Winecurrent
October 7, 2018 Newsletter

Newsletter Highlights include:

  • Exceptional-value wine Exceptional Value! – 6 from a total of 46 wines in this newsletter that are available October 13 at LCBO retail meet strict quality-price guidelines. Four are found in the following Vintages Release with two at the end of the newsletter. The wines range from $12.95 to $18.95 and are found throughout the newsletter easily identified via the exceptional-value checkmark above. Strict guidelines? Click here.
  • Finding Waldo – There’s only one grape grown in Muscadet Sèvre et Maine and it’s not muscat. What is it?
  • 95 and over – two wines scored 95 points and over: 2014 Elderton ‘Command – Single-Vineyard’ Shiraz earned 96 points at $99.95 found under Australia: Red Wine and 2016 Tenuta Sette Ponti ‘Oreno’ earned 95 points at $86.95 found under Italy: Red Wine.
  • Vic Picks – Bellissimo Brut Prosecco Non-Vintage earned 90 points at $24.95 found under Sparkling Wine; 2011 Château Bel Air earned 93 points at $27.95 found under France: Red Wine; 2016 Domaine les Grands Bois ‘Cuvée Philippine Sainte-Cécile’ Côtes du Rhône-Villages earned 90 points at $20.95 also found under France; Red Wine and 2013 Brigaldara ‘Cavolo’ Amarone Della Valpolicella earned 92 points at $46.95 found under Italy: Red Wine.

Identify the LCBO store nearest you with stock of any wine with an LCBO product number by clicking on the number shown in brackets in wine reviews then clicking on ‘Select Stores’ and entering your postal code—the number of bottles available in stores near you is displayed as well as online—or by clicking ‘Check all stores’ where you’ll see stock available in all LCBO stores. For Vintages Release wines, stock should be displayed the Friday before a Saturday release, updated every 24 hours, some stores post earlier. LCBO Portfolio wines (wine not in Vintages) should always closely reflect stock in stores, updated every 24 hours. However, it’s always best to phone the store before making a trip.

October 13, 2018 Vintages Release

Dessert Wine

90drink now
The Lyme Bay ‘Moniack Mead’ Non-Vintage

United Kingdom $19.95 (987263) 14.5% alcohol

The history of mead, made by fermenting honey and water, goes back as far as 8000 years. This particular brand is wildly popular and extremely sought after around the world. In the glass, it has hues of deep golden brown. There are predominant aromas of honey and beeswax with secondary notions of honeydew melon, clover and burnt sugar. It’s full bodied, sweet in the mouth—stops well short of being cloying—with flavours of caramel, honey, and apple. Enjoy by itself after dinner or with home-baked apple pie. (Dave Isaacs)

Icewine

90drink or cellar Oh Canada!
Henry of Pelham Cabernet Icewine 2015

VQA Niagara Peninsula $39.95 200 mL (672402) 10.5% alcohol

You’ll find plenty to like in this estate-grown, cabernet franc icewine, especially the delicious flavours and deft balance. Aromas of spice-infused strawberry and raspberry abound before unleashing an unctuous river of palate-bathing flavour with strawberry/rhubarb pie and candied cherry to the fore. It cleans up on the finish and aftertaste laced with tangy blood orange and racy pie cherry. Pour with fruit and dark chocolate flan. (Vic Harradine)

Sparkling Wine

89drink now
Gloria Ferrer ‘Sonoma Brut’ Sparkling Wine - Non-Vintage

Sonoma County, California $33.95 (192898) 12.5% alcohol 

There’s a pretty peachy-pink tinge to this golden wine with appealing aromas of bread yeast, toasted nuts, ripe orchard fruit and citrus that carry through on the palate. Bright and fresh on the attack, it’s dry and mid weight with an impressive creamy mousse that reflects its effervescent character. Lively on the finish, it’s a great wine to whet your appetite. (Susan Desjardins) 

89drink now
Louis Bouillot ‘Perle d’Ivoire’ Blanc de Blancs – Brut - Non-Vintage

AOC Crémant de Bourgogne, France $19.95 (48801) 12.0% alcohol

Dry, light in body, offering a fine creamy mousse, this lovely Crémant balances refreshing vibrant acidity, clean minerality and subtle notes of citrus, green apple and brioche. Long and bright on the finish; it’s very good value and can be enjoyed on its own or with light appetizers. (Susan Desjardins)

87drink now
Luc Belaire ‘Rare’ Sparkling Rosé Non-Vintage

Product of France $39.95 (395384) 750 mL + $99.95 (540104) 1500 mL 12.5% alcohol

The magnum-sized bottle will cellar considerably longer than the regular 750 mL bottle. Both are produced using methode tradionnelle and are a deep-salmon hued, syrah/cinsault/grenache blend offering quite intense aromas of red fruit garnished with dried herbs and flowers. They are dry and mid-weight with red fruit flavours accented by supple, persistent mousse. The tasty field berry flavours linger on the lively finish - sip and savour. (Susan Desjardins)

90drink now
Bellissimo Brut Prosecco Non-Vintage
DOC Prosecco, Italy $24.95 (548164) 11.5% alcohol
This was sourced from 100% glera grapes. Aromas of spiced apple and honey provide entry to a lively stream of spritzy flavour with zesty lemon and Key lime pie to the fore. It’s racy, clean and crisp from cork pop to last drop. Pour own on its own as an aperitif that will get gastric juices and conversation flowing or pair with various seafood or lighter-styled appetizers. (Vic Harradine)

Ontario: White Wine

89drink now Oh Canada!
Cave Spring Estate Gewürztraminer 2015
VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Escarpment $18.95 (302059) 13.5% alcohol
Rose petal and exotic spice aromas open this off-dry, nicely paced gem. It bathes the palate with a medium-bodied, nicely textured flow of flavour with distinctive rosewater, piquant spice and grilled pineapple to the fore. It finishes with more of the same including the wonderful sweet and tang that off-dry gewürztraminer offers. Versatile at the table, a dinner of roast ham dotted with cloves and basted with maple syrup would be perfect. (Vic Harradine)

• Fruit for the following 2016 Henry of Pelham ‘Estate’ Chardonnay was sourced from 100% low-yielding chardonnay from several estate vineyards with 90% barrel fermented in French oak.

90drink or cellar Oh Canada!
Henry of Pelham ‘Estate’ Chardonnay 2016

VQA Short Hills Bench $21.95 (268342) 13.5% alcohol

This was barrel fermented and aged eight months in primarily French oak barrel. Toasty notes, baking spice and ripe apple aromas provide segue for a lively line of acidity and sweet tang interlaced with ripe orchard fruit, racy lemon and notions of flinty minerality. It’s nicely textured with good weight, depth and lengthy finish and aftertaste, Pour alongside pan-seared fish or supermarket rotisserie chicken with home-baked oven fries. (Vic Harradine)

California: White Wine

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Conundrum White 2015

California $21.95 (694653) 13.5% alcohol

Rosewater, exotic spice and sweet, tropical fruit aromas herald a sweet, fleshy river of mandarin orange, baked apple and honeydew melon that coat the palate infusing and dominating the lengthy finish and aftertaste. Pour with fruit flan or spicy Asian cuisine. (Vic Harradine)

93drink or cellar
Davis Bynum ‘River West Vineyard’ Chardonnay 2015
Russian River Valley, Sonoma County $29.95 (205815) 14.5% alcohol
This was hand harvested and spent 12 months in French oak. An alluring nose of baking spice, vanilla and orchard fruit aromas provide segue to a gusher of red apple and ripe pear intertwined with caramel, mixed spice and zesty lemon flavours coating the palate, infusing the well-balanced finish. This is medium-plus bodied and smooth as silk with a lip-smacking saline/mineral aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)

California: Red Wine

• ‘Give me a fulcrum and a place to stand and I will move the earth.’ I doubt Archimedes had access to wine as fine as the following 2014 Francis Ford Coppola ‘Archimedes’ Cabernet Sauvignon, but given the sensuous character of this wine, the earth may move for those who drink it… Eureka!

94cellar
Francis Ford Coppola ‘Archimedes’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2014
Alexander Valley, Sonoma County $79.95 (431825) 14.5% alcohol
Aromas of dark berry fruit, graphite and oaky notes abound. This sensuous, stunning blend of 80% cabernet sauvignon/10% petit verdot/6% cabernet franc/4% malbec showcases persistent purity of fruit, dense structure and a lengthy finish along with overtones of decadent elegance. Juicy black currant, dark plum and cassis coat the palate underpinned by chewy tannin and framed by excellent acidity interwoven with hints of mint and dark chocolate. It’s mid-weight with firm texture and tightly wound finish for now; pop corks 2021 to 2035. (Vic Harradine)

92drink or cellar
Cliff Lede ‘Stags Leap District’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2015
Stags Leap District, Napa Valley $119.95 (14217) 15.0% alcohol
Alluring aromas of exotic spice and dark berry fruit, black licorice and chocolate introduce a formidable flow of palate-coating flavour with bramble berry and juicy black Bing cherry decorated with baking spice sweet vanilla and oaky notes galore. This is full-bodied and well textured with still-evolving tannin predominant. Aerate/decant three or four hours before service or start popping corks in three or four years and on to 2030. (Vic Harradine)

Washington State: White Wine

90drink now
Chateau Ste. Michelle Chardonnay 2016
Columbia Valley $21.95 (232439) 13.5% alcohol
From a very good vintage, fruit underwent malolactic conversion while 48% was tank fermented then blended in for 6 months resting on lees with regular stirring. This is medium-bodied with good texture and a gentle wash of ripe apple and tropical fruit bathing the palate and caressing the finish and aftertaste. Pair with fish, seafood or lighter appetizers. (Vic Harradine)

Argentina: White Wine

88drink or cellar
Luigi Bosca Chardonnay 2017
Mendoza $19.95 (575985) 13.9% alcohol
This was sourced from the winery’s estate vineyards at high altitudes; it was hand harvested, fermented in French oak barrel then partially matured a further six months in French oak barrels. Aromas of baking spice, vanilla and tropical fruit herald a lively river of crisp green apple and tart citrus racing over the palate with tang and great élan. It finishes with replays of palate flavours along with piquant spice. This is medium bodied and nicely textured. It pours well with roast chicken or pork cutlets. (Vic Harradine)

Argentina: Red Wine

90drink or cellar Exceptional Value!
Kadabra Cabernet Sauvignon 2016
Tupungato, Uco Valley, Mendoza $15.95 (568873) 13.0% alcohol
Aromas of briary berry and dark plum on the nose lead to a medium-bodied, silky-smooth wash of black currant and blueberry adorned with spice, espresso roast and wisps of savory herbs on the palate. Perceptible tannin builds on the finish and aftertaste and can be ameliorated with a three-hour aeration/decant before serving or opt for a further three years of careful cellaring. Pour alongside burgers, beef fajitas or grilled lamb chops. (Vic Harradine)

89drink or cellar
Familia Cassone ‘Obra Prima - Reserva’ Malbec 2014
Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza $19.95 (574517) 14.0% alcohol
Fruit sourced for this Reserva malbec was hand-picked and matured 12 months in French oak barrel. Wood smoke, dark berry fruit and mixed spice aromas precede a medium-bodied, generously textured gusher of black plum, sweet vanilla and spice-infused dark cherry flavours on the palate. It’s underpinned by a firm tannin structure and an excellent lick of excellent tang. Aerate/decant a couple of hours pouring with grilled and well-seasoned rib-eye steak. (Vic Harradine)

88drink or cellar
Zuccardi ‘Serie A’ Bonarda 2016
Santa Rosa, Mendoza $16.95 (355560) 13.0% alcohol
Muted aromas of spice and berry fruit introduce a solid line of crunchy red fruit—pie cherry, currant and passionfruit—along with a tang-laden finish decorated with mineral notes that follow. This is medium-plus bodied and nicely textured. Pour with pasta in tomato sauce. (Vic Harradine)

Chile Red Wine

93cellar
Montes ‘Purple Angel’ 2015
DO Colchagua Valley $62.95 (62364) 15.0% alcohol
This is exceptional even for this vaunted wine; you’ll find depth, structure, balance, fruit-fueled flavour, firm tannin, excellent acidity and a welcomed absence of green leafy notes. Bramble berry, blueberry and baking spice provide segue for a full-Monty gusher of palate-coating flavour with black currant and juicy black plum interlaced with espresso roast and bittersweet chocolate. It spent 18 months in new French oak. There’s good balancing acidity and supple tannin requiring attention; pop corks after careful cellaring 2021 to 2023. (Vic Harradine)

Australia: White Wine

92drink or cellar
Ladies Who Shoot Their Lunch ‘Wild Ferment’ Chardonnay 2017
Strathbogie Ranges, Victoria $34.95 (298380) 13.2% alcohol
Buttered toast, baking spice and pear/apple aromas set the table for a smorgasbord of flavour blanketing the palate with white peach, racy lemon acidity, yellow plum and ripe pear among them. This was 70% matured in old oak barrel for 9 months with the balance in new French oak for 12 months adding character and wisps of vanilla and nutty notes. It’s medium-plus bodied with creamy texture and a lengthy finish of oaky notes. Very good now, even better after another year or two in bottle. Roast pork or roast chicken pours well with this. (Vic Harradine)

Australia: Red Wine

• Fruit for the following 2014 Elderton ‘Command – Single-Vineyard’ Shiraz was hand-picked from vines certified as ‘Centenarian’—at least 100-years old—fermented in open-top concrete fermenters with hand pump-overs and cap submerging lasting eight days then finished with malolactic conversion and maturation for 30 months in new French and American 500 L barrels, aka puncheons.

96drink or cellar
Elderton ‘Command – Single-Vineyard’ Shiraz 2014
Barossa, South Australia $99.95 (716142) 14.5% alcohol
This is Elderton’s flagship wine; it’s elegant and impressive throughout… and absolutely delicious. Rich, luscious, gorgeously flavoured ambrosia flows over the palate—black currant and juicy black plum adorned with mocha, black licorice and wisps of charred toast and bittersweet chocolate. This is full bodied and generously textured with persistent purity of fruit, deft balance of acidity and fruit, oozing charm and elegance. The lengthy finish and aftertaste add to the wonderful experience. Aerate/decant for three hours before service. (Vic Harradine)

90drink or cellar Exceptional Value!
Sister’s Run ‘Epiphany’ Shiraz 2016
McLaren Vale, South Australia $16.95 (269464) 14.5% alcohol
Aromas of black raspberry and dark juicy cherry replay on the palate along with a generous tidal wave of flavour indicative of ripe mulberry mingling with mocha, mixed spice and racy tang from wisps of pie cherry. There’s good structure and interest from the soft ripe tannin on the lingering, luscious finish and aftertaste. Grilled rack of lamb, gourmet burgers or grilled steak are all ideal dance partners. Don’t be shy, pick up a few for popping corks now to at least 2023. (Vic Harradine)

87drink or cellar
Wakefield Cabernet Sauvignon 2016

Clare Valley $19.95 (744235) 14.0% alcohol

Ripe and uber-ripe dark fruit aromas—mulberry and black currant dominate the nose with hints of spice and espresso roast. It floods the palate with flavours of dark bittersweet chocolate and mint robed in black plum compote, blackberry jam and sweet kirsch liqueur. It finishes long and luscious with notions of cherry clafoutie and piquant spice. Pour with grilled back ribs slathered with spicy barbecue sauce. (Vic Harradine)

89drink or cellar
Wirra Wirra ‘Catapult’ Shiraz 2016
McLaren Vale, South Australia $19.95 (278564) 14.5% alcohol
This is from one of McLaren Vale’s premium producers at an attractive price. Highly perfumed aromas of charred toast, exotic spice and dark cherry/berry fruit open the curtain for a stage full of actors with a rich mouthful of flavour taking its cue from crunchy, red pie cherry and ripe juicy black currant decorated with mocha and grilled savory herbs. This is full bodied, fully textured and approachable now after a three-hour aeration decant and on to 2026. (Vic Harradine)

New Zealand: White Wine

91drink now
Greywacke Sauvignon Blanc 2017
Marlborough, South Island $24.95 (164228) 13.0% alcohol
A hi-toned nose of zesty citrus, grassy notes and tropical fruit hustles from the glass of this medium-weight, nicely textured, well-balanced beauty. It blankets the palate with a profusion of palate flavours—peppery spice, gooseberry jelly and oodles of racy lemon curd. The finish replays palate flavours morphing into a clean, mouth-watering and likeable aftertaste. Pour alongside pan-seared halibut under a generous squeeze of fresh lemon. (Vic Harradine)

France: White Wine

88drink now
Joseph Cattin Gewürztraminer 2016
AOC Alsace $17.95 (224626) 13.5% alcohol
Aromas of rosewater, honeyed notes and mandarin orange herald a light-on-its-feet wash of lychee fruit, tropical fruit, honey and lemon drop candy. This is long on residual sugar and a tad short on acidity and its mid-length finish. Give this a go with fruit flan. (Vic Harradine)

93drink or cellar
Château de Maligny ‘L’homme Mort’ Chablis 1er Cru 2016
AOP Chablis $47.95 (556498) 12.5% alcohol
Mineral notes and racy citrus aromas give way to a stream of lemon zest, yellow peach and passionfruit interwoven with minerality and crisp green apple on the back palate and finish. This is classic chardonnay from 1er Cru Chablis with a bit more flavour and texture to go with its lively pizzazz and charm. Pour with freshly shucked briny oysters or prawn ceviche. (Vic Harradine)

90drink or cellar
Jean-Max Roger ‘Cuvée Marnes et Caillottes’ Sancerre 2016
AOC Loire Valley $30.95 (196667) 12.5% alcohol
A sharply perfumed nose of citrus, sprigs of savory herbs and peppery spice aromas precede a delicious gusher of gooseberry, racy lemon and mouth-watering tang streaking across the palate with great èlan. This is crisp and refreshing with persistent tang through the lip-smacking finish and aftertaste. Pour alongside grilled calamari, pan-seared fish or clam chowder. (Vic Harradine)

• The following delightful white wine, 2017 La Griffe Bernard Chéreau ‘Sur Lie’ Muscadet Sèvre et Maine, was sourced from a little-recognized grape – even though it’s the only grape grown in Muscadet Sèvre et Maine – melon de Bourgogne.

90drink now Exceptional Value!
La Griffe Bernard Chéreau ‘Sur Lie’ Muscadet Sèvre et Maine 2017
AOP Muscadet Sèvre et Maine $17.95 (948182) 12.0% alcohol
Pear, apple, floral and citrus aromas introduce a beautifully balanced river of flavour brimming with ripe pear, white nectarine, and racy citrus galore. It’s creamy smooth, balanced on a pin and just plain delicious. It’s crisp and refreshing on its own and pairs easily with steamed mussels, crab cakes or fish tacos. White-wine lovers may want to pick up a few. (Vic Harradine)

France: Red Wine

93drink or cellar
Château Bel Air 2011

AOC Haut-Médoc $27.95 (416172) 13.5% alcohol

There are piquant spice and red berry fruit aromas on the nose introducing a delectable surge of ripe, sweet fruit—dark, juicy cherry and black, briary berry—interlaced with earthy notes, good tang and soft tannin. This is well balanced with good depth and firm structure. Aerate/decant for two hours pouring with roast beef, Yorkshire pudding and root veggies done around the roast. (Vic Harradine)

89drink or cellar
Gérard Bertrand ‘Grand Terroir – La Clape’ Syrah/Carignan/Mourvèdre 2015

AOC La Clape, France $18.95 (370262) 14.0% alcohol 

Fresh, intense and lively aromas of piquant spice, minerality and dark berry fruit abound. A rich flow of crunchy red fruit—currant and cherry—hustles across the palate infused with excellent tangy acidity and wisps of soft, supple tannin. This is medium bodied with good texture and a dry, lip-smacking finish and aftertaste. Pour alongside pasta in tomato sauce or spaghetti in Bolognese sauce. (Vic Harradine)

91drink or cellar
Roche de Bellene ‘Cuvée Reserve’ Bourgogne Pinot Noir 2016
AOC Bourgogne $22.95 (299859) 12.0 % alcohol
Aromas of spice and red berry fruit—currant and cranberry—show the way to a flavour-fueled, medium-bodied, nicely textured wash of sweet-tinged briary berry and red cherry intertwined with excellent tang and acidity on the palate. This is attractively priced very nicely balanced throughout and retains a dry, clean, lengthy finish and aftertaste. Pour with smoked duck or coq au vin. (Vic Harradine)

90drink or cellar
Domaine les Grands Bois ‘Cuvée Philippine Sainte-Cécile’ Côtes du Rhône-Villages 2016
AOP Côtes du Rhône-Villages $20.95 (286344) 14.5% alcohol
This value-laden grenache/syrah blend dishes up aromas of spiced dark berry fruit preceding a lively tang and tannin-influenced, full-bore flow of ripe black fruit—raspberry, currant and cherry—mingling with tarry notes, fennel and espresso roast. It’s full bodied and fully textured and deserves a two-hour aeration/decant before serving. Pour with a thick cut of beef tenderloin or striploin, well-seasoned and grilled medium rare. (Vic Harradine)

91drink or cellar
Gabriel Meffre ‘Sainte-Catherine’ Gigondas 2015
AOP Gigondas $32.95 (370270) 14.5% alcohol
This is a delightful blend of 55% grenache/35% syrah/10% carignan. Lively red and dark cherry aromas abound prior to a rich, luscious river of red plum and dark berry fruit blanketing the palate decorated with mocha and earthy notes. It’s medium-plus bodied and silky smooth with a long balanced finish of sweet-tinged berry fruit and excellent acidity. Give this a go with meat lasagna or gourmet grilled sausage. (Vic Harradine)

Italy: Red Wine

90drink or cellar
Parusso ‘Piani Noce’ Dolcetto D’Alba 2016
DOC Piemonte $20.95 (232504) 13.0% alcohol
Fruit was hand-harvested, wild-yeast fermented and saw only stainless steel, no oak. Red berry fruit aromas precede red and black currant flavours that coat the palate adorned with racy tang and sweet-tinged black Bing cherry. The medium-length finish is balanced and fruit-filled along with excellent tang and acidity. Pour with pasta in tomato sauce, red pizza or veal Marsala.

• The following 2013 Réva Barolo was sourced from a 3 Ha plot; 100% nebbiolo grapes were hand harvested, indigenous-yeast fermented over one month in stainless steel then 80% of fruit underwent malolactic conversion in used oak and further 24 months maturation in oak barrel.

91drink or cellar
Réva Barolo 2013
DOCG Barolo $59.95 (490045) 14.0% alcohol
Wood smoke and piquant spice dominate the aromas along with whiffs of pipe tobacco and floral notes. This medium-bodied and well textured with palate flavours of red berry fruit and tang wrapping itself around exotic spice and soft supple tannin. This showcases persistent purity of fruit, plenty of tang on palate, polished tannin, lingering finish and a long life; pop corks now to 2038. (Vic Harradine)

89drink now
Carpineto ‘Riserva’ Chianti Classico 2013
DOCG Chianti Classico $29.95 (47118) 13.5% alcohol
Berry fruit and savory herb aromas burst from the glass of this medium-weight tang-laden sangiovese-predominant blend. A lively, racy line of pie cherry and red currant streak across the palate underpinned by still-evolving tannin and hints of black licorice. It finishes with replays of racy, lip-smacking acidity. Pour with spaghetti Bolognese or pasta puttanesca after a two-hour aeration/decant. (Vic Harradine)

89drink or cellar
Ricasoli Brolio Chianti Classico 2015

DOCG Chianti Classico $23.95 (3962) 13.5% alcohol

Charred toast and tobacco leaf aromas open easily in the glass followed by a lively, juicy wash of racy red fruit—plum, currant and cranberry—bathing the palate robed in piquant spice, sprigs of herbs and oodles of tang. This is medium-bodied and satin smooth with wisps of soft tannin on the finish and aftertaste, easily ameliorated with a two-hour aeration/decant. Pour with meat lasagna or pastitsio. (Vic Harradine)

88drink or cellar
San Vincenti Chianti Classico 2015
DOCG Chianti Classico $18.95 (399907) 14.5% alcohol
Baking spice and red cherry/berry fruit provide entry to a flow of racy, crunchy red fruit—currant, cherry and passionfruit—persisting on the palate and replaying on the finish. It’s medium bodied with good mouthfeel, structure and lingering aftertaste laced with perceptible tannin. Pour after a three-hour aeration decant with a pasta in tomato sauce dish. (Vic Harradine)

95cellar
Tenuta Sette Ponti ‘Oreno’ 2016
IGT Toscana $86.95 (735597) 15.0% alcohol
A most-affordable Super Tuscan, this vintage is worth every dollar. It’s a blend of 50% merlot/40% cabernet sauvignon/10% petit verdot. Purple-black hued, it wafts easily from the glass with aromas of baking spice, berry fruit and underbrush. A dense and intense, full-bodied river of sweet-tinged black fruit—raspberry, juicy cherry and currant—coats the palate underpinned by bold tannin and excellent acidity. The monumentally long aftertaste is a harbinger of what lies ahead—it requires careful cellaring now to 2023. (Vic Harradine)

92drink or cellar
Brigaldara ‘Cavolo’ Amarone Della Valpolicella 2013
DOCG Amarone Della Valpolicella $46.95 (568766) 16.0% alcohol
This top-notch Amarone is a blend of 55% corvinone, 25% corvina, 20% rondinella.
It delivers piquant spice, dark berry fruit and oaky aromas providing segue to a complex, sweet-infused, full-bore wash of black currant, kirsch liqueur and cassis flavours on the palate. This finish is lengthy, balanced and fruit-filled with a tangy bite on the aftertaste; it’s absolutely delicious. (Vic Harradine)

92drink or cellar
Masi ‘Costasera’ Riserva Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2012

DOCG Amarone della Valpolicella $69.95 (324137) 15.5% alcohol

The nose is bold and expressive displaying dried fruit, dark chocolate, anise and caramel notes interwoven with ripe plum and cherry aromas. The rich, luscious palate is blanketed with flavours of figs, prunes, kirsch liqueur, baking spice and vanilla. Dry, full bodied with moderating acidity, it finishes with a long, sweet, warming aftertaste. Enjoy with a braised venison stew. (Lisa Isabelle)

Spain: Red Wine

88drink now
Alceño ‘Premium 50 Barricas’ Syrah 2015
DO Jumilla $16.95 (398933) 14.0% alcohol
This is quite good value; it’s a red blend of 85% syrah/15% monastrell matured for a brief time in new French and American oak barrels… presumably 50 barrels. Sweet, ripe black fruit dominates the palate—currant, plum and cherry—mingling with mixed spice and vanilla. It’s medium-plus bodied and creamy smooth with a finish and aftertaste that’s fruit-filled and enjoyable. Give this a go with grilled and smoked back ribs mopped with spicy barbecue sauce. (Vic Harradine)

90drink or cellar Exceptional Value!
Luis Cañas Crianza 2015
DOCa Rioja $18.95 (336719) 14.0% alcohol
Floral notes and red cherry aromas open the door to a nicely balanced, full-bodied stream of palate-coating flavour with pie cherry, cassis, mixed spice and savory herbs to the fore. This is medium bodied with good mouthfeel and a balanced, fruit-forward finish and aftertaste. It’s a crowd-pleasing red at an attractive price, it’ll also pair well with chicken, beef, pork and fowl. What’s not to like? (Vic Harradine)

87drink now
Bodegas Tarón ‘Reserva’ 2008
DOCa Rioja $22.95 (246728) 13.5% alcohol
This is a well-aged, smooth and mellow blend of hand-harvested fruit—90% tempranillo/10% mazuelo—matured 14 months in new American oak and a further 5 years in bottle before release. Grilled savory herbs and cherry/berry fruit aromas release easily from this mid-weight, nicely textured red. It rolls smoothly over the palate boasting flavourful fruit and savory herbs with drying tannin appearing on the finish. Aerate/decant three hours before service or pop corks 2021. (Vic Harradine)

New in the LCBO

• You’ll receive 5 bonus AirMiles for each bottle purchased of the following 2017 Jean Claude Mas ‘Les Tannes en Occitanie’ Merlot from October 14 to November 10. Following this promotion, you’ll receive $2.00 off the price shown below for each bottle purchased from December 2 to January 5, 2019—worth noting in your calendar

88drink now Exceptional Value!
Jean Claude Mas ‘Les Tannes en Occitanie’ Merlot 2017
IGP Pays d’Oc, France $12.95 (582783) 13.5% alcohol
Wood smoke and dark berry fruit aromas open up this crowd-friendly, fruit-filled merlot. Rich, smooth mouthfuls of ripe dark fruit—black plum and dark cherry—mingle with excellent juicy tang and interesting spice. This has good weight and textured mouth feel, punching well above its attractive price. It finishes fruity, balanced and tasty with hints of chocolate chips. (Vic Harradine)

• The following 2017 Domaine de Sérame Cabernet Sauvignon is $2.00 off the price shown below from November 11 to December 1, also worth noting in your calendar.

86drink now
Domaine de Sérame Cabernet Sauvignon 2017
IGP Pays d’Oc, France $13.95 (617225) 14.0% alcohol
This wine is certified organic and from one of the oldest organic wine estates in France. Savory herbs and charred toast aromas introduce a tang-laden stream of crunchy red fruit—cherry and currant—with herbal leafy notes on the light-medium palate. This is an easy-going red with a lip-smacking, dry finish. Pour alongside red pizza, mac and cheese or pasta in tomato sauce. (Vic Harradine)

Cheers, Vic, Lisa, Louise, Dave