May 21, 2018 Newsletter
Newsletter Highlights include:
Feature 1 – Noble Estates Wine and Spirits – Louise and Vic recently attended a well-curated tasting offered by Noble Estates Wine and Spirits. You can order these wines for delivery to your home, office or restaurant, White, rosé, sparkling and red wines from California, France, Italy, New Zealand, Ontario, Oregon and Spain are featured. Click here to read reviews and how to order.
Feature 2 – Malbec – with help of various Ontario wine agents and the ‘Wines of Argentina’ representative here in Canada, Louise, Dave and Vic tasted through eighteen Argentine malbec wines from various altitudes, diurnal patterns, soil types and areas in and around Mendoza. We found amazing consistency in quality and were surprised and pleased at how they stacked up for value. They are almost all available for purchase now or in the near future. Click here to see all the malbec reviews.
- Exceptional-value wine – a total of 82 wines are reviewed below; 5 of 48 wines reviewed from this release plus 13 of 34 wines reviewed following the release meet the strict quality-price guidelines. They range from $9.95 to $36.95 and are found throughout the newsletter easily identified via the exceptional-value checkmark above. Strict guidelines? Click here.
- 95 and over – only one wine from this Vintages Release scored 95 points or over – Mullineux ‘Old Vines’ White 2016 @ $36.95 found under South Africa: White Wine.
- Vic Picks – Mullineux and Leeu ‘Kloof Street - Swartland Rouge’ 2016 scored 93 points @ $19.95 found under South Africa: Red Wine; Allegrini ‘Palazzo Della Torre’ 2014 scored 92 points @ $24.95 found under Italy: Red Wine; Luis Cañas Crianza 2014 scored 92 points @ $18.95 found under Spain: Red Wine and, of course, all the exceptional-value wine reviewed.
- Vic Picks in Feature Wines – El Esteco ‘Don David’ ‘High Altitude - Reserve’ Malbec 2016 scored 92 points @ $15.95 found in Feature 2 – Malbec; Casa Vinicola Botter ‘Appassimento’ Primitivo Rosso 2015 scored 92 points @ $19.95 found in Feature 1 - Noble Estates Wine and Spirits, and of course, all the exceptional-value wine reviewed.
Identify the LCBO store nearest you with stock of any wine with an LCBO product number by clicking on the number shown in brackets in wine reviews then clicking on ‘Select Stores’ and entering your postal code—the number of bottles available in stores near you is displayed—or by clicking ‘Check all stores’ where you’ll see stock available in all LCBO stores. For Vintages Release wines, stock should be displayed the Friday before a Saturday release, updated every 24 hours, some stores post earlier. LCBO Portfolio wines (wine not in Vintages) should always closely reflect stock in stores, updated every 24 hours. However, it’s always best to phone stores before making a trip.
May 26, 2018 Vintages Release
Icewine
89
Pondview ‘Gold Series’ Vidal Icewine 2015
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 200 mL (390351) 10.5% alcohol
This is pale-gold in colour with aromas of clover, apricot, and apple pie. It's full bodied and syrupy sweet with flavours of dried apricot and apple, trailing off to a fruit-forward finish. Pour a couple of glasses to sip then use this as an ingredient in the winery's own Vidal Icewine Apple Chutney recipe. (Dave Isaacs)
Champagne
89
Charles Mignon ‘Premium Réserve’ Champagne Brut Non-Vintage
AOC Champagne $49.95 (421032) 12.0% alcohol
A 60% pinot noir, 20% chardonnay, 20% pinot meunier blend produced this lively, fruity Champagne. There are aromas of green apple, Bosc pear, red berries with a squeeze of lemon followed by delicate floral notes on the nose. Ripe red apple, grapefruit, hints of spice and toast coat the palate. Dry, medium-bodied with a creamy texture, it finishes with mouth-watering acidity and fine, persistent bubbles. (Lisa Isabelle)
89
Taittinger ‘Prestige’ Rosé Brut Champagne Non-Vintage
AOC Champagne $79.95 (993113) 12.5% alcohol
This offers a profusion of mousse, flavours of red fruit, candied palate notes and crisp, clean finish. Aromas of red berry fruit, baking brioche and wisps of minerality precede an explosion of bubbles, first in the glass, second on the palate. Red currant and cherry cordial flavours intertwine with tangy acidity and plenty of pizzazz on the palate, finish and mouth-watering aftertaste. Pour with freshly shucked briny oysters or prawn ceviche. (Vic Harradine)
Sparkling Wine
91
Cave Spring Blanc de Blancs Brut Non-Vintage
VQA Niagara Escarpment $29.95 (213983) 12.0% alcohol
Apple, pear and floral aromas introduce this; it’s flavourful and oozing with charm and elegance. Lemon/grapefruit acidity electrifies the palate riding a serious profusion of fine-bead bubbles. Green apple and melon join the palate flavours just before the monumentally long finish and aftertaste clicks in—crisp, refreshing and lip-smacking good. The price-quality balance tips well in your favour. (Vic Harradine)
93
Peller Estates ‘Ice Cuvée’ Rosé Non-Vintage
VQA Niagara Peninsula $35.75 (113035) 12.0% alcohol
A lovely salmon pink, this versatile sparkler combines Chardonnay and Pinot Noir as the base wine with a dash of icewine. It displays sweet, almost honeyed, red berry fruit on the nose. Just off-dry due to dosage with Cabernet Franc and Vidal icewine, it has a fine, light mousse and replays the lively berry flavours on the palate—think of sun-kissed, field-ripe strawberries and juicy, ripe currant. It’s refreshing with a hint of sweetness that lingers on the finish. This is bound to be a crowd-pleaser. (Susan Desjardins)
91
Domaine Ste-Michelle Brut Sparkling Non-Vintage
Columbia Valley, Washington $21.95 (557637) 12.5% alcohol
Sharp-edged aromas of racy citrus, leesy notes and orange zest bubble from the glass with gusto. It explodes on the glass with myriad fruit flavours—Granny Smith apple, tropical fruit, white nectarine and pear—mingling with saline-tinged minerality and a boatload of tang and charm. It has good depth, deft balance and persistent purity of fruit from cork pop to last drop. Give it a go with seafood appetizers or lemon chicken. (Vic Harradine)
90
Krone ‘Borealis ‘Vintage Cuvée’ Brut Sparkling 2016
WO Tulbagh, Central Coast, South Africa $18.95 (556654) 11.5% alcohol
Buttered toast and leesy note aromas introduce palate flavours of lemon-lime and ripe apple with an overlay of slate minerality delivered on a bed of fine-bead bubbles. There’s very good mouthfeel and a crisp, lip-smacking finish. Pour alongside grilled calamari rings or pan-seared tilapia. This punches well above the price. (Vic Harradine)
88
Pierre Sparr ‘Brut’ Rosé Crémant d’Alsace Non-Vintage
AOC Alsace $19.95 (39016) 12.0% alcohol
Pale-salmon hued and crafted from pinot noir, the delicate aromas of red field berries come through on the crisp, bright and fresh palate. Just off-dry, light-medium bodied and fruity, it delivers fine mousse and lively acidity. A refreshing and delightful choice. (Susan Desjardins)
90
De Grenelle ‘Grande Cuvée’ Saumur Blanc Sparkling Non-Vintage
AOC Loire, France $21.95 (545830) 12.5% alcohol
This chenin blanc/chardonnay blend is light on its feet with delicate aromas of citrus, wood smoke and mineral on the nose. It streaks over the palate with plenty of tang carried along on flavours of crisp, green apple, lemon curd and hints of brioche. It finishes with a white grapefruit nip on the finish and aftertaste. Pour as a refreshing sipper or with lighter-styled appetizers. (Vic Harradine)
90
Loosen Bros. ‘Dr. L.’ Sparkling Riesling Non-Vintage
Deutscher Sekt $14.95 (296095) 12.0% alcohol
Producing this off-dry wine in the Charmat method ensures the character of the grape shines through. It’s seen in the lovely aromas of stone fruit, slate, sweet citrus and subtle white flowers. Clean and fresh in texture, this displays a fine, persistent, palate-cleansing mousse. There’s great intensity of ripe fruit on the palate with vibrant notes of lemon-lime and mineral, melon and white peach, the finish accenting the refreshing, lively texture. A well-crafted Sekt for any occasion – sip or serve with light appetizers. (Susan Desjardins)
89
Rechsteiner Di Florian Von Stepski-Doliwa Brut Prosecco Non-Vintage
DOC Prosecco Spumante, Italy $15.95 (548214) 11.5% alcohol
This was sourced 100% from Glera grapes, the accepted name since 2009 for grapes that were previously called Prosecco. It’s a friendly, pleasing sparkling wine that opens with a gentle, delicate nose of savoury herbs and lemon zest. It bathes the palate with soft bubbles and a crisp refreshing taste of citrus, pear and peach. Give this a go with a wide variety of dishes—light appetizers or seafood—or happily sip on its own. (Vic Harradine)
90
Hola! Brut Cava Non-Vintage
DO Cava, Spain $16.95 (545848) 11.5% alcohol
This was sourced from the holy trinity of Cava grapes—macabeo 30%, zarello 40%, parellada 30%. An unusual appellation, DO Cava does not refer to any geographical boundaries, but rather is a regulation that protects the way the wine is produced. An elegant swath of aromas float from the glass with apple, pear and apricot in the mix along with sharp lemon. It’s generous on the palate with creamy smooth texture, good balance and a refreshing finish decorated with lemon and grapefruit tang. Pour on its own or with sushi or ceviche. (Vic Harradine)
Ontario: Red Wine
89
Henry of Pelham Estate Pinot Noir 2015
VQA Short Hills Bench $24.95 (268391) 13.5% alcohol
Medium-pale red with a slight orange tinge, this has notes of dried fruit, cherry jam and smoke on the nose. It's dry, light bodied, and tart on the palate with sour cherry and tannin that starts in the background and then slowly moves forward. There’s a lengthy tang-laden finish. It pairs well with cherry-glazed duck breast. (Dave Isaacs)
90
Westcott ‘Temperance’ Red 2016
VQA Vinemount Ridge, Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (469189) 12.5% alcohol
Savory herb and black berry aromas provide segue to a delicate, elegant wash of red and dark cherry bathing the palate intertwined with grilled herbs, pie cherry and oodles of tang. This is mid weight with creamy-smooth mouthfeel and a dry, balanced and mouth-watering finish and aftertaste. Pour with coq au vin. (Vic Harradine)
California: White Wine
88
Emmolo Sauvignon Blanc 2015
Napa Valley $24.95 (96016) 12.5% alcohol
This light-on-its-feet sipper is almost clear in the glass. Aromas of grassy notes, piquant spice and citrus dominate the nose transitioning nicely into palate flavours of lemon curd, peppery bits and tropical fruit. These replay on the aftertaste along with edgy mineral tones, Delicious poured on its own, it pairs well with pan-seared fresh fish or grilled calamari. (Vic Harradine)
88
Robert Mondavi Fumé Blanc 2015
Napa Valley $22.95 (221887) 14.5% alcohol
Grilled savory herbs and piquant spice box aromas introduce palate-enveloping flavours via a medium-full bodied river of lemon-lime cordial and flecks of minerality enhanced by sprigs of mixed herbs. There’s considerable tang throughout and although the alcohol is getting up there, this wine easily handles it. It finishes tangy and lip-smacking good; give it a go with grilled tuna. (Vic Harradine)
California: Red Wine
93
Bootleg Red 2013
Napa County $49.95 (462820) 15.0% alcohol
If the striking label doesn’t alert you, the aromas and flavours will; this is sublime. There’s persistent purity of fruit, complexity, depth and charm galore. Sprigs of herbs and bramble berry fruit aromas leap from the glass preceding a full-bodied, fully textured gusher of palate-coating flavour—black currant, dark Bing cherry and cassis mingling with sweet vanilla, fennel and milk chocolate—that sashay across the palate, finish and aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)
93
Emmolo Merlot 2015
Napa Valley $69.95 (96024) 14.9% alcohol
This 100% merlot is sourced from vineyards in the Oak Knoll area. It’s striking with its deep purple colour announcing concentrated aromas and flavours. Ripe purple plum, dark cherry and blackberry with sweet smoke and vanilla aromas abound. A gusher of ripe and juicy, dark fruit flavours complemented with bitter chocolate and fragrant baking spice wrapped in polished tannin offer both structure and softness in the long, fruit-forward finish. This is a beautiful expression of the varietal and pairs perfectly with grilled beef tenderloin garnished with blue-veined cheese. (Louise Boutin)
91
Kendall-Jackson ‘Grand Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2014
Sonoma County $39.95 (678615) 14.5% alcohol
Here’s a brawny California cab with aromas of mixed spice and herbs, black cherry and wisps of black licorice. It cuts a wide swath over the palate with depth, balance, plenty of texture and oomph—black currant and blueberry flavours interwoven with kirsch liqueur, pencil shavings and vanilla abound. It’s full bodied and generously textured with a lingering, fruit-forward finish and aftertaste. Pour with the grilled burgers or steaks you like to pull off the barbeque. (Vic Harradine)
92
Robert Mondavi ‘Maestro’ 2014
Napa Valley $59.95 (459933) 14.5% alcohol
This red blend—73% cabernet sauvignon, 23% cabernet franc plus an even splash of merlot and petit verdot—is dense and complex on the palate. Aromas of mixed field berry fruit, piquant spice and tobacco leaf herald a full-bodied, generously textured mouthful of flavour with cherry, currant and cassis to the fore decorated with notions of spice, forest floor and minerality. It finishes lingering and luscious with palate replays. (Vic Harradine)
90
Cloudline Cellars Pinot Noir 2015
Willamette Valley, Oregon $28.95 (159970) 13.5% alcohol
This Willamette pinot fulfills its mandate to be in a crowd-friendly, drink-me-now style showcasing prominent fruit flavours with complexity. Aromas of red berry fruit, spice cake and earthy notes unleash a mid-weight, smooth-textured stream of crunchy red cherry, spice-infused black berry decorated with delightful tang; it blankets the palate and infuses the lengthy, balanced finish. This pours well on its own or paired with roast chicken, turkey or pork. (Vic Harradine)
Argentina: Red Wine
• The following 2015 Susan Balbo ‘Signature’ Malbec is an inspired, great value, flavour-packed choice for a Vintages ‘Wine of the Month’ selection.
90
Susana Balbo ‘Signature’ Malbec 2015
Uco Valley, Mendoza $19.95 (79798) 14.5% alcohol
Spice-infused aromas of fig, raisin and red cherry abound. A sweet, ripe, medium-plus bodied, nicely textured and concentrated wash of black currant, dark plum jam and raisin tart coats the palate adorned with oodles of excellent tangy acidity. This is well balanced and ready to drink with a price-quality ratio skewed well in your favour. It works well with grilled back ribs mopped in spicy barbecue sauce. (Vic Harradine)
Argentina: Rosé Wine
91
Susana Balbo ‘Signature’ Rosé 2017
Uco Valley, Mendoza $20.95 (493130) 13.0% alcohol
This medium-plus weight, textured Rosé offers aromas and flavours of herbs, spice, cherry and strawberry. It hits the palate full speed with a barrelful of juicy tang and fresh, crunchy, high-toned flavour from pie cherry, freshly sliced strawberry, savory herbs and piquant spice. There’s more of the same on the lengthy finish and aftertaste. This has the flavour, balance and heft to pair with roast chicken or turkey, pan-seared salmon or charcuterie board. (Vic Harradine)
Australia: White Wine
91
Vasse Felix ‘Filius’ Chardonnay 2017
Margaret River, Western Australia $26.95 (416511) 12.5% alcohol
Piquant spice, citrus, melon and ginger snap aromas open this lightly oaked chardonnay—eight months in French barriques, only 15% new. A bracing line of nerve and verve streak across the palate with flavours of lemony grapefruit, sharp spice and pit fruit. It’s lighter styled with plenty of flavour, character and élan. Pour with roast pork or lemon chicken. (Vic Harradine)
Australia: Red Wine
90
Two Hands ‘Sexy Beast’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2016
McLaren Vale, South Australia $27.95 (219469) 13.8% alcohol
Charred toast, graphite and aromatic bitters aromas mingle with dark berry fruit and spice on the nose of this full-bodied, nicely textured Aussie cab. It rolls over the palate in layered waves with black Bing cherry, chalky bits and dark bittersweet chocolate to the fore. It finishes with a dollop of drying tannin. Better opened in 2019 and beyond, it pours well now after a three-hour aeration/decant and placed alongside grilled-rare, well-seasoned striploin. (Vic Harradine)
88
Vasse Felix ‘Filius’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2015
Margaret River, Western Australia $26.95 (559872) 14.0% alcohol
Smoke, burned toast and medicinal cherry aromas dominate the nose on this tang-laden, entry-level red. There’s 14% malbec in here that was aged, along with the cab, for 12 months in French oak, 13% new. Flavours of dark and red cherry meld with spice and earthy notes on the palate. It finishes mid-length with drying tannins crunchy red fruit with loads of acidity. Aerate/decant three hours before service. This pours well with pasta puttanesca. (Vic Harradine)
New Zealand: White Wine
87
Villa Maria ‘Cellar Selection’ Sauvignon Blanc 2017
Marlborough, South Island $21.95 (974527) 12.5% alcohol
Grassy, herbal and orchard fruit aromas open the door to a racy, fairly thin wash of gooseberry and melon then pungent white grapefruit flavours that bathe the palate infusing the mid-length finish and aftertaste. It would pair well with olive-oiled arugula and radicchio under grilled and crumbled chèvre. (Vic Harradine)
South Africa: White Wine
• The following 2016 Mullineux ‘Old Vines’ White is a blend of 62% Chenin Blanc (from 38-year-old vines)/15% Grenache Blanc/11% Viognier/8% Clairette Blanche/4% Semillon Gris that was whole-bunch pressed, wild yeast and barrel fermented, left on lees until (their) spring. Maturation was for 11 months in French oak barrel, 20% new. The wine underwent malolactic conversion and bottled unfiltered. Mullineux recommends consuming within three years of bottling after an aeration/decant.
95
Mullineux ‘Old Vines’ White 2016
WO Swartland $36.95 (556597) 13.0% alcohol
Wisps of savoury herbs, mixed spice and honeysuckle aromas precede a focused cluster of dazzling flavours tumbling over the palate—honey-tinged lime, pineapple and grapefruit melding with notions of mixed savoury herbs and flinty minerality. This is full bodied and fully textured with a lengthy finish and aftertaste enhanced with excellent tang, a note of grapefruit pith and mineral notes. (Vic Harradine)
South Africa: Red Wine
93
Mullineux and Leeu ‘Kloof Street - Swartland Rouge’ 2016
WO Swartland $19.95 (460964) 13.5% alcohol
This is excellent value from twist top to last drop. Lively, fresh aromas of red berry fruit, sprigs of herbs and baking spice leap from the glass of this delicious red blend—94% syrah/4% cinsault/2% carignan—that was sourced from sustainably managed vineyards and matured 11 months in seasoned French oak barrel. The fruit-forward palate flavours—crunchy red berry fruit, ripe dark bramble berry fruit and piquant peppery spice—are balanced on a pin, creamy-smooth textured and oozing charm and finesse. It finishes with good tangy acidity and an underpinning of supple, ripe tannin. Pour with grilled, seasoned striploin. (Vic Harradine)
France: White Wine
89
E. Guigal Côtes du Rhône Blanc 2015
AOC Côtes du Rhône $19.95 (290296) 13.5% alcohol
This is a white blend of 65% viognier, 15% roussanne, 8% marsanne, 8 % clairette, 2% bourboulenc, and 2% white grenache. It's pale gold in colour, with aromas of honeysuckle and orange. There’s a full bodied creamy texture with flavours of green apple along with excellent tang of acid carrying the apple flavour through the lingering finish. It’s a good match for Asian dishes with a touch of sweet curry. (Dave Isaacs)
France: Rosé Wine
88
Château Saint Roche ‘Le Rosé’ 2017
AOP Côtes du Roussillon $17.95 (557900) 12.0% alcohol
This is lightly coloured with alluring aromas of local herbs, floral notes, spice and citrus. It’s an easy-going Rosé that’s sensibly priced. Palate flavours are also in the easy-going zone with ruby red grapefruit and soft pie cherry leading the way. It’s light-medium bodied and nicely textured with a tart, tangy finish and aftertaste. Pour this with pan-seared salmon or with a charcuterie board. (Vic Harradine)
• The following 2017 Château de Berne ‘Terres de Berne’ Rosé is an exceptional-value Vintages ‘Wine of the Month’ selection; Côtes de Provence wines are primarily Rosé with a small production of reds and even smaller percentage of whites.
90
Château de Berne ‘Terres de Berne’ Rosé 2017
AOP Côtes de Provence $17.95 (278861) 12.5% alcohol
Spice and strawberry aromas introduce this well-balanced salmon-pink Rosé. It slides over the palate with spirited tang from orange rind and red grapefruit plus plenty of ripe fruit flavour—black plum, strawberry and red cherry—adorned with sprigs of herbs and a sprinkling of mixed spice. It’s nicely balanced with a tang-laden finish and aftertaste. Overall, it’s simply delicious. Pour with roast chicken, grilled salmon or deli platter. (Vic harradine)
France: Red Wine
89
Domaine Lafage ‘Tessellae - Vieilles Vignes’ Carignan 2015
IGP Côtes Catalanes $18.95 (343509) 14.5% alcohol
This was sourced from 70-year-old vines of 100% indigenous carignan delivering loads of ripe black fruit aromas—freshly homemade black plum jam, blackberry, blueberry and a fresh whisper of licorice. The fruity palate is charming while the spicy pepper notes and grippy tannins make their presence known later to reveal this full-bodied red’s true structured and muscular personality. Aerate/decant three hours to enjoy now and on to 2024 with a juicy, rare-grilled prime rib. (Louise Boutin)
Italy: Red Wine
89
Tenuta Sette Ponti ‘Crognolo’ 2015
IGT Toscana $33.95 (727636) 14.0% alcohol
Aromas of red and dark berry fruit swirl from the glass with notions of spice and herbs before the palate’s treated to a rich, fruit-driven flow of briary berry, juicy black Bing cherry and piquant/peppery spice blanketing the palate. This is medium-full bodied with firm texture and a finish and aftertaste displaying a sharp herbal bite along with drying tannins. Aerate/decant for three hours or pop corks 2019-2023. (Vic Harradine)
90
Lungarotti ‘Rubesco’ Sangiovese/Colorino 2014
DOC Rosso di Torgiano $18.95 (368548) 13.5% alcohol
The black currant, herb and mineral aromas provide segue for a creamy-smooth, medium-full bodied mouthful of red raspberry, blueberry and tangy red currant decorated with herbs and spice that spill over the palate full bodied and generously textured. It showcases balance, purity of tangy red fruit and firm, but acceptable tannin underpinning. The finish is dry and mouth-watering good. (Vic Harradine)
92
Allegrini ‘Palazzo Della Torre’ 2014
IGT Veronese $24.95 (672931) 13.5% alcohol
Toast/oaky aromas mingle with raisin and bright, evergreen needles on the nose before releasing a tangy line of red currant and cranberry flavour on the palate intertwined with soft, ripe black cherry and dried currant. This is medium-plus bodied with smooth texture, balance, complexity and structure with good purity of fruit and oodles of charm. It lingers luxuriously on the finish. (Vic Harradine)
88
Zeni Marogne Ripasso Valpolicella Superiore 2014
DOC Valpolicella Ripasso Superiore $17.95 (220830) 14.0% alcohol
Delicate aromas of berry fruit and floral notes open the lighter-styled Ripasso. It delivers a palate-bathing stream of sweet, kirsch liqueur, cherry pie filling, spice box and racy tang adorned with spice and mocha. It finishes with replays on the dry, mouth-watering aftertaste. This pours well with pasta Bolognese and pasta puttanesca. (Vic Harradine)
89
Tedeschi ‘Capitel Nicalo’ 2015
IGT Rosso delle Venezie $17.95 (984997) 13.5% alcohol
This will certainly cause a stir at backyard gatherings given the full-fruit flavour and attractive price point. Aromas and sweet flavours—ripe black plum and sweet briary berry—intertwine with dark chocolate and sweet vanilla on the palate persisting through the lengthy finish and aftertaste. This could pair with chocolate dessert or grilled pork bellies with spicy barbecue sauce. (Vic Harradine)
Spain: Red Wine
87
Bodegas del Rosario ‘Lorca’ Monastrell 2009
DO Bullas $15.95 (552901) 15.0% alcohol
Delicate aromas of smoke, toasty notes and mixed field berry fruit mingle with wisps of spice on the nose of this medium-weight, medium-textured monastrell, aka mourvèdre. Racy red fruit—red currant and sour cherry—meet ripe black currant black plum compote on the palate making for a well-balanced, pleasing partnership of flavours. This is well structured and tangy mingling with peppery spice on the finish. Pour with prawn and chorizo paella (Vic Harradine)
92
Luis Cañas Crianza 2014
DOCa Rioja $18.95 (336719) 14.0% alcohol
This blend of predominantly tempranillo, with garnacha, from vines that average over 30 years old, spent 12 months in 60% French oak and 25% American before bottling. Intense aromas of red cherry, strawberry, baking spice and vanilla emerge from the glass. Dry, medium-full bodied, the lively, fresh fruit character replays on the palate while sweet spice and an herbal note linger on the lengthy aftertaste. This would be delicious with grilled chorizo sausage. (Lisa Isabelle)
‘Our Wine Country’ boutique wines
• The following four wines from Ontario are found in the LCBO’s ‘Our Wine Country’ boutiques in 20 select stores and the Vintages sections of 12 select Ottawa- and Toronto-area stores. Find stores online via the Vintages site and clicking on ‘Ontario Wines’ then ‘our wine country boutiques’ or simply click here.
91
Pondview ‘Bella Terra’ Cabernet Franc 2013
VQA Four Mile Creek, Niagara-on-the-Lake $39.95 (546739) 14.5% alcohol
Aromas of dark berry fruit, tapenade, grilled herbs and cedar unleash a rich, luscious stream of balanced and beautiful palate flavour with black briary berry, red cherry, black plum and earthy bits to the fore. It’s bold and brawny throughout—full bodied, fully textured, with depth and concentration of flavour. The finish lingers with supple tannin, balance and charm; it’s delicious. (Vic Harradine)
92
The Foreign Affair Riesling 2013
VQA Niagara Peninsula $23.95 (127290) 11.8% alcohol
Piquant spice, racy citrus and wisps of petrol and saline minerality abound. On the palate, this is off-dry with sweet and tang delivered by yin and yang flavours—soft, sustain flavours of white nectarine and apricot juxtaposed with assertive, racy lemon curd and grapefruit. It finishes harmonious and balanced-on-a-pin. Pour with spicy Asian cuisine like General Tso’s chicken, Pad Thai or charcuterie. (Vic Harradine)
88
Rockway Vineyards ‘Small Lot Block 11-140) Cabernet Franc 2015
VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara Escarpment $24.95 (346239) 13.5% alcohol
Smoky notes, pipe tobacco and cherry/berry aromas make way for a racy flow of pie cherry, tart red currant and pomegranate interwoven with ripe dark cherry and sprigs of savory herbs. It’s medium-plus bodied with good mouthfeel and lots going on in the finish with dark berry fruit, oodles of tang, savoury herbs and peppery spice. Pour with well-seasoned roast beef. (Vic Harradine)
89
Rockway Vineyards ‘Small Lot Block 150-183’ Riesling 2015
VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara Escarpment $19.95 (424176) 10.0% alcohol
Aromas of orchard fruit and sharp mineral notes on the nose herald a light-on-its-feet, off-dry riesling focusing on racy acidity—lemon, lime and grapefruit—rescued by residual sugar on the palate. It provides a dry lip-smacking finish garnished with melon and nectarine. Spicy Asian cuisine is an easy match while sushi and grilled calamari rings are more inspired choices. (Vic Harradine)
‘Flagship Exclusives’ wines
• The following four wines are ‘Flagship Exclusives’ that can be purchased online or in the largest LCBO stores. You can order these wines online at lcbo.com or through their app.
90
Canvasback Cabernet Sauvignon 2014
Red Mountain, Yakima Valley, Washington $54.95 (467795) 14.5% alcohol
Spice, vanilla and berry fruit aromas on the nose, this dishes up a boatload of flavour and racy tang. Palate-coating flavours of black Bing cherry, dried currant and blueberry are persistent and focused infusing the firm, lengthy finish and dry, mouth-watering aftertaste. It’s medium-plus weight with good texture and pours extremely well with rare-grilled flank steak. Aerate/decant a couple of hours before serving. (Vic Harradine)
92
Château Juvénal ‘La Terre du Petit Homme’ 2015
AOC Ventoux, Rhône $27.95 (490672) 15.0% alcohol
This is a 50/50 split of grenache/syrah, concentrated and complex with purity of fruit, balance and more than its fair share of elegance and charm. Aromas of red berry fruit, mixed spice and herbs abound. A smorgasbord of flavour blankets the palate full bodied with creamy smooth mouthfeel—black currant, cassis and kirsch liqueur interlaced with peppery spice and earthy notes. Palate flavours persist through the long, dry tannic-tinged finish. Aerate/decant three hours and pair with well-seasoned, grilled rare to medium-rare, beef tenderloin. (Vic Harradine)
90
Domaine Saint-Préfert’ Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2015
AOC Rhône $67.95 (539973) 15.0% alcohol
This is a spunky red with rich and luscious fruit flavour, great balance, structure and excellent acidity. Sharp spice, red cherry/berry and floral aromas reveal a nicely balanced flow of palate coating flavour—tangy raspberry and red cherry intertwine with black licorice, cassis and kirsch liqueur. It’s medium-plus bodied and nicely textured with good tang on the long, dry finish. Serve alongside Swiss steak or cassoulet. (Vic Harradine)
94
Marchesi Di Barolo ‘Sarmassa’ Barolo 2013
DOCG Piedmont $77.95 (337048) 14.0% alcohol
This is firm and focused with good structure, lively fruit and lingering lip-smacking finish. Aromas of toasty notes, mocha, floral and sandalwood give way to a fruit-forward stream of red and black cherry, spice box and flecks of earthiness. This is medium-plus weight with good texture and lingering dry finish of racy red currant and cranberry that’s crisp and tang-laden. Aerate/decant two hours before pouring with boeuf bourguignon or steak Diane.
Upstream in winecurrent
Vintages Release: July 21, 2018
92
Pyros Malbec ‘Barrel Selected 160’ Malbec 2014
Pedernal Valley, Argentina $25.95 (555813) 14.5% alcohol
This malbec has a Venetian flair reminiscent of Amarone with its dry prune, raisin, burnt sugar, licorice and dark fruit aromas. One year of maturation in barrel, half American, half French, plus one year of bottle maturity turn this into a potpourri of complex flavours —dry cherry, prune, dry figs, baking spice and tangy, earthy, aged balsamic vinegar notes are a feast for the palate from start to finish. This is full bodied with balance and fine grippy tannins suggesting potential for cellaring. It’s an excellent after-dinner sipper or a delicious partner to lamb tajine with prunes. Aerate/decant two hours, pour now to 2024. (Louise Boutin)
Vintages Release: August 18, 2018
• The following 2016 Viña Cobos ‘Felino’ Malbec was sourced from hand-picked, late-ripening fruit at approx. 700 m to 1200 m a.s.l. in the semi-desert, premium growing areas of Luján de Cuyo and Valle de Uco. It was fermented with native and commercial yeasts in closed top stainless tanks and bottled unfined.
92
Viña Cobos ‘Felino’ Malbec 2016
Mendoza, Argentina $19.95 (118067) 14.0% alcohol
This is quite elegant and excellent value. Aromas of fresh red berry fruit, dark plum, pencil shavings and vanilla abound. It bathes the palate with a lively fresh, high-toned flow of pie cherry and red currant interlaced with bramble berry, blueberry and kirsch liqueur adorned with white pepper notes, mocha and oodles of tang. This is mid-full bodied with textured mouthfeel and a lingering, lip-smacking finish and aftertaste. It’s deftly balanced with good depth and plenty of charm. (Vic Harradine)
Vintages Release: September 15, 2018
91
Achaval Ferrer Malbec 2016
Mendoza $29.95 14.5% alcohol
This wine is dark red, almost opaque, with a nose of cherry, bacon, and tobacco with hints of dry earth and violets. It’s medium-light bodied on the palate with a wonderful tartness and significant, well-integrated tannins. There are flavours of vanilla, strawberry, mint and thyme that coalesce into a long finish dominated by dried herbs and vanilla. It’s perfectly matched with Beef Daube Provençal. (Dave Isaacs)
New in Vintages
• The Bodega Tinto Negro portfolio has a collection of four malbecs from La Finca La Escuela with all situated at an altitude of 4000 meters in the Andes mountains. The wines are vinified and aged in the same manner with the only variable being the vineyard parcels from which the grapes are harvested. Within 7.5 hectares, there are four distinct soil types—gravel, silt, stone and sand. This is intended to show how this signature Argentine grape express itself with distinctive characteristics and unique personalities fashioned only by the soil in which the vines grow. Discover the 2014 ‘La Grava’ below, a malbec grown in gravelly soil that showcases the fruity character of this varietal.
91
Finca La Escuela ‘La Grava’ Malbec 2014
Mendoza $24.95 (547851) 13.5% alcohol
Another excellent ‘Wine of the Month’ selection, this high-altitude malbec has an expressive nose driven by aromas of ripe blueberry, blackberry, crushed raspberry, espresso bean and rose petal. Freshness of fruit on the silky-textured palate blossoms forth as flavours of raspberry, juicy black cherry and tangy red plum. This is medium-bodied with melted, soft tannin, stony minerality and a medium-long, dry fruity finish. Versatile at the table, it pairs well with Cumin-scented Couscous Royale. (Louise Boutin)
• The following 2015 Catena ‘High Mountain Vines’ Malbec is a Vintages Essentials wine always available in select stores.
• Fruit was sourced from the Catena Zapata family’s prized, high mountain vineyards, wild yeast fermented and matured 12-14 months in new and seasoned oak barrels.
90
Catena Malbec ‘High Mountain Vines’ 2015
Mendoza, Argentina $19.95 (478727) 13.0% alcohol
This is very good value. Aromas of baking spice peppery notes and black cherry provide segue for a rich, luscious stream of palate-coating, creamy smooth black currant and cassis flavours interwoven with savoury herbs. It’s medium-plus weight with soft tannin underpinning and plenty of mouth-watering tang, depth, complexity and a lengthy finish. Aerate/decant for two hours pouring with a premium cut of grilled beef. (Vic Harradine)
• The following 2015 Luigi Bosca Malbec is a Vintages Essentials wine always available in select stores.
91
Luigi Bosca Malbec 2015
Mendoza $18.95 (452672) 13.7% alcohol
This marvellously enjoyable wine has a nose of dried plum, cherry, leather, and spice. It’s medium bodied with well integrated tannins and flavours of blackberry jam, plum, cherry, and vanilla. There’s a luscious balance of acidity that carries a finish of sour cherry, mint, mocha, with a touch of mineral chalkiness. This truly all-season wine will be as popular at a summer backyard BBQ as it would be at a winter après-ski gathering. (Dave Isaacs)
New in LCBO
89
Alamos Malbec 2016
Mendoza $15.95 (295139) 13.0% alcohol
An easily enjoyable crowd-pleaser, this wine offers notes of strawberry, blackberry, dried herbs, and smoke on the nose. It’s medium to light bodied on the palate with light tannins, balanced acidity and flavours of cherry and blackberry that fade into a vanilla finish. A great wine to pair with pepperoni pizza or spaghetti with meat sauce. It’s good value, too. (Dave Isaacs)
88
Argento ‘Selección’ Malbec 2017
Mendoza $10.95 (591693) 13.0% alcohol
There’s good bang for the buck in this wine. It’s dark red in colour, with purple highlights, and an interesting nose of cherry, moss, mint, and pencil shavings. It has a medium to full body a gentle nip of tannin and good acid balance delivering flavours of cherry, red currant, and spice. This is a perfect wine for an everyday red, to sip or have with meaty stews. (Dave Isaacs)
89
Argento ‘Reserva’ Malbec 2015
Mendoza $13.95 (363192) 14.0% alcohol
Deep-purple-hued liquid and fresh blueberry, purple plum and blackberry aromas introduce this vibrant offering from high-altitude vineyards. This is juicy and generous on the palate with black raspberry flavours and racy tang. Nine months of oak ageing suggest a mild vanilla note on the pleasantly dry, fruit-forward finish. This is a crowd pleaser to pour at your next barbecue. (Louise Boutin)
87
Finca Flichman ‘Misterio’ Malbec 2017
Mendoza, Argentina $9.95 (28803) 12.5% alcohol
This is fruit forward and nicely balanced with good weight and mouthfeel. Aromas of cherry and black plum with hints of spice introduce this delicious, exceptional-value Malbec. It rolls over the palate with dark cherry and mixed field berry flavours enhanced by lip-smacking tang. This spent a short time in oak that’s now totally integrated. It finishes with palate-flavour replays, balanced and tasty. (Vic Harradine)
90
Rosehall Run ‘Pixie’ Rosé Sparkling Non-Vintage
VQA Ontario $19.95 (492959) 11.7% alcohol
Poured this value-packed, vidal/pinot noir, sparkling Rosé at a large-group dinner matched with a wide variety of hot and cold finger food; it was a huge hit. Salmon-pink hued, it envelops the palate with refreshing, flavour-laden mouthfuls of sugared-grilled red grapefruit and tangy red cherry. It’s crisp and refreshing with plenty of pizzazz. Serve on its own to welcome guests or with hors d’oeuvre or lighter-styled mains. (Vic Harradine)
88
Tilia ‘Sustainably Farmed’ Malbec 2017
Mendoza, Argentina $13.25 (160945) 12.5% alcohol
You’ll be attracted to the dazzling embossed label with its shiny, multi-coloured tree and pleased to know the fruit was sourced from certified sustainably farmed vineyards. Piquant spice, red berry fruit and sprigs of thyme aromas swirl from this creamy smooth red. It’s medium bodied with good texture and plenty of ripe dark berry fruit and red plum decorated by excellent acidity and a hint of minerality on the palate. The mid-length finish is balanced on a pin. Pour with burgers, pizza, or wings. (Vic Harradine)
• Fruit for the following 2016 El Esteco ‘Don David’ ‘High Altitude - Reserve’ Malbec was hand harvested into small bins in vineyards at 1800 m a.b.s. then cold soaked in steel tanks, fermented with wild and commercial yeasts and 70% matured for 12 months in American and French oak with malolactic conversion and 30% matured in stainless tank.
91
El Esteco ‘Don David’ ‘High Altitude - Reserve’ Malbec 2016
Calchaqui Valley, Argentina $15.95 (483263) 14.0% alcohol
Farmed from high vineyards at 1800 m a.s.l., this leaps from the glass with aromas of herbs, spice, berry fruit and black pepper. A gusher of ripe black currant, dark plum and black raspberry adorned with excellent tangy acidity, black licorice and herbs envelops the palate, full bodied and fully textured with replays on the finish and aftertaste. This showcases complexity, exceptional value, and persistent purity of fruit throughout. There’s a pleasant dollop of soft, ripe tannin, you may want to aerate/decant for a couple of hours. (Vic Harradine)
90
Trapiche ‘Pure’ Malbec 2016
Mendoza $15.95 (370924) 13.5% alcohol
A combination of stainless steel tank and concrete pools is used for crafting this manual- harvested red that was then aged on lees for eight months. A beautiful fresh nose—crushed raspberry, red plum, rose petal and a hint of smoke—treat the senses. A velvety-textured gusher of red fruit flavours mingle with black plum with an unexpected saline note appearing on the mid-palate adding complexity to the mouth-watering tasty tart finish. This is a great value, medium-bodied malbec to keep on hand for red-sauce pasta dishes. (Louise Boutin)
90
Trapiche ‘Pure Black - Limited Edition’ Malbec 2017
Mendoza $15.95 (462861) 14.0% alcohol
100% malbec, hand harvested fruits from the Uco Valley are macerated for a minimum of 15 days and aged for six months in small concrete vats (no oak contact) resulting in a deep purple nectar with intense aromas — ripe blackberry, black cherry, graphite and a wisp of violet. The palate is taken over by a flood of fresh ripe black cherry, blackberry and cassis plus a mild bay leaf note bringing a balance of flavours in the lengthy warm dry finish. Medium-full bodied with mellow tannin, it calls for well-seasoned meats on the grill. (Louise Boutin)
89
Trapiche ‘Broquel’ Malbec 2016
Mendoza $14.95 (234385) 14.0% alcohol
This wine is opaque black cherry in colour, with aromas of cherry, vanilla, tobacco, and fresh sage. It is medium bodied with smooth tannins and a tart acidity that carries flavours of cherry, pepper, and red currants. There is a long finish with lingering tannins and lip smacking acidity. Enjoy with skillet-seared steaks with mushroom gravy. (Dave Isaacs)
Available at the SAQ
90
Alamos ‘Selección’ Malbec 2015
Mendoza $17.00 (SAQ 11015726) 13.5% alcohol
This is the premium Malbec from the Alamos portfolio. It sports a fascinating nose of black cherry, peppery spices, and dried thyme. It’s medium to full body with lots of jammy cherry, black plum flavours along with well-integrated tannins. The fruit-acidity balance is perfect as it fades into a smooth, tannin-tinged finish. Enjoy this wine sometime in the next two years with herb-rubbed roast beef. (Dave Isaacs)
New in Ontario Wineries
• Order the following by the case for daily office or home delivery direct from the winery using this link - Rosehall Run - or pick it up from the cellar door on your next visit to the winery in Prince Edward County. It’s just over a two-hour drive from the GTA or Ottawa via the 401. Here’s a map.
90
Rosehall Run ‘Pixie’ Rosé Sparkling Non-Vintage
VQA Ontario $19.95 (492959) 11.7% alcohol
Poured this value-packed, vidal/pinot noir, sparkling Rosé at a large-group dinner matched with a wide variety of hot and cold finger food; it was a huge hit. Salmon-pink hued, it envelops the palate with refreshing, flavour-laden mouthfuls of sugared-grilled red grapefruit and tangy red cherry. It’s crisp and refreshing with plenty of pizzazz. Serve on its own to welcome guests or with hors d’oeuvre or lighter-styled mains. (Vic Harradine)
90
Rosehall Run ‘Liberated – Unoaked’ Chardonnay 2017
VQA Ontario $14.95 (303776) 13.3% alcohol
Alluring aromas fill the air with tropical fruit, white nectarine and green apple galore. A fresh and spirited mouthful of lemon pie filling, Key lime and fleck of honeydew melon envelops the palate with good weight, creamy-smooth mouthfeel and a bucket-load of charm. It finishes lengthy, crisp and refreshing. This is value-laden many possible dance partners—sushi, sea food, chicken or pork. Kudos to winemaker, Dan Sullivan. (Vic Harradine)
88
Rosehall Run ‘Just One Rose’ Rosé 2017
VQA Ontario $17.95 12.0% alcohol
Sourced primarily from Niagara gamay noir, there’s also a splash of estate pinot noir. A gorgeous salmon-pink hued in the glass, aromas of spice, strawberry and orange peel mingle on the nose. A laser-like line of racy tang streaks across the palate with great élan—red currant, pie cherry and passionfruit to the fore. Palate flavours replay on the finish with gusto. Pour alongside prawn ceviche, charcuterie board, sushi or white pizza. (Vic Harradine)
New in Consignment
• Order the following two wines by the case for home, office or restaurant delivery online from Profile Wine Group.
90
Susana Balbo ‘BenMarco’ Malbec 2015
Uco Valley $20.95 14.5% alcohol
This terrific wine has a nose overflowing with aromatic complexity. There are hints of pepper, mint, raspberry, vanilla, raspberry, and mushrooms. On the palate it is medium bodied with a wonderful balance of acid, and luscious flavours of cherry and raspberry. There are plenty of tannins, but they are very well integrated, making this wine a pleasure to sip from beginning to end. It’s well paired with grilled beef ribs slathered with a zesty BBQ sauce. (Dave Isaacs)
88
Susana Balbo ‘Crios - Limited Edition’ Malbec 2016
Mendoza $16.95 13.0% alcohol
This is produced in limited quantities with grapes sourced from defined areas in Mendoza and Salta regions. It exudes rich fruity notes—black plum, blueberry, black cherry—with a hint of baking spice and smoke. It’s ample on the palate with juicy ripe plum, black cherry and cassis flavours joined with dry herb and enjoyable chalky minerality. Medium bodied with mellow tannin, it has good tang on the black-fruit dry finish. Drinking well now, enjoy with beef and vegetable kebab on the grill. (Louise Boutin)
• Louise and Vic recently attended a well-curated tasting offered by Noble Estates Wine and Spirits. To place an order by the case of 6 or 12—see individual reviews— for delivery to your home, office or restaurant, phone their order desk at +1 905-943-7272.
Sparkling Wine
90 [6-bottle case]
Pares Balta ‘Pink’ Cava Brut Non-Vintage
Penedes, Spain $21.99 11.5% alcohol
This brut, traditional-method blend—38% grenache, 32% parellada, 30% macabeo—from organically grown grapes is aged on lees for 18 months and bottled without dosage. A fresh floral nose coupled with strawberry, raspberry and pink grapefruit aromas fill the air inviting a first sip. The bubbles spread over the palate with creamy-textured red berry, citrus flavours and a good splash of delicious minerality lingering in the lip-smacking, dry, fruity finish. This is delectable on its own or paired with a mixed salad with pink grapefruit supremes. (Louise Boutin)
White Wine
88 [12-bottle case]
13th Street ‘Vin Gris’ 2017
VQA Creek Shores, Ontario $24.95 12.5% alcohol
Vin Gris is a wine crafted using white wine techniques with red grapes, in this case, 100% gamay noir. It bursts with bubble gum, peach and Swedish berry aromas. It’s dry, medium-bodied with good back-bone supporting delicious ripe peach, raspberry and pink grapefruit flavours with mineral notes carried over in a mid-length finish. Pour alongside a baked rainbow trout fillet with a squeeze of lemon juice. (Louise Boutin)
89 [12-bottle case]
13th Street Pinot Gris 2017
VQA Creek Shores, Ontario $19.95 12.5% alcohol
Back by popular demand after a series of successful vintages, this value-packed, single-varietal charmer offers lifted aromas of freshly made pear jam, red plum, ginger and honeysuckle. It’s medium-bodied with excellent mouthfeel on the palate showcasing ripe pear, red apple and fresh citrus flavours alongside balancing mineral notes trailing in the citrussy finish. Pair with a spicy Asian-style fish or chicken for a complementary match. (Louise Boutin)
91 [12-bottle case]
Blacks Station Chardonnay 2016
AVA Dunnigan Hills, California $16.99 13.9% alcohol
This delivers exceptional value with a beautiful nose of pear, apple, toasted bread and vanilla aromas. Even better on the palate, there’s creamy-textured baked apple and pear flavours layered with caramel and elegant vanilla notes. The oak ageing is perfectly mastered to bring finesse to this balanced, medium-full bodied white. Pour with chicken pot pie or fish and chips. (Louise Boutin)
93 [12-bottle case]
Domaine Seguinot Bordet ‘Vieilles Vignes’ Chablis 2016
AOC Chablis, France $30.95 12.5% alcohol
Aromas of apple, pear, citrus and minerality abound. This bolts across the palate racy, crisp, clean and refreshing. Delightful flavours are carried along the palate medium-full bodied and fully textured with green apple, lemon curd and white grapefruit interwoven with saline minerality and notions of ripe pit fruit. This dishes up the perfect pairing for briny oysters, grilled sea food, sushi and ceviche. (Vic Harradine)
Rosé Wine
92 [12-bottle case]
Château Vignelaure Rosé 2017
Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence, France $29.95 13.0% alcohol
This is an impressive, hand-harvested, red blend of 40% grenache/30% syrah/30% cabernet sauvignon from 25- to 40-year-old vines that really deliver in spades. Light-salmon hued, it opens with aromas of floral notes, berry fruit and sharp spice before electrifying the palate with a scintillating ribbon of crunchy red berry fruit and freshly sliced strawberry intertwined with tangy acidity and piquant spice. This sets the bar for a Rosé with plenty of pizzazz. The lip-smacking finish and aftertaste are the cherry on top. (Vic Harradine)
Red Wine
92 [12-bottle case]
William Wright ‘Premium Hand Selected’ Pinot Noir 2016
Monterey, California $21.95 13.5% alcohol
From cork pop to last drop, you’ll find strong varietal characteristic in this estate-grown, hand-harvested pinot. Red berry fruit, spice and earthy notes on the nose introduce a tang-influenced river of palate-bathing flavour with racy pie cherry, cranberry and riper juicy black plum flavours decorated with spice and sprigs of herbs. It’s medium bodied with persistent purity of fruit, good texture and deftly balanced finish and aftertaste. This’ll match up with myriad styles of cuisines and also serve as an enjoyable sipper. Good value here. (Vic Harradine)
91 [6-bottle case]
Luciano Sandrone Dolcetto d’Alba 2015
DOC Dolcetto d’Alba, Italy $29.95 13.0% alcohol
This showcases good body and structure, oodles of tang, piquant spice and racy red fruit aromas and flavours. Red cherry, spice and raspberry aromas herald a racy line of pie cherry, passionfruit and red currant flavours streaking across the palate with sharp spice, tangy acidity and wisps of tannin. Aerate/decant for a couple of hours pouring with red pizza, lasagna or pasta in tomato sauce. (Vic Harradine)
• The Sancerre appellation is better known for its white wine but well worth exploring its red version with the one reviewed below from the Delaporte family who has been established in Chavignol since the 17th century.
90 [12-bottle case]
Delaporte Sancerre Rouge Chavignol 2016
AOC Sancerre, France $31.99 13.0% alcohol
Hand-selected, 100% pinot noir from 21- to 40-year-old vines, displays aromas of red cherry, raspberry, graphite and savoury dry herbs. The palate is treated to a soft and bright wash of tart cherry, cranberry and raspberry complemented with spicy notes and mineral character typical to the Sancerre region. Medium-bodied with mellow tannin, it’ll pair nicely with seared-tuna steak and mustard sauce drizzle. (Louise Boutin)
90 [12-bottle case]
Sargent Canyon ‘Proprietor’s Selection’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2016
Central Coast, California $20.95 13.5% alcohol
Alluring aromas of red and dark berry fruit, floral notes and sweet vanilla precede a palate-enveloping gusher of sweet, ripe fruit with dark berry fruit, cassis and racy red cherry to the fore. There’s good structure from ripe supple tannin, purity of fruit, good value and deft balance. It finishes with replays and excellent tangy acidity; leaving every sip as good or better as the previous. (Vic Harradine)
90 [6-bottle case]
Casa Vinicola Botter ‘Appassimento’ Primitivo Rosso 2015
IGT Primitivo, Italy $19.95 14.5% alcohol
Black currant, pipe tobacco, dried and raisined fruit aromas make way for a balanced and creamy-smooth mouthful of flavour—bramble berry, sweet vanilla and prune flavours coat the palate mingling with sprigs of herbs, mocha and peppery notes. This is medium-full bodied, well textured and value laden. It finishes with replays from the palate and quite charming. (Vic Harradine)
90 [12-bottle case]
Allan Scott Sauvignon Blanc 2017
Marlborough, South Island New Zealand $18.95 12.5% alcohol
Delicate aromas of floral notes, mown grass and soft citrus provide segue to a mellow and smooth wash of tropical fruit and nectarine flavours perfectly balanced with delectable tang and piquant minerality on the back palate and lingering, refreshing aftertaste. This is medium weight with good mouthfeel and a price-quality balance tipped wildly in your favour. (Vic Harradine)
• André Hueston Mack, owner/winemaker for Mouton Noir including the following wine, was the first Afro-American to be awarded, ‘Best Sommelier in America’ by Chaine des Rotisseurs. Mack currently is a sought-after celebrity for his accomplishments and wine knowledge; he’s appeared on prime-time TV and featured in numerous publications including: The New York Times, The Huffington Post, The Wall Street Journal and Wine & Spirits.
89 [12-bottle case]
Mouton Noir Winery ‘O.P.P Pinot Noir’ 2015
AVA Willamette Valley, Oregon $34.99 13.8% alcohol
This was made in a traditional manner including ageing 10 months in new oak. The result suggests red cherry and pomegranate aromas combined with clove and a mild gamy note. There’s a persistence of fruit on the palate with crunchy, tart red fruit flavours accompanied with baking spice and mild pepper enhancing the drying lengthy finish. This medium-bodied red with polished tannin is versatile at the table but delicious with a simmered, hunter-style chicken. (Louise Boutin)
89 [12-bottle case]
Argiano ‘Non Confunditur’ 2014
IGT Tuscany, Italy $26.99 14.5% alcohol
This red blend — 40% cabernet sauvignon, 20% merlot, 20% syrah and 20% sangiovese is called ‘baby Super Tuscan’ at the winery in the Montalcino region where winemaking dates back to 1580. A complex nose—red cherry, blackberry, red currant, dry fruit and a musky note introduces flavours of juicy tart cherry and red plum on the palate embellished with spicy cinnamon and dry savoury herbs. This is medium-full bodied with fleshy tannin and has a few more years to evolve. Aerate/decant two hours and pour now to 2024 alongside rare-grilled flank steak with tarragon butter. (Louise Boutin)
91 [6-bottle case]
Planeta ‘Santa Cecilia’ Nero d’Avola 2005
IGT Nero d’Avola, Sicilia, Italy $90.40 14.0% alcohol
This is a muscular, well-balanced red that’s dense and complex and still with good fruit on the palate. Aromas of black currant, cherry and black plum preface palate-enveloping dark berry fruit and red cherry flavours adorned with mocha and tangy, orange-tinged acidity—medium-plus weight with good mouthfeel and balanced on a pin. The dry mouth-watering finish replays palate flavour with pronounced tang and acidity bolstered by dusty tannin. Aerate/decant three hours before service. (Vic Harradine)
Cheers, Vic, Louise and Dave