May 11, 2016 Newsletter

Newsletter highlights include:

Susan Desjardins has just returned from Washington State and a visit to Chateau Ste. Michelle. A number of their wines are presently available in LCBO stores in the Vintages section with more slated for upcoming releases. An interesting piece on the winery, photos and a full slate of wine reviews are a click away… here.

• Exceptional-value wine  – 11 of 64 wines reviewed meet strict quality-price guidelines with the devil in the details. Ten of these follow the Vintages Release, in wines available in the LCBO on a regular basis, in Ontario wineries only and via Private order. What strict quality-price guidelines? Click here.
• 5-star Wine – no wine achieved 5 stars.
• Susan Selects – Bailly Lapierre ‘Réserve’ Crémant de Bourgogne Non-Vintage with 4½ stars @ $19.95 under Sparkling Wine; Fielding Estate Rosé 2015 with 4 stars @ $15.95 under Ontario Rosé Wine and Château des Charmes Gamay Noir 2014 with 4 stars @ $13.95 under New in the LCBO following the Vintages Release.
• Vic Picks – Tawse ‘Sketches of Niagara’ Cabernet/Merlot 2012 with 4½ stars @ $20.95 under Ontario: Red Wine; Concha Y Toro ‘Serie Riberas Gran Reserva’ Chardonnay 2013 with 4 stars @ $15.95 under Chile: White Wine; Chapel Hill ‘Parson’s Nose’ Shiraz 2013 4½ stars @ $19.95 under Australia: Red Wine; Bodegas Garciarévalo ‘tres olmos – Verdejo Classic’ 2015 with 4½ stars @ $14.25 under New in Private Order. 

Access the LCBO store nearest you with stock of any wine with an LCBO product number by clicking on the number shown in brackets in wine reviews then clicking on select stores and entering your postal code. The number of bottles available in each store near you is displayed. For Vintages Release wines, stock should be displayed the Friday before a Saturday release, updated every 24 hours, some stores post earlier. LCBO Portfolio wines (not Vintages) should always closely reflect stock in stores, updated every 24 hours. However, it’s always best to phone first.

May 14, 2016 Vintages Release

Sake

Polish up your Sake knowledge (pun intended) for the following four offerings. All the following terms/styles are found in the Sake reviewed below. The brewing process and the percentage of milling, aka polishing, done to the rice are two important factors affecting the different styles of sake. Terminology matters: ‘Ginjo’ indicates that rice was polished/milled to at least 60% of original size and distilled alcohol was added—the Takara below has a recommendation from the producer to be served warm. ‘Junmai’ means ‘pure rice’ and indicates there are no additives such as alcohol or sugar and ‘Daiginjo’ indicates rice was milled to at least 50% and it is pure rice. ‘Junmai Genshu’ indicates ‘pure rice’ and the sake was fermented to the alcohol shown on label, usually around 19%; it was not diluted with water. Most sake is diluted with water after fermentation and filtration.

Takara Sake ‘Sho Chiku Bai Premium’ Ginjo Sake
California $12.95 300 mL (960088) 15.0% alcohol
This Ginjo is smooth and mellow throughout with wisps of rose petals and anise on the nose. It bathes the palate with a light-medium bodied and über-smooth wash of licorice, lemon tang and notions of tapioca pudding. The folks at Takara suggest serving warm or at room temperature. (Vic Harradine)

• The following Junmai Daiginjo was produced by master brewer Mr. Takakura at one of Japan’s smaller breweries. They source rice from a highly respected farmer who supplies them with top quality Yamada Nishiki rice which is considered the best for making sake. It was milled to 50% for the following Sake. The more it’s milled the more starch available for the brewing process.

Higashiyama Shuzo ‘Konteki Pearls of Simplicity’ Junmai Daiginjo Sake
Kyoto Prefecture, Japan $54.95 720 mL (273367) 15.5% alcohol
Mellow aromas of nutty notes, honeydew melon and sweet vanilla introduce a spirited wash of Turkish delight confectionary, red licorice and poached pear. Overall this is smooth and mellow with good flavour and balance. (Vic Harradine)

• Urban legend has it the following style of sake was first brewed for Formula Nippon race-car enthusiasts and drivers to spray Japanese sparkling Sake in celebration rather than French Champagne. It is, indeed, fermented in the traditional (Champagne) method with the 2nd fermentation occurring in the bottle you purchase. The producer, Okunomatsu, suggests you serve chilled, we concur, especially if drinking rather than spraying.

Okunomatsu ‘Sparkling’ Junmai Daiginjo Sake
Fukushima Prefecture, Japan $13.95 290 mL (228973) 11.4% alcohol
This provides good structure and persistent flavour with balance and flair. Delicate aromas of sweet spice and lemon pie filling open this spritzy/bubbly gem. It’s quite fresh and crisp on the palate with citrus and apple melding with vanilla and hints of crème brûlée. (Vic Harradine)

Tenzan ‘Jizake’ Junmai Genshu Sake
Saga Prefecture, Kyushu, Japan $35.95 720 mL (741637) 19.1% alcohol
This is high alcohol, full bodied and generously textured with plenty of charm. Wrapped in bamboo-leaf, it opens with spirited aromas of orange blossom and mango before spilling over the palate with gusto—ripe pear, sweet vanilla and rice pudding flavour—and finishing with a surge of lemony tang. (Vic Harradine)

Sparkling Wine

Roederer Estate ‘Sparkling Brut’ Non-Vintage
Anderson Valley, Mendocino, California $39.95 (294181) 12.0% alcohol
There’s baking brioche and nutty notes on the nose before a solid profusion of bubbles and flavours are unleashed on the palate. The yeasty, mineral bits are predominant entwined with pear and apple on the mid palate. It’s mid weight with good mouth feel and crisp, lemony finish and aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)

Bailly Lapierre ‘Réserve’ Crémant de Bourgogne Non-Vintage

AOC Crémant de Bourgogne $19.95 (991562) 12.0% alcohol 

An almost transparent straw colour, this lovely sparkler has delicate aromas of pear, green apple and brioche. It’s quite rich and fruity on the palate—tree fruit in particular with a citrus note—and the mousse is soft and creamy. This is finely balanced, well-crafted and quite flavourful. An underlying minerality and fresh fruity acidity persist on the finish. This is good value. (Susan Desjardins)

Okanagan Valley: White Wine

 
Gehringer Brothers ‘Classic’ Riesling 2014
VQA Okanagan Valley $18.95 (171488) 13.3% alcohol
This is fruit filled on the palate, crisp and refreshing on the finish… how good is that. Floral notes mingle with orchard fruit and spice aromas on the nose of this dry Riesling. There’s an impressive explosion of nectarine and apricot flavour with hints of tropical fruit on the palate persisting through the dry, lip-smacking, citrus finish. An aperitif that’ll get gastric juices flowing, it also pairs well with pan-seared fish and grilled sea food. (Vic Harradine)

Ontario: Red Wine

 
Domaine Queylus ‘Tradition’ Pinot Noir 2012
VQA Niagara Peninsula $29.95 (392738) 13.5% alcohol
This reveals age with an orange-hued, bricky appearance in the glass, although fully flavoured, rich and luscious on the palate. It’s complex, medium bodied and nicely textured with impressive flavours of ripe red cherry, black berry and oodles of mixed spice and charisma. The lengthy, dry, lip-smacking finish is icing on the cake. It’s good to go now on its own or with grilled smoked duck breasts over a green salad dressed with mango chutney dressing. (Vic Harradine)

 
Ridgepoint Pinot Noir 2010
VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara Peninsula $15.00 (89003) 13.5% alcohol
This good-value, drink-me-now Pinot dishes up mushroom and spice aromas entwined with black plum and black currant jelly. It’s medium weight with decent texture and a lively, racy rush of flavour with tang-infused cranberry and pie cherry to the fore. The dry, crisp finish is looking for a dance partner, give pasta in tomato sauce a fling. (Vic Harradine)

 
Tawse ‘Sketches of Niagara’ Cabernet/Merlot 2012
VQA Niagara Peninsula $20.95 (130252) 13.0% alcohol
This shows complexity, balance and plenty of style with the price-quality balance tipped well in your favour. Charred toast, dark cherry/berry fruit and piquant spice aromas set the table for a smorgasbord of flavour. Medium-full bodied and fully textured, a balanced river of black briary berry and dark Bing cherry adorned with mocha and tangy acidity flow endlessly over the palate and lengthy aftertaste. Pour with grilled striploin. (Vic Harradine)

Ontario: Rosé Wine

 
Fielding Estate Rosé 2015

VQA Niagara Peninsula $15.95 (53421) 12.3% alcohol 

This attractive, pale Rosé—primarily Gamay and Cabernet Franc—offers a perfumed, expressive nose of red berry and crunchy apple with a whiff of mineral and citrus. It’s off dry, light-medium bodied and underpinned with a nice dose of acidity offsetting ripe sweet fruit. The palate rings true replaying strawberry and cranberry tinged with apple skin and citrus pith. It finishes with a cleansing touch of pungency and pairs well with an arugula-based salad with duck confit. (Susan Desjardins)

California: White Wine

Stags’ Leap Winery Chardonnay 2014
Napa Valley $34.95 (655381) 14.1% alcohol
Involved aromas of mixed spice, green apple, melon and pear introduce this medium-full bodied, nicely textured Napa Chardonnay. Flavours of Granny Smith apple, ripe pear and white peach garnished by nutty and toasty notes coat the palate. It finishes clean and crisp with lemon curd and mouth-watering acidity. Pour on its own or alongside roast chicken or crown roast of pork. (Vic Harradine)

California: Red Wine

Conundrum Red 2013
California $24.95 (294298) 14.2% alcohol
Ink-black, almost opaque in the glass, this sweet, red blend is full bodied, well textured, jammy and very fruit forward. Baking spice, black cherry and black currant aromas replay on the palate as flavours as black currant jam, black plum compote and cherry tart robed in mixed spice and herbs. Pour alongside grilled, smoked back ribs swabbed in spicy barbecue sauce. (Vic Harradine)

First Press Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 

Napa Valley $22.95 (188110) 14.5% alcohol 

Deep ruby, this dry, full-bodied Cabernet offers classic aromas of cassis, cedar, spice and herbs. The structure is subtle, balancing the ripe black fruit, while a touch of dark chocolate and hints of smoke and toast add complexity. Very tasty and flavourful, this is an appealing, approachable wine. (Susan Desjardins)

J. Lohr ‘Seven Oaks’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2013

Paso Robles $14.95 375 mL (313817) 13.5% alcohol

This is little brother to the 750 mL Vintages Essentials red. The fruit—75% Cab Sauv, 7% Petite Sirah, 7% Merlot, 4% Petit Verdot,1% Cab Franc, 3% other red—spent 12 months aging in primarily toasted-head, American oak barrel. Oodles of sweet, dark flavours coat the palate with vanilla and spice infusing black currant and juicy black cherry. It’s fruit forward and hedonistic with enough acidity and soft tannin to hold it together, balanced and beautiful. (Vic Harradine)

La Crema Pinot Noir 2013

Los Carneros $34.95 (58024) 14.5% alcohol

Hand-picked fruit was cold soaked five days - 70% whole berry, then fermented in open-top tanks with gentle cap push downs. Racked into French oak barrel—1/3 new—it was aged 9 months then blended and bottled. Dark berry fruit, earthy notes, mint and baking spice aromas set the stage for a medium-plus bodied river of nicely textured flavour—mulberry and black cherry interwoven with roasted savory herbs and mocha. It finishes balanced and beautiful. (Vic Harradine)

William Hill Cabernet Sauvignon 2012

Napa Valley $44.95 (212951) 14.8% alcohol

The opaque purple hue signals depth and concentration in this Cabernet Sauvignon enhanced by touches of Merlot and Syrah. There’s an enticing nose of cinnamon spice and lavender, sun-ripened black fruit and licorice, vanilla and a whiff of cedar. Dry and full bodied with a defined structure, the perceptible tannin and clean acidity frame a core of dense cassis, black berry and cherry. The spice and toasty barrel notes add depth and balance to the ripe fruit and linger on the finish as a notion of chocolate-coated espresso bean. This is a mouth-watering, deftly crafted red that’ll cellar long term or decant and enjoy now with rare roast beef in peppercorn crust. (Susan Desjardins)

Argentina: Red Wine

• The following Fabre Montmayou Malbec fruit was hand harvested then cold soaked for five days before fermentation. It was pumped over four times a day during fermentation and spent a further 25 days macerating on skins before aging 12 months in French oak barrel.

Fabre Montmayou ‘Gran Reserva’ Malbec 2012
Mendoza $24.95 (279802) 15.0% alcohol
This is rich and luscious with copious amounts of dark fruit, great balance and complexity. Aromas and flavours of dark berry fruit, black cherry and currants abound. It’s medium-full bodied with creamy smooth mouth feel and lingering, balanced and dry aftertaste laced with ripe fruit, good acidity and ripe tannin. Aerate/decant three hours before serving. (Vic Harradine)

Chile: White Wine

Concha Y Toro ‘Serie Riberas Gran Reserva’ Chardonnay 2013
Colchagua Valley $16.95 (287995) 14.0% alcohol
This is good value, deftly balanced, fruit filled and quite delicious. Tropical fruit and floral aromas herald a boatload of flavour on the palate with baking spice, red apple and a salad bowl of tropical fruit giving way to tang-laden citrus on the clean, refreshing finish and aftertaste. Pour with seasoned, grilled chicken thighs or breaded and pan-seared pork cutlets. (Vic Harradine)

Chile: Red Wine

San Pedro ‘1865 Single Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2013
Maipo Valley $19.95 (37911) 14.5% alcohol
Wood smoke and toasty aromas billow from this impressive Chilean Cab. The price-quality ratio is skewed well in your favour; pick up a few. Rich black berry fruit and sweet, black plum adorned with earthy notes and mint interlace with tangy acidity. It’s mid-plus weight with good mouthfeel and lingering aftertaste of black currant and pie cherry, dry and mouthwatering. Pour with smoked grilled chicken with barbecue sauce. (Vic Harradine)

New Zealand: White Wine

3 Stones ‘Premium Selection’ Pinot Gris 2015
Marlborough, South Island $16.95 (362053) 13.0% alcohol
Honeyed pit fruit, lemongrass and floral aromas abound on the nose of this medium-bodied, nicely textured Gris. Grilled pineapple and yellow peach flavours are nicely balanced with a surge of lemon tang and mineral notes that bathe the palate infusing the crisp, clean, refreshing finish. Pour this value-packed gem alongside breaded, pan-fried calamari rings. (Vic Harradine)

Australia: Red Wine

Chapel Hill ‘Parson’s Nose’ Shiraz 2013
McLaren Vale, South Australia $19.95 (339705) 14.5% alcohol
In my Protestant home that part of the turkey was the Pope’s nose, but you get the idea. Inky-black hued in the glass, lifted aromas of grilled herbs, mixed spice and cedar abound. This is beautiful, balanced, luscious and great value with its creamy smooth river of full-bodied flavour—red and dark berry fruit robed in baking spice, black licorice and dark bittersweet chocolate. The finish lingers with ripe, soft tannin. Aerate/decant two hours pouring with grilled steak, lamb or gourmet sausage. (Vic Harradine)

• The following wine was named ‘The Boxer’ as the first person to taste it exclaimed, ‘It’s a knockout’. Mollydooker is Aussie slang for left handed. Sharp-eyed folks may pick up that the boxer on the label was drawn with two left hands.

Mollydooker ‘The Boxer’ Shiraz 2014
South Australia $33.95 (246595) 16.0% alcohol
This is dense and intense, fully fruited, full bodied and decidedly brawny. It roars from the glass with aromas of mixed black berry fruit, spice and black licorice and coats the palate a broad swath of concentrated fruit and flavour—black currant and dark Bing cherry garnished with espresso roast, anise and sweet vanilla. 100% Shiraz fruit was sustainably grown, barrel fermented and aged in 100% American oak barrel, 32% new/68% one-year-old. Pour with grilled ribs mopped in spicy barbecue sauce. (Vic Harradine)

Zonte’s Footstep ‘Lake Doctor’ Shiraz 2013
Langhorne Creek, South Australia $17.95 (72975) 14.5% alcohol
This is fully fruited Aussie Shiraz with gobs of flavour and huge crowd appeal. Campfire smoke and sandalwood on the nose, this coats the palate with a medium-plus weight, beautifully textured wash of black plum compote and black raspberry jam entwined with sweet vanilla and baking spice. Pour with smoked, grilled chicken with a spicy sauce. (Vic Harradine)

New Zealand: Red Wine

Kim Crawford ‘Small Parcels Rise & Shine’ Pinot Noir 2013
Central Otago, South Island $29.95 (35337) 13.5% alcohol
Delicate aromas of spice and floral notes open this NZ Pinot. It opens with racy flavours of red currant and pie cherry robed in roasted savory herbs and spice bathing the palate and making their way to the mid-length finish where wisps of soft tannin add structure and interest. A lovely food wine, it’s good to go now alongside prawn and chorizo paella. (Vic Harradine)

Thornbury Pinot Noir 2014
Central Otago, South Island $24.95 (329706) 13.5% alcohol
Savory spice and toasty notes on the nose, this dishes up excellent tang and ripe fruit—red cherry and pomegranate mingling with beetroot and piquant spice bathing the palate infusing the dry lip-smacking finish. There’s perceptible tannin lurking about; aerate/decant for three hours before pouring. (Vic Harradine)

France: White Wine

Roland Lavantureux Chablis 2014
AOC Chablis $27.95 (328807) 12.5% alcohol
Delicate aromas of honeysuckle and orchard fruit show the way to a nervy, sleek wash of pear, crisp green apple and white grapefruit that’s straightforward and uncomplicated. It’s light on its feet with a crisp clean citrus tang on the mid-length aftertaste. Pour with scallop ceviche. (Vic Harradine)

Joseph Mellot ‘La Chatellenie’ Sancerre 2014
AOC Sancerre $31.95 (525154) 12.5% alcohol
One of the top white wines tasted in this release, it flinty/mineral notes along with citrus and floral aromas on the nose. It streaks across the palate with a laser-like stream of lemon zest, lime juice and grapefruit pith. There’s scintillating tang on the crisp, lip-smacking finish that begs for freshly shucked oysters or sashimi. (Vic Harradine)

France: Red Wine

• The following Bordeaux red blend—50% Merlot/45% Cabernet Sauvignon/5% Petit Verdot—was de-stemmed and cold soaked two or three days before fermentation, left on skins two to three weeks and aged in new oak barrel 12 to 18 months. There’s always some risk, but at this price it’s a low-risk option for tucking away until 2019 before popping corks and being handsomely rewarded for your time.

Château de Panigon 2010
AOC Médoc, Cru Bourgeois $19.95 (348250) 14.0% alcohol
Exotic spice, cedar and mixed field berry fruit aromas herald a medium-full bodied rush of red and black currant with juicy black cherry, baking spice and racy tang coating the palate infusing the lingering aftertaste of this cellar dweller. All these flavours remain in the firm grip of still-evolving tannin and the effect of a healthy dollop of new oak. Cellar until 2019 to reap the rewards of patience. (Vic Harradine)

Gérard Bertrand Syrah/Grenache 2013
AOP Languedoc $16.95 (413237) 13.5% alcohol
This is crowd friendly and medium-plus bodied with a lingering, balanced finish and aftertaste. Aromas of red berry fruit and piquant spice billow from this straightforward Syrah/Grenache red blend. A silky-smooth stream of ripe dark berry and blueberry joined by roasted herbs and spice glide over the palate. Pour with burgers, steak or whatever you grill on the Weber. (Vic Harradine)

Saint-Roch ‘Vieilles Vignes’ Syrah/Grenache 2013
AOP Côtes du Rousillon $16.95 (195107) 14.0% alcohol
A highly aromatic nose reveals peppery spice, ripe berry fruit and toasty notes. The rich, luscious river of bramble berry jam and black plum compote garnished with roasted herbs is underpinned by still-evolving tannin. This is medium-plus weight with good mouth feel and a long, dry finish laced with pie cherry bite and tang. A three-hour aeration/decant will ameliorate the tannin, as will another year in bottle. (Vic Harradine)

Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2013

AOC Châteauneuf-du-Pape $89.95 (711317) 14.5% alcohol

This is one of France’s best red wines; it’s from 50-year-old vines of organically grown fruit at the far north of this famous appellation. Quiet aromas of smoke, dark toast and grilled herbs mingle with wisps of berry fruit on the nose. A tangy, spirited, complex swath of red currant and bramble berry interweave with black licorice, mixed spice and kirsch liqueur on the palate. This is firm and taut with still-evolving tannin after spending 12 months in large oak foudres. It’s medium-full bodied with generous mouth feel and lengthy aftertaste. There’s depth and plenty of promise—drink 2018-2028. (Vic Harradine)

• The following wine is from AOC Gigondas, a southern Rhône Valley wine region just east of its more famous neighbour, Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Like most of the southern Rhône, Grenache is the predominant grape, although in Gigondas a maximum of 80% Grenache is allowed in any one wine. Gigondas produces only red and Rosé wine—the best wines from here are often on par with premium reds from Châteauneuf-du-Pape at considerably less cost.

Pierre Amadieu Romane-Machotte Gigondas 2013
AOC Gigondas $24.95 (17400) 14.5% alcohol
This Grenache/Syrah blend is firm, fully fruited with good acidity, deft balance and long, dry finish. Dark cherry/berry aromas and espresso roast unleash a full-bodied, fully textured gusher of red and black cherry and cassis robed in savory spice and herbs with wisps of soft, supple tannin. Aerate/decant for two hours before pouring with grilled lamb. (Vic Harradine)

France: Rosé Wine

Mas des Bressades ‘Cuvée Tradition’ Rosé 2015
AOP Costières de Nîmes $17.95 (701094) 13.5% alcohol
This is an affordable Rosé with endless cuisine options—charcuterie, a mixed deli platter or soft cheese like Brie de Meaux or Camembert. Strawberry, mixed spice and a hint of sweet red cherry aromas on the nose, these are replayed along with rhubarb pie and peach skin on the finish and aftertaste. Medium weight with good texture, the finish is quite clean and refreshing. (Vic Harradine)

Italy: White Wine

Tiefenbrunner Pinot Grigio 2015
DOC Südtirol-Alto Adige $22.95 (954024) 13.5% alcohol
Certainly superior to many Pinot Gris or Pinot Grigio, this dishes up a nicely paced wine with persistent flavour and racy acidity that’s balanced throughout. Aromas of nutty, floral notes provide segue for ripe rich flavours of red apple, ripe pear and honeydew melon robed in spice and lemony tang coating the palate, infusing the clean crisp finish. Pair with pasta Alfredo. (Vic Harradine)

Italy: Red Wine

Amastuola Centosassi Primitivo 2011
IGP Puglia $23.95 (420661) 15.5% alcohol
If you’re seeking rich, ripe and jammy, here’s the mother lode. Caramel, fig, raisin and spice on the nose, this surges over the palate with a viscous river of butterscotch-infused fig newton with black berry jam and enough red berry acidity to provide some sense of balance. This is quite full bodied with a dense, lingering finish and aftertaste displaying a fine-grained tannin underpinning. Pour with grilled ribs and spicy barbecue sauce.

San Leonino Chianti Classico 2012
DOCG Chianti Classico $19.95 (412387) 13.5% alcohol
You won’t find too many Chianti Classico at this attractive price. Floral notes meld with cherry/berry aromas on the nose of this lighter-styled, racy Sangiovese. Red currant and cranberry streak over the palate, sleek and tang-laden. It finishes in a blaze with wisps of passion fruit on the aftertaste. Pour with lasagna or pastitsio. (Vic Harradine)

• The following Amarone is a blend of 70% Corvina/20% Rondinella/10% Croatina and Oseleta, aged 36 months in new barrique. It’s drinking well now and will until +2022.  

Latium Morini ‘Campo Leòn’ Amarone Della Valpolicella 2010
DOC Amarone Della Valpolicella $47.95 (334300) 16.0% alcohol
This is a full-bodied, nicely textured Amarone with plenty of persistency of fruit and gusto. Fig, raisin and cedar aromas set the table for a smorgasbord of flavour with spice cake, currants and black plum compote interweaving with wisps of fig. There’s plenty of red and black currant on the finish with black licorice, spicy oak and sweet vanilla on the aftertaste. Dare I say… yummy? (Vic Harradine)

Lupo Nero Ripasso Valpolicella Classico-Superiore 2013
DOC Valpolicella Classico-Superiore $19.95 (410654) 13.5% alcohol
This is tangy and racy throughout with pasta in tomato sauce, lasagna or pasta puttanesca wonderful cuisine partners. Aromas of dark cherry, mocha and spice intro a sleek line of racy red currant and sour cherry streaking laser-like across the palate full of nerve and verve. The tang-laden finish is dry and lip-smacking. (Vic Harradine)

Upstream in winecurrent

Vintages Release: June 11, 2016

 
Château des Charmes Pinot Noir ‘Old Vines’ 2011
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $18.95 (57349) 13.0% alcohol
Earthy and red berry aromas precede a dry, tang-laden wash of dark berry and red currant robed in spice and still-evolving tannin. It’s mid weight with good texture and a drying finish. After a two-hour aeration/decant pour alongside a baked red pepper filled with tomato, mushrooms, rice and grilled, chopped sirloin steak. (Vic Harradine)

Vintages Release: June 25, 2016 (2013 Vintage available in select stores)

Chateau Ste. Michelle 'Columbia Valley' Chardonnay 2014
Columbia Valley $20.95 (232439) 14.0% alcohol
Blending toasted nut and buttered popcorn with ripe orchard fruit and citrus, this is a nicely balanced mid-weight white. Dry, with a fresh yet creamy texture, the flavours of pear and Honey Crisp apple mingle with notes of grilled toast and hints of vanilla and spice. Round through the finish, it shows good balance, as well as good length on the clean finish. (Susan Desjardins)

Vintages Release: July 23, 2016

Vignoble Berne ‘Terres de Berne’ Rosé 2015
AOP Côtes de Provence, France $17.95
This Cinsault/Grenache blend hails from Provence, the beating heart of southern France. It delivers a delicate nose of strawberry and spice with a classic ‘Oeil de Perdrix’ hue in the glass. This is mid weight and well textured with flavours of red currant, cherry and ruby red grapefruit. It finishes crisp, clean and lip-smacking good. Give it a go with roast chicken, pan-seared salmon or mixed deli platter. (Vic Harradine)

Vintages Release: August 20, 2016

Chateau Ste. Michelle 'Columbia Valley' Syrah' 2013
Columbia Valley $20.95 (949651) 13.5% alcohol
Co-fermented with a touch of Viognier, bursting with aromas of blackberry, blueberry pie and licorice, this crowd-pleaser tickles the senses with its floral nuances and lifted notes of exotic spice and cracked pepper. Dry, mid-full weight, the palate is awash with flavours of cassis jam and black raspberry coulis underlaid with supple tannins, a mineral quality and fine acidity. The finish is long and dry with a pleasing toasty quality. Serve with herbed grilled leg of lamb or duck confit. (Susan Desjardins)

Vintages Release: November 12, 2016 (2012 Vintage available in select stores)

Chateau Ste. Michelle 'Indian Wells' Cabernet Sauvignon 2013
Columbia Valley $25.95 (55764) 14.5% alcohol
Another winner, as was the 2012, this inky wine offers lovely spiced floral notes overlaid on dried lavender, cassis, cedar, spice and vanilla. There's terrific balance here, great depth of jammy dark fruit—blackberry and cassis to the fore—with complexity coming through the notes of pepper and spice, a touch of Syrah was blended in, dark chocolate-coated coffee bean and an earthy quality. This appealing and approachable red delivers a velvety finish that subtly expresses its supple, well-defined structure. Pick up a few bottles to enjoy with friends. (Susan Desjardins)

Vintages Release: TBA 2016

Chateau Ste. Michelle 'Columbia Valley' Merlot 2013
Columbia Valley $TBA 13.5% alcohol
A very approachable wine, this offers lush black fruit aromas—black plum, cherry and berry—garnished with notes of spice and pepper (Syrah accents the Merlot) and grilled peppers. Dry and medium-full bodied, rich, ripe dark fruit wraps around a core of supple tannins, toasty oaky notes expanding on the palate. With a good underlying structure, a velvety texture balanced by a nice level of freshness, this is a tasty, easy-going fruit-forward wine you'll enjoy with a range of grilled meats. (Susan Desjardins)

Vintages Release: December 2016

 
Chateau Ste. Michelle 'Columbia Valley' Cabernet Sauvignon 2014
Columbia Valley $19.95 (269357) 13.5% alcohol
Opaque ruby, this sings of cassis and black raspberry, offering earthy notes, dried herbs and sweet vanilla. Dry, full bodied, the concentrated ripe fruit is underpinned with firm yet fine-grained tannins, while the earthy quality replays, notes of chocolate presenting through the lasting, dry finish. An approachable Cabernet, this offers good value and is a fine match for grilled ribeye steak. (Susan Desjardins)

New in LCBO Portfolio

 
Château des Charmes Gamay Noir 2014
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $13.95 (57349) 12.7% alcohol
Quite aromatic, this violet-hued Gamay tickles the nose with a touch of spice, red currant and berry with hints of beet and tomato leaf. Dry, on the light side of medium bodied, the fresh juicy texture and lively acidity frame flavours of tangy red berries and cherry with savory notes of spice, capsicum and earth. Offering a mouth-cleansing, dry finish, it’s versatile, easy-going and pours well with BBQ chicken, salmon or Provençal salad with duck. (Susan Desjardins)

Montes ‘Twins’ Malbec/Cabernet Sauvignon 2013
DO Colchagua Valley, Chile $12.95 14.0% alcohol
Here’s a food-friendly, crowd-pleasing blend just in time for summer/fall grilling—pairs well with burger, steak, gourmet sausage. Aromas of black currant and spice roll off this nicely textured red. It bathes the palate with a spicy river of red fruit—cherry, currant and raspberry. There’s good tang and acidity on the balanced finish. (Vic Harradine)

Honoro Vera Garnacha 2014
DO Catalayud, Spain $12.95 14.5% alcohol
This Garnacha, aka Grenache, from sunny Spain, dishes up a sumptuous wash of ripe, juicy fruit—black and red currant—garnished with piquant spice, savory herbs and oodles of delectable tang. Pours well on its own and excels with pasta in tomato sauce, meat-lovers pizza or spicy ribs. Terrific value here. (Vic Harradine)

New in Ontario Wineries

 
Closson Chase ‘K. J. Watson Vineyard’ Pinot Gris 2015
VQA Four Mile Creek $21.95 12.0% alcohol
This is a lovely Gris, stylish and flavourful with persistent purity of fruit and balanced on a pin. Honeycomb, peach and tropical fruit aromas announce a medium-weight, heavenly textured stream of lemon-lime and apple garnished with saline/flint/mineral notes and apple skin. It’s charming with a lengthy finish and lovely to sip—divine paired with fish and seafood and very good value. (Vic Harradine)

 
Closson Chase ‘The Brock’ Chardonnay 2014
VQA Niagara River $22.95 13.5% alcohol
This is well balanced with persistent fruit flavour, 18 months of well-integrated oak and a clean, crisp finish and aftertaste. Aromas of binned apple and wisps of caramel provide segue for a medium-bodied, nicely textured wash of ripe apple, baking spice, sweet vanilla and lemony tang bathing the palate infusing the crisp, refreshing finish. (Vic Harradine)

 
Closson Chase ‘Vineyard’ Chardonnay 2014
VQA Prince Edward County $28.95 12.5% alcohol
Flinty/matchstick/mineral notes and wisps of ripe apple aromas dominate the nose of this light-medium bodied Chardonnay. Hand-harvested estate fruit saw 16 months of French oak, only 8% new. Delicate/restrained flavours of apple and pear on the palate meld with a surge of racy lemon on the tang-laden finish. (Vic Harradine)

 
Closson Chase ‘K. J. Watson Vineyard’ Pinot Noir 2014
VQA Niagara River $34.95 12.5% alcohol
A translucent-pink hue in the glass, ephemeral flavours are delicate throughout. Aromas of herbs, beetroot and cherry clafoutie precede a gentle, light-on-its-feet wash of savory herbs, pie cherry and passion fruit bathing the palate and mid-length finish. Hand-harvested fruit was aged 12 months in seasoned oak barrel where it underwent malolactic conversion. It’s a perfect pairing with smoked/grilled duck breasts. (Vic Harradine)

Private Order


• Order the following wine by the case for home, restaurant or office delivery in Ontario along with those published in the previous newsletters from Nokhrin Wines or Email This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it., if in the GTA phone 416 704-8617.

Barramundi Chardonnay 2015
Australia $11.95 13.5% alcohol
This is bottled summer—carefree days with party-time evenings; it’s smooth as silk, no worries, mate. Ripe fruit aromas of pineapple, pear and floral notes abound in this nicely textured Chardonnay. It bathes the palate from twist top to last drop with a seamless, lengthy stream of ripe nectarine and spiced green apple. (Vic Harradine)

Barramundi Chardonnay/Viognier 2015
Australia $11.95 13.5% alcohol
Aromas of honeycomb and exotic incense open this nicely balanced Aussie gem. It glides over the palate with complexity and flavours of grapefruit, peach and yellow plum along with wisps of spice and peach skin. It’s medium weight with good mouth feel and punches well above the price. It finishes crisp, clean, lip-smacking good. (Vic Harradine)

Barramundi Shiraz 2014
Australia $11.95 14.5% alcohol
This crowd-pleasing red is nicely balanced, full of fruit and bursting with spice—it’s liquid Australia, fire up the barbecue. Aromas of mixed spice and ripe black berry leap from the glass. The spirited wash of ripe dark cherry and dark berry fruit flow over the palate infusing the lengthy, balanced, dry finish. (Vic Harradine)

Barramundi Shiraz/Petit Verdot 2014
Australia $11.95 14.0% alcohol
Pour this with burgers, steak, ribs or lamb that’s grilled on the barbie. It’s medium bodied and creamy smooth with excellent tang on the finish and aftertaste. The ripe luscious fruit showcases this warm-climate red blend. Dark cherry/berry fruit, earthy notes and spice aromas introduce a luscious river of black currant and Bing cherry joined by red berry tang. What’s not to like? (Vic Harradine)

• Order the following wines—plus those in previous newsletters—by the case for home, restaurant or office delivery in Ontario from VinoLuna wine agency. Contact via website, VinoLuna, by Email This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it., or in the GTA phone 416 587-6691.

• The following Vintage Champagne from the House of Gruet is unusual in that it has ‘Chardonnay’ on the front label rather than the more common, ‘Blanc de Blancs’, taken literally as ‘white of whites’. The three major grapes of Champagne are Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay with only the latter a white grape. However, there are two other minor white grapes allowed, Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris. This wine is 100% Chardonnay, hence ‘Chardonnay’ makes great sense on the label.

Gruet Champagne Chardonnay Brut 2009
AOC Champagne, France $46.50 12.0% alcohol
A lifted bouquet of crisp green apple, yeasty notes and citrus leads to sleek and tang-laden stream of lemon-lime zest and tart green apple riding a profusion of fine-bead bubbles of frothy mousse. It’s persistent throughout with purity of fruit and lip-smacking acidity. Serve as an aperitif with freshly shucked oysters or pan-seared scallops. (Vic Harradine)

Gruet ‘Selection’ Champagne Brut Non-Vintage
AOC Champagne, France $39.75 12.0% alcohol
A Pinot Noir/Pinot Meunier/Chardonnay blend this delivers energetic mousse with crisp, refreshing flavour and a delightfully lively aftertaste. Floral and orchard fruit aromas herald a tangy river of lemon curd and orange zest tingling the palate persisting through the clean, racy finish and lengthy, lip-smacking aftertaste. Pour with fish, seafood or lemon chicken. (Vic Harradine)

• The following Chateau Puyanché is from Francs Côtes de Bordeaux, located a bit east of St. Émilion and similarly Merlot predominant. It holds the distinction of being the smallest appellation in Bordeaux with only a few dozen active wineries. This particular wine is a bit of an anomaly as it saw no oak allowing the freshness of the pure fruit flavour to be showcased.

Chateau Puyanché 2012
AOC Francs Côtes de Bordeaux, France $15.60 13.5% alcohol
You won’t taste many four-year-old Bordeaux smoother than this and it’s über-creamy on the palate, balanced and fruity. This is an 80% Merlot/20% Cabernet Franc red blend fermented and aged in stainless tank rather than oak barrel. Aromas of spice, red and dark berry fruit seamlessly replay as palate flavours persisting through the dry, sweet-and-tang balanced finish. (Vic Harradine)

Chateau Godard Bellevue ‘Le Cerf’ 2012
AOC Francs Côtes de Bordeaux, France $40.90 13.5% alcohol
This 65% Merlot/20% Cabernet Franc/15% Cabernet Franc red blend was aged 12 months in French oak barrique. Mixed spice, herbs and tobacco aromas lead the way to a fruity wash of red cherry joined by an underpinning of still-evolving tannin and savory herbs on the lengthy finish. (Vic Harradine)

Case Bianche ‘Vigna del Cuc’ Prosecco Superiore Brut 2015
DOCG Conegliano Valdobbiadene, Italy $17.15 11.5% alcohol
This is dry, medium bodied sparkling wine with good mouth feel and plenty of charm and grace. Lovely honey and floral notes introduce a flavoured mouthful of pear, peach and apple with a crisp finish that’s nicely balanced with lemony tang. It certainly punches well above the price making it a wonderful welcoming wine to serve friends or guests. (Vic Harradine)

Bodegas Garciarévalo ‘tres olmos – Verdejo Classic’ 2015
DO Rueda, Spain $14.25 13.0% alcohol
Lifted aromas of honey and pit fruit—peach and yellow plum—leap from the glass. It coats the palate with gusto, an incredibly viscous texture—spent winter on its lees—and a fountain of flavour—ripe pear, mixed spice, apple pie and mineral notes. Medium weight with depth and structure, this was cold soaked before fermentation—unique and sublime, certainly worthy of praise. (Vic Harradine)

Bodegas Garciarévalo ‘tres olmos – Verdejo Lias’ 2015
DO Rueda, Spain $14.25 13.0% alcohol
Delicate aromas of floral and honey notes reveal a lively wash of lemon curd, minerality and lime cordial wending its way over the palate replaying on the balanced, crisp and refreshing finish. This is light-medium bodied with creamy mouth feel—it was aged on its lees and stirred over winter—with racy tang throughout. (Vic Harradine)

Cheers, Vic and Susan