We all send best wishes to you, your family, friends and loved ones for a Merry Christmas and Happy Holiday season. We also extend fervent hope and prayers for everyone to enjoy a healthy, prosperous 2019 in a world at peace.
Louise, Lisa, Dave, Vic
December 3, 2018 Newsletter
Newsletter Highlights Include:
- Exceptional-value wine
– 12 wines, from a total of 103 wines in this newsletter that are available in the LCBO, meet strict quality-price guidelines. The wines range from $13.95 to $24.95 and are found throughout the newsletter identified via the value checkmark above. Strict guidelines? Click here. - Louise loves – 2015 Pierre Sparr Grand Cru ‘Mambourg’ Pinot Gris earned 92 points at $25.95 found under France: White Wine; 2010 Château L’Espérance earned 94 points at $20.95 found under France: Red Wine; 2016 Château Puygueraud earned 92 points at $30.95 found under France: Red Wine; and, of course, all her exceptional-value wines.
- Dave’s Delights – 2014 Emiliana ‘Coyam’ earned 92 points @ $29.95 found under Chile: Red Wine; Mollydooker ‘Carnival of Love’ Shiraz 2016 earned 92 points @ $79.95 found under Australia Red Wine; and, of course, all his exceptional-value wines.
- Lisa Likes – Girard Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 earned 90 points @ $39.95 found under California: Red Wine.
- Vic Picks – 2013 Henry of Pelham ‘Cuvée Catharine – Carte Blanche - Estate - Blanc de Blanc’ Sparkling Wine earned 93 points @ $44.95 found under sparkling wine; 2016 Wakefield ‘Jaraman’ Shiraz earned 95 points @ $24.95 found under Australia: Red Wine; 2016 Tenuta San Guido ‘Le Difese’ earned 93 points @ $34.95 found under Italy: Red Wine; 2012 Guerrieri Rizzardi ‘3E Cru’ Amarone della Valpolicella Classico earned 94 points @ $53.95 found under Italy: Red Wine; and, of course, all his exceptional-value wines.
Vintages Release: December 8, 2018
Liqueur
94
Nonino Prunella Mandorlata
Friuli, Italy $49.95 (348862) 700 mL 33.0% alcohol
Light-amber hued, this sweet liqueur is pure ambrosia; it fills the air with aromas of spicy ginger, almond and honey. The palate’s treated to mouthfuls of warm nectar with crème caramel, honeyed spice cake and gingered treacle intertwined with good tang and acidity on the finish and aftertaste. Relax and sip after dinner with almond biscotti or Manchego cheese while listening to soft music and/or contemplating your blessings. (Vic Harradine)
Fortified Wine: Port
• The label of the following Sandeman 20-Year-Old Tawny Port can be confusing, as can every vintage-dated Tawny Port. There are four common age-related designations for Tawny Port: 10-, 20-, 30- and 40-year old. However, the total wine inside any is not that exact age. The designations are highly regulated and judged by a tasting panel. They are judged to be, ‘of the quality and appearance that a 10, 20, 30 or forty-year old Tawny should exhibit’. When in Porto, I met with a winemaker involved with these regulations and was told there are a variety of vintages in each bottle, some older, some younger and some, by chance, the age of the designation. Wines are tasted blind and either rejected or accepted by the panel of expert winemakers. My understanding is, the average age of the wines that are accepted, are almost always somewhat older than the designation indicated on the label.
90
Sandeman 20-Year-Old Tawny Port
DOP Porto $64.95 (116178) 20.0% alcohol
Tawny Port gains its name from the tawny colour as a result of many years aged in barrel—resolving tannin and imparting a silky-smooth, lip-smacking experience. Aromas of burnt sugar and spice abound on this medium-full bodied, nicely textured gem. It blankets the palate with an über-sweet river of orange marmalade, treacle and butterscotch toffee. This is creamy smooth and pours well with fruit flan, crème caramel or soft white cheese. (Vic Harradine)
92
Delaforce Vintage Port 2000
DOP Duoro $58.95 (344861) 21.0% alcohol
This Vintage Port has definitely hit its stride with delightful aromas of raisin, molasses and smoked Beemster cheese. It’s full bodied and thick with its sweetness offset by a good balance of acid and nicely integrated tannins. Flavours of caramel and butterscotch linger in the finish. This is drinking wonderfully right now and will keep doing so for at least another eight years. Raise a glass along with your fruit cake after your holiday dinner. (Dave Isaacs)
Champagne
93
Lanson ‘Gold Label Brut’ Champagne 2005
AOC Champagne $89.95 (722520) 12.5% alcohol
Biscuit dough, leesy notes and hints of caramel aromas on the nose provide segue for a bubbles-filled line of racy citrus, peel marmalade and ripe peach and pear interlaced with steely minerality. This is crisp, clean and refreshing throughout, Lanson does not allow malolactic fermentation and also matures its vintage-dated Champagne five years, two years longer than the minimum allowable time. This has the depth and complexity to be paired with fillet of firm fish. (Vic Harradine)
90
Moët & Chandon ‘Grand Vintage’ Brut Champagne 2008
AOC Champagne $91.95 (69773) 12.5% alcohol
This opens with leesy, nutty, toasty, mineral aromas that precede a mountain of mousse, aka bubbles, when poured, then an endless stream of fine-bead bubbles winding their way to the top while in the glass. It’s a lighter-style than I remember from previous vintages, although still delivering a lively flavour profile—peach and pear—borne on a tang-laden line of lemon and wisps of white grapefruit. It pours well with oysters Kirkpatrick or lemon Sole. (Vic Harradine)
93
Ruinart ‘R de Ruinart’ Brut Champagne Non-Vintage
AOC Champagne $85.95 (189878) 12.5% alcohol
Not your average Champagne, and not in your average Champagne bottle—it’s squat, distinctive, attractive. There’s a wonderful mélange of balanced-on-a-pin ripe fruit, acidity and mouthfeel. It opens with a surge of mousse-releasing aromas of floral and nutty notes before bathing the palate with textured, fresh, ripe fruit—pear, apple and nectarine—interwoven with lively, tangy lemon curd. It finishes crisp and refreshing. (Vic Harradine)
• The following Non-Vintage Taittinger ‘Nocturne’ Champagne is dressed for a special occasion with the purple-hued bottle all glitter and glam. However, the contents reflect studious blending with the fruit—40% chardonnay and a 60% mix of pinot noir and pinot meunier—carefully chosen from over thirty different villages within Champagne and from a multitude of past vintages. It’s also off-dry from an elevated dosage of 17.5 g/l of sugar cane. It’s at the very lower end of ‘Sec’ or Dry in Champagne regulations, but your taste buds may alert you it’s somewhat off-dry, but still far from sweet or cloying.
91
Taittinger ‘Nocturne’ Champagne Non-Vintage
Champagne, France $68.95 (618389) 12.5% alcohol
Pale-yellow hued in the glass, fine-bead bubbles carry delicate aromas of nectarine, brioche and lemon. It bathes the palate with round, creamy-smooth flavours of ripe Mirabelle plum, honeyed melon and wisps of lemon pie filling. There’s tang on the finish balancing the off-dry ripe flavours and leaves you enjoying the yin and yang of the sweet and tang. Pour on its own or with foie gras or creamy cheese like Stilton, Brie or Camembert. (Vic Harradine)
92
Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin Champagne Brut Rosé Vintage 2008
AOC Champagne $109.95 (588475) 12.5% alcohol
This is perfect as a welcoming wine with its gorgeous hue in the glass or an aperitif or served with briny morsels from the sea—oysters or prawn ceviche. It’s lighter styled with subdued aromas of leesy notes, strawberry and herbs emanating from an energetic mousse of fine-bead bubbles that continue to wind their way to the top of the glass almost endlessly. It tingles on the palate with excellent tang, minerality and wisps of pit fruit and racy citrus. Drink now to 2025. (Vic Harradine)
Sparkling Wine
89 
Featherstone ‘Cuvée Joy’ Sparkling Wine 2013
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $34.95 (310334) 12.5% alcohol
The price-quality balance tips well in your favour; keep a few on hand. Lively aromas of baking brioche, nutty notes and citrus are harbingers of a glorious explosion of fine-bead mousse when pouring followed by endless streams of tiny bubbles wending their way to top of the glass. Flavours of lemon curd, mineral notes and ripe apple and pear dominate the palate. It finishes in a blaze of delightful tang; crisp, clean and refreshing. A great way to welcome guests and you can continue serving with appetizers. (Vic Harradine)
• The following méthode traditionelle, vintage-dated, 2013 Henry of Pelham ‘Cuvée Catharine – Carte Blanche - Estate - Blanc de Blanc’ is named for family matriarch Catherine Smith—Henry of Pelham’s wife. It was hand harvested, bunch selected from 100% chardonnay, whole-cluster pressed, 20% barrel fermented, maturing more than four years in bottle on its lees before disgorgement.
93
Henry of Pelham ‘Cuvée Catharine – Carte Blanche - Estate - Blanc de Blanc’ 2013
VQA Short Hills Bench $44.95 (315200) 12.5% alcohol
As always, one of the top traditional-method, vintage-dated sparkling wines on the market, regardless of country of origin. Aromas of leesy notes, buttered toast and flinty minerality make way for a profusion of fine-bead bubbles that endlessly wind their way to the top of your glass. This has complexity, purity of fruit, good tension, is balanced on a pin with a painter’s palette of lively flavour—a surge of racy lemon and lime tang adorned with white nectarine, nutty and mineral notes dazzle the palate infusing the lingering finish. This is classy, elegant and wired for sipping on its own for two or with food when entertaining. (Vic Harradine)
93
Ca’del Bosco ‘Cuvée Prestige’ Franciacorta Brut Multi-Vintage
DOCG Franciacorta $42.95 (105353) 12.5% alcohol
Hand-harvested 75% chardonnay, 10% pinot blanc, 15% pinot noir fruit was vinified ‘Metodo Classico’ with soft handling of grapes and blending with high-quality reserve wines before a secondary fermentation in the bottle you buy. This spent an average of 25 months on its lees gaining depth and complexity. It offers lifted aromas of lemon zest, white peach and biscuit concentrating into mouth-filling flavours of pink grapefruit, red apple, toasted brioche on the palate. It’s well balanced with fine, persistent effervescence and crisp, long finish. (Lisa Isabelle)
89
Bailly Lapierre ‘Réserve Brut’ Crémant de Bourgogne
AOC Burgundy $19.95 (991562) 12.0% alcohol
Delicate aromas of lemongrass, yeasty notes and orchard fruit introduce a profusion of fine-bead bubbles that carry flavours of racy lemon zest and tangy white grapefruit racing over the palate with wild abandon infusing the finish and aftertaste. This is clean and crisp with notes of lime and minerality on the lip-smacking finish and aftertaste. Very good value, it pours exceedingly well with seafood—ceviche and sushi. (Vic Harradine)
87
Nino Franco ‘Brut’ Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore
DOCG Veneto $23.95 (349662) 11.0% alcohol
Aromas of toasty notes and binned apple introduce this light-on-its-feet prosecco. Look for serous flavours of soft citrus and honeydew melon on the palate and mid-length finish. This is a perfect bubbly when looking for a delicate, non-intrusive, sparkling wine. (Vic Harradine)
Ontario: White Wine
87
Charles Baker ‘B-Side’ Riesling 2017
VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara Escarpment $21.95 (523845) 10.3% alcohol
This medium-light bodied slightly petrol-scented white offers a shy nose of yellow orchard fruit. It flows on the palate nicely carrying flavours of ripe pear, golden apple, green apple acidity and mineral notes typical of the varietal. The fruity-mineral finish is clean and dryer than expected considering the alcohol level. Pour now with salty appetizers. (Louise Boutin)
89
13th Street ‘June’s Vineyard’ Chardonnay 2017
VQA Creek Shore, Niagara Peninsula $21.95 (236745) 13.0% alcohol
Only 450 cases of this unoaked chardonnay were produced. The nose is aromatic—stone fruit, Meyer lemon, white flower and mineral notes. Complete malolactic conversion plus six months of maturation on lees contribute to the creamy texture adding richness and complexity to both mouthfeel and palate flavours—poached pear, apricot, lemon curd and an almond note drive the comforting warm, tangy, medium-long finish. Delicious on its own, it’s also a good companion to crispy fried calamari under a squeeze of fresh lemon. (Louise Boutin)
87
13th Street ‘June’s Vineyard’ Riesling 2016
VQA Creek Shore, Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (147512) 12.0% alcohol
Nearly off-dry with its 12g/L of residual sugar, this single-varietal white shows petrol notes along with ripe pear and honeysuckle aromas peeking through. Expect a little tingle on the tongue from residual fermentation which gives a lively mouthfeel and lifts flavours of poached pear, ginger and chalky minerality on the mid-palate. It’s medium-bodied and pairs well with your favourite selection of sushi. (Louise Boutin)
88 
Featherstone Estate Winery ‘Four Feathers’ 2017
VQA Niagara Peninsula $14.95 (341586) 12.7% alcohol
Delicate aromas of ripe pineapple, floral notes and soft spice introduce a sweet-tinged wash of ripe apple, peach and pear followed by a racy streak of tang with white grapefruit and wisps of mandarin orange to the fore. This is nicely balanced with lots of pizzazz. It’s medium-weight with texture, good focus and a lengthy lip-smacking aftertaste. Pour with grilled or skillet-seared seafood. (Vic Harradine)
91
Flat Rock Riesling 2016
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $17.95 (43281) 9.5% alcohol
The very pale-gold appearance of this wine belies the fascinating nose of herbs, peach and pear with wisps of petrol aromas. It’s medium bodied and slightly off dry with flavours of pear and peach accompanied by a delightfully lemon tang. The lemon hangs on through the finish, making the entire tasting experience crisp and refreshing. This will go very nicely with a plate of spicy pad Thai drizzled with lime juice. (Dave Isaacs)
91
The Foreign Affair Riesling 2013
VQA Niagara Peninsula $23.95 (127290) 11.8% alcohol
Piquant spice, racy citrus and wisps of petrol and saline minerality abound. On the palate, this is off-dry with sweet and tang delivered by yin and yang flavours—soft, sustain flavours of white nectarine and apricot juxtaposed with assertive, racy lemon curd and grapefruit. It finishes harmonious and balanced-on-a-pin. Pour with spicy Asian cuisine like General Tso’s chicken, Pad Thai or charcuterie. (Vic Harradine)
91
The Tragically Hip ‘Ahead by a Century’ Chardonnay 2017
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (483875) 13.0% alcohol
Celebrity wines are not always billboard chart worthy, this one is. This blend of chardonnay with a splash of sémillon starts with reserved aromas—pear, apple and fermentation notes but truly comes out of its shell as soon as it hits the tongue with its beautiful flavours—poached pear, caramel, coconut, vanilla and the perfect squirt of citrus acidity. Eight months of barrel maturation on lees and full malolactic conversion bring richness and complexity that’s carried into the long, dry, fruity and nutty, gorgeous finish. Pour now to 2021 with baked Brie and roasted almonds. (Louise Boutin)
Ontario: Red Wine
87
The Tragically Hip ‘Fully Completed - Grand Reserve Red 2016
VQA Ontario $24.95 (411595) 13.0% alcohol
Hip fans will recognize the name and label from their 1992 album. In the glass, this medium-garnet hued blend—38% cabernet franc, 35% merlot, 27% cabernet sauvignon shows an involved nose of forest floor, cherry, dry rose petal, potpourri and laurel aromas. Stainless steel fermented, full malolactic conversion and 14 months of American and French barrel maturation give this wine an über-round mouthfeel that’s almost sweet, with medium acidity and very soft tannin. Expect flavours of candied red fruit, blackberry jam and licorice with a spark of tartness in the finish and aftertaste. Pour with gourmet burgers. (Louise Boutin)
90
Henry of Pelham ‘Estate’ Cabernet-Merlot 2012
VQA Short Hills Bench, Niagara Escarpment $24.95 14.0% alcohol
A ruby-shaded blend—50% cabernet sauvignon, 46% merlot, 4% malbec—it aged 18 months in oak barrel, both French and American, 40% new. It displays signs of maturation with garnet hues on the rim. The nose is expressive with dry cherry, dry fig, allspice, pepper, violet and sweet smoke aromas. It flows over the palate with delicious flavours—ripe blackberry, cassis, black plum skin, dark chocolate and a warming note of freshly-cracked black pepper. This is full bodied with plenty of structure and acidity and features a medium-long and dry fruity-peppery finish. Aerate/decant two hours and pair with Stuffed Portobello Mushroom (Louise Boutin)
Okanagan Valley: White Wine
90
Quail’s Gate Chardonnay 2016
VQA Okanagan Valley $24.95 (377770) 13.0% alcohol
This light-golden hued, medium-bodied white was mostly aged in stainless steel tank with a small portion matured in old oak barrels to add complexity and subtle wood character. The nose is quite aromatic with juicy peach, poached apricot, green apple, vanilla, and nutmeg aromas. Creamy and ample on the palate it features ripe stone fruit and unctuous lemon yogurt complemented with a chalky minerality. Vanilla notes reappear in the persistent and pleasantly warm finish. Pair with crispy coconut prawns. (Louise Boutin)
Okanagan Valley: Red Wine
• The following 2015 Burrowing Owl Meritage showcases a meticulous maturation process of individual grape variety fermentation and ageing in barrels for 18 months followed three months of barrel ageing once all blended and then a few months of bottle ageing before release.
90
Burrowing Owl ‘Meritage’ 2015
VQA Okanagan Valley $57.95 (343038) 14.5% alcohol
Meritage is a blend of Bordeaux varietals where any part of the blend can’t exceed 90%. This one, from a top producer in the Okanagan, includes predominantly merlot, cabernet franc and cabernet sauvignon with a splash each of malbec and petit verdot. It showcases a woody nose with dry fruit, cured meat, tobacco and pepper aromas. A meticulous maturation process results in a harmonious cocktail of flavours—ripe cooked black fruit, dry herb, wild mushroom and piquant pepper perfectly balanced with mellow tannin and tangy finish and aftertaste. This full-bodied red has character and finesse and is wonderful with barbecue pork ribs. (Louise Boutin)
89
50th Parallel Estate Winery Pinot Noir 2015
VQA Okanagan Valley $39.95 (609164) 14.5% alcohol
Don’t look for Burgundy-styled pinot in this full-bodied, fully extracted red. An expressive nose of forest floor, dry cherry, baking spice and dry rose petal fill the air. On the palate, a velvety mouthfeel introduces classic flavours of tart cherry, dry herb and earthy mushroom until grippy tannin and high-octane take over in the warm, savoury, dry and lengthy finish. Pour now to 2025. Aerate/decant two hours and serve with dried-cherry braised, beef shanks. (Louise Boutin)
California: White Wine
91
Baletto ‘Estate Grown Estate Bottled Russian River Valley’ Chardonnay 2015
Russian River Valley, Sonoma County $37.95 (629402) 13.7% alcohol
Involved notes of apple, mineral notes and a fruit bowl of tropical fruit aromas herald a wash of tang-laden flavours with lemon-lime racing over the palate intertwined with notions of sugared and grilled red grapefruit. It’s light-medium bodied with good mouthfeel and is clean and crisp throughout. Pour with mussels steamed in white wine and leeks. (Vic Harradine)
90
Cakebread Cellars Chardonnay 2015
Napa Valley $69.95 (709717) 14.1% alcohol
This medium-full bodied, nicely textured chardonnay opens with aromas of vanilla, toast and caramel. Green apple, ripe pear and tangy citrus notes blanket the palate coupled with adornments baking spice and sweet vanilla. It finishes dry and refreshing with flavours of vanilla and melon framed by plenty of tangy acidity.
91
Robert Mondavi Fumé Blanc 2017
Napa Valley $22.95 (221887) 14.5% alcohol
Smoky and citrus on the nose, this iconic sauvignon blanc dishes up a crisp line of electrifying acidity on the palate with lemon-lime and blood orange nicely enhanced by ripe pear and tropical fruit. It remains mouth-wateringly good on the dry finish and aftertaste. Pair with pan-seared fish or crumbled chèvre over olive-oil dressed arugula. (Vic Harradine)
California: Red Wine
90
Beringer ‘Quantum’ 2015
Napa Valley $79.95 (362400) 13.5% alcohol
Cheery/berry fruit, mocha and peppery spice aromas set the table for a smorgasbord of flavour with tang-infused pie cherry and passionfruit along with hints of black bramble berry and bittersweet chocolate to the fore. This is early in this wine’s maturity with palate-drying, still-evolving tannin quite apparent. Best cellared 2021 to 2026. (Vic Harradine)
90
Girard Cabernet Sauvignon 2015
Napa Valley $39.95 (231712) 14.9% alcohol
This expressive, well-balanced red was produced with grapes sourced from the Mount Veeder sub-region of Napa Valley. The nose unfolds gently with blackberry, cassis and sweet cherry aromas supported by hints of graphite, pipe tobacco, cedar and violet. A wash of ripe dark fruit envelops the palate adorned with dark chocolate, espresso bean and sweet vanilla. Dry, medium bodied with firm tannin, balancing fresh acidity and refined structure, it offers a delicious, lengthy, fruit-driven finish. Enjoy with magret de canard and plum compote. (Lisa Isabelle)
92
Irony ‘Small Lot Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2016
North Coast $24.95 (25106) 14.5% alcohol
This California cabernet is very well priced and has excellent balance—it’s quite approachable now after a two-hour aeration decant. Sweet-tinged fruit blankets the palate with briary berry, black plum and juicy black Bing cherry to the fore. The palate fruit is adorned with excellent balance, good tang and plenty of charm. It finishes dry and delicious with fruit replays and hints of mocha and vanilla. This pours well with grilled or roast beef. (Vic Harradine)
90
J. Lohr ‘Fog’s Reach’ Pinot Noir 2014
Arroyo Seco, Monterey County $46.95 (186148) 14.9% alcohol
Aromas of earthiness, dill weed and hints of oak open this hi-octane pinot. A rich, sweet flow of dark black currant, bramble berry jam and black plum compote coat the palate while mouth-watering, balancing tang and acidity appear on the back palate and finish. There’s solid underpinning of still-evolving tannin that’s not commonly experienced in pinot—not for the faint of heart or palate. Aerate/decant for three hours before pouring alongside festive fowl with all the fixings. (Vic Harradine)
88
McManis Zinfandel 2017
Lodi $21.95 (256735) 14.0% alcohol
There’s a lively nose of primary fruit—cherry, blackberry blueberry—mingling with oaky aromas. Rich, flavours of kirsch liqueur and dark berry fruit interlaced with mixed spice and a supple tannin structure bathe the palate. This is medium-full bodied and satin textured with a lengthy balanced finish. Aerate/decant three hours pouring with well-seasoned, grilled medium-rare, beefsteak. (Vic Harradine)
94
Stags’ Leap Estate ‘The Leap’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2015
Stage Leap District, Napa Valley $119.95 (142844) 14.7% alcohol
Inky black in the glass, aromas of grilled savory herbs, oaky notes and forest floor waft easily. It’s a full-bodied behemoth showcasing persistent purity of fruit, depth, complexity and age-ability. Teeth-staining flavours of black currant, black plum and dark cherry mingle with baking spice, savoury herbs and peppery spice envelop the palate along with tangy acidity providing deft balance. The back palate and finish bring on the tannin that is both dry and drying. The wine matured 20 months in French oak, 37% new. Pop corks 2022-2039. (Vic Harradine)
91
Sterling Merlot 2015
Napa Valley $29.95 (330241) 14.5% alcohol
Dark berry fruit, peppery spice and cedar aromas make way for a gusher of ripe dark fruit coating the palate—ripe mulberry, black bramble berry and wisps of blueberry nicely balanced with tang-laden passionfruit. This showcases excellent balance between the acidity and fruit, depth, structure and complexity. It’s medium-plus weight with good mouthfeel and lingering finish that reveals still-evolving tannin. Aerate/decant three hours before service. (Vic Harradine)
91
Aberrant Cellars ‘Gran Moraine Vineyard’ Pinot Noir 2014
Willamette Valley $48.95 (609156) 13.8% alcohol
Smoky notes, roasted herbs and exotic spice aromas set the stage for a solid line of racy acidity bathing the palate with red currant and cranberry to the fore. It’s medium bodied with good texture and a lengthy finish and aftertaste that’s laced with plenty of pizzazz and lip-smacking tang. Give this a go with smoked duck breasts over mango slices and a verjus-dressed salad. (Vic Harradine)
89
Acrobat Pinot Noir 2015
Oregon $28.95 (421149) 13.5% alcohol
Piquant spice and red fruit aromas provide clarion call for the nicely balanced stream of of palate flavours—black plum, red currant and dark cherry—bathe the palate interwoven with cherry cordial and spice box, This is medium weight and creamy smooth with a long balanced finish; it’s also good value. (Vic Harradine)
92
Chateau Ste. Michelle Cabernet Sauvignon 2016
Columbia Valley $21.95 (269357) 13.5% alcohol
Lifted, spirited aromas of piquant spice and berry fruit show the way to a gorgeous river of red crunchy fruit—cherry, plum and passionfruit—mingling with peppery spice and savory herbs. This is medium-plus bodied with creamy-smooth texture and a long balanced finish and aftertaste. There’s very good value here. (Vic Harradine)
Argentina: White Wine
89
Catena ‘High Mountain Vines’ Chardonnay 2017
Mendoza $19.95 (918805) 13.0% alcohol
This wine has a light, bright-gold colour with an entertaining nose of buttered popcorn, peach, and slight tropical notes reminiscent of banana. The winery only allows some of the wine to undergo malolactic fermentation, giving a full-bodied and creamy mouthfeel while retaining a good balance of tart acidity. Flavours of pear and granny smith apples linger pleasantly in the finish. Enjoy this wine with sautéed, buttered Haddock. (Dave Isaacs)
Argentina: Red Wine
90
Kaiken ‘Las Rocas - Ultra’ Malbec 2015
Mendoza $19.95 (50849) 14.5% alcohol
This perennial favourite dishes up a full-bodied, generously textured mouthful of ripe dark fruit and a boatload of glorious tang at a terrific price. Black Bing cherry and juicy black plum mingle with balancing pomegranate decorated with mixed spice on the palate. The cherry and plum replay on the finish is bolstered by juicy tang, firm structure, baking spice and dark coffee. Pour with a thick, rare-grilled beef tenderloin. (Vic Harradine)
92
La Posta Pizzella Malbec 2017
Mendoza $15.95 (166298) 13.0% alcohol
There is a lot to love in this exceptionally well-priced wine. It’s dark red, almost opaque, in colour, with a fascinating nose of damp wood, earth, moss, and hints of fresh thyme. It’s jammy and smooth in the mouth. The tannins are well integrated and sit in the background allowing mouth-watering flavours of cherry and blackberry to shine through. There is a wonderful balance of acid that carries a long fruity and herbaceous finish. You could lay this in the cellar for another couple of years, but better to enjoy it today with some herb-rubbed roast beef. (Dave Isaacs)
89
Trapiche ‘Gran Medalla’ Malbec 2014
Uco Valley $24.95 (467977) 14.5% alcohol
The inky-black cherry colour of this wine looks beautiful and dramatic in the glass. There’s a nose of fresh mint leaves, cherry, smoke and vanilla. On the palate it’s medium to full bodied, with flavours of smoke and cherry and an excellent balance of acidity. The tannins are smooth and though they start faint, they grow to dominate the long fruity finish. This wine shows good ageing potential, 10 more years at least, at an attractive price. Enjoy with a medium-rare steak. (Dave Isaacs)
Chile: Red Wine
92
Emiliana ‘Coyam’ 2014
DO Colchagua Valley $29.95 (63891) 14.5% alcohol
Emiliana strives to be environmentally sustainable in all its operations. Their vines are grown following organic and biodynamic principles. The result is some exceptionally fine wines that are pure pleasure to enjoy. This wine is a blend of six different varieties, mostly syrah and carmenère, and is opaque black cherry in colour. It has an enticing nose of spice, coffee, dried mint and dried cedar. On the palate it’s full-bodied with dominant flavours of vanilla, cherry, and black coffee. The tannins are up front but very smooth carrying the whole tasting experience to a long spice and coffee flavoured finish. This can stay in the cellar until 2025, but can be enjoyed today with a beef pot roast with mushroom gravy. (Dave Isaacs)
• The following 2014 Primus Cabernet Sauvignon was selected by LCBO Vintages as a ‘Wine of the Month’.
90
Primus Cabernet Sauvignon 2014
DO Maipo Valley $19.95 (486053) 14.0% alcohol
This is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon and spent 12 months in French oak barrel, 20% new. It sports a dark red colour with a slight cast of orange. There’s an expressive nose of dried moss, dried fruit and herbs, all nicely balanced with tart acidity. It’s medium bodied with flavours of vanilla and sour cherry along with tannins that sit in the background for a while and then grow to linger on the finish. This is a very expressive, good-value red. Drink before 2022 along with beef ribs slathered in tangy barbecue sauce. (Dave Isaacs)
Australia: White Wine
90
Robert Oatley ‘Signature Series’ Chardonnay 2016
Margaret River, Western Australia $18.95 (350900) 12.5% alcohol
Powerful aromas of toasty oak and spice on the nose precede a balanced and beautiful flow of sweet-tinged Golden Delicious apple, ripe pear and Mirabelle plum nicely juxtaposed with a glorious rush of racy lemon acidity on the back palate and persisting through the long finish—clean, crisp and refreshing. This is medium-full bodied with good texture and delivers a price-quality balance tipped wildly in your favour. Pour with roast bird and all the extras. (Vic Harradine)
Australia: Red Wine
89
The Black Chook Shiraz/Viognier 2016
McLaren Vale/Padthaway, South Australia $18.95 (66738) 14.5% alcohol
This opens with aromas of dark berry fruit with hints of black plum, black licorice and floral notes before a deluge of stewed, bramble berry fruit and black plum compote blanket the palate mingling with dark chocolate, kirsch liqueur and sweet vanilla flavour. This is full bodied and creamy smooth on the palate and fully fruited on the extended finish. Pour with grilled back ribs mopped with spicy barbecue sauce. (Vic Harradine)
92
Mollydooker ‘Carnival of Love’ Shiraz 2016
McLaren Vale $79.95 (242743) 16.0% alcohol
There is nothing subtle about this blockbuster from Mollydooker, which is matured in all new American oak barrels. The wine is a dramatic opaque cherry hue and explodes with aromas of vanilla, mint, pepper, cedar and cherry. It’s full-bodied on the palate with flavours of cherry, orange pekoe tea and vanilla. The tannins are smooth and lend a fascinating bite to the finish that makes you want to come back for more. This is drinking nicely right now and will keep through to 2025. Pair it with roast beef, roast turkey or anything else you would serve at a holiday feast. (Dave Isaacs)
• In its relatively short wine life, the following 2016 Wakefield Cabernet Sauvignon has been awarded nine Gold medals, one double Gold and a swag of Silver and Bronze in national and international competitions.
88
Wakefield Cabernet Sauvignon 2016
Clare Valley, Australia $19.95 (744235) 14.0% alcohol
Ripe and uber-ripe dark fruit aromas—mulberry and black currant dominate the nose with hints of spice and espresso roast. It floods the palate with flavours of dark bittersweet chocolate and mint robed in black plum compote, blackberry jam and sweet kirsch liqueur. It finishes long and luscious with notions of cherry clafoutie and piquant spice. Pour with grilled back ribs slathered with spicy barbecue sauce. (Vic Harradine)
• The following 2016 Wakefield ‘Jaraman’ Shiraz is from one of Australia’s prominent and premium family wineries, they are a charter member of Australia’s First Families of Wine. Due to trademark restrictions abroad they are known by Wakefield in Canada and other countries, and by their family name, ‘Taylors’ now and for the past three generations in Australia.
95
Wakefield ‘Jaraman’ Shiraz 2016
McLaren Vale/Clare Valley, South Australia $24.95 (377036) 14.5% alcohol
This has excellent depth, complexity and balance throughout. Exotic incense, and red berry fruit aromas precede a glorious wash of tang-laden ambrosia delivered by luscious mouthfuls of ripe mulberry fruit, black cherry, cassis and kirsch liqueur flavour adorned with dark bittersweet chocolate and notes of espresso roast. It’s full bodied and fully textured with a lengthy mouth-watering finish. It’s drinking well now and will to 2025. (Vic Harradine)
New Zealand: White Wine
90
Wither Hills Sauvignon Blanc 2017
Marlborough $19.95 (919514) 13.0% alcohol
This is an unmistakable Marlborough sauvignon blanc that bursts with aromas of freshly cut grass, fresh celery and canned asparagus. There is a slight tickle on the tongue with lots of zippy acidity, a refreshing juiciness and flavours of lemon and grapefruit. The finish is long and lively with an interesting bite. This is very good value and will go nicely with a plate of poached white fish drizzled with freshly squeezed lemon and fresh garden vegetables on the side. (Dave Isaacs)
New Zealand: Red Wine
89
Giesen ‘The Brothers’ Pinot Noir 2016
Marlborough $32.95 (402685) 13.5% alcohol
This pleasant pinot is made with grapes grown in the Wairau Valley region of Marlborough. It’s medium to light red in colour with a gentle nose of cherry, moss and vanilla. On the palate it’s light bodied and smooth. There are significant tannins, but they are well integrated and smoothly balanced by the tart acidity. Look for flavours of sour cherry and a long raspberry finish. This will go very nicely with roast duck and can also sit in the cellar until 2022. (Dave Isaacs)
South Africa: Red Wine
91
Avondale ‘Jonty's Ducks Pekin’ Red 2014
WO Paarl $16.95 (383547) 14.0% alcohol
Made from organically grown vines, using ducks to control pests and fermented using natural yeasts, this wine is pure pleasure. It’s dark cherry, almost opaque, with an enticing nose of pepper, dried herbs and cassis aromas. It’s medium bodied on the palate with juicy flavours of cherry, plum and raspberry. There’s good balance of acidity and strong but smoothly integrated tannins. It’s ready to enjoy today along with stewed meats and hard cheese or keep in the cellar until 2022. (Dave Isaacs)
89
Barista Pinotage 2018
WO Robertson $15.95 (172585) 13.5% alcohol
This wine is in the ‘love it or hate it’ style of pinotage and deliberately formulated by winemaker Bertus Fourie to enhance the coffee characteristics. It has a strong nose of dark, black coffee punctuated by notes of semi-sweet chocolate and smoked meat. It’s medium bodied on the palate with smooth moderate tannins and a good balance of acid. The taste is strongly reminiscent of a café mocha with a shot of cherry syrup. It’s worth trying just for the adventure. You could lay it down for a few years to see what would happen, but is best enjoyed soon. Coffee lovers will like it on its own, but it will also go very well with smoked meats and cheeses. (Dave Isaacs)
France: White Wine
92
Pierre Sparr Grand Cru Mambourg Pinot Gris 2015
AOC Alsace Grand Cru $25.95 (686451) 13.0% alcohol
This distinctive spiral-design bottle houses one of the 51 Alsace Grand Crus from a prestigious producer. Aromas of quince, über-ripe pineapple, beeswax, candied fruits and white flower are a feast for the nose. A delicious off-dry wash of honey-poached orchard fruit flavours coat the palate followed with tangy citrus and a hint of ginger drying the clean, spicy long finish. This is the perfect companion to Pad Thai or pan-seared foie gras. (Louise Boutin)
89
Marcel Cabelier ‘Vieilles Vignes’ Chardonnay 2014
AOP Côtes du Jura $19.95 (485839) 12.0% alcohol
This was sourced from minimum 25-year-old vines in one of the smallest French wine regions. Ripe pear, vanilla, roasted hazelnut and marzipan abound on the nose leading to an expectation of full richness on the palate. It’s surprisingly crisp and tart with flavours of orchard fruit, vanilla and nutty notes turning to tangy white grapefruit and nice almond bitterness in the finish and aftertaste. Medium-light-bodied with a bite, it does wonders as an appetizer with salted roasted nuts. (Louise Boutin)
91
Saint-Roch Vieilles Vignes Côtes du Roussillon 2017
AOP Côtes du Roussillon $16.95 (175232) 13.0% alcohol
Heads-up; this blend of 80% grenache blanc, 20% roussane has an irresistible bouquet—fresh fig, melon, star-fruit, freesia flower with a briny mineral note in the background. Hand-harvested fruit, cold maceration and 100% stainless steel fermentation all aiming at preserving the fruit freshness is clearly achieved on the palate; it’s a feast of ripe pineapple, honeydew melon, pink grapefruit and tangerine flavours . The medley of citrus flavours trail in the long finish along with chalky minerality and almond notes. This is a hit with grilled-white fish dressed-up with melon salsa. (Louise Boutin)
90
Thierry Delaunay Touraine Sauvignon Blanc 2017
DOP Touraine $16.95 (391847) 12.5% alcohol
Tart citrus aromas meld with pineapple, mango and a faint floral note on the nose of this exceptional-priced Loire Valley white. Dry, medium-light bodied and well balanced, lemon-lime flavours streak across the palate while a flinty mineral note extends into the medium-long, fresh-tasting finish. Enjoy as an aperitif or with pan-seared trout. (Lisa Isabelle)
France: Red Wine
• The following 2015 Château Pey La Tour ‘Réserve du Château’ was selected by LCBO Vintages as a ‘Wine of the Month’.
90
Château Pey La Tour ‘Réserve du Château’ 2015
AOC Bordeaux Supérieur $21.95 (349308) 15.0% alcohol
This beautiful deep-ruby shaded blend—88% merlot, 10% cabernet sauvignon, 2% petit verdot from the Dourthe vineyards, located half-way between Bordeaux and Saint-Émilion, presents a rich nose—dark ripe fruit, violet, cherry pie filling and baking spice. This is full-bodied with chewy tannin and quite warm on the tongue revealing flavours of ripe black cherry, cassis, dark chocolate and spicy clove. This robust red has great acidity and will come along beautifully with an additional three to five years of cellaring. Can’t wait, aerate/decant three hours and pour with grilled-rare beef. (Louise Boutin)
90
J-L Chave ‘Sélection Mon Coeur’ Côtes-du-Rhône 2016
AOC Côtes-du-Rhône $22.95 (995548) 14.5% alcohol
This affordable red blend is 60% syrah and 40% grenache from top Rhône producer Jean-Louis Chave whose family has been involved in winemaking since 1481. This medium-full-bodied crowd pleaser exudes fresh blackberry compote aromas, joined with black plum and light, baking spice notes. The freshness of berry flavours continue on the palate along with a bite of cinnamon bundled in mellow tannin. The alcohol here is expertly integrated leaving front stage to a dry, fruity and spicy, persistent finish. Pour with peppercorn-studded, grilled-striploin. (Louise Boutin)
90
Château Mont-Redon Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2015
AOC Châteauneuf-du-Pape $49.95 (959627) 14.5% alcohol
This is a hand-harvested complex blend of southern-Rhône varietals—grenache, syrah, mourvèdre, cinsault, counoise, muscardin and vaccarèse from fourth-generation winemakers. It shows a lovely rich nose of black cherry, black plum, dry herb, forest floor and fennel seeds. Aromas are replayed on the palate in a velvety cocktail of flavours. The chewy tannins and sustained acidity show-up mid- palate to frame a warm, dry, cherry, savoury and spicy finish. This medium-full bodied red can be enjoyed now with a two-hour aeration/decant before service and will reach its apogee between 2020 and 2025. (Louise Boutin)
91
Croix Canon Grand Cru Saint-Émilion 2012
AOC Saint-Émilion Grand Cru $66.95 (671289) 14.0% alcohol
This superb blend—75% merlot and 25% cabernet franc is 1er Grand Cru Classé. It’s Château Canon’s second label. The deep-ruby robe greats the nose with evolved aromas—potpourri, black fruit, cooked wild mushrooms, vanilla, dry tobacco and sweet smoke. It’s just as generous on the palate with dry cherry, cassis, raisin, baking spice, dark chocolate and mineral notes persisting through the lengthy finish. Aged 18 months in French oak barrels, a small portion new, this grand, full-bodied Bordeaux is gorged with richness and finesse. Aerate/decant one to two hours and pair with rare prime rib au jus. (Louise Boutin)
92
Château Puygueraud 2016
AOC Côtes de Bordeaux-Francs $30.95 (550277) 14.5% alcohol
This value-packed attractive medium-purple blend— 80% merlot, 15% cabernet franc, 5% malbec—has an exquisite nose of ripe dark cherry, blueberry, raspberry, fresh rose, sweet smoke, clove and a hint of espresso. A cashmere-textured. dense flow of juicy cherry, black plum, cassis, mocha and baking spice caress the palate followed with assertive, fine-grained tannin and a good dose of tang keeping the taste buds alert throughout the dry, fruity and spicy, endless finish. This full-bodied beauty, matured in large oak barriques for 12 to16 months, has several years of cellaring potential and is quite delightful now. This is a great companion to Greek moussaka or tourtière. (Louise Boutin)
88
Château Francs Magnus 2016
AOC Bordeaux Supérieur $16.95 (550269) 14.0% alcohol
This well-priced medium-full bodied blend of 95% merlot and 5% cabernet franc showcases fresh aromas of crushed berries, red plum, rose petal, maraschino cherry and a whiff of cedar. It flows on the palate with a bowlful of fruit flavours—ripe blackberry, cassis, tart raspberry and red cherry framed in chewy tannin trailing into the dry, fruity and spicy finish. Aerate-decant one hour and pour with spaghetti and meatballs on a week night. (Louise Boutin)
88
Monte del Frá ‘Lena Di Mezzo’ Valpolicella Ripasso Classico Superiore 2015
DOC Valpolicella Ripasso $22.95 (165662) 14.0% alcohol
Upon completion of the first fermentation, this blend of corvina, corvinone, rondinella was re-fermented with the grape skins of Amarone and aged 18 months in French oak before bottling. The nose offers a tempting array of aromas—cherry pie, plum jam, chocolate and coffee. Dry, medium-full bodied, the smooth and creamy texture is balanced with flavours of tart red cherry, dark plum, herbs and spice lasting into the lengthy, dry, mouth-watering finish. Serve this crunchy red with chicken cacciatore. (Lisa Isabelle)
94
Château L’Espérance 2010
AOC Blaye-Côtes de Bordeaux $20.95 (487868) 14.0% alcohol
Spoiler alert for right bank Bordeaux lovers; this is a steal and stocks are limited. A deep-garnet bowl combined with an evolved nose—dry cherry, stewed prune, roasted nuts, dark chocolate and sweet smoke, unveil a few years of ageing. The palate’s treated to an ample gusher of dark ripe fruit led by juicy black cherry and cassis, meeting evolved yet noticeable fine-grained tannin offering a suggestion of dark chocolate-covered Bing cherry in the long tasty finish. This full-bodied blend— 95% merlot and 5% cabernet sauvignon from an exceptional vintage is a delight now and can cellar for another 5 years. Aerate/decant one hour and pour alongside beef pot roast with root vegetables. (Louise Boutin)
88
J.M. Raffault ‘Les Picasses’ Chinon 2015
AOC Chinon $20.95 (367011) 13.0% alcohol
This 100% cabernet franc has a discrete nose until a vigorous swirl discloses classic varietal aromas—tart cherry, red and green bell pepper and black peppercorn. This is medium-bodied with purity of fruit from start to finish, great acidity, still evolving tannin and piquant finish. It has room to further evolve either with two hours of aeration/decant or a couple more years of cellaring. Stuffed bell-pepper is a very tempting pairing. (Louise Boutin)
91
Les Hauts de Ventraben Cairanne 2015
AOP Cairanne $17.95 (561340) 14.0% alcohol
Located in the middle of the Rhône valley, this appellation requires a minimum of 50% grenache in its blends. This is 60% grenache, 20% syrah and 20% mourvèdre. It has a delightful nose of ripe blackberry, dark cherry, licorice, oregano and graphite aromas. The superb round and fresh mouthfeel enhances the fruity flavours—ripe berries, dark plum and pomegranate—that dominate the palate until grippy tannin and medium-plus acidity show up, adding desired structure and character to the mix. Medium-full bodied with a plum and licorice comforting warm finish, it is an exceptional buy. Aerate one hour and pour with Ratatouille Tart (Louise Boutin)
89
Domaine de Verquière ‘Plan de Dieu’ 2015
AOC Côtes-du-Rhône-Village $21.95 (537936) 14.0% alcohol
This ruby-shaded, organic southern-Rhône blend — 80% grenache and 20% syrah from a 4th generation winemakers family—shows maturation signs with garnet hues on the rim. The attractive nose of black plum, black cherry, licorice, baking spice and earthy notes introduces a silky fresh wash of juicy blackberry, cassis, tart red plum moving towards dry cherry flavours plus a medley of clove and charred herb persisting in the finish and aftertaste. This is medium-full bodied with good structure and acidity. Give this a go with a charcuterie and hard cheese board. (Louise Boutin)
89
Château de Fauzan Minervois 2016
AOP Minervois $15.95 (560771) 14.5% alcohol
This value-packed blend from the Languedoc-Roussillon—70% syrah, 20% grenache and 10% carignan—shouts freshness with its aromas of black plum compote, raspberry, blueberry, crushed blackberry and rosemary note. Über silky on the first sip with more berry flavours and tangy dry cranberry, it’s joined with chewy tannin and tartness leading a warm, fruit-forward finish with a kick of fresh thyme in the aftertaste. This is delicious with sun-dried tomato and black olive pizza. Aerate/decant one hour. (Louise Boutin)
89
Gérard Bertrand Syrah/Grenache 2015
AOP Languedoc $16.95 (413237) 14.0% alcohol
Gerard Bertrand continues to impress with his extremely giving, yet affordable, wine. This blend, mostly syrah and about one-third, grenache has a lovely nose—ripe black fruit, mild oak, gingerbread, violet and rose aromas abound. A generous wash of juicy blackberry, ripe cassis and cinnamon flavours treats the palate followed with a piquant peppery note defining the fruity-spicy, medium-long finish. This medium-full bodied red has good structure and plenty of acidity and is a good companion to grilled-rare lamb chops. (Louise Boutin)
France: Rosé Wine
88
Carte Noire Rosé 2017
AOP Côtes de Provence $18.95 (319384) 13.5% alcohol
This blend of 35% cinsault, 30% grenache, 20% mourvèdre and 15% syrah is a very pale pinky/peach colour and has a refreshingly floral nose reminiscent of a summer meadow. It’s cleansing on the palate with a good tang and flavours of strawberry. Although it’s a dry wine, there’s a perception of sweetness on the finish. A nice wine to serve with autumn or winter hors d'oeuvres, to remind you of summer. (Dave Isaacs)
Italy: White Wine
91
Terranera Greco 2017
IGT Campania $17.95 (562546) 12.5% alcohol
Sourced from the greco grape variety—named greco di tufo in Campania—grape vines are thought to have been brought from Greece some 2500 years ago. Aromas of citrus-peel marmalade and floral notes waft easily from this balanced and bountiful gem. Mandarin orange and lemon-lime cordial envelop the palate infusing the clean, crisp and lip-smacking finish. Pour on its own as a pre-dinner aperitif or with all manner of fish and seafood. (Vic Harradine)
Italy: Red Wine
90
Terra D’Aligi ‘Tatone’ Montepulciano D’Abruzzo 2013
DOC Montepulciano D’Abruzzo $15.95 (994616) 14.0% alcohol
The price-quality ratio here skews well in your favour, pick up a few. Rich aromas of black currant and floral notes introduce a gusher of juicy fruit enveloping the palate with luscious flavours of briary berry, black currant and ripe mulberry decorated with spice and excellent tang. It’s medium-plus bodied with über-smooth texture and a supple tannin underpinning. Aerate/decant three hours and pour with pasta puttanesca. (Vic Harradine)
90
Vite Colte ‘Essenze Del Comune Di Serralunga D’Alba’ Barolo 2011
DOCG Barolo $46.95 (576801) 14.0% alcohol
The rusty-orange hue speaks to the thin-skinned nebbiolo grape and this Barolo’s maturity, although just coming into drinkability. Aromas of floral notes, mixed spice, mushroom and berry fruit provide segue to a delightful wash of bramble berry, blueberry and black plum compote interwoven with excellent acidity, balance and a lingering dry and lip-smacking good finish. Better cellared two or three more years, but accessible now after a three-hour aeration/decant and quite good now when served with well-seasoned, grilled or roast beef. (Vic Harradine)
90
Lirica Primitivo Di Manduria 2015
DOP Puglia $17.95 (326710) 14.0% alcohol
Alluring aromas of red licorice, black currant and tobacco leaf announce a delightful, palate-enveloping stream of bramble berry, blueberry and black plum compote enhanced with piquant spice and hints of black licorice interwoven with excellent acidity, deft balance and lingering finish. This is medium-plus weight, nicely textured and raring to go; serve now alongside meat-laden pizza or beef fajitas. (Vic Harradine)
89
Castello Di Gabbiano ‘Riserva’ Chianti Classico 2014
DOCG Chianti Classico $22.95 (216309) 13.5% alcohol
Mixed berry fruit, spice box and floral note aromas herald sweet-infused palate flavours of red cherry and black currant along with excellent, red currant acidity on the back palate and finish. This is medium weight with good mouthfeel and fine-grained tannin adding structure and complexity. Aerate/decant for two hours before service. (Vic Harradine)
90
Clement VII ‘Gran Selezione’ Chianti Classico 2012
DOCG Chianti Classico $34.95 (573493) 14.0% alcohol
Hi-toned aromas of floral notes, exotic spice and mixed, field berry fruit abound on the nose of this medium-full bodied red. A rush of tang-infused, crunchy pie cherry and red currant race over the palate riding a laser-like line of bracing acidity. These replay on the finish and aftertaste along with still-evolving tannin. This needs time in the cellar—pop corks 2021. (Vic Harradine)
93
Tenuta San Guido ‘Le Difese’ 2016
IGT Toscana $34.95 (147876) 13.5% alcohol
This has superlative purity of fruit, structure, depth and balance from cork pop to last drop. My highest compliment; this required discipline to spit. Aromas of peppery spice and dark berry fruit dominate the nose on this medium-bodied, cabernet sauvignon / sangiovese red blend. An über-smooth, polished wash of rich, ripe, black fruit—plum, currant and Bing cherry—laced with dark bittersweet chocolate captures the palate with replays on the long finish. Enhance imbibing pleasure with a two-hour aeration/decant. (Vic Harradine)
91
Villa Cerna Primocolle Chianti Classico 2015
DOCG Chianti Classico $19.95 (573501) 14.5% alcohol
Lifted aromas of steely minerality, mixed berry fruit and piquant spice billow from this balanced-on-a-pin, 95% sangiovese/5% colorino blend. It’s medium bodied and well textured with a tang-infused flow of ripe red fruit—currant and cherry—adorned with sweet-tinged, dark plum and black briary berry. It finishes long and luxurious, balanced, charming and good value. Pour with chicken cacciatore. (Vic Harradine)
90
Biscardo Neropasso 2016
IGT Rosso del Veronese $18.95 (582882) 13.5% alcohol
Some grapes were dried prior to pressing. After fermentation and settling some wine was aged in stainless tanks with the balance in large oak casks before blending and bottling. Aromas of berry fruit and mixed spice precede a sweet, luscious palate-coating river of black plum compote, kirsch liqueur and cherry clafoutie. It’s medium-full bodied with good mouthfeel and a lingering finish and aftertaste replete with palate replays. Pour alongside grilled pork back ribs mopped with spicy barbecue sauce or beef fajitas. (Vic Harradine)
94
Guerrieri Rizzardi ‘3E Cru’ Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2012
DOCG Amarone della Valpolicella Classico $53.95 (568691) 16.0% alcohol
This raises the bar for the vast majority of Amarone. A fabulous nose of dark berry fruit, cedar and tarry licorice open this exemplary beauty. It’s a blend of 80% corvina/10% rondinella, 10% barbera. This blankets the palate with viscous, creamy mouthfuls of black currant and black raspberry adorned with dark bittersweet chocolate and baking spices. The finish is creamy smooth and fruit filled with good acidity for balance. Pour with aged hard cheese like parmigiana reggiano or hearty stew like osso buco. (Vic Harradine)
90
Il Sestante Amarone della Valpolicella 2013
DOCG Amarone della Valpolicella $48.95 (568733) 15.0% alcohol
This is all smoke, tar and espresso roast aromas on the nose. It spreads over the palate with waves of sweet black berry jelly, ripe black plum and notions of mocha. Medium-plus bodied with good texture, it’s deftly balanced with a lengthy, fruit-infused, finish. Pour with grilled rack of lamb or braised beef. (Vic Harradine)
Portugal: Red Wine
88
Casa Santos Lima ‘Confidencial - Reserva’ 2014
Vinho Regional Lisboa $13.95 (452789) 13.5% alcohol
Lifted aromas of berry fruit, spice and floral notes introduce a rich, sweet-tinged wash of ripe juicy cherry, mulberry and black currant intertwined with red licorice and supple tannin. It’s medium bodied with good texture and lengthy finish. It pours well with burgers, meat-laden, red pizza or back ribs mopped with spicy barbecue sauce. (Vic Harradine)
87
Quinta Do Quetzal Guadalupe ‘Winemaker’s Selection’ Red 2015
Vinho Regional Alentejano $16.95 (408138) 14.5% alcohol
This is a red blend of 50% syrah, 30% alicante bouschet and 20% cabernet sauvignon maturing 12 months in pre-loved, French oak barrels. Oaky notes, cassis and wood smoke aromas are precursor to a spirited wash of crunchy red fruit—pie cherry, currant and passionfruit—framed by racy tang and acidity and underpinned by soft and agreeable ripe tannin. Aerate/decant this for a couple of hours to soften before serving. (Vic Harradine)
Spain: Red Wine
90
Balbás ‘Reserva’ 2006
DO Ribera del Duero $23.95 (85183) 15.0% alcohol
The perfumed nose gives up aromas of dark berry fruit, leather and spice. The well-defined palate flavours of black currant, cherry and cassis flow creamy smooth while decorated with tang, soft tannin and balanced on a pin. Twelve years on, this still has lively fresh flavour and excellent acidity. Drink in the short term. (Vic Harradine)
92
Senorio de Barahonda ‘Campo Arriba’ Monastrell/Syrah/Tintorera 2014
DO Yecla $16.95 (511519) 14.5% alcohol
Dark purple/black, almost opaque, this hedonistic red blend dishes up aromas of mixed spice and chalky mineral notes before releasing a flavourful mouthful of blue and black fruit—dark cherry, blueberry and bramble berry jam—intertwined with piquant spice, vanilla and mixed herbs, This is medium-plus weight with good texture and lingering, ripe, sweet aftertaste. It’s approachable now and particularly crowd-friendly. (Vic Harradine)
92
Vinessens ‘Sein’ 2011
DO Alicante $17.95 (391896) 15.0% alcohol
A 60% mourvèdre/40% syrah red blend, fruit was hand harvested and hand sorted before fermentation and malolactic conversion then aged 12 months in French and American oak barrel by this artisan, family-owned winery. Black cherry, baking spice and earthy notes are precursor to a surge of black cherry, black currant and kirsch liqueur. It’s medium weight with good texture and supple tannin frame. Aerate/decant two hours before serving—exceptional value here. (Vic Harradine)
Upstream in Winecurrent
90
Provolo ‘Tenuta Ca’Nove’ Valpolicella Ripasso Superiore 2014
DOC Valpolicella Ripasso, Italy $17.95 14.0% alcohol
Alluring aromas of red and dark cherry/berry fruit mingle with cedar and floral notes. A delectable river of racy tang and ripe juicy fruit envelop the palate with red cherry and black currant interwoven with notions of mixed spice and dark mulberry. It’s nicely balanced, medium weight with good texture while the lingering, rich, dry finish is lip-smacking good. Pour with osso buco or chicken cacciatore. (Vic Harradine)
New in Vintages
• The following 2013 Palazzo Brunello di Montalcino matured 30 months in oak casks plus 12 months in seasoned oak tonneaux and finally eight to ten months in bottle before release
94
Palazzo Brunello di Montalcino 2013
DOCG Brunello di Montalcino, Italy $69.95 (660746) 14.5% alcohol
Only produced in the best years, this vendemmia 2013 is 100% sangiovese grosso and transports you directly to Tuscany with its expressive aromas of dry cherry, forest floor, leather, cinnamon and star anise. A silky-textured stream of juicy red cherry and pomegranate followed with dry cherry and a suggestion of unsweetened plum pudding flavour enchants the palate. This first-class Brunello is medium-full bodied with perfectly integrated alcohol, extra-fine, yet well-defined, tannin shaping the superb, long, heart-warming finish that keeps evolving on stewed prune and tobacco notes. Aerate/decant one hour and pour now to 2025 with rich, slowly-braised, beef short-ribs (Louise Boutin)
90
Famiglia Zingarelli ‘Rocca delle Macie’ Chianti Classico Riserva 2015
DOCG Chianti Classico, Italy $24.95 (930966) 14.0% alcohol
This opens with aromas of piquant spice, red cherry/berry fruit and oaky notes. It’s a lively red blend of 90% sangiovese, 5% cabernet sauvignon and 5% merlot dishing up a refreshing stream of palate-bathing fruit—black currant, ripe red cherry and hints of passionfruit—interwoven with spice box and savoury herbs. It’s medium-plus bodied and smooth as silk on the palate as it transitions to replays on the crisp, dry, lengthy finish. Pour with pasta puttanesca or veal cacciatore. (Vic Harradine)
92
Closerie des Alisiers Petit Chablis 2016
AOC Petit Chablis, France $25.95 (557769) 12.0% alcohol
A pretty nose of Bartlett pear, yellow apple, grapefruit, white flower and slate minerality paves the way to a flow of ripe pear, tangy citrus and mineral flavours deliciously coating the palate. This is medium-bodied, 100% stainless-steel fermented and aged 12 months before bottling. It’s deftly balanced and offers a persistent fruity and mineral, delightfully elegant finish. Pour with your favourite seafood dish or a Dijon mustard pork-loin. (Louise Boutin)
New in Ontario Wineries
• The following wines, and those from the previous newsletter now archived on the www.winecurrent.com site from Tawse Winery, can be purchased by the case for home, office or restaurant delivery online at Tawse Winery, by Email This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. by phone +1 905 562 9500 or for pick up by the bottle or case directly at the winery 3955 Cherry Ave, Vineland ON. Here’s a map.
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Redstone ‘Limestone Vineyard’ Sauvignon Blanc 2017
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $23.95 14.0% alcohol
In a word… delicious. This is farmed organically and biodynamically. Aromas of leafy herbs, minerality and orchard fruit provide segue to a value-packed, medium-bodied, creamy-textured flow of palate flavours—white peach, Granny Smith apple and green pineapple riding a seam of acidity and mineral notes. There’s complexity and depth, deft balance and it’s simply charming and quite satisfying—it was also difficult to spit. Pour on its own or with goat cheese crumbled over olive-oiled arugula. Kudos to winemaker Rene Van Ede and his team. (Vic Harradine)
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Redstone ‘Redfoot Vineyard’ Viognier 2017
VQA Lincoln Lakeshore $19.95 12.0% alcohol
Delightful honeysuckle, Mandarin and baking spice aromas abound. It coats the palate with gusto—a medium-plus bodied, oily textured wash of white peach, blood orange and grapefruit pith dominate the palate persisting through the mildly tart finish and aftertaste. Serve lightly chilled by taking out of the cooler 20 minutes before serving alongside chicken tagine including dried apricots and cubed rutabaga. This is very good value. (Vic Harradine)
• The following 2014 Tawse ‘Laundry Vineyard’ Blanc de Noirs Sparkling Wine was fashioned in the traditional method with 100% Pinot Noir fruit from a sustainably farmed, single-vineyard in the sub-appellation of Lincoln Lakeshore and spent 36 months on its secondary-fermentation lees.
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Tawse ‘Laundry Vineyard’ Blanc de Noirs Sparkling Wine 2014
VQA Lincoln Lakeshore $29.95 12.0% alcohol
A delightfully alluring nose of strawberry, spice and notions of leesy notes set the stage for a racy, tang-infused, laser-like stream of acidity and steely minerality balanced by ripe plum and soft Meyer lemon on the back palate and aftertaste. This really shines when sipped on its own or poured with freshly shucked, briny oysters under a few dots of hot sauce and a squeeze of fresh lemon. (Vic Harradine)
• The following 2014 Tawse ‘Estate Bottled – pét-nat’ is the first ‘Pétillant Naturel’ produced by Tawse. It’s a blend of organic and biodynamic estate chardonnay fruit that underwent fermentation in the bottle, but was not disgorged—expelling expired yeast cells aka lees—so remains on its lees in the bottle you purchase and is unfiltered—an ancient method for making sparkling wine and it pours slightly cloudy as a result. It’s closed with a crown cap for über-easy access—a helpful, very-modern method.
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Tawse ‘Estate Bottled – pét-nat’ 2014
VQA Niagara Peninsula $24.95 13.0% alcohol
Delicate aromas of honey, floral and mineral notes introduce spritzy mouthfuls of racy lemon-lime, biscuit, pineapple and Granny Smith apple. It bathes the palate with clean, crisp and refreshing waves of flavour, tang, steely minerality, acidity, balance and pizzazz. It finishes with more of the same and it’s deliriously, lip-smacking good. Pour on its own as an aperitif or welcoming wine or with fish tacos, sushi or crab cakes. (Vic Harradine)
• The following 2017 Tawse ‘Growers Blend’ Sauvignon Blanc was fashioned from select parcels of Niagara Peninsula sauvignon blanc fruit then fermented and settled in stainless steel.
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Tawse ‘Growers Blend’ Sauvignon Blanc 2017
VQA Niagara Peninsula $25.95 12.5% alcohol
Flinty minerality, green apple and pear aromas introduce a tang-laden stream of palate-bathing flavours with piquant spice, tangy, white grapefruit acidity and plenty of pizzazz. It streaks across the palate, mid-weight and nicely textured with oodles of nerve and verve. It finishes with more of the same—racy, crisp and refreshing. Pour alongside sushi, prawn ceviche or cod poached in lemon and white wine. (Vic Harradine)
• Fruit for the following 2015 Tawse ‘South Bay Vineyard’ Chardonnay was sourced from South Bay Vineyard in Prince Edward County and was aged 12 months in French oak.
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Tawse ‘South Bay Vineyard’ Chardonnay 2015
VQA Prince Edward County $34.95 12.5% alcohol
Baking spice, sweet vanilla and oaky notes coalesce on the nose of this absolutely gorgeous chardonnay. Palate flavours of ginger and baked apple settle on the palate interwoven with lemon curd and blood orange and they infuse the finish with gusto, deft balance, depth and complexity along with a lip-smacking aftertaste layering on saline, flinty mineral notes. This is delectable now and will improve over the short-medium term. The price-quality balance tips wildly in your favour. (Vic Harradine)
• The organic and biodynamic fruit for the following 2013 Tawse ‘David’s Block’ Merlot was hand-harvested, fermented then matured 18 months in French oak barrels. Most unfortunately, the two killing winters that followed this harvest wiped out the vines; this is the final bottling of this perennial favourite.
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Tawse ‘David’s Block’ Merlot 2013
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $49.95 13.5% alcohol
A lovely garnet hue in the glass, aromas of exotic spice, grilled savory herbs and red and black berry fruit are accessible. It blankets the palate with a lively wash of crunchy, sour cherry and piquant-spiced passionfruit flavour interwoven with leafy herbs and lip-smacking tang. It’s medium-plus bodied with good mouthfeel and drying tannin on the medium-length finish and aftertaste. Aerate/decant a couple of hours or cellar two more years pouring with a tomato-based sauce and pasta or meat lasagna. (Vic Harradine)
New in Private Order
• Order the following wines by the case for home, restaurant or office delivery in Ontario from VinoLuna wine agency. Contact via VinoLuna website, by Email at This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. or, in the GTA phone 416 587-6691.
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Maison Bertrand Ravache - Aligança Perlé Gaillac Blanc 2017
AOP Gaillac, France $13.95 13.5% alcohol
This blend—60% mauzac, 25% loin de l’oeil, 15% sauvignon blanc—gives up delicate aromas of floral notes and green tea. It bathes the palate with medium-bodied, generously textured river of white nectarine, pear and lemongrass. These are replayed on the finish along with a delightful line of tangy mouth-watering citrus. Pour on its own as an aperitif or serve with lighter-styled appetizers. (Vic Harradine)
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Maison Bertrand Ravache - Château Armens Saint-Êmilion Grand Cru 2015
AOC Saint-Êmilion Grand Cru $49.95 14.0% alcohol
Savory herbs, incense and mixed field berry fruit abound on the nose of this red blend—80% merlot, 17% cabernet franc, 3% cabernet sauvignon. It blankets the palate with rich dark fruit—cherry, currant and blueberry—interlaced with wisps of earthy notes and delightful black plum compote. This is medium-plus bodied with silky-smooth texture and a balanced and beautiful finish and aftertaste, all enhanced by a two-hour aeration/decant and poured with a prime cut of grilled or roasted beef. (Vic Harradine)
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Maison Bertrand Ravache - LÉO by Léo Saint-Êmilion Grand Cru 2015
AOC Saint-Êmilion Grand Cru $32.95 13.5% alcohol
A 70% merlot/15% cabernet franc/15% cabernet sauvignon red blend, this offers delicate aromas of spice box, red berry fruit and notions of cedar. A lively wash of tangy red cherry and blueberry surge over the palate soon joined by sweet-infused raspberry flavour persisting through the dry, mouth-watering finish. This is medium bodied with textured mouthfeel and plenty of pizzazz. Aerate/decant a couple of hours pouring with grilled rack of lamb. (Vic Harradine)
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Maison Bertrand Ravache - Les Hauts de la Gaffeliére Bordeaux Supérieur 2016
AOC Bordeaux Supérieur, France $19.95 14.0% alcohol
This red blend—70% merlot, 15% cabernet franc, 15% cabernet sauvignon—gives up aromas of dried currant, savory herbs and charred toast. A delightful stream of creamy-smooth, sweet-tinged fruit—bramble berry and black currant—envelop the palate framed by excellent acidity and a soft, ripe tannin underpinning. This is balanced on a pin with good weight, purity of fruit and very good value. Sip on its own or pour with roast chicken, turkey or duck. (Vic Harradine)
• The following 2015 Fattoria La Torre ‘Rosso delle Chiacchere is a red blend of 45% cabernet sauvignon/35% merlot/20% sangiovese matured 24 months in large and small French oak barrels and a further 12 months in bottle before release.
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Fattoria La Torre ‘Rosso delle Chiacchere 2015
IGT Toscana, Italy $16.95 14.0% alcohol
Red and black berry fruit, sprigs of grilled savory herbs and mixed spice provide segue to a tang-laced river of sour cherry, red currant and medicinal notes racing across the palate with great élan and soft tannin structure. It’s medium-bodied with good texture and racy, dry, tang-infused finish and aftertaste. Pour alongside pasta in a tomato-based sauce or chicken cacciatore. (Vic Harradine)
Cheers, Lisa, Louise, Dave, Vic