July 29, 2018 Newsletter
Newsletter Highlights include:
- Finding Waldo – Which French wine region was first to make sparkling wine more than a century before Dom Perignon was born? Urban legend mistakenly has it that he was the first person to make sparkling wine while living in Champagne.
- Exceptional-value wine
– 5 of 52 wines will soon be available at LCBO retail meeting strict quality-price guidelines. They’re found in the following Vintages Release. These wines range from $14.95 to $19.95 and are found throughout the newsletter easily identified via the exceptional-value checkmark above. Strict guidelines? Click here. - 95 and over – no wine scored 95 points or over.
- Louise Loves – Francis Coppola Diamond Collection Gold Label Chardonnay 2016 earned 92 points @ $21.95 found under California: White Wine; Edge Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 earned 90 points @ $36.95 found under California: Red Wine; Pascal Jolivet Sancerre 2017 earned 91 points @ 29.95 found under France: White Wine, and of course, all her exceptional-value wines.
- Vic Picks – 2016 Southbrook Farms ‘Organic - Triomphe’ Chardonnay earned 91 points @ $24.95 found under Ontario: White Wine; 2015 Montes ‘Alpha’ Syrah earned 92 points @ $19.95 found under Chile: Red Wine; 2015 Guado Al Tasso ‘Il Bruciato’ earned 92 points @ 25.95 found under Italy: Red Wine, and of course, all his exceptional-value wines.
Identify the LCBO store nearest you with stock of any wine with an LCBO product number by clicking on the number shown in brackets in wine reviews then clicking on ‘Select Stores’ and entering your postal code—the number of bottles available in stores near you is displayed as well as online—or by clicking ‘Check all stores’ where you’ll see stock available in all LCBO stores. For Vintages Release wines, stock should be displayed the Friday before a Saturday release, updated every 24 hours, some stores post earlier. LCBO Portfolio wines (wine not in Vintages) should always closely reflect stock in stores, updated every 24 hours. However, it’s always best to phone the store before making a trip.
August 4, 2018 Vintages Release
Champagne
90
Nicolas Feuillatte ‘Brut’ Champagne 2008
AOC Champagne $59.95 (240085) 12.0% alcohol
This blend of the holy trinity of Champagne grapes—chardonnay, pinot noir, pinot meunier—displays an array of aromas including floral, citrus, leesy notes and wisps of baking brioche. It’s quite lively, energetic on the palate with a bracing line of lemon, lime and grapefruit acidity mingling with baked apple and ripe juicy pear. It finishes clean, crisp, refreshing and pours exceptionally well as a welcoming wine or with lighter-styled appetizers. (Vic Harradine)
Ontario: White Wine
88 
13th Street ‘June’s Vineyard’ Riesling 2015
VQA Creek Shores, Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (147512) 12.0% alcohol
This opens with aromas of gun flint and sour citrus notes before bathing the palate with a light-on-its-feet wash of sweet and tang flavours—ripe peach and red apple meet up with wisps of lemon pastilles and persist through the mid-length finish, This off-dry riesling is a good pairing with grilled and butter-dipped garlicky prawns. (Vic Harradine)
91
Southbrook Farms ‘Organic - Triomphe’ Chardonnay 2016
VQA Niagara Peninsula $24.95 (172338) 13.0% alcohol
Exotic spice, wisps of smoky oak and sweet vanilla aromas provide segue to a racy river of lime-drizzled crab apple jelly and notions of Mirabelle plum caressing the palate infusing the lengthy, mouth-watering finish. This is medium-weight with creamy-smooth mouthfeel and plenty of tang throughout. Pour with ceviche, sushi, pan-seared or grilled seafood. (Vic Harradine)
Ontario: Red Wine
86
Backyard Vineyard ‘Nosey Neighbour’ Cabernet Franc 2015
VQA Niagara $14.95 (469247) 13.0% alcohol
This well-priced 100% cabernet franc offers aromas of red cherry, black tea, tomato stem and peppery notes. Medium-bodied, it flows on the palate with flavours of tart red cherry, blackberry, herbaceous and black pepper notes meeting still evolving grippy tannin. Aerate/decant for 2 hours and enjoy with gourmet burgers on the barbecue. (Louise Boutin)
87
The Organized Crime ‘Break-in’ Pinot Noir 2016
VQA Beamsville Bench $21.95 (396267) 12.5% alcohol
Hand-picked grapes crushed just before fermentation begins, produce this almost blush color pinot. A restrained nose shows fresh aromas of red cherry, strawberry, earthy note and a hint of baking spice. A tangy wash of juicy cherry, tart cranberry and raspberry flavours merge on the palate with dry savoury herb and a suggestion of cinnamon in the medium-short finish. A medium-light pinot totally enjoyable on a warm summer night paired with pan-blackened salmon. (Louise Boutin)
88
Wildass Red 2014
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $19.95 (86363) 13.5% alcohol
Stratus master-winemaker, J-L Groux, is the doyen of blending around these parts. This is tart and racy on the palate with oodles of racy tang, pie cherry, red currant and sprigs of savory herbs that complement the aromas of red berry fruit, spice and herbs that preceded pouring. It’s medium weight with decent texture and balanced finish and aftertaste. Pour alongside grilled gourmet sausage, beef fajitas or meat-laden, red pizza. (Vic Harradine)
California: White Wine
92
Francis Coppola ‘Diamond Collection –‘Gold Label’ Chardonnay 2016
Monterey County $24.95 (708305) 13.5% alcohol
This beauty displays a golden robe from the centre of the bowl throughout the rim. Buttery vanilla aromas covering poached apple and ripe peach ooze from the glass announcing a feast for the palate. It delivers with a creamy mouthfeel and flavours of ripe orchard fruits — pear, peach and apricot elegantly wrapped in melted butter and vanilla notes, courtesy nine months of French oak ageing. A good dose of acidity ensures a crisp buttery finish and saline-note aftertaste. Medium-full bodied, this is the perfect partner to a pan-seared halibut filet with lemony cream sauce. (Louise Boutin)
90
Stags’ Leap Winery Chardonnay 2016
Napa Valley $39.95 (655381) 14.3% alcohol
This classic white from an iconic Napa winery is a reminder that a great chardonnay never goes out of style. On the nose, aromas—white peach, yellow apple, lemon curd, delicate white flower and oaky notes—mingle in an harmonious manner. A meticulous fermentation recipe — 25% stainless steel, 25% new and 50% seasoned French oak, without malolactic conversion but maturation on lees for six months bring complexity and round texture to this wine. Lemon meringue flavours dominate on the palate with delicate vanilla and mineral notes offering a long, warm, lively finish. This is medium-full-bodied and will further evolve with additional cellaring, but hard to resist now. Pair with toasted polenta, melting brie and sautéed mushrooms. (Louise Boutin)
California: Rosé Wine
92
Decoy Rosé 2017
California $29.95 (558114) 13.5% alcohol
This unique blend—69% syrah, 14% vermentino, 9% carignan, 8% pinot noir—was crafted with fruit picked at the perfect ripeness to produce a dry rosé. This exudes freshly crushed strawberry aromas flirting with rose petal and a zing of pink grapefruit. The palate’s treated to additional ripe field strawberry perfectly balanced with freshly cut sweet citrus and mineral notes. This is medium bodied and stainless-steel fermented to preserve the fruit-forward character persisting through the delicious dry finish. Totally delightful on its own, it’s also a perfect partner to grilled salmon fillet. (Louise Boutin)
California: Red Wine
89
Benzinger Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon 2015
Sonoma County $27.95 (597237) 13.5% alcohol
This 100% cabernet sauvignon from certified sustainable farming fills the air with a lovely potpourri nose—dark cherry, licorice, violet, vanilla and smoke. It seduces the palate with a silky-textured mouthfeel showcasing ripe fruit flavours—red and black cherry, red plum and blackberry plus mocha and a refreshing hint of spearmint. It shows character with its fine grippy tannins and an interesting mineral note in the finish and aftertaste. Aerate/decant 2 hours and pour this full-bodied red alongside slow-cooked beef short-ribs. (Louise Boutin)
89
Ca’ Momi ‘Heartcraft’ Merlot 2015
Napa Valley $24.95 (470187) 14.5% alcohol
This 100% merlot saw eight months in French and American oak barrel before bottling. It has a medium-red hue with a dynamic nose of smoked ham, mossy notes and cherry jam. This is medium weight with tart flavours of sour cherry and a base of integrated, but still apparent, tannins. Overall, it’s very pleasurable to drink now and will also keep until 2021. Pair with grilled Portobello mushrooms marinated in balsamic vinegar after a two-hour aeration/decant. (Dave Isaacs)
90
Edge Cabernet Sauvignon 2015
Alexander Valley $36.95 (34223) 13.6% alcohol
This red blend of primarily cabernet sauvignon with a splash of merlot and cabernet franc is matured 16 months in French oak, 35% new and has an irresistible nose of dry cherry, blackberry, milk chocolate, tobacco and toasted wood. A bright wash of juicy dark cherry, blackberry and cassis floods the palate meeting half-way with fine yet firm tannin, mocha flavour and a cool minty note persisting in the medium-long finish. This medium-full-bodied red offers very good structure and longevity but is totally enjoyable now. Aerate/decant 2 hours and pair with juicy grilled rack of lamb sprinkled with fresh mint. (Louise Boutin)
89
Paul Dolan Cabernet Sauvignon 2015
Mendocino County $31.95 (135152) 14.5% alcohol
This organic red blend—96% cabernet sauvignon, 3% cabernet franc and 1% petit verdot—opens the door with aromas of mature purple plum, dark chocolate, leather and tobacco. This is bold and robust and will benefit from 2-3 years of additional cellaring to fully express its potential with the fruit quality that is starting to emerge —dark plum, cassis, and blackberry--and to soften the drying tannin. If drinking now, aerate/decant for 3 hours and pair with steak tartare. (Louise Boutin)
Argentina: White Wine
89
Catena ‘High Mountain Vines’ Chardonnay 2016
Mendoza Argentina $19.95 (918805) 13.0% alcohol
Aromas of baked apple and fruit salad abound in this yellow-gold hued chardonnay. It bathes the palate with lemon pie filling and tropical fruit with wisps of caramel and Key lime. It’s medium-bodied, generously textured with good balance on the finish and aftertaste. Pour with your favourite chicken—rotisserie roast, Mary Brown’s, nuggets, KFC, beer-can, St Hubert, clay-bake… you get the idea. (Vic Harradine)
Argentina: Red Wine
90
Domaine Bousquet ‘Reserve’ Malbec 2016
Tupungato, Uco Valley, Mendoza $19.95 (55244) 14.0% alcohol
Lovely, alluring aromas of ripe berry fruit, mocha and earthy notes uncover a fruit-driven wash of palate flavours with black currant, kirsch liqueur and juicy black plum to the fore. This is medium bodied and value-packed with good texture, good pace and a long, pleasing finish and aftertaste. Pour alongside burgers, roast chicken or beef fajitas. (Vic Harradine)
Chile: Red Wine
92
Montes ‘Alpha’ Syrah 2015
DO Colchagua Valley $19.95 (612) 14.5% alcohol
Grilled herbs and peppery spice aromas mingle with ripe dark berry fruit on the nose of this medium-weight, creamy smooth syrah. A huge mouthful of über-ripe fruit—mulberry and black juicy cherry—is supported by ripe supple tannin, kirsch liqueur flavour and hints of mocha on the palate. This punches well above the price and sports a lingering, delectable finish. Pour with a rare-grilled piece of premium beef. (Vic Harradine)
Australia: White Wine
• Margaret River has been garnering rave reviews for some time with respect to its world-class chardonnay and cabernet sauvignon and it simply grows with each vintage. If you’re a fan of chardonnay, give this serious consideration.
90 
Robert Oatley ‘Signature Series’ Chardonnay 2016
Margaret River, Western Australia $18.95 (350900) 12.5% alcohol
Powerful aromas of toasty oak and spice on the nose precede a balanced and beautiful flow of sweet-tinged Golden Delicious apple, ripe pear and Mirabelle plum nicely juxtaposed with a glorious rush of racy lemon acidity on the back palate and persisting through the long finish—clean, crisp and refreshing. This is medium-full bodied with good texture and delivers a price-quality balance tipped wildly in your favour. Pour with roast bird and all the extras. (Vic Harradine)
South Africa: White Wine
• Grapes for the following 2017 Waterkloof ‘Seriously Cool’ Chenin Blanc were sourced from dry-farmed, +thirty-year-old and forty-year-old bush vines, fermented by indigenous yeast then gently whole-bunch, basket pressed, settled and racked into concrete eggs and older 600 litre barrels, only lightly fined. It was lightly filtered and bottled after six months maturing in cement ‘eggs’ and oak barrels.
92
Waterkloof ‘Seriously Cool’ Chenin Blanc 2017
WO Stellenbosch $17.95 (443382) 12.5% alcohol
Honeysuckle, piquant spice and ripe honeydew melon aromas precede a gorgeous mouthful of lime-drizzled nectarine and lemon curd and wisps of honey enveloping the palate then infusing the clean, crisp finish. There’s a nice lick of tropical fruit mingling with the racy citrus on the aftertaste. Pour with clay-baked chicken or a round of brie topped with olive oil, lemon juice, garlic, black pepper, Dijon hot mustard and fine-diced red peppers then bake 15 minutes. Great advice on back label to chill but don’t kill aromas or flavours of wine; take out of fridge 20 minutes before serving. (Vic Harradine)
South Africa: Red Wine
88
Man Family Wines ‘Ou Kalant’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2016
WO Coastal Region $14.95 (512897) 13.5% alcohol
Interesting, attractive aromas of black plum cherry and Asian spice herald a fruit-infused flow of palate flavours—red raspberry, black currant and Bing cherry—along with soft tannin and wisps of wood smoke along the journey. It finishes long and luxurious with balanced tang and fruit replays from the palate. Pair with red pizza, grilled gourmet sausage or barbecued beef and vegetable kebabs. (Vic Harradine)
France: White Wine
89
Château Les Hauts de Lagarde Blanc 2017
AOC Bordeaux $16.95 (387787) 12.5% alcohol
This organic blend of 60% sauvignon blanc/40% sémillon offers freshly cut grass, green apple, pear and beeswax aromas on the nose. A crisp and juicy wash of freshly cut, tart green apple facing honey drizzled poached pear charms the palate and trail into a dry finish with a suggestion of lime zest and pleasant almond bitterness. Enjoy this excellent-value, medium-bodied white now on its own or alongside pear naan bread with whipped honey goat cheese and thyme. (Louise Boutin)
91
Pascal Jolivet Sancerre 2017
AOC Sancerre $29.95 (264945) 12.5% alcohol
Sauvignon blanc grapes from different soils—50% limestone, 30% limestone/clay and 20% flint, individually fermented with indigenous yeast then carefully blended result in this beautiful complex bouquet—white grape, green pear, pink grapefruit, honeysuckle and mineral notes. The attack on the palate is deliciously tart and vibrant with flavours of lime, Granny Smith apple, dill and a mouth-watering saline note teasing to the tip of the tongue in the persistent finish. This refreshing medium-bodied white is brilliant with a lemon-dill, grilled chicken breast or wild cod fillet. (Louise Boutin)
France: Rosé Wine
89
Tessellae Rosé 2017
IGP Côtes Catalanes $16.95 (450817) 12.5% alcohol
This is a value-packed, approachable Rosé with layers of flavour, good mouthfeel and a balanced and lengthy finish and aftertaste. A light, salmon pink hued, it has interesting aromas of strawberry and cherry with notions of marmalade. It envelops the palate with nicely textured mouthfuls of notable flavours—red cherry, raspberry and oodles of garrigue, aka local, savoury wild herbs. This is medium weight with a lengthy, fruit-driven, tang-laden finish and aftertaste. Pour with pan-seared salmon—it’s also a colour match, or steamed mussels. (Vic Harradine)
France: Red Wine
89
Laurent Gauthier ‘Grand Cras - Vieilles Vignes’ Morgon 2015
AOC Morgon $21.95 (279059) 13.5% alcohol
Here’s a 100% gamay from a winemakers’ family dating back to 1824 in Morgon, that’s sure to impress with its intricate aromas of sweet cherry, violet, bubble gum and earthy notes. A charming velvety textured wash of juicy red cherry floods the palate along with hints of kirsch liqueur and baking spice and the perfect dosage of acidity supporting the drying fruity finish. This serious medium-bodied Cru Beaujolais is versatile at the table and delicious with stuffed, red bell-pepper. Aerate/decant two hours before serving. (Louise Boutin)
90
Château Clarke 2010
AOC Listrac-Médoc $42.95 (503904) 14.0% alcohol
This Bordeaux blend—70% merlot / 30% cabernet sauvignon—shows signs of maturity with a deep ruby bowl turning to garnet on the rim. A beautiful aromatic medley greets the nose with aromas of prune, dry cherry, cassis and blueberry compote in the background merging with sweet smoke and tobacco notes. A silky mouthfeel pleases the palate while flavours of ripe cassis, tangy red cherry and black cherry meet layers of dark chocolate and freshly-cracked black pepper driving the lasting dry and piquant finish. While this full-bodied red is very tasty now, it will further evolve with 3 to 5 years of additional cellaring. Aerate/decant 2 hours and pair with medium-rare magret of duck with blueberry chutney. (Louise Boutin)
88
Maison Chanzy Bourgogne Pinot Noir 2016
AOC Bourgogne $24.95 (408153) 12.5% alcohol
Crafted with fruits from vines averaging 30 years-old and a maturation period of 10 months in 450L barrels, this pinot intrigues with its crunchy red cherry aromas hiding behind barnyard and fermentation notes. On the palate, the barnyard leaves the way to an explosion of juicy red cherry, tart cranberry and a touch of savoury herb. Medium-light bodied with round and soft tannin it offers a refreshing and delicious fruit-forward finish. Pour alongside a grilled turkey breast stuffed with cranberry and fresh herb. (Louise Boutin)
88
Gérard Bertrand ‘Terroir Minervois’ Syrah/Carignan 2015
AOC Minervois $16.95 (952804) 14.0% alcohol
Two staple grape varieties from this warm region of France, syrah and carignan, come together in this red after individual fermentation and malolactic conversion. Agitation is required to get chemical and fermentation notes out of the way and discover a fruity nose—dark cherry, purple plum, blackberry plus dry savoury herb and a distant oaky note. The ripe plum and blackberry replay on the palate along with piquant peppercorn enrobed in mellow tannin closing in a warm fruity and spicy finish. Crostini with olive tapenade is perfectly suited for this medium-full bodied crowd pleaser. (Louise Boutin)
90
Tessellae ‘Old Vines’ Grenache/Syrah/Mourvèdre - Côtes du Roussillon 2015
AOC Côtes du Roussillon $19.95 (343517) 14.5% alcohol
This blend from southern France — 50% grenache, 40% syrah and 10% mourvèdre screams ripe black fruit — plum, blackberry, cassis and cherry. Fully textured on the palate with ripe yet chewy tannin, it is generous on the fruit flavours — dark cherry, blackberry, blueberry with licorice freshness and a suggestion of savoury charred herb. This full-bodied red has cellaring potential, is unbelievably well-priced and is sure to be a hit at your next barbecue party. Aerate/decant 2 hours and pop the cork now onto 2022. (Louise Boutin)
87
Domaine Les Grands Bois ‘Cuvée Maximillian’ Côtes du Rhône-Village Cairanne 2015
AOC Côtes du Rhône-Village Cairanne $24.95 (286336) 15.0% alcohol
This deep purple southern-Rhône blend—50% grenache/35% mourvèdre/15% syrah—displays a lovely nose of ripe dark fruit, lavender notes and baking spice. The mouthfeel is ample and fully textured with firm tannin showcasing juicy black fruit flavours—plum, blackberry and cassis—complemented with tangy raspberry and a note of cinnamon adding interest in the medium-length warm finish. Aerate/decant 2 hours and enjoy alongside rare-grilled red meat or Mediterranean-styled, stuffed eggplant. (Louise Boutin)
Germany: White Wine
• The following 2016 Paul Anheuser ‘Schlossböckelheimer Königsfels’ Riesling Kabinett earned the highest rating in German wine, ‘Prädikatswein’ ensuring there was no sugar added—all sugar was derived from the natural sugar within the grape—when this wine was made. Sugar may be added in lower designations. The ‘Kabinett’ designation indicates ‘fully ripened grapes’ were harvested for this wine. Nahe is a wine region now widely recognized, since 1971, for quality wine.
90
Paul Anheuser ‘Schlossböckelheimer Königsfels’ Riesling Kabinett 2016
Prädikatswein, Nahe $17.95 (161828) 9.0% alcohol
Mineral and citrus aromas introduce a glorious gusher of palate-pleasing, deftly balanced, off-dry ambrosia. Lemon-lime cordial and tropical fruit flavours flow over the palate enveloping taste buds with sweet and tang while the finish and aftertaste leave you crisp, clean and refreshed with lip-smacking notes. This is the perfect accompaniment with baked ham or fruit desserts. (Vic Harradine)
Italy: Red Wine
• The following 2015 Mastroberardino Aglianico was sourced from 100% aglianico vines with an average age of 15 years. It spent time macerating on skins at a controlled temperature in stainless steel vats before maturing ten months in oak barrel.
90
Mastroberardino Aglianico 2015
IGT Campania $23.95 (93112) 13.0% alcohol
Floral notes, charred toast and red berry fruit aromas provide segue to a medium-plus bodied, fully textured river of palate-coating fruit flavours—currant, cherry and raspberry—interwoven with mocha and framed with a solid lick or racy tang. It’s underpinned with tannin that’s easily ameliorated with a two-hour aeration/decant. Pour with osso buco or pastitsio. (Vic Harradine)
88
Brancaia Tre 2015
IGT Toscana $24.95 (164715) 13.5% alcohol
Aromas of wood smoke and spice precede a medium-full bodied, tang-infused stream of crunchy red fruit—passionfruit and red currant—underpinned by still-evolving tannin adorned with mixed spice and lip-smacking acidity. This is mid weight with good mouthfeel and a lengthy finish. Pour alongside spaghetti Bolognese or manicotti in tomato sauce. (Vic Harradine)
91
Castelgreve ‘Riserva’ Chianti Classico 2013
DOCG Chianti Classico $21.95 (344416) 13.5% alcohol
Feint aromas of red fruit and spice are harbingers of a racy line of tang expressed as red currant, sour cherry and blueberry flavours streaking across the palate. This is medium bodied with good mouthfeel, a supple tannin structure and flavours persisting from the palate through the finish and aftertaste. Aerate/decant for a couple of hours and pour with pasta in tomato sauce. (Vic Harradine)
89
Castello di Gabbiano ‘Riserva’ Chianti Classico 2013
DOCG Chianti Classico $22.95 (216309) 13.5% alcohol
Delicate notions of spice and earth accent the red fruit of this dry, medium-bodied sangiovese with a touch of merlot. It’s well-structured with firm tannins and tangy, tart cherry and cranberry flavours alongside subtle notions of oak ageing—spice, cocoa and espresso bean. A restrained note of tea emerges on the extended, dry finish. Enjoy with meat-based tomato sauce over pasta. (Lisa Isabelle)
94
Fattoria Dei Barbi Brunello Di Montalcino 2012
DOCG Brunello Di Montalcino $54.95 (928028) 14.5% alcohol
This dazzles from cork pop to last drop; it showcases persistent purity of fruit, structure, balance, oodles of charm and… it was tough to spit. A lifted nose of ripe red licorice and savory herb aromas with smoky notes introduce a medium-bodied, nicely textured, rich, luscious river of ready-to-drink fruit flavours of ripe black currant, juicy black cherry and blueberry decorated with spice, mocha and supple ripe tannin. Palate-flavours persist through the balanced, lengthy finish and aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)
92
Guado Al Tasso ‘Il Bruciato’ 2015
DOC Bolgheri $25.95 (674135) 13.5% alcohol
Absolutely delicious, this sports gorgeous flavour, deft balance, purity of fruit and charm. Aromas of black licorice, exotic spice and dark berry fruit open the door to a roomful of delicious flavours with bramble berry, cassis and baking spice persisting over the palate, infusing the finish with replays and mouth-watering tang. It’s full bodied, fully textured and full of gorgeous flavour. If you fish in these waters, reel in some. (Vic Harradine)
89
Tezza ‘Ma Roat’ Ripasso Valpolicella Superiore 2015
DOC Valpolicella Superiore $17.95 (84053) 13.5% alcohol
This is certainly a wonderful price for Ripasso. It has a shy nose of spice and red berry fruit aromas that are more discernable after a couple of vigorous swirls. A tasty tang-laden wash of pie cherry and dark briary berry rush over the palate mingling with piquant spice and earthy notes. This is mid weight with good mouthfeel and lengthy, lip-smacking finish and aftertaste. Pour alongside pulled pork dressed with mild barbecue sauce. (Vic Harradine)
91
Zenato ‘Alanera’ Rosso 2014
IGT Rosso Veronese $19.95 (451724) 13.5% alcohol
Alluring aromas of baking spice, espresso roast and dark berry fruit abound on this merlot/corvina blend. It reveals a tang-laden, spice-infused personality with fruit-filled palate flavours of bramble berry, red cherry and black currant interlaced with licorice and dark, bittersweet chocolate. This is medium bodied and nicely textured and sports a racy, lip-smacking, dry finish, Pour with spaghetti and meatballs, meat lasagna or manicotti Florentine. (Vic Harradine)
Portugal: White Wine
• The following 2015 Quinta Da Murta ‘White’ hails from just north of Lisbon in one of Portugal’s top wine regions as indicated by its ‘DOC’ rating. Fruit was hand-picked and fermented with wild yeast.
88
Quinta Da Murta ‘White’ 2015
DOC Bucelas $14.95 (380279) 13.0% alcohol
The price-quality balance here tips in your favour. Orchard fruit, minerality, citrus and floral notes waft from this light-on-its-feet white wine made from the indigenous arinto grape variety. This rockets across the palate with a streak of tang carried on flavours of racy white grapefruit, lemon and pineapple. Good to go now and on to 2024; give it a go with all manner of fish and seafood especially prawn ceviche or pan-seared fish under a generous squeeze of fresh lemon juice. (Vic Harradine)
Spain: White Wine
86
Pazo Das Buxas Albariño 2016
DO Rîas Baixas $19.95 (417667) 12.5% alcohol
This is linear and taut starting with aromas of citrus and piquant spice. It reveals a tart personality with a focused stream of racy lemon, sharp green apple and a bitter bite of grapefruit pith on the finish and aftertaste. Pour with sushi, scallop ceviche or an olive-oiled arugula salad under crumbled chèvre. (Vic Harradine)
Spain: Red Wine
87
Conde Valdemar ‘Reserva’ 2011
DOCa Rioja $21.95 (947309) 13.5% alcohol
Spice and berry fruit on the nose, this is quite tart on the palate with a streak of acidity carried along on flavours of sour cherry and passionfruit adorned with mixed spice, perceptible tannin and oaky notes. This is medium weight with reasonable texture and palate flavours being replayed on the lingering and drying finish and aftertaste. Pop corks 2021 and pour with beef kepta brochettes. (Vic Harradine)
92
Bodega Ontañón ‘Gran Reserva’ 2005
DOCa Rioja $39.95 (939736) 13.5% alcohol
This is an example of a mature, character-driven Gran Reserva. A bouquet of black plum, leather, savory herbs and spice provide segue to a medium-bodied river of fruit flavours—mixed field berry fruit and red cherry—mingling with toasty oak, tobacco leaf and sweet vanilla. It’s a tempranillo-dominant red with: a 5% splash of graciano, another four or more years of life, medium-plus weight with reasonable texture and a lingering aftertaste of berry fruit, tang and mocha. (Vic Harradine)
Upstream in Vintages
Vintages Release: September 15, 2018
• The following 2015 Gérard Bertrand ‘Thomas Jefferson’ Sparkling Wine Brut is produced méthode traditionnelle from a blend of—chardonnay, chenin blanc, mauzac, pinot noir. It’s named to recognize this early US president’s love for the sparkling wines from Limoux. This area was first mentioned as producing sparkling wine in the 1531 records kept by the Benedictine monks of the abbey of Saint Hilaire, just south of Carcassonne and they make claim to being the first producer of sparkling wine made in volume in France—before Champagne. The reasoning behind the ‘in volume’ is that sparkling wine can and does occur naturally under certain conditions.
90
Gérard Bertrand ‘Thomas Jefferson’ Sparkling Wine Brut 2015
AOP Crémant de Limoux Blanc $19.95 (438838) 12.5% alcohol
The price-quality balance tips well in your favour here; pick up a few. Honeysuckle and melon aromas abound on the nose of this clean and refreshing sparkling wine. This offers up a lively mousse when poured and a persistent stream of fine-bead bubbles in the glass. It strides over the palate with Granny Smith apple, lemon pie filling and notions of white grapefruit finishing with a crisp, lengthy aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)
New in Vintages
87
Gérard Bertrand Grenache/Syrah/Mourvèdre ‘Terroir Corbières’ 2015
AOP Corbières $18.95 (394288) 14.0% alcohol
Aromas of blackberry pie with notes of garrigue and cracked black pepper rise from the glass of this dry, mid-weight GSM blend. The nuanced palate offers flavours of ripe dark fruit, savoury herbs, spice and smoke extending into the mid-length, drying finish. Pour with barbecued ribs. (Lisa Isabelle)
New in Ontario Wineries
• Purchase the following two wines online from the winery for daily home, restaurant or office delivery or by email at This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. or visit their Ottawa retail store in Minto Place at Laurier and Lyon or buy at their winery in Niagara-on-the-Lake -1025 York Rd, St. David’s Ontario L0S 1P0. Here’s a map.
• The following Non-Vintage Chateau des Charmes Sparkling Wine ‘Méthode Traditionelle’ was recently disgorged—after spending 18 months on its lees—guaranteeing you freshness and vitality. It’s a chardonnay/pinot noir blend with premium, estate-grown, hand-picked fruit and handled with loving care. In September/October 2018 it will be making its way to LCBO stores and kept in stock as a ‘Vintages Essentials’ product. For now and throughout the summer, see above.
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Chateau des Charmes Sparkling Wine ‘Méthode Traditionelle’ Non-Vintage
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $25.95 (224766) 12.5% alcohol
This provides terrific value; stock up. It offers a lively nose of baking brioche and lemon-lime aromas. A profusion of fine-bead bubbles make a substantial mousse when poured and continue in endless thin streams making their way to the top of your glass. Almost off-dry flavours of apple and pear on the palate are joined by a bracing line of lemon curd and Key lime persisting through the mouth-watering finish—clean, crisp and refreshing. (Vic Harradine)
• The following Non-Vintage Chateau des Charmes Sparkling Wine ‘Méthode Traditionelle’ was recently disgorged guaranteeing you freshness and vitality. It’s a chardonnay/pinot noir blend with premium, estate grown fruit hand-picked and handled with loving care. You can purchase it online from, or in person at, the winery, or their downtown Ottawa retail store in Minto Place at Laurier and Lyon.
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Chateau des Charmes Sparkling Wine ‘Méthode Traditionelle’ Non-Vintage
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $15.95 375 mL 12.5% alcohol
This is the perfect size to enjoy before lunch or dinner. It offers a lively nose of baking brioche and lemon-lime aromas. A profusion of fine-bead bubbles make a substantial mousse when poured and continue in endless thin streams making their way to the top of your glass. Ripe flavours of apple and pear on the palate are joined by a bracing line of lemon curd and Key lime persisting through the mouth-watering finish—clean, crisp and refreshing. (Vic Harradine)
New Wines in Private Order
• Order the following wines by the case for home, restaurant or office delivery in Ontario from VinoLuna wine agency. Contact via VinoLuna website, by Email at This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. or, in the GTA phone 416 587-6691.
• The following 2016 Domaine Épicuriale ‘Cuvée Gourmande’ is a 70% syrah/30% grenache blend sourced from stone-littered vineyards from vines averaging 25-years old. Fruit was de-stemmed and foot trodden then macerated for 12 to 15 days with delicate pump-overs.
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Domaine Épicuriale ‘Cuvée Gourmande’ 2016
AOP Côtes Du Rhône, France $14.95 13.5% alcohol
Fresh and lively on the nose, there are red fruit, black berry fruit and piquant spice aromas galore. It rides over the palate with more sharp spice, crunchy red cherry fruit and a lick of black plum compote. This is medium-full bodied with good texture, balance and charm and it finishes with more of the same. This makes a terrific dance partner with grilled steak, burgers or ribs. You can pick up the tab and invite the entire gang at this price. (Vic Harradine)
• The following 2016 Domaine Bolchet Costières de Nîmes was fashioned by 6th generation vigneron, Béatrice Bécamel. She sourced fruit from premium estate vines averaging 40 years of age—55% grenache, 40% syrah, 5% carignan—grown in terraced, pebble-strewn vineyards.
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Domaine Bolchet Costières de Nîmes 2016
AOP Costières de Nîmes, France $14.95 13.5% alcohol
This punches well above its price. Muted aromas of spice box and red berry fruit provide segue to a tang-laden, chalky/mineral river of palate-bathing flavour with red and black cherry decorated with warm black plum to the fore. It’s light on its feet re weight and texture while palate flavours replay on the mid-length finish and aftertaste. Pour with pasta puttanesca. (Vic Harradine)
• Fruit—70% grenache/30% syrah— for the following 2016 Jas du Lauzon was de-stemmed, foot trodden and fermented in concrete vats with 7 to 8 days of mild extraction. ‘Jas du Lauzon’ is a Provençal phrase referring to the dry-stone sheep barns found along rivers in this region.
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Jas du Lauzon Luberon 2016
AOP Luberon, France $14.95 13.5% alcohol
Lively aromas of red cherry, exotic spice and licorice abound. It’s medium weight with good mouthfeel and plenty of delectable fruit flavour. A balanced and beautiful palate-wash of pie cherry and ripe black plum mingle with delicious tang and a supple tannin underpinning. It finishes with lip-smacking tang, clean and dry. Pair with burgers, pizza or wings. (Vic Harradine)
• The fruit—60% syrah, 20% grenache, 15% carignan, 5% cinsault—sourced for the following hi-octane 2017 Domaine D’Agues Luberon was sourced from vines averaging 25 years of age. A traditional vinification of full de-stemming, three-day cold soak and three-week fermentation ensured optimal extraction.
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Domaine D’Agues Luberon 2017
AOP Luberon, France $14.95 15.0% alcohol
Strawberry, red cherry and sandalwood aromas leap from the glass. It rolls over the palate with a medium-full bodied, creamy smooth stream of black and red currant, blueberry and dark cherry interwoven with deft balance, excellent tang and oodles of charm. Palate flavour persist through the lingering and luscious finish. Pour alongside roast leg of lamb, crown roast of pork or grilled beef tenderloin steak. (Vic Harradine)
• The following 2016 Rhône to the Bone red blend—65% grenache/35% syrah—was sourced from vines averaging 40 years of age that enjoyed a four- to five-week vat maturation with lees stirring and 12 months maturation in stainless steel vats on their fine lees.
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Rhône to the Bone Grenache/Syrah 2016
AOP Côtes Du Rhône, France $15.95 14.0% alcohol
The price-quality ratio skews wildly in your favour. Dark berry fruit, spice and tarry/licorice note aromas set the table for a gusher of ripe, luscious fruit—bramble berry, black currant and juicy black Bing cherry—interlaced with excellent acidity, supple tannin and wisps of kirsch liqueur. This is medium-plus bodied with generous mouthfeel and lingering finish that’s balanced, fruit filled and bountiful… it’s delicious. (Vic Harradine)
• The following 2017 Valpanera ‘Album’ Bianco is a white blend—40% chardonnay, 40% malvasia istriana, 20% riesling renano—that was harvested and immediately de-stemmed, crushed and stored at a controlled temperature of 5 C followed by gentle pressing, racking and cool fermentation at 15 to 16 C to retain freshness in the finished wine.
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Valpanera ‘Album’ Bianco 2017
IGT Trevenezie, Italy $16.95 13.0% alcohol
The price-quality balance in this white blend tips in your favour. Aromas of tropical fruit, orange blossom and wisps of honey precede a medium-bodied, nicely textured wash of palate flavours with lemon-lime, pineapple and grapefruit pith to the fore. It’s refreshing on the palate, finish and aftertaste. Sip on its own or pour alongside your favourite seafood dish. (Vic Harradine)
• The following 2015 Valpanera ‘Atrum’ Rosso is a Ripasso-styled red sourced from 40% refosco dal peduncolo, 30% merlot, 30% cabernet sauvignon vines with an approximate average age of twenty years. The second fermentation lasted three or four days over freshly crushed pomace, aka skins and pulp, of refosco dal peduncolo grapes. This wine matured approximately 10 months in large oak barrel. Trivia: The refosco dal peduncolo grape is one of a handful of the thousands of varieties in existence in which stems also turn red when the fruit ripens.
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Valpanera ‘Atrum’ Rosso 2015
IGT Trevenezie, Italy $16.95 13.0% alcohol
This Ripasso-styled red leaps from the glass with aromas of black licorice, sweet vanilla and baking spice. It delivers an elegant, beautifully balanced river of flavour that captures the palate with ripe black currant, blueberry and tangy red cherry mingling with mocha and wisps of mineral notes. It’s balanced from start to finish showcasing persistent purity of fruit from cork pop to last drop. A sure-fire crowd pleaser at an exceptional price. (Vic Harradine)
• The following 2015 Valpanera Refosco Dal Peduncolo - Rosso is 100% refosco dal peduncolo was sourced from vines with an approximate average of twenty years. After pressing and fermentation it rested and matured up to two years in stainless steel tank. The refosco dal peduncolo grape is quite rare in that stems turn red as grapes mature.
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Valpanera Refosco Dal Peduncolo - Rosso 2016
DOC Friuli, Aquilea, Italy $16.95 13.0% alcohol
This is very good value and uncomplicated; it’s loaded with tang and showcases persistent red fruit and a lengthy, lip-smacking finale. Red and black berry fruit aromas meld with mocha and red licorice on the nose. It washes over the palate with lively, crunchy red fruit—currant, cherry and cranberry—supported by excellent tang and good balance, followed by a lingering finish and aftertaste. Pour alongside meat-laden, red pizza, pasta Bolognese or baked, green poblano peppers stuffed with rice, tomato and minced beef. (Vic Harradine)
Cheers, Vic, Louise, Lisa