June 30, 2018 Newsletter
Happy July 1st Canada Day!
Newsletter Highlights include:
- New in Wineries – there are many interesting, value-laden wines in the latter half of the newsletter. Many are bespoke, limited-production wines that may never make their way to LCBO shelves. These are wines sold through Canadian wineries and will be delivered to your home or office.
- Exceptional-value wine
– 10 of 58 wines will soon be available at LCBO retail meeting strict quality-price guidelines. They’re found in and after the Vintages Release. These wines range from $13.95 to $17.95 and are found throughout the newsletter easily identified via the exceptional-value checkmark above. Strict guidelines? Click here. - 95 and over – no wine scored 95 points or over.
- Lisa Likes – Mas des Bressades ‘Cuvée Tradition’ Blanc 2017 earned 89 points at $17.95 found under France: White Wine; Château D’Aquéria Tavel Rosé 2017 earned 91 points at $23.95 found under France: Rosé Wine; Serge & Bruno Sourdais ‘Le Logis de la Bouchardière’ Chinon 2016 earned 90 points at $20.95 under France Red Wine; Gattavecchi Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2013 earned 92 points at $25.95 found under Italy: Red Wine and, of course, all her exceptional-value wines.
- Vic Picks – Closson Chase ‘Vineyard’ Chardonnay 2016 earned 91 points at $29.95 found under Ontario: White Wine; Teusner ‘The Riebke’ Shiraz 2016 earned 92 points at $23.95 found under Australia: Red Wine; Borthwick Vineyard ‘Paper Road’ Pinot Noir 2016 earned 92 points at $23.95 found under New Zealand: Red Wine; Lavau Vacqueyras 2014 earned 91 points at $26.95 found under Italy: Red Wine and, of course, all his exceptional-value wines.
Identify the LCBO store nearest you with stock of any wine with an LCBO product number by clicking on the number shown in brackets in wine reviews then clicking on ‘Select Stores’ and entering your postal code—the number of bottles available in stores near you is displayed—or by clicking ‘Check all stores’ where you’ll see stock available in all LCBO stores. For Vintages Release wines, stock should be displayed the Friday before a Saturday release, updated every 24 hours, some stores post earlier. LCBO wines (wine not in Vintages) should always closely reflect stock in stores, updated every 24 hours. However, it’s always best to phone the store before making a trip.
July 7, 2018 Release
Champagne
90
Georges Gardet ‘Cuvée Saint Flavy’ Brut Non-Vintage
AOC Champagne $42.95 (924654) 12.0% alcohol
This has an attractive nose of minerality, floral and heady citrus notes. There’s a lovely attack on the palate with a rush of white grapefruit and green apple flavours infused with spice and mineral nuances. It’s medium in weight and texture and offers a lingering finish that’s zesty and clean. There’s enough oomph for it to be paired with light appetizers and the more than fair price, as Champagne goes, allow it to be served as the welcoming wine at any upscale gathering—including a special evening for two. (Vic Harradine)
Sparkling Wine
92
Rosehall Run ‘Ceremony’ Blanc de Blancs Brut Multi-Vintage
VQA Prince Edward County $34.95 (575696) 12.2% alcohol
Bracing citrus aromas meld with leesy notes and flecks of minerality on the nose of this methode traditionelle, estate-grown, 100% Chardonnay sparkling wine. Tangy lemon citrus dominates the initial sip with crisp green apple and hints of lime joining the party on the palate and infusing the mouth-watering finish. This is crisp and refreshing, perfect as a welcoming wine, served with appetizers or alongside fish or seafood. (Vic Harradine)
88
Bottega Gold Prosecco Non-Vintage
DOC Treviso, Veneto, Italy $27.95 (621458) 11.0% alcohol
The golden-coloured bottle isn’t merely bling, it preserves freshness in the wine longer than clear glass. Hand-harvested glera grapes produced this Charmat-method sparkler. It’s dry, crisp and refreshing throughout with aromas and flavours of lip-smacking, lemon zest, green apple and pear—pour with lighter appetizers or seafood. This also glitters in a variety of winery-suggested cocktails. (Vic Harradine)
Ontario: White Wine
• Fruit for the following 2016 Closson Chase ‘Vineyard’ Chardonnay was hand-harvested from 2 vineyards—75% South Clos/25% Churchside sourced from low-yielding, hand-harvested vines, barrel fermented and matured in French oak, only 10% new. Twist caps now to 2022.
91
Closson Chase ‘Vineyard’ Chardonnay 2016
VQA Prince Edward County $29.95 (148866) 13.3% alcohol
Baked custard, an oaky note or two and exotic spice aromas provide segue to a medium-weight, beautifully textured stream of pure ambrosia with apple pie spice, lemon curd and orchard fruit flavours—yellow peach, white nectarine and ripe pear—gliding over the palate mellow and smooth. It finishes with replays adorned with ginger snap and lip-smacking tang and acidity. Gorgeous now, will improve over the short term and pours well with roast chicken or pork, or duck confit. (Vic Harradine)
90 
Henry of Pelham ‘Estate’ Riesling 2016
VQA Short Hills Bench $17.95 (268391) 11.5% alcohol
The price-quality ratio skews well in your favour. Floral, sharp citrus and stone fruit aromas herald a gorgeous mouthful of sweet and tang, slightly off-dry, lemon curd, Key lime pie and wisps of mineral notes washing over the palate, mid weight and nicely textured. This is balanced and drinking well now, especially with spicy or curried Asian dishes. (Vic Harradine)
California: White Wine
88
McManis Chardonnay 2016
River Junction, California $19.95 (265983) 13.5% alcohol
This wine is medium-yellow in appearance with just a slight green-hued cast. It’s been aged in new and used American and French oak which gives it an unmistakable nose of buttered toast and honeydew melon. About two-thirds of the wine went through malolactic fermentation giving it a full-bodied, creamy mouthfeel while maintaining a healthy balance of acidity. There are flavours of tropical fruit with a smoky/oak background that lingers in the finish. This pairs wonderfully with chicken Alfredo. (Dave Isaacs)
California: Rosé Wine
88
Angels & Cowboys Rosé 2017
Sonoma County $24.95 (493155) 12.8% alcohol
Pale coral in colour, this grenache-dominant blend opens with strawberry, crab apple and sweet citrus flavours accented with fresh herbs and a dusty mineral note. Dry, light bodied with a crisp, clean mouth feel, berry and citrus flavours extend into the mid-length finish. Serve with roasted beet and feta salad. (Lisa Isabelle)
California: Red Wine
89
Maycas Del Limarí ‘Limestone Coast - Reserva Especial’ Chardonnay 2016
DO Limarí Valley $22.95 (143768) 13.5% alcohol
Subdued aromas of pineapple, mint and citrus notes introduce a lovely flow of baking spice, buttered toast and crisp green apple mingling with flecks of oaky bits and plenty of citrus tang. It’s Chablis-like—crisp, clean and refreshing with medium body, good texture and clean, mouth-watering finish. Pour with pan-seared fish or seafood. (Vic Harradine)
88
Belle Glos ‘Clark & Telephone Vineyard’ Pinot Noir 2015
Santa Maria Valley, Santa Barbara County $59.95 (652883) 14.6% alcohol
Rich ripe aromas of plum, milk chocolate and sweet vanilla dominate the nose on this medium-bodied, sweet-tinged pinot noir. Rich luscious flavours of milk chocolate-dipped black cherries, sweet bramble berry jam and toasty oak envelop the palate persisting through the sweet finish and aftertaste, Pour with slow-cooked pulled pork slathered in spicy barbecue sauce. (Vic Harradine)
• Fruit for the following 2015 Calera Pinot Noir was hand-picked, fermented by autochthonous yeast in open-top fermenters then matured 11 months in French oak barrel, 10% new.
91
Calera Pinot Noir 2015
Central Coast $48.95 (933044) 14.5% alcohol
This shows purity of fruit, complexity, balance and rich, juicy flavours. Savoury herbs, dark berry fruit and mixed spice aromas herald a medium-weight, creamy-smooth flow of palate bathing flavours with juicy red and black cherry, piquant spice, tangy red currant and oodles of tang. It finishes with palate replays, balanced and beautiful. Pour alongside duck confit or roast pork tenderloin. Pricey, but not over-priced. (Vic Harradine)
89
Frank Family Cabernet Sauvignon 2014
Napa Valley $65.95 (246900) 14.5% alcohol
Aromas of floral notes, leather and black currant make way for a juicy, lively river of strawberry, crunchy pie cherry and mixed spice making its way over the palate, medium-full bodied and nicely textured. It finishes with lively red fruit flavour—plum, currant and cherry—as well as perceptible, but acceptable, tannin; aerate/decant for two to three hours and pour with well-seasoned, grilled rare to medium-rare, beefsteak. (Vic Harradine)
91
Seghesio ‘Sonoma’ Zinfandel 2016
Sonoma County $29.95 (942151) 14.8% alcohol
This zinfandel has a dash of petite sirah, perpetuating a family tradition at this 120-year-old winery. The lovely nose—plum compote, cherry pie filling, blueberry and a delicate hint of violet—prepares the palate for a silky-textured flood of flavour with perfectly ripe purple plum, juicy dark cherry with layers of dry cocoa and black peppercorn adding texture and complexity through the delicious, lengthy, warm finish. Aerate/decant for one hour pouring alongside grilled rack of lamb; also enjoy as an excellent after-dinner sipper. (Louise Boutin)
91
Truchard Cabernet Sauvignon 2014
Carneros, Napa Valley $41.95 (59683) 14.2% alcohol
This stunning red is a blend of 87% cabernet sauvignon, 11% cabernet franc, 1% each malbec and petit verdot. It’s medium red in colour with a slight orange cast. Aromas of dry earth, oak and mushrooms dominate the nose with traces of dry leaves and black peppercorns lurking in the background. It hits the tongue and palate with medium body and a good amount of well-integrated tannins. There’s a complex variety of flavours including plenty of red fruit and spice that linger nicely in the finish. You can put this one away for another 10 years or enjoy it today with medium-rare, grilled pepper steak. (Dave Isaacs)
Washington State: Red Wine
90
Chateau Ste. Michelle ‘Indian Wells Red Blend’ 2013
Columbia Valley $26.95 (421081) 14.5% alcohol
This blend of predominantly syrah and merlot—with a smattering of 5 other grape varieties—spent 16 months in French and American oak before bottling, 46% new. The appealing nose captivates with pronounced dark fruit aromas with undercurrents of cedar, espresso bean, mint and violet. Dry, full-bodied, soft and hinting of creaminess on the palate, concentrated flavours of blackberry and blackcurrant are layered with baking spice and black peppercorn. (Lisa Isabelle)
89
Seven Hills ‘Columbia Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2014
Columbia Valley $38.95 (510792) 14.5% alcohol
This is quite focused and somewhat linear as it rides a streak of bracing tang and acidity from start to finish. The palate’s treated to a variety of flavours with bramble berry, cassis, juicy black cherry and dark plum interwoven with mocha and spice box framed by crunchy red fruit—pie cherry, cranberry and passionfruit tang. The medium-length finish is dry and mouth-watering. Pour with prawn and chorizo paella. (Vic Harradine)
Oregon: White Wine
• The following 2015 Domaine Drouhin ‘Arthur’ Chardonnay is named for the winemaker’s son. It was sourced from Dijon-clone vines first planted 25 years ago, then partially fermented in French oak barrel, balance in stainless steel.
91
Domaine Drouhin ‘Arthur’ Chardonnay 2015
Dundee Hills, Willamette Valley $39.95 (959619) 13.9% alcohol
A lifted nose of spice box, floral and flinty/mineral notes along with almond aromas set the stage for a lean, focused stream of citrus acidity streaking across the palate decorated with piquant spice, notably ginger. This is mid-full bodied with good mouthfeel and plenty of racy, tang-laden minerality from cork pop to last drop. Pour with freshly shucked oysters or sushi. (Vic Harradine)
Chile: Red Wine
91
Ritual Pinot Noir 2015
Casablanca Valley $21.95 (514182) 14.0% alcohol
This is delicious. Piquant spice, wood smoke and aromatic bitters aromas float easily from this medium-bodied, nicely textured, deftly balanced, drink-me-now pinot. Rich, ripe and rarin’ to go fruit blankets the palate and persists through the long aftertaste—strawberry, raspberry and cherry—deftly balanced by excellent acidity and tang. (Vic Harradine)
Australia: Red Wine
89
Leeuwin Estate ‘Prelude’ Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot 2013
Margaret River, Western Australia $32.95 (986133) 13.5% alcohol
Aromas of dark berry fruit, grilled herbs and oaky notes open the door to a delightful wash of dark cherry and black currant interlaced with cassis, piquant spice and still-evolving tannin. This is medium bodied and nicely textured with drying finish and aftertaste. Pour after a two-hour aeration-decant or wait a couple of years to open. (Vic Harradine)
89
Mr. Riggs ‘Outpost’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2016
Coonawarra, South Australia $24.70 (126896) 14.5% alcohol
Sage and mixed herbs dominate the nose with supporting aromas of mocha and baking spice before spilling over the palate, medium-plus weight and nicely textured, with a tangy stream of black raspberry and racy red currant supported by supple tannin and dark bittersweet chocolate on the finish and aftertaste. Aerate/decant for three hours and serve with your favourite cut of barbequed beef. (Vic Harradine)
92
Teusner ‘The Riebke’ Shiraz 2016
Barossa Valley, South Australia $23.95 (48470) 14.5% alcohol
This is only my third vintage tasted (2005, 2012) and it never fails to impress; though big, brawny and bold, it’s also balanced and beautiful with persistent purity of fruit. Rich and alluring aromas of dark berry fruit and peppery spice reluctantly give way to a luscious river of red and black currant brimming with ripe flavour and racy tang, mingling with baking spice, mocha, cassis and kirsch liqueur through the finish and aftertaste. Pour with grilled rack of lamb. (Vic Harradine)
New Zealand: Red Wine
92
Borthwick Vineyard ‘Paper Road’ Pinot Noir 2016
Wairarapa, North Island $26.95 (179770) 13.5% alcohol
This is marked by excellent ripe fruit and acidity balance, depth, complexity and structure. Savoury herbs and spice box aromas leap from the glass. It envelops the palate with a balanced river of herb- and spice-infused mouthfuls of primary fruit flavours—red currant, blueberry and black cherry—persisting through the lengthy, mouth-watering finish where wisps of soft tannin add structure and interest. Not many NZ pinots offer a better price-quality ratio. Serve with roast chicken, turkey or duck. (Vic Harradine)
New Zealand: Rosé
91
Black Cottage Wines Rosé 2017
Marlborough, South Island $16.95 (539320) 12.5% alcohol
This 100% pinot noir Rosé punches well above its price and is presently in stores; pass this by and it’s your loss. Aromas of strawberry and mineral notes unleash a glorious wash of cranberry and ripe red cherry flavour decorated with excellent tang, good weight and texture and a dry, lip-smacking finish and aftertaste. It sips beautifully on its own and pours exceptionally well with steamed mussels, pan-seared salmon or lighter-styled appetizers. (Vic Harradine)
South Africa: White Wine
• The following chardonnay from the Hamilton Russel winery boasts estate fruit from one of the most southerly, cool-climate vineyards in South Africa—below the equator you go toward the South Pole for cooler climes. It’s close enough to the sea for the Hemel-en-Aarde Valley appellation to claim a maritime climate as it’s just tucked in behind the über-gorgeous, seaside town of Hermanus. They grow only Chardonnay and Pinot Noir at Hamilton Russell and are recognized as one of the wine world’s premium producers of both.
93
Hamilton Russell Chardonnay 2017
WO Hemel-en-Aarde Valley, Walker Bay $44.95 (931006) 13.0% alcohol
This iconic chardonnay showcases persistent purity of fruit, depth, complexity, firm structure and near-perfect balance throughout. Aromas of sweet vanilla, oaky bits and ripe pear dominate the nose preceding a medium-full bodied river of tang-laden, spice-infused flavours of pear, lemon curd and nectarine intertwined with flint-mineral notes. This is charming and delightfully delicious with a lengthy, mineral-infused finish. While very good now, it should handsomely repay even short-term cellaring; pop corks starting 2020. (Vic Harradine)
France: White Wine
90
Joseph Cattin Pinot Gris 2016
AOC Alsace $16.95 (196956) 13.0% alcohol
This family-owned estate has been making wine for over 300 years. Hi-toned aromas of orange marmalade, peach, ginger and orchard blossoms appear vividly on the nose. Medium bodied, off dry and well balanced, it finishes mid length with a richly textured wash of ripe orchard fruit, honey and subtle spice flavours on the tasty palate. Offering exceptional value, enjoy with spicy, sautéed prawns. (Lisa Isabelle)
89
Domaine Chevallier Chablis 2016
AOC Chablis $26.95 (112227) 12.5% alcohol
Green apple, pear, peach and sweet, ripe citrus notes open this dry, medium-light bodied chardonnay. The palate is zesty and fresh with flavours of lemon, orchard fruit and a chalky mineral note lasting into the long, mouth-watering finish. Serve this classic Chablis with freshly shucked oysters. (Lisa Isabelle)
90
Thierry Delaunay Touraine Sauvignon Blanc 2017
DOP Touraine $16.95 (391847) 12.5% alcohol
Tart citrus aromas meld with pineapple, mango and a faint floral note on the nose of this exceptional-priced Loire Valley white. Dry, medium-light bodied and well balanced, lemon-lime flavours streak across the palate while a flinty mineral note extends into the medium-long, fresh-tasting finish. Enjoy as an aperitif or with pan-seared trout. (Lisa Isabelle)
89
Mas des Bressades ‘Cuvée Tradition’ Blanc 2017
AOC Costières de Nîmes $17.95 (701094) 13.5% alcohol
The perfumed nose of this blend of grenache blanc, roussanne, marsanne and viognier offers lovely floral aromas paired with ripe tropical fruit. Dry, medium bodied and nicely textured, mango and pineapple flavours decorated with tangy lemon pith and orchard blossoms surge over the palate and linger on the medium-long finish. Pair with grilled or roasted chicken. (Lisa Isabelle)
France: Rosé Wine
89
Château la Tour de L’Evèque Rosé 2017
AOC Côtes de Provence $20.95 (319392) 13.5% alcohol
This blend of cinsault and grenache, with a smattering of 6 other grapes, was produced using direct pressing of whole bunches of organically grown grapes followed by fermentation with indigenous yeasts. Red apple, zesty citrus and plum aromas entice the nose and repeat on the fresh-tasting palate. Dry and medium-light bodied, it’s crisp and mouthwatering with zesty citrus notes lingering on the mid-length finish. Enjoy this summertime favourite with mesclun salad topped with crumbled chèvre. (Lisa Isabelle)
90
Saint Aix Rosé 2017
AOP Coteaux d’Aix en Provence $22.95 (451906) 13.0% alcohol
Ripe strawberry and tart citrus aromas with hints of dusty minerals open this salmon-pink hued blend of grenache, syrah and cinsault from the one of the largest estates in this region. Dry, light bodied and refreshing, the palate showcases fresh red fruit and pink grapefruit flavours with a hint of rhubarb on the mid-length finish. Pour with a charcuterie platter. (Lisa Isabelle)
91
Château D’Aquéria Tavel Rosé 2017
AOC Tavel $23.95 (319368) 14.0% alcohol
This appellation in the southern Rhone Valley produces only rosé wines. Candy apple pink in colour, aromas of crisp red apple, savoury herbs, spice and a whiff of cotton candy open this intriguing grenache-based blend. The palate is fresh and juicy, offering strawberry and watermelon flavours supported by savoury notions of earth and Mediterranean herbs. Dry, mid weight and well structured, this would stand up to cold, grilled salmon sprinkled with capers. (Lisa Isabelle)
90
Jean-Max Roger ‘La Grange Dîmière’ Sancerre Rosé 2017
AOC Sancerre $27.95 (490813)
Strawberry, spice and citrus aromas provide segue to a tang-laden gusher of passionfruit, cranberry and racy red currant capturing the palate and persisting through the crisp, mouth-watering finish. This has oodles of tang and asserts itself throughout. The bracing tang make this a wonderful pairing with ceviche, sushi, smoked salmon with cream cheese, dill weed, capers and sweet onion on a baguette, or briny oysters. (Vic Harradine)
France: Red Wine
89
Clarence Dillon ‘Clarendelle’ Red 2014
AOC Bordeaux $24.95 (28837) 13.0% alcohol
This wine of the month, a blend of 74% merlot, 20% cabernet sauvignon, 6% cabernet franc, releases a concentrated and powerful nose of dark fruit, cedar, graphite, earth and spice. Dry, medium bodied with fresh acidity, the palate gently reveals cherry, plum and blackberry fruit flavours with notions of charred green pepper and anise before finishing mid-length with a pleasant savoury aftertaste. (Lisa Isabelle)
89
Château la Roche Bazin 2014
AOC Côtes de Bordeaux-Blaye $18.95 (416701) 13.5% alcohol
There’s depth and complexity on the nose of this blend—80% merlot, 20% cabernet sauvignon—with red cherry, dark plum, leather, spice and wet earth aromas rushing from the glass. Dry, medium-full bodied, showcasing a velvety texture, the firm tannins and defined acidity frame intense dark fruit flavours and spice notes. Decant two hours before serving alongside a rustic hunter’s pie. (Lisa Isabelle)
91
Lavau Vacqueyras 2014
AOC Vacqueyras $26.95 (104927) 14.5% alcohol
Red and black cherry aromas interplay with sprigs of local herbs, aka garrigue, on the nose of this grenache/syrah/mourvèdre blend. A full-bodied, generously textured, balanced and beautiful wash of red cherry and black currant interweave with earthy notes and baking spice on the palate persisting through the lingering finish along with notions of anise and cassis. This is good to go now and on to 2022 pouring well with roast pork. (Vic Harradine)
90
Serge & Bruno Sourdais ‘Le Logis de la Bouchardière’ Chinon 2016
AOP Chinon $20.95 (490375) 13.0% alcohol
Aromas of raspberries and cherries, doused with notions of violet, blackcurrant leaf and a mineral note, are abundant on the nose of this nicely-textured cabernet franc fashioned with grapes from vines averaging 30 years of age. The palate features tangy redcurrant and cranberry flavours co-mingling with grilled herbs and a dusty minerality lasting through the lengthy finish. Dry, medium bodied with approachable tannin, it would be a fine pairing with a grilled Portobello mushroom burger. (Lisa Isabelle)
87
Gérard Bertrand Grenache/Syrah/Mourvèdre Corbières 2015
AOP Corbières $18.95 (394288) 14.0% alcohol
Aromas of blackberry pie with notes of garrigue and cracked black pepper rise from the glass of this dry, mid-weight GSM blend. The nuanced palate offers flavours of ripe dark fruit, savoury herbs, spice and smoke extending into the mid-length, drying finish. Pour with barbecued ribs. (Lisa Isabelle)
91
Xavier XV Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2015
AOP Châteauneuf-du-Pape $54.95 (244814) 14.5% alcohol
Xavier Vignon is a consultant winemaker for prominent estates in the southern Rhone Valley. The fresh red fruit—cherry, strawberry and raspberry—layered with subtle floral and spice notes appear in abundance on the nose. A richly-textured flow of ripe red and dark fruit, entwined with black olive and spice grace the flavourful palate. Dry, full bodied and balanced, velvety yet perceptible tannins are paired with vibrant acidity and well-integrated alcohol. It finishes medium-long and warm with a lengthy red fruit aftertaste. (Lisa Isabelle)
Italy: White Wine
87
Maculan Pinot Grigio 2016
IGT Veneto $15.95 (734921) 12.5% alcohol
Candied lemon peel, red apple and peach aromas segue to flavours of orchard fruit and citrus on the palate. It’s dry, medium-light bodied, soft and supple in texture with enough acidity to balance. Pair this easy-going summer sipper with light appetizers. (Lisa Isabelle)
Italy: Red Wine
91
Planeta Noto Nero D’Avola 2012
DOC Noto $27.95 (477190) 13.1% alcohol
Sweet, cherry-berry aromas garnished with attractive notes of star anise, cracked pepper and dusty cocoa waft from this charming nero d’avola. Dry and medium-full bodied, the smooth texture is balanced with vibrant cherry and raspberry flavours mingling with spice, dry leaves and a mineral note. Well-structured with a mouth-watering, lasting fruity finish, it’ll complement grilled lamb. (Lisa Isabelle)
92
Gattavecchi Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2013
DOCG Vino Nobile di Montepulciano $25.95 (672642) 14.0% alcohol
Refined, yet firm in structure, this well-crafted red was aged for two years in Slavonian and French oak with a further six months in bottle before release. It patiently displays layered aromas of mixed berries, earth, spice and violet. Sour cherry and plum flavours infused with cocoa, spice and tea leaves endure into the long, vibrant finish. This medium-full bodied red is well-structured with marked acidity and pronounced tannins. Decant 2-3 hours before serving with braised stew. (Lisa Isabelle)
90
Principe Corsini ‘Le Corti’ Chianti Classico 2015
DOGC Chianti Classico $26.95 (400861) 14.0% alcohol
An earthy quality, notions of exotic spice and sandalwood weave through vivid cherry/berry aromas before coating the palate with sour cherry, steeped tea and spice. Dry, medium-full bodied with clean acidity and grippy tannins, this appealing sangiovese-based red finishes lengthy and dry. Enjoy with eggplant parmesan. (Lisa Isabelle)
90
Soprasasso Amarone della Valpolicella 2014
DOCG Amarone della Valpolicella $34.95 (473124) 15.0% alcohol
This well-priced Amarone is laden with expressive aromas—succulent, ripe red and dark fruit, chocolate-covered espresso bean, prune, earth, leather and spice. Full bodied and smooth, the palate is coated with black cherry and dark plum flavours, layered with coffee and cinnamon. Balanced with well-integrated alcohol, it showcases great depth and length. Pair with aged hard cheeses. (Lisa Isabelle)
88
Storia Antica Ripasso Valpolicella Superiore 2016
DOC Valpolicella Ripasso $18.95 (273672) 14.0% alcohol
Cherry and plum aromas mingle with pipe tobacco, campfire smoke, baking spices and a subtle balsamic note. The concentrated palate is smooth in texture and features dried and fresh cherry flavours, black pepper and spice. Dry, medium-full bodied, drying tannins are offset by refreshing acidity on the lengthy finish. Pair with grilled beef. (Lisa Isabelle)
85
La Pieve Barolo 2012
DOCG Barolo $34.95 (213132) 14.5% alcohol
Aromas of black licorice, fig, raisin and tar mingle with lovely notes of lilac on the nose. It dishes up a bracing line of tangy acidity that’s electrifying and underpinned by a firm tannin structure. The berry fruit flavour on the palate is left a bit wanting and as this was sourced from an irregular—cool spring, light snow, hot summer, hail—it may be time to drink up after a lengthy aeration/decant. (Vic Harradine)
• The following 2016 Romio Primitivo from Puglia is 100% hand-picked Primitivo that saw no oak aging.
87
Romio Primitivo 2016
IGT Puglia $13.95 (569954) 13.5% alcohol
A hi-toned nose of black plum compote and cassis aromas set the stage for a spice-infused river of black currant, cherry cordial and wisps of soft tannin. This has good balance, persistent purity of fruit and plenty of pizzazz on the mouth-watering finish. You won’t go wrong sipping this or pouring with grilled red meat or barbecued pork back ribs slathered with mildly spiced barbecue sauce. (Vic Harradine)
89
Schola Sarmenti ‘Cubardi’ Primitivo 2012
IGT Salento $20.95 (316083) 15.0% alcohol
There’s depth and structure here along with uber-ripe fruit and a lingering, balanced and beautiful aftertaste. There’s oodles of sweet, ripe fruit on the palate preceded by aromas of grilled savory herbs, mixed field berry fruit and campfire smoke. A palate-bathing wash of spice-laden bramble berry and boysenberry jam intertwined with vanilla and wisps of blueberry. It finishes in a lengthy crescendo of flavour replays. (Vic Harradine)
Portugal: White Wine
89
Quinta das Arcas ‘Arca Nova’ Vinho Verde 2016
DOC Vinho Verde $13.95 (292029) 10.5% alcohol
This is low alcohol, light on its feet with a slight bit of spritz on opening. Lemon zest and floral notes dominate the aromas prior to unleashing a flinty, laser-like stream of tangy lemon-lime acidity mingling with white grapefruit pith and pineapple. It finishes in a blaze of tang—clean, crisp and lip-smacking good. Pour with briny oysters, sushi or scallop ceviche. (Vic Harradine)
Portugal: Red Wine
• The following 2011 Casa De Cambres ‘Reserva’ Red 2011 is a blend of native varieties—Rabigato, Viosinho, Arinto. Portugal has put Herculean effort toward preserving local grape varieties while many other countries sold out to the allure of pulling local varieties and replacing them with easy-selling varieties like chardonnay and cabernets, giving way to the ABC, aka anything but chardonnay, movement. Give the following a go and experience something a little different.
88
Casa De Cambres ‘Reserva’ Red 2011
DOC Douro $14.95 (470377) 13.5% alcohol
Vanilla, baking spice and field berry aromas give way to a flow of sage-infused flavours of ripe red and dark cherry/berry flavours mingling with racy tang and solid underpinning of chalky tannin. This is medium bodied with lots of texture and a juicy, dry, mouth-watering aftertaste. After a two-hour aeration-decant, pour alongside beef or pork fajitas, red pizza or home-grilled burgers. (Vic Harradine)
Spain: Rosé Wine
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Izadi Larrosa ‘Premium’ Rosé 2017
DOCa Rioja $15.95 (490961) 13.5% alcohol
Garnacha grapes were used to produce this refreshing, very well-priced rosé offering an aromatic nose of red berries, citrus, banana peel and earthy notes before bathing the palate with flavours of ripe strawberries, zesty grapefruit, savoury herbs. A pleasant hit of white pepper appears on the mid-length finish and aftertaste. Enjoy this dry, medium-light bodied rosé alongside tuna sashimi. (Lisa Isabelle)
Spain: Red Wine
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Voltostao ‘Legón’ Reserva 2012
DO Ribera del Duero $35.95 (303511) 14.0% alcohol
This showcases elegance, finesse and gorgeous flavours. An involved nose of dark berry fruit, black licorice and exotic spice aromas fill the air. It coats the palate with a wide swath of flavours with black currant and dark cherry to the fore adorned with cassis and kirsch liqueur, sweet vanilla and baking spice persisting through the balanced and beautiful finish. Good to go now after a two-hour aeration-decant with crown roast of pork or chicken pot pie. (Vic Harradine)
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Vinessens ‘Sein’ 2011
DO Alicante $16.95 (391896) 15.0% alcohol
A 60% mourvèdre/40% syrah red blend, fruit was hand harvested and hand sorted before fermentation and malolactic conversion then aged 12 months in French and American oak barrel by this artisan, family-owned winery. Black cherry, baking spice and earthy notes are precursor to a surge of black cherry, black currant and kirsch liqueur. It’s medium weight with good texture and supple tannin frame. Aerate/decant two hours before serving—exceptional value here. (Vic Harradine)
• The following 2015 Tarima Monastrell was sourced from head-trained, dry-grown monastrell, aka mourvèdre, vines with wine maturing six months in a combination of stainless steel and seasoned French oak.
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Tarima Monastrell 2015
DO Alicante $14.95 (310151) 14.5% alcohol
This is an exceptional value red showcasing ripe fruit, deft balance, a fruit/acid synergy, long, delectable aftertaste and short-term cellaring prospects. What’s not to like? Aromas of dried fruit, spice box and blackberry introduce a rich, ripe river of dark berry fruit washing over the palate balanced with tangy red currant and savory herbs. It’s medium-full weight, silky-smooth textured with a balanced and bountiful finish and aftertaste… dare I say, yummy? Pick up a few. (Vic Harradine)
Upstream in Winecurrent
Vintages Release: December, 2108
• The following vintage-dated 2013 Featherstone ‘Cuvée Joy’ Sparkling Wine was fashioned méthode traditionnelle, sourced from 25-year-old, hand-harvested 100% chardonnay vines then hand sorted and whole-bunch pressed with juice yield less than 500 L/tonne. After 2nd fermentation in the bottle that you purchase, it was left on its primary lees 31 months before being disgorged.
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Featherstone ‘Cuvée Joy’ Sparkling Wine 2013
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $25.95 (310334) 12.5% alcohol
The price-quality balance tips well in your favour; keep a few on hand. Lively aromas of baking brioche, nutty notes and citrus are harbingers of a glorious explosion of fine-bead mousse when pouring followed by endless streams of tiny bubbles wending their way to top of the glass. Flavours of lemon curd, mineral notes and ripe apple and pear dominate the palate. It finishes in a blaze of delightful tang; crisp, clean and refreshing. A great way to welcome guests and you can continue serving with appetizers. (Vic Harradine)
New in the LCBO
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Chateau des Charmes Aligoté 2017
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $15.95 (296848) 12.5% alcohol
The Aligoté grape is a crossing of pinot noir and gouais blanc with its origins pegged in Burgundy, France. This has a classic green-yellow hue and aromas of citrus, mineral and floral notes. It’s creamy smooth on the palate with flavours of honey, lemon curd and notions of grapefruit pith. An easy-going, exceptional-value sipper, it pours well with crumbled chèvre on olive-oiled arugula, pan-seared fish or white pizza. (Vic Harradine)
New in Ontario Wineries
• Purchase the following wine online from Château des Charmes for daily home, restaurant or office delivery by email at This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. or visit their Ottawa or Toronto retail store or buy at their winery in Niagara-on-the-Lake -1025 York Rd, St. David’s Ontario L0S 1P0. Here’s a map.
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Chateau des Charmes Riesling 2017
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $14.95 10.5% alcohol
This sweet and tang, exceptional-value riesling is light-yellow hued in the glass and balanced on a pin on the palate. It bathes the palate with a wash of lime cordial, piquant spice and lemon curd. It’s light-medium bodied with good mouthfeel and lingering, off-dry finish and aftertaste that’s crisp and refreshing. Pour with spiced Asian cuisine like pad Thai, mou shu pork or General Tso’s chicken. (Vic Harradine)
• The following wines from Tawse Winery can be purchased by the case for daily home, office or restaurant delivery online at Tawse Winery, by email This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. or by phone +1 (905) 562 9500 or for pick up by the bottle or case at the winery 3955 Cherry Ave, Vineland ON. Here’s a map.
• The following 2016 Tawse Winery ‘Carley’s Block’ Riesling was sourced from older vines with some dating back 1976, making them 40 years old when fruit in this wine was harvested. ‘Carly’ is owner Murray Tawse’ daughter.
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Tawse Winery ‘Carley’s Block’ Riesling 2016
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $38.95 10.0% alcohol
The mineral-laced aromas of lime and petrol notes provide segue to medium-bodied, gorgeously textured mouthfuls of lime-soaked Granny Smith apple with wisps of white nectarine and yellow plum persisting through the palate and finish. This is tantalizing and absolutely delicious on its own and pairs well with charcuterie board or lightly spiced Asian food or sushi. My highest compliment—this was tough to spit. (Vic Harradine)
• The following 2016 Tawse Winery ‘Limestone Ridge-North’ Riesling is certified organic/biodynamic and sourced from 17-year-old vines from which fruit for this wine was hand-harvested.
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Tawse Winery ‘Limestone Ridge-North’ Riesling 2016
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $25.95 10.0% alcohol
Flint-mineral aromas mingle with lime and beeswax on the nose. It surges over the palate with a bracing, palate-dazzling stream of lime zest and ripe pineapple mingling with minerality. It’s medium-weight and nicely textured riding a stream of tangy acidity from twist top to last drop. Pour with briny oysters, sushi or prawn and scallop ceviche. (Vic Harradine)
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Tawse Winery ‘Redfoot Vineyard’ Pinot Gris 2017
VQA Lincoln Lakeshore $27.95 12.5% alcohol
Honeydew melon, apricot and wisps of spice aromas precede a mid-weight, nicely textured flow of ripe apple and pear interwoven with notions of spice while white grapefruit pith makes a formidable appearance on the back palate and aftertaste. This pours particularly well with fish tacos or crab cakes. (Vic Harradine)
• The following 2015 Tawse Winery ‘Quarry Vineyard’ Pinot Noir was sourced from their estate, organic/biodynamic-farmed Quarry Road vineyard.
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Tawse Winery ‘Quarry Vineyard’ Pinot Noir 2015
VQA Vinemount Ridge $35.95 (307686) 12.5% alcohol
This showcases deft balance, depth, complexity, elegance and persistent purity of fruit. Exotic spice, grilled savoury herbs and red cherry/berry fruit aromas abound. It bathes the palate with a lively luscious stream of ripe red cherry, cranberry and red currant framed by excellent spice and tang then underpinned by supple tannin. It finishes with palate replays on the lingering aftertaste. Pour with duck confit and oven-roast fries. (Vic Harradine)
Cheers, Vic, Lisa, Louise