March 15, 2016 Newsletter

Heads up!

The next newsletter, featuring the April 2, 2016 Release will be published AFTER the Release date. The Vintages Release tasting in Ottawa will not be held until April 5 and 6. We’ll publish a few days after that. Winecurrent offers apologies for any inconvenience.

Newsletter highlights include:

• Exceptional-value wine  – 5 of 55 wines reviewed meet the strict quality-price guidelines; all are highly recommended and all are easily identified throughout the newsletter with prices starting from $13.95. What strict guidelines? Click here.
• 5-star Wine – 3 wines rang the 5-star bell – Giuseppe Quintarelli Rosso Ca’ Del Merlo 2007 @ $99.95 and Ornellaia 2012 @ $199.95 both under Feature: Italy: Fielding Estate ‘Chosen Few’ 2012 @ $59.95 under New in Ontario Wineries.
• Susan Selects – Featherstone ‘Joy’ Premium Cuvée Rosé 2014 with 4½ stars @ $29.95 under Sparkling Wine; Primus ‘The Blend’ 2013 with 4½ stars @ $19.95 under Chile: Red Wine; Vinum Africa Chenin Blanc 2013 with 4 stars @ $15.95 under South Africa: White Wine; Fielding Estate Rosé 2015 with 4 stars @ $15.95 under New in LCBO Portfolio; Fielding Estate ‘Chosen Few’ 2012 with 5 stars @ $59.95 under New in Ontario Wineries.
• Vic Picks – Culmina ‘Decora’ Riesling 2014 with 4½ stars @ $24.95 under Okanagan Valley: White Wine; Ad Lib ‘Hen & Chicken’ Chardonnay 2014 with 4½ stars @ $19.95 under Australia: White Wine; Bodegas Valdelacierva Crianza 2011 with 4½ stars @ $19.95 under New in Vintages; La Torre ‘La Villa’ Chianti Colli Senesi ‘Riserva’ 2013 with 4½ stars @ $19.95 under New in Private Order.

Access the LCBO store nearest you with stock of any wine with an LCBO product number by clicking on the number shown in brackets in wine reviews then clicking on select stores and entering your postal code. The number of bottles available in each store near you is displayed. For Vintages Release wines, stock should be displayed the Friday before a Saturday release, updated every 24 hours, some stores post earlier. LCBO Portfolio (not Vintages) wines, should closely reflect stock in stores, updated every 24 hours. However, it’s always best to phone first.

Vintages Release: March 19, 2016

Feature: Italy – Classics and Favourites

• The late, great, Giuseppe Quintarelli, doyen of the Veneto, was a perfectionist in all his ways for over six decades; he crafted some of the world’s finest, most sought-after wines. His family carries on using his patient, perfectionist manner. In producing the following, single-vineyard fruit was pressed immediately after harvest followed by short maceration as the first wild-yeast fermentation began. The wine rested until February when, in Ripasso tradition, it was racked onto lees of Amarone sparking a second fermentation followed by seven years aging in large Slavonian oak barrels.

Giuseppe Quintarelli Rosso Ca’ Del Merlo 2007
IGT Veneto $99.95 (958595) 15.0% alcohol
This has depth, elegance and is indescribably delicious. The involved nose offers aromas of baking spice, cedar and dark berry fruit. Ripe black cherry, black currant and spice cake swirl over the palate medium-plus bodied with creamy-smooth mouth feel interlaced with espresso roast, savory herbs and dark bittersweet chocolate. The stunning finish is monumentally long. (Vic Harradine)

• The following 2012 Ornellaia is the flagship wine of this estate—the first vintage produced was 1985. This Super Tuscan, hand-harvested, red blend of 57% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc, 7% Petit Verdot underwent fermentation and a long maceration in stainless steel before malolactic conversion and aging in French oak barrique for 18 months—70% new, 30% once used—then bottled and cellared a further 12 months before release. In a high-end wine world with increasing fraudulent product, you might be interested in authenticating what you purchase, although you shouldn’t have concerns with the LCBO as your supplier. However, there is a mechanism on the bottle you purchase that will allow you to certify the provenance – here’s a link where you can enter the code on the bottle to assure authenticity or use an app and your smart phone – Ornellia authenticity.

Ornellaia 2012

DOC Bolgheri Superiore $195.95 (722470) 14.5% alcohol

Piquant spice, earthy notes and dark berry fruit aromas abound. A gorgeous wash of briary berry and cassis entwined with racy Montmorency cherry and garnished with spice box, truffles and espresso roast, coat the palate. This majestic red blend delivers a broad-shouldered, structured wine that showcases elegance, deft balance and finesse; the proverbial iron fist in a velvet glove. It finishes with incredible length supported by persistent fruit, good acidity and friendly tannin. Pour 2018 to 2027 or, if you must, pour now after a three-hour aeration/decant. (Vic Harradine)

Zaccagnini Dal Tralcetto Montelpulciano D’Abruzzo 2013
DOC Montepulciano D’Abruzzo $19.95 (396382) 12.5% alcohol
The price-quality balance tips well in your favour here. Aromas of mixed spice and roasted herb introduce a rich, luscious wash of ripe black berry and cassis garnished with more spice and black plum. This is medium-full bodied, nicely textured and beautifully balanced with a lengthy finish that’s full of fruit and lip-smacking red-cherry tang. It’s good to go now poured with burgers, pizza, gourmet sausage, beef fajitas or burritos. (Vic Harradine)

• The Sagrantino grape is indigenous to Umbria, Italy and grown extensively around the village of Montefalco. Although the growing area and overall production is quite small, it did gain DOCG status in the early 1990s due to its general high quality. It’s known as one of the most tannic red grapes—regulations require at least 29 months aging before release—and is often inky/black/opaque in the glass.

Villa Mora Montefalco Sagrantino 2009
DOCG Montefalco, Umbria $25.95 (342394) 14.5% alcohol
Mixed spice and savoury herb aromas unleash a firm torrent of ripe, dark berry fruit, black plum compote interwoven with peppery spice and espresso roast coating the palate with excellent acidity and a supple, fine-grained, tannin underpinning. This is full bodied and well textured with oodles of charm, deft balance and long delicious aftertaste brimming with ripe fruit and delicious tang. Aerate/decant three hours and pour with hearty game stew, osso bucco or cassoulet. (Vic Harradine)

Tomassi ‘Masseria Surani - Heracles’ Primitivo 2013
IGT Puglia $17.95 (434274) 13.5% alcohol
Pipe tobacco, piquant spice and cherry/berry fruit aromas on the nose, this is rich and fruit driven; it’s a real crowd pleaser. It saw ten months of seasoned oak barrel that’s now seamlessly integrated. A gusher of dark bramble berry and juicy black cherry adorned with mocha, black licorice and spice coat the palate infusing the finish and aftertaste. Pour on its own or with pastisio or lasagna—stock up for drinking now to end of 2018. (Vic Harradine)

• The following Chianti is 100% from the sub-zone, Rufina, one of seven zones in Chianti proper, with Rufina being the most recognizable and exported, being often decribed as complex and elegant. The highest-regarded zone is Chianti Classico and prices often reflect that.

Frascole Chianti Rufina 2012
DOCG Chianti $17.95 (85167) 13.5% alcohol
This is sleek and polished with lively aromas of piquant spice and red berry fruit. It dishes up a tangy line of pie cherry nicely juxtaposed to ripe, sweet mulberry adorned with earthy notes and herbs streaking across the palate, racy and riveting. It’s mid weight with good texture and dry, crisp and lip-smacking aftertaste. Pour alongside pasta puttanesca. (Vic Harradine)

• The word ‘Classico’, the pink band and the seal with a black rooster (in Italian, ‘Gallo Nero’) indicates a wine from the oldest and most genuine area of the entire Chianti region having produced wine there for over 2000 years. The following is typical of the region with the price-quality ratio skewed well in your favour.

Nozzole Chianti Classico Riserva 2011
DOCG Chianti Classico $19.95 (324160) 13.5% alcohol
A bouquet of red cherry/berry fruit, floral notes and flinty/mineral bits provide segue for a tang-laden wash of sour cherry and pomegranate nicely balanced with briary berry and hints of kirsch liqueur. A sweet and tang finish layers on good balance and a mouth-watering aftertaste. Pick up a few for drinking over the next three years. This 100% Sangiovese punches well above the price—terrific value. (Vic Harradine)

Donatella Cinelli ‘Colombini’ Brunello Di Montalcino 2008
DOCG Brunello Di Montalcino $44.95 (113357) 14.0% alcohol
The aromas are lifted and lovely with red cherry and earthy/flinty notes to the fore. Racy, polished flavours of red currant and pie cherry steak across the palate flecked with a zesty mineral element. It showcases good construction with depth and complexity. It finishes quite lengthy with replays on the dry, mouth-watering aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)

Renzo Masi ‘Erta E China’ 2012
IGT Rosso di Toscana $16.95 (132308) 13.5% alcohol
This red blend—50% Sangiovese, 50% Cabernet Sauvignon—aged 14 months in two-year old French and American oak barrel. Aromas of toasty oak, espresso roast and piquant spice set the stage for a medium-full bodied, creamy textured river of racy red berry fruit—currant, raspberry, cranberry—interlaced with mixed spice, underpinned by firm tannin and framed by good tang and acidity. Aerate/decant a couple of hours serving with meat-lovers pizza, beef fajitas or lasagna. (Vic Harradine)

Musella Amarone Della Valpolicella 2010
DOCG Valpolicella $56.95 (363382) 15.5% alcohol
Aromas of red cherry and ripe dark berry fruit mingling with charred toast, espresso roast and mixed spice replay on the palate with tang-laden nerve and verve. This is full bodied with good texture and a dry, lip-smacking finish and aftertaste layering on wisps of dried currant. Pour alongside meat/tomato/rice-stuffed, baked green peppers. (Vic Harradine)

• The ‘Appassilento’ in the following wine is not a typo, it’s a play on words—or possibly a play on regulations—for ‘Appassimento’. As I understand this, the initial regulated name for Amarone’s little brother, was ‘DOC Valpolicella Ripasso’. The regulation also stated that only two times the volume of Amarone produced each vintage can be labeled thus. Although Amarone is quite popular, Ripasso at half the price, became far more popular, outstripping the 2:1 ratio. Not wanting to curtail production, producers began to label the wines ‘Appassimento’, thus skirting the 2:1 regulation. The regulations responded by including Appassimento in the 2:1 ratio. It appears Farina responded with IGT Rosso del Veneto and ‘Appassilento’ on the wine below. Appassimento roughly translates to ‘re-passed’ or ‘passed over’ (referring to Amarone skins that these wines are ‘passed over’, while ‘lento’ means slowly). One wonders if the regulatory body is now doing a slow burn.

Farina Appassilento 2013
IGT Rosso del Veneto $15.95 (438481) 13.0% alcohol
This has loads of red and dark, juicy fruit and a lengthy finish and aftertaste. Aromas of black cherry, fig, floral notes and mocha provide segue for a mid-weight, nicely textured stream of pie cherry and wisps of cranberry melding with ripe briary berry, some oaky and savoury notes. It finishes long with freshness and a lively red cherry tang. (Vic Harradine)

The Main Release

Dessert Wine

 
Cave Spring ‘Indian Summer’ Select Late Harvest Riesling 2013

VQA Niagara Peninsula $24.95 (415901) 375 mL 12.5% alcohol

A true treasure; if you haven’t given this a try, I can’t encourage you strongly enough. Not an icewine, but grapes from the VQA sub-appellation of Lincoln Lakeshore were hand picked and pressed while partially frozen. It pours well with pan-seared spiced pâté, aged hard cheese, foie gras or fruit flan. Perfumed aromas of apricot, herbs and spice, honeyed pit fruit and lemony citrus herald a delightful flow of poached pear, peel marmalade and lemon-pie filling juxtaposed with a balancing, tangy line of racy citrus keeping it far from cloying on the finish and aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)

Icewine

  
Inniskillin Riesling Icewine 2014
VQA Niagara Peninsula $79.95 (558288) 375 mL 9.5% alcohol
Inniskillin has a long history as an icewine producer in Canada having been credited with creating the international market for this unique wine. Not surprising then that this would be an exemplar of the style characterized by a luscious, creamy honeyed texture and captivating aromas and flavours of tangy orange/lemon marmalade, honeyed pear, dried apricot and vanilla custard. There’s a finely calibrated seam of refined acidity adding freshness to the taste experience with a tantalizing and elusive spice note through the finish. Simply delicious! (Susan Desjardins)

Sparkling Wine

  
Featherstone ‘Joy’ Premium Cuvée Rosé 2014
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $29.95 (450700) 12.5% alcohol
Produced in the traditional method—the second fermentation in bottle—this peachy-pink gem is just what you need for Sunday dinner—pairing each course from start to finish. Prominent and alluring aromas rush from the glass—field strawberries and tangy cherries to the fore—bringing to mind a field of Ontario berries warmed by summer sun. Dry and light mid-weight, the wine is bursting with refreshing red cherry/berry flavours underlined by a touch of minerality. The frothy, persistent, refined mousse carries lively flavours through the lengthy finish. Well done! (Susan Desjardins)

Cave de Ribeauvillé ‘Giersberger Brut’ Crémant d’Alsace Non-Vintage

AOC Alsace $19.95 (183624) 12.0% alcohol

Floral aromas interlace with minerality and lemon citrus on the nose. There’s a delicious wave of tropical fruit—melon, pineapple and notions of mango—mingling with racy, refreshing grapefruit and Key lime. This is well balanced with frothy fine-bead bubbles and a clean, crisp and mouth-watering finish. There’s a world of good value here. (Vic Harradine)

Ontario: White Wine

 
Cave Spring ‘Estate Bottled’ Chardonnay 2013

VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Peninsula $18.95 (256552) 13.0% alcohol

From early pioneers of the modern era of vitis vinifera plantings and winemaking in Niagara, Cave Spring’s portfolio of fine wine showcase the Pennachetti family’s determination, dedication and excellence. Smoky/toasty aromas merge with baked apple and pit fruit on the nose before coating the palate with a stylish gusher of balanced and beautiful flavour—apple pie spice, racy lemon pie filling and wisps of toasty oak predominant. The finish is crisp, lengthy and lip-smacking good. (Vic Harradine)

• The following Charles Baker Riesling was sourced from the Picone Vineyard of +30-year-old, 21-B Weiss-clone vines—this clone has produced Canada’s Best Riesling numerous times. The Picone Vineyard is found atop the Niagara escarpment—formed by an ancient sea some 400 million years ago.

 
Charles Baker ‘Picone Vineyard’ Riesling 2012

VQA Vinemount Ridge, Niagara Peninsula $35.95 (241182) 11.0% alcohol

This limited-production, artisan Riesling is highly sought after each vintage. Aromas of citrus, minerality and wisps of green apple herald a tension-filled, laser-like beam of racy lemon, Granny Smith apple, peach and flinty notes streaking across the palate, infusing the taut, lip-smacking finish and aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)

 
Konzelmann Gewürztraminer 2013
VQA Niagara Peninsula $14.95 (492357) 13.0% alcohol
Balancing fresh texture and rich fruit, this mid-weight gem offers lifted scents of flowers, grated gingerroot, lychee, pineapple and pear. Off dry, it combines the tang of ginger with the richness of tropical and orchard fruit, all punctuated by a nicely defined backbone of clean acidity. Rich and satiny in texture, the long refreshing finish offers a trace of fruity sweetness. A fine value and great match for Sunday ham. (Susan Desjardins)

 
Tawse Winery ‘Sketches of Niagara’ Riesling 2014

VQA Niagara Peninsula $17.95 (89029) 10.0% alcohol

Opening with delicate aromas of Key lime, lemon and notions of flint and slate, this coats the palate with a deliriously delicious, sweet and tang flow of lime cordial, lemon curd and grilled pineapple. It’s balanced on a pin with persistent purity of fruit and lingering aftertaste that’s to die for. Exceptional wine at an exceptional price; pick up a few for easy drinking now to 2018. (Vic Harradine)

Okanagan Valley: White Wine

• We see very few B.C. wines in Ontario; a pity, as a rising tide raises all boats, premium quality Ontario and premium quality B.C. wines reflect well on each other. The following wine is from a family very familiar to Ontarians, the Triggs family. Don was former co-owner—along with Alan Jackson—of Jackson-Triggs as they built it into the most powerful brand in the Canadian wine industry. Elaine and Don Triggs with daughter Sara now spend their time working their magic with wine in B.C.’s Okanagan Valley. Their vineyard manager and winemaker is Pascal Madevon. Classically trained in France, Pascal joined Culmina in 2013 after 10 years as winemaker at the iconic, Osoyoos Larose. Viticulture and winemaking consultant, Alain Sutre, is also classically trained in France after growing up there on his family’s vineyard. Alain was contracted from the get go in 2006 to help the Triggs reach their goal of ‘producing terroir-driven wines of iconic quality.’ The following wine and others tasted, one later in this newsletter under ‘Upstream in Vintages’ certainly attests to their success. The following 2014 ‘Decora’ was single-vineyard sourced from a cooler, elevated site at 600m.

 
Culmina ‘Decora’ Riesling 2014
VQA Okanagan Valley $24.95 (444836) 13.0% alcohol
Tropical fruit, citrus and floral aromas open this medium-bodied, gorgeously textured, tang-laden Riesling. It bathes the palate with lime juice, racy lemon curd and green apple—crisp, refreshing and lip-smacking good. Flavours and tang replay on the dense and intense, lingering aftertaste along with hints of chalky minerality, peach skin and grapefruit pith—mouth watering and bone dry. This will become less edgy with more complexity following a bit more bottle age. (Vic Harradine)

Ontario: Red Wine

 
Henry of Pelham ‘Estate’ Cabernet/Merlot 2012
VQA Short Hills Bench $24.95 (395855) 14.0% alcohol
The intensely concentrated fruit character of this blend of the Cabs and Merlot showcases fruit from Henry of Pelham’s older vines—with fruit concentration reflected in the lovely, ripe, lifted aromas of forest berries entwined with notes of vanilla, spiced rose and dried herbs. Dry, medium-full bodied, this offers a defined structure and deft balance of firm ripe tannin, clean acidity and well-integrated oak. There’s a rush of flavour across the palate—ripe berry, cherry and plum accented by vanilla notes and spice. The flavourful dry finish is lingering and balanced—Vic and I both loved this. A great choice for prime rib, and an excellent value. (Susan Desjardins)

 
Rosewood Estates ‘Select Series’ Pinot Noir 2013

VQA Niagara Escarpment $21.95 (112177) 13.0% alcohol 

A quiet nose of delicate spice, red berry fruit and earthy notes introduces a balanced and beautiful wash of tangy sour cherry and ripe bramble berry interlaced with beetroot and spice. It’s medium bodied with creamy-smooth mouth feel, stylish and structured with purity of fruit throughout. It finishes balanced and fruity, dry and refreshing. (Vic Harradine)

California: White Wine

Folie à Deux Chardonnay 2013

Russian River Valley, Sonoma County $21.95 (146951) 13.9% alcohol

This American Viticulture Area, a.k.a. AVA, is well known for the cooling fog reducing day temperatures 30° to 40° F, allowing for longer hang time while retaining good acidity. Floral, green apple and citrus aromas kick off a river of tropical fruit, lemon chiffon pie and toasty oak flavour. It bathes the palate, medium bodied, nicely textured with a balanced, lengthy finish and aftertaste. Pour with roast chicken or turkey. (Vic Harradine)

Argentina: Red Wine

Susana Balbo ‘Signature’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2013

Uco Valley, Mendoza $19.95 (260919) 14.0% alcohol

This is classic Cabernet Sauvignon with a 5% dash of Merlot offering notes of violet and savory herb aromas. The palate’s teased with impressive notes of juicy red berries and a whiff of rosemary. It’s smooth and clean with soft tannin and a tinge of menthol on the finish. Try it with prime rib or roast leg of lamb. (Julie Stock)

Chile: White Wine

Luis Felipe Edwards ‘Marea’ Chardonnay 2014
Leyda Valley $22.95 (439349) 14.0% alcohol
Produced from hand-picked fruit, fermented with indigenous yeast and partly barrel-fermented, this weighty white displays its layered complexity on the nose—tropical and orchard fruit, notions of baked apple, grilled nuts and delicate spice. The cool-climate acidity shines through, framing flavours of pineapple, ripe pear and apple with the lift of lemon zest and the spiciness of seamlessly integrated oak. Medium-full bodied, it finishes lengthy and clean, warm and dry, a great wine to pair with herbed crown roast of pork. (Susan Desjardins)

Chile: Red Wine

Primus ‘The Blend’ 2013
Colchagua Valley $19.95 (712463) 14.5% alcohol
This blend—principally composed of Carmenère, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah—highlights aromas of mint, ripe dark fruit, dried herbs and pepper. Dry and full bodied, it’s just packed with lush raspberry and blackberry flavours layered with notes of licorice, chocolate, sweet spice and vanilla. The supple tannin and fine acidity combine with rich fruit flavours to create a nicely balanced, very approachable red with its winning personality carried through the lingering finish. Enjoy with grilled red meats—good value here. (Susan Desjardins)

Australia: White Wine

• The name and picture on the label of the following wine —a hen and chicken—is worth noting. The particular clone of Chardonnay planted here is often referred to as ‘Mendoza’ and less often as ‘Gin Gin’. It’s known for its irregularity, producing big and small bunches, a.k.a. hen and chicken, resulting in lower yields, intense aromas and flavours. A more serious note is these particular vines were planted un-grafted, on their own rootstock, leading to a possible repeat of a devastating epidemic from phylloxera. As the preceding link explains, there’s no cure after vines are attacked, one must rip out all existing vines and replant with vines grafted on phylloxera-resistant rootstock—vines from North America.

Ad Lib ‘Hen & Chicken’ Chardonnay 2014
Pemberton, Western Australia $19.95 (297697) 14.0% alcohol
Smoke, oak, orchard fruit and flinty notes flare from this beautifully structured, well-balanced beauty. It’s sleek and polished on the palate with a streak of racy acidity riding on lemon curd and ripe peach and pear flavour. Fruit was hand harvested and whole-bunch, indigenous-yeast fermented resting for a short time in new and seasoned French oak. It’s crisp and refreshing on the finish pouring well with roast chicken, pork or sea food. This is very good value. (Vic Harradine)

Australia: Red Wine

Barossa Valley Estate Grenache/Shiraz/Mourvèdre 2012
Barossa Valley, South Australia $21.95 (438440) 14.0% alcohol
Aromas of savoury herb and cedar herald a luscious river of tang-laden red currant, pie cherry and savoury notes. These replay on the mid-length finish and aftertaste, medium-plus bodied with decent mouth feel and plenty of racy red fruit flavour. Pour alongside pasta Bolognese. (Vic Harradine)

New Zealand: White Wine

Oyster Bay Pinot Grigio 2014

Hawke’s Bay, North Island $18.95 (326090) 13.0% alcohol

Subdued aromas of floral notes and orchard fruit give way to a tang-laced streak of lemon zest, racy lime and hints of passion fruit. It’s light-medium bodied with a mid-length finish and aftertaste. This pours well on its own and pairs exceptionally well with grilled calamari rings under a squirt of fresh lemon. (Vic Harradine)

South Africa: White Wine

Vinum Africa Chenin Blanc 2013
Stellenbosch $15.95 (739995) 13.0% alcohol
Featuring South Africa’s signature ‘Steen’ grape, a.k.a. Chenin Blanc, this golden gem was produced from concentrated fruit of old, bush vines. It offers attractive aromas of stone fruit, pineapple and exotic spice. The dry and mid-weight, tasty palate offers flavours of ripe pear, caramel apple, grilled pineapple and a trace of cinnamon. The toasty, nutty notes carry through the finish joined by spicy ripe fruit. Persistent, concentrated flavours make this a perfect pairing with salmon en croute or pork with braised apple sauce. (Susan Desjardins)

France: Red Wine

Château Fonréaud 2012
AOC Listrac-Médoc $29.95 (444083) 13.0% alcohol
This opaque purple red blend—Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot—displays layers of aromas: cassis, cedar, hints of dried herbs, roasted pepper, vanilla and spice. Dry and medium-full bodied, the structure comes to the fore with robust, drying tannin, clean acidity and charred toasty notes. There’s also an earthy quality with flavours of red cherry and black currant as well as some vegetal notes hinting of beetroot. Displaying potential and power, this will benefit from further cellaring. (Susan Desjardins)

• The following Grand Cru red is 100% Gamay from hi-density planted, 45-year old vines with fruit undergoing partial carbonic maceration. The preceding link explains the carbonic maceration method that is commonly used in Beaujolais as well as in other regions. Fleurie is one of the ten Grand Crus of Beaujolais used to signify wines of better structure, depth and flavour along with longer aging potential. It’s certainly not to be confused with Beaujolais Nouveau and is quite different to an AOC Beaujolais red.

Domaine des Nugues Fleurie 2013
AOC Fleurie $23.95 (447219) 13.0% alcohol
The earthy aromas in this beet-like hued, dry red, interlace with forest berries, black currant jam and a whiff of orange zest and flowers on the nose. The structure’s offered by perceptible tannin joined by lively tang and a wash of red and black berry fruit. There’s a touch of spice on the lingering finish of this medium-bodied red. Pour alongside a deli platter of baguette and charcuterie. (Susan Desjardins)

Le Gravillas Côtes du Rhône-Villages Séguret 2014
AOC Côtes du Rhône-Villages Séguret $15.95 (309260) 14.0% alcohol
Bright purple/opaque hued, this medium-full bodied blend of Grenache/Syrah offers a basket of appealing aromas—kirsch, dried flowers, herbs, incense and spice with blackcurrant and raspberry jam. There’s a piquant note of pepper underlying the rush of plummy ripe fruit with good balance maintained by supple tannin and fresh acidity. Spicy, peppery notes persist through the dry finish. Serve with hearty meat or vegetable stew. (Susan Desjardins)

Château Bellevue la Forêt 2011

AOC Fronton $13.95 (354134) 14.5% alcohol

Produced from Negrette blended with the Cabernets and Syrah, there’s an earthy note—reminiscent of freshly pulled beets—drifting over aromas of berry and plum, licorice and spice. The dry, concentrated dark fruit flavours wash across the palate tinged with a replay of licorice and spice with an underlying earthy note. Full bodied and firm, it’s clean in texture and offers a long-lasting, fruit-filled aftertaste. Serve with duck confit. (Susan Desjardins)

Spain: Red Wine

San José de Aguarón ‘Monasterio de Las Viñas’ Reserva 2006

DO Cariñena, Spain $14.95 (166579) 13.0% alcohol

Floral notes, red cherry and incense herald a lively and lovely river of red currant mingling with kirsch liqueur and spice. Value-packed, balanced and charming, it’s mid weight, nicely textured and blessed with a lingering, smoke-infused, berry fruit aftertaste. Pour alongside chorizo and prawn paella. (Vic Harradine)

Bodegas Arroyo ‘Señorío de Sotillo’ Crianza 2011
DO Ribera del Duero $19.95 (438648) 14.0% alcohol
Lively aromas of red and black berry fruit with oodles of spice and wisps of mocha set the table for a smorgasbord of flavour with black plum compote, dark briary berry and bittersweet chocolate to the fore. This is medium-plus bodied with good mouth feel and a lingering finish of fruit-forward, tang-laden flavour. Good to go now with chicken and andouille sausage jambalaya – Ole! (Vic Harradine)

Upstream in winecurrent

Vintages Release: April 2, 2016

• The following wine is made from the white grape, Pinot Gris, an interesting variety as it’s a mutation of the black grape, Pinot Noir. With Pinot Noir in its DNA, it ripens multi hued, from grayish/blue all the way to deep blue with some grapes almost white and others brownish-pink. Take a white piece of paper and place it on a well-lit surface. Pour an ounce or so of the following Iris Vineyards Pinot Gris in a wine glass and tip it slightly toward, not over, the rim of the glass then look at the paper through the wine. You may be able to pick up its copper-pink hue. As this, and most white wine, was fermented with little or no contact with grape skins— there’s only a slight hue to this fabulous Gris. The colour of wine is derived from the skins.

Iris Vineyards Pinot Gris 2013
Oregon $19.95 (445726) 12.6% alcohol
This Gris offers a unique treat—low alcohol and not a splinter of oak—enjoy pure, delectable fruit flavour without adornment. Alluring aromas of buckwheat honey, ripe pear and flecks of minerality introduce a medium weight, creamy smooth, seamless wash of apple, pear and tangy lime cordial on the palate and lingering, lip-smacking aftertaste garnished with mandarin orange and peach skin. It’s great value, balanced on a pin, very highly recommended. (Vic Harradine)

Vintages Release: April 16, 2016

Culmina ‘R & D’ ‘Red Blend’ 2014
VQA Golden Mile Bench, Okanagan Valley $24.95 (445494) 14.0% alcohol
This blend of predominantly Merlot, along with the two Cabs, is from the fabulous Okanagan Valley sub region, Golden Mile Bench, just south of Oliver, BC. The lifted nose of cedar, spice and black plum aromas let loose an elegant, well-paced stream of bramble berry fruit and red cherry robed in spice cake and dark bittersweet chocolate on the palate. It’s medium-weight with good mouth feel and a balanced and beautiful finish and aftertaste. Red-wine lovers will adore this. (Vic Harradine)

 
Château Sainte-Marie ‘Vieilles Vignes’ Entre-deux-Mers 2014

AOC Entre-deux-Mers, France $14.95 (447565) 12.5% alcohol

Bright and clean on the nose, this award-winning, value-packed blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon and Muscadelle offers light floral and herbal aromas, notes of citrus, apricot and a notion of wet stone. Light-medium bodied on the palate, the texture is mouth-watering and crisp, the citrus expressed as grapefruit and lime with hints of smoke and flint, the herbaceous quality adds character. Finishing long and dry, this is your go-to wine for fresh seafood. (Susan Desjardins)

Vintages Release: April 30, 2016

Sidewood Estate Shiraz 2013
Adelaide Hills, Australia $19.85 (446146) 14.0% alcohol
Aromas of charred toast and dark, juicy briary berry mingle with baking spice on the nose of this beautifully textured, cooler-climate, hand-harvested Shiraz. It coats the palate with a dense, tightly packed gusher of sweet, ripe mulberry and black cherry entwined with black plum compote, wisps of oak and savoury notes. It’s medium-plus bodied with a long fruit-forward, tang-laden aftertaste. Drink now—after a three hour aerate/decant—pouring with grilled rack of lamb. (Vic Harradine)

New in Vintages – available now

• The following red is 100% Tempranillo, located in the premium Rioja sub-region – La Rioja Alta – and was sourced from hand-harvested fruit. After fermentation it received two to three weeks maceration then underwent malolactic conversion—converting harsh malic acid to creamy smooth lactic acid—followed by 12 months aging in French and American oak barrel then a further six months in bottle. It’s on LCBO Vintages shelves right now.

Bodegas Valdelacierva Crianza 2011
DOCa Rioja, Spain $19.95 (438713) 14.0% alcohol
Fresh, lively aromas of red berry fruit and piquant spice interlace with mocha and cedar on the nose. A medium-bodied, racy river of pie cherry joined by a dusting of cocoa and mixed spice, bathe the palate and infuse the finish and lengthy aftertaste with balance, persistent purity of fruit and pizzazz. Pour after a two-hour, aeration/decant alongside grilled steak, gourmet sausage or burgers. (Vic Harradine)

New in the LCBO Portfolio

 
Fielding Estate Riesling 2014

VQA Beamsville Bench $19.95 (251439) 10.5% alcohol

Lifted floral notes mingle with orchard fruit, hints of lime and tangerine along with a whiff of wet stone. Off dry and mid weight, this citrusy Riesling offers up a lovely mineral character and clean, juicy acidity presenting a fine counterpoint to ripe, sweet fruit. There’s great balance and freshness throughout. Serve on its own or with soft cheese. (Susan Desjardins)

 
Fielding Estate Rosé 2015
VQA Niagara Peninsula $15.95 (53421) 12.3% alcohol
This attractive, pale Rosé—primarily Gamay and Cabernet Franc—offers a perfumed, expressive nose of red berry and crunchy apple with a whiff of mineral and citrus. It’s off dry, light-medium bodied and underpinned with a nice dose of acidity offsetting ripe sweet fruit. The palate rings true replaying strawberry and cranberry tinged with apple skin and citrus pith. It finishes with a cleansing touch of pungency and pairs well with an arugula-based salad with duck confit. (Susan Desjardins)

 
Fielding Estate ‘White Conception’ 2013
VQA Niagara Peninsula $18.95 (203737) 12.5% alcohol
This unique blend of 34% Chardonnay/32% Pinot Gris/32% Viognier dishes up alluring aromas of tropical fruit—pineapple and mango—interwoven with honey and citrus. It bathes the palate with a balanced and beautiful stream of honey-drizzled guava and lemon curd with grapefruit pith and peach skin. It’s medium weight with good mouth feel and a lingering, lip-smacking, tangy finish. This really sings with pan-seared fish or sea food; tried mine with pan-seared salmon alongside par-boiled, pan-grilled broccoli and cauliflower - delicious. (Vic Harradine)

 
Fielding Estate ‘Red Conception’ 2013
VQA Niagara Peninsula $18.95 (189183) 13.0% alcohol
This blend of separately vinified Cabernets/Syrah/Merlot offers enticing notes of sweet vanilla, spice, cocoa and cedar, ripe berries and plum. There’s good structure to this; it’s medium-bodied with supple tannin underpinning ripe fruit and well-integrated notes of oak. There’s lively texture complementing tasty flavours of black plum, cherry and raspberry. Notes of spice, pepper and hints of cocoa and toasty oak round out the lengthy, dry finish. Enjoy this well-crafted, approachable wine with grilled meats and vegetables. (Susan Desjardins)

 
Long Weekend Cabernet 2014
VQA Niagara Peninsula $13.95 (427328) 13.0% alcohol
Brambleberry aromas mingle with wisps of capsicum and dried herbs along with hints of violet and earth. Dry and light-mid weight, this straightforward blend of the Cabernets offers pleasing flavours of red berries, black currant, diced peppers and dried herbs. The texture is refreshing with soft tannin contributing to the balance while the finish is tangy and lively. Serve with pizza or burgers topped with chutney. (Susan Desjardins)

• Order the following two wines by the case (can be a mixed case with other wine offered on their website) along with those from the previous March 1, 2016 newsletter for daily home or office delivery online from Fielding or pick up a bottle or more from the winery door at 4020 Locust Lane, Beamsville ON. 

• You’ll find a number of Fielding wines throughout this newsletter. This family-owned and managed winery gathers steam, going from strength to strength—they were twice voted, ‘One of Canada’s Top Ten Wineries’. Fielding produces a broad portfolio of consistently quality and value-driven wines gaining recognition and numerous medals. Curtis Fielding was voted ‘Grape King’ in 2012—awarded for excellence in viticulture. Heidi Fielding is the effervescent Sales and Marketing guru, and winemaker extraordinaire, Richie Roberts, never misses a step. Heidi, Curtis and Richie have all been recipients of a ‘40 Under 40’ award, while Heidi and Curtis have been finalists in ‘Young Farmers in Canada’.

New in Ontario Wineries

 
Fielding Estate ‘Chosen Few’ 2012
VQA Niagara Peninsula $59.95 13.5% alcohol
This blend of Cabernet Franc, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon is from one of Niagara’s superior vintages showcasing dense colour and outstanding depth and breadth of flavour. Alluring aromas abound—cedar and dried herbs, ripe berries, plum and cherries, spiced vanilla and toast. Velvety texture caresses the palate with ripe tannin and clean acidity framing tasty cassis, black cherry and raspberry flavours. Notes of cocoa and spiced toast join a touch of pepper adding warmth to the lasting, dry finish of this medium-full bodied, stunning red. Displaying excellent balance and fine craftsmanship, this is an elegant, cellar-worthy wine showcasing premium Niagara fruit and adroit winemaking. Serve with rare prime rib and tuck a few bottles away to enjoy over the next five or so years. (Susan Desjardins)

 
Fielding Estate ‘Traditional Method’ Sparkling Rosé
VQA Niagara Peninsula $29.95 12.0% alcohol
This pale-peach blend was sourced from hand-harvested Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, fermented in stainless steel and neutral French oak with second fermentation in bottle after blending. Aromas of yeast, tangy red berries, peach and citrus waft easily. Cleansing, vibrant, delightfully fresh, it trips lightly over the palate displaying quality and depth. There’s toasty evidence of a year on the lees with vivacious texture, delicate strength and persistent, frothy mousse. The tart red fruit shares the spotlight with hints of orchard fruit fused in harmony with a touch of citrus pith and minerality. It’s fab on its own or with a meal or celebration—great value. (Susan Desjardins)

New in Private Order

• Order the following wine by the case for home, restaurant or office delivery in Ontario along with those published in the February 20, 2016 and March 1, 2016 newsletters from Nokhrin Wines or Email This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it., if in the GTA phone 416 704-8617.

Château la Bretonnière Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux 2012
AOC Côtes de Bordeaux, France $15.55 13.5% alcohol
Aromas of dark berry fruit and earthy, savoury herb notes abound prior to washing over the palate, medium bodied with good mouth feel and a balanced stream of cassis, black briary berry and roasted herbs. It’s primarily high-density-planted Merlot fruit sourced from 25-year-old vines with only partial and brief oak aging. It’s medium-weight with good texture and a fairly lengthy and mouth-watering, dry finish. Given the provenance, it’s quite good value. (Vic Harradine)

• Order the following wines—plus those in the January, 2016 newsletter—by the case for home, restaurant or office delivery in Ontario from VinoLuna wine agency. Contact via website, VinoLuna, by Email This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it., or in the GTA phone 416 587-6691.

Bellini ‘Comedia’ Rosso Toscano 2013
IGT Rosso Toscano, Italy $18.15 13.0% alcohol
Wood smoke with exotic incense and spice curl from this racy, hand-picked, red blend—50% Sangiovese, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Syrah. ‘Comedia’ links to the Divine Comedy, the countryside and the warm Tuscan sun. Pie cherry and dark berry fruit coalesce with excellent tang and acidity underpinned by supple tannin. Aerate/decant for a couple of hours serving with meat-laden pizza or spaghetti with meat balls in tomato sauce. (Vic Harradine)

Bellini ‘Riserva’ Chianti Rufina 2013
DOCG Chianti Rufina, Italy $20.60 12.5% alcohol
Aromas of cedar, tobacco, minty/mineral notes and black berry spill from the glass of this satin-smooth beauty. A smorgasbord of flavour coats the palate with ripe dark cherry and juicy bramble berry interwoven with currants, fig and spice cake. It’s medium bodied, well balanced and full of charm. It finishes with full fruit, good acidity and quite lengthy. Good to go now and on to 2019; it’s good value and soars with grilled meat, pasta dishes with red sauce or roast fowl. (Vic Harradine)

Bellini ‘Dominante’ 2013
IGT Rosso Toscano, Italy $19.20 12.5% alcohol
This is creamy smooth with oodles of ripe fruit—70% Sangiovese with the balance an even split of Merlot, Cab Sauv, Syrah. The quiet nose offers red and dark berry fruit with wisps of spice. It dishes up a luscious, medium-bodied wash of ripe briary berry fruit with black plum compote and red cherry bathing the palate and mid-length aftertaste. Pour alongside grilled steak, burgers or gourmet sausage. (Vic Harradine)

La Torre ‘La Villa’ Chianti Colli Senesi 2013
DOCG Chianti Colli Senesi, Italy $14.25 13.5% alcohol
This Sangiovese-predominant, terrific-value red was aged about 12 months in oak barrel and includes a 10% splash of Cabernet Sauvignon. Lifted aromas of baking spice and red and black berry fruit introduce a well-balanced stream of dark cherry and espresso roast adorned with high notes of piquant spice and tangy red currant. It’s medium weight with good mouth feel and dry, lengthy finish with warmth on the aftertaste. Pour with pasta puttanesca. (Vic Harradine)

La Torre ‘La Villa’ Chianti Colli Senesi ‘Riserva’ 2013
DOCG Chianti Colli Senesi, Italy $19.55 14.0% alcohol
Produced only in top vintages, this 80% Sangiovese/20% Cabernet Sauvignon blend opens with mint, red berry fruit and red cherry aromas. It bathes the palate with über-creamy texture and a glorious array of flavour—black currant and ripe, sweet mulberry melding with roasted herbs and bittersweet chocolate. There’s good balance, persistent purity of fruit, structure and poise throughout. It was aged approximately 12 months in small oak barriques that are now seamlessly integrated. It finishes long and luxurious. There’s terrific value here. (Vic Harradine)

Fattoria La Torre ‘Rosso’ San Gimignano 2011
DOC San Gimignano, Italy $21.30 14.0% alcohol
Grapes for this fruit-forward blend were sourced from 70% Sangiovese, 15% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon vines. Lively aromas of exotic spice, cedar and dark cherry/berry fruit leap from the glass. It coats the palate with a gusher of black berry and dark juicy cherry adorned with black plum and piquant spice. It’s medium-full bodied with a supple, fine-grained tannin underpinning and excellent, tangy acidity. Aerate/decant for three hours. It finishes with replays—delightful, distinctive, delicious. What’s not to like? (Vic Harradine)

Cheers, Vic and Susan