Winecurrent
May 6, 2018 Newsletter

LCBOWines reviewed below that are in the May 12 release are also available online, to be either picked up at an LCBO store of your choice or delivered to your door; want to know more about ordering and/or delivery? Read this.

Newsletter Highlights include:

  • Finding Waldo – I’m a white grape discovered only in 1988 growing in a vineyard as a mutation amongst dark-skinned grapes. There are enough vines now to produce commercial white wine and the wine reviewed in this newsletter has some in the blend. The appellation allows this in a blend or as a single varietal.
  • Exceptional-value wine Exceptional Value!  – 9 of 62 wines available or soon to be available at LCBO retail meeting the strict quality-price guidelines. They range from $14.30 to $29.95 and are found throughout the newsletter easily identified via the exceptional-value checkmark above. Strict guidelines? Click here.
  • 95 and over – one wine from this Vintages Release scored 95 points or over - d’Arenberg ‘The Laughing Magpie’ Shiraz - Viognier 2012 @ $29.95 found under Australia: Red Wine
  • Louise Loves – 2014 Louis M. Martini Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon earned 91 points @ $34.95 found following the Vintages Release under New in Vintages; 2016 William Hill Estate Central Coast Chardonnay earned 90 points @ $16.95 found under New in Consignment Wine following the Vintages Release.
  • Vic Picks – 2017 Three of Hearts Rosé earned 90 points @ $19.95 found under Ontario: Rosé Wine; 2017 Momo ‘Organic’ Pinot Gris earned 90 points @ $19.95 found under New Zealand: White Wine; 2015 Tommasi ‘Graticcio Appassionato’ earned 88 points @ $15.95 found under Italy: Red Wine; Tenuta di Renieri Chianti Classico 2013 earned 93 points @ $22.95 and, of course all the exceptional-value wines.

Identify the LCBO store nearest you with stock of any wine with an LCBO product number by clicking on the number shown in brackets in wine reviews then clicking on ‘Select Stores’ and entering your postal code—the number of bottles available in stores near you is displayed—or by clicking ‘Check all stores’ where you’ll see stock available in all LCBO stores. For Vintages Release wines, stock should be displayed the Friday before a Saturday release, updated every 24 hours, some stores post earlier. LCBO Portfolio wines (wine not in Vintages) should always closely reflect stock in stores, updated every 24 hours. However, it’s always best to phone stores before making a trip.

May 12, 2018 Vintages Release:

Fortified Wine: Port

• ‘Late Bottled Vintage’ or ‘LBV’ as those in the know call them—now you’re ‘in the know’, you can, as well—is a term used for a single-vintage Port staying in barrel four to six years before bottling—twice as long as true ‘Vintage’ Port—making them more drinkable as they have less perceptible tannin when you purchase—it softens more quickly in barrel (barrels are not air tight), than in bottle. The vintage date shown on the bottle is the year grapes were harvested. LBVs are also generally produced in years that don’t meet the high standard required of a Vintage Port. However, they are a fraction the price of Vintage Port—the following 2011 Fonseca LBV is well worth a try.

91drink or cellar   

Fonseca ‘Late Bottled Vintage’ Port 2011

DOP Porto $23.95 (87551) 20.0% alcohol

Fig and raisin aromas introduce a spice-infused, intense gusher of sweet ambrosia. Flavours of black currant, kirsch liqueur and baking spice blanket the palate, medium-full bodied and generously textured. Extremely versatile at the table, pour with blue-veined cheese, extra-old cheddar or chocolate dessert. This is from a premium Port producer and very good value. (Vic Harradine)

92drink or cellar
Graham’s ‘Six Grapes Reserve’ Port Non-Vintage

DOP Douro, Portugal $22.95 (208405) 20.0% alcohol

The quality-value equation is well in your favour in this consistently well-made Port crafted from fruit of the same vineyards producing premium Vintage Port. A touch of smoke filters through the intense, sweet black berry aromas along with notes of dried fruit, spice and caramel. There’s great intensity and power on the palate with robust fruit flavour, spicy, peppery notes and lovely warmth. Firmly structured and richly fruited on the finish, it’s a hedonistic treat. (Susan Desjardins)

Fortified Wine: Manzanilla Sherry

• The following ‘La Guita’ was sourced from palomino grapes from the premium site in Sanlucar—Pago de Miraflores—then gently pressed and fermented in stainless tanks. The wine is then fortified with an odourless, tasteless brandy to 15.0% abv. It then goes through a period of ageing/maturing for more than four years in large 516 L American oak butts under a cap of ‘velo de flor’, aka yeast.

92drink now Exceptional Value!
Hijos de Rainera Perez Marin ‘La Guita’ Manzanilla
DO Manzanilla – Sanlúcar de Barrameda, Spain $15.95 (337022) 15.0% alcohol

This is a stunning Manzanilla excelling in aroma, flavour, texture and price. It leaps from the glass with aromas of green apple, mineral and yeasty notes before exploding on the palate with a dazzling array of piquant flavour with green pear, melon and lemon-lime interlaced with a fine thread of saline minerality. It’s well textured with a lingering, lip-smacking finish and aftertaste. Pair with oysters, olives or charcouterie board. (Vic Harradine)

• There’s an argument to be made that Bollinger is the top or one of the top Champagne houses and the following Non-Vintage Bollinger ‘Special Cuvée Brut’ certainly lends a good deal of support for top spot. It’s a blend of 60% pinot noir/25% chardonnay/15% pinot meunier with over 85% of grapes sourced from Premier Cru and Grand Cru-rated sites and a generous amount of barrel-age and inclusion of reserve wines.

94drink or cellar  

Bollinger ‘Special Cuvée Brut’ Champagne Non-Vintage 

AOC Champagne $46.95 375 mL (234104) 12.0% alcohol

A profusion of mousse fills the glass with lines of fine-bead pearls winding upward, seemingly forever, in the glass. Alluring aromas of leesy/mineral notes, strawberry, baked apple and biscuit introduce a gorgeous array of invigorating, sweet and tang flavour caressing the palate with creamy-smooth texture, lemon curd, nutty notes and poached pear. This is crisp, refreshing, balanced and bountiful on the finish. My highest compliment; it required utmost discipline to spit rather than swallow. (Vic Harradine)

• The following Contraband Sparkling Rosé is fashioned in the Charmat method.

85drink now Oh Canada!

Contraband Sparkling Rosé Non-Vintage

VQA Ontario $20.95 (449728) 12.5% alcohol

Bright strawberry and cherry aromas precede a dry, palate-bathing streak of red currant and passionfruit mingling on the back palate with sweet, ripe mulberry and cherry bubble gum flavours. It finishes fruity and almost off-dry on the mid-length aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)

Ontario: White Wine

• Fruit for the following 2016 13th Street ‘June’s Vineyard’ Chardonnay was hand harvested then fermented and aged in stainless tanks with full malolactic conversion before resting on its lees for 6 months followed by light fining, filtration then bottling.

91drink or cellarOh Canada!
13th Street ‘June’s Vineyard’ Chardonnay 2016
VQA Creek Shores, Niagara Peninsula $21.95 (236745) 13.5% alcohol
Aromatic orange blossoms and honey notes on the nose, this is well balanced, nicely textured and a good value. There’s persistent purity of fruit throughout—flavours of apple and peach juxtaposed with lemon acidity and slate/mineral bits. Give this a go with breaded veal cutlets or roast pork. (Vic Harradine)

91drink or cellar Exceptional Value! Oh Canada!

Flat Rock Riesling 2016

VQA Twenty Mile Bench $17.95 (43281) 9.5% alcohol

The very pale-gold appearance of this wine belies the fascinating nose of herbs, peach and pear with wisps of petrol aromas. It’s medium bodied and slightly off dry with flavours of pear and peach accompanied by a delightfully lemon tang. The lemon hangs on through the finish, making the entire tasting experience crisp and refreshing. This will go very nicely with a plate of spicy pad Thai drizzled with lime juice. (Dave Isaacs)

Ontario: Rosé Wine

90drink now Oh Canada!
Three of Hearts Rosé 2017
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (552562) 12.0% alcohol
This is a classy, well-priced blend of 62% pinot noir, 38% pinot gris with aromas of strawberry and floral notes on the nose. It washes over the palate with good yin and yang via balanced sweet and tang on the palate expressed by flavours of tangy red grapefruit citrussy notes nicely partnered with ripe freshly picked strawberries. It finishes crisp and refreshing. Pour on its own as a delightful sipper or with a charcuterie board or white pizza adorned with olive-oiled arugula and chèvre. (Vic Harradine)

California: White Wine

87drink now  

Conundrum White 2015

California $24.95 (694653) 13.5% alcohol

Rosewater, exotic spice and sweet, tropical fruit aromas herald a sweet, fleshy river of mandarin orange, baked apple and honeydew melon that coat the palate infusing and dominating the lengthy finish and aftertaste. Pour with fruit flan or spicy Asian cuisine. (Vic Harradine)

California: Red Wine

• For those who cast bait in pricey waters, this 2014 Ridge Vineyards ‘Estate’ Cabernet Sauvignon is worth reeling in and tucking away.

91cellar
Ridge Vineyards ‘Estate’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2014
Santa Cruz Mountains $94.95 (89284) 13.7% alcohol
Aromas of black currant, cedar, savoury herbs and baking spice abound. It rolls over the palate with a smorgasbord of flavours—cassis, bramble berry and dark, juicy cherry framed in excellent acidity and underpinned with firm, ripe tannin. This is full bodied with good mouthfeel and lengthy tannin-influenced finish along with sweet American oak notes. Pop corks 2025 to 2033. (Vic Harradine)

88drink or cellar
Tom Gore Cabernet Sauvignon 2015
California $19.95 (451336) 13.5 % alcohol
This is fairly priced, full bodied and fully textured. Aromas of blackberry, dark plum, pipe tobacco and spice open the door to a mouthful of rich, luscious flavour with kirsch liqueur and black plum compote nicely balanced by red cherry tang and acidity. It finishes balanced with hints of mocha and pours well with grilled striploin after a one-hour aeration/decant. (Vic Harradine)

Argentina: Red Wine

90drink or cellar Exceptional Value!
Alamos Selección Malbec 2014

Mendoza, Argentina $16.95 (322800) 13.8% alcohol

This is a crowd-friendly malbec from high-altitude, cool-climate vines. Aromas of black currant, mocha and cedar billow from this mid-weight, nicely textured red. It showcases palate-bathing, ripe dark fruit—boysenberry jam and black currant nicely juxtaposed with excellent tang carried along on flavours of passionfruit and pie cherry finishing with toasty/oaky notes. It’s nicely balanced throughout and pairs well with comfort food—red or white pizza, spaghetti and meatballs in tomato sauce, burgers, mac and cheese or grilled gourmet sausage. (Vic Harradine)

90cellar
José Zuccardi Malbec 2013
Uco Valley, Mendoza $44.95 (163725) 13.0% alcohol
Virtually opaque hued, the fruit—90% malbec, 10% cabernet sauvignon—was fermented by wild yeast in cement vats and matured in cement vat and über-large oak foudres. Aromas of bramble berry, spice and sprigs of savoury herbs provide segue to a textured, medium-plus bodied river of black currant and cherry interwoven with mocha and savoury herbs. There’s considerable drying mouthfeel on the lingering finish and aftertaste from still-evolving tannin. Pour 2020 to 2028. (Vic Harradine)

89drink or cellar
Tapiz ‘Alta Collection’ Malbec 2015
Mendoza $19.95 (450155) 14.2% alcohol
Mixed field berry fruit, spice and rose petal aromas precede a balanced and beautiful wash of red and dark berry fruit, peppery spice and lip-smacking tang. This is mid weight with good mouthfeel and plenty of charm. It finishes with fruit replays from the palate along with mouth-watering tang and a price-quality balance tipped well in your favour. (Vic Harradine)

Chile: White Wine

91drink or cellar
Arboleda ‘Single Vineyard’ Chardonnay 2016
Aconcagua Costa $19.95 (606772) 13.0% alcohol
This wild-yeast fermented chardonnay opens with aromas of baking spice and tropical fruit prior to dishing up a rich luscious wave of ripe pineapple, honeydew melon and soft Meyer lemon tang. The price-quality ratio skews well in your favour; it’s medium bodied with very good mouthfeel and a dry, mouth-watering finish. Pour alongside grilled, crispy-skin chicken breasts. (Vic Harradine)

Chile: Red Wine

89drink or cellar
Viña Tarapacá ‘Gran Reserva’ Carmenère 2015
Maipo Valley $17.75 (57513) 14.5% alcohol
This dense, fruit-laden and ready to drink. Black currant, dark Bing cherry and black plum flavours coat the palate adorned with excellent tangy acidity and savoury herbs. Espresso roast, bittersweet chocolate and replays of palate flavours dominate the lingering, balanced finish and aftertaste. Pour with grilled hangar steak and oven-roasted fries.

Australia: Red Wine

95drink or cellar Exceptional Value!
d’Arenberg ‘The Laughing Magpie’ Shiraz - Viognier 2012

McLaren Vale $29.95 (936971) 14.4% alcohol

This showcases persistent purity of fruit, excellent fruit flavours and tang, balance, exceptional value and oodles of charm. Aromas of dark berry fruit, exotic incense and spice cake introduce a tapestry of palate-bathing flavour with black currant, cassis and boysenberry compote interwoven with red currant, racy pie cherry and baking spice. This is medium-plus bodied with good mouthfeel and a lengthy balanced finish. (Vic Harradine)

New Zealand: White Wine

90drink or cellar
Momo ‘Organic’ Pinot Gris 2017
Marlborough, South Island $19.95 (163535) 14.5% alcohol
The huge nose of floral notes and tropical fruit is portend of the gusher of nectarine and pear intertwined with piquant spice and lovely honeyed notes on the full-bodied, fully textured palate. It finishes with a blaze of lemon pie filling on the finish and aftertaste. This is a perfect dance partner for baked, glazed ham dotted with cloves alongside mashed potatoes and corn. (Vic Harradine)

New Zealand: Red Wine

94drink or cellar Exceptional Value!
Elephant Hill Pinot Noir 2013

Central Otago, South Island $22.95 (309583) 14.0% alcohol

The grapes were carefully de-stemmed and fermented in traditional wooden cuvées. Following pressing, the wine spent eleven months maturing in oak barriques then bottled with minimal fining and intervention. Aromas of charred toast, ripe dark berry fruit and wisps of barnyard open the door for rich and elegant flavours—juicy black Bing cherry, bramble berry and black plum compote. It’s mid weight with very good mouth feel and a long finish and aftertaste with oodles of ripe, red fruit and balancing acidity—an expression of pinot noir that makes New Zealand proud. (Julie Stock)

88drink or cellar
Trinity Hill ‘The Trinity – Red Blend’ 2014
Hawkes Bay, New Zealand $22.95 (551630) 13.5% alcohol
Aromas of dark toast and smoke provide segue for a dry, fruit-filled, palate-bathing wash of red currant and pomegranate intertwined with savoury herbs and wisps of drying tannin. This is mid weight and delicately textured with good length and balance on the finish and aftertaste. Pour with supermarket, rotisserie-roast chicken or pork chops. (Vic Harradine)

France: Red Wine

90drink or cellar Exceptional Value!
Gérard Bertrand Syrah/Grenache 2015

AOP Languedoc $17.95 (413327) 14.0% alcohol
Subdued aromas of floral and spice set the table for a smorgasbord of smooth, ripe and sweet-tinged flavours with red cherry, bramble berry and juicy black plum to the fore. This is fruit forward with no rough edges, medium bodied, nicely textured with deft balance and a price-quality ratio that skews wildly in your favour. It finishes with more of the same on the lingering aftertaste. Pour with grilled meats, gourmet burgers or beef fajitas. (Vic Harradine) 

Italy: White Wine

• One of the many great things about reviewing wines is that you get taste those you might never pick up because you know so little of the winery, the wine region or the grape variety. The following wine is a good example—if you like sauvignon blanc or riesling with a bit of an attitude, try this for a change of pace.

90drink now Exceptional Value!
La Valentina Pecorino 2016
IGT Colline Pescaresi $17.95 (541433) 13.0% alcohol
There are melon, grassy notes and pineapple aromas on the nose of this sustainably farmed, medium-plus bodied, 100% pecorino. It envelops the palate with a fully textured sweet and tang gusher of ripe pineapple, lime juice and wisps of tannin and white grapefruit. It’s good to go now with prawn ceviche, lemon chicken or California roll sushi. (Vic Harradine)

Italy: Red Wine

92drink or cellar
Umberto Cesari ‘Liano’ Sangiovese/Cabernet Sauvignon 2014

IGT Rubicone $27.95 (225086) 13.5% alcohol

Red cherry/berry aromas intertwine with savory herbs and baking spice preceding a dark chocolate-tinged river of mixed dark berry fruit and crunchy red cherry flavours mingling and melding on the palate, balanced with structure and depth. It’s full bodied with satiny texture and lengthy, mouth-watering aftertaste. Pour with beef and cheese manicotti. (Vic Harradine)

91cellar
Banfi Brunello Di Montalcino 2012

DOCG Brunello Di Montalcino $56.95 (378257) 14.0% alcohol

Orange-hued and brimming with aromas, this cellar dweller promises to handsomely reward patience. The nose offers aromas of blue and black fruit, pipe tobacco and mixed spice. It bathes the palate with a mid-weight, well-textured stream of racy red cherry and tangy cranberry sauce that persists through the dry, mouth-watering aftertaste. Pop corks 2020 to 2028 and pour with hearty stew like osso buco. (Vic Harradine)

89drink or cellar
Castello Di Albola Chianti Classico 2013

DOCG Chianti Classico $19.95 (339937) 13.0% alcohol

Piquant spice, berry fruit and rose petal aromas waft from this sleek Chianti Classico. Crunchy, red fruit dominates the palate with a bracing line of tart pie cherry, racy pomegranate and lively cranberry streaking through to the drying finish and aftertaste. This is a food wine that shines with pasta puttanesca or pasta arrabiata. (Vic Harradine)

93drink or cellar
Castello Di Querceto ‘Il Picchio - Gran Selezione’ Chianti Classico 2013
DOCG Chianti Classico $47.95 (938738) 13.5% alcohol
Delightful aromas of red fruit, licorice and vanilla introduce a luscious, smooth and mellow mouthful of pure ambrosia. It envelopes the palate and replays on the finish with persistent purity of fruit—black currant and dark cherry—embroidered with baking spice and mocha. This is structured, balanced, sumptuous and opulent. It’s medium-full bodied with good texture and a lingering finish and aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)

If you enjoy Ripasso wines, you may want to pick the following

88drink or cellar
Tommasi ‘Graticcio Appassionato’ 2015
Italy $15.95 (338939) 12.5% alcohol
Bright red fruit and piquant spice aromas waft from the glass of this value-laden, medium-bodied, nicely textured red that was fashioned using dried grapes as is done with appassimento reds. A lively wash of crunchy red fruit interlaced with mocha, piquant spice and black licorice notes bathe the palate. It’s tasty and tangy from cork pop to last drop and finishes lengthy and mouth-watering. Pour alongside beef fajitas or lamb shawarma. (Vic Harradine)

Spain: Red Wine

88drink or cellar
Baron de Ley ‘Finca Monasterio’ 2014
DOCa Rioja $34.95 (940171) 14.0% alcohol
Dark coffee aromas and exotic spice open this racy, tang-infused Rioja. It streaks over the palate with flavours of pie cherry, red currant and flecks of dark plum robed in tangy acidity and ripe, fine-grained tannin. Drinking well now after a two-hour aeration/decant, it should drink well to 2025. Give this a go with meat-lovers red pizza or pasta puttanesca. (Vic Harradine)

89drink or cellar
Bodegas Más Que Vinos ‘Ercavio - Roble’ Tempranillo 2014
Vino de La Tierra de Castillia $17.95 (67504) 14.0% alcohol
Alluring aromas of red and black berry fruit interlace with baking spice and toasty bits on the nose of this medium-plus weight, well-textured and spirited tempranillo. Crunchy red fruit—currant, cherry and cranberry—interwoven with toasty notes and great élan race over the palate and streak through the finish and aftertaste, dry, crisp and mouth-watering good. Pour with Swiss steak or mac and cheese. (Vic Harradine)

92drink or cellar
Licenciado ‘Reserva’ 2012
DOCa Rioja $24.95 (370023) 13.5% alcohol
Dark fruit, floral, exotic spice and cedar notes open this 100% tempranillo and flat-out delicious, structured red; it shines from the alluring aromas to very last delectable drop. A full-bodied full-bore river of dark and red berry fruit envelops the palate intertwined with toasty notes and ripe tannin. There’s persistent purity of palate flavours as they infuse the finish and aftertaste along with kirsch and herbs. Pour with crown roast of pork and root veggies. (Vic Harradine)

86drink or cellar Exceptional Value!
Monasterio de las Viñas ‘San José de Aguarón’ Reserva 2012

DO Cariñena $14.95 (166579) 13.5% alcohol

This was hand harvested from vines with an average age of 40 years—70% garnacha/20% tempranillo/10% carignan showing off its garnacha with racy tang and acidity throughout and a drying finish and aftertaste. A tight, tart wash of sour cherry and red currant streaks over the palate persisting through the aftertaste with great élan. A great food wine, this pours well with lasagna or spaghetti and meat balls in tomato sauce. (Vic Harradine)

85drink or cellar
Bodegas Muriel ‘Gran Reserva’ 2005

DOCa Rioja $29.95 (984187) 13.5% alcohol

Complex aromas of toasty oak, smoke, pipe tobacco and raisin open a light-on-its-feet wash of red cherry and pomegranate robed in spice and framed with good berry fruit tang and acidity. There’s a fairly lengthy, dry aftertaste. Pour this now after a two hour aeration/decant alongside leg of lamb or roast beef. (Vic Harradine)

Upstream in winecurrent

Vintages Release: June 2018

89drink or cellar
7 Deadly Red 2015
Lodi $24.95 (570473) 15.0% alcohol
There’s nothing subtle here. This big bomb of a red blend looks like purple ink in your glass then fills the air with aromas of strawberry jam, oak, and spice. It’s full bodied and fully textured with bold flavours of sour cherry and mint and finishes with good structure from slightly chewy tannin. This is a perfect match for grilled pork ribs with tangy BBQ sauce. (Dave Isaacs)


91drink or cellar
Duckhorn ‘Three Palms Vineyard’ Merlot 2015
Napa Valley $130.00 (34785) 14.7% alcohol
This is superbly elegant Merlot. It’s medium-red hued and vibrant pink around the edges. There’s a fascinating nose of strawberry, vanilla, and fresh basil aromas. It’s extremely smooth on the palate with silky tannins, red fruit flavours and a long finish reminiscent of dried herbs. It’s absolutely wonderful from start to finish. This will mature gracefully over the next 10 years, rewarding patience and careful cellaring. Enjoy with cherry-glazed roast duck. (Dave Isaacs)

94drink or cellar
Stag’s Leap ‘Artemis’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2015
Napa Valley, California $84.95 (708982) 14.5% alcohol
This is rich, ripe and raring to go. Aromas of black currant and dark cherry interplay with hints of mint and savoury notes on the nose. It blankets the palate with a silky-smooth wash of briary berry and juicy black plum flavours along with cassis and kirsch liqueur. This showcases good balance, density and plenty of pizzazz. It’s lively throughout with excellent tang, good structure, purity of fruit and charm. Drinking well now after a two-hour decant, especially when paired with grilled back ribs. (Vic Harradine)

Vintages Release: August 2018


93drink or cellar
Truchard Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon 2014
Napa Valley $42.95 14.2% alcohol
This stunning red is a blend of 87% cabernet sauvignon, 11% cabernet franc, 1% each of malbec and petit verdot. It’s medium red in colour with a slight orange cast. Aromas of dry earth, oak and mushrooms dominate the nose with traces of dry leaves and black peppercorns lurking in the background. It hits the tongue and palate with medium body and a good amount of well-integrated tannins. There’s a complex variety of flavours including plenty of red fruit and spice that linger nicely in the finish. You can put this one away for another 10 years or enjoy it today with medium-rare, grilled pepper steak. (Dave Isaacs)

88drink or cellar
Ravenswood ‘Old Vine’ Lodi Zinfandel 2015

Lodi, California $21.95 (942599) 14.5% alcohol

This is classic Californian, irresistible, fruit-forward Zin with aromas of raspberry jam, blackberry, stewed black plum covered with baking spice, vanilla and a note of burnt sugar. This Lodi-trademarked, full-bodied zin delivers a wash of ripe, sappy black fruit, racy fresh raspberry draped in extra-, sexy tannins ending on a long dry finish robed in mocha. This is crowd-friendly and the perfect dance partner to your favourite spicy, grilled, pork back-ribs. (Louise Boutin)

92drink now
Decoy Rosé 2017
California $29.95 13.5% alcohol
This unusual blend — 69% syrah, 14% vermentino, 9% carignan and 8% pinot noir was crafted with fruit picked at the perfect ripeness to produce a dry rosé. This exudes freshly crushed strawberry aromas flirting with rose petal and a zing of pink grapefruit. The palate’s treated to more ripe field strawberry perfectly balanced with freshly cut sweet citrus and mineral notes. This is medium-bodied and stainless-steel fermented to preserve the fruit-forward character persisting through the delicious dry finish. Totally delightful on its own, it’s also a perfect partner to grilled salmon fillet. (Louise Boutin)

• Jenny Wagner is the daughter of Charles Wagner who owns Caymus vineyards and Jenny fashioned this 2015 Emmolo Merlot as a tribute to her mom’s family. It showcases the potential of great merlot even with the bold comparison alongside the best cabernet sauvignon in Napa.

93drink or cellar
Emmolo Merlot 2015
Napa Valley $69.95 (96024) 14.9% alcohol
This 100% merlot is sourced from vineyards in the Oak Knoll area. It’s striking with its deep purple colour announcing concentrated aromas and flavours. Ripe purple plum, dark cherry and blackberry with sweet smoke and vanilla aromas abound. A gusher of ripe and juicy, dark fruit flavours complemented with bitter chocolate and fragrant baking spice wrapped in polished tannin offer both structure and softness in the long, fruit-forward finish. This is a beautiful expression of the varietal and pairs perfectly with grilled beef tenderloin garnished with blue-veined cheese. (Louise Boutin)

Vintages Release: Fall 2018

92drink or cellar
Jordan Vineyard and Winery Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2013
Alexander Valley, California $90.00 (357805) 13.8 alcohol
This red blend—75.5% cabernet sauvignon, 15.5% merlot, 7% petit verdot; 1.5% malbec, 0.5% cabernet franc—spent 12 months in French and American oak, 43% new. It leaps from the glass with alluring aromas of dark bramble berry fruit, savoury herbs and sweet vanilla. The palate’s treated to a brawny swath of delicious flavour cutting across the palate and infusing the finish and aftertaste—cassis, black and red currant, well-integrated oaky notes and a large dollop of excellent tang. Pours well now after a two-hour aeration/decant and on to 2030. (Vic Harradine)

90drink or cellar Exceptional Value!
Rioja Vega Crianza 2015
DOCa Rioja, Spain $16.95 (471854) 14.0% alcohol
Smoke and toasty notes mingle with spice, dark berry and cherry fruit on the nose of this 80% tempranillo, 15% garnacha, 5% mazuelo. It’s quite smooth on entry with loads of ripe red fruit flavours—strawberry, raspberry and cherry—adorned with dollops of bright, lively tang and notions of red licorice on the palate. Medium weight and nicely textured, it replays on the finish showcasing good purity of fruit, deft balance, and it’s lip-smacking good. Wonderful as a sipper, it pairs well with prawn and chorizo paella, lasagna or pasta in tomato sauce. (Vic Harradine)

• The following 2015 Rioja Vega ‘Edicón Limitada’ Crianza is a 90% tempranillo/10% graciano blend. It spent 14 months in small oak barrels.

92drink or cellar
Rioja Vega ‘Edición Limitada’ Crianza 2015
DOCa Rioja, Spain $22.95 14.0% alcohol
Alluring exotic aromas of smoky incense, cedar and baking spice provide segue for a rich, luscious river of crunchy red fruit—passionfruit, currant, cherry—nicely balanced with kirsch liqueur and black plum compote. It’s medium-plus bodied, creamy smooth on the palate and finishes lingering and luxurious with soft, ripe tannin, baking spice and those gorgeous palate flavours. Pour with grilled striploin after a couple of hours aeration/decant. Lovely now, will improve over the next 7-plus years. (Vic Harradine)

• The following 2017 Rioja Vega Vino Blanco is a nifty white blend of viura, verdejo and tempranillo blanco with the latter a single vine discovered growing in La Rioja as a mutation of the dark grape Tempranillo. It was recently discovere in 1988 and carefully nurtured and propagated in the 20th C.

89drink now
Rioja Vega Vino Blanco 2017
DOCa Rioja, Spain $20.95 13.0% alcohol
Tropical fruit, floral notes and citrus aromas introduce a gorgeous array of flavours with ripe nectarine and lemon curd intertwined with Key lime pie on the palate. This is light-medium bodied with good mouthfeel and excellent acidity on the crisp, refreshing finish. This is superb as a sipper and perfectly paired with grilled seafood or roast chicken or pork. (Vic Harradine)

New in the LCBO Portfolio

86drink or cellar Exceptional Value!
Masi ‘Paso Robles - Tupungato - Organic’ Malbec/Corvina 2015
Valle de Uco, Argentina $14.30 (620880) 14.0% alcohol
Perfumed aromas of roses, exotic spice and pipe tobacco waft easily from this rich, dense, value-laden and tang-infused gem. It envelops the palate with a rich, luscious stream of tangy red cherry and black currant fruit flavours adorned with spice and lip-smacking tang. It finishes with replays and is mouth-watering good. If you’re already a fan, be aware there’s a label change—more white where it was black and… it’s now organic. (Vic Harradine)

New in Vintages

93drink or cellar
Jordan Vineyard and Winery Russian River Valley Chardonnay 2015
Russian River Valley, California $57.60 (505890) 13.7 alcohol
Aromas of sharp minerality, green apple and citrus make way for a dazzling stream of focused flavours with green pear, Granny Smith apple and lemon curd caught up in a surge of slate/flint minerality. This is medium weight and richly textured with well-integrated oak and a lengthy, mouth-watering finish and aftertaste. This boasts firm structure, excellent balancing tang and an affinity for freshly shucked briny oysters or prawn ceviche. (Vic Harradine)

88drink now
Josh Cellars Rosé 2017
California $17.80 (539312) 12.5% alcohol
This interesting blend — 89% barbera, 6% muscat, 5% syrah is sourced from northern interior and central interior California vineyards. It has an attractive nose of fresh strawberry, cantaloupe and orange blossom. It’s medium-light bodied and bursts with flavours of strawberry, peach and pink grapefruit leading to a dry, fresh and mouth-watering finish. Well priced, it’s a Rosé for patio parties, either on its own or paired with appetizers or seafood off the grill. (Louise Boutin)

88drink or cellar
Josh Cellars Legacy Red 2015
California $17.90 (507467) 13.5% alcohol
This red blend — 44% merlot, 44% zinfandel, 12% petite sirah—was sourced from Central Coast, Lodi, Sonoma and Napa vineyards. It features aromas of ripe black plum, blackberry and roasted nuts. It washes over the palate with juicy black cherry, blackberry and purple plum flavours, a hint of cinnamon and the nutty character that leads the mellow and charming finish. Medium-full bodied and generous in flavour and character, this is definitely well priced. It’s very good sipped on its own or poured alongside your favourite, grilled cut of beef. (Louise Boutin)

89drink or cellar
Liberty School Chardonnay 2015
Central Coast, California $21.95 (960120) 13.5% alcohol
Aromas of nutty notes, tropical fruit and toasty bits set the table for a feast of flavour with baked apple pie, crème brûlée and rich ripe melon and pear and tinges of vanilla washing over the palate in waves. This is medium-plus bodied with creamy-smooth mouthfeel and gains balance with citrussy tang making its way to the finish and aftertaste. Good to go now and pours well with roast chicken or pork. (Vic Harradine)

• The following is a Vintages Essentials wine always available in select stores.

• Established in Napa Valley for over 80 years, Louis M. Martini specializes in cabernet sauvignon produced from premium vineyards in Napa and Sonoma counties.

91drink or cellar
Louis M. Martini Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2014
Napa Valley $34.95 (232371) 15.4% alcohol
The nose is inviting with ripe dark-fruit aromas and intense delicious licorice and vanilla notes. A silky, juicy wash floods the palate with ripe blackberry, blueberry and cassis flavours decorated with baking spice and replay of licorice trailing in the lengthy, delicious finish. This full-bodied blend is 90% cabernet sauvignon, 5% petite sirah, 5% petit verdot, offering excellent balance, polished tannins, good structure and at least ten years of cellaring potential. This is good value and certainly a crowd pleaser at a BBQ gathering. (Louise Boutin)

89drink now
Mer Soleil ‘Unoaked’ Chardonnay 2015
Monterey County $24.95 (220343) 14.7% alcohol
The distinctive concrete colored bottle with a silver cap hints at the winemaking vessels and ageing process — stainless steel and small concrete vats from Burgundy. The nose evokes citrus notes and lactic aromas with notions of ageing on lees. The palate’s awakened with vibrant white grapefruit, ripe pear, lemon yogurt and mineral notes trailing in the finish and aftertaste. This is medium-full-bodied with a round mouthfeel and well-integrated alcohol. It’s the perfect companion to a mixed sausage and sauerkraut feast. (Louise Boutin)

93drink or cellar
Tenuta di Renieri Chianti Classico 2013
DOCG Chianti Classico $22.95 (5408490 14.0% alcohol
This is highly perfumed with floral notes, exotic spice and red berry fruit galore. It washes over the palate with lively pie cherry and red currant nicely balanced with black plum and ripe bramble berry flavours intertwined with earthy notes and plenty of depth and pizzazz. It’s medium-plus bodied with good purity of fruit and more than its fair share of charm with notions of elegance. It finishes lengthy, smooth and mellow. This is a terrific value. (Vic Harradine)

New in Okanagan Valley, British Columbia Wineries

• Order the following Culmina wines to be shipped to your home or office in most provinces, including Ontario, via this link - Culmina Family Estate Winery.

93drink now
Culmina ‘Unicus’ Grüner Veltliner 2017

VQA Okanagan Valley $27.00 14.0% alcohol
Truly quite special throughout, this is not to be missed. Alluring aromas of beeswax, delicious melon and peppery notes provide segue for a huge mouthful of oily, fully textured and tang-infused ambrosia with Key lime, piquant minerality and ripe apricot flavours to the fore. Persistent purity of flavours extend through the dry, über-lengthy, lip-smacking finish and aftertaste. Pour on its own for sipping pleasure or pair with freshly shucked Malpeque oysters under a dash of hot sauce and squeeze of fresh lemon. (Vic Harradine)

New in Consignment Wine

• Order the following William Hill Estate Winery Chardonnay by the case of 12 for delivery to your home, office or restaurant by contacting Ashley by email at E & J Gallo’s order desk - This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.

90drink or cellar Exceptional Value!
William Hill Estate Winery Central Coast Chardonnay 2016
Central Coast, California $16.95 13.8% alcohol
Baked apple pie drizzled with caramel comes to mind when sniffing this blend — 97% chardonnay and 3% other white varieties. Ripe orchard fruits—apple, pear and peach—express themselves on the palate in a creamy fashion—courtesy full malolactic conversion and partial ageing on lees—along with notes of lemon curd, nutmeg, vanilla and a mild almond bite on the dry, lingering finish and aftertaste. This is medium-full bodied with bright acidity and great versatility at the table. Pour with pork tenderloin and vanilla-scented cream sauce or roast chicken with mushroom risotto. (Louise Boutin)

New in Private Order

• Order the following wine by the case for home, restaurant or office delivery. Free delivery in the GTA or delivered to your local LCBO for pick up. Order from VIP Wine and Spirits via email to Dave Coutts This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it..

88drink or cellar Exceptional Value!
Vinha do Cais da Ribeira ‘Reserva’ 2015

DOC Douro, Portugal $13.95 13.5% alcohol

Aromas of woodsmoke, earthy notes and licorice make way for a medium-bodied, nicely textured stream of sweet-tinged red and dark fruit—dark cherry, red plum and black raspberry—interweaving with good tang and hints of piquant spice. This is balanced on a pin with good fruit flavour and tangy acidity forming a smooth, mellow partnership. Food friendly, it’s versatile at the table—try meat-laden pizza, fajitas, roast chicken, burgers or spicy wings. (Vic Harradine)

• Order the following wines by the case for home, restaurant or office delivery in Ontario from VinoLuna wine agency. Contact via VinoLuna website, by Email at This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. or in the GTA phone 416 587-6691.  

87drink or cellar Exceptional Value!
Canneta Chianti 2016
DOCG Chianti Riserva $14.95 13.0% alcohol
Fruit for this red blend—80% sangiovese/10% canaiolo/10% merlot—was sourced from vineyards in the picturesque hills of Florence. Floral, spice and red berry fruit aromas introduce a complex, intense, palate-bathing flow of pie cherry, red currant and ripe sweet strawberry flavour interwoven with hints of red licorice. It’s medium weight with oodles of tang and wisps of drying tannin on the finish and aftertaste. Aerate/decant an hour or so and pour with pasta in tomato sauce or a meat-lovers pizza. (Vic Harradine)

87drink or cellar
Canneta Chianti Riserva 2015
DOCG Chianti $19.95 13.5% alcohol
This 85% sangiovese, 15% canaiolo blend dishes up aromas of red cherry, piquant spice and cedar. It spreads over the palate with a warm river of tang—cranberry, passionfruit and crunchy red cherry. It’s medium bodied, framed with lively acidity and underpinned by a firm tannin structure. Give this a go in 2020—patience will be rewarded—or serve now with pasta puttanesca after a two-hour aeration/decant. (Vic Harradine)

90drink or cellar Exceptional Value!
Fattoria La Torre ‘La Villa - Riserva’ Chianti 2015
DOCG Chianti Colli Senese $17.95 14.0% alcohol
The highly perfumed nose of exotic spice, incense and cedar provide segue to a balanced and beautiful stream of palate-coating flavour with dark Bing cherry, briary berry and notions of kirsch and cassis. This is medium-plus bodied with good mouthfeel, balance and persistent purity of fruit. It finishes lengthy and lip-smacking good. This is an 80% sangiovese, 20% cabernet sauvignon blend that matured 24 months in large oak tank and small oak barrel for 24 months. Pour with osso buco or cassoulet. (Vic Harradine)

90drink or cellar
Bartali ‘Alberto Bartoli’ Chianti Classico 2016
DOCG Chianti Classico $20.95 13.0% alcohol
Wisps of dark toast, spice and tobacco precede a medium-bodied, well-textured mouthful of deliciously balanced, ripe flavours with cherry pie, red raspberry and black currant to the fore. Medium bodied and well textured, this sports a lengthy finish and aftertaste garnished with mouth-watering tang and vibrant spice. This is drinking well now and pours perfectly with grilled red meat, lasagna or grilled gourmet sausage; there’s good value in this pure sangiovese. (Vic Harradine)

88drink or cellar
Bartali ‘Bartali’ Chianti Classico 2016
DOCG Chianti Classico $19.95 13.0% alcohol
Pale-ruby hued in the glass, shy aromas of rose petal and cherry need to be coaxed. A very pleasant flow of ripe fruit –cherry, strawberry and dark plum—spreads over the palate with piquant spice and oodles of tangy acidity. It’s light-medium bodied with light texture and smooth mouth feel. A lighter-styled 100% sangiovese that will appeal with its deft balance and restrained charm. Pour alongside a charcuterie board or pasta in tomato sauce—delicious. (Vic Harradine)

90drink or cellar
Terre di Melazzano ‘ChiAndré’ Chianti Classico 2016
DOCG Chianti Classico $21.95 14.5% alcohol
Dried cherries, earthy notes and cedar aromas herald a deftly balanced gusher of ambrosia—tang-infused bramble berry and black Bing cherry embroidered with dark bittersweet chocolate and notes of minerality. It’s a blend of 90% sangiovese, 5% canaiolo, 5% merlot offering good weight and texture with a finish and aftertaste that showcases length, purity of fruit, balance and smooth ripe tannin. (Vic Harradine)

90drink or cellar
Bartali ‘Ville Reale’ Chianti Classico 2016
DOCG Chianti Classico $22.95 13.5% alcohol
Delicate aromas of mixed field berry fruit and floral notes set the table for a feast of smooth, mellow flavours—red cherry, dark plum and black raspberry interweave with spice, herbs and excellent tang. It’s mid weight with good texture and polished tannin on the back palate and aftertaste. Pour alongside veal scaloppini or spaghetti Bolognese after an hour or so aeration/decant. (Vic Harradine

89drink or cellar
Fattoria La Torre ‘Guinzano’ Rosso 2015

DOC San Gimignano $17.95 14.0% alcohol
This value-packed, international blend—70% sangiovese, 15% cabernet sauvignon, 15% merlot—opens with a dazzling nose and a gorgeous gusher of ripe fruit flavour. Aromas of spice and red and dark cherry make way for a full bore, fully textured wave of tangy, delectable palate-enveloping red and black currant, black Bing cherry melding with spice and lip-smacking, taste-good tang. Good to go now and pairs well with grilled red meats and stews. (Vic Harradine)

90drink or cellar Exceptional Value!
Boschetto di Montiano ‘Manicone’ Morrellino Scansano 2016
DOCG Morellino Scansano $17.95 13.5% alcohol
Red cherry/berry fruit and sprigs of savoury herbs billow from the nose of this fully flavoured blend—85% sangiovese/15% merlot. A smooth and polished flow of dark berry fruit—currant and raspberry—interlace with black licorice, espresso roast and lively red cherry. Medium bodied with good mouthfeel, it finishes lengthy, mouth-watering, balanced and brimming with flavour and complexity.

92drink or cellar
Canneta Brunello di Montalcino 2013
DOCG Brunello di Montalcino $59.95 13.5% alcohol
Earthy notes, leather, red and black currant aromas set the stage for a well-balanced flow of dark fruit—black currant and Bing cherry—melding nicely with passionfruit and red currant on entry. It spreads out on the back palate and finish offering up savoury herbs and black licorice. This 100% sangiovese grosso is medium-plus bodied with good texture while the aftertaste is decorated with solid fruit flavours, good tang and soft, polished tannin. Good to go now and on to 2023. (Vic Harradine)

Cheers, Vic, Louise, Lisa and Dave