An explanation of the scoring system and icons is included at the end of this newsletter.

This release features Ontario wines, first by varietal then icewine, and after that it continues on in the usual manner.

Cave Spring Chardonnay Reserve 2003
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (256552)
That ABC (Anything But Chardonnay) stuff is a myth. Chardonnay sales are booming, and examples like this keep people loyal. It delivers rich fruit, with ripe peach and pear to the fore, with a nice seam of acidity and smoky pungency in the aromas. This is a winner with rich chicken dishes or with seared scallops or lobster. (RP)


Jackson-Triggs "Proprietors' Grand Reserve" Chardonnay 2003
VQA Niagara Peninsula $18.95 (593996)
Opening with a fragrant nose of toasty vanilla and tropical fruit, this medium-textured gem delivers ripe peach and Bosc pear flavours that have been delicately balanced with just the right amount of citrussy notes to keep it very clean and refreshing. The finish is quite lengthy and deliciously layered. Would pour proudly alongside grilled and lemon- drizzled rainbow trout. Drink now to 2010. (VH)


Strewn "Terroir" Chardonnay 2004
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (012773)
Vic and I think this is terrific. It offers lovely complexity in the aromas and flavours, where you'll find intense peach, pear and tropical fruit with toast, butterscotch and warm spices as accents. With a smooth, verging on creamy texture, poised balance and good length, this pairs very well with dried-fruit-stuffed pork tenderloin. (RP)


Château des Charmes "St. Davids Bench Vineyard" Viognier 2004
VQA Niagara Peninsula $24.95 (432948)
(Previously reviewed in Winecurrent) From the beguiling nose (honeysuckle, apricot and peach) to the lengthy and luxurious finish, this is a stunner. Sweet and warm tropical fruit flavours abound in this velvety, almost creamy, medium-bodied offering. There is a delightful verve to this with a tangy zest integrating seamlessly with the fruit-driven finish. Stock up, before it's gone. (VH)


Cave Spring Riesling Reserve
VQA Niagara Peninsula, Beamsville Bench $17.95 (286377)
Verging on off-dry, this is a delicious fruity Riesling from a Niagara winery that's both well-established and dynamic. Look for floral and peach in the aromas and a replay on the palate with that mineral seam you find in so many of Cave Spring's Rieslings. Medium bodied and with a long finish, this is a natural for spicy seafood like ginger and garlic shrimp. (RP)


Château des Charmes Late Harvest Riesling 2004
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $17.95 (432930)
This is a marvellous and inexpensive dessert wine that will also drink well with briny blue cheese. It has medium sweetness, which makes it more versatile than most icewines, and offers up attractive aromas of peach and honey. They're in the flavours, too, along with some deeper tropical fruit notes. (RP)



Henry of Pelham Reserve Baco Noir 2004
VQA Ontario $24.95 (461699)
From its lifted tarry nose to its lengthy and luxurious fruit forward finish, this is a superb expression of terroir and grape. An absolute must for imbibers and collectors alike. Aromas and flavours of coffee, jammy black currant, and spiced plum meld with good grip (ripe, but firm tannin), a backbone of verve and concentrated intensity. Varietal management - meticulous leaf thinning, green harvest, 20+ year old vines, small yield (50 hL/ha) plus winemaker Ron Giesbrecht's experience and unmatched expertise coalesce in this brilliant wine. Drink now (after a 4-hour decant) to 2015. (VH)


Lakeview Cellars "Butler's Grant Vineyard"Reserve Merlot 2002
VQA Niagara Peninsula $24.95 (012633)
From the excellent 2002 vintage, this Merlot delivers quite intense fruit flavours. You'll find a complex range of dark fruit and berries with notes of spice and smoke. The tannins are firm and pleasant, and this goes well with grilled red meats. Drink it now and over the next three years. (RP)


Inniskillin Reserve Meritage 2002
VQA Niagara Peninsula $16.95 (650937)
A quiet nose of lovely black plum and currant wafts from this medium-bodied red. It opens with red berry fruit and Bing cherry flavours that have been nicely matched to a deftly-handled oak regimen, noticeable, but acceptable tannins plus enough verve and nerve to keep it far from jammy. The medium length finish offers more of the same. Try this with grilled and stuffed pork tenderloin. (VH)



Coyote's Run Riesling Icewine 2004
VQA Niagara Peninsula $49.95 (375 mL) (012658)
This is a rich icewine with honey-veneered flavours of concentrated peach, apple and pear. A nice seam of citric acidity from the mid-palate on cuts through the sweetness to allow you to have a second glass while you finish your seared foie gras or cut another piece of tangy blue cheese. (RP)


Pillitteri Riesling Icewine 2004
VQA Niagara Peninsula $29.95 (200 mL) (435727)
Winemaker Sue-Ann Staff , Niagara's undisputed "doyen of dessert wine," presents her credentials in a bottle. Exotic Indian spice, apple and pear aromatics drift alluringly from the glass. Flavours attack in huge waves of candied pineapple, ginger and clove-infused apple plus ripe caramelized pear. The fabulously rich finish has the necessary dollop of acidity, to keep it from being cloying, along with layers of the previously-mentioned fruit. A stunning wine to be served, well chilled, on its own, as the dessert. (VH)


Inniskillin Riesling Icewine 2004
VQA Niagara Peninsula $69.95 (375 mL) (558288)
Aromatics of rose petals and spice-ladened pears form the beguiling nose of this classy number. This wine is plush and full-textured on the palate as layers of honey and rich, ripe tropical fruit (nectarine, mango and quince) wash over the palate. The fruit-forward finish is lengthy and deftly balanced. This would pair well with a peach, pear or apple dessert. (VH)


Colio Estate "CEV" Vidal Icewine 2004
VQA Lake Erie North Shore $39.95 (375 mL) (467472)
Opening with a deep gold hue in the glass, the gorgeous aromas of exotic spice and mélange of ripe tropical fruit draw the taster in. The glorious fruit attack on the palate is not to be missed - apple pie, treacle and spice (clove and cinnamon). Overall, it delivers an awesome attack of tangy, viscous nectar. The price to quality balance is tipped heavily in your favour. Stock up. (VH)



Cockburn & Smith & Co. "Newman's Celebrated" Port
DOC Porto $14.95 (478883) $14.95
This is still one of the great bargains in the LCBO. An entry level "Ruby" Port that over- delivers on every count. Expect spice and cassis on the nose and then ladles of palate-drenching sweet, black, ripe, juicy berry and pit fruit flavours. More of the same on the finish, sending one in search of a cold winter evening, chocolate dessert or large chips of parmigianno regianno to match. (VH)


Taylor Fladgate Quinta de Vargellas Vintage Port 1991 (Bottled 1993)
DOC Porto $47.95 (375 mL) (581199)
Stunning, simply stunning; Rod and I were both struck by its grandeur. Aromatics of currants, tar and licorice waft from this dense and concentrated age-worthy red. Flavours of caramelized black sweet cherries, Christmas cake spice and generous lashings of cassis drench the senses while the monumental finish is ethereal and memorable, lasting for almost a minute and reminiscent of spiced mincemeat pie. Drink now to 2015 with very special friends. (VH)



Peck Ranch Vineyard EOS "Reserve" Petite Sirah 2001
Paso Robles $22.95 (001628)
Distinctive and lifted, the nose consists of black plum compote, toasty oak and leather aromatics. Robust and concentrated, it offers layers of flavour - brambleberry, dark chocolate and spice box. Full-bodied and rich, it manages balance and structure by its generosity in all the important areas - tannin, fruit, acidity. Absolutely gorgeous now, decant for two hours, it will drink well to 2010. Pour with a rich lamb daube. (VH)


Freemark Abbey Cabernet Sauvignon 2001
Napa Valley $49.95 (904532)
The 2001 vintage in Napa was excellent for Cabernet Sauvignon, as this one attests. Look for sweet, ripe dark fruit with great complexity and notes of spice, coffee and pepper. With dry, firm tannins, this is best cellared a couple of years, but if you must drink it sooner, decant it and let it sit four to eight hours before you grill a steak medium-rare. (RP)


R.H. Phillips "Toasted Head" Cabernet Sauvignon 2003
North Coast $29.95 (686824)
This perennial favourite hits the mark, yet again. Black berry and brioche form the aromatic profile while the flavours are all about sweet, rich, juicy black fruit and black licorice. Good balancing acidity and enough grip to give it structure and a promise of cellaring potential to 2012. The medium weight suits this wine while the lengthy finish makes the entire experience very enjoyable. Good to go now with any manner of grilled medium rare steak. (VH)



Bodegas Catena Zapata "Alamos" Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
Mendoza $13.95 (467944)
Wonderful Cabernet Sauvignon typicity here with a nose of bramble berry coupled with hints of mint and cassis. It is medium weight, well balanced and delivers a fruit-forward finish. You will pick up good fruit in the mouth and on the finish (cherry and spiced plum) a portend of a lovely cuisine match with spiced beef. This is excellent value. (VH).


Bodegas Catena Zapata "Alamos" Malbec 2005
Mendoza $13.95 (467951)
Here's one of those wines to buy by the armful. For a very good price you get a lot of wine that will go well with everything from hamburgers to steak, from grilled lamb to rich meat-based pasta and stews. You'll find intense black fruit and berry flavours with layers of chocolate and spice, good balance and easy-going tannins. (RP)



Morandé "Terrarum" Sauvignon Blanc 2005
Reserva, Casablanca Valley $12.95 (686105)
Some Kiwi Sauvignon Blanc characteristics here with a grassy, mineral, gooseberry nose plus a strong backbone of acidity. Citrus is to the fore on the flavour profile coupled with hints of pear in this medium-bodied white. A cuisine that would be the perfect foil to this dry and zingy offering is a mesculan salad, with a light vinaigrette, sprinkled liberally with grilled chèvre. Good price point. (VH)



Pewsey Vale Riesling 2004
Eden Valley, South Australia $19.95 (686600)
The planted vines are 35 years old, but all propagated from those brought to Australia by James Busby (recognized father of Australian wine) in 1839. An exuberant nose of floral notes and citrus forms the segue to this medium-bodied, cool climate dazzler. It provides a robust mouthful of fruit flavours with citrus and mango to the fore. This is dry, clean and well structured. Drink now to 2012 with light cheeses or smoked fish. (VH)



Barossa Valley Estate "E&E Black Pepper" Shiraz 2002
Barossa Valley, South Australia $99.95 (731620)
This is a perennial favourite, and even though it's not inexpensive, it's well worth trying if you can stretch to it. The style is consistent within vintage variations: richly complex with seams of dark fruit and berries and pockets of spice and black pepper. The texture captures a sort of vibrancy that lifts the concentrated flavours and makes this a superb food wine. Put it away for three or four years, then drink it over the next ten. (RP)


Craneford "Allyson Parsons" Shiraz 2004
Barossa Valley, South Australia $17.95 (682849)
Aromas of raspberry and prunes greet the lucky taster of this medium to full-bodied red. A very well-made wine that exhibits a gorgeously rich, almost creamy, texture, good structure and a tangy finish. Look for lovely ripe fruit in the black and red berry zones that are underpinned by ripe tannins. Drink now to 2010 with rack of lamb. (VH).


Mitolo "Jester" Shiraz 2004
McLaren Vale, South Australia $25.95 (659607)
Beautifully fresh aromatics of blueberry and sour cherry waft from this medium-bodied red. Sweet cassis and bramble berry flavours wash over the palate while the bone dry finish is lengthy and luxurious. Nothing out of balance here as all elements were carefully handled and accounted for. Would marry well to smoked duck breasts, no kidding. (VH)


Penley Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2002
Coonawarra, South Australia $52.95 (701821)
An iron fist in a velvet glove as it's both exuberantly robust and charmingly elegant. A lifted nose of ripe black fruit, tobacco and spice booms from the glass. The richly concentrated flavours include Bing cherry, licorice and lashings of toasted oak. Imagine all this wrapped around a considerable tannic structure yet still being drinkable, even at this early stage. The finish adds oodles more spice and a spine of acidity. Drink now, after decanting three or four hours, to 2015, with grilled medium rare strip loin. (VH)


Penmara Reserve Shiraz 2003
Orange, New South Wales $18.95 (912782)
Last year from Hunter Valley, this vintage from Orange (also in NSW) with a similar result - a top drop that is very well priced. Plum compote and minty aromas form the entry to this medium-bodied red. A generous fruit attack is spearheaded by Montmorency cherry, ripe cranberry and red currant. There is a lengthy and well balanced finish that cries out for a cuisine match of grilled lamb tenderloin slathered with garlic. (VH)



Saint Clair Riesling 2005
Marlborough, South Island $15.95 (651877)
An alluring nose of mineral, slate and floral notes gives way to a medium-bodied white with enough sweetness from residual sugar to be fairly described as 'off dry'. This is a lovely offering, from the stunning pineapple and citrus flavours to the luxurious and appealing pit fruit tangy finish. Lovely now, would be worth purchasing another to cellar five or six years. This would be the perfect foil to spicy Asian cuisine. (VH)



Babich Pinot Noir 2004
Marlborough, South Island $19.95 (000216)
(Previously reviewed in Winecurrent) A quite classy New Zealand Pinot Noir, with a fairly intense core of sweet and tart cherry accented with spicy and herbal notes. It's medium weight with light tannins and is a versatile food wine. You can happily pair this with rich vegetarian (mushroom-prominent) dishes, grilled lamb chops or seared tuna. (RP)


Sherwood Estate Wines Stratum Merlot/Pinot Noir/Pinotage 2003
New Zealand $15.95 (685826)
This is an interesting blend with the 60% Merlot sourced from Gisborne, 20% Pinot from Canterbury and 20% Pinotage from Marlborough. Interesting also, of course, is Pinotage from NZ. Expect spicy black plum and ripe berry fruit in this medium-bodied tangy offering. It's not overpowering, but delivers a rounded, yet clean and refreshing red at a very reasonable price. Pour with grilled ribs smothered in a spicy sauce. (VH)



Meinert "Devon Crest" 2002
WO Devon Valley $23.95 (686592)
This is a 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot blend that offers quite complex and intense dark fruit with hints of smoke and tar in the background. Medium bodied and well-made, it pairs well with grilled red meats. (RP)



Zind Humbrecht Riesling Guberschwihr 2004
AOC Alsace $32.95 (686246)
From an iconic producer, another excellent wine. This expresses impressive complexity with a wide range of flavours in a number of zones from apple to tropical. With zesty acidity and a nice seam of minerality, this is a great partner to freshly-shucked oysters. (RP)


Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Premier Cru Vaillons 2004
AOC Chablis Premier Cru $32.95 (700369)
A quiet nose of toast, floral notes and minerality sets up this medium-bodied, gorgeously-textured Burgundian. Oodles of spice and sweet tropical fruit on the palate while it finishes dry, clean, refreshing and warm. From a renowned producer of Chablis, this Premier Cru offers very good value. Pour alongside seared scallops drizzled with lemon from now to 2012. (VH)



Bouchard Père & Fils Monthélie 2003
AOC Monthélie $33.95 (661314)
Plush, mellow and smooth, this medium-bodied Pinot Noir is drinking well now. The subdued aromas of red cherry and spice box lead one into a flavour profile of plum and soft red berry. Light to medium-textured, it would marry well to lighter fare, say lightly spiced chicken and veal. (VH)


Frédéric Magnien "Crais de Chêne" 2003
AOC Fixin $33.95 (004846)
This offers a highly-perfumed nose of lilacs and spiced berry fruit plus layers of flavours including blueberry and strawberry. It is medium bodied and really gets into gear on the lengthy finish that is dry and loaded with fruit, including red currant. This is a lovely Fixin that will drink well now to 2012 with smoked chicken or turkey. (VH)


Patrice Rion Pinot Noir 2004
AOC Bourgogne $22.95 (650630)
A lighter style of Pinot Noir, this has good, slightly-tart cherry fruit in the aromas and flavours, dry texture and light tannins. It's sealed under screwcap to preserve the fruit-freshness, and it's best drunk in the next year or two. When you twist that cap off, have a grilled salmon fillet handy. (RP)


Delas "Saint-Esprit" 2004
AOC Côtes-du-Rhône $14.95 (729962)
I've long liked Delas wines, and I plan to stock up on this one at this price. A blend of 65% Syrah and 35% Grenache, it offers rich flavours of cherry, red plum and black berries with notes of herbs and spices. It's dry and medium bodied with a tangy texture, and goes very well with richly-seasoned red meat dishes. (RP)


Mas des Bressades "Cuvée Excellence" 2004
AOC Costières de Nîmes $17.95 (708750)
Rod and I both loved the Syrah characteristics in this perennially popular and classically made wine. Plum and prune compote aromas drift off the nose while the distinctive flavours are dense, rich and port-like. Spicy plum, peppery mint and rich sweet black berry flavours abound in this medium to full-bodied red. The finish is feisty, fleshy and fruit forward. Drink now to 2010 after buying a cartful. (VH)


Domaine du Crampilh Vieilles Vignes 2001
AOC Madiran $19.95 (673194)
Don't even think of drinking this for the next five years. Right now it's a mouthful of tannin, but you can also taste the dense black fruit and spiciness that will come through loud and clear once most of the tannin has fallen away. So buy a few, mark one for trying in 2011, and plan on drinking them all before 2020. (RP)



Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt Riesling Kabinett 2002
QmP, Kaseler Nies'chen, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer $19.95 (940809)
From the top site (only 4.4 ha) in the Ruwer Valley, this over-delivers in quality, flavour and value. An exuberant nose of ripe nectarine and slate forms the entry to this medium-bodied off dry beauty. Look for pineapple, mineral and pit fruit flavours, in spades, on the palate while the glorious finish offers that special sweet/sour, yin and yang experience that marries so well to spicy Asian and East Indian cuisine. Try with tandoori or butter chicken. (VH)


Lingenfelder "Bird Label" Riesling 2004
QmP Pfalz $13.95 (568634)
(previously reviewed in Winecurrent) Bottles of Rainer Lingenfelder's ornithological labels are deservedly sought after because they offer excellent quality at very good prices. This off-dry Riesling, which pairs beautifully with medium-spiced Thai dishes, is a perfect example. You get lovely, rich fruit (tropical, melon, citrus), zesty acidity, and great balance. It's a perfect pick-me-up for dreary winter days, too; open a bottle and sip it before dinner. (RP)



Saslove "Aviv" Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
Upper Gallilee $23.95 (652836)
Israeli wines are experiencing the kind of renaissance that many countries went through ten years ago. This full-bodied Cab, from a winery with a Canadian-born owner, is made in a definite New World style. It's full of sweet, ripe red and dark fruit flavours that head in the direction of jamminess, with some oak notes. Plush and delicious, it's a natural for richly-flavoured red meat dishes. (RP)



Mezzacorona Teroldego Rotaliano Riserva 2001
DOC Alto Adige/Trentino $14.95 (732222)
A step up from Mezzacorona's General List Fuedo Syrah - a quality wine and bargain in its own right - this deserves your attention. Rod and I loved the fruit forward attack then marvelled at its structure and balance. Gobs of black currant and cherry flavours run the entire length of the medium to full-bodied tasting experience. These are underpinned and counterbalanced with firm ripe tannins and a streak of zest right through to the lengthy finish. Enjoy with grilled meats now to 2012. Canny oenophiles will stock up. (VH)


Tenuta del Portale Aglianico del Vulture 2003
DOC Basilicata $16.95 (581892)
An unusual dusty nose of forest floor and dried black currants opens up this beautifully structured red. Rich black fruit (raspberry and cherry) attack the palate while good acidity and supple tannins provide interest and texture. The robust finish offers more of the same while hints of spicy plum and black pepper creep in. Drink now to 2011. (VH)


Di Majo Norante Contado Aglianico 2003
DOC Aglianico del Molise $17.95 (967208)
One of three Aglianicos in the release, this is very impressive. It's medium bodied with dense, full-flavoured fruit. Look for dark fruit and berries with big notes of spice and coffee. It pairs very well with well-seasoned veal chop and garlic mash. (RP)


Casetta Barolo 1999
DOCG Piedmont $33.95 (004523)
A Barolo of this quality and price is unusual - don't miss it. Starting to show some age on the bricky rim, but good to go to 2012. Oodles of aromas (lilac, spiced currant and truffle) plus gargantuan flavours of sweet black juicy fruit provide a plush and profound experience. The lengthy finish delivers ripe tannin and lip smacking fruit. (VH)


Rivera "Cappellaccio" Aglianico Riserva 2001
DOC Castel del Monte $17.95 (984120)
Not for the faint of heart, this offers a lifted nose of spiced currant and licorice before blasting off with robust flavours of Bing cherry and spicy black plum. This medium to full-bodied red also has a noticeable tannic underpinning and great overall balance. Drinkable now, with four or five hours decanting, or enjoy to 2012 with venison or a rich meaty game stew. The price to quality ratio tipped heavily in your favour. (VH)


Cesari "Il Bosco" Amarone Della Valpolicella 2000
DOC Veneto $55.95 (641795)
Not inexpensive, yet it offers outstanding value. It opens with a spectacular aromatic gusher of tar, black licorice and bramble berry aromatics. This full-bodied red blend oozes with concentrated rich black fruit drenching the palate and dazzling the senses. The finish is lengthy and luxurious and offers great balance. With considerable decanting, you could try it now, but will come into its own 2008 to 2014. (VH)

Marqués de Cáceres Gran Reserva 1998
DOC Rioja $34.95 (976670)
This is already eight years old, and it's ready to drink now or to cellar another five years or more. The aromas and flavours are complex and you'll find plum, cherry, notes of dried berries and coffee. The tannins are still firm and the structure is impressive. (RP)


Marqués de Vitoria Gran Reserva 1996
DOC Rioja $31.95 (699678)
More reserved and restrained than rich and robust, this begins with beguiling aromas of a flower garden (lilacs and roses). There is good red berry (currant and cranberry) fruit coupled with generous acidity and drying tannin. Drink this ten-year-old, medium-bodied offering now to 2008 with pasta in a rich tomato-based sauce. (VH)

Cheers, Vic and Rod

 

We use the following symbols when rating wines:

	Wines achieving nirvana
	Wines of excellence
	Wines well worth trying
	Wines below average, but drinkable
	Wines better avoided, unless desperate
	Represents a half star
	We both agree —a brilliant wine!
	Drink now and over the next 2 years
	Drink now and over the next 5 years
	Place in cellar