Newsletter June 3, 2018
All wines reviewed below that are in this June 9, 2018 Vintages Release are also available online; want to know more about ordering and/or delivery? See page 31 in June 9, Vintages Release catalogue for mobile devices and/or Read this.
Newsletter Highlights include:
- New in wineries and private order – there are myriad interesting, value-laden wines in the latter half of the newsletter. Many are bespoke, limited-production wines that will never make their way to LCBO shelves. These are wines sold through Canadian wineries and Private order wines through agents that will be delivered to your home or office.
- Exceptional-value wine
– 9 of 61 wines will soon be available at LCBO retail meeting strict quality-price guidelines. A further 2 directly from wineries and 4 available through Private Order from an agent are available for delivery directly to your home or office and found after the Vintages Release. These wines range from $13.95 to $21.95 and are found throughout the newsletter easily identified via the exceptional-value checkmark above. Strict guidelines? Click here. - 95 and over – only one wine scored 95 points or over - Peter Lehmann ‘The Barossan’ Shiraz 2015 @ $21.95 and found under Australia: Red Wine.
- Vic Picks – Gérard Bertrand ‘Grand Terroir - Tautavel’ Grenache/Syrah/Carignan 2015 @ $18.95 earned 90 points and found under France: Red Wine; Dievole Chianti Classico 2014 @ $22.95 earned 92 points and found under Italy: Red Wine; Bodegas Altanza ‘Lealtanza’ Crianza 2014 @ $17.95 earned 90 points and found under Spain: Red Wine and, of course all the exceptional-value wines.
Identify the LCBO store nearest you with stock of any wine with an LCBO product number by clicking on the number shown in brackets in wine reviews then clicking on ‘Select Stores’ and entering your postal code—the number of bottles available in stores near you is displayed—or by clicking ‘Check all stores’ where you’ll see stock available in all LCBO stores. For Vintages Release wines, stock should be displayed the Friday before a Saturday release, updated every 24 hours, some stores post earlier. LCBO Portfolio wines (wine not in Vintages) should always closely reflect stock in stores, updated every 24 hours. However, it’s always best to phone stores before making a trip.
June 9, 2018 Release
Fortified Wine: Port
87
Warre’s Warrior ‘Finest Reserve’ Ruby Non-Vintage
DOP, Douro. Portugal $19.95 (197202) 20% alcohol
Aromas of mocha, dark berry fruit and raisined notes precede a sweet, warm flow of prune and cooked fruit flavours interwoven with piquant spice and mineral notes. On the back palate bramble berry jam and grilled herbs come to the fore. More complex than many Ruby Port, this ends with a notion of bittersweet chocolate. Pour with blue cheese or chocolate dessert. (Vic Harradine)
Fortified Wine: Sherry
92
Emilio Lustau ‘East India Solera’ Sherry Non-Vintage
DO Jerez, Spain $25.95 500 mL (342931) 20%lcohol
When you spot ‘Lustau’ on a Sherry label, it’s akin to a gold seal of approval. This perennial favourite is showing toffee, raisin and caramel on the nose coupled with a most scrumptious mélange of sweet fig, raisin and nutty flavours. Dense and intense, deftly balanced, the effect is amazing. Serve this dessert wine slightly chilled; either on its own or matched with crème caramel, crème brûlée or any manner of dark spiced fruit cake. (Vic Harradine)
Sparkling Wine
85
Oyster Bay Sparkling Cuvée Rosé Non-Vintage
New Zealand $21.95 (280172) 12.0% alcohol
This attractive pink-hued sparkler is fashioned from 20% hand-harvested pinot noir and 80% low-yielding chardonnay, fermented in the Charmat, a.k.a. Cuve Close, method. It hustles from the bottle with an energetic mousse and aromas of red berry fruit and spice with hints of brioche. It delivers spirited and lively flavours of citrus and red currant interwoven with sweeter and riper cherry on the lip-smacking aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)
87
Luc Belaire ‘Rare’ Sparkling Rosé Non-Vintage
France $39.95 (395384) and 1500 mL $99.95 (540104) 12.5% alcohol
This is available in 750 mL bottles and in magnums at 1500 mL – magnum-sized bottles cellar longer. This deep-salmon, syrah/cinsault/grenache blend offers quite intense aromas of red fruit garnished with dried herbs and flowers. It’s dry and mid-weight with red fruit flavours accented by supple, persistent mousse. The tasty field berry flavours linger on the lively finish—sip and savour. (Susan Desjardins)
91
Segura Viudas ‘Heredad Reserva’ Brut Cava Non-Vintage
DO Cava, Spain $32.95 (558825) 12.0% alcohol
Golden, with a green hue, this limited-production Cava, a blend of first pressing of estate-grown Macabeo and Parellada, displays depth and lovely balance. Intense aromas of pear, citrus and toasted butter pastry entice. Dry, bright and fresh, it has refined creamy mousse and lively, crisp texture. Rich flavours of Bosc pear and lemon-lime wash across the palate lingering on a clean, persistent finish. A sparkling wine of presence and weight, it presents well as a gift or served at any holiday gathering. (Susan Desjardins)
Ontario: White Wine
90 
Tawse ‘Sketches of Niagara’ Riesling 2016
VQA Niagara Peninsula $18.95 10.0% alcohol
This is an excellent example of fine, cool-climate Riesling. It jumps from the glass with piquant minerality, citrus notes and flecks of petrol. It dishes up a lively, racy streak of palate-bathing, lemon-lime tang and hints of passionfruit nicely balanced with ripe stone fruit—yellow peach and Mirabelle plum. This is medium weight with good mouthfeel and a dry, lip-smacking finish and aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)
Ontario: Red Wine
89
Tawse Gamay Noir 2016
VQA Niagara Peninsula $18.95 (322545) 12.5% alcohol
An involved nose of peppery spice, red cherry with gamy and earthy notes announce a lovely mouthful of gamay on the palate with ripe strawberry and black raspberry intertwined with black licorice and peppery notes galore. This is well paced with medium weight, medium texture and excellent fruit and tang balance on the finish and aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)
California: Red Wine
92
Raymond ‘Reserve Selection’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2015
Napa Valley $44.95 (715979) 14.5% alcohol
This matured 20 months in 100% French oak, 31% new. Aromas of black currant, tarry notes and black licorice abound. It’s a full-Monty cab reserve with full body, fully textured with gorgeous fruit-forward flavours of bramble berry and dark cherry gushing over the palate adorned with baking spice, sweet vanilla and anise. It dishes up still-evolving tannin on the finish and aftertaste. Pop corks 2020 – 2026 with a fine cut of grilled steak. (Vic Harradine)
89
Seven Deadly Red 2015
Lodi $24.95 (570473) 15.0% alcohol
There’s nothing subtle about this ‘Wine of the Month’. This big bomb of a red blend looks like purple ink in your glass then fills the air with aromas of strawberry jam, oak, and spice. It’s full bodied and fully textured with bold flavours of sour cherry and mint and finishes with good structure from slightly chewy tannin. This is a perfect match for grilled pork ribs with tangy BBQ sauce. (Dave Isaacs)
94
Stag’s Leap ‘Artemis’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2015
Napa Valley, California $84.95 (708982) 14.5% alcohol
This is rich, ripe and raring to go. Aromas of black currant and dark cherry interplay with hints of mint and savoury notes on the nose. It blankets the palate with a silky-smooth wash of briary berry and juicy black plum flavours along with cassis and kirsch liqueur. This showcases good balance, density and plenty of pizzazz. It’s lively throughout with excellent tang, good structure, purity of fruit and charm. Drinking well now after a two-hour decant, especially when paired with grilled back ribs. (Vic Harradine)
Washington State: Red Wine
• Fruit—87% cabernet sauvignon/6% merlot/4% syrah/1% malbec/1% cabernet franc/1% petit verdot—for the following 2015 Chateau Ste. Michelle cabernet sauvignon was sourced in the warmest growing season on record in Washington State.
91
Chateau Ste. Michelle Cabernet Sauvignon 2015
Columbia Valley $21.95 (269357) 13.5% alcohol
There are aromas of ripe berry fruit, spice box and cherry galore. It bathes the palate with a nicely balanced river of boysenberry jam and ripe black currant adorned with dark bittersweet chocolate and wisps of espresso roast. It’s medium bodied with good texture and a finish marked by oaky notes—it matured 14 months in French and American oak, 32% new—and an underpinning of still-resolving tannin that’s easily ameliorated by a three-hour aeration/decant. (Vic Harradine)
Argentina: Red Wine
93
Kaiken ‘Las Rocas - Ultra’ Malbec 2015
Mendoza $19.95 (50849) 14.5% alcohol
This perennial favourite dishes up a full-bodied, generously textured mouthful of ripe dark fruit and a boatload of glorious tang at a terrific price. Black Bing cherry and juicy black plum mingle with balancing pomegranate decorated with mixed spice on the palate. The cherry and plum replay on the finish is bolstered by juicy tang, firm structure, baking spice and dark coffee. Pour with a thick, rare-grilled beef tenderloin. (Vic Harradine)
Australia: Red Wine
95
Peter Lehmann ‘The Barossan’ Shiraz 2015
Barossa, South Australia $21.95 (522235) 14.5% alcohol
This envelops the palate with a stunning wash of delectable ambrosia—ripe red and black fruit, baking spice, sweet vanilla and savory herbs. It’s full bodied with generous mouthfeel, good purity of fruit, complex and structured. It finishes in a blaze of red cherry and black plum interwoven with cassis and mocha. Pick up a few. (Vic Harradine)
89
The Black Chook Shiraz/Viognier 2016
McLaren Vale/Padthaway, South Australia $18.95 (66738) 14.5% alcohol
This opens with aromas of dark berry fruit with hints of black plum, black licorice and floral notes before a deluge of stewed, bramble berry fruit and black plum compote blanket the palate mingling with dark chocolate, kirsch liqueur and sweet vanilla flavour. This is full bodied and creamy smooth on the palate and fully fruited on the extended finish. Pour with grilled back ribs mopped with spicy barbecue sauce. (Vic Harradine)
90
Yalumba ‘The Scribbler’ Cabernet/Shiraz 2014
Barossa, South Australia $23.95 (165811) 14.5% alcohol
Inky/opaque in the glass, aromas of black currant and red cherry mingle with mixed spice and sprigs of herbs on the nose. Crunchy red fruit—pie cherry passionfruit and cranberry—stimulate the palate on entry nicely balanced with black raspberry and hints of blueberry on the back palate. This has good depth, complexity and oodles of charm. A three-hour aeration/decant will ameliorate the tannin underpinning. Pour with grilled beef tenderloin. (Vic Harradine)
South Africa: White Wine
88
L’Avenir ‘Far and Near’ Chenin Blanc 2017
WO Stellenbosch $15.95 (556365) 13.5% alcohol
Exotic spice aromas mingle with ripe pineapple and rosewater on the nose of this mid-weight, nicely textured chenin blanc. It rolls over the palate with flavours of honeycomb, a tropical fruit salad and good citrus tang on the back palate and finish. This sips nicely on its own or paired with chicken pot pie. (Vic Harradine)
France: White Wine
89
Gérard Bertrand ‘Réserve Spéciale’ Viognier 2015
IGP Pays d’Oc $14.95 (147975) 12.5% alcohol
Glorious aromas leap from the glass with honeyed pit fruit, ripe tropical fruit and soft citrus to the fore. It’s full bodied, fully textured and full flavoured mandarin orange, sweet, ripe tropical fruit, grilled pineapple and very soft wisps of citrus notes. It’s a tad short on acidity, but still worth a buy. Serve chilled as a welcoming, deck-sitting wine or pair with spicy chicken wings or maple-syrup brushed, cedar-planked and grilled smoked salmon. (Vic Harradine)
• The following 2016 La Guardiense ‘Janare Senete’ Falanghina was sourced from 100% Falanghina, a grape indigenous to Italy and widely grown in Campania, where this is from; it earned 3 glasses (out of three) from influential Gambero Rosso.
92
La Guardiense ‘Janare Senete’ Falanghina 2016
DOP Falanghina del Sannino $18.95 (556787) 13.5% alcohol
Aromas of apple, sprigs of savory herbs and pear provide segue to a lively mouthful of blood orange, lemon curd and saline minerality on the palate persisting through the finish and aftertaste. It’s quite weighty with good mouthfeel and plenty of pizzazz throughout. Pour with grilled, poached or pan-seared seafood. (Vic Harradine)
France: Red Wine
90
Château du Chatelard ‘Cuvée Les Roches’ Morgon 2015
AOC Morgon $24.95 (558528) 14.5% alcohol
This gamay was sourced from Morgon, one of the ten Crus areas of Beaujolais; it matured 10 months in oak barrel. Given the 14.5% hi-octane alcohol, it’s surprisingly smooth, balanced and easy to drink. There’s lots going on here with plenty of depth and concentrated flavours of black briary berry and black plum interwoven with racy tang—pie cherry and cranberry—on the palate and finish. This has good weight and texture with an underpinning of ripe, supple tannin. Serve after a two-hour aeration/decant over the next four years. (Vic Harradine)
94
Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2015
AOC Châteauneuf-du-Pape $93.95 (711317) 14.5% alcohol
Serious collectors, connoisseurs and red-wine lovers like you and me, anxiously await each vintage of this classic red blend. Aromas of berry fruit, smoky and floral notes, black licorice and spice box precede a palate-blanketing surge of black currant and black cherry intertwined with peppery spice, dark bittersweet chocolate and local savory herbs—aka garrigue. This is fully fruited and full bodied with creamy mouthfeel and lengthy finish laced with still-evolving tannin. Pop corks 2022 to 2030. (Vic Harradine)
• Grapes for the following 2015 Gérard Bertrand ‘Grand Terroir - Tautavel’ Grenache/Syrah/Carignan were sourced near the steeped-in-history village of Tautavel on south-east facing, pebble-strewn vineyards and limestone-rich terraces; 33% of wine matured in barrel, the balance in large vats.
90
Gérard Bertrand ‘Grand Terroir - Tautavel’ Grenache/Syrah/Carignan 2015
AOP Côtes du Rousillon-Villages, Tautavel $18.95 (272575) 14.5% alcohol
Ripe, juicy dark bramble berry fruit, mixed spice and mocha spill from this medium-full bodied, beautifully textured gem. Flavours of cassis, kirsch liqueur and red and black cherry interlace with hints of licorice, mineral notes, grilled herbs and excellent tang. This is dense and complex with good balance and lengthy finish and aftertaste. Pour with barbecued meats or hearty vegetarian cuisine. (Vic Harradine)
Italy: Red Wine
91
Banfi Brunello di Montalcino 2012
DOCG Brunello di Montalcino $29.95 375 mL (175091) 14.0%
This is orange-hued and brimming with aromas. The nose offers blue and black fruit, pipe tobacco and mixed spice. It bathes the palate with a mid-weight, well-textured stream of racy red cherry and tangy cranberry sauce that persists through the dry, mouth-watering aftertaste. Given this is 375 mL, it will mature more quickly than a 750 mL; pop corks 2019 to 2024 and pour with hearty stew like osso buco after a two-hour aeration/decant. (Vic Harradine)
• For a bit of wine trivia, the history of Dievole goes back to May 10, 1090. The following 2014 Dievole Chianti Classico is a red blend—90% sangiovese/6% canaiolo/4% colorino—sourced from 10 to 15 year-old-vines. First fermented with indigenous yeast and after malolactic conversion, wine matured 14 months in 41 hL, non-toasted, French oak casks sourced from Allier forests then a further three months in bottle before release.
92
Dievole Chianti Classico 2014
DOCG Chianti Classico $22.95 (444448) 13.5% alcohol
Intense aromas of piquant spice, iodine and red cherry abound. A lively wash of ripe red cherry, racy red currant and black plum wash over the palate medium bodied, nicely textured, robed in excellent tang. This is balanced on a pin, showcasing persistent purity of fruit and a lingering, mouth-watering aftertaste of palate replays. It was tough to spit. Pour with beef and mortadella meatballs in tomato sauce. (Vic Harradine)
90
Remo Farina Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico 2014
DOCG Amarone Della Valpolicella $42.95 (995910) 15.0% alcohol
A red blend of indigenous grapes—50% corvina/20% corvinone/20% rondinella/10% molinara, Oseleta, Turchetta—this fills the room with delectable flavours of ripe bramble berry, raisin tart and cola notes. It blankets the palate medium-plus bodied with creamy smooth mouthfeel and a boatload of warm comforting flavour—fig, dark cherry and black currant intertwined with excellent tang, grilled smoky herbs, mixed spice and mocha. It finishes lengthy and luxurious. (Vic Harradine)
Spain: Red Wine
• The Hernández family produced this 2014 Alejandro Hernández ‘Condado de Haza’ Crianza from sustainably farmed fruit and following meticulous winemaking practices of patriarch, Alejandro Hernández. This matured eight months in fine-grain, 225- and 300-L neutral American oak barrels then bottled neither fined nor filtered.
92
Alejandro Hernández ‘Condado de Haza’ Crianza 2014
DO Ribera del Duero $28.95 (963348) 14.5% alcohol
This was sourced from 100% tempranillo grown at approximately 800 M a.s.l. matured 18 months in American oak barrel and a further six months in bottle before release. Intensely perfumed aromas of red cherry/berry, sprigs of herbs, floral notes and sharp spice abound. A mid-weight, generously textured flow of red, crunchy berry fruit mingles with notions of cherry cordial and black plum jam on the palate persisting through the long finish. There’s good structure and depth with an underpinning of ripe, supple tannin. Pour with prawn and chorizo paella after a two-hour aeration/decant. (Vic Harradine)
90
Bodegas Altanza ‘Lealtanza’ Crianza 2014
DOCa Rioja, Spain $17.95 (114835) 13.5% alcohol
Alluring aromas of dark cherry, mixed spice and black licorice waft easily from this creamy-smooth, nicely textured gem. It washes over the palate balanced and beautiful with lively red fruit flavours—currant and cranberry—decorated with herbs and wisps of mineral notes. There’s very tasty and persistent purity of fruit and a long, lip-smacking finish, Pour with phyllo triangle-pockets stuffed with bobotie. (Vic Harradine)
New in Vintages
89
Baron de Hoen Pinot Blanc Réserve 2016
AC Alsace $13.95 (446419) 12.0% alcohol
Fresh aromas of Asian pear, lime zest and mineral notes introduce this lesser known nonetheless classic Alsatian white. Tangy white grapefruit, green apple and ripe pear wrapped in a round mouthfeel delights the palate. Medium-light bodied with a dry mineral finish, this patio sipper delivers more than its price tag and is an excellent partner to a quiche Lorraine. (Louise Boutin)
93
Lungarotti ‘Rubesco - Vigna Monticchio’ Riserva 2010
DOCG Torgiano Rosso $46.95 (51771) 14.5% alcohol
Sourced from low-yielding, 100% sangiovese, this iconic gem is considered one of Italy’s top reds. Cedar, cassis and briary berry fruit aromas abound on the alluring nose. It explodes on the palate with a full-bodied, fully textured gusher of black Bing cherry, mocha, black licorice and oodles of racy, tang and minerality interwoven with piquant spice and drying tannin. Better served after a three-hour aeration/decant; best served 2020-2026. (Vic Harradine)
New in the LCBO
89
Château des Charmes ‘Estate Grown & Bottled’ Sauvignon Blanc 2017
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $15.95 (391300) 12.5% alcohol
Intense aromas of gooseberry, tropical fruit and white citrus abound. It bathes the palate with a balanced wash of sweet fruit and tang—white nectarine meets Key lime and mineral notes... it’s love at first sight. This is full of value, light-medium bodied with excellent flavour throughout, a lingering, refreshing finish and plenty of charm. Pour as a delightful sipper or paired with olive-oiled mesclun greens under crumbled chèvre or full deli board. (Vic Harradine)
• The following 2016 Château des Charmes ‘Estate Grown & Bottled’ Cabernet-Merlot is 40% cabernet franc/40% cabernet sauvignon/20% merlot and spent 9 months maturing in seasoned French oak, no new.
88
Château des Charmes ‘Estate Grown & Bottled’ Cabernet-Merlot 2016
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $15.95 (556951) 13.0% alcohol
Dark cherry, grilled herbs and exotic spice aromas provide segue for a smooth, mellow flow of balanced flavours with red cherry, bramble berry and excellent tang coalescing on the palate, persisting through the dry, mid-length finish and aftertaste. It’s medium weight with structure and plenty of pairings—grilled red meat, roast chicken or pork, red pizza, fajitas or mac and cheese. (Vic Harradine)
87
Henry of Pelham Riesling 2017
VQA Niagara Peninsula $14.95 (268375) 11.5% alcohol
This pours with lively aromas of honeyed orchard fruit, citrus notes and a bit of spritz. Sweet and tang develop on the palate, first with flavours of ripe pit fruit then soft citrus notes of lemon pie filling and Key lime yoghurt. It’s light-medium bodied with good mouthfeel and a lengthy dry, mouth-watering aftertaste. Pour alongside white 3-cheese pizza or deli platter. (Vic Harradine)
88
Red House Wine Cabernet/Shiraz 2017
VQA Niagara Peninsula $13.95 (219030) 13.5% alcohol
This nifty red blend—67% cabernet franc/17% shiraz, 16% cabernet sauvignon—offers aromas of Christmas cake spice, red cherry and balsamic notes. It blankets the palate with intense, dense flavours—black currant jam, plum compote and mincemeat adorned with notions of dark toast. It finishes balanced, full of flavour and excellent tang. Pour with comfort food—home-grilled burgers, red pizza, grilled gourmet sausage or beef fajitas. (Vic Harradine)
88
Southbrook ‘Connect – Organic’ White 2017
VQA Ontario $15.95 (249078) 11.0% alcohol
The quality-price ratio here skews well in your favour. The organic blend — 48% vidal/35% riesling/16% chardonnay musqué—offers a shy nose of pear, apple juice and white flower notes. On the first sip, the zippy acidity teases the tip of the tongue until delicious layers of pear, peaches and apple compote flavours spread over the palate with chalky mineral notes trailing in the dry finish. Totally enjoyable on its own, it also pairs well with a Cobb salad. (Louise Boutin)
New in Okanagan Valley Wineries
• Order the following Culmina Family Estate wines (plus Culmina wine in the recent, archived online, May 6, 2018 newsletter) to be shipped to your home or office in most provinces, including Ontario, via this link - Culmina Family Estate Winery.
91
Culmina Family Estate ‘R & D – White Blend’ 2017
VQA Golden Mile Bench, Okanagan Valley $19.00 14.0% alcohol
This value-laden chardonnay/riesling/gewürztraminer/viognier blend introduces itself with alluring aromas of rosewater, exotic spice, honeysuckle and Key lime. It’s full bodied and fully textured with a creamy smooth gusher enveloping the palate with tang-infused flavours of lemon pie filling, pineapple and wisps of white grapefruit persisting through the dry, lip-smacking finish—crisp and refreshing. Pour alongside pan-seared tuna, ceviche or grilled calamari. (Vic Harradine)
92
Culmina Family Estate ‘R & D – Rosé Blend’ 2017
VQA Golden Mile Bench, Okanagan Valley $19.00 13.5% alcohol
Peach-blush hued, this merlot/malbec/cabernet sauvignon blend blossoms from the glass with aromas of strawberry and red cherry. It bathes the palate with a lively wash of pink grapefruit, blood orange, mineral notes and piquant spice. This is good weight and nicely textured with a solid line of citrus tang throughout. It finishes clean crisp and invigorating. Perfect for sipping, while pan-seared salmon or a deli platter are both inspired pairings. (Vic Harradine)
90
Culmina Family Estate ‘Saignée’ 2017
VQA Golden Mile Bench, Okanagan Valley $24.00 14.0% alcohol
This oeil-de-pedrix - hued Rosé is a blend of 56% merlot/19% cabernet sauvignon/14% malbec/11% cabernet franc. Lively aromas of freshly picked strawberry, watermelon and sharp spice unleash an intense flow of red currant, mineral notes and tang-laden ruby red grapefruit on the palate persisting through the lip-smacking finish and aftertaste. This is medium-plus bodied and fully textured providing delightful pairings to white pizza or olive-oiled arugula and crumbled chèvre. (Vic Harradine)
• The following 2015 Culmina Family Estate Merlot underwent 100% malolactic conversion, maturing 16 months in 100% French oak barrel, 20% new/60% one-year old.
93
Culmina Family Estate Merlot 2015
VQA Golden Mile Bench, Okanagan Valley $39.00 14.0% alcohol
Sexy aromas of alluring dark bramble berry, cola, sweet vanilla and spirit-soaked Christmas cake spice flourish on the nose of this spice-infused, intensely flavoured merlot. It envelops the palate with grainy tannin, rich lashings of black currant, black juicy plum and pie cherry tang. This is full bodied and generously textured showcasing deft balance, persistent purity of ripe fruit, depth, concentration and a lengthy, luscious finish. Better aerated/decanted for three hours; best careful cellaring 2019 to 2024. Stunning wine. (Vic Harradine)
• The following 2015 Culmina Family Estate Cabernet Sauvignon underwent 100% malolactic conversion, maturing 16 months in 100% French oak barrel, 50% new/30% one-year old.
91
Culmina Family Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2015
VQA Golden Mile Bench, Okanagan Valley $39.00 14.0% alcohol
Espresso roast, cedar and grilled herb aromas on the nose, this blankets the palate full bodied and fully textured. It offers concentrated flavour of tangy bramble berry, cassis, oaky notes and drying tannin. The finish and aftertaste linger with berry fruit, racy tang and chalky tannin. This deserves more time in bottle, handsomely repaying careful cellaring and patience—pop corks 2020 to 2025. When ready, pair with well-seasoned, rare-grilled, skirt steak. (Vic Harradine)
New in Ontario Wineries
• Order the following three wines for delivery to home, office or restaurant from Closson Chase by phone 1.888.201.2300 or email This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. or pick them up from the winery 629 Closson Road, Hillier, Ontario K0K 2J0 an easy 2 or so hour drive, or less, from the GTA or Ottawa and environs. Here’s a map.
Fruit for the following 2016 Closson Chase ‘Vineyard’ Chardonnay was hand-harvested from 2 vineyards—75% South Clos/25% Churchside sourced from low-yielding, hand harvested vines, barrel fermented and matured in French oak, only 10% new. Twist caps now to 2022.
91
Closson Chase ‘Vineyard’ Chardonnay 2016
VQA Prince Edward County $29.95 (148866) 13.3% alcohol
Baked custard, an oaky note or two and exotic spice aromas provide segue to a medium-weight, beautifully textured stream of pure ambrosia with apple pie spice, lemon curd and orchard fruit flavours—yellow peach, white nectarine and ripe pear—gliding over the palate mellow and smooth. It finishes with replays adorned with ginger snap and lip-smacking tang and acidity. Gorgeous now, will improve over the short term and pours well with roast chicken or pork, or duck confit. (Vic Harradine)
• The following 2016 Closson Chase ‘South Clos’ Chardonnay is quite stunning and will fully integrate the oak in a short few months. Hand-harvested, single vineyard, low-yielding chardonnay (1.2 tonnes/acre) was barrel fermented in barrique and matured 16 months in French oak, 20% new, with good ageing potential, it was sealed under cork.
92
Closson Chase ‘South Clos’ Chardonnay 2016
VQA Prince Edward County $39.95 13.3% alcohol
Piquant spice, oaky notes and notions of slate/mineral tones precede a medium-full-bodied, generously textured flow of ripe orchard fruit spice-laden apple, pear and yellow plum interlaced with tangy lemon pie filling on the palate persisting through the lingering, mouth-watering finish decorated with sharp spice. This showcases deft balance, ripe fruit, judicious use of oak, depth and complexity. It requires another few months in bottle to really strut its stuff, but my, oh my, is it good now. Pop corks now to 2024. (Vic Harradine)
• Fruit for the following 2016 Closson Chase ‘Vineyard’ Pinot Noir was sourced from two separate, premium, estate vineyards—90% Churchside/10% South Clos. It saw minimal time in French oak, only 10% new.
92
Closson Chase ‘Vineyard’ Pinot Noir 2016
VQA Prince Edward County $29.95 (145888) 12.3% alcohol
Lightly hued in the glass, aromas of cherry cola, beetroot and mixed spice abound. It bathes the palate with a fruit-forward, balanced wash of raspberry/rhubarb flavours adorned with ripe sweet red plum, mixed Indian spice and pleasant tang and acidity throughout. It has good mouthfeel, shows finesse and elegance, has persistent purity of fruit, is delicious from twist top to last drop and has great appeal when sipped on its own or poured with smoked duck breasts or pan-seared salmon. (Vic Harradine)
• Order the following wine by the case for delivery to home, office or restaurant in Ontario online from Featherstone Estate Winery or pick up a bottle or case at the winery at 3678 Victoria Ave, Vineland, ON. Here’s a map.
• The following 2017 Featherstone Estate Winery Sauvignon Blanc was hand harvested, hand sorted, whole-bunch pressed and 20% barrel fermented; the balance in stainless steel tank and held a short 36 hours on gross lees. Initial aromas of rosewater and tropical fruit belie the fact this is 100% cool-climate, sauvignon blanc. However, bottom line is… it’s excellent value and delicious wine.
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Featherstone Estate Winery Sauvignon Blanc 2017
VQA Niagara Peninsula $17.95 (89011) 13.0% alcohol
Tropical fruit and rosewater aromas interweave with notions of melon and gooseberry before dishing up a lovely river of ripe pit fruit—nectarine, peach and yellow plum—and a racy line of delectable lemon-lime tang. It’s light-medium bodied with good mouthfeel, persistent purity of fruit and a superb crisp and refreshing finish and aftertaste. Pour on its own or with sushi or olive-oiled arugula under cubed chèvre. (Vic Harradine)
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Featherstone Estate Winery ‘Four Feathers’ 2017
VQA Niagara Peninsula $14.95 (341586) 12.7% alcohol
Delicate aromas of ripe pineapple, floral notes and soft spice introduce a sweet-tinged wash of ripe apple, peach and pear followed by a racy streak of tang with white grapefruit and wisps of mandarin orange to the fore. This is nicely balanced with lots of pizzazz. It’s medium-weight with texture, good focus and a lengthy lip-smacking aftertaste. Pour with grilled or skillet-seared seafood. (Vic Harradine)
• Order the following by the case for daily office or home delivery direct from the winery using this link - Rosehall Run - or pick it up from the cellar door on your next visit to the winery in Prince Edward County. It’s just over a two-hour drive from the GTA or Ottawa via the 401. Here’s a map.
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Rosehall Run ‘Estate - Hungry Point’ Pinot Gris 2017
VQA Prince Edward County $24.95 12.0% alcohol
Aromas of baking spice, honey, ripe apple and pear unleash a mid-plus weight, creamy-smooth mouthful of ginger-infused green apple and a surge of racy lemon and grapefruit tang interwoven with slate minerality. The mouth-watering finish replays palate flavours decorated with pithy notes and lime cordial on the aftertaste. A couple more months in bottle won’t hurt, although it’s drinking well now, especially poured with lemon chicken or white pizza. (Vic Harradine)
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Rosehall Run ‘Estate - Hungry Point’ Unoaked Chardonnay 2017
VQA Prince Edward County $24.95 12.0% alcohol
This tang-laden beauty was sourced from 10- to 15-year-old, estate, dry-farmed vines with 25% chardonnay musqué. Aromas of flinty minerality, green apple, floral notes and citrus swirl from the glass. Tart apple and racy citrus acidity bolt across the palate infusing the lip-smacking finish and aftertaste along with flecks of orchard fruit and saline minerality. Pour with freshly shucked briny oysters, sushi or prawn ceviche. (Vic Harradine)
• The following Rosehall Run flagship white wine, the 2016 Rosehall Run ‘JCR – Rosehall Vineyard’ Chardonnay, was sourced from estate grown, 14 and 15-year old vines fermented in 500 L puncheons of tight- and extra-tight-grained French oak, 60% new. It matured 16 months on its lees with infrequent batonage, aka stirring.
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Rosehall Run ‘JCR – Rosehall Vineyard’ Chardonnay 2016
VQA Prince Edward County $34.95 13.0% alcohol
Baked apple and pit fruit aromas spill from the glass. A rush of tang-laden citrus and green pineapple streak over the palate interwoven with mineral tones, Key lime and yellow plum. It’s quite balanced on the palate and finishes crisp, clean, refreshing. This showcases wonderful focus; it’s linear, but not lean, along with good balance and exhilarating finish. Pour with freshly shucked briny oysters or California sushi rolls. (Vic Harradine)
• Order the following wine by the case for home, restaurant or office delivery in Ontario online from Southbrook Vineyards or phone toll free: 1 888 581-1581 or pick up a bottle or case from the winery at 581 Niagara Stone Road, Niagara-on-the-Lake, ON. Here’s a map.
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Southbrook Syrah Rosé 2017
VQA Four Mile Creek $26.75 11.5% alcohol
A muted nose awakens after a vigorous swirl to reveal aromas of watermelon, strawberry and fermentation notes. Tart flavours – cranberry, rhubarb and red cherry take the lead on the palate until meeting with mineral notes and tannin which add interesting structure to this organic and biodynamic certified medium-light bodied rosé. Refreshing on its own or paired with a selection of appetizers. (Louise Boutin)
86
Southbrook ‘Organic – Triomphe’ Cabernet Franc Rosé 2017
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 11.4% alcohol
This rosé is a blend of 85% cabernet franc and 15% merlot. It’s salmon-peach hued, with aromas of strawberry and earthy notes. It’s medium bodied and slightly tart with a wisp of tannins. The strawberry flavours linger on the finish. Enjoy with crisp, summer salmon salad. (Dave Isaacs)
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Southbrook Wild Ferment Chardonnay 2016
VQA Four Mile Creek $39.80 13.0% alcohol
This wild-yeast fermented organic and biodynamic chardonnay is blended with 13% semillon. Quite oaky on first nosing, it becomes subtle with a few swirls. It showcases aromas of peach, red apple, vanilla, honey and toasty notes. A warm, almost peppery wash of orchard fruit flavours flood the palate carried by persistent acidity leading to a vanilla, apple and nutmeg dry finale. Medium-full bodied, it’s delicious with hearty homemade mac & cheese. (Louise Boutin)
89
Southbrook ‘Organic - Triomphe’ Riesling 2016
VQA Niagara Peninsula $22.85 11.0% alcohol
This is pale-yellow hued with a tinge of green like a golden delicious apple. Tantalizing aromas of nectar, honey, stewed pears and beeswax abound. It’s medium bodied and tart with just a touch of off-dry sweetness. Flavours of apple and grapefruit fade away on the palate to an interesting sharp bite on the finish. This will develop nicely over next four years, but can also be enjoyed now—try pairing with pork chops and applesauce. (Dave Isaacs)
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Southbrook ‘Organic - Triomphe’ Cabernet Franc 2016
VQA Niagara Peninsula $24.75 12.5% alcohol
This is a blend of 88% cabernet franc/8% merlot/4% Cabernet Sauvignon with fascinating aromas of dried wood, cherry, moss and mint leaves. It’s medium bodied with a good balance of acid along with tannin growing on the palate over time. Flavours of cherry dominate the finish with a trace of stemmy notes and mineral chalkiness. Aerate/decant a couple of hours pairing with medium-rare, grilled steak. (Dave Isaacs)
91
Southbrook Farms ‘Organic - Triomphe’ Chardonnay 2016
VQA Niagara Peninsula $24.95 13.0% alcohol
Exotic spice, wisps of smoky oak and sweet vanilla aromas provide segue to a racy river of lime-drizzled crab apple jelly and notions of Mirabelle plum caressing the palate infusing the lengthy, mouth-watering finish. This is medium-weight with creamy-smooth mouthfeel and plenty of tang throughout. Pour with ceviche, sushi, pan-seared or grilled seafood. (Vic Harradine)
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Southbrook Farms ‘Organic - Triomphe’ Merlot 2016
VQA Niagara Peninsula $29.95 12.5% alcohol
Seductive aromas of sandalwood, exotic spice and dark berry fruit aromas abound. It bathes the palate with myriad ripe fruit flavours—plum, cherry, blueberry, black currant—intertwined with racy tang and oaky notes on the back palate and aftertaste. This is medium-full bodied with good texture, depth and complexity. Pour with grilled rack of lamb. (Vic Harradine)
New in Private Order
• Order the following wines by the case for home, restaurant or office delivery in Ontario from VinoLuna wine agency. Contact via VinoLuna website, by Email at This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. or in the GTA phone 416 587-6691.
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Provolo ‘Campotorbian’ Valpolicella Ripasso Superiore 2012
DOC Valpolicella Ripasso, Italy $19.95 14.0% alcohol
Smoky notes and pipe tobacco provide segue for a rich, ripe and luscious wash enveloping the palate and infusing the lingering finish and aftertaste—dried currant, dark raisin and fig interlaced with espresso roast and dark chocolate. It’s mid-plus weight with silky smooth mouthfeel and fully flavoured from cork pop to last drop. Just about as good as Ripasso gets at this or double the price. (Vic Harradine)
• Fruit for the following 2015 Vaucher Père et Fils Fleurie was sourced from 100% gamay in Fleurie—one of the 10 Beaujolais Crus—hand-harvested and underwent whole-bunch, carbonic maceration then maturation in stainless steel tank, no oak.
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Vaucher Père et Fils Fleurie 2015
AOC Fleurie, France $16.95 12.5% alcohol
With aromas of floral notes and whiffs of berry fruit on the nose, this rolls over the palate with red currant and passionfruit flavours interwoven with ripe juicy plum, peppery spice and hints of black currant jam. It’s medium weight with good mouthfeel and plenty of oomph. There’s very good value, excellent tang and a lengthy, mouth-watering finish and aftertaste. Pour with baked, stuffed green peppers or charcuterie board. (Vic Harradine)
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Château Haut-Maziéres 2016
AOC Bordeaux, France $14.95 12.5% alcohol
Floral, cedar and whiffs of minty red cherry aromas herald a mouthful of flavour on the palate with red cherries dipped in milk chocolate shining through. This is balanced on a pin with ripe fruit and tangy acidity galore. It’s straightforward, medium bodied with good texture and dry lip-smacking finish. Pour alongside grilled burgers, meat-laden pizza or pasta in tomato sauce. (Vic Harradine)
86
Château Le Mayne-Cabanot 2016
AOC Bordeaux, France $15.95 12.5% alcohol
This good-value red blend—60% merlot/30% cabernet sauvignon/10% cabernet franc offers a nose of cedar, mocha and smoky note aromas. A tart flow of pie cherry and red currant envelops the palate along with an underpinning of still-evolving tannin and excellent tang. This is mid-weight with purity of fruit, structure and a gusher of tang. Pour alongside Swiss steak or pasta puttanesca after a two-hour decant/aeration. (Vic Harradine)
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Châteaux Ramafort 2010
AOC Medoc, France $24.95 13.5% alcohol
Aromas of smoke, oak and toasty bits intertwine with soft notes of floral and pipe tobacco on the nose. A medium-full bodied wash of dark, bittersweet chocolate and bramble berry blanket the palate with gusto supported by notions of cassis and kirsch liqueur. This is nicely structured with good balance, purity of fruit and a lengthy integrated finish and aftertaste with plenty of life remaining. Pour with osso buco, rack of lamb or cassoulet. (Vic Harradine
87
Bodegas Ugalde ‘Ugalde’ Tempranillo 2017
DOCa Rioja, Spain $14.95 13.5% alcohol
Red berry fruit, spice box and floral notes abound. It streaks over the palate with crunchy pie cherry and red raspberry flavours robed in good acidity and tang. This is medium weight with a tang-laden, mouth-watering finish and aftertaste. Serve with spaghetti Bolognese, red pizza or prawn and chorizo paella. (Vic Harradine)
89
Ventana Garnacha 2016
DO Navarra, Spain $14.95 13.5% alcohol
Black raspberry, dark plum and balsamic note aromas transition easily to a medium-plus bodied, creamy-smooth, palate-bathing wash of sweet vanilla, red currant tang and passion fruit flavour with softer, ripe black plum. This is lively and full of tang with a lengthy lip-smacking finish. Pour with Swiss steak or lamb tagine. (Vic Harradine)
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Ventana Tempranillo 2016
DO Navarra, Spain $14.95 13.5% alcohol
Intense aromas of fig and medicinal cherry notes introduce a fully flavoured mouthful of cranberry and pie cherry robed in a boatload of racy tang. This is medium-full bodied with good texture and lengthy, drying, fruit-forward finish and aftertaste. Aerate/decant a couple of hours before service alongside a well-seasoned, rare-grilled steak. (Vic Harradine)
91
Domaine de Vervine Vacqueyras 2015
AOC Vacqueyras, France $23.95 14.0% alcohol
Aromas of ripe, dark cherry/berry fruit and peppery spice are precursors to a mouthful of über-ripe black plum, kirsch liqueur, savory herbs and warm peppery notes persisting through the finish and aftertaste. It’s medium-full bodied with good texture and lengthy balanced aftertaste. This pours particularly well with beef fajitas, spicy ribs, spicy wings, or grilled burgers; it has good heft and soft acidity melding with the very ripe fruit on the finish. (Vic Harradine)
Cheers, Vic, Louise, Dave, Lisa