An explanation of the scoring system and icons is included at the end of this newsletter.
The catalogue for this release starts with wines from Washington and British Columbia, then continues with country-by-country listings.
Washington: white
Waterbrook Chardonnay 2004
Columbia Valley $15.95 (002154)
If you like a big-bodied, creamy-textured Chardonnay, full of rich, ripe tropical fruit aromas and flavours, this one's for you. It's got layers of intense fruit, good structure and lots of length. Drink it with richly-seasoned pork tenderloin or turkey breast. (RP)
Apex II Cabernet Franc 2003
Yakima Valley $27.95 (002683)
A 100% Cabernet Franc that delivers solid fruit in the aromas and flavours (plum and cherry are dominant) along with some spicy and herbal notes. It's quite complex, quite attractive, and there's some warmth in the mouth. Pair it with grilled lamb chops. (RP)
Hedges "Three Vineyards" 2003
Red Mountain $27.95 (001594)
Red Mountain is a small AVA in Washington that's gaining a reputation for its big reds. This is Hedges' flagship and it's well priced for what you get. It's a big, beautiful blend of Merlot and Cab (with Franc and Syrah in small quantities) that delivers dense dark fruit with accents of spice, coffee and leather. Enjoy this with well-seasoned lamb or other red meats. (RP)
L'Ecole No. 41 Syrah 2003
Walla Walla $37.95 (001388)
My notes start with "delicious and complex." This is a first-rate Syrah from a winery known for reliable quality. Look for fine ripe fruit throughout with notes of spice and pepper. The balance is fine and the finish is impressive. Drink it now (with grilled lamb) or hold it another three-four years. (RP)
Woodward Canyon Merlot 2001
Columbia Valley $46.95 (001420)
Washington is known for Merlot, and here's one of the reasons. It's a stylish Merlot that's packed with dark fruit flavours and some dried fruit (prune) notes. It's complex with a lovely, layered texture and light tannins. Drink it with pleasure now and over the next five years. (RP)
Mission Hill Pinot Gris Reserve 2005
VQA Okanagan Valley $19.95 (537076)
A very attractive Pinot Gris that pairs successfully with lightly-spiced fish and white meat dishes. It has pungent, spicy aromas of lemon-lime and apricot, a tangy texture and well-paced flavours that replay the aromas while upping the apricot-peach zones. (RP)
Gray Monk Pinot Noir 2004
VQA Okanagan Valley $17.95 (251835)
The Heiss family always offer visitors a warm welcome and well-made wines at Gray Monk. This Pinot Noir does the job very well. It's light-medium bodied with attractive aromas and flavours of strawberry and sweet plum. Well balanced and lightly tannic, it's perfect for grilled salmon with a maple glaze. (RP)
Emilio Lustau "East India" Solera Sherry
DO Jerez, Spain $15.95 (375 mL) (713636)
When you see "Lustau" on a wine, it is akin to a gold seal of approval. This perennial favourite is showing toffee, raisin and caramel on the nose coupled with a most scrumptious mélange of sweet fig, raisin and nutty flavours. Dense and intense, deftly balanced, the effect is amazing. Serve this dessert wine chilled; either on its own or matched to crème caramel, crème brûlée or any manner of dark spiced fruit cake. Stock up and drink over the next two years. (VH)
Peninsula Ridge "Inox" Reserve Chardonnay 2005
VQA Beamsville Bench $19.95 (007328)
Pen Ridge winemaker Jean-Pierre Colas shows off his Chablis background with this stunning unoaked Chardonnay. It delivers in quality and price and you should pick up a few of these for cellaring. Look for a rich, plush texture, gorgeous peach and tropical flavours, and marvellous balance. Open it with grilled seafood or firm white-flesh fish with a squeeze of lemon. (RP)
Trumpour's Mill Cabernet/Merlot 2004
VQA Ontario $16.95 (686162)
(reviewed previously in winecurrent) This blend (35% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Cabernet Franc and 30% Merlot) of Prince Edward County and Niagara fruit is a portend of the good quality wine you can expect from this burgeoning appellation. Beguiling aromas of spiced black plum, savoury and licorice form the segue to a rich and muscular red. Flavours include savoury spice and red cherry. The well balanced finish and terrific price point help make this an attractive buy. (VH)
Pedroncelli Petite Sirah 2002
Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma $16.95 (686691)
Pedroncelli is famous for its Zinfandel, but this lovely Petite Sirah adds to its reputation. It's full of concentrated ripe fruit flavours with spicy, peppery accents. Perfectly pitched and with impressive complexity, it's stylish and yet grounded. Pair it up with any well-seasoned red meat dish or with Portobello mushrooms. (RP)
Catena Cabernet Sauvignon 2003
Mendoza $19.95 (985002)
Red berry and spice notes dominate the aromatic profile of this stylish, medium-bodied Cab. Brace yourself for a big hit of fruit (rich black currant and plum) on the palate that has been deftly balanced with a judicious oak regimen, a generous tannin structure and just the right amount of racy tang to keep it from jammy. Drink this 2009 to 2015 with marinated, grilled flank steak. (VH)
Clos de Los Siete 2004
Mendoza $23.95 (622571)
Michel Rolland, of ‘Mondovino’ fame, or infamy, depending upon your point of
view, had a hand in this. It all begins with a subdued perfume of cherry,
tar and licorice then bursts on the palate with a layered fruit-forward attack of black cherry and currant that has been infused with cigar box and garrigue. The finish is lengthy, displaying a good dollop of tang and supple tannin. Best with red meats grilled on the rare side, now to 2012. (VH)
Viña la Rosa "La Capitana" Barrel Reserve Merlot 2004
Cachapoal Valley $14.95 (655209)
This winery seldom, if ever, takes a misstep and this medium to full-bodied stunner is right on the mark. Opening with a perfume that hints of mint and plum, it washes over the palate with layers of deep, rich, grainy dark chocolate and rich, ripe Bing cherry flavours. The lengthy finish is scrumptious with a gorgeous replay of fruit coupled with beautifully balancing acidity. The final half star was gained through the exceptional value it offers - stock up. (VH)
d'Arenberg "The Stump Jump" Riesling-Sauvignon Blanc-Marsanne 2005
McLaren Vale $13.95 (922203)
Vic and I agree that this is just a beautiful white blend at a great price. It's crisp and refreshing with gorgeous fruit (apricot pit-white peach zones) with minerality and spiciness to boot. Sip this during what's left of summer or pair it with spicy Asian food. (RP)
d'Arenberg "The Stump Jump" Grenache-Shiraz-Mourvèdre 2005
South Australia $13.95 (606236)
While you're picking up the white blend to sip before you throw some red meat on the barbie, grab a few bottles of this GSM. It's a great flavour sensation of sweet, dark fruit and berries, spice, and pepper. Medium bodied, nicely balanced and very well priced. (RP)
Hope Estate "The Ripper!" Shiraz 2003
Western Australia $17.95 (686865)
The orangey-mauve liquid in the glass appears to be showing some age - perhaps an effect from that long haul across the Nullabor, but there is good life left in this beauty. Mint and cherry on the nose, it gets into high gear on the palate with a huge sweet (14% alcohol) fruit attack of raspberry and cherry compote complemented with spice and peppery notes. The finish, layered and lengthy, echoes these flavours. (VH)
Pillar Box Red Cabernet/Shiraz/Merlot 2004
Padthaway, South Australia $14.95 (685941)
This 57% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Shiraz, 11% Merlot red blend from the cooler Padthaway wine region was fashioned by renowned Barossa wine maker, Chris Ringland. Opaque and brooding, there are quiet aromas of gamey smoked meat and black plum that waft from the glass. The sweet (15% alcohol) fruit (spicy plum, black currant and juicy red berry) explodes in layers and washes over the palate right through the lengthy finish. A deftly handled oak regimen (hardly a trace in the taste) and delicately balancing acidity make this one of the 'must buys' of this release. Unfined and unfiltered, it will drink well through 2008. (VH)
Goldridge Estate Premium Reserve Sauvignon Blanc 2005
Marlborough $18.95 (912329)
A crisp, lively SB that features gooseberry and white grapefruit on the nose and palate. Higher in acidity than many of its peers, but not at all unpleasantly so. This is a great match for freshly-shucked oysters. (RP)
Goldridge Estate "Premium Reserve" Pinot Noir 2004
Marlborough, South Island $21.95 (684498)
Again we see that Marlborough is no one trick pony as this Pinot easily stands alongside their world class Sauvignon Blanc. Cinnamon and earthy notes intermingle nicely with the red currant aromatics on the nose of this medium-bodied gem. With delicious Montmorency cherry and cranberry flavours to the fore, the toasty oak, finely grained tannin and generous dollop of tang all coalesce to fashion a well-balanced Kiwi. Pour now to 2010, slightly chilled, with smoked duck breast. (VH)
Stadt Krems Grüner Veltliner "Sandgrube" 2005
Kremstal $14.95 (687913)
From its unique glass stopper to its long involved finish, this well-priced, medium-bodied white is worthy of your attention. An intriguing nose offers anise and floral notes. The creamy texture is brimming with tropical fruit (nectarine, peach) plus green apple flavours. The dry, clean finish and soft acidity offers more tropical fruit and a touch of citrus. Would marry well to lemon veal. (VH)
"No Man's Land" Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot 2003
Thracian Lowland $12.95 (672949)
Despite the involved geo-political message on the back label, the wine makes the simple statement that it's very good value. It offers a richly perfumed nose of spiced cherry and plum compote. The medium-bodied texture is infused with rich dark berry fruit flavours and the clean dry finish is lengthy, zesty and well balanced. Try with burgers, pizza and good friends of all political stripes. (VH)
Joseph Mellot Sancerre "La Chatellenie" 2004
AOC Sancerre $22.95 (525154)
The lovely straw-coloured nectar in the glass gives off aromas of mineral and slate. The mouth feel of this medium-bodied, almost creamy, white is a-typical and fabulous. You will be treated to tropical fruit and white grapefruit flavours followed by a lengthy tangy, spicy and cleansing finish. This cries out for seared scallops drizzled with freshly squeezed lemon juice. (VH)
Château Coucheroy 2003
AOC Pessac-Léognan $17.95 (944983)
Aromatics of tobacco, red berry and black pepper drift off the glass of this medium-bodied blended red; half Cabernet Sauvignon, half Merlot. This has oodles of black juicy fruit flavours on the palate that intermingle with spice box nuances. More ripe fruit on the long finish, but also gobs of grip and tang to keep it well balanced and a cellar candidate. Even though it's from relatively young vines, this is one classy number with its high profile provenance and extremely attractive price point. Drink 2009 to 2018. (VH)
Domaine des Aspes Merlot 2002
Vin de Pays d'Oc $12.95 (951665)
A pleasing and lifted nose of cherry compote and prunes forms the entrée to this medium-bodied, fat in flavour red. Sweet black fruit (Bing cherry and currant) flavours abound on the palate and the finish. This is smooth and easy and will make no enemies. Take advantage of the wonderful price point by stocking up and serving now to 2008 alongside the meat-based dishes you serve at your home during the week. (VH)
Château Raspail Gigondas 2003
AOC Gigondas $25.95 (910927)
Oh, my, this Grenache-predominant blend is stunning! Cigar box, leather and dark chocolate on the nose, it is rich with dense, concentrated waves of black berry fruit flavours. Predominantly spiced black bramble berry, but lots going on with tar and licorice flavours, as well. This is medium-bodied, exhibits fine ripe tannin and has great balance. The finish is lengthy and elegant. Drink now to 2015 with a grilled slab of beefsteak. Worth every penny. (VH)
Schloss Schönborn Riesling Kabinett 2002
QmP, Hattenheimer Pfaffenberg $17.95 (928184)
Slate, mineral and floral aromas blow off this medium to full-bodied 'off dry' white. The flavours wash over the palate in waves, first green apple and pear, then sweet nectarine and peach followed by a wonderful citrus tang. The finish is lengthy and luxurious. Drink now with all manner of spicy Asian cuisine or cellar for ten years, waiting for those intriguing petrol aromas to develop, then savour on its own as an aperitif. (VH)
Boutari "Grande Reserve" 2000
AO Naoussa $14.95 (140111)
This is showing its age, but is well worth a purchase given the rich, sweet fruit flavour profile and six years of ageing in someone else's cellar, on their dime. The sweet flavours of cherry and strawberry compote are a perfect foil to the tangy and tannic finish. Pour over the next 12 months with burgers or pizza. (VH)
Maculan Pinot Grigio 2005
DOC Breganze $13.95 (734921)
This medium-bodied white opens with an interesting nose of nutmeg and floral notes then drenches the palate with white peach and green apple flavours. Well balanced and cleansing, the finish is moderate in length and long on plum fruit and citrus. Would pour well with grilled white fish, simply prepared chicken or veal. (VH)
Tedeschi "Capitel San Rocco" Ripasso 2004
DOC Valpolicella Superiore $11.95 (375 ml) (003020)
Hedonistic, luscious and prodigious, this medium-bodied blend is absolutely stunning. The involved and lifted nose offers truffles, tar and tobacco aromas. Rich sweet fruit (bramble berry and black currant), enhanced by underpinnings of a glorious Amarone-like bite and ripe tannin structure, provide a density of flavour and delicate balance that is not to be missed. The seemingly endless finish is memorable. Drink over the next 3 or 4 years, given the 375 ml size that doesn't age particularly well. (VH)
Cheers,
Rod and Vic
We use the following symbols when rating wines:
| Wines achieving nirvana |
| | Wines of excellence |
 | Wines well worth trying |
 | Wines below average, but drinkable |
 | Wines better avoided, unless desperate |
 | Represents a half star |
| We both agree —a brilliant wine! |
| Drink now and over the next 2 years |
| Drink now and over the next 5 years |
| Place in cellar |