Winecurrent
April 8, 2018 Newsletter

Newsletter Highlights include:

  • Exceptional-value wine Exceptional Value!  – only 5 of 40 wines soon to be available at LCBO retail meet the strict quality-price guidelines. They range from $14.95 to $39.95 and are found throughout the newsletter easily identified via the exceptional-value checkmark above. Strict guidelines? Click here.
  • 95 and over – two wines soon be available at retail scored 95 points or over. Bollinger ‘Special Cuvée Brut’ Champagne Non-Vintage earned 96 points @ $82.95 found under Champagne; The Hess Collection ‘Allomi’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2014 earned 95 points @ $39.95 found under California: Red Wine. 
  • Louise Loves – The 2014 Finca La Escuela ‘La Grava’ Malbec earned 91 points @ $24.95 found under Argentina: Red Wine; 2016 Cline Family Cellars Viognier earned 92 points @ $18.95 found under California: White Wine; 2015 Paul Hobbs Pinot Noir earned 92 points @ $84.95 found under California: Red Wine; and, of course, her exceptional-value wines.
  • Lisa Likes – The Marie-Pierre Manciat Brut Crémant de Bourgogne Non-Vintage earned 92 points @ $24.95 found under Sparkling Wine; 2014 Hedonist Shiraz earned 91 points @ $22.95 found under Australia: Red Wine; 2014 Lamole di Lamole Chianti Classico earned 90 points @ $23.95 and 2012 Masi ‘Costasera’ Riserva Amarone della Valpolicella Classico earned 92 points @ $69.95 with both found under Italy Red Wine; and, of course, her exceptional-value wines. 

Identify the LCBO store nearest you with stock of any wine with an LCBO product number by clicking on the number shown in brackets in wine reviews then clicking on ‘Select Stores’ and entering your postal code—the number of bottles available in stores near you is displayed—or by clicking ‘Check all stores’ where you’ll see stock available in all LCBO stores. For Vintages Release wines, stock should be displayed the Friday before a Saturday release, updated every 24 hours, some stores post earlier. LCBO Portfolio wines (wine not in Vintages) should always closely reflect stock in stores, updated every 24 hours. However, it’s always best to phone stores before making a trip.

April 14, 2018 Release

Fortified Wine: Port

89drink now
Burmester 10-Year-Old Tawny Port Non-Vintage 

DOC Douro $28.95 (223958) 20.0% alcohol

Aromatic and extremely versatile, this is food friendly with a long, delicious, sweet aftertaste. Spice cake, iodine and orange marmalade on the nose, it bathes the palate with round fleshy flavours—toffee apple, crème caramel and toasted almonds. Tawny Port gains its name from the tawny colour from many years aged in barrel—resolving tannin and imparting a silky-smooth, lip-smacking experience. Lovely on its own, serve slightly chilled with consommé, fruit cake or amarelo cheese. (Vic Harradine)

Icewine

93drink or cellar Oh Canada!
Henry of Pelham Cabernet Icewine 2015

VQA Niagara Peninsula $39.95 200 mL (672402) 10.5% alcohol

You’ll find plenty to like in this estate-grown, cabernet franc icewine, especially the delicious flavours and deft balance. Aromas of spice-infused strawberry and raspberry abound before unleashing an unctuous river of palate-bathing flavour with strawberry/rhubarb pie and candied cherry to the fore. It cleans up on the finish and aftertaste laced with tangy blood orange and racy pie cherry. Pour with fruit and dark chocolate flan. (Vic Harradine)

• There’s an argument to be made that Bollinger is ‘the’ top, or one of the top, Champagne houses and the following Non-Vintage Bollinger ‘Special Cuvée Brut’ certainly lends a good deal of support for top spot. It’s a blend of 60% pinot noir/25% chardonnay/15% pinot meunier with over 85% of grapes sourced from Premier Cru and Grand Cru-rated sites with a generous amount of barrel-age and the inclusion of reserve wines.
Champagne

96drink or cellar  

Bollinger ‘Special Cuvée Brut’ Champagne Non-Vintage 

AOC Champagne $82.95 (384529) 12.0% alcohol 

A profusion of mousse fills the glass with lines of fine-bead pearls winding upward, seemingly forever, in the glass. Alluring aromas of leesy/mineral notes, strawberry, baked apple and biscuit introduce a gorgeous array of invigorating, sweet and tang flavours caressing the palate with creamy-smooth texture, lemon curd, nutty notes and poached pear. This is crisp, refreshing, balanced and bountiful on the finish. My highest compliment; it required the utmost discipline to spit. (Vic Harradine)

Sparkling Wine

90drink now Oh Canada!
Contraband Chardonnay ‘Extra-Dry’ Non-Vintage
VQA Ontario $19.95 (443705) 13.0% alcohol
This Charmat-method bubbly combines a fresh mineral nose with beautiful aromas of Royal Gala apple, peach and mild rose petal aromas. The fluffy mousse coats the entire palate carrying flavours of ripe pear, lemon-curd and a suggestion of wild-flower honey persisting in the finish and aftertaste. This is nicely balanced and versatile. Keep a bottle on hand and enjoy on its own or with lemon curd tartlets. (Louise Boutin)

89drink or cellar  
Roederer Estate ‘Sparkling Brut’ Non-Vintage

Anderson Valley, Mendocino, California $39.95 (294181) 12.0% alcohol

There are baking brioche and nutty notes on the nose before a solid profusion of bubbles and flavours are unleashed on the palate. The yeasty, mineral bits are predominant intertwined with pear and apple on the mid palate. It’s mid weight with good mouth feel and crisp, lemony finish and aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)

92drink or cellar
Marie-Pierre Manciat Brut Crémant de Bourgogne Non-Vintage

AOC Crémant de Bourgogne $24.95 (402362) 12.5% alcohol

This traditional-method sparkling wine from southern Burgundy entices the nose with caramel apple, lemon zest and toasty biscuit notes from time spent on its lees in the bottle. It has a generous palate of zesty citrus, ripe apple and brioche leading to a long, full and frothy finish. A good value Crémant, it’s well balanced with lively acidity and a delicate effervescence. (Lisa Isabelle)

Ontario: White Wine

89drink or cellar Oh Canada!
Henry of Pelham Chardonnay ‘Speck Family Reserve’ 2016

VQA Short Hills Bench $29.95 (616466) 13.5% alcohol

Lifted aromas of baking spice, toasty oak and flinty mineral notes abound on this well-textured, medium-full bodied, cool-climate chardonnay. It blankets the palate with piquant spice, lemon zest, apple and oaky notes galore. It finishes with wonderful citrussy tang. Expect this to mature gracefully in bottle over the next two years gaining in balance, unity and melding of what are now disparate flavours, much enhancing its charm and elegance. Pop corks, 2020 to 2026. (Vic Harradine)

• The ‘Ahead by a Century Chardonnay’ was crafted to commemorate the 20th anniversary of the Tragically Hip’s 5th album; Trouble at the Henhouse. Produced by the Stoney Ridge Estate Winery in the Niagara Peninsula, the winery was acquired in 2013 by radio and television celebrity Bob McCown. There’s no trouble with this truly Canadian chardonnay’s 2nd vintage reviewed below.

90drink or cellar Oh Canada!
The Tragically Hip ‘Ahead by a Century’ Chardonnay 2016
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (483875) 12.5% alcohol
The label is catchy and intriguing. The nose invites with ripe pear and peach aromas gently rocked with buttered toast and vanilla notes. 95% of the wine was fermented in oak barrels—the balance in stainless steel—followed by ten or so months of on-lees ageing in new French oak where a full, malolactic conversion occurred. The palate welcomes ripe orchard fruit flavours followed by comforting melted butter and vanilla lifted with a balancing green apple touch. This medium-full bodied white is made with great finesse in a Burgundian style and is a great match with a light-cream, seafood pasta. (Louise Boutin)

Ontario: Red Wine

89drink or cellar Oh Canada!
Tawse ‘Growers Blend’ Pinot Noir 2015

VQA Niagara Peninsula $25.95 (130989) 13.0% alcohol

Earthy notes with sandalwood, floral notes and mixed spice aromas leap from the glass. This showcases a mid-weight, medium-textured, racy, tang-laden wash of sour cherry, passionfruit, spice and herbal notes on the palate persisting through the dry, mouth-watering finish joined by dark berry fruit. Pour with pasta puttanesca. (Vic Harradine)

89drink now Oh Canada!
Vieni Gamay Noir 2016
VQA Vinemount Ridge $17.95 (498519) 12.5% alcohol
This is Canadian with Italian flair on the label revealing the Estate founder’s origins. Crunchy cherry, bubble gum, red licorice and floral notes make-up the fruity nose of this wine. The palate is very fruity and focused with concentrated cherry flavours alluring to kirsch liqueur extending into the grippy, peppery finish. While still a dry wine, there is enough residual sugar to pair well with spicy dishes; try a chicken curry. (Louise Boutin)

California: White Wine

92drink or cellar Exceptional Value!
Cline Family Cellars Viognier 2016
North Coast $18.95 (128421) 14.0% alcohol
This 100% viognier from Sonoma was hand-harvested then fermented and aged in stainless steel tank. The floral aromas are typical to this varietal and beautifully complemented with apricot, ripe pineapple and nutmeg notes, alluding to a feast for the palate. No disappointment; this is full-bodied with an impressive freshness of tropical fruit—pineapple and mango—gliding over the palate with a suggestion of candied ginger and star-fruit tang keeping perfect balance from first sip to final, delectable drop. This fig-thyme bruschetta recipe from Cline portends a delicious pairing. (Louise Boutin)

90drink or cellar
La Crema Chardonnay 2016
Sonoma Coast $29.95 (962886) 13.5% alcohol
This cool-climate chardonnay shows complexity and elegance. First on the nose, with peach and yellow plum aromas, beautifully wrapped in gentle oaky and vanilla bean notes. Then the palate’s greeted with a rich wash of poached pear flavours, buttered toast and vanilla notes lifted with candied lemon peel. This is medium-full bodied with lingering peachy/vanilla finish and a suggestion of piquant ginger on the aftertaste. Pour with crispy crab cakes for a delicious match. (Louise Boutin)

California: Red Wine

89drink or cellar
Decoy Cabernet Sauvignon 2015

Sonoma County $36.95 (186171) 13.9% alcohol

This Sonoma red blend—89% cabernet sauvignon/9% merlot/1% petite sirah/1% petit verdot—delivers a nicely balanced flow of flavour with a solid tannin underpinning. Aromas of smoky notes and spice box open the floodgates to a medium-full bodied, palate-bathing, smooth and mellow wash of black currant and black raspberry adorned with sweet vanilla and hints of mocha. The finish layers on perceptible tannin that’s easily ameliorated with a two-hour aeration/decant. (Vic Harradine)

95drink or cellar Exceptional Value!
The Hess Collection ‘Allomi’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2014
Napa Valley $39.95 (906420) 14.5% alcohol
Wow! comes to mind with the first inhale of the dark ruby nectar —ripe dark cherry, toasted bread, smoke and vanilla combined with freshness of thyme and licorice. It captures the palate with a silky, minty cooling sensation and generous potpourri of fruit-flavour—ripe black cherry, purple plum, cassis and blackberry—followed by a mocha note and peppercorn bite on the lengthy finish. It’s full-bodied with nicely integrated alcohol and firm, fine tannin offering longevity and enjoyment now to 2030. Aerate/decant two hours and pour alongside a rare-grilled, steak au poivre. (Louise Boutin)

92drink or cellar
Paul Hobbs Pinot Noir 2015
Russian River Valley $84.95 (119081) 14.2% alcohol
A sumptuous layered nose of ripe dark cherry with a whiff of kirsch, licorice, baking spice, thyme, cedar and mild smoke defines this deep-ruby hued, 100% pinot noir, It was aged 10 months in French oak, 45% new. Fruit was hand-harvested at night, hand-sorted while still cold to preserve fruit freshness on the palate—tart cherry, plum and blackberry—along with vanilla, clove and cinnamon notes persisting through the fruit-forward and smoky-tinged finish. This is medium-full bodied with good grip and pairs well with rosemary-rubbed, grilled rack of lamb. Enjoy now to 2025. (Louise Boutin)

Argentina: Red Wine

• The Bodega Tinto Negro portfolio has a collection of four malbecs from La Finca La Escuela with all situated at an altitude of 4000 meters in the Andes mountains. The wines are vinified and aged in the same manner with the only variable being the vineyard parcels from which the grapes are harvested. Within 7.5 hectares, there are four distinct soil types—gravel, silt, stone and sand. This is intended to show how this signature Argentine grape express itself with distinctive characteristics and unique personalities fashioned only by the soil in which the vines grow. Discover the 2014 ‘La Grava’ below, a malbec grown in gravelly soil that showcases the fruity character of this varietal.

91drink or cellar
Finca La Escuela ‘La Grava’ Malbec 2014
Mendoza $24.95 (547851) 13.5% alcohol
Another excellent ‘Wine of the Month’ selection, this high-altitude malbec has an expressive nose driven by aromas of ripe blueberry, blackberry, crushed raspberry, espresso bean and rose petal. Freshness of fruit on the silky-textured palate blossoms forth as flavours of raspberry, juicy black cherry and tangy red plum. This is medium-bodied with melted, soft tannin, stony minerality and a medium-long, dry fruity finish. Versatile at the table, it pairs well with cumin-scented couscous royal. (Louise Boutin)

91drink or cellar Exceptional Value!
Fabre Montmayou ‘Reserva’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2015
Mendoza $18.95 (261891) 14.0% alcohol
Winemaker Hervé Fabre relocated to Argentina from Bordeaux in the 1990’s to produce quality wines expressing their unique Argentine terroir. The judicious use of French oak—only 60% was aged in barrel and only 12 months—allows fresh fruit aromas of dark berries, plums and blackcurrants, layered with notes of cedar, spice and mint, to really shine. Dry and medium-full bodied, the perceptible tannin and fresh acidity balance palate flavours of ripe plum, blackberry, subtle coffee and vanilla. It finishes medium-long and is a fine partner to grilled lamb. (Lisa Isabelle)

Australia: Red Wine

90drink or cellar
Pirathon by Kalleske Shiraz 2013
Barossa Valley $29.95 (130278) 14.5% alcohol
Pronounced aromas of blackberry and dark plum meld with notions of tobacco, black olives, spice and vanilla on the nose then replay on the rich, mouth-coating palate. It’s dry, full bodied and robust with a long finish of dark berry fruit, spice and vanilla. Pour this approachable, fully-flavoured red with your favourite barbecued meats. (Lisa Isabelle)

91drink or cellar
The Hedonist Shiraz 2014
McLaren Vale $22.95 (90191) 14.0% alcohol
This certified organic and biodynamic red was aged 14 months in French and American oak and left filtered prior to bottling. Deep ruby coloured, the intense nose delivers rich aromas of dark cherry-berry fruit, milk chocolate, cedar, smoke and black pepper. Dry, full bodied with fine-grained tannins, there’s intense dark fruit flavour adorned with baking spice and vanilla carrying through the lengthy finish. (Lisa Isabelle)

88 drink or cellar
Trust Shiraz 2012
Central Victoria $28.95 (371468) 14.2% alcohol
Aromas of blackcurrant and cassis, garnished with dark chocolate, spice and eucalyptus excite the nose and reappear on the palate. Dry, medium-full bodied, ripe tannins and balancing acidity provide a framework for the core of dark fruit lasting through the mid-length dry, warming aftertaste. (Lisa Isabelle)

New Zealand: White Wine

90drink now
Astrolabe ‘Province’ Sauvignon Blanc 2016
Marlborough $24.95 (10421) 13.5% alcohol
The powerful nose offers an abundance of fruit aromas—passionfruit, melon, pear and peach—intertwined with notions of sweet pea, ginger and chamomile. Pronounced flavours of lemon, peach and pear are joined by a mineral undertone on the crisp, lively palate. This is dry, medium bodied and nicely textured with bright acidity throughout as tangy citrus notes linger on the long finish. (Lisa Isabelle)

New Zealand: Red Wine

88drink or cellar
Oyster Bay Pinot Noir 2016
Marlborough $20.95 (590414) 14.0% alcohol
Semi-transparent ruby in colour, attractive pipe tobacco and smoky notes mingle with red cherry and cranberry aromas. This dry, medium-bodied red balances fresh acidity and subtle tannins with tart red fruit, spice and earthy flavours. Warm on the finish, you’ll enjoy this with grilled salmon filet. (Lisa Isabelle)

South Africa: White Wine

89drink now
Ken Forrester ‘Old Vine – Reserve’ Chenin Blanc 2016

WO Stellenbosch $17.95 (231282) 13.5%

Fruit for this Reserve wine was sourced from 37-year-old vines. The wine spends nine months in French oak barrel, 20% new. It’s medium-golden yellow with a nose of royal gala apple, toast and butter. This is medium-to-full bodied with creamy mouth feel and flavours of apple, lemon and an absolutely luscious line of acidity. Pair with grilled jumbo prawns. (Dave Isaacs)

Germany: White Wine

91drink now
Domdechant Werner ‘Hochheimer’ Riesling Kabinett 2015
Pradikätswein Rheingau $19.95 (722413) 12.0% alcohol
Aromas of fleshy peach, ripe pear and candied lemon rind segue to a palate-bathing wash of red apple, nectarine and honeycomb flavours. Medium bodied, appearing off-dry, it’s well-balanced with a focused streak of acidity and a long, succulent finish. Pair with a spicy Szechuan-inspired shrimp stir-fry. (Lisa Isabelle)

France: White Wine

88drink or cellar
Louis Jadot Chablis 2015
AOC Chablis $32.95 (468751) 12.5% alcohol
This 100% chardonnay classic displays fresh peach, sweet apricot, buttery aromas and distinctive mineral notes. On the palate, lively flavours of red apple, peach and tangy Meyer lemon mingle with mineral layers suggesting briny and wet rock notes. This medium-bodied white offers a medium-length finish trailing citrus and mineral flavours. Pour with halibut fish and chips under a squeeze of fresh lemon juice. (Louise Boutin)

89drink now Exceptional Value!
Laurent Miguel ‘Nord-Sud’ Viognier 2015
IGP Pays d’Oc $14.95 (673236) 13.5% alcohol
Nord-Sud refers to the vines’ orientation exposing grapes to morning and late afternoon sun while protecting them from the withering, mid-day Languedoc sun. In addition, the fruit is harvested by hand during the night to preserve their freshness. This opens with a tempting bouquet of peach, pear, pineapple and white flower with vanilla undertones. A rich mouth-feel charms the palate with ripe peach and fresh apricot veiled in vanilla with oaky notes and a taste of green pineapple in the finish. Pair with creamy cheese or a chicken curry. (Louise Boutin)

87drink or cellar
Raimbault ‘Bel-Air’ Vouvray 2014
AOC Vouvray $21.95 (205468) 13.0% alcohol
This 100% chenin blanc from the Loire Valley opens on aromas of pear, yellow apple, citrus and honeysuckle. The ripe fruit on the palate suggests flavours of quince jelly and more residual sugar than the actual 7g/L… until tangy pink grapefruit and slate minerality clicks in to provide a dry, crisp, tasty finish. This medium-bodied, easy-drinking white can be enjoyed on its own or with a wide variety of fish and seafood dishes. (Louise Boutin)

France: Red Wine

88drink or cellar
Villa Ponciago ‘La Reserve’ Fleurie 2015
AOC Beaujolais $19.95 (299917) 13.5% alcohol
Unlike many, light fruity Beaujolais, this 100% gamay, from Fleurie—one of only 10 Cru appellations—shows character and structure. Ripe dark cherry, barnyard and savoury herb aromas define the nose. A charming fresh, silky mouth-feel—derived from partial aging in old oak barrel—introduces palate flavours of ripe red cherry, cranberry and wild blueberry with layers of dried herbs. The well-integrated tannins and balancing acidity enhance the pleasant finish and aftertaste. Pour with roasted chicken stuffed with fragrant fresh herbs. (Louise Boutin)

88cellar
Châteaux Bouscassé 2013
Grand Vin de Madiran $21.95 (734385) 13.5% alcohol
The Madiran appellation requires the robust, tannic, tannat grape to make up 70% of any blend, this one has some cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc. The robe is a striking opaque purple while alluring aromas are intense—black plum, blackberry, cassis combined with licorice, clove, cardamom and sweet smoke. The velvet-textured first sip is quickly joined by sour cherry flavours and still-evolving firm tannin leading to an astringent finish with notes of black-fruit, date and a smoky peppery warm aftertaste. Additional cellaring is required and rewarded; pop corks 2020 and beyond. (Louise Boutin)

Italy: White Wine

88drink now
Pighin Pinot Grigio 2017
DOC Friuli Grave $18.95 (987545) 13.0% alcohol
Very pale, lemon-green hued, this aromatic white packs a little more punch than your average pinot grigio displaying aromas of sweet citrus, orchard fruit and a pleasant honeysuckle note. Dry, medium-light bodied, ripe peach and tart lemon flavours are interlaced with a subtle floral note on the palate before finishing mid-length with a bright citrus tang.(Lisa Isabelle)

90drink now Exceptional Value!
Zenato ‘San Benedetto’ Lugana 2016
DOC Lugana San Benedetto $18.95 (707158) 13.0% alcohol
Lugana, a small appellation on the southern shores of Lake Garda in the Veneto region, is home to this unique, indigenous grape known locally as turbina or trebbiano di Lugana, although it is more closely related to Italian verdecchio. It’s bursting with summer fruit aromas and flavours—pear, apricot, honeydew melon and honey-drizzled citrus. Dry, medium bodied, soft and round in texture, the palate is juicy and bright offering a touch of fruit sweetness and a mineral note on the extended aftertaste. Pair with pan-seared scallops in a lemon-butter sauce. (Lisa Isabelle)

Italy: Red Wine

90drink or cellar
Lamole di Lamole Chianti Classico 2014
DOCG Chianti Classico $23.95 (476317) 13.5% alcohol
Blackberry and sour cherry aromas are accented with notions of savoury herbs, rooibos tea and an earthy mineral note on the nose of this well-balanced, Chianti Classico. The tasty palate features sunned redcurrant, plum, baking spice and dried herb flavours. Dry, medium-full bodied with good structure, a subdued mineral note appears on the lingering finish. Give this a go with tomato-based sauce and pasta. (Lisa Isabelle)

92drink or cellar
Masi ‘Costasera’ Riserva Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2012
DOCG Amarone della Valpolicella $69.95 (324137) 15.5% alcohol
The nose is bold and expressive displaying dried fruit, dark chocolate, anise and caramel notes interwoven with ripe plum and cherry aromas. The rich, luscious palate is blanketed with flavours of figs, prunes, kirsch liqueur, baking spice and vanilla. Dry, full bodied with moderating acidity, it finishes with a long, sweet, warming aftertaste. Enjoy with a braised venison stew. (Lisa Isabelle)

89drink or cellar
Remo Farina Ripasso Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2016
DOC Valpolicella Ripasso $18.95 (999946) 13.5% alcohol
Red fruit aromas are joined by notions of strawberry jam, cloves and black pepper on the nose of this easy-going red blend. The palate offers refreshing flavours of juicy red plum, strawberry, dried cherry and baking spice. Dry, medium bodied, well-balanced and flavourful, this will be enjoyable with grilled beef brochettes. (Lisa Isabelle)

Portugal: Red Wine

88drink or cellar
São Miguel ‘Escolha Dos Enologos’ 2015
Alentejano $22.95 (445122) 14.5% alcohol
This deep-opaque, ruby-hued blend—alicante bouschet, touriga franca, touriga nacional—was aged in French oak barrels for eight months and showcases ripe black-fruit aromas of blackberry, cassis, cherry with gamy, leather and savoury herb tones. A wash of ripe blackberry, cherry and tangy raspberry spreads across the palate followed by a grippy sensation framing the warm peppery finish. This is full-bodied and will benefit from a two-hour aeration/decant before enjoying with aged hard cheese or well-seasoned, rare-grilled red meat. (Louise Boutin)

89drink or cellar
José Maria Da Fonseca ‘Periquita - Reserva’ 2015
Vinho Regional Peninsula de Sétubal $15.95 (488007) 13.0% alcohol
This value-laden, red blend—56% castelão, 24% touriga nacional, 20% touriga francesa—is from a winemaking family dating back to 1834. Periquita has been made since at least 1850. This blossoms with aromas of black cherry and dark plum along with cassis, sweet cedar and a whisper of vanilla. The flavour profile on the palate is a vivid replay of aromas accompanied by tightly knit tannin and vivid acidity framing a medium-long, fruit-forward piquant finish. Aerate/decant 2 hours and pour now to 2023 with a grilled ribeye steak. (Louise Boutin)

Spain: Red Wine

92drink or cellar
Barón de Ley ‘Gran Reserva’ 2010

DOCa Rioja $29.95 (642496) 13.5% alcohol

This spent 24 months in 50/50 French and American oak barrel and a further three years in bottle before release. Licorice, tobacco and baking spice mingle with dark berry fruit aromas on the nose of this medium-bodied, nicely textured gem. A gorgeous wash of black berry flavour bathes the palate robed in peppery spice, complexity and charm. There’s persistent purity of fruit and a lengthy balanced aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)

85drink or cellar
El Gorú Monastrell/Syrah/Petit Verdot 2015

DOP Jumilla $13.95 (443945) 14.0% alcohol

This red blend is dominated by tart acidity, piquant spice and crunchy red fruit—currant, cranberry, pie cherry. It’s medium weight with good texture and a lengthy, tart and racy finish and aftertaste underpinned by drying tannin. Aerate/decant for two hours before serving—give it a go with pasta in tomato sauce. (Vic Harradine)

88drink now
Urbina ‘Reserva Especial’ 2001
DOCa Rioja $39.95 (511568) 14.0% alcohol

This was sourced from an organic blend of 95% tempranillo, 5% mazuelo/graciano grown on +50-year-old vines then aged two years in French and American oak. It shows a brown-orange hue on the rim along with floral, earthy notes and berry fruit on the nose. It bathes the palate with smooth round flow of racy pie cherry, ripe red plum and wisps of savory dill weed on the dry, balanced finish. Pour with manicotti. (Vic Harradine)

New in LCBO Portfolio

86drink or cellar Oh Canada!
Château des Charmes ‘Estate Grown and Bottled’ Pinot Noir 2016
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $16.95 (454967) 13.0% alcohol
A shy nose of red cherry, cranberry and strawberry with subtle earthy and mild vanilla notes introduce a medium-bodied wash of pie cherry with a sweet taste of ripe raspberry and a bay leaf savoury note. The still evolving young tannins provide structure and a grippy mouth-feel into the medium-long warm and sharp, fruity finish. This pinot will further evolve with additional cellaring to 2020. If pouring now, aerate/decant one hour and pair with well-seasoned, rare-cooked meat or a slowly-simmered chicken cacciatore. (Louise Boutin)

Cheers, Vic, Louise, Lisa