September 10, 2018 Newsletter
Newsletter Highlights include:
- Exceptional-value wine – 7 from a total of 52 wines in this newsletter that are available September 15 at LCBO retail meet strict quality-price guidelines. They’re all found in the following Vintages Release. The wines range from $12.95 to $18.95 and are found throughout the newsletter easily identified via the exceptional-value checkmark above. Strict guidelines? Click here.
- Finding Waldo – It’s rare to find a red grape with red juice and red pulp and if you do, most are blended sparingly to darken anaemic-looking red wines. There’s one wine below in which one of these rare grapes is a single-varietal red wine.
- 95 and over – no wine scored 95 points and over.
- Dave’s Delights – 2017 Michel Gassier ‘Le Pas du Moine Sainte-Victoire’ Rosé at $23.95 earned 90 points found under France: Rosé Wine; 2010 Château Moulin de Clotte at $19.95 earned 88 points found under France: Red Wine and 2010 Sobrero ‘Ciabot Tanasio’ Barolo at $54.95 earned 92 points found under Italy Red Wine and, of course, all his reviews of exceptional-value wines.
- Vic Picks – 2017 Wayne Gretzy ‘Whisky Oak Aged’ Red at $19.95 earned 92 points found under Ontario: Red Wine; 2017 Errázuriz ‘Aconcagua Costa’ Pinot Noir earned 92 points at $24.95 found under Chile: Red Wine and 2014 Xanadu ‘DJL’ Cabernet Sauvignon at $24.95 earned 93 points found under Australia: Red Wine and, of course, all his reviews of exceptional-value wines.
Identify the LCBO store nearest you with stock of any wine with an LCBO product number by clicking on the number shown in brackets in wine reviews then clicking on ‘Select Stores’ and entering your postal code—the number of bottles available in stores near you is displayed as well as online—or by clicking ‘Check all stores’ where you’ll see stock available in all LCBO stores. For Vintages Release wines, stock should be displayed the Friday before a Saturday release, updated every 24 hours, some stores post earlier. LCBO Portfolio wines (wine not in Vintages) should always closely reflect stock in stores, updated every 24 hours. However, it’s always best to phone the store before making a trip.
September 15, 2018 Vintages Release
Sparkling Wine
• The following Graham Beck Rosé Non-Vintage Sparkling Wine was produced using the ‘Traditional Method’.
91
Graham Beck ‘Brut’ Rosé Non-Vintage
WO Western Cape, South Africa $19.95 (175588) 12.0% alcohol
This opens with fragrant aromas—strawberry, watermelon and wisps of raspberry—and plenty of mousse, a.k.a. froth or bubbles, that form when poured. It’s a delight on the palate with lively flavours of red cherry and red berry fruit persisting throughout. It finishes in a blaze of crisp, lip-smacking freshness. Wonderful on its own as an aperitif or party starter, it has the oomph to stand alongside most appetizers. (Vic Harradine)
86
Joseph Cattin ‘Brut Rosé’ Crémant d’Alsace
AOC Crémant d’Alsace $18.95 (264572) 12.0% alcohol
This method tradition-styled bubbly opens with floral notes entwined with red cherry/berry aromas. A crisp, clean and refreshing line of bracing acidity carries flavours of lemon drop, Key lime and notions of red berry fruit across the palate infusing the lip-smacking finish. Pour alongside ceviche, freshly shucked oysters or pan-seared seafood under a squeeze of fresh lemon. (Vic Harradine)
91
JCB No. 21 ‘Brut’ Crémant de Bourgogne
AOC Burgundy $29.95 (371831) 12.0% alcohol
This is a classy, nicely balanced, full-of-flavour bubbly that’s driven by the marriage of sweet, ripe fruit—poached pear and Golden Delicious apple—on the palate and bracing lip-smacking acidity—lemon curd and Key lime—on the crisp, refreshing finish. It’s a chardonnay/pinot noir blend fashioned méthode traditionnelle resting on its lees 12 months before disgorgement. This pours particularly well with poached red snapper or clam chowder. (Vic Harradine)
Ontario: White Wine
91
Château des Charmes ‘St. David’s Bench Vineyard’ Chardonnay 2015
VQA St. David’s Bench, Niagara-on-the-Lake $23.95 (430991) 13.5% alcohol
There are leesy notes, toast, spice and buttery aromas on the nose of this medium-plus bodied, fully textured, charming chardonnay. The palate flavour is delivered on a riveting flow of grilled pineapple, caramel, lemon curd and lime cordial. It finishes with palate-flavour replays on the monumentally long, lip-smacking finish. This is a wonderful candidate to join you at a fish fry or serve with prawn and chorizo paella. (Vic Harradine)
92
Closson Chase ‘K.J. Watson Vineyard’ Pinot Gris 2017
VQA Four Mile Creek $22.95 (469445) 12.0% alcohol
Honey-dipped pear, apricot and exotic spice aromas are precursors to a luscious balanced and beautiful gusher of racy lemon curd and pineapple interwoven with tingly spice on the palate and a dry, lip-smacking finish. This is medium weight and unoaked with plenty of creamy-smooth mouthfeel and mouth-watering, mineral-laced aftertaste; it’s crisp, clean and refreshing. Pour with prawn ceviche or mussels steamed in white wine and leeks. (Vic Harradine)
• You and the following 2016 Flat Rock ‘Good Kharma’ Chardonnay can both be counted as big-hearted as a portion of your purchase price is donated to the Ontario Association of Foodbanks. The price-quality balance here tips wildly in your favour, pick up a few and drink over the next 12 months or so.
90
Flat Rock ‘Good Kharma’ Chardonnay 2016
VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara Escarpment $16.95 (356873) 13.4% alcohol
Alluring aromas of exotic spice, floral notes and wisps of minerality abound on the nose. This is near-full bodied with creamy-smooth mouthfeel, A delicious, balanced flow of flavour—ripe apple, racy citrus, honeyed tropical fruit and a cornucopia of mixed orchard fruit—washes over the palate infusing the finish with ripe fruit, excellent tang and acidity from citrus notes and a boatload of charm. Stock up. (Vic Harradine)
87
Lundy Manor ‘Proprietor’s Blend’ White 2016
VQA Niagara Peninsula $18.95 (579961) 12.0% alcohol
Rosewater, exotic spice and lime aromas waft from this hand-picked, whole-cluster pressed white blend as they set the table for a smorgasbord of palate flavours including sweet-tinged, confectionary-like candy apple and treacle-drizzled pear along with notions of grapefruit and grilled pineapple. It’s medium-full bodied with good mouthfeel while palate flavours replay on the medium-length finish and aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)
88
Megalomaniac ‘My Way’ Chardonnay 2016
VQA Niagara Peninsula $24.95 (142646) 13.3% alcohol
This is medium-full bodied with fleshy texture, good balance and plenty of tang. Aromas of citrus baking spice and wisps of oak abound. It spreads over the palate creamy smooth and full of flavour delivered on a wash of apple, nectarine and racy lemon curd. Flavours replay on the aftertaste along with wisps of oaky notes and peach skin. Pour with roast chicken pork roast or poached salmon under a squeeze of fresh lemon. (Vic Harradine)
90
Stratus ‘Evergreen’ Riesling 2016
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (579888) 11.0% alcohol
This is lively, fresh and brimming with sweet fruit flavour nicely balanced and integrated with racy acidity. Aromas of apple, pear and minerality abound. It dazzles the palate with ripe, sweet pit fruit—white nectarine and yellow plum—interwoven with mixed spice, tangy lemon curd and Key lime. This is medium weight with an off-dry finish and aftertaste. Pour with spicy Asian cuisine like tandoori chicken or pad Thai. (Vic Harradine)
90
Vineland Estates ‘Elevation - St. Urban Vineyard’ Riesling 2016
VQA Niagara Escarpment $19.95 (38117) 10.5% alcohol
You’ll find a very floral nose on this light-gold-coloured riesling along with a hint of pear and touch of mineral. It’s good value, full bodied and off dry with flavours of red delicious apple and pink grapefruit. The long finish is reminiscent of apple cider spiked with citrus peel. A great wine to enjoy alongside skillet-seared pork chops. (Dave Isaacs)
Okanagan Valley: White Wine
89
Dirty Laundry ‘Not So Naughty’ Chardonnay 2016
VQA Okanagan Valley $21.95 (353144) 12.5% alcohol
Apple, citrus and pit fruit aromas provide segue to a lively citrus-laced river of lemon-lime and sharp mineral notes racing across the palate full of lively tang. It’s medium weight with good mouthfeel and a lengthy, mouth-watering finish and aftertaste. Pour with pan-seared and butter basted fillet of fish or mussels steamed in white wine and garlic. (Vic Harradine)
Ontario: Rosé Wine
88
Pelee Island ‘Lola’ Cabernet Franc Rosé 2017
VQA South Island, Lake Erie North Shore $15.95 (552497) 12.5% alcohol
Aromas and flavours of freshly picked strawberry, tangy cranberry and ruby red grapefruit dominate the nose and palate intertwined with notions of mixed spice and excellent acidity prevailing through the palate infusing the finish then aftertaste. Pour well chilled on its own or with a mixed deli board. The price-quality balance tips in your favour. (Vic Harradine)
89
Southbrook ‘Triomphe’ Organic Cabernet Franc Rosé 2017
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (279117) 11.4% alcohol
Spice and savory herbs on the nose, it flows over the palate with red currant and hints of passionfruit adorned with excellent acidity and surprising heft and structure. It finishes dry and lengthy. Give this a go with a baguette and charcuterie board. (Vic Harradine)
Ontario: Red Wine
90
Henry of Pelham ‘Estate’ Pinot Noir 2016
VQA Short Hills Bench, Niagara Escarpment $24.95 (268391) 13.5% alcohol
Delicate aromas of toast, dark berry fruit and mixed spice provide entry to a medium- bodied, tang-infused wash of palate-bathing flavour—racy red currant and crunchy pie cherry intertwined with sharp spice and sprigs of savoury herbs. This shines particularly well with coq au vin. (Vic Harradine)
89
Mastronardi Syrah 2016
VQA Lake Erie North Shore $24.95 (581223) 13.4% alcohol
Aromas of charred toast and wood smoke dominate the nose of this medium-bodied red. A lively, fresh wave of passionfruit, red cherry and tangy red currant washes over the palate along with adornments of white pepper and dark, bittersweet chocolate. This is medium-plus bodied with good mouthfeel and medium-length finish. Give it a go with grilled, gourmet sausage or beef fajitas. (Vic Harradine)
92
Wayne Gretzy ‘Whisky Oak Aged’ Red 2017
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (617738) 13.3% alcohol
This is a gorgeous Bordeaux blend—the two cabernets and merlot—at an attractive price. Only 25% was aged in whisky barrel, after maturing in French and American oak, so not at all overdone, although purists may scoff at the very idea ... harrumph. Aromas of ripe, dark berry fruit, smoke and sweet vanilla abound. It blankets the palate with a medium-bodied, nicely textured river of black currant and kirsch liqueur interwoven with baking spice, both dark and milk chocolate and wisps of vanilla. There’s plenty of tang, good structure and appeal. It finishes balanced and tasty. (Vic Harradine)
86
Westcott ‘Estate’ Pinot Noir 2013
VQA Vinemount Ridge, Niagara Escarpment $29.95 (427500) 13.5% alcohol
Savory herbal and medicinal aromas dominate the nose. These replay on the palate decorated by sour cherry, dill weed and wisps of spice-infused red cherry. It’s medium bodied and lean in texture and flavour. This cleans up dry, tart and mouth-watering. Pour with red pizza or pasta in tomato sauce. (Vic Harradine)
Okanagan Valley: Red Wine
87
Oak Bay Gamay Noir 2016
VQA Okanagan Valley $17.95 (392431) 12.5% alcohol
Peppery spice, cherry and floral aromas herald a bracing line of laser-like acidity streaking over the palate riding flavours of sour cherry, passionfruit and cranberry that replay on the dry, and drying, finish and aftertaste. It’s light on its feet with oodles of nerve, verve and pizzazz. Give this a go pasta in tomato sauce or a deli platter. (Vic Harradine)
California: White Wine
92
Black Stallion Estate Chardonnay 2016
Napa Valley $29.95 (339689) 14.5% alcohol
Tropical fruit, vanilla and floral aromas open this medium-bodied, nicely textured California chardonnay. It washes over the palate with a wave of flavour expressed as a spirited wash of racy citrus, ginger and Granny Smith apple flooding the palate infusing the long, lip-smacking finish and aftertaste. There’s good value here along with lots of pizzazz and crisp, refreshing, pleasurable imbibing. Pour with grilled or pan-seared fish or roast chicken. (Vic Harradine)
90
Bonterra Viognier 2017
Mendocino County $21.95 (128900) 14.8% alcohol
Aromas of apple, honeysuckle and Mirabelle plum appear on the nose of this medium-full bodied, organic viognier. A fully flavoured, creamy-textured flow of grilled pineapple and baked apple coats the palate along with wisps of sweet vanilla, oaky notes and spice. This boasts purity of fruit and a particularly welcomed finish and aftertaste of lemony tang. Pour with roast pork, turkey or chicken. (Vic Harradine)
87
Joel Gott ‘Unoaked’ Chardonnay 2016
California $23.95 (458778) 13.9% alcohol
A subdued nose of floral and mineral aromas provide entry to a medium-weight, satin-smooth mouthful of baked apple and poached pear with citrus tang on the back palate and aftertaste. This is a simple, straightforward chardonnay that pours well with seafood or fowl. (Vic Harradine)
89
Kenwood Chardonnay 2016
Sonoma County $18.95 (158790) 13.5% alcohol
Aromas of oak and highly perfumed floral notes precede a nicely paced and balanced stream of lemon, apple and pear flavours on the palate. A polished, crisp and refreshing finish follows leaving a crisp, clean and refreshing aftertaste. It’s quite good value and pairs nicely with breaded and skillet-cooked pork cutlets. (Vic Harradine)
California: Red Wine
89
Belle Glos ‘Las Alturas Vineyard’ Pinot Noir 2015
Santa Lucia Highlands, Monterey County $59.95 (212076) 14.7% alcohol
This is not your garden-variety pinot noir. Opaque and brooding in the glass, this offers soft aromas of briary berry and espresso roast. It then unleashes a medium-plus bodied, generously textured stream of rich and concentrated flavour with black currant, cassis and sweet vanilla to the fore while notions of prune and fig linger in the background. It finishes lengthy and fruit-forward. Pour with grilled back ribs slathered with spicy barbecue sauce. (Vic Harradine)
91
J. Lohr ‘Hilltop’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2015
Paso Robles $49.95 (686584) 14.9% alcohol
This has a lifted nose of dark briary berry, oaky notes and peppery spice aromas. It envelops the palate with medium-plus bodied, generously textured surge of rich luscious black raspberry and black currant jelly intertwined with espresso roast, sweet vanilla, black licorice and dark, bittersweet chocolate galore. The lingering finish and aftertaste replay palate flavours with gusto. Pour with grilled back ribs, grilled striploin or beef fajitas. (Vic Harradine)
88
Rodney Strong ‘Sonoma County’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2015
Sonoma County $26.95 (226944) 13.5% alcohol
Savoury herbs and red berry fruit aromas precede medium-plus bodied, well-textured mouthfuls of black and red cherry/berry flavours adorned with grilled savoury herbs and charred toast. It’s fruit-filled and pours well with grilled rack of lamb or grilled striploin after a one- or two-hour aeration/decant. As California cab goes, this is certainly attractively priced. (Vic Harradine)
89
Carol Shelton Wines ‘Wild Thing-Old Vine’ Zinfandel 2015
Mendocino County $26.95 (282517) 14.5% alcohol
This is a sustainably farmed, wild-yeast fermented zin that offers lifted aromas of exotic spice, dark berry fruit and savoury herbs. A tang-laden wave of bramble berry jam, piquant spice and flecks of supple tannin reverberates on the palate persisting through the long, finish and aftertaste. This is medium-plus weight with creamy-smooth mouthfeel and plenty of lively spirit, nerve and verve. Pour with grilled red meats after a two-hour aeration/decant. (Vic Harradine)
87
Buried Cane Cabernet Sauvignon 2015
Columbia Valley $19.95 (402081) 13.8% alcohol
Aromas of herbs, spice and mocha open the floodgates to a rush red currant and sour cherry flavour underpinned by still-evolving tannin. Aerate/decant three hours or pop corks 2020 and beyond. Pour this alongside rare-grilled, well-seasoned rib-eye steak. (Vic Harradine)
Chile: Red Wine
89
Concha Y Toro ‘Marques de Casa Concha’ Carmenère 2016
Peumo, Cachapoal Valley $21.95 (169862) 14.0% alcohol
A quiet, delicate nose of floral and spice notes is precursor to a medium-plus bodied wash of racy red currant, tangy cranberry juicy black cherry blanketing the plate framed in riveting acidity and cloaked in a robe of tannin. All’s well that ends well and this ends fruity and tangy on the lengthy, mouth-watering finish and aftertaste. Pour with home-grilled burgers or gourmet sausage. (Vic Harradine)
92
Errázuriz ‘Aconcagua Costa’ Pinot Noir 2017
DO Aconcagua Valley $24.95 (541151) 13.0% alcohol
Mineral notes, piquant spice and savory herbs mingle with alluring floral notes on the nose of this deftly balanced and gorgeously tasty pinot noir. It’s as smooth as silk on the palate showcasing flavours of ripe black cherry and passionfruit intertwined with sprigs of herbs and juicy tang and acidity. It’s medium weight with good texture and persistent purity of fruit. Pour with roast chicken or smoked duck breasts. (Vic Harradine)
91
Ventisquero ‘Grey Glacier - Single Block - Trinidad Vineyard' Cabernet Sauvignon 2015
DO Maipo Valley $19.95 (485474) 13.5% alcohol
Aromas of sandalwood, dark berry fruit and baking spice waft easily from this medium-full bodied, generously textured cab. It dishes up a fully flavoured stream of red cherry and cassis supported by grilled savory herbs, ripe, supple tannin and wonderful balance on the lengthy finish and aftertaste. Drink now after a three-hour aeration/decant or pop corks 2020-2024 along with a fine cut of rare-grilled, well-seasoned beef. (Vic Harradine)
Australia: White Wine
89
Wakefield Wines ‘Estate’ Chardonnay 2016
Clare Valley $15.95 (711556) 13.5% alcohol
This offers a generously textured, mouth-filling stream of crisp, refreshing flavour from twist top to final drop of the lengthy finish and aftertaste. Aromas of tropical fruit, ginger and nutmeg abound. They precede a medium-full bodied, tapestry of palate-bathing flavour—white nectarine, apple pie spice, nutty notes and gorgeous lemony tang. It’s well balanced, well priced and delicious. Long story short—pick up a few. (Vic Harradine)
Australia: Red Wine
90
Jip Jip Rocks Shiraz/Cabernet 2016
Padthaway, South Australia $16.95 (186114) 14.5% alcohol
This red blend—55% shiraz/45% cabernet sauvignon—will dazzle your olfactory system with a compelling nose of red fruit, vanilla and earthy note aromas interlaced with hints of oak. It’s full bodied and fully fruited with fresh flavours of cherry, strawberry and sweet vanilla deftly balanced with mouth-watering tang. The tannin in this youthful red are barely perceptible and smoothly integrated. This will keep until 2026 and can be enjoyed today with grilled pepper steak or smoked cheddar. Your imbibing pleasure will be enhanced by a two-hour aeration/decant. (Dave Isaacs)
90
Thorn-Clarke ‘Shotfire’ Shiraz 2016
Barossa, South Australia $22.95 (18796) 14.0% alcohol
Piquant spice and mixed sprigs of savoury herb aromas provide segue for a riveting line of delectable tang with flavours of crunchy red cherry and tart cranberry to the fore. This is medium-plus bodied with good mouthfeel, excellent structure and purity of fruit and a lip-smacking shot of tang on the finish and aftertaste. Aerate/decant for a couple of hours before serving. (Vic Harradine)
93
Xanadu ‘DJL’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2014
Margaret River, Western Australia $24.95 (444802) 14.0% alcohol
This showcases deft balance, persistent purity of fruit and structure. A gorgeous nose of exotic spice, floral notes and cherry/berry fruit aromas pave the way for a gusher of hedonistic ambrosia with palate flavours of black currant and black juicy cherry interlaced with piquant spice and dark, bittersweet chocolate. It’s medium bodied with creamy-smooth texture and a lingering, luxurious finish and aftertaste. Pour with grilled rack of lamb or a thick steak of beef tenderloin done medium-rare on the egg. (Vic Harradine)
New Zealand: Red Wine
88
Oyster Bay Pinot Noir 2016
Marlborough $20.95 (590414) 14.0% alcohol
Semi-transparent ruby in colour, attractive pipe tobacco and smoky notes mingle with red cherry and cranberry aromas. This dry, medium-bodied red balances fresh acidity and subtle tannins with tart red fruit, spice and earthy flavours. Warm on the finish, you’ll enjoy this with grilled salmon fillet. (Lisa Isabelle)
South Africa: White Wine
89
Avondale ‘Jonty’s Ducks Pekin White’ 2016
WO Paarl $16.95 (439554) 13.5% alcohol
There are honeysuckle, citrus and mineral aromas on the nose of this medium-weight, biodynamic, unique white blend—chenin blanc, roussane, muscat, viognier, sémillon. A nicely balanced, mouth-filling river of citrus, white nectarine and baking spice flavour blankets the palate persisting through the dry, mouth-watering finish. It’s very well priced with a lingering finish. This pours well on its own or with chicken, pork or seafood. (Vic Harradine)
France: White Wine
88
Pfaff Special 2016
AOC Alsace $13.95 (469734) 12.0% alcohol
This refreshing white blend has a lively nose of Gala apples, honeysuckle, and beeswax. It’s full bodied on the palate with medium acidity and a slight perception of sweetness that lends itself to flavours of pear and sweet apple. Enjoy with pork tenderloin roasted with apples and onions. (Dave Isaacs)
91
Pierre Sparr ‘Réserve’ Pinot Gris 2014
AOC Alsace $18.95 (983395) 12.5% alcohol
Melon, pineapple and honey on the nose, this dazzles the palate with oodles of flavour, texture and delectable nectar. A smorgasbord of flavour bathes the palate with ripe nectarine and pear bolstered by lemon curd. It’s medium bodied and creamy smooth with balance and a lingering, crisp and refreshing finish and aftertaste. Pour with pan-seared scallops or roast chicken. Stock up at this attractive price. (Vic Harradine)
87
Domaine du Bois-Malinge Sur Lie Muscadet Sèvre et Maine 2016
AOC Muscadet Sèvre et Maine $14.95 (224246) 12.5% alcohol
There’s exceptional value in this 100% melon de Bourgogne from the Loire Valley. The nose offers aromas of green apple, zesty citrus and a pleasant bread dough note from time spent on its lees. Dry, light bodied, fresh and crisp, tart apple and lemon flavours refresh the palate while a vein of minerality extends through the mid-length finish. Enjoy as an aperitif or with moules frites. (Lisa Isabelle)
88
Clarence Dillon ‘Clarendelle’ Blanc 2015
AOC Bordeaux $24.95 (28845) 12.5% alcohol
This blend of 47% Sémillon, 42% Sauvignon Blanc, 11% Muscadelle appears bright gold in the glass and has an interesting nose of cut grass with notes of mineral, peach, and stewed pears. It’s medium bodied on the palate with flavours of white plum and a mineral acidity that leads to a refreshingly fruity finish. This will pair nicely with poached halibut and lemon-herb sauce. (Dave Isaacs)
France: Rosé Wine
90
Michel Gassier ‘Le Pas du Moine Sainte-Victoire’ Rosé 2017
AOP Côtes de Provence $23.95 (450874) 13.5% alcohol
This wonderfully refreshing rosé is a unique blend of grenache, syrah, cinsault, rolle, cabernet sauvignon. It’s light peachy-pink in colour and offers a nose that’s pleasantly floral with additional hints of strawberry, vanilla and mint aromas. There’s a slight perception of sweetness on the palate and an excellent balance of tongue-tickling acidity. The flavours are fruity, with a touch of tartness towards the finish that leaves you smacking your lips and wanting more. Enjoy with a salmon Niçoise salad. (Dave Isaacs)
88
Henri Gaillard Rosé 2017
AOP Côtes de Provence $16.95 (450825) 13% alcohol
This value-packed blend of syrah, grenache, mourvèdre and cinsaut had aromas of green leaves, honeysuckle and strawberry on the nose. It’s medium-bodied on the palate with a crisp acidity, strawberry flavours and just a touch of fresh mint. It’s mouth-watering on the finish wrapping up what is altogether an enjoyable experience. Enjoy with grilled chicken breast topped with tomato-balsamic salsa. (Dave Isaacs)
France: Red Wine
90
Château Hauchat 2015
AOC Fronsac $17.95 (123489) 14.0% alcohol
This value-packed, merlot-dominant red coats the palate with ripe fruit, complexity, good structure and allure. Aromas of incense, toasty notes and dark berry fruit abound. It rolls over the palate with waves of black currant, piquant spice and mocha. It’s medium-weight with an easy-drinking personality, creamy smooth and fruity on the palate and finish garnished with mixed spice and savory herbs. This is enhanced with a two-hour aeration decant. (Vic Harradine)
88
Château la Fleur des Aubiers 2015
AOC Médoc $16.95 (550376) 13.5% alcohol
This well-priced, elegant Bordeaux is dark red in colour with a slight orange tinge. You’ll find a lively nose of moss, fresh mint leaves, blackberry and cherry aromas with a hint of mocha. It is full bodied with a decent acidity and flavour of blackberry along with tannins that grow to dominate the finish. You can drink it today with grilled game meat or cellar until 2020. (Dave Isaacs)
91
Château le Puy Emilien 2014
AOC Francs Côtes de Bordeaux $29.95 (557660) 13.0% alcohol
This wine is dark red, almost opaque, in colour and is just beginning to brown with age around the edges. There’s a fascinating nose of mushrooms and moss with hints of dried mint and just a touch of barnyard. It’s smooth on the palate with a good balance of acid and well-aged tannins. Lively flavours of cherry and dried fruit linger on the wonderfully balanced finish. You could lay it down in the cellar for another couple of years, but better to enjoy it now with some veal marsala with mushrooms. (Dave Isaacs)
88
Château Moulin de Clotte 2010
AOC Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux $19.95 (550426) 13.5% alcohol
A blend of 90% merlot and 10% cabernet franc, this wine is deep garnet in colour with an overall cast of orange that indicates its age. Aromas of old wet wood and dried cherries dominate the nose. It’s smooth on the palate with well-integrated tannins, juicy blueberry flavours and a pleasant balance of acid. If you want to try a well-aged wine at a great price, look no further. It’s drinking perfectly right now, but could hold for another couple of years. (Dave Isaacs)
88
Brumont ‘Tour Bouscassé’ 2012
AOC Madiran $17.95 (414615) 14.0% alcohol
This wine is a blend of tannat, cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc harvested from 20- to 100-year-old vines. It’s opaque ruby in appearance and has an herbaceous nose of dried mint and thyme with notes of cherry and pencil shavings. It’s medium bodied on the palate with a good balance of acid and loads of tannins. The producer describes the wine as one that ‘stays young for a long time.’ No argument there. It can be enjoyed today—be sure to decant for an hour—with a medium-rare steak seasoned with black pepper. However, better to lay it down in the cellar until at least 2022. (Dave Isaacs)
Georgia: Red Wine
87
United Stars Saperavi 2016
Kindzmarauli, Kakheti $12.95 (466458) 12.5% alcohol
Saperavi is a red grape variety native to Georgia—a rare ‘teinturier’ grape in that the pulp and juice of the grape is red, as well as the skin. In the Kakheti region this grape is often used to make semi-sweet wines; however, this value-priced wine is not one of them. It’s dark-ruby hued and has aromas of black plum, vanilla and strawberries. It’s medium bodied on the palate with ripe, perceptible tannins and gentle acidity. There are juicy, palate flavours of cherry and blueberry. Enjoy with roast chicken breasts served with a balsamic cherry sauce. (Dave Isaacs)
Italy: Red Wine
88
Bosio Barbera d'Asti 2017
DOCG Asti $16.95 (454009) 13.0% alcohol
There are notes of cherry jam, hints of mint and a touch of earthy minerality on the nose and smooth, well-integrated tannins on the palate. Flavours of raspberry and mint trail off to a long dry finish supported with good balance of acidity. It’s an easy-drinking, enjoyable red. Pair with spaghetti and meatballs. (Dave Isaacs)
92
Sobrero ‘Ciabot Tanasio’ Barolo 2013
DOCG Barolo $54.95 (286070) 14.0% alcohol
Medium red-brick in colour, this big bold Barolo really delivers. There’s a striking nose of moss, cherry, cocoa powder, nutmeg, and vanilla. Even with the unmistakably strong tannins, it’s smooth on the palate with great balance. It bursts with flavours of blueberry and spice. This one is a keeper, at least until 2022, and will probably be drinking well to 2030. It’s well paired with roast pheasant with wild rice and mushroom stuffing; if you’re right out of pheasant, give roast chicken a try. (Dave Isaacs)
Spain: Red Wine
89
Pago de Valdoneje Mencía 2016
DO Bierzo $15.95 (268805) 14.0% alcohol
This is pleasantly refreshing and dark red, almost opaque, in the glass. You’ll find lots of fresh red fruit and spices on the nose, and flavours of juicy fruit and vanilla on the palate. It’s medium-to-full bodied, with a good balance of acidity and smoothly integrated tannins. This is a real crowd-pleaser at an attractive price. It’s drinking nicely right now, but can stay in the cellar until 2020. Serve alongside a charcuterie plate featuring Spanish chorizo sausage. (Dave Isaacs)
89
Valdelacierva Crianza 2013
DOCa Rioja $18.95 (438713) 14.0% alcohol
This Crianza, made from Tempranillo grapes hand-harvested from 30-45 year old vines, has been aged for 14 months in new French and American oak barrels. The oak shows in its nose, which is dominated by aromas of cedar and dried herbs with hints of raspberry layered underneath. It’s very approachable with a medium body, smooth tannins and perfect balance. The sour cherry flavours linger in the finish. It’ll cellar for another 5 years or you can enjoy now with a rack of BBQ beef ribs. (Dave Isaacs)
Cheers Vic, Dave, Lisa, Louise