September 24, 2018 Newsletter
Newsletter Highlights include:
- Exceptional-value wine – 6 from a total of 47 wines in this newsletter that are available September 29 at LCBO retail meet strict quality-price guidelines. They’re all found in the following Vintages Release. The wines range from $14.95 to $18.95 and are found throughout the newsletter easily identified via the exceptional-value checkmark above. Strict guidelines? Click here.
- 95 and over – one wine scored 95 points and over: Bollinger ‘Special Cuvée Brut’ Champagne Non-Vintage 750 mL at $86.95 earned 96 points found under Champagne.
- Dave’s Delights – Beni di Batasiolo Riserva Barolo 2008 earned 92 points at $39.95 found under Italy: Red Wine; Cantine di Ora Ripasso Valpolicella Superiore 2016 earned 91 points at $23.95 found under Italy: Red Wine; La Rioja Alta Viña Ardanza Reserva 2008 earned 94 points at $47.95 found under Spain: Red Wine and, of course, all his reviews of exceptional-value wines.
- Vic Picks – 2027 ‘Falls Vineyard’ Riesling 2016 earned 91 points at $18.95 found under Ontario: White Wine; Kendall-Jackson ‘Vintner’s Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2014 earned 93 points at $27.95 found under California: Red Wine; Seresin ‘Momo’ Pinot Noir 2016 earned 90 points at $19.95 found under New Zealand: Red Wine and, of course, all his reviews of exceptional-value wines.
Identify the LCBO store nearest you with stock of any wine with an LCBO product number by clicking on the number shown in brackets in wine reviews then clicking on ‘Select Stores’ and entering your postal code—the number of bottles available in stores near you is displayed as well as online—or by clicking ‘Check all stores’ where you’ll see stock available in all LCBO stores. For Vintages Release wines, stock should be displayed the Friday before a Saturday release, updated every 24 hours, some stores post earlier. LCBO Portfolio wines (wine not in Vintages) should always closely reflect stock in stores, updated every 24 hours. However, it’s always best to phone the store before making a trip.
September 29, 2018 Vintages Release
Champagne
• There’s an argument to be made that Bollinger is ‘the’ top, or one of the top, Champagne houses and the following Non-Vintage Bollinger ‘Special Cuvée Brut’ certainly lends a good deal of support for top spot. It’s a blend of 60% pinot noir/25% chardonnay/15% pinot meunier with over 85% of grapes sourced from Premier Cru and Grand Cru-rated sites with a generous amount of barrel-age and the inclusion of reserve wines. The magnum (1500 mL) will cellar considerably longer than the 750 mL bottle with those wishing to cellar this seeking it , hence the seemingly over-priced magnum.
96
Bollinger ‘Special Cuvée Brut’ Champagne Non-Vintage
AOC Champagne $86.95 (384529) + 1500 mL $186.95 (490482) 12.0% alcohol
A profusion of mousse fills the glass with lines of fine-bead pearls winding upward, seemingly forever, in the glass. Alluring aromas of leesy/mineral notes, strawberry, baked apple and biscuit introduce a gorgeous array of invigorating, sweet and tang flavours caressing the palate with creamy-smooth texture, lemon curd, nutty notes and poached pear. This is crisp, refreshing, balanced and bountiful on the finish. My highest compliment; it required the utmost discipline to spit. (Vic Harradine)
Icewine
89
Pondview ‘Gold Series’ Vidal Icewine 2015
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 200 mL (390351) 10.5% alcohol
This is pale-gold in colour with aromas of clover, apricot, and apple pie. It's full bodied and syrupy sweet with flavours of dried apricot and apple, trailing off to a fruit-forward finish. Pour a couple of glasses to sip then use this as an ingredient in the winery's own Vidal Icewine Apple Chutney recipe. (Dave Isaacs)
Ontario: White Wine
91
2027 ‘Falls Vineyard’ Riesling 2016
VQA Vinemount Ridge, Niagara Peninsula $18.95 (294041) 10.0% alcohol
Aromas of sharp spice, racy lime and ripe pear billow from this just-barely yellow-hued, single-vineyard riesling. It explodes on the palate with a gusher of sweet-tinged lime cordial and crisp green apple framed by electrifying tang and acidity. The dry, mouth-watering, lip-smacking finish lingers luxuriously. This sips well on its own and truly shines served with a baguette and charcuterie board. (Vic Harradine)
• A 23-acre vineyard in the VQA Twenty-Mile Bench appellation with no desire to expand in order to maintain its artisan winemaking character, Featherstone has been a pioneer in several aspects of their natural farming approach — eco-friendly practices, falconry and sheep labour, to name a few. Their innovative spirit led them in 2002 to make a prescient decision to produce a wine that was barrel fermented and aged in Canadian oak sourced locally from Brantford, Ontario. One result is the following 2016 Featherstone Canadian Oak Chardonnay—a superb Canadian gem.
91
Featherstone ‘Canadian Oak’ Chardonnay 2016
VQA Niagara Peninsula $21.95 (149302) 13.0% alcohol
This medium-gold robed 100% chardonnay showcases delicate ripe pear, peach, vanilla and a touch of fresh citrus aromas on the nose. It’s even better on the palate with an ample and round mouthfeel combining well-merged acidity with rich orchard fruit flavours for a medium-length peachy-vanilla-buttery, über-delicious finish. A good-value, genuine Canadian gem to enjoy now with chicken à la King. (Louise Boutin)
91
Flat Rock Riesling 2016
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $17.95 (43281) 9.5% alcohol
The very pale-gold appearance of this wine belies the fascinating nose of herbs, peach and pear with wisps of petrol aromas. It’s medium bodied and slightly off dry with flavours of pear and peach accompanied by a delightfully lemon tang. The lemon hangs on through the finish, making the entire tasting experience crisp and refreshing. This will go very nicely with a plate of spicy pad Thai drizzled with lime juice. (Dave Isaacs)
Ontario: Rosé Wine
88
Flat Rock ‘Pink Twisted’ Rosé 2017
VQA Niagara Peninsula $18.95 (39974) 12.5% alcohol
A perfumed bouquet opens this blend of pinot noir, gewürztraminer and riesling with aromas of gardenia, peony, orchard fruit and citrus. Medium-light bodied and slightly off-dry, the palate is crisp and juicy in texture, offering ripe strawberry, peach and lemon flavours. It finishes with a mid-length, mouth-watering citrus tang and calls for fresh spring rolls with a spicy chili sauce. (Lisa Isabelle)
87
Wildass Rosé 2017
VQA Niagara Peninsula $18.95 (71712) 12.3% alcohol
Grassy notes, piquant spice and nettle aromas on the nose all point to sauvignon blanc and the blend in this dry, refreshing gem is—sauvignon blanc, riesling, tempranillo and cabernet franc. It streaks over the palate with a bracing line of tang with ruby red grapefruit and lime zest to the fore. It’s medium weight with good mouthfeel and a dry, crisp and refreshing finish and aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)
Okanagan Valley: Red Wine
90
Burrowing Owl ‘Estate Bottled’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2015
VQA Okanagan Valley $33.95 (73098) 14.0% alcohol
A perfumed nose of dark berry fruit, baking spice and mocha aromas precedes a nicely balanced wash of sweet fruit—black currant and dark Bing cherry—and racy tang borne on a line of passionfruit and red currant flavour decorated with mixed spice and toasted oak notes. It finishes lengthy, structured and mouth-watering good. Aerate/decant for two hours serving with grilled striploin and Portobello mushroom strips. (Vic Harradine)
California: Red Wine
92
Francis Ford Coppola ‘Diamond Collection - Red Label’ Zinfandel 2016
California $22.95 (708289) 13.5% alcohol
This is well priced and a very tasty drop, indeed. Delicate aromas of red berry fruit and cherry lead to a wonderful array of palate flavours with red cherry, milk chocolate, sweet vanilla and toasty notes dominant. It finishes lengthy with palate-flavour replays. This is medium weight, balanced on a pin, creamy smooth, bursting with flavour and delicious to sip or to pour with grilled ribs mopped with spicy barbecue sauce. (Vic Harradine)
90
Freemark Abbey Merlot 2014
Napa Valley $44.95 (1602) 14.5% alcohol
This is dark purple, almost opaque, with aromas of sprigs of mixed herbs and lively red cherry. A full-bodied, fully textured tsunami wave of tannin-laced flavour blankets the palate with flavours of briary fruit interwoven with tangy acidity, charred toast savoury herbs and baking spice. The finish is lengthy with perceptible notes of still-evolving tannin. Cellar carefully, opening 2020 and beyond. (Vic Harradine)
93
Kendall-Jackson ‘Vintner’s Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2014
Sonoma County $27.95 (331603) 13.5% alcohol
Charred toast and black currant aromas precede rich, complex and balanced waves of cassis, bramble berry and dark cherry interlaced with fresh mint, savory herbs and oodles of juicy tang. This showcases persistent purity of fruit with good depth, balance and complexity. It finishes with rich fruit and juicy, tangy replays. (Vic Harradine)
Washington State: White Wine
90
Chateau Ste. Michelle Riesling 2016
Columbia Valley $16.95 (685651) 12.0% alcohol
Hi-toned, alluring aromas of lime zest and floral notes provide segue to a racy, mouth-watering stream of lemon-lime cordial and mineral notes. This has good body and texture along with a nicely presented sweet and tang finish and aftertaste. It’s barely off-dry, well paced, well priced and well… delicious. Pour alongside mussels steamed in white wine, garlic and shredded leeks or a simple appetizer of grilled calamari. (Vic Harradine)
Washington State: Rosé Wine
89
Charles Smith ‘Vino’ Sangiovese Rosé 2017
Washington State $17.95 (468652) 12.0% alcohol
Red berry fruit and peppery spice aromas abound on the nose of this value-packed, light-medium bodied lively Rosé. It offers a bracing line of tang on the palate carried along on flavours of red grapefruit and racy cranberry. It finishes dry, refreshing and lip-smacking good. Pour with a charcuterie board or three-cheese white pizza sprinkled with olive-oiled arugula or a Niçoise salad. (Vic Harradine)
Chile: White Wine
89
Casas Del Bosque ‘Reserva’ Chardonnay 2016
DO Casablanca Valley $15.95 (590760) 14.0% alcohol
Aromas of toasty oak, mixed spice and wisps of flinty minerality introduce a sharp line of citrus—lime, lemon curd and white grapefruit—bolting across the palate, reverberating through the refreshing finish. It finishes in a blaze with great élan. This pairs particularly well with sushi or pan-seared seafood—prawns, scallops, fish.
Chile: Red Wine
90
Pérez Cruz ‘Limited Edition’ Carmenère 2016
Maipo Valley $20.95 (670539) 13.5% alcohol
This is the flagship red wine of Pérez Cruz. Grilled savory herbs, vegetal notes and floral aromas foreshadow a creamy-smooth mouthful of ripe, dark berry fruit laced with mouth-watering tang bathing the palate decorated with earthy/forest floor notes. This is medium-plus bodied with a lingering finish. Aerate/decant for a couple of hours pouring with gourmet sausage or beef fajitas. (Vic Harradine)
90
William Fèvre ‘Espino - Gran Cuvée’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2014
Maipo Valley $24.95 (444430) 14.2% alcohol
This red blend—87% cabernet sauvignon/13% cabernet franc—showcases persistent purity of fruit, good balance and structure with plenty of pizzazz. A tang-laden, fruit-filled stream of juicy red cherry/berry fruit, dark chocolate and grilled savory herbs blanket the palate while replays of the crunchy red fruit dominate the mouth-watering finish along with green herbal notes on the aftertaste. Aerate/decant two hours and serve with a fine cut of grilled beef tenderloin. (Vic Harradine)
Australia Red Wine
• The following 2015 Grant Burge ‘Filsell – Old Vines’ Shiraz is a single-vineyard red sourced from 95-year-old vines, fermented with both wild and commercial yeast then matured 20 months in French and American oak.
93
Grant Burge ‘Filsell – Old Vines’ Shiraz 2015
Barossa Valley, South Australia $39.95 (93955) 14.0% alcohol
A perfumed nose of liquorice, earthy and baking spice aromas presage a rich, bountiful mouthful of concentrated flavour with black juicy plum and dark cherry interlaced with sweet vanilla and mocha. It’s full-bodied and fully fruited with good structure and a long delicious finish. It’s good to go now after a two-hour aeration/decant and with careful cellaring on to 2030. (Vic Harradine)
90
Robert Oatley ‘Signature Series’ GSM 2016
McLaren Vale, South Australia $19.95 (489658) 14.0% alcohol
Lifted aromas of lively red and dark berry fruit mingle with spice and savory herbs on the nose of this medium-full bodied, nicely textured red. A generous flow of balanced flavours flow over the palate—pie cherry, bramble berry and black plum—intertwined with piquant spice and espresso roast with a supple tannin underpinning. The finish and aftertaste linger and are dry and mouth-watering good. Serve with grilled rack of lamb and roasted root veggies. (Vic Harradine)
91
Wits End ‘Luna’ Shiraz 2016
McLaren Vale, South Australia $17.95 (311258) 14.0% alcohol
This is developing a following as each vintage cements its reputation as delivering value and great taste. Savory herbs and dark ripe fruit aromas—plum, bramble berry and cherry—herald smooth and mellow mouthfuls of juicy tang and oodles of flavour with pie cherry and ripe black currant melding with an underpinning of soft, ripe tannin. This is mid-full weight and nicely textured with good balance and charm. It’s good to go now after a two-hour aeration/decant and served with well-seasoned, grilled medium-rare striploin. (Vic Harradine)
New Zealand: White Wine
91
Borthwick Vineyard ‘Paddy Borthwick’ Sauvignon Blanc 2017
Wairarapa, North Island $19.95 (361220) 13.0% alcohol
Sharp, piquant aromas of grassy notes, spice and citrus aromas make way for racy, linear flavours of lemon, white grapefruit and lime streaking across the palate that softens on the finish while the aftertaste delivers a fresh, lip-smacking quality that’s balanced and charming. Give this a go with clam chowder or fish taco. (Vic Harradine)
87
Kim Crawford Pinot Gris 2017
Marlborough, South Island $19.95 (369850) 13.0% alcohol
This more recent addition to a popular New Zealand brand’s portfolio is proposed in a discrete aromatic version—pear, citrus, honeysuckle and nutmeg. This is medium-bodied, coating the palate with flavours of ripe pear, pink grapefruit, honey and ginger teasing the tip of the tongue on the lingering warm and spicy finish. This is a good partner to your Asian-inspired recipes. (Louise Boutin)
New Zealand: Red Wine
• The following 2016 Seresin ‘Momo’ Pinot Noir was hand-harvested from organically grown fruit—suitable for vegetarians and vegans—whole-bunch pressed then fermented with wild yeast in seasoned French oak barrel and left to mature 12 months before blending and only lightly filtered—not fined—before bottling.
90
Seresin ‘Momo’ Pinot Noir 2016
Marlborough, South Island $19.95 (163972) 13.5% alcohol
This is very good value featuring good balance, purity of fruit and a lengthy, luscious finish and aftertaste. Grilled savory herbs and spice aromas waft easily from this medium-bodied pinot. Rich, ripe dark fruit flavours coat the palate with raspberry, cherry and currant dominant adorned with savory herbs and mixed spice. It finishes lengthy with good fruit flavour, excellent acidity and balance. Pour with roast chicken or smoked duck breasts. (Vic Harradine)
France: White Wine
91
Domaines Schlumberger ‘Kessler’ Riesling 2015
AOC Alsace Grand Cru $29.95 (61176) 14.0% alcohol
This marvelous riesling appears bright golden yellow with a slight tinge of green. The nose is crisp with aromas of peach and pear laid on top of beeswax and a refreshing minerality. It’s full-bodied with just a hint of perceived sweetness balanced by mouth-watering acidity. The flavours of pear and mineral linger nicely on the tongue. This will undergo a fascinating evolution over the next 7 or 8 years, but if you want to enjoy it today, pair it with some peach-glazed salmon fillets. (Dave Isaacs)
90
Domaine de Riaux Pouilly-Fumé 2016
AOC Pouilly-Fumé $27.95 (200063) 13.0% alcohol
Located across the Loire River from Sancerre, Pouilly-Fumé is known for producing sauvignon blanc with mineral and smoky characteristics derived from the limestone and flint soils of the area. This wine has a strong mineral nose, layered atop aromas of cut grass, canned vegetables and hints of grapefruit peel. It’s medium bodied and refreshingly clean on the palate with flavours of peach, lemon/lime and granny smith apples. The finish is long, with a nice balance of acidity. This will keep in the cellar for a few years and is drinking amazingly well now. Pair with lemon-herbed chicken. (Dave Isaacs)
88
Chapoutier ‘Les Vignes de Bila-Haut’ Côtes du Roussillon Blanc 2016
AOC Côtes du Roussillon $15.95 (485656) 13.5% alcohol
This white blend—69% grenache, 20% macabeo with bits of marsanne and vermentino—is pale gold almost clear in colour. This subtle appearance is contradicted by a vibrant nose of pear with citrus highlights. It’s medium-full bodied on the palate with flavours of pear following from the nose. There’s an excellent splash of acidity making this an easy wine to sip while preparing pork chops and applesauce. (Dave Isaacs)
France: Red Wine
93
Château Bel Air 2011
AOC Haut-Médoc $26.95 (416712) 13.5% alcohol
There are piquant spice and red berry fruit aromas on the nose introducing a delectable surge of ripe, sweet fruit—dark, juicy cherry and black, briary berry—interlaced with earthy notes, good tang and soft tannin. This is well balanced with good depth and firm structure. Aerate/decant for two hours pouring with roast beef, Yorkshire pudding and root veggies done around the roast. (Vic Harradine)
89
Château Plaisance 2006
AOC Bordeaux Supérieur $20.95 (404285) 13.0% alcohol
This is quite a treat. It shows its age in the opaque, brick-brown colour and the well-evolved aromas of old wood, dried fruit and jam. It’s wonderfully smooth on the palate with a great balance acidity and delicious flavours of cherry and blueberry. There are still some tannins kicking around, but they’re smooth and refined. It’s not often a Bordeaux of this age, price, and quality is offered. Drink this soon, decanted an hour, to enjoy in its prime. (Dave Isaacs)
90
Gérard Bertrand Saint Chinian Syrah/Mourvèdre 2015
AOC Saint-Chinian $16.95 (370247) 14.0% alcohol
This lovely red blend is dark cherry red, almost opaque. There are wonderful aromas of oak, cherry, dried herbs and spices wafting from the glass. It’s medium-full bodied accompanied by smooth tannins, just the right amount of acidity and flavours of vanilla, mocha and freshly ground black pepper. It’s all topped off with a wonderfully balanced finish. This is drinking nicely now and should continue to do so, to 2022. Enjoy with grilled pepper steak. (Dave Isaacs)
89
Château des Roques ‘Cuvée du Château’ Vacqueyras 2013
AOC Vacqueyras $25.95 (352039) 14.0% alcohol
This fine example of a Vacqueyras red is a blend of 70% grenache, 15% mourvèdre and 15% syrah. It’s medium-red hued and just beginning to show orange around the edges. On the nose there are aromas of damp soil, mushroom, cherry, and mint. It’s full bodied on the palate with dominant flavours of sour cherry and plenty of well-integrated tannins. The sour cherry flavours linger nicely in the finish. This will pair very nicely with roast rack of lamb. (Dave Isaacs)
89
Xavier Vignon Côtes du Rhône 2016
AOC Côtes du Rhône $17.95 (297317) 14.5% alcohol
There’s lots going on in the nose with aromas of spice, moss, smoke and dried fruit. It’s medium-full bodied with lively balance of acid, nicely integrated tannins and flavours of cherry jam with mint. It all wraps up with a pleasant lingering tang-infused finish. This is expressive enough to enjoy all by itself, but priced well enough to enjoy with a weeknight meal of beef burgers or meat-lovers pizza. (Dave Isaacs)
86
Ferraton ‘La Tournée’ 2016
Product of France $13.95 (561282) 13.5% alcohol
This syrah/grenache blend hails from the south of France. Aromas of gamy and vegetal notes join grilled savory herbs preceding an extracted, concentrated river of stewed prunes, plum compote and aromatic bitters coating the palate infusing the finish. This is medium-weight and well textured with replays of palate flavours dominating the aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)
France: Rosé Wine
88
Carte Noire Rosé 2017
AOP Côtes de Provence $18.95 (319384) 13.5% alcohol
This blend of 35% cinsault, 30% grenache, 20% mourvèdre and 15% syrah is a very pale pinky/peach colour and has a refreshingly floral nose reminiscent of a summer meadow. It’s cleansing on the palate with a good tang and flavours of strawberry. Although it’s a dry wine, there’s a perception of sweetness on the finish. A nice wine to serve with autumn or winter hors d'oeuvres, to remind you of summer. (Dave Isaacs)
87
Château de Berne 'Émotion’ 2017
AOP Côtes de Provence $16.95 (556183) 13.0% alcohol
A blend of 50% grenache noir, 25% cinsault, 25% syrah, this rosé appears pale-salmon hued in its glamorously shaped bottle. Notes of strawberry aromas on the nose replay as delicious flavour on the medium-bodied palate. There is the gentlest nip of tannins towards the finish. It’s perfect to sip on its own or to pour with a deli board. (Dave Isaacs)
89
Château des Bertrands ‘Réserve des Bertrands Élegance’ Rosé 2017
AOP Côtes de Provence $21.95 (557371) 12.5% alcohol
This is an elegant rosé that lives up to its name. The wine is very-pale peach-skin in colour and offers a floral nose dominated by clover with hints of plum in the background. It’s smooth and medium-bodied on the palate with a nice balance of acidity. There are fascinating hints of orange zest on the finish. Pleasant to simply sip on its own, it’ll also pair well with a marmalade-glazed fillet of salmon. (Dave Isaacs)
89
Domaine Maby ‘La Forcadière’ Tavel Rosé 2017
AOC Tavel $19.95 (701318) 14.0% alcohol
A blend of 60% grenache noir and 30% cinsault, with the balance comprised of 7 varieties including grenache blanc, syrah, and mourvèdre. The result is a lively rosé that’s medium pink with aromas of peach, strawberry and pear. It’s very refreshing on the palate sporting flavours of strawberry along with a lip-smacking finish. This will keep nicely in the cellar for a few years pairing nicely with a platter of cold cuts, cheese and fruit. (Dave Isaacs)
Italy: White Wine
88
Zenato Pinot Grigio 2017
IGT delle Venezie $16.95 (37648) 12.5% alcohol
This is pale-gold in colour and offers a nose of apple, lime, and grapefruit with a background aroma of wet stones. It’s medium bodied on the palate with good balance of acidity and flavours of grapefruit with hints of lemon zest. The long tart finish encourages you to take another sip. Pair with Spaghetti Carbonara. (Dave Isaacs)
Italy: Red Wine
92
Beni di Batasiolo Riserva Barolo 2008
DOCG Barolo $39.95 (330704) 15% alcohol
This bang-for-the-buck Barolo Riserva has spent 30 months in Slovenian oak casks. It’s medium-brick/brown in colour with aromas of fall leaves, dried fruit and cloves. The generous body supports a significant amount of tannins with perfect balance of acid and fruit gives an overall impression that’s smooth and refined. There are flavours of dried cherries, sage, rosemary and thyme lingering in a long and exceptionally enjoyable finish. This is drinking nicely now and will continue to evolve for at least another 5 years. Decant this and let it breathe while you prepare some herb-rubbed roast beef tenderloin. (Dave Isaacs)
89
Travaglini Gattinara 2014
DOCG Gattinara $31.95 (713354) 13.5% alcohol
This 100% nebbiolo was sourced from vines ranging from 12 to 45 years of age. It’s medium-red with an expressive nose of tobacco, mint, spice, raspberry and cocoa powder. This is medium bodied with a refreshing balance of acid, flavours of juicy plum and smooth tannins that seem diminished at first but grow in intensity toward the finish. Drink now after a two-hour aeration/decant or cellar until 2023. It will pair well with braised duck. (Dave Isaacs)
90
Feudo Maccari Saia Nero d'Avola 2015
DOC Sicilia $32.95 (128967) 14.0% alcohol
The grapes for this wine are cultivated using the ancient alberello cultivation technique—in which each vine is grown by itself as a bush—this was aged for 14 months in French oak barrels. The result is a dark, cherry-red gem with a complex nose of coffee, cherry, and blueberry underlined by dry minerality and notions of pencil shaving aromas. The palate is medium-full bodied with mouth-watering acidity and juicy flavours of cherry jam. There are significant tannins through to the finish making this an ideal candidate to lay down in the cellar for another 5 to 7 years. Or enjoy it today, after a three-hour aeration/decant along with a medium-rare cut of roast beef. (Dave Isaacs)
89
Castelli del Grevepesa ‘Clemente VII’ Chianti Classico 2015
DOCG Chianti Classico $18.95 (421388) 14.0% alcohol
The dark red colour of this wine is just beginning to show some tinges of orange around the edges. You’ll find intense aromas of moss, dark chocolate and cherry. It’s medium-full bodied, with deft balance of acidity on top of a foundation of evident but very approachable tannins. The blackberry flavours are highlighted with fascinating dry mineral notes. This is probably drinking at its best right now and can be enjoyed to 2020. Enjoy with spaghetti and meatballs. (Dave Isaacs)
89
Il Molino di Grace ‘Gratius’ 2010
IGT Toscana $49.95 (99143) 13.5% alcohol
This is predominantly sangiovese blended with small amounts of canaiolo and colorino spending 12 months in French oak. It’s dark brick/brown in colour with aromas of raisin, dried cherries and cloves on the nose showcasing flavours of raspberry and black tea on the palate. There are enough tannins to sustain this in your cellar for a few more years and can be enjoyed now along with hearty venison stew. (Dave Isaacs)
90
Poggiotondo Brunello di Montalcino 2013
DOCG Brunello di Montalcino $44.95 (276576) 14.0% alcohol
Medium red in colour, it has tinges of orange around the edges. There’s character on the nose with aromas of earth competing with fruity aromas of strawberry, raspberry and plum. It’s medium bodied with lovely smooth tannins and a refreshing balance of acidity that delivers flavours of cherry and raspberry through to the finish. It’s drinking wonderfully right now and can also mature in the cellar for another 3 to 4 years. Enjoy with Italian sausage roasted with tomatoes, red peppers and onions. (Dave Isaacs)
91
Cantine di Ora Ripasso Valpolicella Superiore 2016
DOC Valpolicella Superiore $23.95 (451666) 14.0% alcohol
This lovely Ripasso is dark red, almost opaque. The nose is a medley of cherry, plum and spice aromas, punctuated with whiffs of dry autumn leaves. It’s full-bodied on the palate with smooth and gentle tannins and a tangy balance that carries flavours of vanilla and cherry. The finish is long and pleasant. If grilling a medium-rare steak, this is a great wine to pair. (Dave Isaacs)
Italy: Rosé Wine
88
Masi ‘Rosa dei Masi’ 2017
IGT Rosato delle Venezie $15.95 (377267) 12.5% alcohol
This was made from the Refosco grape using a special technique—harvested grapes are dried for a few weeks on straw mats to concentrate the juices before pressing and fermentation. There are aromas of clover and red fruit on the nose. It’s crisp and refreshing on the palate with flavours of cherry and raspberry and an excellent balance of acidity. This’ll pair nicely with poached salmon and creamy pasta salad. (Dave Isaacs)
Romania: Red Wine
87
Crama Ceptura Astrum Cervi Fetească Neagră 2017
DOC-CMD Dealu Mare $14.95 (466466) 13.0% alcohol
Fetească Neagră, translates to ‘Black Maiden’ and is a widely planted grape in Romania that’s used to make a range of wine styles, from dry to sweet. This wine is dry and from the Dealu Mare region located about 100 km north-west of Bucharest. The wine is medium-red with aromas of cherry, raspberry, and freshly cut cedar. It’s relatively light bodied with wisps of smooth tannins, decent acidity and flavours of cherry and vanilla. The finish is mid-length and pleasantly juicy. This’ll pair nicely with roast duck. (Dave Isaacs)
Spain: Red Wine
89
Castaño ‘Colección’ 2014
DO Yecla $22.95 (34593) 14.0% alcohol
This dark-red blend—70% monastrell/30% cabernet sauvignon—was matured in a combination of French and American oak barrels. There are hints of moss on the nose with additional aromas of cherry, oak and cloves. It’s medium bodied on the palate with perceptible tannins and wonderful balance of acidity and flavours offering sour cherry and sweet vanilla. The finish is long and mouth-watering. Serve with roast lamb and root vegetables. (Dave Isaacs)
94
La Rioja Alta Viña Ardanza Reserva 2008
DOCa Rioja $47.95 (315531) 13.5% alcohol
This stunner is a blend of 80% tempranillo and 20% garnacha. It’s red-brick in colour, with an overall orange tinge. There are wonderful aromas of stewed meat, beef jerky and dried peaches. It’s full bodied and chewy on the palate with flavours of smoked bacon, cooked orange peel and spice. A crisp acidity carries a long and perfectly balanced finish. When tasting this wine, I could not bring myself to spit it out. Can be cellared for another 4 years or enjoyed today with bacon-wrapped roast beef tenderloin. (Dave Isaacs)
Cheers; Vic, Dave, Louise, Lisa