March 1, 2016 Newsletter

Newsletter highlights include:

Congratulutions! Are in order for reviewer Susan Desjardins and guest reviewer Lisa Isabelle. Both recently passed their Wine and Spirits Education Trust (WSET) Level 3 theory and tasting exams, ‘with distinction’! The ‘with distinction’ indicates the highest award possible in WSET by achieving an average of 80% or more with no part in the demanding course lower than 65%. Susan joined winecurrent in November 2009 having already successfully attained her Algonquin Sommelier Certificate. Lisa was with us briefly in November 2015 as part of her Algonquin Sommelier Certificate course obligations which she also successfully completed.

• Exceptional-value wine  – 8 of 59 wines reviewed meet the strict quality-price guidelines; all are highly recommended and all are easily identified throughout the newsletter with prices from $12.95 to $29.95. What strict guidelines? Click here.
• 5-star Wine – 5 wines rang the 5-star bell – Storybook Mountain ‘Mayacamas Range Napa Estate’ Zinfandel 2012 @ 69.95 and Paul Hobbs Pinot Noir 2012 @ $68.95 and Treana White 2013 @ $29.95 all under Feature: California Wine; Culmina Family Estate Winery ‘Unicus’ Grüner Veltliner 2014 @ $24.95 under Upstream in Winecurrent; Jean Pernet Blanc de Blancs ‘Grand Cru - Réserve’ Brut Multi-Vintage Champagne @ $51.95 under New in Private Order.
• Susan Selects – Finca el Origen ‘Gran Reserva’ Malbec 2013 with 4½ stars @ $19.95 under Argentina: Red Wine; Cicchitti ‘Gran Reserva’ Malbec 2008 with 4½ stars @ $26.95 under Argentina: Red Wine; Tenuta Roveglia ‘Vigne di Catullo’ Lugana ‘Riserva’ 2012 with 4½ stars @ $23.95 under Italy: White Wine; Umberto Cesari ‘Liano’ Sangiovese/Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 with 4½ stars @ $27.95 under Italy: Red Wine; Luca Bosio Barbaresco 2011 with 4½ stars @ $29.95 under Italy: Red Wine.
• Vic Picks – The Prisoner 2014 with 4½ stars @ $49.95 under Feature: California Wine; Treana White 2013 with 5 stars @ $29.95 under Feature: California Wine; Vizcarra ‘Senda Del Oro’ Roble 2012 with 4½ stars @ $18.95 under Spain: Red Wine; Château des Charmes ‘Estate – Barrel Fermented’ Chardonnay 2014 with 4 stars @ $13.95 and Fielding Estate Winery Riesling 2013 with 4 stars @ $15.95 both under New in the LCBO; Jean Pernet ‘Tradition’ Brut Multi-Vintage Champagne @ $40.00 under New in Private Order.

Access the LCBO store nearest you with stock of any wine with an LCBO product number by clicking on the number shown in brackets in wine reviews then clicking on select stores and entering your postal code. The number of bottles available in each store near you is displayed. For Vintages Release wines, stock should be displayed the Friday before a Saturday release, updated every 24 hours, some stores post earlier. LCBO-listed (not in Vintages) wines, should closely reflect stock in stores, updated every 24 hours. However, it’s always best to phone first.

Vintages Release: March 5, 2016

Feature: Classical, Coveted, Collectible - California Wine

Jonata ‘Todos’ Red 2011
Santa Ynez Valley, Santa Barbara County $79.95 (218941) 14.7% alcohol
This multi-blend gem delivers in spades with good weight and structure, deft balance and persistent purity of fruit; it’s primarily Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon. Aromas of exotic incense and red cherry/berry fruit mingle with earthy and floral notes on the nose. A generously textured stream of bramble berry, black cherry and anise spread over the palate infusing the lingering finish and aftertaste along with lip-smacking tang. It’s good to go now after a three-hour aeration/decant and on to 2020. (Vic Harradine)

Frog’s Leap Cabernet Sauvignon 2013
Rutherford, Napa Valley $83.95 (932400) 13.8% alcohol
Aromas of savoury herb and earthy notes herald a medium-full bodied, nicely textured wash of briary berry, pomegranate and red cherry garnished with mocha and toasty notes on the palate framed by marked acidity—it’s still all under a blanket of still-evolving tannin. The provenance portends an optimum drinking window beginning 2019 and extending far beyond. (Vic Harradine)

Joseph Phelps Cabernet Sauvignon 2012
Napa Valley $106.95 (189795) 14.5% alcohol
Haunting aromas of piquant spice, cigar box and grilled herb dominate the nose; this is full bodied, fully textured and full of promise. A gusher of briary berry, black licorice, sweet vanilla and bittersweet chocolate coats the palate with gusto. It finishes lengthy with good depth and concentration in a blaze of black currant and baking spice framed in excellent tang and a solid whack of tannin. Pop corks 2019 and beyond alongside well-seasoned grilled steak. (Vic Harradine)

The Prisoner 2014
Napa Valley $49.95 (104299) 15.2% alcohol
This is a rich and succulent Zin blend—Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Petite Sirah – a.k.a. Durif – and Charbono—built in a luscious, take-no-prisoner style. Aromas of black berry, espresso roast and savory spice introduce a fresh, lively and rich river of black currant and red raspberry robed in excellent, mouth-watering acidity and wisps of ripe, fine-grained tannin. It’s medium-plus weight with good texture and lingering aftertaste of dark, ripe fruit and charm. It’s good to go now and pours well with smoked, grilled back ribs mopped in mild, barbecue sauce. (Vic Harradine)

Shafer Merlot 2013
Napa Valley $94.95 (346262) 15.3% alcohol
If you’re a fan of the flick, ‘Sideways’, you’ll have to re-think its denigrating take on Merlot; this is deep, involved, concentrated and delicious. Baking spice and black plum mingle with aromas of mint and charred toast on the nose of this mid-plus bodied, beautifully textured red. A wide swath of dark, juicy, tangy bramble berry and espresso roast dominate the palate along with notions of sweet, black plum compote. The lengthy finish showcases replays of dark berry fruit, lip-smacking acidity and enough hints of tannin to give interest and structure. Good to go now and on to 2022 aided by a two-hour aeration/decant; this pours well with prime rib roast beef or grilled strip loin. (Vic Harradine)

Storybook Mountain ‘Mayacamas Range Napa Estate’ Zinfandel 2012
Napa Valley $69.95 (682989) 14.9% alcohol
Showcasing mixed spice and rich, ripe dark berry fruit throughout, this rises above its peers with good bones, deft balance, persistent purity of fruit, mouth-watering acidity and an enviable lengthy, delectable aftertaste. Mixed spice and black berry fruit aromas open the floodgates to a seamless rush of tang-laden black currant and mint-infused, black, juicy cherry adorned with baking spice, vanilla and wisps of passion fruit. The firm, memorable aftertaste goes on and on… so could I, but won’t. This is a must-buy for Zin lovers—drinking well now after a two-hour aeration/decant, and on to 2020. (Vic Harradine)

Paul Hobbs Pinot Noir 2012
Russian River Valley, Sonoma County $68.95 (119081) 14.4% alcohol
This dazzling Pinot Noir is elegant, fruit forward and chockfull of ripe, dark, fruit flavour and mouth-watering tang. Aromas of savory herbs and spiced black plum precede a savory-soaked, balanced wash of pure ambrosia with black briary berry, exotic spice and racy pie cherry to the fore. This is well structured and balanced on a pin with good body and a creamy smooth texture. It finishes with more of the same with lip-smacking acidity and more than its fair share of seductive charm. Pour now after a two-hour aeration/decant and on to 2019. (Vic Harradine)

Kistler ‘McCrea Vineyard’ Chardonnay 2013
Sonoma Mountain $120.95 (353706) 14.1% alcohol
Baking spice, orchard fruit, minerality and citrus on the nose, this nicely textured gem explodes on the palate with honey-bathed white nectarine, poached pear, white grapefruit and peach skin. It’s medium weight with oodles of texture and bracing tang throughout. There are wisps of oak, green apple and spice on the long aftertaste. Open in 2017 allowing all pieces to fully knit together. (Vic Harradine)

• One of the iconic three R’s of Zinfandel—Ridge, Ravenswood, Rosenblum—the following has been a sought-after red each vintage since 2001 given its favourable price-quality ratio. Hand-harvested, sustainabley-grown, de-stemmed fruit was fermented with indigenous yeast undergoing full malolactic conversion then aged 15 months in American oak barrel, 10% new and bottled unfined.

Ridge ‘Three Valleys’ 2013
Sonoma County $35.95 (652875) 14.4% alcohol
Piquant spice and red cherry/berry fruit aromas set the table for a smorgasbord of flavour—black currant, sweet, ripe mulberry and black Bing cherry meld with savory herbs and sweet vanilla on the palate. This is full bodied and well textured with a good finish of ripe fruit and mouth-watering tang. It’s drinking well now and pours particularly well with grilled spicy back ribs brushed with spicy barbecue sauce. (Vic Harradine)

Rodney Strong ‘Brothers Ridge’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2012
Alexander Valley, Sonoma County $99.95 (405209) 15.5% alcohol
This California Cab flirted with 5 stars, it’s from the ‘perfect storm’ that fashioned the 2012 Alexander Valley bumper-crop vintage—warm, dry days and cool nights allowed a lengthy, even growing season producing mature grapes with balanced tannin, racy acidity and ripe fruit flavour. Earthiness, cedar and spice box aromas foretell a swashbuckling wash of black berry, cassis and pie cherry coating the palate—full bodied, fully textured and full-bore delectable. It finishes fresh and lively with good tang, sweet tannin and brushstrokes of dark plum and bittersweet chocolate. Drink 2018 to 2024. (Vic Harradine)

J. Lohr ‘Hilltop’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2012
Paso Robles $46.95 (686584) 14.9% alcohol
Roasted herb, anise and mocha on the nose, a flow of savoury-laced red currant and pie cherry mingle with notions of cassis and bramble berry compote bathing the palate infusing the long finish. It’s medium bodied with good mouth feel and firm structure throughout. Aerate/decant three hours before serving or pop corks 2018 to 2022. Pour with osso bucco or venison stew. (Vic Harradine)

• The following blend is fashioned from two varieties—Marsanne and Viognier—both premium grapes - along with Roussanne - used in making fabulous white wine in the northern Rhône Valley of France. It’s not everyday you come across a wine from these grapes grown outside of the Rhône and it’s highly unusual to find them making wine of this high caliber at such an exceptional value-packed price.

Treana White 2013
Central Coast $29.95 (11247) 14.5% alcohol
This equal blend of Marsanne / Viognier leaps from the glass with sexy aromas of honey-drizzled tropical fruit, exotic spice and incense. It bathes the palate with a river of unctuous, creamy/dreamy texture laden with flavour—spice-infused mango, ripe Bosc pear and racy lemon citrus. It’s medium-plus bodied and seamless with a monumentally long and delicious finish and aftertaste—crisp, refreshing and mouth-watering good. Pour on its own or with roast chicken, poached fish or grilled sea food. (Vic Harradine)

The Main Release

Fortified Wine: Port

Cockburn & Smith & Co. ‘Newman's Celebrated’ Port Non-Vintage

DOC Porto $17.95 (134908) 20.0% alcohol

This continues to be one of the great bargains in the LCBO. It’s an entry level ‘Ruby’ Port that over- delivers on every count. Expect spice and cassis on the nose and then ladles of palate-drenching sweet, black, ripe, juicy berry and pit-fruit flavours with more of the same on the finish, sending one in search of a cold winter evening, chocolate dessert or large chips of Parmigiano-Reggiano to match. (Vic Harradine) 

Fruit Wine

 
Forbidden Fruit Winery ‘Pearsuasion’ 2013
Similkameen Valley $20.95 (447151) 13.0% alcohol
Tucked into a sheltered bank of the Similkameen River on the Ven’Amour organic tree-fruit farm, it’s a family-owned enterprise where dedication to the land and focus on quality are reflected in their wine. Pearsuasion is a fine introduction, offering luscious aromas of honeyed pear, white flowers, vanilla and ginger. Dry and fruity, light on its feet, the palate reflects the nose, redolent with notes of sweet Asian pear and lively ginger. A touch of oak emerges in the whiff of spiced vanilla lingering on the tangy, fruity finish. Pair with roast pork tenderloin and butternut squash risotto. (Susan Desjardins)

Icewine

  
Angels Gate ‘Snow Angel’ Riesling Icewine 2013
VQA Niagara Peninsula $29.95 (733378) (200ml) 10.4% alcohol
Luscious aromas of preserved peach, honey-baked apple and pineapple drift from the glass of this luxuriant, palate-coating beauty. Well-calibrated acidity underpins the lush, honeyed layers of fruit—pear, pineapple, stone fruit and citrus marmalade. An attractive toasty note dances through the rich, luxurious finish. Serve with paté or an antipasto platter. (Susan Desjardins)

Sparkling Wine

Vietti Moscato d’Asti 2014
DOP Moscato d’Asti $19.95 (441253) 5.0% alcohol
You’ll definitely want to sample this delightfully light Moscato on any day of the week. Attractive aromas of honeysuckle and ginger, ripe apricot and honey-baked pear herald the tasty sweet fruit flavours accented by subtle, persistent fizz. Finishing light and sweet, this is a very approachable wine and a great choice to sip on its own or serve with apricot tart. (Susan Desjardins)

Ontario: White Wine

  
Fielding Gewürztraminer 2013
VQA Niagara Peninsula $18.95 (146753) 12.0% alcohol
This mid-weight Gewürztraminer combines prominent floral aromas with tropical fruit and the spiciness of freshly grated gingerroot on the nose. There’s good depth of fruit flavour washing across the palate, measured acidity and a replay of ginger offering warmth on the tasty finish. The deft balance throughout make it a fine match for lightly spiced Asian dishes, roast veal or pork. (Susan Desjardins)

  
Flat Rock Riesling 2014

VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara Peninsula $16.95 (43281) 9.5% alcohol

This opens with delicate aromas of lemon-lime and floral notes—it’s off dry, fully flavoured and absolutely delicious. A river of Granny Smith apple, tangy white grapefruit and lemon zest interlace with yellow plum, sweet, ripe tropical fruit and notions of flinty minerality on the palate, persisting through the lip-smacking, citrus-laced finish and aftertaste. Pour alongside breaded and pan-seared calamari rings under a squeeze of fresh lemon. (Vic Harradine)

  
Henry of Pelham ‘Family Tree’ White 2012

VQA Niagara Peninsula $17.95 (251116)13.0% alcohol

Both Vic and I really enjoyed this. Evocative aromas of tropical fruit and musk melon, a touch of spice and wet earth characterize this golden wine. Dry, medium bodied, this flavourful blend offers a lovely smooth texture, a vibrant spine of acidity, attractive spicy notes and a touch of nuttiness. Well balanced, it finishes with a delightfully lasting pithy note. (Susan Desjardins)

  
Kew Vineyards ‘Old Vine’ Chardonnay 2012
VQA Beamsville Bench $18.95 (438374) 14.0% alcohol
A baker’s delight, this offers wonderful aromas of buttered toast, pear and peach, custard tart and a touch of spiced vanilla. Dry, satiny in texture, this medium-bodied Chardonnay showcases layered flavours on the palate—caramel apple, lemon marmalade, grapefruit pith and mineral. The fresh texture deftly complements the lushness of the fruit and the subtlety of the oak. Enjoy with weekend or holiday dishes such as baked ham or roast turkey. (Susan Desjardins)

  
Peninsula Ridge ‘Barrel Aged’ Chardonnay 2014

VQA Beamsville Bench $15.95 (211490) 12.5% alcohol

Aromas of baking spice, caramel and nutty notes open this medium-bodied, nicely textured beauty. It washes over the palate with apple and pear robed in a solid line of mouth-watering lemony tang and spicy oak on the palate, persisting through the delightful finish and aftertaste. This punches well above the price; stock up while you can. (Vic Harradine)

Ontario: Red Wine

  
13th Street ‘Red Palette’ 2013

VQA Niagara Peninsula $15.95 (249458) 13.0% alcohol

Piquant spice, sandalwood and red berry fruit aromas announce a lively, juicy streak of pie cherry and red currant interwoven with spice and earthy notes. It’s medium bodied with good mouth feel and a lingering aftertaste that layers on savory herbs and soft tannin underpinning—racy and lip-smacking good. Pour alongside meat-laden pizza or pasta in tomato sauce. (Vic Harradine)

  
Henry of Pelham ‘Family Tree’ Red 2013

VQA Niagara Peninsula $18.95 (247882) 13.5% alcohol

This red blend—40% Syrah, 30% Merlot, 15% Cab Franc, 10% Cab Sauv, 5% Baco Noir—offers aromas of fresh red berries on the nose. There’s a solid wash of fruit flavour bathing the palate—red cherry and black currant—that’s persistent throughout, garnished with spice, chocolate and toasty notes. It’s showcases supple structure with lovely balance and good mouth feel. The finish is lengthy and mouth-watering. (Vic Harradine)

California: Red Wine

Josh Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon 2013
California $17.00 (412320) 13.5% alcohol
Savoury herbs and dark coffee aromas herald a rich, dense stream of ripe black currant, earthy/forest floor notes and mixed spice. It’s medium-full bodied with good texture and there’s plenty going on in this crowd-friendly, drink-me-now, California Cabernet. The involved finish and aftertaste layer on waves of mocha, cassis and hints of kirsch liqueur. This has good balance, depth and personality pouring well on its own and with steak, burgers, meat-laden pizza and grilled gourmet sausage. Pick up a few bottles for large gatherings and drinking over the next four years. (Vic Harradine)

Argentina: Red Wine

Clos de Los Siete 2012

Uco Valley, Mendoza $24.95 (622571) 14.5% alcohol

The ubiquitous, international-vigneron Michel Rolland had a hand in this impressive red blend—57% Malbec, 18% Merlot, 14% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Syrah. A delectable rush of tangy briary berry and black juicy cherry dressed in great acidity and perceptible tannin coat the palate replaying on the lengthy, dry finish and aftertaste. Aerate/decant three hours or pop corks 2018-2023. (Vic Harradine)

Finca el Origen ‘Gran Reserva’ Malbec 2013
Vista Flores, Uco Valley $19.95 (65425) 14.6% alcohol
Produced from fruit harvested from a single, high-altitude vineyard, this opaque, purple Malbec shows great depth and concentration. Lifted spicy notes mingle with notes of vanilla and toasty oak layered on ripe dark fruit and dried fruit aromas. The plush, ripe plummy fruit is enhanced by a noticeably fresh texture and accented with hints of exotic spice, pepper and subtle oak. The freshness of the wine complements the warmth lingering on the dry, fruity finish. Excellent value, this wine pours and pairs well with roast lamb. (Susan Desjardins)

Australia: Red Wine

Claymore ‘Walk on the Wild Side’ Shiraz 2013
Clare Valley, South Australia $21.95 (166983) 13.8% alcohol
Black/inky/opaque in the glass, this offers aromas of dark cherry/berry fruit and exotic spice. A fresh and lively spine of tang is delivered through a wave of red currant and pomegranate soon joined by ripe mulberry and black cherry providing balance and ripe fruit flavour. This is medium-plus bodied with smooth, creamy mouth feel and long finish. There are no rough edges on this seamless delightful Shiraz, just ripe juicy fruit, good balance, smooth texture and a lengthy delicious finish—what’s not to like? (Vic Harradine)

Thorn-Clark ‘Terra Barossa’ Shiraz 2012 

Barossa Valley, South Australia $16.95 (595306) 14.5% alcohol 

Spice, wood smoke and berry fruit on the nose, this dishes up a tangy racy stream of red currant and sour cherry streaking across the palate persisting through the crisp, clean, lip-smacking finish. It’s mid weight and nicely textured with a dry aftertaste. Pour alongside spaghetti Bolognese. (Vic Harradine)

New Zealand: White Wine

Villa Maria ‘Cellar Selection’ Sauvignon Blanc 2015
Marlborough $19.95 (974527) 13.0% alcohol
The aromas of this Marlborough classic simply hurtle from the glass—pungent grapefruit and lime, fresh herbs and a whiff of melon. Passion fruit, gooseberry and grapefruit pith liven the palate mingling with herbal notes through the clean, vibrant finish. Enjoy this well-made dry, medium-bodied, Sauvignon Blanc with goat cheese, artichoke and prosciutto pizza or with halibut garnished with lemon caper sauce. (Susan Desjardins)

Bulgaria: Red Wine

Saint Ilia Estate Merlot/Mavrud 2013
Thracian Valley Region $12.95 (433854) 13.5% alcohol
This interesting red blend—the international Merlot and the autochthonous Mavrud—punches well above the price, providing dark, ripe fruit, excellent balance, good structure and a lengthy, lip-smacking finish. Mixed spice, dark berry fruit and toasty notes on the nose, this bathes the palate with a balanced mouthful of black berry and dark cherry mingling with earthy notes and wisps of black licorice. It’s medium weight with good mouth feel and a fruit-forward, tangy aftertaste. Good to go now with steak, burger, grilled gourmet sausage, meat-laden pizza or beef fajitas. (Vic Harradine)

Germany: White Wine

St. Urbans-Hof ‘Nik Weis Selection - Urban’ Riesling 2014
Qualitätswein Mosel $18.95 (184051) 9.5% alcohol
This light-on-its-feet, entry-level Riesling is off-dry and pleasant. Aromas of floral notes and tropical fruit translate to a delicate stream of ripe pit fruit and pear joined by wisps of citrus on the palate and infusing the mid-length finish. Best sipped on its own, it can also pour nicely with lighter-styled appetizers. (Vic Harradine)

Italy: White Wine

Di Lenardo Pinot Grigio 2014
IGT Venezia-Giulia $16.95 (173328) 12.5% alcohol
Delightfully appealing floral and spice notes mingle with aromas of pear, melon and traces of mineral. Dry and light-mid-weight, it announces itself with a lovely seam of citrus, almost spritzy, acidity framing flavours of orchard fruit, melon and lemon zest. Vibrant and flavourful through the finish, it’s a versatile wine to enjoy on its own with appetizers or with white meats or fish. (Susan Desjardins)

Tenuta Roveglia ‘Vigne di Catullo’ Lugana ‘Riserva’ 2012
DOC Lugana $23.95 (437004) 13.0% alcohol
This was produced from fruit of old vines grown on a centuries-old estate; it’s a golden gem contrasting delicate floral and stone fruit aromas with clean, mineral notes. Dry and satin smooth, it’s remarkably lively, the fresh acidity underpinning concentrated, lush flavours of ripe orchard fruit and sweet citrus. It’s silky and sumptuous through the finish displaying a subtle note of toasted nut. This’ll pair well with creamy seafood pasta. (Susan Desjardins)

Italy: Red Wine

Umberto Cesari ‘Liano’ Sangiovese/Cabernet Sauvignon 2012
IGT Rubicone $27.95 (225086) 13.5% alcohol
This wine is deep ruby with an appealing earthy character on the nose and palate entwined with red berry, spice and vanilla. Dry and robust, it’s medium-full bodied and very well structured showing depth of flavour and refined oak aging. The tannins are supple and the texture fresh and lively while the finish is long and dry. Red berry and cassis flavours tantalize the palate garnished with notes of spice and vanilla. This is eminently drinkable, full of character and polished. (Susan Desjardins)

Luca Bosio Barbaresco 2011
DOCG Barbaresco $29.95 (437046) 14.0% alcohol
This Nebbiolo is semi-transparent in the glass. Fermented by native yeasts, it offers ethereal floral notes, earthiness and aromas of red fruit and spice. Dry, medium-full bodied and firmly structured, the gripping tannin adds definition to the tangy red berry and plum fruit. Lovely notes of chocolate and spice along with the earthiness persist through the extended, dry finish. An elegant, structured red, you can serve it now decanted with braised short ribs, or you can cellar. (Susan Desjardins)

Casale Del Bosco Brunello Di Montalcino 2010
DOCG Brunello Di Montalcino $39.95 (438572) 14.0% alcohol
Pipe tobacco, savory herbs and cedar aromas roll from this medium-bodied, nicely textured Brunello. It’s nicely structured and beautifully balanced with creamy smooth waves of flavour on the palate—dark cherry/berry fruit melding with roasted herbs, minerality, terrific tang and loads of mixed spice. It finishes with solid replays and good length along with plenty of charm—aerate/decant three to four hours before serving. Given its provenance, it’s quite good value. (Vic Harradine)

Ciacci Piccolomini D’Aragona Brunello Di Montalcino 2010
DOCG Brunello Di Montalcino $72.95 (1065) 14.5% alcohol
This cellar dweller is full of promise, although tight and taut for now; put your trust in the producer and the great 2010 vintage popping corks post 2019. Aromas of grilled herbs, tapenade and tobacco mingle with cherry on the nose. It’s quite linear on entry with sour cherry and spice to the fore. There are wisps of dark berry fruit, truffles and minty notes under a heavy cloak of tannin on the mid palate and finish. (Vic Harradine)

I Sodi Chianti Classico 2011
DOCG Chianti Classico $17.95 (435123) 14.5% alcohol
Ripe fruit to the fore, this approachable Tuscan classic also offers appealing aromas of vanilla, spice, earth and sweet floral notes. Dry, full bodied and velvety in texture, it marries supple tannin and pleasant acidity to frame the ripe flavours of plum and black cherry. Elusive notes of cedar and peppery spice accent and intermingle with dried herbs and a whiff of fennel seed on a warm, tangy finish. Approachable and velvety smooth on the palate, it’s a fine value. (Susan Desjardins)

La Mannella Brunello Di Montalcino 2010
DOCG Brunello Di Montalcino $47.95 (279083) 14.0% alcohol
Patience should be rewarded here—open 2019. Funky aromas of forest floor, medicinal notes and bouquet garni give way to a muscular, complex, fully textured river of ripe, juicy cherry and cassis robed in toasty oak, red licorice and roasted savoury herbs. This is firmly structured with still-evolving ripe tannin and provides plenty of reasons to put down with high expectations—it’s also very well-priced. (Vic Harradine)

Molino Di Sant’Antimo ‘Paolus’ Brunello Di Montalcino 2010
DOCG Brunello Di Montalcino $56.95 (339515) 14.5% alcohol
There’s plenty of depth and complexity here as it showcases aromas of dark chocolate, cherry and freshly turned earth. A broad swath of rich flavour envelop the palate—tangy red raspberry and juicy red cherry interwoven with black licorice, espresso roast and perceptible chalky tannin. There’s a solid line of excellent acidity, persistent purity of fruit, good balance and a long, fresh, lively aftertaste. You could pour now after a four-hour aeration/decant or wait until 2018 to open. (Vic Harradine)

Quercecchio Brunello Di Montalcino 2010
DOCG Brunello Di Montalcino $29.95 (438580) 14.5% alcohol
Aromas of earthy notes, savory dill weed and cherry/berry fruit interlace with gamy notes on the nose. It’s medium-plus weight with good mouth feel and a stream of sour cherry and dark berry fruit coating the palate along with wisps of baking spice and sweet vanilla. This could be tackled now—it’s underpinned by perceptible tannin—after a four-hour aeration/decant and poured with osso bucco. (Vic Harradine)

San Felice ‘Poggibano’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2011
IGT Toscana $19.95 (431171) 13.0% alcohol
Aromas of ripe berry and dried fruit tantalize the nose layered on notions of forest floor and smoky toast, vanilla and kitchen spice. The lively fresh texture and bright, clean red berry and cherry flavours complement the earthy qualities of the wine while traces of spice and notions of balsamic and coffee expand through the slightly bitter finish. This is a complex noteworthy Cab that’ll pair well with smoked duck breast, wild boar or venison. (Susan Desjardins)

Portugal: White Wine

• The following white wine is a blend of Avesso/Alvarinho/Arinto—the former and latter indigenous to Portugal’s Minho region while Alvarinho, a.k.a. Albariño in Spain, is the premium grape of the nearby white-wine region of Spain’s Rías Baixas. The fruit for this was grown at 470 m providing a wide, day-to-evening temperature variation ensuring the bracing acidity required for this to work with fish and sea food. Fruit was hand harvested and de-stemmed with some skin contact during fermentation in stainless steel tank then cold stabilized, but saw not a splinter of oak.

Casa Do Arrabalde Avesso/Alvarinho/Arinto 2014
Vinho Regional Minho $14.95 (429324) 12.0% alcohol
This is rich, ripe and delicious with pinpoint balance. Mineral notes, ripe orchard fruit and citrus notes trumpet an involved and delectable wash of pit fruit, apple and pear garnished with Meyer lemon and wisps of grapefruit. It’s medium bodied with generous texture and a lengthy, crisp, refreshing finish and aftertaste. It’s a natural with pan-seared, poached or grilled fish and sea food. It might taste better sunning on a bistro patio on the Algarve, but at this fabulous price, it’s great comfort if you’re not; stock up for the next few months. (Vic Harradine)

Portugal: Red Wine

Quinto do Portal Frontaria 2009

DOC Douro $13.95 (324533) 13.5% alcohol

You can rely on Portuguese wines, such as this blend of famous Port grapes—Tinto Roriz, Touriga Franca and Touriga Nacional—for excellent value. Offering appealing aromas of ripe dark fruit, spice and vanilla, this dry, medium-full bodied red is smooth and round in texture. Generous ripe fruit is nicely balanced by ripe tannin and fine acidity while French oak aging manifests in attractive hints of cinnamon toast, vanilla and a touch of pepper. Tasty and fruity through the finish, this is a well-made, crowd-pleasing red; stock up. (Susan Desjardins)

Spain: Red Wine

Abad Dom Bueno Crianza 2006 

DO Bierzo $14.95 (244699) 13.6% alcohol 

This is highly and heavenly aromatic—a bouquet of cedar, floral notes and spice-infused dark berry fruit waft over the glass of this well-aged ‘Mencia’, an ancient grape recently identified as being DNA-similar to the Portuguese, Jaen do Dão. There’s mid weight, nice texture, deft balance and depth here. The red cherry, black currant and ripe mulberry dazzle the palate and senses then dominate the long tangy aftertaste along with wisps of still-resolving tannin—aerate/decant a couple of hours before serving to ameliorate them. Terrific value here. (Vic Harradine) 

Baron De Ley ‘Reserva’ 2010

DOCa Rioja $21.95 (958868) 13.5% alcohol

Almost always marked by substantial oak, the smoke, oak and toast aromas dominate the nose of this Tempranillo Reserva. It spent 20 months in casks of new American oak. This wraps around the palate with a creamy smooth stream of black currant and ripe mulberry garnished with coconut, savory herbs and dark coffee—medium bodied and balanced with texture and charm. The price-quality ratio skews well in your favour. Aerate/decant a couple of hours before serving; it also wouldn’t hurt to wait until 2018… your call. (Vic Harradine)

Jardín De Lúculo 2012
DO Navarra $23.95 (438655) 13.5% alcohol
Alluring aromas of dark berry fruit, orange blossom, spice and sweet vanilla abound. Sourced from hand-picked, old-vine Garnacha, the fruit was cold-soaked 48 hours, wild-yeast fermented for 7 days with further 10 day maceration then aged 6 months in oak. A medium-bodied, nicely textured flow of red cherry and briary berry mingling with piquant spice and black licorice bathe the palate. It has good depth, a long finish and concentration, all underpinned by a generous helping of tannin. Aerate/decant three hours and serve with well-seasoned, grilled rack of lamb. (Vic Harradine)

Rioja Bordón Reserva 2009
DOCa Rioja $19.95 (194753) 14.0% alcohol
Primarily Tempranillo, there’s Garnacha and Mazuelo in here, as well—the fruit was aged 18 months in American oak. Aromas of red cherry, mixed spice and cedar open the floodgates to a nicely balanced fruit-forward wash of black berry, pomegranate and black plum entwined with spice and notes of truffles. It’s mid weight with good texture and a fruity finish showcasing balance and lip-smacking tang. Good to go now, pour with prawn and chorizo paella. (Vic Harradine)

Vizcarra ‘Senda Del Oro’ Roble 2012
DO Ribera del Duero $18.95 (331249) 14.0% alcohol
This is rich and luscious with persistent fruit flavour throughout, great balance and a long tang-laden aftertaste. 100% Tempranillo fruit was hand-picked from 15-year-old vines, gravity fed in the winery, undergoing malolactic conversion in barrel and aged 7 months in American and French oak. Aromas of mixed spice, bramble berry and dark, juicy Bing cherry waft easily. A seamless river of black currant and ripe mulberry garnished with notions of tar and balsamic coat the palate infusing the lengthy, mouth-watering aftertaste. Terrific value, pick up a few for drinking over the next two or so years. (Vic Harradine)

Upstream in winecurrent

Vintages Release: TBA 2016

• For the following Fielding wine, estate-grown fruit was gently pressed, cold settled in stainless steel tank before barrel fermentation with indigenous and commercial yeast then aged on its lees nine months in French oak barrel with one-third undergoing malolactic conversion before barrel selection, filtration and bottling. It offers great promise to the patient wine lover with optimum drinking late 2016 to 2019.

   
Fielding Estate Winery Chardonnay 2014
VQA Beamsville Bench $21.95 (355842) 12.5% alcohol
Aromas of toasty notes, baking spice and orchard fruit herald a refreshing flow of Granny Smith apple and lemon curd interweaving with oaky bits and peach skin on the palate. This is mid weight with good mouth feel and a crisp lip-smacking finish showcasing excellent acidity. It spent nine months on stirred lees in French oak barrel then subjected to meticulous barrel selection before bottling. Good to go now, but will improve with further bottle age, after aeration and poured with roast chicken, veal or pork with all the fixings. (Vic Harradine)

New in Vintages

  
Fielding Pinot Gris 2014

VQA Niagara Peninsula $21.95 (251108) 12.5% alcohol

Winemaker Richie Roberts crafted yet another cool-climate beauty in this, a challenging vintage. Floral, piquant spice, honeydew melon and orchard fruit aromas herald a palate-bathing wash of juicy, fresh fruit flavours—green apple, poached pear, Key lime and lemony tang. It broadens out on the back palate with softer pit fruit—peach and yellow plum. It’s medium weight with good texture and deft balance unfolding into a crisp and lip-smacking aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)

New in the LCBO

  
Château des Charmes ‘Estate – Barrel Fermented’ Chardonnay 2014
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $13.95 (81653) 13.0% alcohol
Citrus, green apple and pit fruit aromas introduce this medium-bodied, generously textured, creamy-smooth beauty. Tropical fruit, apple and poached pear flavours bathe the palate and dazzle the senses robed in baking spice—this aged 9 months in oak—and framed by gentle citrus notes. It finishes with generous replays on the lengthy aftertaste. This is wonderful to pour on its own or pair with roast chicken, pork or pasta in cream sauce. It’s terrific value, as well. (Vic Harradine)

  
Château des Charmes ‘Estate’ Pinot Noir 2012
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $16.95 (454967) 13.1% alcohol
Estate fruit for this sleek, polished Pinot was sustainably grown and aged six to nine months in seasoned, French oak barrel. Grilled herbs and baking spice aromas provide segue for a light-on-its-feet wash of herb-laced pie cherry and pomegranate bathing the palate garnished with a solid line of mouth-watering acidity. This is light-medium-bodied with a lip-smacking finish and aftertaste. Pour with smoked duck breasts or pasta in tomato sauce. (Vic Harradine)

  
Fielding Estate Winery Riesling 2013
VQA Niagara Peninsula $15.95 (146761) 10.5% alcohol
Piquant spice, citrus and flinty/mineral notes on the nose introduce a delightful stream of sweet- and tang-laden flavour with lime cordial and lemon chiffon pie to the fore. This is light-medium bodied with satin-smooth mouth feel and a finish that lingers longer than in-laws, only this is really enjoyable. Many readers will love sipping this on its own or poured with spicy Asian cuisine like pad Thai, tandoori chicken or chicken Masala. This is very good value. (Vic Harradine)

  
Long Weekend Wine Co. Chardonnay/Pinot Gris 2014
VQA Niagara Peninsula $12.95 (427310) 12.5% alcohol
Delicate, perfumed aromas of floral notes, mixed spice and orchard fruit introduce a lovely, light-on-its-feet flow of nectarine, spice, yellow plum and racy citrus on the palate, persisting through the refreshing, mouth-watering, balanced finish and aftertaste. Don’t necessarily wait for a weekend, this pours well with lighter-styled cuisine, appetizers, fish and white meat dishes any day of the week. This is exceptional value. (Vic Harradine)

New in Winery Only

• Order the following wine by the case (can be a mixed case with other wine offered on the winery website) for daily home or office delivery online from Fielding or pick up a bottle or more from the winery door at 4020 Locust Lane, Beamsville ON. 

• You’ll find a number of Fielding wines throughout this and upcoming newsletters. This family-owned and managed winery gathers steam, going from strength to strength—they were twice voted, ‘One of Canada’s Top Ten Wineries’. Fielding produces a broad portfolio of consistently quality and value-driven wines gaining recognition and numerous medals. Curtis Fielding was voted ‘Grape King’ in 2012—awarded for viticulture excellence. Heidi Fielding is the effervescent Sales and Marketing guru while winemaker extraordinaire, Richie Roberts, never misses a step. Heidi, Curtis and Richie have all been recipients of a ‘40 Under 40’ award, while Heidi and Curtis have been finalists in ‘Young Farmers in Canada’.

  
Fielding Estate Winery Syrah 2013
VQA Niagara Peninsula $39.95 13.5% alcohol
Involved aromas of espresso roast, exotic spice, roasted herbs and rich, ripe dark cherry/berry fruit jump from the glass. This coats the palate with a seamless gusher of gorgeous flavour—black currant and sweet ripe mulberry mingling with wisps of cassis and bittersweet chocolate. It’s medium-plus bodied with persistent purity of fruit, über creamy-smooth texture and a complex, lingering aftertaste. This is balanced, structured and oozing with charisma and appeal. (Vic Harradine)

New in Private Order

• Order the following two wines, as well as those reviewed in the previous February 13, 2016 newsletter, by the case for home, restaurant or office delivery in Ontario from Nokhrin Wines or Email This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it., if in the GTA phone 416 704-8617.

Champagne

Jean Pernet Blanc de Blancs ‘Grand Cru - Réserve’ Brut Multi-Vintage
AOC Champagne, France $51.95 12.0% alcohol
This 100% Chardonnay gem delivers in spades—fruit sourced only from Grand Cru vineyards rested on lees for 30 months after fermentation. Aromas of baking bread morph into buttered toast on the nose. A fine-bead mousse carries striking flavours of sugared, grilled grapefruit, crisp green apple and notions of peach skin. It’s mouth-watering and refreshing throughout with good structure, excellent balance and an incredibly long aftertaste. Given all the attributes, it’s very good value Champagne with the price-quality ratio skewed well in your favour. (Vic Harradine)

Jean Pernet ‘Tradition’ Brut Multi-Vintage
AOC Champagne, France $40.00 12.0% alcohol
This nectarous blend—45% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay, 15% Meunier—rested 24 months on its lees before disgorgement. Pinpoint bubbles form generous mousse in the glass carrying aromas of nectarine, ripe pear and wisps of caramel apple. It’s creamy and lush on the palate with flavours of peach cobbler, glazed apricot and notions of ginger juxtaposed with vivid lemon acidity. It finishes balanced, crisp and refreshing. This is fabulous Champagne with a quality-price ratio skewed well in your favour. (Vic Harradine)

Cheers, Vic and Susan