April 23, 2018 Newsletter

All wines reviewed below that are in this April 28th release are also available online; want to know more about ordering and/or delivery? Read this.

Newsletter Highlights include:

• Exceptional-value wine   – a bonanza with 7 of 32 wines soon to be available at LCBO retail meeting the strict quality-price guidelines. They range from $14.95 to $34.95 and are found throughout the newsletter easily identified via the exceptional-value checkmark above. Strict guidelines? Click here.
• 95 and over – three wines soon to be available at retail scored 95 points or over. Tawse Winery Chardonnay Icewine 2013 earned 96 points @ $35.95 (200 mL) found under Icewine; Paul Hobbs ‘Crossbarn’ Chardonnay 2016 earned 95 points @ $34.95 found under California: White Wine; Carpineto ‘Riserva’ Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano 2012 earned 95 points @ $32.95 found under Italy: Red Wine.
• Vic Picks – 2014 Morandé ‘Gran Reserva’ Carmenère earned 89 points @ $17.00 found under Chile: Red Wine; Cecchi ‘Storia Di Famiglia’ Chianti Classico 2015 earned 89 points @ $17.95 found under Italy: Red Wine; Le Volte dell’Ornellaia 2015 earned 91 points @ $29.95 found under Italy: Red Wine; Frei Brothers ‘Sonoma Reserve’ Zinfandel 2015 earned 90 points @ $24.95 found near end of newsletter under New in Vintages; and, of course all the exceptional-value wines.

Identify the LCBO store nearest you with stock of any wine with an LCBO product number by clicking on the number shown in brackets in wine reviews then clicking on ‘Select Stores’ and entering your postal code—the number of bottles available in stores near you is displayed—or by clicking ‘Check all stores’ where you’ll see stock available in all LCBO stores. For Vintages Release wines, stock should be displayed the Friday before a Saturday release, updated every 24 hours, some stores post earlier. LCBO Portfolio wines (wine not in Vintages) should always closely reflect stock in stores, updated every 24 hours. However, it’s always best to phone stores before making a trip.

April 28, 2018 Release

Fortified Wine: Port

89
Burmester 10-Year-Old Tawny Port Non-Vintage 

DOC Douro $28.95 (223958) 20.0% alcohol

Aromatic and extremely versatile, this is also food friendly with a long, delicious, sweet aftertaste. Spice cake, iodine and orange marmalade on the nose, it bathes the palate with round fleshy flavours—toffee apple, crème caramel and toasted almonds. Tawny Port gains its name from the tawny colour from many years aged in barrel—resolving tannin and imparting a silky-smooth, lip-smacking experience. Lovely on its own, serve slightly chilled with consommé, fruit cake or amarelo cheese. (Vic Harradine)

Icewine

96
Tawse Winery Chardonnay Icewine 2013 

VQA Niagara Peninsula $35.95 (443739) 200 mL 10.5% alcohol

Urban legend has it icewine is often re-gifted because of its rock-star status. It would reflect questionable judgment to not open and enjoy this one; it’s stunning. Aromas of honeyed mango and apple pie spice mingle with baking spice before coating the palate with unfettered nectar of the gods—candied blood orange, grilled pineapple and piquant baking spice. Yin meets yang on the finish with ripe mango and lemon acidity providing a sweet and tang, fairly balanced aftertaste. Pour with pan-seared foie gras, fruit flan or blue-veined cheese. (Vic Harradine)

Sparkling Wine

89
Torresella Prosecco Non-Vintage

DOC Prosecco $16.95 (400440) 11.0% alcohol

This provides great value as a light-on-its-feet sipper pouring well as a welcoming wine or when paired with lighter-styled appetizers. Toast, honey and earthy notes on the nose, it glides smoothly across the palate with mouth-watering flavours of lemon yoghurt, green tea and honey-tinged pear. This extra-dry Prosecco finishes in a blaze of mouth-watering tang… clean, crisp and refreshing. (Vic Harradine)

Okanagan Valley: White Wine

88
Mission Hill ‘Reserve’ Sauvignon Blanc 2015
VQA Okanagan Valley $22.95 (57430) 13.1% alcohol
Subdued aromas of yellow plum and lemon yoghurt provide segue for a fleshy, palate-coating wash of piquant spice, lemon-lime tang and wisps of greengage plum and mineral notes. A light-on-its-feet sipper that also pairs well with lighter styled appetizers like seafood canapés or lightly dressed salads with crumbled chèvre. (Vic Harradine)

California: White Wine

95
Paul Hobbs ‘Crossbarn’ Chardonnay 2016

Sonoma Coast $34.95 (235945) 14.1% alcohol

A lifted, involved nose of cedar, baking spice, lemon curd and ripe red apple intro. a full-bodied, fully textured wash of ripe, fruity ambrosia with apple, pear and sweet vanilla to the fore. This showcases persistent purity of fruit, great balance, structure and touches of elegance. The lengthy finish layers on saline/minerality and a crisp, refreshing aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)

California: Red Wine

90
Francis Ford Coppola ‘Diamond Collection’ Zinfandel 2015
California $22.95 (708289) 13.5% alcohol
Despite being light-red hued, aromas of cherry/berry fruit, mocha and baking spice leap from the glass. This is rich and luscious on the palate with sweet, ripe fruit flavours including cherry clafoutie, bramble berry jam and plum compote decorated with savory herbs, wisps of chocolate and sweet vanilla. It’s medium-plus bodied and well textured becoming well balanced on the back palate and aftertaste with generous dollops of lip-smacking tang. Pour with smoked, grilled back ribs mopped with spicy hot sauce. (Vic Harradine)

Argentina: Red Wine

88
Filus Malbec 2015
Uco Valley, Mendoza $17.95 (547315) 14.0% alcohol
Savoury herb, spice and berry fruit aromas announce a scintillating mouthful of briary berry, red cherry and red currant flavour on the palate. This is mid-weight, nicely textured and balanced with a lingering finish and aftertaste of dark berry fruit and excellent tang. It’s a very good value. (Vic Harradine)

88
Los Haroldos ‘Estate Blend’ Malbec/Cabernet Sauvignon/Petit Verdot 2014
Mendoza $14.95 (512202) 13.5% alcohol
This is a red blend of 60% malbec, 25% cabernet sauvignon, 15% petit verdot. The price-quality pendulum swings well in your favour. A rich stream of dark berry fruit, and black cherry intertwine with cracked black pepper and notions of kirsch liqueur. It’s medium-plus bodied and fully textured with a nicely balanced, lengthy finish. It’s good to go now with no rough edges and pairs well with grilled lamb chops. (Vic Harradine)

87
Telteca ‘Roble’ Bonarda 2016
Mendoza $14.95 (547323) 13.0% alcohol
Fruit filled and crowd friendly, this envelops the palate with waves of ripe sweet bramble berry fruit infused with spice, herbs and charm. It’s medium-plus bodied with good mouthfeel and a balanced aftertaste. This pairs well with whatever you grill and will be good at least until 2021, don’t be shy about picking up a few—this is an exceptional price given the price-quality balance tips in your favour. (Vic Harradine)

Chile: Red Wine

91
Bisquertt ‘Ecos de Rulo’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2015
Colchagua Valley $18.95 (546515) 14.0% alcohol
This single-vineyard cab opens with a nose sporting aromas of baking spice, savory herbs and dark fruit. It flows over the palate mellow and smooth with flavours of berry fruit and black cherry interwoven with spice and flecks of vanilla. It’s well balanced with a lingering finish and aftertaste of dark berry fruit and mocha that’s underpinned by good tannin structure. Drink now to 2023 with your favourite grilled red meat. (Vic Harradine)

89
Morandé ‘Gran Reserva’ Carmenère 2014
Maipo Valley $17.00 (371112) 14.0% alcohol
Intense hues of ruby red provide segue to the lifted aromas of black currant, dark cherry interlaced with savoury herbs, baking spice and notions of mocha. A flavourful flow of red berry fruit and black plum join hands with roasted herbs and delightful tang with all persisting through the finish. This very good value red is ready and rarin’ to go and pours well with coq au vin. (Vic Harradine)

Australia: Red Wine

• The following Yering Station ‘Village’ pinot noir 2015 was hand-picked from 11-16-year-old pinot vines – MV6 and 777 clones – fermented in open-top fermenters and spent eleven months maturing in French oak barrel 228L and 300L, just 10% new.
94  

Yering Station ‘Village’ Pinot Noir 2015

Yarra Valley, Victoria $24.95 (552166) 13.0% alcohol

This is a lovely pinot from twist top to last drop. Grilled savory herbs and toasty notes mingle with earthy aromas preceding a rich and luscious flow of racy pie cherry, tangy red currant and sweet vanilla. This is complex and structured with a delectably long, dry, lip-smacking finish. Punching well above the price, it offers very good value. (Vic Harradine)

France: Red Wine

87
Château Saint-Antoine ‘Réserve du Château’ 2014
AOC Bordeaux Supérieur $16.95 (434464) 13.0% alcohol
This merlot/cabernet franc red blend is good value given the price-quality ratio and its tony provenance. It washes over the palate with a medium-weight, nicely textured river of dark cherry and black currant intertwined with dark coffee, chocolate and black licorice. It finishes with more of the same on the finish and aftertaste infused with good tang. (Vic Harradine)

Germany: White Wine

88
Heitlinger White 2016
Qualitätswein, Baden $19.95 (546796) 11.5% alcohol
This pinot blanc is light on its feet and delivers an easy-drinking white wine that works well as a pleasant sipper. Light-medium weight with no rough edges, it slides over the palate with flavours of apricot, orchard fruit and wisps of tangy citrus notes. Pour on its own or with lighter-styled canapés. (Vic Harradine)

Germany: Red Wine

90
Eugen Altschuh Pinot Noir 2015
Qualitätswein, Pfalz $15.95 (550350) 14.0% alcohol
Quiet aromas of piquant spice and lively red berry fruit—cherry and raspberry—herald a smooth, mellow wash of red and black berry fruit adorned with oodles of lively acidity and good structure, This is medium bodied with good mouthfeel and plenty of cuisine options, from chicken and turkey to pan-seared salmon. (Vic Harradine)

Italy: Red Wine

88
Cantina Di Venosa ‘Verbo’ Aglianico Del Vulture 2015
DOP Basilicata 17.95 (538561) 14.0% alcohol
Lifted aromas of black licorice, mocha and spice open the door for a raucous, medium-weight mouthful of tang-laden red fruit—cherry, currant and passionfruit—careening across the palate with complexity persisting through the lengthy finish. Spice and mocha join the crunchy fruit and tang on the aftertaste. Give it a go with prawn and chorizo paella. (Vic Harradine)

91
Fontanafredda ‘Serralunga d’Alba’ Barolo 2013
DOCG $44.95 (943290) 14.0% alcohol
Hard to go wrong with a Fontanafredda nebbiolo, and this full-bodied, exceptional-value Barolo certainly doesn’t disappoint. Floral and mixed field berry fruit aromas precede a fine line of racy tang that’s nicely balanced with ripe black currant and red cherry decorated with baking spice and sprigs of savoury herbs as they race over the palate and persist through the lengthy, lip-smacking finish underpinned by still-evolving tannin. Pour with steak and kidney pie. Best pulling corks 2023 to 2035, but you could open a bit sooner and pour after a three-hour aeration/decant. (Vic Harradine)

95
Carpineto ‘Riserva’ Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano 2012
DOCG Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano $32.95 (368910) 13.5% alcohol
Exceptional wine and exceptional value, this is showing age with its brick-hued robe, but it’s not lost a step in freshness, flavour or lively tang. A bouquet of Christmas cake spice, dried fruit and red berries abound before unleashing a complex and structured stream of dark cherry and black currant enveloping the palate along with savoury herbs and baking spice. This showcases deft balance, persistent purity of fruit and a supple tannin underpinning; aerate decant two hours before pouring. Drink now and over the next 5 years. (Vic Harradine)

91
Le Volte dell’Ornellaia 2015
IGT Toscana $29.95 (964221) 14.0% alcohol

A highly anticipated, perennial favourite, this blend of 67% merlot, 20% cabernet sauvignon, 13% sangiovese, is ready to drink, fair value and shouldn’t disappoint. Dark berry fruit, piquant spice and mint aromas abound before dishing up a focused line of crunchy pie cherry and tart passionfruit scurrying across the palate adorned with notions of mixed spice and mocha, This is medium bodied with silky-smooth texture and soft ripe tannin. Drink now after a three-hour aeration/decant. (Vic Harradine)

89
Cecchi ‘Storia Di Famiglia’ Chianti Classico 2015
DOCG Chianti Classico $17.95 (540922) 13.5% alcohol
This very good-value, red blend—90% sangiovese, 5% colorino, 5% cabernet sauvignon—offers up an aromatic nose of peppery spice, wisps of herbs and red berry fruit. The palate’s treated to a racy, laser-like line of spirited tang from red currant, cranberry and pie cherry flavours decorated with baking spice and espresso roast. It’s medium bodied with good mouthfeel and ripe tannin for structure. The finish and aftertaste linger. Aerate/decant a couple of hours before service. (Vic Harradine)

87
Rocca Delle Macìe ‘Zingarelli Riserva’ Chianti Classico 2014

DOCG Chianti Classico $23.95 (930966) 14.0% alcohol

Aromas of floral notes, dark berry fruit and earthy notes gather on the alluring nose of this medium-plus bodied, well-textured sangiovese. It coats the palate with a nicely balanced wash of black currant, dark, juicy Bing cherry and blueberry joined on the aftertaste with a bite of sharp spice, wisps of tannin and herbal notes. This pours particularly well with pasta puttanesca. (Vic Harradine)

Portugal: Red Wine

89
Quinta Das Carvalhas Tinto 2013
DOC Douro $17.95 (523647) 14.1% alcohol
A 60% touriga nacional, 20% touriga franca, 20% tinta roriz red blend, this cellar dweller dishes up a boatload of racy, tang on the palate—red currant and cranberry—along with black raspberry and dark plum. This is full-bodied, fully textured, complex with depth and structure. It finishes dry and drying. Pop corks 2021 to 2028; patience will be rewarded. (Vic Harradine)

Spain: Red Wine

88

Balbas ‘Barrica 5 Meses - Old Vines’ Tempranillo 2015
DO Ribera del Duero $14.95 (543710) 14.0% alcohol
The ‘5 meses’ refers to the 5 months this old-vine Tempranillo spent maturing in oak. Red licorice, baking spice and stewed plum aromas introduce this full-bodied, easy-drinking red. A rich, luscious river of flavour blankets the palate with red cherry, blueberry and black plum to the fore along with baking spice, toasty bits and savoury herbs. The lingering finish is balanced and lip-smacking good. At this price, load up the trunk. (Vic Harradine)


Upstream in winecurrent

Vintages Release: August 2018

92
Patz & Hall ‘Sonoma Coast’ Chardonnay 2015
Sonoma Coast, California $64.95 (926659) 14.0% alcohol
Tropical fruit aromas—pineapple, honeydew melon and musk melon—interwoven with citrus notes dominate the nose of the medium-plus bodied, nicely textured beauty. It showcases well-integrated oak, deft balance, persistent purity of fruit and oodles of charm. White nectarine, green apple and melon wash over the palate adorned by minerality and crisp, clean lemon zest providing the lip-smacking finish. Pour alongside lemon chicken and root veggies. (Vic Harradine)

Vintages Release: TBD

93
Patz & Hall ‘Dutton Ranch’ Chardonnay 2015
Russian River Valley, Sonoma County, California $69.95 (200816) 14.0% alcohol
This is full flavoured with generous mouthfeel, purity of fruit and is, in a word, stunning. Aromas of Granny Smith apple, ripe pear and oaky notes provide segue to a gorgeous array of flavour blanketing the palate with ripe fruit—pear, apple and pineapple—interlaced with baking spice, buttery notes and a delightful surge of crisp, refreshing lemon zest on the beautifully balanced finish and aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)

New in Vintages

• Dry Creek Valley pioneers, the Frei Brothers winery have a 125-year bond with, and intimate knowledge of, their prime vineyard sites. Wines are now certified as sustainably produced.

90
Frei Brothers ‘Sonoma Reserve’ Zinfandel 2015
Dry Creek Valley. Sonoma County $24.95 (281758) 14.7% alcohol
Aromas of rich, ripe brambleberry entwine with savory herbs on the nose of this beautifully balanced sweet and tang zin. It envelops the palate with a medium-weight, nicely textured wash of black currant and pie cherry adorned with spice and hints of cherry clafoutie before the lingering finish layers on a refreshing tang. This will provide hours of sipping pleasure and pairs well with grilled red meat. Good value here. (Vic Harradine)

New in Private Order

• Order the following wines by the case for home, restaurant or office delivery in Ontario from VinoLuna wine agency. Contact via VinoLuna website, by Email at This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. or in the GTA phone 416 587-6691.  

89
Domaine Jaume Côtes du Rhône 2017
AOC Côtes-du-Rhône $15.95 14.0% alcohol
This fresh, lively and very good-value red blend—70% grenache/20% syrah/10% mourvèdre—was sourced from vines averaging 20 years of age. Lively fresh aromas of red cherry and floral notes herald a medium-bodied, tang-laden river of cranberry and red currant streaking across the palate with great élan. Riper notes of black plum and black currant join in along with wisps of drying tannin on the back palate and aftertaste. Pour alongside a juicy burger or grilled steak after a short aeration/decant. (Vic Harradine)

87
Domaine Courtois ‘La Source’ Côtes du Rhône 2016
AOC Côtes-du-Rhône $15.95 14.5% alcohol
This hand-harvested red blend—80% grenache/20% syrah—spent a brief maturation period in stainless steel vat before bottling. Subtle aromas of mixed field berry fruit and wisps of savory notes set the table for a robust array of tang-laden, lip-smacking red fruit flavour—pie cherry, plum, currant and passionfruit. The mid-length finish is piercing tart and tasty; pour with lasagna, meat-laden pizza or pasta puttanesca. (Vic Harradine)

• The following two wines from Domaine Courtois and Domaine Jaume are from the newly minted and burgeoning AOC of Vinsobres. Their advantages include older vineyards—the area has been planted for centuries—warm daytime temperatures coupled with a long hang time for fruit to ripen and cool evenings—due to elevation—that promotes fruit-acid balance.

88
Domaine Courtois ‘La Grange’ Vinsobres 2015
AOC Vinsobres $17.95 14.5% alcohol
This manually picked blend—60% grenache/40% syrah—was sourced from 30-year-old vines rooted on steep hillsides while only 1/3rd of the wine was matured in seasoned barrel for a short four months with the balance held in vat before bottling. Alluring aromas of floral notes, cedar and ripe, juicy red berry fruit abound. It spreads over the palate with a rush of medicinal red cherry, cranberry and oodles of lively tang. There are drying tannins on the medium-length finish. Give this a go with spaghetti Bolognese sprinkled liberally with freshly shaved, parmigiana reggiano. (Vic Harradine)

90
Domaine Jaume ‘Altitude 120’ Vinsobres 2015
AOC Vinsobres $17.95 14.0% alcohol
Sourced from 40-year-old vines of 60% grenache and 40% syrah, only a portion was matured in large, older, oak casks. Aromas of red and dark berry fruit entwine with spice and herbs on the nose of this mid-weight, nicely textured gem. It blankets the palate with a luscious wash of red cherry/berry fruit, lip-smacking tang and good structure from ripe tannin. It finishes lengthy and dry. (Vic Harradine)

Cheers, Vic