Rod Phillips' recently published book Ontario Wine Country is now available in all major bookstores. It provides comprehensive and compelling coverage of Ontario's wine appellations, sub-appellations and all premiere wineries within them. You will find a brief history of the Ontario wine industry, fascinating quotes from the people who formed, and are still forming it, along with photos and a telling insight into its future. This is a 'must have' book for anyone with an interest in wine, especially for those who love to drink it.

This release begins with and features a selection of Rieslings from around the world. It then plays out with a variety of wine in the usual country groupings. The wines reviewed here are in the order they appear in the Vintages catalogue.

Kendermanns Dry Riesling "Schiefer" 2004
QbA Mosel-Saar-Ruwar $15.95 (678052)
This is a Riesling pitched somewhere between dry and off-dry. The perception will depend on what you eat with it. The fruit is prominent (peach-melon-pear zones) and it's balanced with sweet lime acidity to provide a clean, crisp finish. The texture is full and generous, and this goes very well with spicy Asian dishes. (RP)


Kendermanns Dry Riesling "Kalkstein" 2004
QbA Pfalz $15.95 (678060)
Off-dry with a good dose of sweet citrus acidity that complements the primary flavours of peach, apricot and tart and sweet apples. This is medium bodied and well balanced, and the crisp texture and bright flavours should lead you toward spicy (but not too hot) Asian cuisine. (RP)


Kendermanns Dry Riesling "Roter Hang" 2004
QbA Rheinhessen $15.95 (678078)
A well-balanced Riesling that delivers spicy tropical fruit with sweet honeyed notes. There's a bit of a tangy texture that flows through to a crisp finish. Drink this with grilled shrimps marinated in ginger and garlic. (RP)


Lingenfelder "Bird Label" Riesling 2004
QbA Pfalz, Estate Btld. $13.95 (568634)
Lingenfelder is one of the stars of the Riesling Revival. His vineyards produce consistently fine and affordable Rieslings, and you'll find this one is elegant and attractive. The aromas and fruit are mainly light tropical, and they're balanced with good acidity for a crisp wine that will serve well as an aperitif or as a partner to grilled shrimp. (RP)


Johann Geil I. Erben Riesling Spätlese 2004
QmP, Bechtheimer Geyersberg, Estate Btld. $15.95 (994780)
A really delicious, sweet, rich Riesling that would make a fine partner to seared foie gras. The dominant fruit is stewed pear, and it's accented with notes of peach, apricot and tropical fruit. It's smooth and luxurious with beautiful weight and balance and shows just how fabulous German sweet wines can be. (RP)

Lucien Albrecht Riesling Réserve 2004
AOC Alsace $15.95 (745000)
A well-made Riesling, quite characteristically Alsatian, that delivers vibrant peach, sweet melon and tropical flavours with attractive spicy notes. It's crisp and well balanced with a clean finish, and pairs well with spicy Thai cuisine. (RP)

Château des Charmes Riesling 2004
VQA Niagara Peninsula, Estate Btld. $15.95 (277228)
This has a light yellow appearance with just a hint of green, displaying its cool climate origin. A lifted nose of spiced green apple and slate is the perfect segue to the clean fruit flavours of citrus and ripe peach. The finish has that glorious sweet and sour tang that pairs so well with Asian dishes - try a chicken stir fry with just a touch of spice. (VH)

Riesling: Other Countries

Chateau Ste Michelle Riesling 2005
Columbia Valley $16.95 (685651)
Look for a muted nose of pit fruit with a slight floral aroma. Light bodied, but with good balance and structure, this offers tangy lime and green apple flavours with more of the same replayed on the refreshing clean finish. This would go well in starting a meal, say smoked salmon, cream cheese and capers on a crusty baguette. (VH)


D'Arenberg "The Dry Dam" Riesling 2005
McLaren Vale, South Australia $15.95 (942953)
From a winery noted for their outstanding reds, this is equally well made. Lemon and apricot aromatics waft from the glass and then the fun starts. Rich, complex and almost creamy on the palate, it bursts forth with layers of ripe fruit and tangy citrus flavours before the lengthy and luxurious finish kicks in. This deserves a place at your table alongside a scallop and shrimp ceviche. (VH)


Leasingham "Magnus" Riesling 2004
Clare Valley, South Australia $15.95 (675306)
Classic aromas of citrus, slate and peach form the involved nose. This is medium bodied with predominant flavours of spice and tropical fruit. It cleans up nicely with a well balanced finish of citrus and more tropical fruit flavours. Match to canapés of smoked salmon and dill on roggenbrot. (VH)


Babich Dry Riesling 2004
Marlborough, South Island $15.95 (642694)
Hints of petrol drift off the nose of this medium bodied Kiwi from a region more famous for its Sauvignon Blanc. The flavours are quite expressive - tangy citrus, ripe peach and pear plus a hint of cleansing minerality. One of those 'well' wines - well-made, well-balanced and well-priced, so you do not have to worry about going there too often. A lovely quaffing wine or a nice match to shrimp or salmon appetizers. (VH)


Siefried Riesling 2005
Nelson, South Island $16.95 (989541)
Tucked away in the northern tip of the South Island, Nelson is a small wine region, better known for its artists than its wine. Let's keep it that way so as to not drive up the price of this one. From the very inviting nose of green apple and passion fruit to the zesty citrussy finish, this is gorgeous. The flavours (quince, passion fruit and lemon zest) are racy, but the mouth feel is almost fleshy. It cleans up nicely and would stand proud beside your family's Sunday pork roast. (VH)


Bernard-Massard Riesling Grand Premier Cru 2003
Côtes de Grevenmacher AOC Moselle Luxembourgeoise $16.95 (685297)
This is a very well-paced Riesling, and a bit intriguing because it's from Luxemburg's small wine industry. (Luxemburg has the highest per capita wine consumption in the world, and clearly relies on imports to satisfy its thirst.) This is nice and crisp, dry and minerally, with aromas and flavours in the white peach, apple and pear zone. There's a slight bitter note at the end, but it adds to, rather than detracts from, the clean, crisp finish. Pair this with freshwater fish like pan-fried trout and slivered almonds. (RP)

El Maestro Sierra Fino Sherry
DO Jerez $15.95 (674077)
Sherry lovers will flock to this. It has all the characteristics wine lovers appreciate; a beautiful balance of briny, citrussy flavours coupled with a creamy mouth feel. Where this departs from the norm is in the finish. It is evolved and muscular, not for the faint of heart and demanding a cuisine accompaniment. Pair to freshly shucked oysters with freshly squeezed lemon or mussels in an herb and caper marinade. (VH)

D'Oliveiras
Madeira $15.95 (677955)
A quite delicious Madeira that delivers a lightly-viscous mouthful of warm orange peel with notes of malt and honey. Toward the finish, notes of roasted nuts click in, and it finishes complex and sweet, but not at all cloyingly so. Sip this with roasted nuts at the end of a meal or late at night. (RP)

Kenwood Merlot 2003
Sonoma County $25.95 (717348)
Loads of ripe, black plum aromas emanate from the nose of this medium to full-bodied keeper. A gutsy Merlot with ripe black fruit flavours, grainy tannin, and 13.8% alcohol. So much for 'cool climate' Sonoma! This is complex with character, displaying it through deft balance and a lengthy luxurious finish. Drink 2008 to 2012, but if you can't wait, decant 3 or 4 hours before serving with rare, grilled strip loin. (VH)


Columbia Crest "Two Vines" Shiraz 2002
Columbia Valley $15.95 (672428)
This Shiraz is a barn burner. Black raspberry and plum aromas waft from the nose with more of the same offered on the medium to full-bodied palate. It has great balance with full fruit flavours, good grip and a lovely tang to clean it all up. Not at all jammy or monochromatic, this has a touch of class and elegance. Would pour well with rack of lamb. Exceptional value. (VH)

L.A. Cetto Chenin Blanc 2005
Valle de Guadalupe, Baja California $9.95 (683979)
An a-typical Chenin Blanc, but with a charm of its own and under ten dollars, do you care? Vanilla and peach on the nose with pleasant green apple and tropical fruit flavours on the medium to full-bodied palate. The finish has a touch of sweetness that says this would be a suitable aperitif wine served chilled on the patio or nicely paired to lightly spiced chicken or veal dishes. (VH)

L.A. Cetto "Private Reserve" Nebbiolo 2001
Valle de Guadalupe, Baja California $18.95 (590182)
Not one Mexican restaurant I've eaten at in the last six months has had any Mexican wine, even though it appears in the LCBO/Vintages now and again. There are a couple in this release, including this rich, almost jammy Nebbiolo that comes across as more generic than varietally true. The dominant aromas and flavours are dark berries and black plums, there's a nice layer of spice, and the tannins are big and gripping. I suggest pairing this with a pepper steak rather than any Mexican dish I can think of. (RP)

Mulderbosch Sauvignon Blanc 2005
WO Stellenbosch $18.95 (933424)
Both Rod and I loved this. Not much change from a twenty, but worth every penny. This racy SB starts off with aromatics of lime and grassy notes then hits its stride with as gorgeous a mouthful of Sauvignon Blanc - full-bore lemon and peach fruit flavours and a satiny textured feel - imaginable. It finishes clean and zesty, which would suggest seared scallops with a drizzle of lemon for a partner. (VH)

Mulderbosch "Faithful Hound" 2003
WO Stellenbosch $19.95 (922443)
A well-made blend that stars Cabernet Sauvignon (54%) and Merlot (34%), with walk-on parts by Shiraz, Malbec and Cabernet Franc. It's all about big dark fruit (cherry and plum) with tarry, smoky accents, and it has a tangy texture. Try it with a grilled veal chop with caramelized onions. (RP)

Domaine Bouchard Père & Fils Beaune sur les Grèves 2002
AOC 1er Cru Beaune $42.95 (683680)
Look for a round and generous texture in this attractive Beaune, along with clean, balancing acidity. The flavours are quite intense peach and tropical, with hints of caramel, and this makes a wonderful companion to roasted pork tenderloin with an apricot salsa. (RP)


Domaine le Verger Chablis 2004
AOC Chablis $21.95 (684654)
An attractive Chablis with much of the character you associate with the region. It's crisp and dry, with nice aromas and flavours of white peach, apple and pear, accompanied by some citrus and austere mineral notes. Medium bodied and well balanced, it's a great partner for raw oysters or grilled seafood of all kinds, served with a light squeeze of lemon. (RP)


Les Jamelles Viognier 2004
Vin de Pays d'Oc $11.95 (682757)
This quite luscious Viognier from south-western France offers very good value. Pour a glass and you'll have a mouthful of vibrant, spicy fruit, with pear, peach and apricot to the fore. With all the rich fruit, it's very well balanced and makes an excellent partner with spicy seafood dishes. (RP)

Château Bel Orme Tronquoy-de-Lalande "St-Seurin de Cadourne en Médoc" 2000
AOC Haut-Médoc, Cru Bourgeois $28.95 (512111)
A fairly classic style of Haut-Médoc and from an excellent vintage. This is dry with aromas and flavours of cassis, plum and cherry accented with spice and some leather notes. The tannins are firm and manageable, and overall this wine is quite stylish. Open it when you're serving grilled or roast lamb. (RP)


Château du Prieuré des Mourgues "Grande Reserve" 2002
St-Chinian $17.95 (993642)
A blend of 70% Syrah, 20% Grenache and 10% Mourvèdre, this offers aromas of dense sweet dark fruit and candied fruit. To the dark fruit flavours, add tar and smoke, along with spice and pepper, and you have a lovely, concentrated, rich red that cries out for a piece of grilled red meat. (RP)


Lurton-Lahore Bergez  "Cuvée des Ardoises Château des Erles" 2003
AOC Fitou $16.95 (949222)
The tannins here are still pretty big, but if you decant the wine or pair it up with a juicy, medium-rare (at most) steak, you'll do fine. It's a blend of Carignan, Syrah and Grenache, and delivers flavours of sweet fruit and berries with spicy and gamey notes. (RP)

Planeta Chardonnay 2004
IGT Sicilia $37.95 (979476)
If you like your Chardonnay lean and crisp, don't buy this. It delivers a luscious mouthful of big, ripe, peach and tropical fruit, with layers of toasty oak notes. It's smooth, round and generous in texture but it's balanced toward food. Pair this with planked salmon fillets or with lobster. (RP)

Giacomo Fenocchio Barolo Bussia 2000
DOCG Piedmont $54.95 (712273)
The brick orange colour of this Barolo is indicative of its age and the Nebbiolo grape from which this traditional-styled wine is made. It has an intriguing nose of violets and red currants. The mouth feel is a bit grainy with juicy black fruit flavours still competing with noticeable tannin. The finish is lengthy and portends more life for this beauty. Drink 2008 to 2012. (VH)

"Domino de Ugarte" Reserva 2001
DOC Rioja $19.95 (684621)
Cherry and blueberry aromas form the pleasant nose of this 95% Tempranillo, 5% Graciano blend. Smooth and well balanced, it offers a sweet core of cherry and red licorice flavours with balancing, racy acidity. The finish is smooth and involved, primarily coffee, spice and more ripe fruit. Decant beforehand and drink with medium-rare grilled beef or squirrel away and drink 2008 to 2014 with a very good friend. (VH)

These are new wines, or new vintages of existing wines, on the LCBO General List.

Banrock Station Shiraz 2004
Australia $13.90 (668962) 1L
Turning your nose up at screw caps and wine in a box? Get over it, these easy drinking wines are quaffable, affordable and downright handy. Pepper and spice and plum fruit that is nice, that's what this wine is made of. Light to medium bodied, mellow and warm, it would be the perfect companion to grilled burgers. A $1.25 million donation is going to the "Bring Back the Salmon Lake Ontario" fund from Banrock and every wine purchase helps sustain that. (VH)


Deakin Estate Chardonnay 2005
Victoria $10.05 (588418)
Vanilla and tropical fruit aromas set up this medium-bodied, well-priced white. There are full fruit (peaches and green apple) flavours with a light touch of oak and these carry through to the clean and refreshing finish. Lovely on its own, it would also be well served with a crisp green salad topped with light vinaigrette and grilled chicken strips. (VH)


Penfolds "Koonunga Hill" Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon 2003
South Eastern Australia $16.10 (285544)
Pleasant plum and gamey notes waft from the nose of this medium-bodied Aussie crowd pleaser. The flavours (black licorice, savory plum, spiced currant) are sweet, juicy, rich and complex. A touch of oak, a dash of zest and a lengthy finish mark this a winner. Fairly priced, but a bargain until May 21, at the discounted tag of $14.60 (VH)


Wolf Blass "Eaglehawk" Chardonnay 2005
South Eastern Australia $12.10 (606392)
This is a good example of why Australia is successful. It's just a very well-made wine that sells at a competitive price. You can't go wrong. For your $12 you get flavours of vibrant, attractive fruit (peach and tropical), a palate-pleasing round texture, and a crisp finish. It's a natural for a wide range of dishes, including roast chicken, pork tenderloin, and grilled white fish. (RP)


Wyndham Estate "Bin 444" Cabernet Sauvignon 2002
South Eastern Australia $16.00 (110486)
The cherry and eucalyptus nose opens the door to an extremely well balanced Cab. The mid-palate is sweet (14.5% alcohol) currant and black cherry fruit wrapped around ripe tannins and deftly-handled oak. The lengthy, almost brawny finish suggests it has the verve to match up to a garlic-slathered medium-rare, grilled steak. (VH)

Reif Estate Gamay Rosé 2005
Ontario $10.95 (669366)
This lovely summer sipper has a lifted nose of sweet cranberries then rolls it out on the palate with sweet and involved fruit flavours that include currant, strawberry and spice. There is deft balance, a lengthy fruit forward and tangy finish at a great price point. Great with all manner of canapés. (VH)

Baron Philippe de Rothschild "Mouton Cadet Blanc" 2004
AOC Bordeaux $12.95 (2527)
One of those wines you haven't tried in years? Pity. This has become a world-wide favourite now selling 15 million bottles per annum. The nose is sweet tropical fruit with a hint of vanilla and the flavours are warm and mellow with pear and apple to the fore. It is medium-bodied and held together by a lengthy finish and enough acidity to make it clean and refreshing. Incredible price for a wine of this provenance. (VH)

Mondavi "Woodbridge" White Zinfandel 2004
California $9.95 (249656)
Peppery, stewed fruit aromatics greet the taster while the flavour profile lies in the apricot and peach spectrum. It has good balance and finishes with a zesty tang. Low alcohol (10%) and under ten dollars, this was made to start off that garden party as a refreshing aperitif and/or to match the light nibblies being passed around. (VH)


Pacific Wine Partners "Twin Fin" Cabernet Sauvignon 2002
California $13.95 (613273)
Remember when you often bought California Cab that was delicious, interesting and affordable? Two ex-pat Aussie winemakers have hit it big with this luscious new listing. It has gobs of black fruit, minty aromas and flavours plus a zesty tang and enough grip to provide structure and balance. It's new, it's hip, it's wisely under screw cap and it's lip-smackin' good. (VH)

Rating System 

We use the following symbols when rating wines:

	Wines achieving nirvana
	Wines of excellence
	Wines well worth trying
	Wines below average, but drinkable
	Wines better avoided, unless desperate
	Represents a half star
	We both agree —a brilliant wine!
	Drink now and over the next 2 years
	Drink now and over the next 5 years
	Place in cellar

Cheers, Vic and Rod