February 27, 2018 Newsletter
NEW from Vintages!
The LCBO recently announced that ALL wines released through Vintages in the bi-weekly program will be available online, in limited quantities. Read and learn more on the Vintages site.
Lisa Isabelle and Louise Boutin — you’ll find an interesting array of grapes and appellations along with reviews from these two winecurrent writers who did all the heavy lifting for the following newsletter. You might find it challenging to uncover many of the hidden value wines in this release. We encourage you to read the reviews as well as the points; you’ll be pleasantly surprised at the perspective you’ll gain.
Newsletter Highlights include:
- Exceptional-value wine – 9 of 50 wines currently available at LCBO retail meet the strict quality-price guidelines. They range from $13.95 to $18.95 and are found throughout the newsletter easily identified via the exceptional-value checkmark above. Strict guidelines? Click here.
- 95 and over – no wines currently available at retail scored 95 or over.
- Lisa Likes – Hidden Bench Estate Winery Chardonnay 2016 earning 92 points @ $29.95 found under Ontario: White Wine; Stratus Vineyards ‘Weather Report’ Red 2013 earned 91 points @ $29.20 found under Ontario: Red Wine; Peter Franus ‘Brandlin Vineyard’ Zinfandel 2014 earned 92 points @ $57.95 found under California: Red Wine.
- Louise Loves – Viña Tabalí ‘Talinay’ Sauvignon Blanc 2016 earned 90 points @ $23.95 found under Chile: White Wine; Invivo Pinot Noir 2016 earned 92 points @ $24.95 found under New Zealand: Red Wine; Donatello Cinelli Colombini Brunello Di Montalcino 2012 earned 90 points @ $64.95 found under Italy: Red Wine.
- Vic Picks – 2027 ‘Falls Vineyard’ Riesling 2016 earned 91 points @ $18.95 found under Ontario: White Wine.
Identify the LCBO store nearest you with stock of any wine with an LCBO product number by clicking on the number shown in brackets in wine reviews then clicking on ‘Select Stores’ and entering your postal code—the number of bottles available in stores near you is displayed—or by clicking ‘Check all stores’ where you’ll see stock available in all LCBO stores. For Vintages Release wines, stock should be displayed the Friday before a Saturday release, updated every 24 hours, some stores post earlier. LCBO Portfolio wines (wine not in Vintages) should always closely reflect stock in stores, updated every 24 hours. However, it’s always best to phone stores before making a trip.
Vintages Release: March 3, 2018
Fortified Wine: Port
91
Messias 10 Anos Tawny Port
Portugal $26.95 (87205) 20.0% alcohol
This 10-year-old Tawny is structured, complex and value packed; it warrants your consideration. It's chockfull of spice, caramel, marmalade, nutty and fig flavours. Wonderfully viscous and warm on the palate, it delivers a fully textured and well-structured river of treacle-like flavours that pair perfectly with spice cake, crème brûlée or a salty aged hard cheese like Parmigiano Reggiano. (Vic Harradine)
Fortified Wine: Sherry
89
Williams & Humbert ‘Walnut Brown - Rare Old Brown’ Oloroso
Jerez, Spain $13.95 (437467) 19.5% alcohol
What a treat - what a bargain. Dark amber with tinges of green on the edges; the aromas are divine—Oloroso means ‘scented’ in Spanish—with dark raisin, caramel and fig predominant. Warm and sweet on the palate, look for the aromas to follow through to flavours plus some lovely spice and nutty notes. The long sweet finish of this dessert wine cries out for spiced nut cake or ginger snaps. (Vic Harradine)
Ontario: White Wine
91
2027 ‘Falls Vineyard’ Riesling 2016
VQA Vinemount Ridge, Niagara Peninsula $18.95 (294041) 10.0% alcohol
Aromas of sharp spice, racy lime and ripe pear billow from this just-barely yellow-hued, single-vineyard riesling. It explodes on the palate with a gusher of lime cordial and crisp green apple framed by electrifying tang and acidity. The dry, mouth-watering, lip-smacking finish lingers luxuriously. This sips well on its own and truly shines served with a baguette and charcuterie board. (Vic Harradine)
90
Cave Spring ‘Estate Bottled’ Chardonnay Musqué 2015
VQA Beamsville Bench $16.95 (246579) 13.5% alcohol
Hailing originally from Burgundy, this aromatic clone of chardonnay offers a basket of orchard fruit aromas with lovely floral notes. A stream of ripe apple and pear flavours flow across the palate with hints of honeysuckle, orange blossom and ginger adding interest. Dry, medium bodied with a softly weighted mouthfeel, notions of peach and orange zest persist through the refreshing mid-length finish. Enjoy this well-priced white with mildly spiced prawn and coconut curry. (Lisa Isabelle)
91
Henry of Pelham ‘Family Tree - White’ 2016
VQA Niagara Peninsula $17.95 (251116) 13.5% alcohol
The collective effort of neighbouring vineyard owners go into this eclectic blend of 40% chardonnay, 29% viognier, 19% gewürztraminer and 12% chardonnay musqué. A lovely fruit cocktail bouquet—Golden Delicious apple, ripe pear, and peach complemented by honeysuckle, ginger and a musky note waft from the glass. This is medium weight and crisp on the palate with generous orchard fruit flavours and a zesty ginger-flecked finish. This is versatile at the table and a great dance partner with various fish or chicken dishes. (Louise Boutin)
92
Hidden Bench Estate Winery Chardonnay 2016
VQA Beamsville Bench $29.95 (68817) 13.0% alcohol
This is an outstanding expression of certified-organic Niagara chardonnay. Pronounced aromas of red apple, white grapefruit, butterscotch and vanilla segue to a creamy-textured wash of apple, tangy citrus and spice notes on the palate. Dry, medium bodied, it’s well-balanced with a long, mouth-watering, mineral-laden finish. Delicious on its own or enjoy with almond-crusted halibut fillets. (Lisa Isabelle)
91
Tawse ‘Limestone Ridge - North Block’ Riesling 2015
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $24.25 (431593) 10.0% alcohol
Alluring aromas of orchard fruit, lemon zest, Kaffir lime leaf and a hint of petrol open this well-balanced Riesling. Medium bodied, with some sweetness to counterpoint the backbone of lively acidity, flavours of Granny Smith apple, pear and white grapefruit engulf the palate while a hint of honeysuckle lingers on the long, mouth-watering finish. This would pair nicely with spicy, tuna roll sushi. (Lisa Isabelle)
Ontario: Red Wine
89
Casa-Dea Pinot Noir 2013
VQA Prince Edward County $21.95 (296210) 12.4% alcohol
Subtle aromas of red cherry, plum and strawberry jam with hints of earth and smoke open this well-balanced cool-climate pinot noir from the county. Dry, medium-light bodied with firm tannins, the palate is enlivened with tart cherry and cranberry flavours mingling with allspice and mineral notes persisting into the lengthy, drying finish. The well-defined structure would make this a fine pairing with traditional cassoulet. (Lisa Isabelle)
88
Featherstone ‘Red Tail’ Merlot 2016
VQA Niagara Peninsula $21.95 (131540) 13.0% alcohol
Ripe dark fruit aromas—blackberries and cherries—with nuances of spice, thyme and sweet pipe tobacco announce this dry, mid-plus weight enjoyable red. Showcasing bright acidity, dark plum, blueberry and cherry flavours accented with fruitcake spices are enjoyed through the lingering, tasty fruit finish. Serve with braised short ribs. (Lisa Isabelle)
91
Stratus Vineyards ‘Weather Report’ Red 2013
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $29.20 (552604) 13.4% alcohol
This is the first vintage of this unique wine through which winemaker J-L Groux offers a view of the 2013 growing season in a unique blend of 7 grape varieties: cabernet franc, cabernet sauvignon, petit verdot, merlot, syrah, viognier and tempranillo. The aromas are layered—dusty mineral notes, violet, grilled herbs and ripe fruit over blackcurrant, blueberry and cherry. There’s great concentration of fruit on the palate with savoury notes of cedar, tobacco and grilled bell peppers woven through flavours of dark berry fruit and plum. Dry, full bodied with well-defined structure, it delivers a long, warming finish. Enjoy with slow-roasted lamb shanks. (Lisa Isabelle)
89
Tawse ‘Unsulfured/Unfiltered’ ‘Redfoot Vineyard’ Gamay 2015
VQA Lincoln Lakeshore $28.95 (546465) 12.5% alcohol
Earthy notes, pipe tobacco and gamy aromas on the nose—it settled briefly in only seasoned French oak barrels—this washes over the palate silky smooth and medium bodied. Beetroot with tangy tart red currant and notions of kirsch liqueur bathe the palate. The dry, lingering finish and aftertaste replay palate flavours along with delightful pie cherry tang and charry notes. (Susan Desjardins)
91
Thirty Bench ‘Small Lot’ Pinot Noir 2015
VQA Beamsville Bench $35.20 (461566) 13.4% alcohol
This limited-production red—only 220 cases—was produced from fruit sourced from estate grapes spending 12 months maturing in oak barrels before bottling. A lovely tapestry of aromas and flavours weave together showcasing tart red fruit, spice, smoke and tobacco. It’s dry, medium bodied and nicely balanced with perceptible, ripe tannin and clean acidity adorned with spiced cherry flavours extending through the lengthy finish. Serve this well-crafted red with duck breast and redcurrant jelly. (Lisa Isabelle)
California: White Wine
87
William Hill North Coast Chardonnay 2016
North Coast $19.95 (288555) 14.0% alcohol
Fruity and fresh, this California chardonnay was produced with grapes sourced from cooler vineyards in the Sonoma, Mendocina and Solano Counties. Baked apple, peach, citrus and grilled pineapple aromas are seasoned with notions of spice and vanilla. Dry and medium bodied, a fruit cocktail of flavours bathe the palate—tangy citrus, melon and ripe apple. It finishes mid-length with a hint of sweet vanilla on the aftertaste. Enjoy with skillet-seared pork chops and sautéed apple. (Lisa Isabelle)
California: Red Wine
89
Cannonball Cabernet Sauvignon 2014
California $24.95 (291666) 13.8% alcohol
This will be a hit at the upscale summer BBQ you've been planning. It's dark plum, almost opaque, with an inviting nose of coffee, chocolate, and strawberry. It's full bodied, with flavours of coffee, chocolate, vanilla, and cherry peeking around a wall of firm, well-integrated tannins. The vanilla and coffee linger through the finish reminiscent of café au lait. Enjoy it alongside medium-rare BBQ steak, with a dab of spicy steak sauce on the side. (Dave Isaacs)
92
Peter Franus ‘Brandlin Vineyard’ Zinfandel 2014
Mount Veeder $57.95 (57331) 14.8% alcohol
The grapes for this blend of 90% zinfandel and 10% charbono, mourvèdre and carignan come from vines over 90 years of age. It matured for 17 months in French oak, 35% new, before bottling. Aromas of peppery spice, leather, floral notes and ripe dark fruit abound in this dry, full-bodied zin. Flavours of blackberry and dark plum wash over the palate sweetened with notions of strawberry jam, vanilla and spice. Nicely weighted, it finishes medium-long with firm tannins, moderating acidity and enduring dark fruit flavour. (Lisa Isabelle)
89
Frei Brothers ‘Reserve’ Pinot Noir 2014
Russian River Valley $28.95 (91025) 14.1% alcohol
This tangy pinot was aged in 3 types of oak barrels—French, Hungarian and American—for 10 months before bottling. Cherry, raspberry and red currant aromas are complemented by suggestions of cloves, violet and smoke. Tart and lively flavours of cranberry and pomegranate unite with dark chocolate and earthy notes on the palate. It’s dry, medium bodied with gentle tannins and finishes warm and mid-length. Serve alongside beet carpaccio salad. (Lisa Isabelle)
92
The Hess Collection ‘19 Block Mountain Cuvée’ 2015
Mount Veeder $54.95 (18879) 14.5% alcohol
This blend of 52% malbec, 34% cabernet sauvignon, 6% syrah, 2% petit verdot was fashioned with premium fruit from 19 blocks of the Veeder Summit Vineyard. Opaque in the glass, ripe and fruity on the nose, it offers intense aromas of cassis, cherry and dark plum complemented by notions of mint chocolate, black pepper and smoke. Dry, full bodied, the palate is dominated by a wash of ripe dark berry fruit adorned with sweet vanilla and spice. Balanced by supple tannins, fresh acidity and a rich mouthfeel, there’s purity of fruit through the long finish. (Lisa Isabelle)
Washington State: White Wine
89
Columbia Crest H3 Chardonnay 2014
Horse Heaven Hills, Columbia Valley $20.95 (441998) 13.5% alcohol
Sixty-percent of this wine was aged in a combination of French and American oak with the balance only seeing stainless steel maintaining the unique fruit and mineral characteristics of wines from this region. An expressive nose offering aromas of orchard fruit, honey and vanilla segue to flavours of caramel apple, vanilla bean and butter on the richly textured palate. Dry, medium bodied, a vibrant spine of acidity maintains freshness through the long, flavourful finish. (Lisa Isabelle)
Argentina: White Wine
• Susana Balbo is Argentina’s first women oenologist who gained international recognition working for major wineries in South America, Australia and the U.S. She’s been running her own winery since 1999 and now counts on her children’s support to continue her innovative winemaking journey as shown in the Torrontés below.
89
Susana Balbo ‘Signature - Barrel Fermented’ Torrontés 2016
Uco Valley Mendoza $19.95 (384339) 13.0% alcohol
The initial canned-pea aroma recedes after a vigorous swirl, freeing an aromatic profile of tropical fruit, orange blossom and ginger. On the palate, ripe pear and pineapple flavours marry with honey and vanilla notes hinting at the brief time in new French oak barrel. This is medium-bodied with a nice round mouth-feel and a well-balanced spicy finish. Give this a go with pad Thai. (Louise Boutin)
Argentina: Red Wine
89
Altaland Cabernet Sauvignon 2016
Salta $17.95 (543371) 13.5% alcohol
Aromas of ripe black cherry pointing at kirsch liqueur meets green bell pepper and vanilla notes in the expressive nose. A silky flow of ripe black fruit flavours—cherry, blackberry and cassis—merge with baking spice delivering a fruit-forward/cinnamon piquant finish with savoury notes on the aftertaste. This is medium-full bodied, well structured and a match for an economical green pepper and steak stir fry, now to 2026. (Louise Boutin)
• Patagonia is Argentina’s emerging winemaking region praised for its unique cool, breezy, dry climate that’s favourable to grape growing. Bodega Aniello owns a small parcel on the north bank of the Negro river where a variety of alluvial soils is believed to add a mineral profile to their wines. The following 2016 Aniello ‘006 Riverside Estate’ Pinot Noir presented below is an excellent expression of the varietal grown in this exotic region. In layman’s terms, the ‘006’ refers land and its boundaries, in this case, their vineyard, in what is often called a cadastral map.
87
Bodega Aniello ‘006 Riverside Estate’ Pinot Noir 2016
Rio Negro Valley, Patagonia $17.95 (542092) 12.7% alcohol
This opens with a burst of red fruit aromas —raspberry, cranberry, ripe red cherry—joined with fresh rose petal and a whiff of cedar. Tart cranberry takes the lead on the flavour trail before ripe red cherry, mineral notes and a subtle touch of spearmint merge in to define the fresh delicious finish. It’s medium-light bodied with well-integrated young tannin adding structure and character to this new-world pinot. This is a perfect partner to grilled fillet of rainbow trout. (Louise Boutin)
92
Fabre Montmayou ‘Reserva’ Malbec 2015
Lujan de Cuyo, Mendoza $17.00 (261867) 14.0% alcohol
This deep, purple-staining 100% malbec is the result of Bordeaux finesse meeting Mendoza‘s best soil. Hand-harvested fruits from vines planted in 1908 translate into intense aromas—ripe black plum, green bell pepper and chocolate undertones—opening the gates to a full-bodied and softly polished wash of ripe black plum, cassis and mocha flavours leading to a long, fresh and balanced, peppery/fruity finish. This is a versatile, charming malbec. Pour with beef, onion and bell pepper brochettes. (Louise Boutin)
Chile: White Wine
90
Viña Tabalí ‘Talinay’ Sauvignon Blanc 2016
Coastal, Limari Valley $23.95 (542241) 13.5% alcohol
The cool climate and limestone soil define the character of the vineyard from which the hand-harvested fruit was sourced for this wine. Fresh Granny Smith apples, lime and grassy notes escape from the glass. On the palate, there’s a rush of crisp green apple, lemongrass and white pepper flavours tracing the way to a refreshing, bright honeydew melon and mineral finish.
Try goat cheese crostini for a traditional pairing. (Louise Boutin)
Chile: Red Wine
86
Carmen ‘Gran Reserva’ Carmenère 2015
DO Colchagua Valley $17.95 (439166) 14.0% alcohol
Long believed to be merlot, French-native carmenère found its soul in Chile where it’s the most planted and most used grape in single-varietal red wines. This offers an earthy/vegetal nose—wild mushrooms, cedar and green bell pepper with black plum aromas emerging in the background. The first taste exposes more fruit-based flavours—black cherry, cassis and plum—then freshly cracked black peppercorn on the finish. Firm tannins add desired structure to this medium-full bodied Chilean red. It pairs well with rare-grilled striploin. Aerate/decant 1-2 hours before service. (Louise Boutin)
91
Emiliana Coyam 2013
DO Colchagua Valley $29.95 (63891) 14.5% alcohol
With cedar and smoke on the nose, this red blend—primarily and in descending order, syrah, carménère, merlot, cabernet sauvignon—sports a rich and luscious, balanced and beautiful wash of palate-bathing flavour—black plum compote and juicy dark Bing cherry interlaced with mixed spice, mocha and notions of grilled savory herbs. It’s medium-full bodied with excellent mouthfeel, depth, structure and a lengthy, dry finish and aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)
90
Montes ‘Alpha’ Pinot Noir 2015
DO Aconcagua Coast $19.95 (143214) 14.0% alcohol
Aromas of freshly crushed red cherry and savoury herbs rub elbows with smoke and gamy notes in this new-world pinot. On the palate, red cherry leads the way with tangy pomegranate and bay leaf flavours veiled in soft, polished tannins. This medium-bodied red offers persistent purity of fruit to enjoy from start to finish. It’s an excellent partner to grilled salmon. (Louise Boutin)
Australia: Red Wine
88
Hancock & Hancock Vineyard Shiraz/Grenache 2015
McLaren Vale $19.95 (530097) 14.0% alcohol
This rich red blend—57% shiraz/43% grenache—offers a charming nose of ripe black plum, blackberry, fresh rose petal and a hint of vanilla aromas. Juicy black plum continues to take centre stage on the palate along with tangy red cherry and softly textured tannins working their way through a medium-long, fruit-forward, peppery finish. This medium-full bodied red will be a hit with baby, back ribs brushed with barbecue sauce. (Louise Boutin)
89
Jim Jim (The Down-Underdog) Shiraz 2014
South Australia $16.95 (682005) 14.5% alcohol
Medium-red hued with oodles of eucalyptus, pepper, red fruit and vanilla on the nose, this offers the down-under Shiraz experience at a very good price. It's full bodied and smoothly textured with juicy flavours of vanilla and cherry jam followed by a juicy lingering finish. Pair with slow-grilled, pulled pork. (Dave Isaacs)
89
Two Hands ‘Fields of Joy’ Shiraz 2015
Clare Valley $29.95 (432963) 15.0% alcohol
Aromas of black plum compote, blackberry, vanilla and freshly cracked peppercorn fill the air from this bold Australian red. Cooked spicy black fruit flavours hit the tip of the tongue before spreading over the palate like a warm blanket then joining the lengthy, ripe fruit, drying finish and menthol aftertaste. This undoubtedly full-bodied wine will be further enhanced with a two- to three-hour hour aeration/decant or further cellaring to 2027. Sip on its own or serve with a platter of aged-cheese. (Louise Boutin)
• The following Wakefield ‘Jaraman’ Cabernet Sauvignon and its label have quite a story to tell. You may have noticed the three tiny Seahorses on Wakefield wine labels. Shortly after the Taylor family purchased their Clare Valley property they dug a dam uncovering tiny shells of Seahorses. In geological terms that indicates a former salt-water body of water (true Seahorses live only in salt, or brackish water) and this would lead one to believe there’s also limestone base. There was and still is, and it, and the terra rossa topsoil, contribute to the high quality of this and all Wakefield, Clare Valley wines. Jaraman translates to ‘horse’ in a number of Australian Aboriginal languages and dialects.
89
Wakefield ‘Jaraman’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2014
Clare Valley/Coonawarra, South Australia $24.95 (142398) 14.5% alcohol
The Clare and Coonawarra regions both have cool-ish climates and it’s reflected nicely in the excellent balance of fruit and tang in this particular offering. Savory herbs, piquant spice and floral notes mingle with mixed field berry aromas before a vibrant, lively river of crunchy red fruit—pie cherry and cranberry—envelop the palate along with riper, dark fruit—currant and black cherry. The palate fruit is robed in excellent, racy tang and decorated with savory herbs, dark bittersweet chocolate and wisps of drying tannin. Aerate/decant for three hours pouring with rare-grilled, well-seasoned flank steak. (Vic Harradine)
New Zealand: White Wine
88
Greywacke Sauvignon Blanc 2016
Marlborough, South Island $24.95 (164228) 13.0% alcohol
Greywacke refers to a common round river-stone found in the vineyards of the Rapaura area on the South-Island. This is classic Marlborough expression of sauvignon blanc where canned-pea clouds fresh aromas of lime, elderflower and fresh, wet-rock minerality. The fruit is quite vibrant on the palate—Granny Smith apple, Meyer lemon and tart green grapes—nicely interweaving with a mild savoury bite on the mouth-watering finish and aftertaste. It’s ready to go now, on its own or paired with freshly shucked oysters. (Louise Boutin)
87
Kim Crawford Pinot Gris 2017
Marlborough, South Island $19.95 (369850) 13.0% alcohol
This more recent addition to a popular New Zealand brand’s portfolio is proposed in a discrete aromatic version—pear, citrus, honeysuckle and nutmeg. This is medium-bodied, coating the palate with flavours of ripe pear, pink grapefruit, honey and ginger teasing the tip of the tongue on the lingering warm and spicy finish. This is a good partner to your Asian-inspired recipes. (Louise Boutin)
86
Mohua Sauvignon Blanc 2015
Marlborough, South Island $18.95 (536219) 12.5% alcohol
This newly minted winery produced a fruit-forward, aromatic sauvignon blanc—green apple, pineapple and pear with white blossoms and a canned-pea scent. It’s dry, crisp and fresh on the palate with lime, fennel and pungent apple flavours complemented by saline minerality and a mild tasty bite on the finish and aftertaste. Pour with shrimp and fennel salad with a squeeze of lime juice. (Louise Boutin)
New Zealand: Red Wine
92
Invivo Pinot Noir 2016
Central Otago $24.95 (466029) 14.0% alcohol
This pinot, from the world’s most southern wine region, has a pleasing, unique offering. Aromas of über-ripe red and black cherry, raspberry, tobacco, leather and dry savoury herbs abound. It’s silky-smooth on the palate with soft tannins adorned with perfectly ripened red cherry flavours enhanced with fresh mint on the lengthy finish. It’s well textured, medium-full bodied, showing character, finesse and excellent purity of fruit. It can cellar up to ten years, but hard to resist now. This is divine with pressed chicken breasts and dried cherries. (Louise Boutin)
South Africa: White Wine
89
Spier ‘Vintage Selection’ Chenin Blanc 2015
WO Swartland $17.95 (455618) 14.0% alcohol
Aromas of honeysuckle flinty/mineral notes and orchard fruit open the door for a medium-plus bodied, smooth-as-silk river of ripe white nectarine and honeydew melon juxtaposed with tangy citrus. It finishes with more of the same, well priced, well paced and a lengthy, mouth-watering good aftertaste. Sip on its own or with roast chicken, pork cutlets or pan-seared, freshwater pickerel. (Vic Harradine)
South Africa: Red Wine
• Pinotage is the result of the crossing of pinot noir and cinsault. It was created in 1925 at Stellenbosch University, South Africa by Dr. Abraham Perold, Professor of Viticulture. It was originally called Hermitage, later changed to pinotage avoiding confusion with the Hermitage and Crozes-Hermitage regions in France. The following 2015 Neil Ellis Stellenbosch Pinotage is from, arguably, one of South Africa’s top-ten pinotage producers.
87
Neil Ellis Stellenbosch Pinotage 2015
WO Stellenbosch $17.95 (542167) 14.5% alcohol
This is 100% pinotage displaying ripe fruit aromas—black cherry, blackberry, black plum—along with mocha notes and a scent of oak revealing a 15-month stay in diversely mature French oak barrels. A charming gusher of ripe black cherry and blackberry-dipped, bittersweet chocolate pave the way to a dry-fruity finish. It’s medium-full bodied benefitting from a one- to two-hour aeration/decant. Enjoy with duck confit and fresh, herb-seasoned pasta. (Louise Boutin)
France: White Wine
88
Domaine Sylvain Langoureau Saint-Aubin 2015
AOC Saint Aubin $41.95 (538454) 13.8% alcohol
This Burgundian chardonnay from the Côte de Beaune region delivers aromas of red apple, lemon zest, white flowers and spice. Dry, medium bodied with balancing acidity and a round mouthfeel, the palate is subtle and shy with flavours of yellow apple and lemon entwined with spice. Finishing mid-length with a pleasant mineral note, pair with whole-roasted salmon with lemon and herbs. (Lisa Isabelle)
87
Domaine du Bois-Malinge Sur Lie Muscadet Sèvre et Maine 2016
AOC Muscadet Sèvre et Maine $14.95 (224246) 12.5% alcohol
There’s exceptional value in this 100% melon de Bourgogne from the Loire Valley. The nose offers aromas of green apple, zesty citrus and a pleasant bread dough note from time spent on its lees. Dry, light bodied, fresh and crisp, tart apple and lemon flavours refresh the palate while a vein of minerality extends through the mid-length finish. Enjoy as an aperitif or with moules frites. (Lisa Isabelle)
89
Sabots de Vénus ‘Apremont’ Savoie 2016
AOC Savoie $18.95 (538371) 11.5% alcohol
This refreshing white, produced from jacquère grapes from the mountainous Savoie region, opens with aromas of apple, peach and yellow plum accented with honeysuckle and a mineral note. Dry, medium-light bodied, a flavourful stream of yellow apple and plum with a suggestion of honey cleanses the palate. Lively and fresh on the lengthy finish, this would make this a fine pairing with ham and scalloped potatoes. (Lisa Isabelle)
France: Red Wine
89
Bastide ‘Miraflors Vielles Vignes’ Syrah/Grenache 2015
AOP Côte de Roussillon $19.95 (320499) 14.5% alcohol
This syrah/grenache is a 70/30 blend that’s smooth and mellow on the palate before firming up on the finish and aftertaste with perceptible tannin. Crunchy red fruit and ripe mulberry interweave with spice and gamy notes on the nose and replay on the palate. This is medium bodied with good structure and lots of life ahead. Aerate/decant two hours before serving. (Vic Harradine)
89
Louis Bernard Vacqueyras 2015
AOC Vacqueyras $19.95 (546051) 14.0% alcohol
This southern-Rhône grenache/syrah blend opens with characteristic spiced red fruit aromas with notes of Mediterranean herbs and tobacco. It’s dry, medium-full bodied and smooth on the palate with well-integrated alcohol. The palate is juicy and ripe with red cherry, dark plum and tobacco flavours flowing effortlessly. Spice notes reappear on the lengthy finish. Serve this good-value red with a braised winter stew. (Lisa Isabelle)
89
Jean-Max Roger ‘Cuvée la Grange Dîmièxre’ Sancerre Rouge 2013
AOC Sancerre $29.95 (539858) 12.5% alcohol
Subtle and shy on the nose, this pinot noir from the Loire Valley slowly reveals cherry and cranberry aromas with hints of herbs, black pepper, earth and spice. The palate is bright and fresh with flavours of tart cherry, forest floor and a savoury herb note persisting through the mid-length, drying finish. Try this dry, medium-light bodied red with pan-seared trout. (Lisa Isabelle)
Italy: White Wine
86
Kellerei ‘St. Magdalena’ Pinot Grigio 2016
DOC Südtirol - Alto Adige $17.95 (249466) 13.5% alcohol
This easily tops your average pinot grigio; starting with the fragrant nose—ripe pear, pink grapefruit, honeysuckle and fresh grassiness. Medium-bodied and nicely textured, it coats the palate with rich, ripe orchard fruit flavours complemented with a good tang and delicious mineral notes. The pleasant finish and aftertaste lingers on nutty bitterness. Serve alongside a roasted butternut squash and pasta sprinkled with toasted pine nuts for a delicious, aromatic pairing. (Louise Boutin)
86
Bricco Riella Moscato D’Asti 2016
DOCG Moscato D’Asti $13.95 (378380) 5.0% alcohol
Aromas of delicate white blossoms, candied lemon zest, ripe poached pear drizzled with honey and sharp ginger introduce this alluring, spritzy gem. Bubbles expand into a light soft foam on the palate carrying the honeyed orchard fruit flavours through the piquant ginger finish. This light, easy-drinking delight is an inspired pairing to eggs Benedict or try with a simple fruit flan. (Louise Boutin)
Italy: Red Wine
86
Carpineto Chianti Classico 2015
DOCG Chianti Classico $19.95 (356048) 13.0% alcohol
This Tuscan blend of 80% sangiovese along with canaiolo and other red grapes presents a mature nose with aromas of dry fruit, leather, forest floor and wisps of red cherry. The palate profiles bright red and black fruit—tart cranberry, blackberry and red cherry—along with licorice and dry sage notes all persisting through the drying, enjoyable finish. This is medium-bodied and a go-to red for spaghetti Bolognese. Aerate/decant one hour before serving. (Louise Boutin)
90
Donatello Cinelli Colombini Brunello Di Montalcino 2012
DOCG Brunello Di Montalcino $64.95 (113357) 14.0% alcohol
This 100% sangiovese offers a captivating bouquet—ripe red cherry, red plum and dry fig aromas melding with old leather and tobacco notes. A rich flow of dry fig flavour joined by pomegranate and red cherry tartness is adorned with baking spices and licorice coating the palate. This is medium-full bodied with a long piquant finish and still evolving ripe firm tannin. Patience will be rewarded on to 2025. Can’t wait? Aerate/decant three hours and pair with slow-cooked beef short-ribs. (Louise Boutin)
Romania: Red Wine
85
La Putere Feteasca Neagra 2016
Romania $14.95 (178830) 13.5% alcohol
This fruit-driven red showcases feteasca neagra—aka, black maiden—a grape indigenous to Romania - Moldova. Blackberry, plum, violet, spice and a toasty note segue to a rush of dark berry fruit flavours with vanilla and spice notes. Dry, medium-full bodied with a mid-length spicy finish, enjoy with burgers and oven-baked fries. (Lisa Isabelle)
Spain: White Wine
• The following 2016 Paco & Lola Albariño white wine is a favourite in tapas bars and outdoor cafes in Spain. Albariño is the top grape in the DO Rias Baixas wine area located in northwestern Spain in the Galicia region.
90
Paco & Lola Albariño 2016
DO Rias Baixas $18.95 (350041) 13.0% alcohol
Lively aromas of slate and mineral blend with floral and pit fruit before unleashing a sweet and tang surge of lime cordial, soon joined by lemon curd, blood orange and saline minerality on the long, crisp, clean and lip-smacking aftertaste. Pour alongside ceviche, freshly shucked oysters under a dot of hot sauce and generous lemon squeeze or sushi. This offers very good value and opportunity for a multiple purchase. (Vic Harradine)
Spain: Red Wine
89
López de Haro Crianza 2013
DOCa Rioja $13.95 (377481) 13.5% alcohol
Consistently offering excellent value, this blend of tempranillo, garnacha and graciano was matured for 18 months in French and American oak barrels before release. Aromas of blackberry, cherry, vanilla and spice repeat on the palate joined by chocolate-covered espresso bean and savoury herbal notes. Dry, medium-full bodied and nicely structured, blackberry and sweet vanilla flavours extend into the tasty finish. You can’t go wrong picking up a couple of bottles to serve with grilled chorizo sausages. (Lisa Isabelle)
Upstream in winecurrent
Vintages Release: Fall 2018
88
Bodegas Salentein ‘Reserve’ Malbec 2016
Uco Valley, Mendoza $17.00 (640854) 13.0% alcohol
The grapes for this appealing and accessible red were grown on some of the highest elevation vineyards in the world on the eastern slopes of the Andes. Aromas of blackberry, plum, and dark raspberry meld with exotic spice, delicate floral notes and hints of mocha. Dry, medium-full bodied, the palate flavours are tangy and fresh—redcurrant, blackberry, tea leaves and espresso bean. Well-balanced with fined-grained tannins, piquant spice notes unfold into the lengthy finish. Pour alongside a mixed grill or your latest chili iteration. (Lisa Isabelle)
Cheers, Vic, Lisa, Louise