 2019
• The following signature wine of Domaine Carneros ‘by Taittinger’ is their vintage-dated Brut 2013 Méthode Traditionnelle sparkling wine with a blend of 58% chardonnay/42% pinot noir.
93
Domaine Carneros ‘by Taittinger’ Brut 2013
Carneros, California $41.95 (301655) 12.0% alcohol
Aromas of baking brioche, nutty notes, honeysuckle and citrus rise from the fine-bead frothy mousse in the glass. Palate flavours—baked apple pie, lemon curd and minerality—ride on excellent tang and acidity. Persistent purity of fruit and palate flavours infuse the lingering balanced and beautiful finish and aftertaste. Extremely versatile at the table, pour with appetizers or mains—sea food, sushi, poultry, pork or soft cheese like brie or camembert. (Vic Harradine)
• The following 2018 Quinta de Curvos Loureiro Vinho Verde hails from the northwest corner of Portugal utilizing the acclaimed grape variety in the Vinho Verde wine region, ‘Loureiro’.
89
Quinta de Curvos Loureiro Vinho Verde 2018
Vinho Verde, Portugal $12.95 (471284) 12.0% alcohol
This wafts easily from the glass with aromas of floral and herbal notes galore. It glides over the palate smooth and light on its feet showcasing satin-smooth mouthfeel, deft balance and a wonderful array of delicious flavours—yellow peach, ripe pear and lemon curd. It finishes dry and delicious with mouth-watering tang and a wisp of minerality. Pour with grilled sardines or pan-seared calamari under a generous squeeze of fresh lemon. (Vic Harradine)
89
Gérard Bertrand ‘Hampton Water’ Rosé 2018
AOP Languedoc, France $29.95 (667337) 13.0%
This is predominantly grenache noir blended with cinsault and mourvèdre that was matured a short time in French oak barrels. Lifted aromas of floral notes, spice and fresh strawberry leap from the glass. Palate flavours of ruby red grapefruit, flinty minerality and tangy red currant form a laser-like stream of crunchy flavour persisting through the dry, lip-smacking finish. Pour with grilled or pan-seared salmon or pasta in tomato sauce. (Vic Harradine)
Vintages Release July 20, 2019
90
Oyster Bay Cuvée Brut Sparkling Non-Vintage
Hawke’s Bay $22.95 (163634) 12.5% alcohol
This Charmat method sparkling is made of 100% chardonnay kept in contact with the lees in a portion of the maturation process. It fills the air with aromas of fresh citrus, lactic notes, bread crumbs and mineral character. A nice froth expands on the palate expressing flavours of pink grapefruit, white peach, crispy crackers and a lingering minerality note turning saline in the medium-long finish. This is medium-bodied with great acidity, pleasant mouthfeel and weight and a no-brainer partner to sea salt chips. (Louise Boutin)
• The following 2016 Gérard Bertrand Minervois Syrah/Carignan was hand harvested with each varietal grape kept separate. After malolactic conversion and both undergoing partial carbonic maceration, they were blended and matured eight months in 225L French oak barrel followed by further bottle maturation before release.
90
Gérard Bertrand Minervois Syrah/Carignan 2016
AOP Minervois, France $15.95 (952804) 13.5% alcohol
Lively, fresh aromas of dark cherry and black currant set the table for a smorgasbord of palate flavours with red cherry blueberry, mocha and sweet bramble berry to the fore. This is medium weight with good texture, balance and tang. It dishes up more of the same with palate replays on the finish and aftertaste. It sips well on its own and pours exceptionally well with grilled red meats, gourmet sausages or beef stroganoff. (Vic Harradine)
Vintages Release: August 3, 2019
• The following 2017 Closson Chase ‘Vineyard’ Chardonnay was hand harvested from two estate low-yielding vineyards—75% South Clos and 25% Churchside—then 100% barrel fermented in French oak with under 10% new.
92
Closson Chase ‘Vineyard’ Chardonnay 2017
VQA Prince Edward County $29.95 (148866) 13.3% alcohol
This offers a price-quality balance tipped wildly in your favour. Aromas of apple, pear and baking spice abound on the nose of this fabulous chardonnay. It treats the palate to a balanced and beautiful, fruit-filled river of flavour with ginger root-infused apple along with wisps of sweet vanilla and Meyer lemon. It’s medium-plus bodied with generous mouthfeel accompanied by a monumentally long, delectable finish. Pour on its own after removing from refrigeration for 20 minutes or with roast chicken, turkey, pork or smoked duck breasts. (Vic Harradine)
Vintages Release: October 2019
90
Sacred Hill Pinot Noir 2018
Marlborough $19.95 13.5% alcohol
A nice melange of raspberry, red cherry, potpourri and dry savoury herb aromas charms the nose. You’ll find flavours of tart cherry, dry cranberry, dry sage on the palate and a toasty note persisting in the tart savoury finish. This medium-bodied pinot has up to five years of cellaring potential but is delicious now alongside salmon on the grill with roasted asparagus. (Louise Boutin)
New in Vintages
• The following 2018 Oyster Bay Pinot Grigio is a Vintages Essentials wine and always available in select LCBO retail stores.
88
Oyster Bay Pinot Grigio 2018
Hawke’s Bay $19.95 (326090) 12.0% alcohol
This is a cool-climate styled pinot grigio that was stainless steel fermented with a similar profile both on the nose and palate—ripe pear, green apple, a touch of ginger and a grassy/herbal note in the background. It’s medium-light bodied with a good balance of sweetness and acidity. It pairs well with friends and a sushi platter. (Louise Boutin)
87
Oyster Bay Rosé 2018
Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand $19.95 (493171) 12.5% alcohol
This 100% gently crushed pinot noir was stainless-steel tank fermented with no malolactic conversion. It’s a medium-light bodied rosé with aromas of red cherry, strawberry and a lactic scent. On the palate, flavours of watermelon, pie cherry and cranberry pair-up to keep the acidity vibrant all the way to the fruity dry finish. This tangy patio sipper pours well with salted munchies. (Louise Boutin)
New in LCBO Portfolio
89
Bodega Argento ‘Reserva’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2016
Mendoza, Argentina $14.40 (164764) 14.0% alcohol
This was stainless-steel fermented and matured nine months in 75% French and 25% American oak. Perfumed aromas of dark berry fruit, mocha and cherry cordial abound. It bathes the palate with a smooth, round flow of rich, ripe dark fruit—black plum, dark cherry and black currant jelly. This is medium weight with good density and concentration. It offers up a tang-infused, fruit-forward finish underpinned by smooth, soft tannin. Pour alongside burgers, grilled sausages or meat-laden red pizza. (Vic Harradine)
87
Bodega Argento ‘Seleccion’ Chardonnay 2017
Mendoza, Argentina $11.10 (591701) 13.5% alcohol
Lightly oaked—only 10% of this wine saw 2 months in French oak and malolactic conversion. Tropical fruit aromas waft from the glass preceding a medium-bodied nicely textured wash of green pear, Key lime and white grapefruit pith. The juicy dry finish is mouth-watering good. Pour with pan-seared, baked or grilled seafood, lemon chicken or prawn ceviche. (Vic Harradine)
• Michèle Bosc, part of the family who own and manage Château des Charmes, passed away in early 2019. Aligoté was one of her favourite wines and the family has now commemorated this wine to her. The following 2018 Château des Charmes ‘Cuvèe Michèle – Estate Bottled’ Aligoté is crisp, fresh and lively, sourced from their estate vineyards of the vitis vinifera Burgundy grape - Aligoté. It saw no oak. If you haven’t tried this, you owe it to yourself to pick one up.
91
Château des Charmes ‘Cuvèe Michèle – Estate Bottled’ Aligoté 2018
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $15.95 (296848) 13.0% alcohol
This is dry, crisp and refreshing with oodles of fruit flavour and excellent tang, and a price-quality balance that tips in your favour. Aromas of pear, apple and citrus is a clarion call for the delectable river of flavour that fills the palate—yellow nectarine, green apple and lemon curd intertwined with excellent acidity and plenty of charm. This sips well on its own and is versatile at the table. I tried mine with roasted beet salad with herb-crusted goat cheese, baby lettuce and mustard vinaigrette – delicious. (Vic Harradine)
89
Stoneleigh Sauvignon Blanc 2018
Marlborough $17.95 (293043) 13.0% alcohol
A nice cocktail of tropical fruit—pineapple, passionfruit and lime— dusted with white pepper opens the door to this medium-bodied fragrant Marlborough staple wine. A crisp wash of tangy flavours travels the palate with vivacity and freshness where passionfruit and pink grapefruit flavours mingle nicely with mineral and peppery notes in the finish and aftertaste. An excellent choice to pair with coconut shrimps or simply enjoy on its own. (Louise Boutin)
88
Stoneleigh Pinot Noir 2017
Marlborough $18.95 (54353) 13.0% alcohol
Look for aromas of beet root, red cherry, dry bay leaf and a fermentation note in this new-world pinot. Medium-bodied with soft tannin and medium acidity, it replays the aroma profile on the palate with baking spice and herbaceous flavours in the finish and aftertaste. Pour now with roasted beet salad and herb vinaigrette. (Louise Boutin)
90
Sacred Hill Sauvignon Blanc 2018
Marlborough $18.95 (489112) 12.5%
Lifted, lively aromas of gooseberry, piquant spice and hints of flinty/mineral notes abound on the nose of this lovely, well-balanced, rich-in-flavour Kiwi. It captures the palate with a dry, tingling stream of medium-weight, nicely textured lime zest, minerality, yellow plum and peach. It finishes in a crescendo of racy tang and ripe pit fruit forming a lip-smacking finish and aftertaste. Remove from refrigeration 15 minutes before serving. Pour with chèvre crumbled over olive-oil dressed arugula or skillet-seared white fish with a squeeze of fresh lemon. (Vic Harradine)
90
Whitehaven Sauvignon Blanc 2018
Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand $17.95 (308288) 13.0% alcohol
There are herbal notes, gooseberry, citrus and minerality aromas galore on the nose of this medium-weight, nicely textured and well-balanced beauty. It bathes the palate with crisp, refreshing flavours of lemon zest and Key lime pie mingling with wisps of mineral notes. It finishes in a dazzling array of lime, lemon and passionfruit, lengthy and lip-smacking good. Pour with pan-seared fish or grilled prawns. (Vic Harradine)
New in Ontario Wineries
• Purchase the following two wines online from Château des Charmes for daily home, restaurant or office delivery or visit their Ottawa retail store in Minto Place at Laurier and Lyon or buy at their winery in Niagara-on-the-Lake -1025 York Rd, St. David’s Ontario L0S 1P0. Here’s a map.
• The following 2016 Château des Charmes ‘St David’s Bench Vineyard’ Cabernet Franc is produced only in outstanding vintages. Fruit for this wine was hand-harvested from estate vines +25 years old and matured for 12 months in 1-2 year old French oak barrels.
92
Château des Charmes ‘St David’s Bench Vineyard’ Cabernet Franc 2016
VQA St David’s Bench $34.95 (453415) 13.5% alcohol
A perfumed nose of floral notes, graphite and dark berry fruit provide segue to a balanced and beautiful, palate-enveloping flow of ripe black fruit—cherry and bramble berry—interlaced with soft spice, excellent tang, and a firm underpinning of ripe tannin. This is medium bodied with good texture and a lengthy, fruit filled, tannin-infused finish and aftertaste. Aerate/decant for three hours pouring with grilled-rare flank steak or grilled rack of lamb. This will also reward patience in cellaring over the next five or six years or so. (Vic Harradine)
• Order the following by the case for daily office, home or restaurant delivery direct from the winery either by using this link Closson Chase, by phone 1.888.201.2300 or email This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. or pick them up from the winery 629 Closson Road, Hillier, Ontario K0K 2J0 – it’s an easy 2 or so hour drive, or less, from the GTA or Ottawa and environs - Here’s a map.
• The following 2017 Closson Chase ‘South Clos’ Chardonnay was hand-picked from low-yielding estate vines then 100% barrel fermented in French oak, 20% new.
92
Closson Chase ‘South Clos’ Chardonnay 2017
VQA Prince Edward County $39.95 13.3% alcohol
This is deftly balanced with sense of purpose and persistent purity of fruit throughout. Oaky notes, piquant spice and orchard fruit aromas provide segue to a surge of medium-full bodied, generously textured palate flavours—sweet ripe apple and pear adorned with baking spice and mouth-watering citrussy tang. It finishes with oodles of charm and palate replays on the lengthy, lip-smacking finish. It’s delicious to drink now and will improve with additional short-term bottle ageing. Kudos to winemaker, Keith Tyers. (Vic Harradine)
• The following 2017 Closson Chase ‘Vineyard’ Chardonnay was hand harvested from two estate, low-yielding vineyards—75% South Clos and 25% Churchside—then 100% barrel fermented in French oak with under 10% new.
92
Closson Chase ‘Vineyard’ Chardonnay 2017
VQA Prince Edward County $29.95 (148866) 13.3% alcohol
This crowd pleaser offers a price-quality balance tipped wildly in your favour. Aromas of apple, pear and baking spice abound on the nose of this fabulous PEC chardonnay. It treats the palate to a balanced and beautiful, fruit-filled river of flavour with ginger root-infused apple along with wisps of sweet vanilla and Meyer lemon. It’s medium-plus bodied with generous mouthfeel accompanied by a monumentally long, delectable finish. Pour on its own after removing from refrigeration for 20 minutes or with roast chicken, turkey, pork or smoked duck breasts. (Vic Harradine)
• The following 2017 Closson Chase ‘Churchside’ Chardonnay was manually harvested and 100% barrel fermented with 20% new French oak. This limited-edition gem had less than 175 cases produced. One would do well to order from the winery before it’s all snapped up.
94
Closson Chase ‘Churchside’ Chardonnay 2017
VQA Prince Edward County $44.95 13.3% alcohol
A mélange of sharp baking spice, oaky notes, ripe pear, peach and vanilla abound on this stunning, medium-full bodied, well-textured chardonnay. It envelops the palate with tang, persistent purity of fruit and a fabulous, lengthy aftertaste. A sleek stream of Meyer lemon, white grapefruit and steely/saline minerality blanket the palate balanced on a pin by yellow peach, ripe pear and wisps of kiwi fruit. The seemingly endless and luscious aftertaste encorporates palate replays plus a notion of lime cordial. It will improve over the next five years. (Vic Harradine)
New in Private Order
• Order the following wines, plus those in the May 20, 2019 newsletter, by the case for home, restaurant or office delivery in Ontario from VinoLuna wine agency. Contact via VinoLuna website, by Email at This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. or, in the GTA phone 416 587-6691.
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Provolo ‘Tenuta Ca’Nove’ Soave 2018
DOC Soave, Italy $15.95 13.0% alcohol
This 100%, highly aromatic garganega gives off aromas of honeysuckle, melon and ripe apple. It’s medium-bodied with generous mouthfeel and excellent balance throughout. Delicious flavours of lemon pie filling and grilled pineapple wash over the palate persisting through the balanced and beautiful, mouth-watering finish and aftertaste. Pour alongside seafood, chicken or pork. (Vic Harradine)
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Provolo ‘Gino’ Rosso Veneto 2018
IGT Rosso Veneto, Italy $15.95 13.5% alcohol
Delicate aromas of floral notes and spice waft from this 60% Corvina/20% Rondinella/20% Corvinone red blend A tang-laden gusher of crunchy red fruit—pie cherry, red currant and passionfruit—blanket the palate infusing the long, dry finish and aftertaste. This is medium-plus bodied with excellent texture and plenty of pizzazz. Pour alongside spaghetti Bolognese, pasta puttanesca or red pizza. (Vic Harradine)
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Salvaterra Ripasso Classico Superiore 2016
DOC Valpolicella Ripasso, Italy $15.95 14.5% alcohol
A 60% Corvina/25% Rondinella/10% Corvinone and 5% ‘others’ blend, it sports an interesting nose of herbal notes, mixed spice and cherry/berry fruit. It dishes up a sweet and tang via a fruit-forward river of juicy black currant and pie cherry adorned with piquant spice and hints of passionfruit on the warm, drying, delicious finish and aftertaste. Aerate/decant two hours then pour alongside home-grilled burgers or grilled gourmet sausages. (Vic Harradine)
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Provolo ‘Campotorbian’ Ripasso Superiore 2013
DOC Valpolicella Ripasso, Italy $19.95 14.0% alcohol
This value-packed blend of 60% Corvina/25% Rondinella/10% Corvinone/5% Oseleta offers delicate aromas of dark cherry and mixed field berry fruit intertwined with hints of tar and dark raisin. It bathes the palate with a creamy smooth, tang-laden wave of red and black cherry decorated with notions of blueberry and dates. It’s medium-plus bodied with good texture, deft balance plus a lingering, lip-smacking finish and aftertaste. Pour with a selection of aged hard cheese or lasagna. (Vic Harradine)
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Provolo ‘Tenuta Ca’Nove’ Ripasso Superiore 2016
DOC Valpolicella Ripasso, Italy $16.95 14.0% alcohol
You’ll be hard pressed to find better Ripasso at this price. This blend of 60% Corvina/20% Rondinella/20% Corvinone delivers a perfumed nose of floral notes, black licorice and dark berry fruit. This showcases a rich and layered, sweet-tinged stream of pie cherry and black bramble berry coating the palate decorated with wisps of dark bittersweet chocolate. It’s medium weight with good mouthfeel and a gorgeous lengthy, tangy finish of dark berry fruit and mocha along with wisps of piquant spice and mineral notes. Give this a go with meat-laden red pizza or beef fajitas. (Vic Harradine)
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Provolo ‘Tenuta Ca’Nove’ Amarone 2015
DOCG Amarone della Valpolicella, Italy $38.95 15.0% alcohol
This more traditional blend of three indigenous grapes—80% Corvina/15% Rondinella/5% Molinara—leaps from the glass with gorgeous aromas of dried currant, mocha and pipe tobacco. It envelops the palate with a rich, ripe, satin-smooth wash of deftly balanced, fruit-forward flavour with juicy black Bing cherry, black plum and briary berry to the fore along with ripe fig and raisiny notes. This is absolutely delicious from cork pop to last drop with the finish and aftertaste replaying delightful palate flavours. As Amarone prices go, this demands attention and strongly suggests a multiple purchase. (Vic Harradine)
• Fruit for the following 2016 Domaine Força Real ‘Schistes’ was hand-picked, fermented then matured eight months in stainless steel.
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Domaine Força Real ‘Schistes’ 2016
AOP Côtes du Roussillon Villages, France $15.95 14.5% alcohol
This organically certified red blend of 60% grenache/30% syrah/10% mourvèdre offers up fruity aromas of dark cherry and black currant interwoven with notions of mixed wild herbs plus spice and cassis. It’s medium-full bodied with good structure, generous texture and oodles of rich, ripe fruit throughout. This blankets the palate with lively, tangy fruit-filled flavour—red and black berry fruit, juicy black cherry, and a concentrated dollop of Ribena. There’s ripe, well-integrated tannin and dark cherry/berry fruit on the lengthy, delectable finish. Pour with grilled red meat or aged, hard cheese. (Vic Harradine)
Cheers, Lisa, Louise, Dave, Vic