October 21, 2018 Newsletter
Newsletter Highlights include:
- Exceptional-value wine
– 6 from a total of 45 wines in this newsletter that are available October 27 at LCBO retail and in winery meet strict quality-price guidelines. Five are found in the following Vintages Release with one at the end of the newsletter under Upstream in winecurrent. The wines range from $15.95 to $18.95 and are found throughout the newsletter easily identified via the exceptional-value checkmark above. What strict guidelines? Click here. - 95 and over – no wine scored 95 points and over.
- Vic Picks – 2016 Featherstone ‘Premium Cuvée Joy’ Sparkling Rosé earned 89 points @ $29.95 found under Sparkling Wine; Bottega Gold Prosecco Non-Vintage earned 88 points @ $27.95 found under Sparkling Wine; 2017 Domaine Drouhin ‘Cloudline’ Pinot Noir earned 92 points @ $25.95 found under Oregon: Red Wine; 2015 San Pedro ‘1865 - Selected Vineyards’ Cabernet Sauvignon earned 91 points at $19.95 found under Chile: Red Wine; 2015 Domaine de Rochebin ‘Vieilles Vignes’ Bourgogne Pinot Noir earned 91 points @ $23.95 found under France: Red Wine.
Identify the LCBO store nearest you with stock of any wine with an LCBO product number by clicking on the number shown in brackets in wine reviews then clicking on ‘Select Stores’ and entering your postal code—the number of bottles available in stores near you is displayed as well as online—or by clicking ‘Check all stores’ where you’ll see stock available in all LCBO stores. For Vintages Release wines, stock should be displayed the Friday before a Saturday release, updated every 24 hours, some stores post earlier. LCBO Portfolio wines (wine not in Vintages) should always closely reflect stock in stores, updated every 24 hours. However, it’s always best to phone the store before making a trip.
October 27, 2018 Vintages Release
Fortified Wine: Port
92
Offley ‘10 Year Old Tawny’ Port
DOP Douro $26.95 (297788) 20.0% alcohol
From cork pop to last drop this is reasonably priced and offley good. Piquant spice, caramel and spirits’ aromas abound. A gorgeous array of hi-toned, sweet-tinged flavours coat the palate with sweet vanilla, aromatic bitters, toffee and mixed spice dominant. It’s velvety smooth and generously textured with unctuous flavours replaying on the lingering finish. Pour with consommé, spice cake or crème brûlée. (Vic Harradine)
Sparkling Wine
89
Featherstone ‘Premium Cuvée Joy’ Sparkling Rosé 2016
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $29.95 (450700) 12.5% alcohol
For ease of opening, this is sealed under crown cap. This méthode traditionelle, 100% pinot noir was hand harvested, whole-cluster pressed and rested on its lees for 12 months before disgorgement. It bubbles over with frothy mousse and a delightful array of barely off-dry palate flavours with bright red currant, ripe strawberry and oodles of tang to the fore. It’s medium weight and showcases a monumentally lengthy lip-smacking finish and aftertaste. Pour with an assortment of appetizers. (Vic Harradine)
88
Oyster Bay Sparkling Cuvée Brut Non-Vintage
New Zealand $22.95 (163634) 12.0% alcohol
Aromas of baking brioche and alluring floral notes open this zippy refreshing gem. The energetic mousse supports flavours of green apple, ripe white peach and slate. It’s nicely textured and finishes lengthy with ripe citrus, sweet notes of ripe pineapple and tree fruit. The sweet and tang on the lip-smacking finish offers the opportunity to pair with spicy appetizers or to sip on its own, either is equally delightful. (Vic Harradine)
• The following Non-Vintage, Bottega Gold Prosecco is a prescient choice for Wine of the Month with the holiday season fast approaching.
88
Bottega Gold Prosecco Non-Vintage
DOC Treviso, Veneto, Italy $27.95 (621458) 11.0% alcohol
The golden-coloured bottle isn’t merely bling, it preserves freshness in the wine longer than clear glass. Hand-harvested glera grapes produced this Charmat-method sparkler. It’s dry, crisp and refreshing throughout with aromas and flavours of lip-smacking, lemon zest, green apple and pear—pour with lighter appetizers or seafood. This also glitters in a variety of winery-suggested cocktails. (Vic Harradine)
Ontario: White Wine
92
Hidden Bench Estate Winery Chardonnay 2016
VQA Beamsville Bench $29.95 (68817) 13.0% alcohol
This is an outstanding expression of certified-organic Niagara chardonnay. Pronounced aromas of red apple, white grapefruit, butterscotch and vanilla segue to a creamy-textured wash of apple, tangy citrus and spice notes on the palate. Dry, medium bodied, it’s well-balanced with a long, mouth-watering, mineral-laden finish. Delicious on its own or enjoy with almond-crusted halibut fillets. (Lisa Isabelle)
91
Redstone Chardonnay 2015
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (398966) 12.5% alcohol
This is very good value showcasing deft balance, lovely flavours and a lengthy finish. Aromas of orange peel and floral notes introduce a balanced wash of green apple, yellow plum and lemon zest flavour bathing the palate with medium-bodied weight and good mouthfeel. Orchard fruit and sweet vanilla appear on the lingering, mouth-watering finish. Pour alongside breaded pork cutlets. (Vic Harradine)
Ontario: Red Wine
92
Henry of Pelham ‘Speck Family Reserve’ Cabernet-Merlot 2012
VQA Short Hills Bench $39.95 (616433) 14.0% alcohol
Alluring aromas of baking spice, dark chocolate and espresso roast mingle with black, juicy cherry on the nose of this medium-plus weight, generously textured beauty. It bathes the palate well balanced and elegant with juicy, black briary berry and piquant spice robed in excellent tang bolstered by an underpinning of soft tannin structure. Pour now with grilled rack of lamb or enjoy further development 2019-2024. (Vic Harradine)
California: White Wine
88
Joel Gott Sauvignon Blanc 2016
California $19.95 (191593) 13.9% alcohol
Savoury herbs and citrus aromas provide segue for a persistent line of tangy citrus—grapefruit and lemon/lime—melding with tart passionfruit and racing over the palate with oodles of tang and acidity. The mouth-watering acidity dominates the finish and aftertaste. This is medium bodied with a zesty, clean and crisp finish. Pair with prawn ceviche, sushi or freshly shucked oysters. (Vic Harradine)
90
Sofia Chardonnay 2016
Monterey County $27.95 (458836) 12.8% alcohol
Gorgeous aromas of exotic spice, honeyed pit fruit and pear abound before unleashing a palate-enveloping stream of sweet and tang—caramel and sweet vanilla meets soft citrus and pineapple. This is somewhat off-dry with medium-plus body, generous texture and a lengthy finish adorned with palate replays of toasty notes and orchard fruit. Pour with roast fowl or crown roast of pork and apple sauce. (Vic Harradine)
California: Red Wine
90
Decoy Zinfandel 2016
Sonoma County $34.95 (327502) 13.9% alcohol
Spice box, grilled savory herbs and charred toast on the nose, a bold, brawny wash of savory- and herb-infused bramble berry, tarry notes and mocha envelop the palate adorned with soft tannin and excellent acidity. This is medium-full bodied with good texture and a balanced, lengthy and delicious finish. Aerate/decant a couple of hours and pour with grilled rib eye steak and grilled Portobello mushrooms. (Vic Harradine)
92
Francis Ford Coppola ‘Diamond Collection – Claret’ 2016
Sonoma County $29.95 (479055) 13.5% alcohol
This is smooth and mellow on the palate with balanced ripe fruit and acidity throughout and firm structure. Aromas of toasty charred oak, dark berry fruit and espresso roast precede a medium-weight, well-textured flow of black and red currant adorned with cassis, grilled savory herbs, sweet vanilla and kirsch liqueur. There’s a firm underpinning of tannin on the back palate, finish and aftertaste—aerate/decant three hours before service. Give this a go with smoked beef brisket. (Vic Harradine)
91
Mount Veeder Winery Cabernet Sauvignon 2014
Napa Valley $49.95 (708842) 14.5% alcohol
Dark fruit and exotic spice aromas flourish on the nose of this lovely Napa cab. It blankets the palate with spice, tang and ripe fruit flavour—look for juicy dark cherry and black currant adorned with peppery spice and tangy acidity. This is medium-plus bodied with good mouthfeel and a lick of tannin that’s easily ameliorated by a two-hour aeration/decant or a couple of years of careful cellaring. One wouldn’t go wrong pouring this with a grilled, well-seasoned slab of prime beef. (Vic Harradine)
91
Seghesio ‘Sonoma’ Zinfandel 2016
Sonoma County $29.95 (942151) 14.8% alcohol
This zinfandel has a dash of petite sirah, perpetuating a family tradition at this 120-year-old winery. The lovely nose—plum compote, cherry pie filling, blueberry and a delicate hint of violet—prepares the palate for a silky-textured flood of flavour with perfectly ripe purple plum, juicy dark cherry with layers of dry cocoa and black peppercorn adding texture and complexity through the delicious, lengthy, warm finish. Aerate/decant for one hour pouring alongside grilled rack of lamb; also enjoy as an excellent after-dinner sipper. (Louise Boutin)
Oregon: White Wine
89
Stoller Family Chardonnay 2016
Dundee Hills, Yamhill County $27.95 (461574) 12.5% alcohol
This lean, clean and lip-smacking tasty. A flow of lemon curd and saline minerality intertwine with pear and green apple streaking across the palate with great nerve and verve. It finishes with more of the same—crisp, clean and refreshing. Pour with pan-seared fish or grilled or breaded calamari under a generous squeeze of fresh lemon. (Vic Harradine)
Oregon: Red Wine
92
Domaine Drouhin ‘Cloudline’ Pinot Noir 2017
Willamette Valley $25.95 (159970) 13.5% alcohol
It’s pronounced, ‘will-am-itt’, dammit. This leaps from the glass with lifted aromas of spice box and red berry fruit aromas. Crunchy red fruit—currant, pie cherry and cranberry—dominate palate flavour, decorated with peppery spice, grilled savory herbs and polished tannin adding interest. It’s medium weight with satin-smooth texture and a lengthy, dry, mouth-watering finish and aftertaste. Pour with smoked duck breasts or coq au vin. (Vic Harradine)
Argentina: Red Wine
• Fruit for the following 2014 Luigi Bosca ‘Malbec Terroir - Los Miradores’ Malbec was hand-harvested, cold-soaked for 5 days, fermented in stainless steel tank, with 30% undergoing malolactic conversion and 12 moths maturation in new French oak before joining the 70% balance to be stabilized, filtered and bottled with a further 6 months in bottle before release.
90
Luigi Bosca ‘Malbec Terroir - Los Miradores’ Malbec 2014
Valle de Uco, Mendoza $32.95 (568899) 14.0% alcohol
An expressive nose of dark cherry/berry fruit, raisin and toasty note aromas fill the air. It’s light-medium bodied and quite smooth on the palate expressing lively flavour robed in tangy acidity—red cherry and red currant are dominant decorated with peppery spice and savory herbs. This is tang-laden and underpinned with ripe tannin. Aerate/decant a couple of hours pouring with pasta puttanesca. (Vic Harradine)
Chile: Red Wine
91
San Pedro ‘1865 - Selected Vineyards’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2015
Maipo Valley $19.95 (37911) 14.5% alcohol
This is quite good value. High-toned aromas of berry fruit, baking spice and black pepper set the table for a smorgasbord of flavour—with red and black fruit—red cherry with juicy black plum and dark bramble berry intertwined with excellent tang and sweet-tinged kirsch liqueur. This is medium-full bodied with good mouthfeel, lengthy finish, balanced and beautiful throughout. Aerate/decant for a couple of hours pouring with roast beef, root veggies around the roast, mushroom gravy and Yorkshire pudding. (Vic Harradine)
Australia: White Wine
• The following 2016 Sidewood ‘Estate’ Chardonnay was gently whole-bunch pressed, wild-yeast fermented before partial barrel fermentation and ten months maturation in French oak barrel, 20% new.
93 
Sidewood ‘Estate’ Chardonnay 2016
Adelaide Hills $17.95 (186346) 12.5% alcohol
This chardonnay is from one of South Australia’s premium producers punching well above the price. Free-run juice from three Chardonnay clones were harvested at various times to capture specific flavours. Those complex flavours and persistent purity of fruit mark it as special. Apple, pear and baking spice aromas launch a full-bodied, well-textured flood of flavour—Granny Smith apple and bracing lemon-lime mingling with tropical fruit and white nectarine. It finishes lengthy, balanced and beautiful. (Vic Harradine)
91
Stella Bella ‘Skuttlebutt’ Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon 2017
Margaret River, Western Australia $19.95 (47621) 12.0% alcohol
Sourced from a popular Aussie white blend of sauvignon blanc and semillon, 67% and 33% respectively. This leaps from the glass with piquant spice, lemon-lime citrus and hints of tropical fruit. It’s carried on the palate with a stream of tangy acidity with white grapefruit and lemon curd leading the way decorated with notions of minerality and ripe pear and apple. This is light on its feet with plenty of pizzazz from opening twist top to final, mouth-watering drop. Pour with grilled prawns or fish under a squeeze of fresh lemon. (Vic Harradine)
Australia: Red Wine
90
3 Rings Shiraz 2015
Barossa Valley, South Australia $19.95 (15495) 14.9% alcohol
Dark toast and cherry/berry fruit aromas herald a fruit-filled, medium-plus bodied, nicely textured flow of black raspberry, piquant spice and grilled savory herbs. The lingering finish is balanced and consistent with the pleasing palate flavours. Aerate decant a couple of hours pairing with burgers, steak or beef fajitas. (Vic Harradine)
New Zealand: White Wine
87
Villa Maria ‘Cellar Selection’ Sauvignon Blanc 2017
Marlborough, South Island $21.95 (974527) 12.5% alcohol
Grassy, herbal and orchard fruit aromas open the door to a racy, fairly thin wash of gooseberry and melon then pungent white grapefruit flavours that bathe the palate infusing the mid-length finish and aftertaste. It would pair well with olive-oiled arugula and radicchio under grilled and crumbled chèvre. (Vic Harradine)
South Africa: White Wine
90
KWV ‘Cathedral Cellar’ Chardonnay 2015
WO Western Cape $16.95 (328559) 14.0% alcohol
Tropical fruit and floral notes waft easily from this value-laden, medium-plus bodied nicely textured chardonnay. It envelopes the palate with delightful tang—lemon and pineapple—interwoven with ripe fruit—pear, nectarine and quince jelly. This is medium-full bodied with creamy smooth texture and a lengthy, balanced finish featuring palate replays and wisps of sweet vanilla and caramel apple. In a word... delicious. (Vic Harradine)
France: White Wine
91
Louis Jadot Pouilly-Fuissé 2016
AOC Pouilly-Fuissé $39.95 (732917) 13.0% alcohol
This is a gorgeous rendition of chardonnay beginning with aromas of apple, pineapple and lemon. It spreads over the palate with a fruit salad of flavour with citrus tang—grilled pineapple, lemon curd and grapefruit balanced with a generous helping of tropical fruit, peach and pear. It’s medium-plus weight with good mouthfeel and a striking finish that’s lip-smacking good, clean and crisp. This is very good throughout and from a highly respected producer of fine wine. (Vic Harradine)
France: Rosé Wine
88
George Duboeuf Beaujolais Rosé 2017
AOC Beaujolais $18.95 (409755) 12.0% alcohol
Strawberry and spice and gamay that’s nice, that’s what this Rosé’s made of. Aromas of savory herbs, freshly picked strawberry and piquant spice waft easily from the designer bottle before unleashing a surprisingly intense stream of fruit flavour and tang with strawberry/rhubarb and racy pie cherry to the fore; it’s good value, too. It finishes with more of the same, lengthy, dry and lip-smacking good. Pour with charcuterie platter, white pizza or soft creamy cheese like brie or camembert. (Vic Harradine)
88
Xavier Côtes du Rhône Rosé 2017
AOP Côtes du Rhône $16.95 (450908) 13.0% alcohol
This Rhône Valley red blend delivers in spades from opening pop to last drop; it’s also good value. There’s plenty of tang and acidity throughout delivered on a bed of flavour—red cherry, passionfruit, piquant spice and tart rhubarb. It streaks over the palate infusing the crisp, clean and refreshing aftertaste. Pour with grilled or skillet-seared Atlantic salmon under a squish of fresh lemon or a mixed deli platter. (Vic Harradine)
France: Red Wine
• The following 2014 Château Teyssier is a red blend—85% merlot/15% cabernet franc—hand-picked and sorted, fermented in stainless steel then matured in French oak, one-third new.
90
Château Teyssier 2014
AOC Montagne-Saint-Émilion $24.95 (226035) 13.5% alcohol
Dark berry fruit aromas cloaked in earthy notes and savory herbs presage a creamy-smooth, deftly balanced fruit filled wash of black currant, dark plum and cassis blanketing the palate persisting through the long balanced finish. It’s certainly well priced and delivers a tasty, flavour-filled, red Bordeaux blend—85% merlot and 15% cabernet franc. Good to go now after a two-hour aeration/decant and on to 2023. (Vic Harradine)
91
Domaine de Rochebin ‘Vieilles Vignes’ Bourgogne Pinot Noir 2015
AOC Bourgogne $23.95 (473890) 12.5% alcohol
A highly perfumed nose of exotic spice, cedar and mixed berry fruit aromas precede a spice-laden, tang-infused ribbon of red fruit—plum, cherry and currant—interlaced with savory herbs and piquant spice. This is medium weight with good texture and a luxurious and lengthy, balanced, beautiful finish and punches well above its price. What’s not to like? Pair with the usual pinot noir suspects—fowl or lighter-styled casseroles, charcuterie, rabbit, steak and kidney pie, pâtés or chèvre. (Vic Harradine)
91
Halos de Jupiter Côtes du Rhône 2016
AOC Côtes du Rhône $17.95 (276956) 15.0% alcohol
Aromas of rich, dark cherry/berry fruit and spice are expressed on the palate as bramble berry jam, kirsch liqueur and raspberry compote—sweet, jammy, hedonistic—simply delicious to some wine lovers, while high octane, lacking balance and acidity to others; it comes down to personal preference. This is medium-full bodied with good mouthfeel and a fruit-filled, sweet-tinged finish and aftertaste. Pour with grilled back ribs mopped with spicy barbecue sauce. (Vic Harradine)
Italy: White Wine
• The following 2017 Castello Banfi “Principessa Gavia’ Gavi was sourced from 100% indigenous, estate-grown, cortese grapes, gently pressed and fermented under 18°C for twenty days in stainless steel enhancing freshness and delicate aromas in the wine. The winery began in 1860 then purchased by Banfi in the late 1970s.
92
Castello Banfi “Principessa Gavia’ Gavi 2017
DOCG Piedmont $19.95 (250696) 12.5% alcohol
This is well paced and well priced. Straw, citrus and wisps of honeyed aromas precede an explosion of flavour—lemon curd, sprigs of herbs and hints of pineapple. It coats the palate infusing the clean, refreshing finish and aftertaste. This is light-medium weight with good mouthfeel and a boatload of pizzazz and tangy acidity. Pour as an aperitif or with pan-seared white fish or poached scallops. (Vic Harradine)
92
Marchese Antinori ‘Castello Della Sala - Cervaro Della Sala’ 2016
IGT Umbria $68.95 (512376) 12.5% alcohol
Hi-toned aromas of exotic incense, floral notes and pear blast from the glass. It’s medium bodied with generous mouthfeel and delivers a satin-smooth mouthful of lemon pie filling and white peach flavour. It’s primarily chardonnay with a splash of autochthonous grechetto. The lingering, tangy finish and aftertaste is lip-smacking good. This was built for connoisseurs and the long term—pop corks now to 2030. (Vic Harradine)
Italy: Red Wine
90
Papale Linea ‘Oro’ Primitivo Di Manduria 2015
DOP Primitivo Di Manduria $23.95 (261784) 14.0% alcohol
Aromas of rich mixed berry fruit and floral notes open a palate-pleasing mouthful of black juicy fruit—raspberry, currant and cherry—adorned with rich dark, bittersweet chocolate. This is medium-full weight with generous texture. It finishes lengthy with excellent balance, oodles of ripe fruit and plenty of pizzazz. Pour with grilled smoked back ribs mopped with spicy barbecue sauce. (Vic Harradine)
• Fruit for the following 2013 Banfi Brunello Di Montalcino was sourced from 100% estate-grown, select-clone sangiovese on the southern hills of Montalcino grown at +200m above sea level. It was fermented 10-12 days, matured 2 years in French oak then kept in bottle until released in the fifth year after harvest.
93
Banfi Brunello Di Montalcino 2013
DOCG Brunello Di Montalcino $55.95 (378257) 13.5% alcohol
Lively spice, earthy notes and savory herbs waft from this creamy-smooth, generously textured gem. This showcases persistent purity of fruit, structure, skillful balance and a lengthy finish. A medium-full bodied flow of palate-bathing flavour—ripe juicy black raspberry, red currant and crunchy pie cherry—mingle with excellent tang and acidity and soft supple tannin with all replaying on the dry, lengthy finish. After a three-hour aeration/decant pour with a thick and juicy fine cut of juicy, well-seasoned beef. (Vic Harradine)
89
San Felice Chianti Classico 2015
DOCG Chianti Classico $19.95 (282996) 13.0% alcohol
This is a smooth-drinking blend—80% sangiovese, 10% colorino, 10% pugnitello—that underwent malolactic conversion. Aromas of savory herbs, pipe tobacco and piquant spice provide segue for a racy, tang-laden streak of sour cherry, cranberry and flecks of herbs and spices. Flavours replay on the dry, mouth-watering finish and aftertaste. Pour with pasta in tomato sauce, lasagna or meat-laden red pizza. (Vic Harradine)
90
Monte Del Frá Lena Di Mezzo Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico 2013
DOC Valpolicella Classico $49.95 (47506) 15.5% alcohol
Lifted aromas of red berry fruit and piquant spice leap from the glass. On the palate, it’s a charming, delicious version of Amarone showcasing elegance, fine balance and plenty of flavour. A palate-bathing river of red currant and red plum providing the tang and acidity and black currant and cassis adding juicy ripe flavour to the mix. Overall, it’s medium-plus weight with good mouthfeel and a lingering, balanced and beautiful finish. (Vic Harradine)
89
Remo Farina Ripasso Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2016
DOC Valpolicella Ripasso $18.95 (999946) 13.5% alcohol
Red fruit aromas are joined by notions of strawberry jam, cloves and black pepper on the nose of this easy-going, good-value red blend. The palate offers refreshing flavours of juicy red plum, strawberry, dried cherry and baking spice. Dry, medium bodied, well-balanced and flavourful, this will be enjoyable with grilled beef brochettes. (Lisa Isabelle)
90
Zenato Valpolicella Superiore 2016
DOC Valpolicella Superiore $18.95 (995704) 13.5% alcohol
This is medium bodied and value packed with good texture, crunchy red fruit and a lengthy, dry finish. Aromas of cherry/berry fruit provide entry for a lively river of red berry fruit and juicy black cherry interweaving with excellent tang and sweet-tinged fruit flavour coating the palate. Palate-flavours replay on the balanced, dry, mouth-watering finish and aftertaste. Give this a go with Swiss steak or pasta Bolognese. (Vic Harradine)
Portugal: Red Wine
88
Vinha do Cais da Ribeira ‘Reserva’ 2015
DOC Douro, Portugal $13.95 (523639) 13.5% alcohol
Aromas of woodsmoke, earthy notes and licorice make way for a medium-bodied, nicely textured stream of sweet-tinged red and dark fruit—dark cherry, red plum and black raspberry—interweaving with good tang and hints of piquant spice. This is balanced on a pin with good fruit flavour and tangy acidity forming a smooth, mellow partnership. Food friendly, it’s versatile at the table—try meat-laden pizza, fajitas, roast chicken, burgers or spicy wings. (Vic Harradine)
90
Quadrus ‘Reserva’ 2011
DOC Douro $30.95 (534271) 14.0% alcohol
Found this quite smooth and mellow on the palate with a tang-infused stream of piquant spice and pie cherry juxtaposed with balancing black plum and currant flavours garnished with notions of mocha and spice. This is medium-full bodied with good structure, complexity and a mid-length, balanced finish. Pour with cassoulet or osso buco. (Vic Harradine)
Spain: Red Wine
90
Bodegas Langa ‘Chapillon Siendra’ 2015
DO Calatayud $15.95 (417675) 14.5% alcohol
This is a red blend of 80% garnacha tinta, 7% syrah, 7% cabernet sauvignon, 6% merlot. It dishes up a rich luscious gusher of palate-enveloping dark fruit—black cherry and black currant—decorated with piquant spice, gamy notes and minerality. It’s medium-plus bodied with good texture and a lengthy finish showcasing deft balance and oodles of flavour, charm and appeal. Pour with meat-laden pizza, chicken fajitas, beef burritos or spicy wings. (Vic Harradine)
• The following 2010 Lan ‘Gran Reserva’ was sourced from 30-year-old, low-yielding bush vines from a blend of 94% tempranillo and 6% mazuelo. It matured 24 months in American and French oak barrel and a further minimum of 36 months in bottle before release. Much-respected winemaker, Maria Barua, brings education—degrees in oenology and chemistry—and valued local experience being born, growing up and being educated in Rioja.
93
Lan ‘Gran Reserva’ 2010
DOCa Rioja $34.95 (928622) 13.5% alcohol
This is a perennial favourite, value-laden, beautifully balanced with persistent purity of fruit, firm structure and plenty of depth and charm. Dark and brooding in the glass, this offers up lovely aromas of mixed berry fruit, baking spice and vanilla before blanketing the palate with a balanced, structured flow of racy red fruit—cherry and plum—nicely juxtaposed with ripe black fruit—raspberry and currant decorated with hints of licorice. It’s mid-weight with good texture and a long finish. Enhance your imbibing experience, now to 2025, with a two-hour aeration/decant. (Vic Harradine)
89
Ramon Bilbao ‘Limited Edition’ Tempranillo 2014
DOCa Rioja $17.95 (547950) 14.0% alcohol
This offers ripe-fruit flavour, exceptional value, medium-body, deft balance and a lengthy finish and aftertaste. What’s not to like? Tangy mixed berry fruit aromas interplay with tarry notes and licorice on the nose of this silky-smooth red. It releases a fruit-fueled river of palate-enveloping flavour with black currant, dark cherry and plum interlaced with toasty notes and replays of black licorice… all balanced and tasty. Pour with roasted or grilled red meat, beef fajitas, meat stew or prawn and chorizo paella. (Vic Harradine)
92
Bodegas Francos-Espanolos ‘Rioja Bordón - Reserva’ 2011
DOCa Rioja $19.95 (194753) 13.5%% alcohol
This is an interesting red blend of tempranillo, garnacha, mazuelo. Fresh, lively aromas of exotic incense and cherry/berry fruit set the table for a bowlful of flavour—black plum, red and black currant and briary berry interlaced with spice box and dark chocolate. It’s value-packed, medium weight with good texture, a fruity, tang-laden finish and a boatload of charm. (Vic Harradine)
Upstream in winecurrent
Vintages Release: November 10, 2018
91
Baron de Hoen ‘Réserve’ Pinot Gris 2016
AOC Alsace $16.95 (461657) 12.5% alcohol
With each sip as good or better than the previous, you could stock-up on this delicious offering as the price-quality balance tips wildly in your favour. Floral notes and tropical fruit aromas provide segue for a delectable, lively rush of honeyed pit fruit, grilled pineapple and soft citrus flavours bathing the palate with charm, balance and pizzazz. This pours very well on its own and also with ham, soft creamy cheese, white pizza or lighter-styled seafood appetizers. (Vic Harradine)
New in British Columbia Wineries
• Order the following wine to be shipped to your home or office in most provinces, including Ontario, via this link - Culmina Family Estate Winery.
• The following 2017 Culmina Family Estate Winery ‘Decora’ Riesling was sourced from 100% estate-grown vines grown on the elevated—595m above sea level—Margaret’s Bench providing a slightly cooler and longer ripening cycle. Estate-grown Grüner Veltiner and Chardonnay are also planted on this bench.
93
Culmina Family Estate Winery ‘Decora’ Riesling 2017
VQA Okanagan Valley $21.00 13.5% alcohol
There’s plenty to like in this dry riesling, including the price. It showcases deft balance, ripe orchard fruit, an interesting mineral character and lingering aftertaste. Aromas of pear, apple and floral notes provide segue to a tangy, creamy-smooth wash of ripe pear, grapefruit and hints of apple bathing the palate with excellent acidity. It’s soft on the finish with a ripe pear replay and lemon pie filling ending dry and delectable on the long mineral aftertaste. Sip solo or pour with sushi or a mixed deli board. (Vic Harradine)
92
Culmina Family Estate Winery ‘Dilemma’ Chardonnay 2016
VQA Okanagan Valley $34.00 14.0% alcohol
This was sourced from five-year-old estate chardonnay vines found on the elevated Margaret’s Bench. Aromas of baking spice and buttered toast precede a medium-plus bodied, creamy smooth wash of palate-coating flavour with an array of racy tang—lemon, pineapple and grapefruit—interwoven with oaky notes, piquant spice and flecks of flinty minerality. The aftertaste lingers—crisp, clean and refreshing. (Vic Harradine)
• Fruit for the following 2015 Culmina ‘R & D’ ‘Red Blend’ was sourced from an estate-grown, red blend of merlot/cabernet sauvignon/cabernet franc/malbec/petit verdot grown on Arise Bench.
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Culmina ‘R & D’ ‘Red Blend’ 2016
VQA Golden Mile Bench, Okanagan Valley $23.00 14.0% alcohol
Dark-purple hued, almost opaque in the glass, this gives up alluring aromas of black bramble berry, sweet vanilla and charred toast. It envelops the palate with a tasty river of juicy black cherry, black plum, fig and dark bittersweet chocolate intertwined with wisps of tangy passionfruit. It’s medium-full bodied with generous mouthfeel, deft balance and lengthy, luxurious mouth-watering finish and aftertaste. Pour on its own or pair with grilled and seasoned rib-eye or beef fajitas. (Vic Harradine)
Cheers, Vic, Louise, Lisa, Dave