Rod Phillips' recently published book Ontario Wine Country is now available in all major bookstores. It provides comprehensive and compelling coverage of Ontario's wine appellations, sub-appellations and all premiere wineries within them. You will find a brief history of the Ontario wine industry, fascinating quotes from the people who formed, and are still forming it, along with photos and a telling insight into its future. This is a 'must have' book for anyone with an interest in wine, especially for those who love to drink it.

If you're in Ottawa, you can buy Rod's book and have it signed on Friday, April 28, between 5 and 8 pm, at the LCBO at Rideau and King Edward. This is a drop-by occasion, and Ontario winery Henry of Pelham will be pouring some of their wines. There's a second opportunity on the following Friday (May 5), from 7 to 9 pm, at Nicholas Hoare Books, 419 Sussex Drive, Ottawa. This is a wine and cheese where Rod will talk (briefly) about "Ontario in the World of Wine" and, again, sign his book. The cost of this event is $10, payable at the door, but you must book beforehand by leaving a message at 613 241 7155 or by e-mailing This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it..

This release begins with and features a selection of wines from major Australian wine regions. It then fans out in the usual country groupings. The wines reviewed here will be in the order that they appear in the Vintages catalogue.

Katnook Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2005
Coonawarra, South Australia $22.95 (737122)
One of those Wow! wines that jump from the glass with quintessential SB grassy and gooseberry aromas. Just as explosive on the palate, it offers big citrus and mineral flavours that form a tangy, clean and refreshing finish. Pricey, but a stellar match to lightly seared scallops, drizzled with freshly squeezed lemon. (VH)


Long Flat Cabernet Sauvignon 2003
Coonawarra $15.95 (682021)
A well-made Coonawarra Cab that delivers solid flavours of ripe dark fruit with well-defined mint and spicy notes. Well priced, well paced and with a good tangy texture and light tannins, this goes very well with grilled red meat. (RP)


Wakefield Merlot 2004
Clare Valley, South Australia $17.95 (683201)
A very lifted nose of spice and berries greets the lucky taster. This is a blockbuster of a wine with all elements present to help it go the distance. It has gobs of black, ripe fruit, still grippy tannins and a delicious fruity tang on the finish. Give this some time to knit together. Drink with any manner of medium rare beef 2010 to 2015. Great value. (VH)


Jim Barry "The McRae Wood" Shiraz 2002
Clare Valley $42.95 (737817)
Jim Barry wines are consistently fine, and this McRae Wood fits the profile. Look for a Shiraz that's big and fruit-forward in the Australian style, but has impressive structure and complexity. Enhancing the flavours of ripe black fruit (cherry, plum) and berries, you'll find notes of smoke, mint, chocolate, coffee, and leather. The high alcohol (15.5%) has been well handled, and overall this is a rich, stylish, focused Shiraz that makes a fine partner to rich red meat dishes. (RP)


Pirramimma Petit Verdot 2002
McLaren Vale $21.95 (986752)
I wait for this wine every year. There are several producers of varietal Petit Verdot in Australia but, for my money, Pirramimma delivers the most consistent quality year after year. The 2002 delivers lovely complex dark fruit and berry flavours, with notes that include coffee, smoke, tobacco, and pepper. It's dry, medium-plus bodied and has quite firm tannins. If you must drink this in the next couple of years, decant it first, then pair it with red meat grilled medium-rare at most (RP)


Hugh Hamilton "The Mongrel" Sangiovese Blend 2005
McLaren Vale $16.95 (675603)
A real Euro-blend from the Antipodes, with 85% Sangiovese, 10% Merlot and 5% Tempranillo, and what a great mouthful, even though it's very young. Look for big, black cherry fruit with accents of spice, pepper and earthiness, dry texture and firm tannins. The finish is long with additional notes of chocolate and coffee. It's a bit awkward right now, and will repay cellaring a couple of years. Drink it with well-seasoned grilled lamb. (RP)


Rosemount 'Balmoral' Syrah 2001
McLaren Vale, South Australia $64.95 (388918)
Very ripe and jammy fruit aromas form the segue to an a-typical Balmoral Syrah. It is huge and furry in the mouth with noticeable tannins that are not yet tamed by the rich and concentrated stewed fruit (spicy plum and black tarry cherry) flavours. The finish is quite astringent. Hide deep in the cellar and retrieve in 2012. (VH)


Nepenthe 'Charleston' Pinot Noir 2003
Adelaide Hills, South Australia $17.95 (682054)
From a premium Aussie producer, this has some exceptionally endearing qualities. Amongst them are the delicate balance of mellow fruit (plum and rich cherry) flavours, deft handling of oak, and an extremely well balanced and lengthy finish. The price point, from one who has spat through many over-priced Pinots, is superb. Smoked duck breasts or roasted Cornish game hens would pair well. (VH)


Peter Lehmann 'Barossa' Riesling 2004
Barossa, South Australia $14.95 (636993)
A zingy nose of sharp citrus aromas - from the higher and cooler Eden Valley portion, one would suspect - zaps from the glass of this bracing, yet fruity, white. There are some very ripe flavours of lemon and pineapple that would marry well to all manner of grilled white fish with a squeeze of lemon or a seafood stir fry. (VH)


Penfolds "Bin 138" Grenache-Shiraz-Mourvèdre 2003
Barossa Valley $29.95 (468637)
The quite luscious aromas are dominated by sweet raspberry and cherry, and they replay as complex flavours accented by pepper and an array of spicy notes. Medium bodied, dry with moderate tannins, it's drinking fine now but could use a year or so to integrate. What you'll end up with is a stylish, well-structured GSM that will be a treat when paired with grilled lamb. (RP)


St. Hallett 'Faith' Shiraz 2004
Barossa, South Australia $19.95 (980631)
An unusual nose of medicinal and jammy tones that opens up to a medium-bodied, creamy mouthful of ripe cherries and black licorice. The finish is nicely balanced, spicy and medium in length. Would certainly shine when matched to a T-bone. (VH)


Wolf Blass 'Platinum Label' Shiraz 2002
Barossa, South Australia $99.95 (968123)
There is absolutely nothing subtle about this. Spiced plum and black fruit aromas rip from the glass of this gargantuan red. The flavours are a bomb blast of ripe, black, juicy fruit with a lacing of oak and a tangy zestiness that portends an almost perfect balance, when ready to drink. This stellar cellar dweller should be squirreled away until 2012 then enjoyed over the following 5 years with medium-rare backstraps of lamb. (VH)

Craneford Viognier 2005
Adelaide Hills, South Australia $16.95 (683805)
Great typicity in this well made dry Viognier, from the sweet floral nose to the peach, pear and apricot flavours. It is medium to full-bodied with a rich and creamy finish that is fruit forward and lengthy. This is all well balanced with a zest that suggests linguine and clam sauce as a partner. Viognier is a difficult grape to work. Compared to many, this is good value. (VH)


Craneford 'John Zilm' Merlot 2004
Barossa Valley, South Australia $39.95 (662809)
An opaque brooding monster lurks in the glass of this classic Merlot. The nose is all freshly crushed raspberries with gamey and tar notes. The palate is attacked with a huge grippy mouthful of ripe and juicy fruit that lingers well on the lengthy finish. This has all the balance and guts to be an outstanding match to grilled medium-rare strip loin from 2009 to 2013. (VH)

Regional Blends - we must point out that South Eastern Australia, a super-zone and not a state, covers ALL of Australia's wine regions except for the very small, but significant ones in the state of Western Australia. There is considerable difference in size from the relatively small state of South Australia and the vast area of South Eastern Australia that covers +95% of vineyards in Australia.


Hardy's 'Bankside' Chardonnay 2005
South Eastern Australia $16.95 (675298)
The textured and expressive nose on this lovely Chard provides tropical fruit and vanilla aromatics. The tropical fruit replays on the flavour and along with some citrus notes, provides a clean attack and finish on this dry, well balanced and medium to full-bodied offering. This has enough verve to pair well with rich, creamy chicken dishes or Chicken Kiev. (VH)

Long Flat Chardonnay 2004
Yarra Valley, Victoria $15.95 (682039)
The green tinge in this lovely white is a hint it comes from a cooler climate, there are not many of those in Australia, and few better than the Yarra. This wine is all about subtle rich flavours and being clean and crisp. Green apple and pear aromas follow through on the palate and absolutely everything is in balance. One of those wines to caress on the patio on a warm summer's day, but would easily pair with lemon veal. (VH)


Mitchelton "Blackwood Park Estate" Cabernet Sauvignon 2003
Central Victoria $19.95 (678219)
A well-made Cab with a solid core of ripe dark fruit (cherry, plum, berries) accented with spice and chocolate notes. Medium bodied, well structured, dry, and manageably tannic, it's well priced and a very good partner for a grilled veal chop in red wine reduction. (RP)


Pfeiffer Rutherglen Muscat
Rutherglen, Victoria $18.95 (675637)
A wonderful wine, unique pfrom its copper-coloured, green tinged appearance to its unctuous and lengthy pfinish. This pfortified (18% alc.) dessert wine has aromas and pflavours of raisins, toffee, caramel and pfigs. Pfeifer is noted pfor their Tokay, but try this anyway. The wine is multi-vintage with a blend pfrom 6 to twenty year old. Have with rich dark pfruit cake or on its own with some toasted almonds on the side. (VH)


Mitchelton "Blackwood Park Estate" Cabernet Sauvignon 2003
Central Victoria $19.95 (678219)
A well-made Cab with a solid core of ripe dark fruit (cherry, plum, berries) accented with spice and chocolate notes. Medium bodied, well structured, dry, and manageably tannic, it's well priced and a very good partner for a grilled veal chop in red wine reduction. (RP)

Windshaker Ridge Carnelian 2004
Western Australia $18.95 (683250)
The perfect wine when your guest is a wine-know-it-all and thinks he/she can identify any wine blind. Carnelian is a cross of Carignan and Cabernet Sauvignon which was then crossed with Grenache, and this is the first time I've tasted it. It struck me as well made and enjoyable, with the Grenache and Carignan ancestry coming through much more than the Cab. Look for sweet red berry flavours with spicy accents and a hint of rusticity in the texture. It's a natural for ribs and grilled red meats. (RP)

Benwarin Semillon 2005
Hunter Valley, New South Wales $17.95 (683235)
Benwarin is a small Pokolbin producer with a quest for quality. This has that classic appearance of light straw with a green tinge. Hints of honey on the fairly muted nose give way to laser-like citrus and white peach flavours. Stick one away for 6 or 7 years to see if it develops into one of those classic aged Semillons for which the Hunter is so famous. Buy two and try one with barbie-grilled prawns smothered in garlic butter. (VH)

Angels Gate 'Single Vineyard' Gewurztraminer 2004
Beamsville Bench, VQA Niagara Peninsula $18.95 (678409)
Rose petal and spice aromatics set up this medium to full-bodied white. The fleshy mouth feel also offers a big attack of spice and citrus while the finish provides a nice taste of that classic lime peel bite on the cleansing sign-off. Spicy Asian or East Indian cuisine would match well. (VH)

Concha y Toro "Trio" Merlot-Carmenère-Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
Rapel Valley $14.95 (433920)
This is very good value for a quite big wine that delivers solid black fruit with attractive accents of spice, coffee and chocolate. It's well balanced, moderately tannic, and a fine partner for flavourful red meat and game dishes. (RP)

Jean Geiler Riesling Lieu-Dit Steinweg 2004
AOC Alsace $17.95 (685347)
A Riesling that's slightly off-dry to dry in style, with dominant flavours of peach, apricot and mineral notes. Medium weight, it offers a generous texture, and pairs very well with lightly-spiced Asian dishes. (RP)

Pommard Clos de la Platière 2003
AOC Pommard $45.95 (681841)
The aromas kick off with a hint of barnyard-something I haven't detected in many Burgundies recently-then kicks in with lovely plum and cherry fruit and spice. There's a core of intense, ripe fruit here (think of that torrid 2003 growing season), all sweet, perfumed cherry with some tart cherry notes. The medium weight and balance are just right for the flavour intensity, and the tannins are good and manageable. This is a wonderful partner for grilled lamb or duck. (RP)


Château Étang des Colombes 2003
AOC Corbières 375ml/$10.95 (681932)
The Vintages catalog points out that this 375ml bottle is ideal "when it is just the two of you and you don't fancy a full bottle." Right, as long as the other is the cat, and the cat doesn't drink. When the wine is as attractive as this, you might want more than an airline-sized serving with your grilled lamb. A blend of Grenache, Carignan, Syrah and Mourvèdre, it's well structured and in a definitive old world style. Look for complex flavours of dark fruit and berries with spice and herb notes. (RP)


Tardieu-Laurent "Les Grands Augustins" 2004
Vin de Pays d'Oc $17.95 (971341)
Made on the 'less is more' principle, this Syrah was fermented with wild yeast, aged in older barrels, and wasn't fined. The result is a somewhat rustic-textured red with red and black fruit and spicy, pepper notes. It's not too complex, but it's very attractive and a perfect complement to red meat off the barbecue. (RP)

J. & H.A. Strub Riesling Kabinett 2002
QmP Niersteiner Brückchen, Rheinhessen $15.95 (681569)
Kabinett sometimes alerts you to a drier style, but this is an off-dry beauty that delivers rich flavours of sweet peach, apricot and citrus. The fruit is bright and clean and complemented by zesty acidity. The result is a delicious Riesling that pairs well with spicy seafood or fish dishes. (RP)

Boutari Agiorgitiko 2003
Nemea $14.95 (650689)
As the catalog says, this is an easy-drinking red. It's correctly made and has quite attractive flavours dark fruit and berries with spicy notes. Not too complex and a little rustic in texture, it's a good partner to grilled red meats and burgers. (RP)

Tiefenbrunner Pinot Grigio 2004
DOC Südtirol-Alto Adige $15.95 (954024)
A very good example of northern Italian Pinot Grigio, this delivers quite rich and concentrated flavours of white peach and apricot pit, with notes of warm spice. It has a texture of edgy crispness and finishes with a slight, clean bitter note. Sip it as an aperitif or pair it with spicy seafood, like shrimps sautéed in garlic and fresh ginger. (RP)


Dolianova "Dolia" Nuragas di Cagliari 2004
DOC Sardinia $9.95 (681742)
Nuragas is a variety indigenous to Sardinia. This expression is fairly mono-dimensional, with flavours of apple and lemony citrus, but it has good weight and balance and pairs well with pan-fried or grilled firm white fish with a squeeze of lemon. (RP)


Anselmi Capitel Foscarino 2004
IGT Veneto $22.95 (746164)
A blend of Garganega and Trebbiano, the Soave varieties, this big white delivers intense floral and spicy aromas that devolve into concentrated flavours of peach, apricot and ripe pear. It's full across the palate with good acidity, and makes a great partner with rich, creamy pasta dishes, perhaps flavoured with Gorgonzola. (RP)

Terredora Di Paolo Aglianico 2004
IGT Irpinia $15.95 (602284)
A pleasant cherry nose opens up to stewed and jammy ripe fruit flavours that are nicely balanced with pleasant acidity and acceptable tannins. Closer to rustic than elegant, it offers a nice mouthful of fruit forward wine of good balance and structure. If you are looking for something of good value, with enough verve to enhance Italian tomato-based dishes, this is the one. (VH)


Villa Franca 'Tenuta Gasperini' Rosso Castelli Romani 2002
DOC Lazio $14.95 (682684)
A nose that is dusty and sprinkled with aromas of leather and dried cranberries quickly leads into a spicy sweet core of sweet black berry fruit. This is all wrapped around a core of ripe tannins and pleasing acidity. All in all, coupled with the tangy and medium-length finish, it is very good value and would marry nicely to spaghetti bolognaise. (VH)


Taurino 'Notarpanaro' Rosso 1999
IGT Salento $22.95 (730937)
The bricky colour showcases the age of this gutsy red. The nose has stewed fruit and herbs and the unique (strange) flavour profile includes gamey and medicinal notes along with the usual berry fruit. It has a certain charm and a lovely clean finish that would be a worthy and wonderful partner to beef and lamb daube. (VH)


Foraci 'Galhasi' Nero d'Avola 2002
IGT Sicilia $13.95 (682682)
This crowd pleaser begins with a blast of dark spicy plum and licorice aromas. The palate is sweet, round and mellow with lashings of dark chocolate and black cherries. There are ripe tannins and enough zest to provide interest and structure through to the pleasant finish. I added a half star to reflect the great imbalance of price to quality ratio that tips in your favour. (VH)


Bodega de Sarria 'Señorio de Sarria-Viñedo No. 9' Cabernet Sauvignon 2002
DO Navarra $17.95 (674093)
An older wine region in N. Spain that has turned to new varietals in order to catch the New World wine wave. Cherries and cassis waft from the nose of this medium-bodied Cab and you get more of the same sweet fruit on the palate. There is great balance in the luxurious fruity finish that begs for rich cuisine. Try with cassoulet or Osso Bucco. (VH)

Rating System 

We use the following symbols when rating wines:

	Wines achieving nirvana
	Wines of excellence
	Wines well worth trying
	Wines below average, but drinkable
	Wines better avoided, unless desperate
	Represents a half star
	We both agree —a brilliant wine!
	Drink now and over the next 2 years
	Drink now and over the next 5 years
	Place in cellar

Cheers, Vic and Rod