Winecurrent
February 13, 2016 Newsletter

Newsletter highlights include:

  • Exceptional-value wine Exceptional Value!  – 8 of 57 wines reviewed meet the strict quality-price guidelines and all are easily identified throughout the newsletter with prices from $13.95 to $29.95. What strict guidelines? Click here.
  • 5-star Wine – 5 wines rang the 5-star bell – Henry of Pelham ‘Reserve’ Baco Noir 2013 @ $24.95 under Ontario: Red Wine; Glaetzer ‘Bishop’ Shiraz 2013 @ $39.95 under Australia: Red Wine; Marqués de Murrieta ‘Finca Ygay - Reserva’ 2010 @ $27.95 under Spain: Red Wine; Rosehall Run ‘JCR - Rosehall Vineyard’ Chardonnay 2013 @ $29.95 under New in Ontario Wineries.
  • Susan Selects – Huff Estates ‘Cuvée Peter F. Huff’ 2010 with 4½ stars @ $40.00 under Feature: Ontario Award Winners; Cicchitti ‘Gran Reserva’ Malbec 2008 with 4½ stars @ $26.95 under Argentina: Red Wine; Waimea Pinot Gris 2012 with 4½ stars @ $18.95 under New Zealand: White Wine.
  • Vic Picks – Henry of Pelham ‘Reserve’ Baco Noir 2013 with 5 stars @ $24.95 under Ontario: Red Wine; Buena Vista ‘The Count Founder’s Red’ 2013 with 4½ stars @ $24.95 under California: Red Wine; Heartland Shiraz 2013 with 4½ stars @ $18.95 under Australia: Red Wine; Marqués de Murrieta ‘Finca Ygay - Reserva’ 2010 with 5 stars @ $27.95 under Spain: Red Wine; Rosehall Run ‘JCR - Rosehall Vineyard’ Chardonnay 2013 with 5 stars @ $29.95 under New in Ontario Wineries.

 

Access the LCBO store nearest you with stock of any wine with an LCBO product number by clicking on the number shown in brackets in wine reviews then clicking on select stores and entering your postal code. The number of bottles available in each store near you is displayed. For Vintages Release wines, stock should be displayed the Friday before a Saturday release, some stores post earlier. For LCBO-listed (not in Vintages) wines, it should closely reflect stock in stores, updated every 24 hours. However, it’s always best to phone first.

Vintages Release: February 20, 2016

Feature: Ontario Award Winning Wines

****1/2 drink or cellar Oh Canada!
Huff Estates ‘Cuvée Peter F. Huff’ 2010
VQA Prince Edward County $40.00 (198754) 12.5% alcohol
This vintage-dated, traditionally crafted, Pinot Noir/Chardonnay blend is a high-calibre offering with enchanting aromas of rising bread, dried apple, citrus and a whiff of tropical flowers. There are intense palate flavours of pungent lemon zest and green apple, minerality and a hint of fresh-cut herbs. An elegant mousse persists with time on the lees showcased in subtle notes of toasted nut and delightful creamy texture. It’s dry and mouth-watering on the finish. Serve this as you welcome guests. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink or cellar Oh Canada!
Creekside Estate ‘Queenston Road’ Pinot Noir 2014
VQA St. David’s Bench $18.95 (415877) 12.5% alcohol
Beet red in the glass, this classic cool-climate Pinot Noir layers lovely earthy, cedar scents on field berry and cherry accented with sweet vanilla and spice aromas. The keen acidity and perceptible tannins are a great frame for the tangy red berry fruit while earthy beetroot and mineral character add depth on the palate. It’s medium bodied, with a long, dry, fruity finish—this is excellent value. (Susan Desjardins)

The Main Release

Ontario: White Wine

**** drink now Oh Canada!
Flat Rock ‘Unplugged’ Chardonnay 2014
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $16.95 (68015) 12.5% alcohol
This unoaked Chardonnay is a winner with clean aromas of tree fruit, citrus and mineral notes finding their way seamlessly to the palate along with vivacious texture and notions of grapefruit pith and lemon zest. It’s vibrant and stylish with lots of verve and a nice long refreshing finish. This is a go-to white for seafood, fish and white meats. (Susan Desjardins)

Ontario: Red Wine

***** drink or cellar Exceptional Value!  Oh Canada!
Henry of Pelham ‘Reserve’ Baco Noir 2013

VQA Ontario $24.95 (461699) 14.0% alcohol

Connoisseurs, collectors and wine-lovers like you and me eagerly await each release of this with cult-like enthusiasm—it never disappoints and this one is special. Lifted aromas of spice, charred toast and red and black cherry provide segue to a mid-full bodied gusher of black currant and black raspberry interlaced with dark chocolate-dipped black cherries. It’s creamy smooth, nicely structured and deftly balanced with a lingering aftertaste of piquant spice, blueberry pie filling and racy red cherry. It rested 18 months in one- and two-year-old American oak barrel, all of which is integrated. Pick up a few, drinking now to 2022. (Vic Harradine)

Okanagan Valley: White Wine

**** drink or cellar Oh Canada!
See Ya Later Ranch Pinot Gris 2014
VQA Okanagan Valley $17.95 (263699) 13.0% alcohol
This was deftly composed with a dash of Gewürztraminer. A golden gem, this had partial barrel fermentation and offers lifted floral notes, aromas of stone and tropical fruits and enticing nuances of spice on the nose. Dry, rich and silky on the palate, you’ll enjoy the round ripe flavours of peach, pear and honeydew melon, sprinkled with an appropriate measure of spice and toast derived from well-integrated oak. The harmony of citrus acidity, spice and ripe fruit is delicious throughout. (Susan Desjardins)

California: White Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Raymond ‘Reserve Selection’ Chardonnay 2013
Napa Valley $24.95 (716928) 14.5% alcohol
Aromas of baking spice and citrus unleash a full-bodied, full-bore flavoured river of apple, ripe pear and white nectarine coating the plate, infusing the lengthy finish. It’s creamy smooth and layers on pleasing nutty/toasty notes on the balanced, mouth-watering aftertaste. Good to go now and pours well with lobster bisque or roast chicken. (Vic Harradine)

California: Red Wine

• The Sonoma County fruit for the following wine—mostly Merlot and Zinfandel—was fermented separately and spent 11 months in Hungarian, French and American oak before blending and bottling. Founded in 1857, Buena Vista is touted as California’s oldest premium winery. Buena Vista and many other wineries are now owned and managed by Jean-Charles Boisset, member of the influential Boisset family of France and President of Boisset Family Estates, U.S.. The Raymond Chardonnay reviewed above is also part of that U.S. group. Jean-Charles is one-half of the wine-world’s #1 power couple being married to Gina Gallo, über-talented Gallo winemaker and granddaughter of the late, Julio, of E and J Gallo.

****1/2 drink or cellar
Buena Vista ‘The Count Founder’s Red’ 2013
Sonoma County $24.95 (382267) 14.5% alcohol
Wood smoke, roasted herbs and cherry aromas swirl from the glass. It’s medium-plus bodied with generous mouth feel and a structured stream of palate-coating flavour—cassis and bramble berry garnished with dark bittersweet chocolate, baking spice and wisps of tar. This is rich, luscious and deftly balanced with persistent purity of fruit and lengthy aftertaste. It’s good to go now and on to 2020. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Cambria ‘Julia’s Vineyard’ Pinot Noir 2012
Santa Barbara, Central Coast $29.95 (980482) 13.5% alcohol
Aromas of savory herbs and sandalwood announce a wide swath of flavours on the palate—pie cherry, ripe bramble berry and blueberry compote garnished with gamy notes. Medium bodied with decent texture and good nerve and verve, this is balanced and beautiful with a dry, crisp and mouth-watering aftertaste. Pour with smoked, grilled duck breasts and mango chutney. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Cannonball Cabernet Sauvignon 2013
California $24.95 (291666) 13.8% alcohol
Cedar, lilac, mocha and vanilla aromas abound. It coats the palate with a concentrated flow of red and black cherry entwined with sweet milk chocolate persisting through the finish. It’s full bodied, creamy smooth and fruit laden. No fruit bomb, though, as there’s good moderating acidity and fine-grained supple tannin for structure. Pour with smoked grilled back ribs mopped with spicy barbeque sauce. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now
Faust Cabernet Sauvignon 2012
Napa Valley $129.95 1500 mL (377242) 14.5% alcohol
Espresso roast, dark berry fruit and mixed spice aromas herald a devilishly delicious, palate-coating wash of cassis, sweet vanilla and kirsch liqueur robed in excellent tang and soft, ripe tannin. This magnum is full bodied with good mouth feel and a lengthy, balanced aftertaste showcasing red berry tang and ripe black cherry. Pour with roast beef, stew or grilled strip loin. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
McManis Zinfandel 2014
California $19.95 (256735) 13.5% alcohol
Aromas of spiced, savoury herbs mingling with red and dark berry fruit set the table for a smorgasbord of flavour—briary berry and dark cherry interwoven with sweet vanilla and milk chocolate. It’s mid weight with good balance and texture finishing with ripe fruit and tang on the lengthy aftertaste. Good to go now with burgers, steak, pizza or lasagna. (Vic Harradine)

• After harvest, 100% Pinot Noir, single-vineyard fruit in the following wine was hand sorted, de-stemmed and cold soaked before being fermented—48% in barrel with balance in open-top tanks. It then underwent 100% malolactic conversion before aging 12 months in French oak barrels.

****1/2 drink or cellar
Sanctuary ‘Bien Nacido Vineyard’ Pinot Noir 2012
Santa Maria Valley $34.95 (157248) 14.6% alcohol
Look for loads of fresh red cherry/berry aromas on the nose along with roasted herbs and wisps of forest floor. It bathes the palate with a satin-smooth wash of red cherry and fresh strawberry robed in good acidity and notions of passion fruit and vanilla. This is deftly balanced with persistent purity of fruit, structure and lingering aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)

Oregon: Red Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Rex Hill Pinot Noir 2012
Willamette Valley $49.95 (275735) 14.0% alcohol
Inky opaque, this is a complex, weighty Pinot Noir offering aromas of delicate floral notes, intense fruit, subtle notions of earth and mineral plus a whiff of smoky toast. Black cherry and raspberry fruit rush to the fore, layered over the earthiness and underpinned by supple, well-defined tannins and refined acidity. Toasty, savoury notes add intensity through the long, warm, fruity finish. This will cellar well or may be matched now to grilled venison or beef tenderloin medallions. (Susan Desjardins)

Washington State: Red Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Desert Wind Merlot 2013
Wahluke Slope, Columbia Valley $25.95 (465559) 14.5% alcohol
The Fries family estate and plantings in Oregon are complemented by this Washington State property producing their Bordeaux-style reds. Fruit ripeness comes through in the intense aromas of black cherry and plum complemented by floral notes and earth. The fruit flavours explode on the palate, consorting with notes of fig, cocoa, toast and spice. Showing deft balance and a refined, well structured, medium-full body, it finishes long and dry. Pair with veal chops and truffle-infused wild mushroom sauce. (Susan Desjardins)

Argentina: Red Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Cicchitti ‘Gran Reserva’ Malbec 2008
Mendoza $26.95 (155713) 14.0% alcohol
Sourced from old vines, this wine is certainly not showing its age in the opaque, inky hue. There’s lovely complexity on the nose—floral notes, mint and cedar, ripe black fruit, exotic spice and toast. Big and powerful with focused flavours of black berry, cherry and plum, the ripe tannins have evolved nicely while fine acidity maintains the freshness of the fruit. The layers of flavour carry through the palate, notions of sweet spice, subtle dried herbs and a touch of mocha dressing up the plush, dry finish. It’s a powerhouse to serve now with grilled meats and can be cellared further. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink or cellar
La Posta ‘Armando’ Bonarda 2014
Mendoza $14.95 (261586) 13.5% alcohol
The dense, dark hue is a good indicator of the concentration of the flavours in this full-bodied red. Red berry and plum mingle with aromas of earth and fragrant herbs on the nose, while the palate offers round, smooth texture and well-managed balance of juicy red and black berry, supple tannins, fine acidity and well-integrated oak. Long, dry and flavourful on the toasty, chocolate finish, it’s great value and a wine for sharing with friends over a hearty stew or meat-based pizza. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink or cellar
Los Clop ‘Reserva’ Malbec 2010
Mendoza $18.95 (186650) 14.5% alcohol
This attractive Malbec has an earthy character matched to fresh aromas of red and black berry and subtle toast. The flavours of plum and berry are intense with fresh acidity and finely-wrought tannins bring balance. There’s toasty oak and notions of spice and pepper through the dry finish adding further interest to this medium-full bodied Malbec. Enjoy with robust red meat dishes. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink or cellar
Trapiche ‘Fincas las Palmas’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2012
Mendoza $16.95 (143206) 14.5% alcohol
There’s good depth to Cabernet with its aromas of blackberry and cassis, vanilla and spice, cedar and roasted red pepper. On the palate you’ll find ripe round flavours of cassis replaying with the vanilla, spice and sweet oak. Ripe tannins contribute to the structure while there’s tangy warmth on the smooth fruity finish. A really fine value. (Susan Desjardins)

Chile: White Wine

**** drink now
Loma Larga Sauvignon Blanc 2014
Casablanca Valley $14.95 (283630) 13.0% alcohol
This pale-straw hued Sauvignon Blanc benefits from a broad day/night temperature range and cool, ocean breezes in the Casablanca vineyards. The fruit ripens while juicy acidity is retained. Aromas combine floral and tropical, delicate vegetal/herbal accents and clean bright citrus. Dry, light-mid weight, the zesty texture on the palate highlights the refreshing flavours of passion fruit and citrus mingling with a touch of canned asparagus. Cleansing, fruity and flavourful on the finish, you’ll want to match this with artichoke, prosciutto and goat cheese pizza. (Susan Desjardins)

Chile: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
Caliterra ‘Tributo’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2013
Colchagua Valley $16.95 (205567) 14.0% alcohol
The earthy nature of this wine is on display on the nose—tapenade, dried herbs, autumnal notes—complemented by sweet ripe dark fruit and toasty oak. Dry, full bodied, this is a lively, well-balanced red with supple tannins and fine acidity. The earthy qualities replay, while lashings of black plum, cassis and currant caress the palate through the spicy warm finish. Enjoy with barbequed meats. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink or cellar
Palo Alto Winemaker’s Selection 2013
Maule Valley $17.95 (376236) 14.5% alcohol
Inky and opaque, this Cabernet brings on the dark berry fruits—cassis compote and blueberry pie entwine with notes of spice and cigar box. Supple and approachable with well-integrated oak, the palate’s awash with ripe black fruits complemented by attractive savoury vegetal notes. This is well balanced with a lengthy warm flavourful finish. It’s versatile enough to serve with all manner of red meats or charcuterie. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink or cellar
Undurraga ‘Sibaris Reserva Especial’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2012
Maipo Valley $15.95 (301200) 14.0% alcohol
Offering attractive nuances of pepper and mint, it teases the nose with smoky toast and pleasing blackberry and cassis aromas. It’s dry, full bodied and packed with plush, ripe fruit balanced by supple tannins and subtle acidity. Spice, pepper, vanilla, toast and hints of dark chocolate add to your tasting pleasure with a nice tangy finish. This is an approachable crowd-pleaser offering great value. (Susan Desjardins)

Australia: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
3 Rings Shiraz 2013

Barossa Valley $18.95 (15495) 15.2% alcohol

There’s a lot of wine here for the price. Huge dark fruit—blackberry and blueberry—interweave with cassis and green pepper notes. This is one solid Shiraz with fine tannin underlying all the berry flavour with a peppery, dried-fruit finish. Pour with lamb burgers or lamb chops for a lip-smacking treat. (Julie Stock)

• The Custodian – “For a long time, d'Arenberg has been considered a custodian (the keeper) of Grenache, with our constant allegiance to this variety. The name has nothing to do with the janitors as many in the USA think. The Grenache vines have been on the property as long as if not longer than any other variety. d'Arenberg makes eight wines with a large percentage of Grenache, this being the first 100% Grenache, commenced with in 1994. It was only fitting that the name "Custodian" was employed for this wine.” (courtesy d’Arenberg)

**** drink or cellar
d’Arenberg ‘The Custodian’ Grenache 2012
McLaren Vale, South Australia $19.95 (713040) 14.6% alcohol
d’Arenberg is a member of the exclusive (only 12 family-owned wineries) Australia’s First Families of Wine. Lifted aromas of piquant spice, black licorice and dark berry fruit foretell a tang-laden stream of pie cherry, black and red currant interlaced with red licorice and savory herbs bathing the palate infusing the finish and aftertaste. There’s purity of fruit, good acidity and firm structure brought about by a solid tannin underpinning. Aerate/decant three hours before pouring. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Elderton ‘High Altitude’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2013

Barossa Valley, South Australia $19.95 (408989) 13.5% alcohol

Baking spice, cassis and dark briary berry aromas herald a tangy spray of red currant and pie cherry mingling with savoury herb and spice aromas. It’s medium-full bodied with good mouth feel and a steady flow of red fruit tang through the dry, crisp and refreshing finish and aftertaste. Pair with spaghetti Bolognese or Swiss steak. (Vic Harradine)

• Ben Glaetzer is one of the very top tier, down-under winemakers. All fruit for the following wine was sourced from the Ebenezer district in northern Barossa from vines ranging 35 to 120-years of age—the older plantings, originally bush vines, have now been trellis trained. Wine was aged 16 months in new and seasoned French hogsheads (approximately 300 L) before bottling.

***** drink or cellar
Glaetzer ‘Bishop’ Shiraz 2013
Barossa Valley, South Australia $39.95 (627869) 15.0% alcohol
The 2013 vintage was dry and low-yielding, producing this dense and concentrated gem. Aromas of dark blackberry and mixed spice flecked with cracked, black pepper, tar and fennel leap from the black, inky Shiraz. It’s structured, full bodied and fully textured with a bold, brash and weighty flow of red and black currant garnished with rich ripe mulberry mingling with spice and luscious black plum on the palate persisting through the long balanced aftertaste—a great wine and very good value. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Heartland Shiraz 2013
Langhorne Creek, South Australia $18.95 (661934) 14.5% alcohol
Heartland co-owner and winemaker, Ben Glaetzer, works his magic with this entry-level Shiraz that’s fruit-forward and value-packed. Rich aromas of black briary berry, peppery spice and espresso roast unleash a balanced, creamy-textured stream of blackberry and cassis robed in charred toast and dark bittersweet chocolate. It’s medium-plus bodied with good structure, balance, persistent purity of fruit and lingering lip-smacking aftertaste. Pour with grilled rack of lamb. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar Exceptional Value!
Jip Jip Rocks Shiraz 2013
Padthaway, South Australia $16.95 (673897) 14.5% alcohol
This is rich and luscious hitting all the high notes. Savory herbs, mixed spice and field berry fruit aromas dominate the nose. It’s full bodied with good mouth feel and a wide-ranging flavour palette—black currant, pie cherry and cassis melding with sweet vanilla and peppery notes. The finish lingers, balanced and mouth-watering good. Pour with steak, burgers or grilled gourmet sausage. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Mollydooker ‘The Maitre d’’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2014
McLaren Vale/Langhorne Creek, South Australia $29.95 (246629) 16.0% alcohol
This is densely packed with ripe, fruit flavour and firm structure and framed in racy acidity. Aromas of spiced black plum and red cherry aromas entwine with grilled herbs. Spice box, racy pie cherry and ripe black currant roll over the palate in endless waves, full bodied and generously textured. The spice and fruit flavour replay on the lengthy, lip-smacking finish and aftertaste. Aerate/decant for 2 hours before serving. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Penny’s Hill ‘Cracking Black’ Shiraz 2012
McLaren Vale, South Australia $21.95 (396473) 14.5% alcohol
The ‘Cracking Black’ refers not to pepper, but a particular type of clay soil in the region. Espresso roast, mocha and savory/earthy aromas on the nose transcend into a tangy stream of red and black currant and savory passion fruit on the palate. It’s medium-weight with a racy mouth-watering aftertaste. This is classic cooler-climate McLaren Vale Shiraz. Pour with lamb chops and roasted root veggies. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Peter Lehmann ‘Layers’ Shiraz/Tempranillo/Mourvèdre/Grenache 2012
Barossa Valley, South Australia $17.95 (138883) 14.5% alcohol
An involved nose of black licorice, dark coffee, cherry and pipe tobacco aromas introduce a nicely balanced and structured stream of red and black currant, roasted herbs and anise on the palate. It’s medium-full bodied with good mouth feel and a savory-tinged finish. There’s some chalky tannin on the aftertaste easily ameliorated with a two-hour aeration/decant. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Tahbilk Cabernet Sauvignon 2012
Nagambie Lakes, Central Victoria $22.95 (138818) 13.5% alcohol
Tahbilk is a member of the exclusive (only 12 family-owned wineries) Australia’s First Families of Wine. This is a lovely Cab showcasing firm structure, dark ripe fruit and great balance. Aromas of black licorice, cedar and dark berry fruit replay on the palate with touches of mint and savory herbs. It’s good weight and nicely textured with notions of dark chocolate and ripe black plum on the aftertaste. Aerate/decant a couple of hours before serving. (Vic Harradine)

New Zealand: White Wine

****1/2 drink now
Greywacke Sauvignon Blanc 2014
Marlborough $23.95 (164228) 13.0% alcohol
This is intensely perfumed with the scents of passion fruit, citrus and stone fruit along with whiffs of herbs. This juicy, medium-bodied, nicely textured white is dry and tangy with a backbone of vibrant acidity wrapping around clean flavours of passion fruit, lemon balm and citrus zest. It delivers a long, pungent, refreshing finish—just fabulous. You’d be wacke not to pick up a few bottles. (Susan Desjardins)

• The following winery, Kono, is part of a group of companies owned by Wakatū, a corporation based in Nelson, New Zealand with approximately 4,000 shareholders who descend from the original Māori land owners of the Nelson, Tasman and Golden Bay Regions. Wakatū are successful, having grown their assets from $11 million in 1977 to its present value of over $260 million. Kono Winery is certified sustainable with a professed strong spiritual connection to the land and the things they grow.

****1/2 drink or cellar
Kono Sauvignon Blanc 2014
Marlborough, South Island $19.95 (441394) 13.0% alcohol
This leaps from the glass with wild abandon and lifted aromas of passion fruit, asparagus and citrus. It caresses the palate with waves of lemon curd and juicy tang entwined with grilled pineapple and honeydew melon. It’s balanced and beautiful with good weight, generous mouth feel and a crisp, mouth-watering finish and aftertaste—this is very good value. Pour with pan-seared fish or grilled sea food. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Waimea Pinot Gris 2012
Nelson $18.95 (408682) 14.0% alcohol
Showing remarkable weight and intensity, this jewel is replete with floral and spice notes, stone fruit and honeydew melon aromas. The ripe stone and citrus fruit flavours flow across the palate in a silky wave underpinned by refined acidity and minerality. It’s fruity and spicy through the lingering finish. This impressive medium-bodied Gris is a terrific value. (Susan Desjardins)

Austria: White Wine

• The Roman numeral ‘V’ on the label of the following Grüner Veltliner marks current winemaker, Laurenz Maria Moser, as 5th-generation family winemaker—he now produces only Grüner. Premium fruit was sourced in the renowned Kamptal region in Lower Austria where cool winds provide a significant daytime-evening temperature difference allowing fully ripened grapes and ripe fruit flavours while still retaining their signature bracing acidity.

****1/2 drink now
Laurenz ‘V. Friendly’ Grüner Veltliner 2013
Kamptal, Austria $19.95 (66225) 12.5% alcohol
Fruit was stainless-steel fermented and saw no oak. Flinty/mineral aromas mingle with floral notes preceding a medium-bodied, generously textured wash of delectable flavour with lemon pie filling, Key lime and ripe, sweet peach to the fore. It’s good value and charming with a lingering aftertaste of ripe fruit, lip-smacking acidity and wisps of peppery spice. There’s also a discernible Wow factor—pick up a few. (Vic Harradine)

Italy: White Wine

**** drink now
Marchesi Di Barolo ‘Gavi Di Gavi’ Cortese 2014
DOCG Cortese di Gavi $19.95 (155382) 12.5% alcohol
The Cortese grapes were gently pressed then fermented and aged in stainless steel or concrete vats without any oak. Aromas of lemon blossom and pineapple provide segue for a tangy, crisp and refreshing, laser-like line of racy citrus and grilled pineapple streaking across the palate infusing the lip-smacking finish. Pour with all manner of fish and sea food, grilled, poached or pan-seared. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink now
Teruzzi & Puthod ‘Vernaccia Di San Gimignano’ 2014
DOC Vernaccia Di San Gimignano $16.95 (316976) 12.5% alcohol
This light-on-its-feet offering dishes up a nose of citrus, passion fruit and flinty/stony minerality. These replay on the palate along with herbaceous notes. It’s nicely textured with excellent tang on the mouth-watering finish and aftertaste. Pour with sushi, ceviche or freshly shucked oysters. (Vic Harradine)

Italy: Red Wine

***1/2 drink or cellar
Michele Chiarlo ‘Le Orme’ Barbera D’Asti Superiore 2013
DOCG Barbera D’Asti $16.95 (265413) 13.5% alcohol
Lively and racy, this Barbera dishes up aromas of red and dark berry fruit and spice prior to streaking across the palate with tang-laden red currant and pie cherry. It’s medium bodied with decent texture and a lip-smacking finish. Pour with pasta in tomato-based sauce. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Santa Margherita Chianti Classico 2011

DOCG Chianti Classico $19.95 (91694) 13.5% alcohol

Gorgeous aromas of spice box, dark coffee and truffle announce a light-on-its-feet flow of palate-bathing red and black currant garnished with herbs. Perceptible tannin dominates the dry finish and aftertaste. Aerate/decant three hours serving with meat-laden pizza or pasta in tomato sauce. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Luigi Righetti Valpolicella Classico Superiore Ripasso 2012
DOC Valpolicella Classico Superiore $20.95 (575787) 14.0% alcohol
Mocha, earthy notes and cigar box aromas herald a juicy, lively and balanced gusher of dark cherry and blackberry fruit entwined with juicy red currant and dark bittersweet chocolate on the palate. This has structure, great fruit flavour, welcomed mouth-watering acidity and a long dry aftertaste. It’s good value and worth the effort to find and pick up a few. (Vic Harradine)

Portugal: Red Wine

***1/2 drink now
Montefino ‘Tinto Reserva’ 2007
Vinho Regional Alentejano $16.95 (165159) 13.0% alcohol
Aromas and flavours of cooked fruit—black plum compote and strawberry jam mingle with tapenade, savory herbs and mixed spice on the nose following through to the palate persisting through aftertaste. Almost ten-years old, this is a drink-me-now proposition for mature-wine lovers. (Vic Harradine)

Spain: Red Wine

• Hand-harvested fruit for the following wine was sourced from ungrafted, +30-year-old Mourvèdre vines at 700 m in limestone/sandy soil. Thought by most to be indigenous to Spain, Monastrell grapes are known in France as Mourvèdre. Take note; the French not often part of the ‘most’ that think it indigenous to Spain. Jumilla plantings are now 85% Monastrell; it’s a grape that’s quite drought resistant, thriving in the dry, hot, lengthy, sunny summers of the Jumilla region.

**** drink now Exceptional Value!
Bodegas Juan Gil ‘Honoro Vera’ Monastrell 2014
DO Jumilla $13.95 (167684) 14.0% alcohol
Red cherry, leafy and gamy aromas on the nose, it coats the palate with a rich, creamy torrent of lively, juicy pie cherry interwoven with black raspberry jam along with notes of earthiness. It’s medium-plus weight, entirely unoaked with a generous mouth feel and well balanced, lengthy finish. The price-quality balance tips well in your favour—stock up and enjoy over the next two years. (Vic Harradine)

***** cellar Exceptional Value!
Marqués de Murrieta ‘Finca Ygay - Reserva’ 2010
DOCa Rioja $27.95 (209148) 14.0% alcohol
This is elegant, structured and quite out of the ordinary. Cedar, nutty notes and baking spice aromas provide segue for a powerful surge of ripe mulberry and dark Bing cherry interlaced with toasty notes, rich, luscious dark berry fruit framed by good acidity underpinned by ripe, still-evolving tannin. Hand-harvested fruit spent 21 months in American oak barrel—6 months in new then racked into seasoned. There’s persistent purity of fruit through the lengthy finish and plenty of charm. Pop corks 2019 to 2028. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Bodegas Muriel ‘Gran Reserva’ 2005
DOCa Rioja $28.95 (984187) 13.5% alcohol
Complex aromas of toasty oak, smoke, pipe tobacco and raisin open a light-on-its-feet wash of red cherry and pomegranate robed in spice and framed with good berry fruit tang and acidity. There’s a fairly lengthy, dry aftertaste. Pour this now after a two hour aeration/decant alongside leg of lamb or roast beef. (Vic Harradine)

Upstream in winecurrent

LCBO Release: February, 2016

**** drink now Exceptional Value!
Torres ‘San Valentin.’ 2014
DO Catalunya, Spain $13.95 (673541) 14.0% alcohol
Aromas of fig, dates and exotic incense set the stage for a mid-weight, creamy smooth mouthful of dark Bing cherry and bramble berry bathing the palate infusing the balanced and beautiful, lengthy aftertaste. It’s nicely structured with soft, fine-grained tannin along with crisp acidity and fruit galore. This is good to go now drinking well on its own and with the character and oomph to pair well with comfort food—fajitas, pizza, burgers and rotisserie chicken. (Vic Harradine)

New in Vintages

• The bottle on the following Rosé is a work of art; the bottom is carved to resemble a rose. Surely you’ll make points for such thoughtfulness on February 14th. As well, the glass stopper can be washed and re-used for any bottle that was opened and not finished then stored in the frig to keep fresh for two or three days.

**** drink now
Gérard Bertrand ‘Côte des Roses’ Rosé 2014

AOP Languedoc $18.95 (373985) 13.0% alcohol

From the sunny south of France, this delicious Rosé sports a lovely blend of Grenache/Cinsault/Grenache fruit. Strawberry, floral and spice aromas open the door to palate-bathing flavours of red berry fruit, spice box and wisps of pink grapefruit on the clean refreshing aftertaste. It’s a delightful sipper and pairs perfectly with pan-seared salmon or charcuterie. (Vic Harradine)

New in LCBO

• The following wine is the first Ontario 2015 Rosé tasted and it’s a dandy—full of fresh, tangy, fruit flavour, great acidity and balanced on a pin.

****1/2 drink now Exceptional Value! Oh Canada!
Henry of Pelham Rosé 2015
VQA Niagara Peninsula $13.95 (613471) 11.5% alcohol
This blend of five premium red grapes is fresh, juicy and alive with aromas of strawberry and floral notes. It bathes the palate with racy flavours—red currant, cranberry and pie cherry—supported by sharp spice and a boatload of tang. This is medium-bodied with excellent mouth feel and a lingering, balanced, lip-smacking finish. Pour with pan-seared fish, grilled seafood, roast chicken or chèvre with dressed greens. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar Exceptional Value!
Les Trois Couronnes Crozes-Hermitage 2011

AOC Crozes-Hermitage, France $17.95 (421065) 12.5% alcohol 

This punches well above the price—quite elegant and charming. This 100% Syrah jumps from the glass with smoke, oak and toast aromas. Black currant, sweet vanilla and black juicy Bing cherry mingle with spice and mocha on the palate infusing the long aftertaste. It’s medium-full weight with good texture and great structure from a solid tannin underpinning and framed with delectable red berry tang. Aerate/decant two hours before serving with grilled strip loin. (Vic Harradine)

Sparkling Wine

****1/2 drink now Oh Canada!
Henry of Pelham ‘Cuvée Catharine’ Rosé Brut Non-Vintage

VQA Niagara Peninsula $29.95 (217505) 12.0% alcohol 

Here’s a stylish, traditional-method, value-laden gem that’s hitting the shelves in time for Valentine’s and, of course, beyond. Mousse froths in the glass adorned by aromas of red berry fruit, baking bread and spice. The fine-bead bubbles deliver a delectable, mouth-watering experience of strawberry and red currant flavour, balanced and charming. The lip-smacking finish layers on good acidity via wisps of blood orange. Keep a few bottles on hand. (Vic Harradine) 

New in Ontario Wineries

• Rosehall Run is one of the original County wineries with vines now more than a decade old. They’ve been consistent with quality and value and they’ve excelled with Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from the get go. The quality-value proposition is in your favour right across the impressive portfolio with winemaker Dan Sullivan guiding impressive results with a steady hand and impeccable vine management and winemaking expertise. The sparkling wine reviewed below is their first on offer. Order the following by the case for daily office or home delivery direct from the winery using this link - Rosehall Run - or pick it up from the cellar door on your next visit to the winery in Prince Edward County. It’s just two-plus hours drive from the GTA or Ottawa via the 401. Here’s a map

****1/2 drink or cellar Oh Canada!
Rosehall Run ‘Ceremony’ Blanc de Blancs Brut Multi-Vintage 

VQA Prince Edward County $34.95 12.2% alcohol 
Bracing citrus aromas meld with leesy notes and flecks of minerality on the nose of this methode traditionelle, estate-grown, 100% Chardonnay sparkling wine. Tangy lemon citrus dominates the initial sip with crisp green apple and hints of lime joining the party on the palate and infusing the mouth-watering finish. This is crisp and refreshing, perfect as a welcoming wine, served with appetizers or alongside fish or seafood. (Vic Harradine)

***** drink or cellar Exceptional Value! Oh Canada!
Rosehall Run ‘JCR - Rosehall Vineyard’ Chardonnay 2013 

VQA Prince Edward County $29.95 13.0% alcohol 
This delivers persistent purity of fruit, deft balance, firm structure, integrated oak and a delectable, lengthy aftertaste of monumental proportions. Baking spice, flinty/mineral notes and ripe orchard fruit aromas herald a medium-bodied, nicely textured, tang-laden stream of lemon curd, white nectarine and peach skin on the palate and finish. Winemaker/co-owner Dan Sullivan hits the bulls-eye with this barrel-select, fabulous offering… Bravo. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar Oh Canada!
Rosehall Run ‘JCR - Rosehall Vineyard’ Pinot Noir 2013 

VQA Prince Edward County $39.95 12.0% alcohol 
This barrel-select, flagship Pinot Noir aged on fine lees in French oak hogsheads (about 60% new) for 17 months then bottled unfined. Savory herbs, mineral notes, earthiness and red berry fruit aromas abound. A medium-weight, beautifully balanced river of red currant, red cherry and juicy black plum flavour bathes the palate garnished with charred toast. There’s good structure from friendly ripe tannin, persistent, pure ripe-fruit flavour with deft balance and a lengthy, tang-laden finish. Great now, should be even better given another year or two in bottle. (Vic Harradine)

New in Private Order

• Order the following wines by the case for home, restaurant or office delivery in Ontario from Nokhrin Wines or Email This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it., if in the GTA phone 416 704-8617.

**** drink or cellar
Negro Lorenzo Nebbiolo 2011
DOC Langhe, Italy $25.00 13.5% alcohol
Only Nebbiolo fruit here and this saw no oak, only stainless steel before bottling. Inky black and oozing aromas of dark berry fruit, tar and tobacco, it coats the plate with ripe dark cherry/berry flavours mingling with good acidity underpinned by supple tannin. It’s medium bodied with good texture and a long, dry aftertaste. Best popping corks 2018-2025; if you can’t wait, pour after a three-hour aeration/decant and serve with well-seasoned grilled red meat. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Negro Lorenzo ‘La Nanda’ Barbera d’Alba Superiore 2013
DOC Barbera d’Alba, Italy $40.00 15.0% alcohol
The 100% Barbera fruit spent 12 months in French oak barriques and further 24 months in large French oak barrel before bottling and bottle aging. Aromas of incense, earthiness and minerality precede a mid-weight wash of lively acidity and ripe fruit flavour—racy red currant is balanced beautifully with fresh strawberry and bramble berry compote on the palate. There’s good persistence of tang and fruit through the crisp, dry, mouth-watering aftertaste along with wisps of tannin. It’s good to go now with paella or pasta in tomato sauce after a two-hour aeration/decant. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Domaine de Vénus Côtes Catalanes 2013
IGP Côtes Catalanes, France $18.95 13.5% alcohol
This 100% Carignan gives up aromas of black plum compote, spice box and black cherry on the nose. A medium-bodied, nicely textured stream of black currant jam and red currant bathe the palate with notes of cassis and pie cherry tang. It finishes with replays and pours well with meat-lovers pizza or burgers. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Domaine de Vénus ‘Passions’ 2010
AOP Côtes du Roussillon Villages, France $29.95 15.0% alcohol
This interesting red blend of 60% Syrah/30% Grenache/10% Carignan delivers a perfumed bouquet of floral notes, cedar and dried currant. It’s full bodied and fully textured with a broad swath of ripe black cherry/berry fruit and spice coating the palate, infusing the lengthy aftertaste. This is deftly balanced with good structure and persistent purity of fruit—black currant and juicy Bing cherry. It’s good to go now and pours well with rack of lamb or grilled, pork back ribs. (Vic Harradine)

Cheers, Vic and Susan