November 4, 2018 Newsletter
LCBO Hours for Remembrance Day
All LCBO retail stores will open at 12 noon on Sunday, November 11, 2018 and close at their regular hours—except for stores in Ottawa—where they will open later at 12:30 pm. Agency stores in rural areas will open and close at their regular hours on this day – always best to phone first. The Head Office in Toronto will be closed Monday, November 12, 2018 while retail and agency stores are slated to be open their regular Monday hours.
Newsletter Highlights include:
- Exceptional-value wine – 9, from a total of 55 wines in this newsletter that are available November 10 at LCBO retail, meet strict quality-price guidelines. Eight are found in the following Vintages Release with one found after the Vintages release wines. The wines range from $10.95 to $18.95 and are found throughout the newsletter easily identified via the exceptional-value checkmark above. Strict guidelines? Click here.
- 95 and over – only one wine earned 95 points and over: 2015 Shafer ‘Red Shoulder Ranch’ Chardonnay earned 96 points @ $84.95 found under California: White Wine.
- Louise Loves – 2017 Inniskillin Riesling Icewine (375 mL) earned 91 points at $79.95 found under Icewine; 2017 Lakeview Cellars Cabernet Franc Icewine (200 mL) earned 92 points at $29.95 found under Icewine and 2016 La Bastide Saint-Dominique Châteauneuf- du-Pape earned 93 points at $49.95 found under France: Red Wine; and all her exceptional-value wines.
- Lisa Likes – 2009 Montecillo Gran Reserva earned 90 points @ $29.95; 2010 Ontañón Reserva earned 91 points @ $25.95 and 2005 R. López de Heredia ‘Viña Tondonia’ Reserva 2005 earned 94 points @ $49.95 with all found under Spain: Red Wine; and all her exceptional-value wines.
- Vic Picks – 2016 Cave Spring Cellars ‘Indian Summer’ Riesling earned 93 points @ $24.95 (375 mL) found under Dessert Wine; 2013 Tawse ‘Laundry Vineyard’ Cabernet Franc earned 91 points @ $34.95 found under Ontario: Red Wine; 2015 Pirramimma Petit Verdot earned 93 points @ $28.95 found under Australia: Red Wine; and all his exceptional-value wines.
Identify the LCBO store nearest you with stock of any wine with an LCBO product number by clicking on the number shown in brackets in wine reviews then clicking on ‘Select Stores’ and entering your postal code—the number of bottles available in stores near you is displayed as well as online—or by clicking ‘Check all stores’ where you’ll see stock available in all LCBO stores. For Vintages Release wines, stock should be displayed the Friday before a Saturday release, updated every 24 hours, some stores post earlier. LCBO Portfolio wines (wine not in Vintages section) should always closely reflect stock in stores, updated every 24 hours. However, it’s always best to phone the store before making a trip.
November 10, 2018 Vintages Release
Fortified Wine: Sherry
89
Bodegas Hidalgo ‘La Gitana’ Manzanilla
DO Jerez y Manzanilla-Sanlúcar de Barrameda, Spain $16.95 500 mL (745448) 15.0% alcohol
The expressive nose on this fully-textured Sherry is pure 'rancio', a term almost defying description, but think of dried, spicy fruit, over-ripe cantaloupe and burnt sugar—once experienced, never to be forgotten. This is dry with wonderful mouth feel and offers salty, zesty flavours of nuts, figs and dried fruit. The finish is balanced, warm and lengthy. Serve chilled with ceviche or sea food, especially briny shrimp. (Vic Harradine)
Dessert Wine
• The following 2016 Cave Spring Cellars ‘Indian Summer’ Riesling was sourced from 100% hand-picked riesling from select vineyards on the southern shore of Lake Ontario in the VQA sub-appellation of Lincoln Lakeshore. The partially frozen fruit, as a result of the initial deep frost in 2016, had been purposefully left on the vine to ripen and raisin. It was pressed in this semi-frozen state producing a succulent nectar of the gods. Serve well chilled with a vast variety of culinary dishes.
93
Cave Spring Cellars ‘Indian Summer’ Riesling 2016
VQA Niagara Peninsula $24.95 375 mL (415901) 12.5% alcohol
This blossoms from the glass with honeyed apricot, lemony citrus notes, piquant spice and wisps of peach pie aromas. It blankets the palate with creamy smooth, viscous mouthfuls of candied orange, grilled pineapple, citrus peel marmalade and mango tart. It finishes clean and refreshing with the inherent acidity in riesling leaving you looking very much forward to each sip, it’s definitely not cloying. A match made in heaven with foie gras or crème brûlée, it’s divine when poured with apple pie. (Vic Harradine)
89
De Bortoli ‘Noble One’ Botrytis Semillon 2016
New South Wales, Australia $29.95 375ml (917252) 10.5% alcohol
This family of European immigrants made Australia their home 90 years ago and have been making wine ever since. This noble rot semillon has become the reference in Australian dessert wine for over three decades. Aged 12 months in French oak barriques, it displays complex aromas —apricot, honey, vanilla and saffron. This seductive potion coats the palate with delicious candied stone fruit, marmalade and almond paste flavours trailing in the long tangy-sweet finish. This can cellar for 15-20 years but is delicious now with pan-seared foie gras or fine cheeses, dry apricots and roasted nuts. (Louise Boutin)
Icewine
91
Inniskillin Riesling Icewine 2017
VQA Niagara Peninsula $79.95 375ml (558288) 9.2% alcohol
This is one of Inniskillin flagship wines produced for over thirty years and it never fails to impress. The varietal’s distinctive petrol notes ooze from the glass in a sweet version joined with pear confit, jasmine and mineral aromas. The palate is treated to an opulent cocktail of flavours — honeyed-poached orchard fruit, tangy marmalade and candied pineapple—perfectly balanced with zesty acidity. This is a harmonious delight from start to finish and will pair beautifully with baked-Brie cheese. (Louise Boutin)
92
Lakeview Cellars Cabernet Franc Icewine 2017
VQA Niagara Peninsula $29.95 200ml (53397) 11.0% alcohol
Forget about your typical, gold-shaded icewine. This one has a vibrant raspberry glow and a very singular nose —ripe field strawberry, freshly cracked black pepper and a hint of green bell pepper. It flows on the palate in a luscious nectar bursting with ripened sweet strawberry and maraschino cherry flavours lifted with balancing rhubarb tartness and piquant peppercorn notes trailing into the endlessly delicious finish. No need for dessert, sip on its own after dinner to fully appreciate the complexity of this beauty. (Louise Boutin)
93
Stratus ‘Red’ Icewine 2016
VQA Niagara Lakeshore, Niagara-on-the-Lake $39.95 200 mL (56689) 12.0% alcohol
This offers alluring aromas of sugared strawberry and maraschino cherry. On the palate it showcases a treasure trove of balanced-on-a-pin, gorgeous flavour with cherry clafoutie and strawberry tart deftly juxtaposed with tangy red currant and sugared red grapefruit. A rare treat for an icewine to be so drinkable on its own—really quite elegant—and so easily paired with fruit flan. Kudos to Stratus. (Vic Harradine)
Champagne
89
Georges Gardet ‘Cuvée Saint Flavy’ Brut Non-Vintage
AOC Champagne $42.95 (924654) 12.0% alcohol
This has an attractive nose of minerality, floral and heady citrus notes. There’s a lovely attack on the palate with a rush of white grapefruit and green apple flavours infused with spice and mineral nuances. It’s medium in weight and texture and offers a lingering finish that’s zesty and clean. There’s enough oomph for it to be paired with light appetizers and the more than fair price, as Champagne goes, allow it to be served as the welcoming wine at any upscale gathering—including a special evening for two. (Vic Harradine)
Sparkling Wine
89
Ferrari Trento Brut Non-Vintage
DOC Trento, Italy $24.95 (352153) 12.5% alcohol
Aromas of tropical fruit, floral notes and baked apple introduce a mid-weight, nicely textured profusion of bubbles riding over the palate garnished with a tapestry of flavour—leesy/baked brioche notes interweaving with apple, poached pear and lemon curd—balanced and persistent through the lip-smacking finish and aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)
Ontario: White Wine
90
Bachelder Niagara Chardonnay 2016
VQA Niagara Peninsula $24.95 (302083) 12.5% alcohol
If you gave up on chardonnay, give this one a chance. One more time, Thomas Bachelder shows his expertise with this 100% chardonnay sourced from low-yielding old vines across the Niagara Peninsula. A shy nose at first, a vigorous swirl will help reveal aromas of ripe McIntosh apple, lemon rind, buttery popcorn and rock minerality. This is bright and full of vitality on the tongue with flavours of lemon meringue pie, mild almond bitterness and a slight melted butter note persisting in the long delicious finish. Medium-bodied and fully textured, it’s ready to enjoy with a light lemony cream sauce shrimp pasta. (Louise Boutin)
90
Cave Spring Estate Chardonnay Musqué 2016
VQA Beamsville Bench $17.95 (246579) 13.5% alcohol
Crafted from a chardonnay grape clone, this aromatic 100% musqué varietal charms with its ripe fruit aromas—pineapple, peach and pear plus citrus and white blossom notes. This stainless steel fermented, medium-bodied white is round and ample on the palate showcasing mature orchard fruit flavours coated with a touch of honey and good balance of acidity resembling well-made viognier. A gorgeous wine to drink now with grilled sushi or seafood. (Louise Boutin)
90
Flat Rock Chardonnay 2016
VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara Escarpment $19.95 (286278) 13.5% alcohol
This is from two different Burgundy chardonnay clones and shows complexity on the nose and the palate. Mild oaky aromas follow beautiful orchard fruit, lactic and baking spice notes. The round mouthfeel delights the palate while layered flavours of baked apples, melted butter, vanilla and fresh nutmeg and apple pie express themselves in the lingering tasty finish. Medium bodied with just enough tang to ensure excellent balance, it’s a good partner to pork tenderloin with caramelized apples. (Louise Boutin)
91
Tawse ‘Limestone Ridge - North Block’ Riesling 2015
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $23.95 (431593) 10.0% alcohol
Alluring aromas of orchard fruit, lemon zest, Kaffir lime leaf and a hint of petrol open this well-balanced riesling. Medium bodied, with some sweetness to counterpoint the backbone of lively acidity, flavours of Granny Smith apple, pear and white grapefruit engulf the palate while a hint of honeysuckle lingers on the long, mouth-watering finish. This would pair nicely with spicy, tuna-roll sushi. (Lisa Isabelle)
Ontario: Red Wine
88
The Foreign Affair ‘Dream’ 2015
VQA Niagara Peninsula $29.95 (364380) 14.0% alcohol
This blend of 60% cabernet sauvignon, 27% cabernet franc, 11% merlot and 2% petit verdot has 15% of its fruit dried using the appassimento method and 16 months of maturation in French, American and Hungarian oak barrels. The result is robust with green bell pepper and tomato leaf aromas shielding ripe dark fruit, prune and spicy notes. Flavours of blackberry, cassis and black cherry hit the palate with a high notes of acidity mingling with soft tannin and piquant black pepper. This is full bodied with a lasting tart finish carrying spicy prune and herbaceous notes all the way to the aftertaste. Aerate/decant two hours and pour now to 2023 alongside juicy prime rib. (Louise Boutin)
89
Henry of Pelham ‘Speck Family - Reserve’ Pinot Noir 2016
VQA Short Hills Bench $34.95 (657874) 13.5% alcohol
A medium-garnet bowl and a Burgundian nose —red cherry, forest floor, gamy notes and dried, rose petal aromas—lead the parade for this classy pinot. On the palate, tart red cherry, cranberry and mushroom notes persist through the lingering dry, savory herb and slightly warm finish. This is medium-bodied with good tannin structure suggesting cellaring potential while very enjoyable now. This will pair well with your favorite stuffed Portobello recipe. (Louise Boutin)
• The following 2013 Tawse ‘Laundry Vineyard’ Cabernet Franc matured for 18 months in French Oak barrels. It’s available only in ‘Flagship’ stores—aka the larger LCBO stores.
91
Tawse ‘Laundry Vineyard’ Cabernet Franc 2013
VQA Lincoln Lakeshore $34.95 (130997) 13.5% alcohol
Graphite, earthy notes, savory herbs and black currant aromas abound. A medium-plus bodied, generously textured swath of juicy bramble berry, tang-laden pie cherry, savory herbs and mixed spice blankets the palate replaying on finish and aftertaste infused with tannin. If need be, aerate/decant a few hours pouring with well-seasoned grilled medium-rare premium beef, best to pop corks 2019 and beyond. (Vic Harradine)
California: White Wine
90
Beringer ‘Private Reserve’ Chardonnay 2016
Napa Valley $64.95 (26682) 14.9% alcohol
This was built to please wine-lovers seeking rich, luscious, voluptuous chardonnay—it’s more Rubenesque than minimalist. It opens with aromas of baking spice, toasty/oaky notes and a salad bowl of tropical fruit aromas. It coats the palate with a thick, well-textured wash of apple compote and sweet tropical fruit adorned with notions of hazelnut and exotic spice. It’s medium-plus bodied with a lengthy, delicious sweet fruit and citrus-tang finish and aftertaste. Good to go now, even better 2020. (Vic Harradine)
94
Kistler ‘Sonoma Mountain’ Chardonnay 2016
Sonoma Mountain, Sonoma County $107.95 (183921) 14.1% alcohol
If you habit these pricey neighbourhoods, you’ll be pleased with a purchase of this deftly balanced, graceful and stylish chardonnay. Captivating aromas of smoke, oak, ripe orchard fruit and exotic spice provide segue to a medium-full bodied and nicely textured river of intense palate flavours with stone fruit—peach, yellow plum and white nectarine interlaced with good, tang-laden acidity and hints of wood smoke, mineral notes and spice. This is balanced with good purity of fruit and a lingering luscious finish. (Vic Harradine)
96
Shafer ‘Red Shoulder Ranch’ Chardonnay 2015
Napa Valley/Carneros $84.95 (45583) 14.9% alcohol
Amongst a trio of California chardonnay, this garnered top spot with fabulous flavour, depth, complexity and unmatched sheer enjoyment—it was tough to spit. The nose is alluring with ginger and nutmeg intertwined with floral and citrus aromas. It captures the palate with a full-Monty flavour combination of baking spice, racy tang and ripe fruit expressed as apple pie spice, racy lemon curd and orchard fruit—white peach, Bosc pear and apple. Medium-full bodied with generous mouthfeel, replays of palate flavours persist through the luscious, long finish. (Vic Harradine)
California: Red Wine
91
Duckhorn Merlot 2015
Napa Valley $67.95 (992529) 14.5% alcohol
Aromas of dark berry fruit, sweet vanilla, baking spice and black plum abound on the nose of this mid-weight, nicely textured merlot-dominant Bordeaux blend—85% merlot/12% cabernet sauvignon/2% cabernet franc/1% petit verdot. A wash of über-ripe fruit—boysenberry jam and black plum compote—and red licorice are framed by good acidity and underpinned by soft, ripe tannin on the palate. The lengthy, balanced finish and aftertaste is quite a treat. Pour with grilled rib eye with Portobello mushrooms or roast beef tenderloin with root veggies. (Vic Harradine)
92
Galerie ‘Latro’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2014
Knights Valley, Sonoma County $74.95 (574459) 14.5% alcohol
This is rich, luscious and balanced on a pin. Grilled savory herbs, mint, charred toast and dark berry fruit aromas waft from the glass of this Sonoma cab. It engulfs the palate with a gusher of cassis and black currant fruit flavours enhanced by excellent acidity, herbal notes, espresso roast and bittersweet chocolate. This is full bodied, full flavoured and underpinned by still-evolving tannin. The finish is lengthy providing replays of mouth-watering palate flavours. Aerate/decant for three hours before serving. (Vic Harradine)
91
Silver Oak ‘Napa Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2013
Napa Valley $204.95 (936039) 14.1% alcohol
Lifted aromas of roasted herbs and cherry/berry fruit precede a medium-plus bodied, nicely textured flow of black currant, juicy black plum, mocha and black licorice enveloping the palate, infusing the finish and aftertaste with delectable flavour. This Napa cabernet showcases good balance, persistent purity of fruit, complexity and charm throughout. Aerate/decant a couple of hours before serving with medium-rare-grilled sirloin steak. (Vic Harradine)
89
Z. Alexander Brown ‘Uncaged’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2016
California $21.95 (478628) 14.0% alcohol
Dark-purple hued in the glass, aromas of espresso roast, baking spice, dark chocolate and dark cherry/berry fruit lead to a medium-full bodied, generously textured California cab. It spreads over the palate creamy smooth with flavours of cassis, kirsch liqueur and black cherry intertwined with chocolate and mixed spice. It finishes with replays along with ripe supple tannin. Aerate/decant a couple of hours before service. (Vic Harradine)
Australia: Red Wine
• The following 2016 Pirrimimma Petit Verdot is from a winery begun in 1892 by A. C. Johnston and still remains in the Johnston family today. Present owner/winemaker, Geoff Johnston, first planted experimental petit verdot vines, from which some this wine was sourced, in 1983. He now has ten acres of what many consider the best in the new world.
93
Pirramimma Petit Verdot 2015
McLaren Vale, South Australia $28.95 (986752) 14.5% alcohol
Pirrimimma on the label virtually guarantees fine, well-made wine inside. Alluring aromas of pipe tobacco, dark berry fruit and black licorice introduce a full-bodied, full-bore flavoured, brawny and bold petit verdot. A creamy-smooth gusher of dark cherry, red and black currant and bramble berry pie envelop the palate framed by lip-smacking tang and acidity. It finishes lengthy and luxurious with palate replays adorned with soft, ripe tannin. What’s not to like? (Vic Harradine)
91
The Lane Vineyard ‘Block 5’ Shiraz 2016
Adelaide Hills, South Australia $19.95 (462515) 13.5% alcohol
Almost opaque in the glass, lifted aromas of black licorice, peppery notes and ripe, bramble berry fruit waft easily from this medium-bodied, generously textured, single-vineyard shiraz. It rolls over the palate with a thick, juicy wash of delicious flavour—black currant and kirsch liqueur—decorated with savory herbs and peppery spice, This finishes in a blaze of ripe dark fruit, racy tang and acidity and a lengthy, dry, lip-smacking aftertaste. It’s good to go now and on to 2023 and would certainly be a wonderful complement to grilled rack of lamb. (Vic Harradine)
New Zealand: White Wine
92
Thornbury Sauvignon Blanc 2017
Marlborough, South Island $18.95 (734798) 13.0% alcohol
This exceptional-value, Marlborough sauvignon blanc is a fabulous example of a softer style without losing anything in terms of nervy acidity. The lively nose of racy citrus zest and savory herb aromas set the table for a smorgasbord of flavour with racy lemon-lime, grilled pineapple and notions of ruby red grapefruit on the balanced and beautiful palate. It’s medium weight with good mouthfeel and plenty of lip-smacking tang. It finishes in a blaze, crisp, clean and refreshing. Delicious sipped on its own, it will truly shine with mussels steamed in white wine. (Vic Harradine)
South Africa: Red Wine
87
Delheim Shiraz 2015
WO Stellenbosch $17.95 (959080) 14.5% alcohol
There are subdued aromas of black pepper, earthy notes and dark cherry/berry fruit on the nose. A medium-plus bodied, nicely textured flow of charred toast, grilled herbs and smoky, dark berry fruit—currant, raspberry and mulberry—bathes the palate interlaced with peppery spice and dark coffee notes. The finish is dry, balanced and mouth-watering good. It’s good to go now with South African cuisine—try a platter of grilled boerewors or simply pan-sear on a stove top burner. (Vic Harradine)
France: White Wine
91
Baron de Hoen ‘Réserve’ Pinot Gris 2016
AOC Alsace $16.95 (461657) 12.5% alcohol
With each sip as good or better than the previous, you could stock-up on this delicious offering—the price-quality balance tips wildly in your favour. Floral notes and tropical fruit aromas provide segue for a delectable, lively rush of honeyed pit fruit, grilled pineapple and soft citrus flavours bathing the palate with charm, balance and pizzazz. This pours very well on its own and also with ham, soft creamy cheese, white pizza or lighter-styled seafood appetizers. (Vic Harradine)
88
Louis Latour Marsannay Blanc 2014
AOC Marsannay $32.95 (435156) 13.0% alcohol
This 100% hand-harvested chardonnay is from the most northern appellation in the Côte de Nuit. Fermented and aged for eight to ten months in French oak with full malolactic conversion, it shows a traditional nose —oak, lees and lactic notes—along with ripe pear and apple peeking through. On the palate it’s round and ample with ripe pear, buttery toast, vanilla and citrus offering a nice medley of flavours developing into a suggestion of cardamom and an interesting saline note on the finish. Drink now with seafood vol-au-vent. (Louise Boutin)
France: Red Wine
90
Château Saint-Roch Chimères 2016
AOP Côtes du Roussillon-Villages $17.95 (119354) 15.0% alcohol
This blend from southern France — 60% grenache, 30% syrah and 10% carignan—presents an inviting nose of smoky dark fruit, kirsch liqueur, baking spice and savoury dry herbs. The seduction continues with a velvety mouthfeel cradling aromas of ripe baked plum, blackberry, dark cherry, cinnamon and a hint of liquorice extended in the medium-long, warm finish. This is full-bodied with firm yet fine tannin and a perfect dollop of acidity. Aerate/decant two hours and pour now and onto 2021 with braised lamb shanks. (Louise Boutin)
88
Château Cône-Taillasson Sabourin 2015
AOC Côtes de Bordeaux-Blaye $17.95 (624973) 14.0% alcohol
This red Bordeaux blend displays an aromatic nose—red cherry, fresh rose petal, sandalwood and freshly cracked pepper. Tart red cherry and blackberry lead the parade on the palate with a juicy wash quickly warming up with piquant peppery notes defining the medium-short finish. This is medium-full bodied with still evolving tannin and will benefit from a two- to three-hour aeration/decant before pouring now to 2023 alongside rare-grilled beef striploin. (Louise Boutin)
90
Gérard Bertrand ‘Grands Terroirs – Les Aspres’ Syrah/Mourvèdre/Grenache 2015
AOP Côtes du Roussillon $18.95 (413245) 14.0% alcohol
Aspres means arid in Catalan which is an appropriate descriptor for the Mediterranean climate in this region that borders Catalonia. Aromas of ripe dark fruit—Bing cherry, blackberry and blueberry—combine with mild baking spice, lilac and savoury herb introduce a cool wash of juicy berry flavour mingling with ripe cassis and fennel seed prolonging a fresh lengthy finish. This has excellent acidity and ripe tannin. It’s medium-bodied and extremely versatile at the table. Pair with your favourite grilled or simmered meat—definitely a crowd pleaser. (Louise Boutin)
• The following 2015 Domaine de Vervine Vacqueyras is a southern Rhône, grenache-dominant blend accompanied by syrah and mourvèdre. This is very good value and sure to please when poured with grilled back ribs slathered with spicy barbecue sauce.
91
Domaine de Vervine Vacqueyras 2015
AOP Vacqueyras, France $23.95 (494856) 14.0% alcohol
Aromas of ripe, dark cherry/berry fruit and peppery spice are precursors to a mouthful of über-ripe black plum, kirsch liqueur, savory herbs and warm peppery notes persisting through the finish and aftertaste. It’s medium-full bodied with good texture and lengthy balanced aftertaste. This pours particularly well with beef fajitas, spicy ribs, spicy wings, or grilled burgers; it has good heft and soft acidity melding with the very ripe fruit on the finish. (Vic Harradine)
• An internationally renowned consulting oenologue for two decades, Xavier Vignon, whose expertise benefited over 200 wineries in the Rhône region, embarked on a new adventure in 2002 by assembling his own wines with fruit sourced from the best parcels in Châteauneuf-du-Pape and the southern-Rhône. The 2015 Xavier Vignon ‘100%’ Côtes du Rhône featured below is an excellent example of his winemaking talent.
90
Xavier Vignon ‘100%’ Côtes du Rhône 2015
AOP Côtes du Rhône $18.95 (437079) 14.5% alcohol
This red blend—40% grenache/25% mourvèdre/15% syrah and splash of marselan and cinsault—is from a very good vintage and showcases aromas of ripe black plum, cassis, black cherry, baking spice and a suggestion of sweet smoke. A charming silky mouth-feel opens the door to delicious flavours of ripe blackberry, dry cherry, cassis, tangy raspberry and a hint of clove. This is a full-bodied red with polished tannin and perfectly integrated alcohol offering a lingering dry, berry-hearty finish. Pour alongside tourtière or other baking-spice-seasoned, meat dishes. (Louise Boutin)
93
La Bastide Saint-Dominique Châteauneuf- du-Pape 2016
AOC Châteauneuf-du-Pape $49.95 (696203) 15.0% alcohol
This bright, medium-ruby-hued blend—80% grenache, 10% syrah, 7% mourvèdre, 3% cinsault—offers a generous and inviting nose of ripe dark cherry, prune, kirsch liqueur, baking spice, dark chocolate, pipe tobacco and light smoke. This high-octane southern-Rhône red flows on the palate with vivacity and richness where flavours of perfectly ripe dark fruit face bright raspberry, complemented with mocha, charred herbs and a touch of cinnamon. This is medium-full bodied with perfect balance and structure offering a long comforting fruity, spicy finish. Pair with slowly simmered dried-cherry pork roast. (Louise Boutin)
France: Rosé Wine
89
Mimi en Provence ‘Grande Réserve’ Rosé 2017
AOP Côtes de Provence $18.95 (452573) 13.0% alcohol
Pretty floral notes and red fruit aromas abound on the nose of this very pale, salmon-hued rosé. Red currants, strawberries and raspberries replay on the tangy palate persisting through the lengthy finish. Dry, medium-light bodied, clean and fresh textured, this value-packed, versatile wine can be enjoyed on its own or with an array of lighter fare. (Lisa Isabelle)
Italy: Red Wine
• Fruit for the following 2013 I Castei ‘Campo Casalin’ Amarone was hand-picked then dried in winery rooms for three to four months. Fermentation takes place is casks with maceration lasting over forty days with two weeks of pump overs. It then undergoes two decants before being poured into French barrels—some new and some 2nd and 3rd fill—where it matures a number of years then is bottle-fined for about 12 months. Amarone connossieurs and ordinary red wine-lovers will appreciate this.
92
I Castei ‘Campo Casalin’ Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico 2013
DOCG Amarone della Valpolicella $52.95 (946558) 15.5% alcohol
This is a blend of 70% corvina veronese and corvinone/25% rondinella/5% molinara. A swashbuckling stream of fig, raisin, mocha and juicy black currant flavour envelops the palate; it demands your attention in the nicest way. It then mingles with excellent acidity and polished ripe tannin on the back palate. It’s full-bodied with textured mouthfeel and long balanced finish and aftertaste. A two-hour aeration/decant will enhance your imbibing experience. This pairs well with osso buco, aged hard cheese, e.g. parmigiana reggiano, or lamb shanks. (Vic Harradine)
Spain: White Wine
89
Ontañón ‘Vetiver’ Viura 2014
DOCa Rioja $16.95 (437707) 12.5% alcohol
Viura, known as macabeo in other areas of Spain, is one of nine permitted white grapes in the Rioja DOCa region. It spent six months in oak and a further six months in bottle before release leading to expressive aromas of ripe pear, honeydew melon, orchard blossom and white pepper on the nose. Dry, medium bodied, nicely textured with a creamy mouthfeel, flavours of poached pear, golden delicious apple underscored with suggestions of toast and minerality are enjoyed through the mid-length finish. Enjoy with seared scallops or a prosciutto and melon appetizer. (Lisa Isabelle)
Spain: Red Wine
88
Balbas ‘Barrica 5 Meses - Old Vines’ Tempranillo 2015
DO Ribera del Duero $15.95 (543710) 14.0% alcohol
The ‘5 meses’ refers to the 5 months this old-vine tempranillo spent maturing in oak. Red licorice, baking spice and stewed plum aromas introduce this full-bodied, easy-drinking red. A rich, luscious river of flavour blankets the palate with red cherry, blueberry and black plum to the fore along with baking spice, toasty bits and savoury herbs. The lingering finish is balanced and lip-smacking good. At this price… load up the trunk. (Vic Harradine)
89
Barón de Ley Reserva 2013
DOCa Rioja $21.95 (958868) 13.5% alcohol
This well-priced tempranillo-based Reserva was aged 20 months in new American oak casks and two years in bottle before release. Aromas of cherry and plum are adorned with hints of vanilla, caramel and a dusty mineral note. Dry and medium-full bodied, tart cherry, blackberry and red plum flavours bathe the palate joined by notions of cocoa and mint. Fine-grained tannins line the mid-length finish. Enjoy alongside rosemary-infused leg of lamb. (Lisa Isabelle)
89
Castaño ‘Hécula’ Monastrell 2015
DO Yecla $14.95 (718999) 14.0% alcohol
There’s exceptional value in this appealing single-varietal red from south-east Spain produced with vines averaging over 50 years of age. The nose is awakened with a minty freshness supported by dark berries, plums and hints of cinnamon. Dry, mid-plus weight with pleasant, grippy tannins, the richly textured palate is awash with spiced dark fruit compote flavour while a trace of anise lingers on the lengthy finish. Pour with braised beef short ribs or a mixed grill. (Lisa Isabelle)
91
Enrique Mendoza ‘La Tremenda’ Monastrell 2016
DO Alicante $17.95 (490011) 14.0% alcohol
This single-vineyard gem, produced with grapes from 25-year-old vines, was fermented in stainless steel tank, aged 6 months in American oak barrels and a further 12 months in bottle before release. Aromas of fresh red cherry, plum and blueberry interweave with bay leaf, vanilla and leather. Flavours of spiced red and dark fruit, savoury herbs and an earthy note caress the palate. Dry, medium-full bodied with prominent tannins and well-integrated alcohol, tangy fruit flavours endure through the lasting finish. (Lisa Isabelle)
90
Montecillo Gran Reserva 2009
DOCa Rioja $29.95 (239277) 13.5% alcohol
This expressive offering was produced from 100% tempranillo grapes, aged two years in French and American oak casks and rested three years in bottle before being released. The nose hints at its maturity—aromas of leather, mocha and a balsamic tinge—are backed by ripe dark cherry, vanilla and spice notes. Dry and medium-full bodied with firm tannins, dark plum, cherry, prune and spice flavours dominate the palate with subtle hints of bergamot and dusty cocoa extending through the medium-long, drying finish. (Lisa Isabelle)
91
Ontañón Reserva 2010
DOCa Rioja $25.95 (725895) 13.5% alcohol
Subtle notions of smoke, cedar and toast are supported by tangy red cherry and dark berry fruit on the nose of this well-structured, tasty red. Mouth-coating waves of ripe, dark plum and blackberry, interlaced with vanilla, sweet spice and chocolate, flood the palate. Dry, medium-full bodied, it finishes medium-long with defined tannins, moderating acidity and enduring dark fruit flavours. Pair with slow-cooked beef stew. (Lisa Isabelle)
90
Urbina Gran Reserva 1996
DOCa Rioja $54.95 (355743) 14.0% alcohol
Here’s a chance to try an interesting, aged wine at quite a good price. Produced with 90% tempranillo, 5% graciano, 5% mazuelo from 20-year-old vines, it demonstrates an interesting balance between fruit and aging. It’s garnet in colour while the nose, initially quite gamy, offers dried fruit aromas joined by earth, dry leaves, leather and a hint of balsamic reduction. This is dry and medium-full bodied with velvety tannins and good acidity balancing the dried cherry, plum, spice and sweet vanilla flavours on the lengthy, smoky finish. (Lisa Isabelle)
94
R. López de Heredia ‘Viña Tondonia’ Reserva 2005
DOCa Rioja $49.95 (356337) 13.0% alcohol
This blend of predominantly tempranillo fruit hails from one of the oldest bodegas in Rioja. It was fermented in 140-year-old oak vats then aged six years in oak casks before being bottled unfiltered. It then settled in bottle a further six months prior to release. Abundant aromas of figs and prunes, dried leaves, campfire smoke and sweet pipe tobacco waft easily from the glass. Dry, mid-plus weight and nicely balanced, the palate features spiced red fruit, tea leaves and a pleasant balsamic note supported by a firm tannic grip and clean acidity through the long, lively finish. (Lisa Isabelle)
Upstream in winecurrent
Vintages Release: January 5, 2019
• A warm start to spring and early bud break plus warm temperatures during growing season provided an early harvest of organoleptically ripe fruit and smooth, polished tannin for the following 2016 Jim Barry ‘The Barry Bros’ Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon. Fermented in stainless steel tank for seven to ten days, it was pumped over twice daily with rack and return once a day then pressed. It underwent malolactic conversion in tank then racked to French oak for maturation before bottling.
91
Jim Barry ‘The Barry Bros’ Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon 2016
Clare Valley, Australia $19.95 (632059) 14.0% alcohol
This value-packed, 60% shiraz/40% cabernet sauvignon blend hails from Clare Valley, a small, über-premium, cool-climate region in Australia. Lively, lifted aromas of red berry fruit, piquant spice, and floral notes abound on the nose of this medium-weight, nicely textured red. It rolls over the palate showcasing flavours of spice-infused, crunchy red fruit—currant, cherry and plum—robed in mouth-watering tang and supported by ripe, polished tannin. The finish is lengthy and balanced with ripe, juicy mulberry flavour and is lip-smacking good. It’s drinking well now, enhanced by a brief two-hour aeration/decant, and pairs well with grilled gourmet sausage, rich stew, steak and burgers. (Vic Harradine)
New in LCBO Portfolio
90
Kacaba ‘Select Series’ Unoaked Chardonnay 2017
VQA Niagara Peninsula $15.95 (326975) 13.5% alcohol
Beguiling aromas of floral notes, honeydew melon and lemon pie filling abound on the nose of this delectable unoaked chardonnay. It blankets the palate with ripe fruit and tangy acidity—green apple, ripe pear and a gorgeous dollop of creamy-smooth lemon curd. It’s medium-weight with good mouthfeel and a lengthy, lip-smacking finish and aftertaste. Pour on its own or with rotisserie-roast chicken, skillet-seared pork chops or pan-seared fish or seafood. (Vic Harradine)
• The following 2016 Kacaba ‘Select Series’ Cabernet is a blend of 90% cabernet franc and 10% cabernet sauvignon. For each bottle purchased between now and November 10 you’ll receive 5 bonus Airmiles.
86
Kacaba ‘Select Series’ Cabernet 2016
VQA Ontario $14.95 (499384) 13.3% alcohol
Mixed spice, dark coffee and grilled herb aromas on the nose precede a palate-bathing flow of red currant and passionfruit framed by racy acidity and robed in leafy herbal notes. It’s medium bodied with a drying finish and aftertaste. This pairs well with meat lasagna, red pizza and pasta in tomato sauce. (Vic Harradine)
• The following 2017 ERA Sauvignon Blanc from Sicily is a newly listed wine. If it isn’t in the LCBO store where you shop, you may want to ask the Store Manager to order some.
86
ERA Sauvignon Blanc 2017
IGT Terre Siciliane, Italy $10.95 (632307) 12.5% alcohol
Aromas of savoury herbs, honeydew melon and exotic spice precede a medium-bodied, nicely textured streak of tang and flavour with lemon zest and racy lime to the fore. The finish lingers, clean, crisp and refreshing. The aftertaste delivers a mouth-watering line of racy tang. Sip this certified organic white on its own as an aperitif or pour with pan-seared or grilled, fish or seafood. (Vic Harradine)
Cheers, Lisa, Louise, Vic