February 1, 2016 Newsletter

Newsletter highlights include:

• Exceptional-value wine  – only 6 of 67 wines reviewed meet the strict quality-price guidelines and all are easily identified throughout the newsletter with prices from $11.75 to $29.95. What strict guidelines? Click here
• 5-star Wine – 3 wines rang the 5-star bell – Taittinger Brut 2008 @ $97.95 under Champagne; Secret de Schistes 2011 @ $41.95 under France: Red Wine; Kacaba Vineyards ‘Terraced Vineyard’ Syrah 2013 @ $29.95 under New in Ontario Wineries.
• Susan Selects – Lallier ‘Grand Cru Rosé’ Champagne Non-Vintage with 4½ stars @ $56.95 under Champagne; Columbia Crest ‘H3 Les Chevaux’ Red Blend 2012 with 4½ stars @ $19.95 under Washington State: Red Wine; Dashwood Pinot Noir 2013 with 4 ½ stars @ $24.95 under New Zealand: Red Wine; Secret de Schistes 2011 with 5 stars @ $41.95 under France: Red Wine; Foncalieu ‘Réserve du Crouzau St. Gervais’ Côtes du Rhône-Villages 2012 with 4 ½ stars @ $16.95 found under France: Red Wine.
• Vic Picks – Château des Charmes Méthode Traditionnelle Rosé 2012 with 4 ½ stars @ $28.95 under Sparkling Wine; Chateau St. Jean Chardonnay 2012 with 4½ stars @ $29.95 under California: White Wine; Joel Gott ‘815’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 with 4½ stars @ $24.95 under California: Red Wine; Sister’s Run ‘Calvary Hill’ Shiraz 2013 with 4½ stars @ $15.95 under Australia: Red Wine; Kacaba Vineyards ‘Terraced Vineyard’ Syrah 2013 with 5 stars @ $29.95 under New in Ontario Wineries.

Access the LCBO store nearest you with stock of any wine with an LCBO product number by clicking on the number shown in brackets in wine reviews then clicking on select stores and entering your postal code. The number of bottles available in each store near you is displayed. For Vintages Release wines, stock should be displayed the Friday before a Saturday release, some stores post earlier. For LCBO General List wines, it should closely reflect stock in stores, updated every 24 hours. It’s always best to phone first.

Vintages Release: February 6, 2016

Feature: South Africa

Ken Forrester ‘Old Vine Reserve’ Chenin Blanc 2015
WO Stellenbosch $17.95 (231282) 14.0% alcohol
This hits all the high notes, a fastidiously crafted wine with hand-harvested grapes grown without herbicides or pesticides, barrel fermented and held on the lees to enhance the aromas and texture. The nose offers honeyed stone fruit, floral notes, citrus and a whiff of grilled bread. Vibrant and lively on the palate, fresh flavours of pear, apricot and citrus delight, the clean acidity assuring fine balance. Dry, mid weight and refreshing through the finish, you’ll enjoy this with salmon rillettes. (Susan Desjardins)

Cathedral Cellars Pinotage 2013
WO Western Cape $16.95 (99267) 14.0% alcohol
Deep ruby, this is an appealing, approachable red, offering classic smoky/toasty notes with lashings of berry fruit and hints of spice and chocolate. Dry, robust and well balanced, it pairs subtle structure with fresh texture and ripe juicy berries entwined with coffee and tasty spice. A notion of dark chocolate weaves through the full-bodied finish. Serve with South African bobotie or duck confit. (Susan Desjardins)

Graham Beck ‘Brut’ Rosé Non-Vintage

WO Western Cape, South Africa $19.95 (175588) 12.0% alcohol 

This opens with fragrant aromas—strawberry, watermelon and wisps of raspberry—and plenty of mousse, a.k.a. froth or bubbles, that form when poured. It’s a delight on the palate with lively flavours of red cherry and red berry fruit persisting throughout. It finishes in a blaze of crisp, lip-smacking freshness. Wonderful on its own as an aperitif or party starter, it has the oomph to stand alongside most appetizers. (Vic Harradine)

Graham Beck ‘The Game Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2013
WO Robertson $18.95 (2519) 14.0% alcohol
Subtle vegetal, earthy cedar and delicate spice notes layer on aromas of ripe cassis, heralding the savory character and plush berry flavours of this dry, weighty Cab. Ripe tannins and fine acidity provide for good balance while well-integrated oak delivers toasty notes and a hint of tapenade through the tasty, dry finish. Smooth, easy-going and approachable, you’ll enjoy this with flavourful red meats. (Susan Desjardins)

Nederburg ‘Manor House’ Shiraz 2013

WO Western Cape $16.95 (68775) 14.5% alcohol

Spice and herbs infuse aromas of dark berry fruit and black plum on the nose. It’s rich and luscious with flavour galore of black cherry, ripe mulberry and dark berry fruit caressing the palate infusing the balanced, lingering finish and aftertaste. It’s mid weight with good mouth feel and offers pretty good value. (Vic Harradine)

Avondale ‘Jonty’s Ducks - Pekin White’ 2014
WO Paarl $14.95 (439554) 13.5% alcohol
Ducks patrol the vineyards that yield the fruit for this delightful organic-biodynamic, wild-ferment Chenin Blanc blend. The nose offers attractive aromas of flowers, stone fruit, quince jelly and citrus. The palate is creamy and tasty, lemon/lime and orchard-fruit flavours replaying with a touch of mineral. Lively and clean with a lengthy fresh finish, you can match this dry, light-mid weight wine to pasta with clam sauce. (Susan Desjardins)

Rupert & Rothschild ‘Classique’ 2012
WO Western Cape $22.95 (434787) 13.0% alcohol
Here’s a stylish, well-balanced, deep ruby Cab/Merlot blend tantalizing the nose with aromas of ripe red fruit, earth and dried herbs. There’s great concentration of fruit on the palate, elusive savory notes of fresh herbs, tobacco and roasted peppers woven through the flavours of berries and plum. Sporting a well-defined yet supple structure, the wine delivers great length on the finish. A great match for rare prime rib. (Susan Desjardins)

Rustenberg ‘RM Nicholson’ 2013
WO Stellenbosch $19.95 (278390) 14.5% alcohol
The intensity of this blend is evident in its inky purple hue and in the enticing and complex aromas—lush ripe black fruit, floral notes, hints of cracked pepper, sweet spice and vanilla. This medium-full bodied Shiraz, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon blend has great balance and impact—a velvety texture framed by ripe tannins and acidity with tasty flavours of cassis and plum. Hints of well-integrated toasty oak mingle with notes of tangy pepper and spice linger on the lengthy, dry finish. Savour with juicy grilled meats and root veggies. (Susan Desjardins)

The Main Release

Spirits: Brandy

Christian Drouin ‘Coeur de Lion Sélection’ Calvados
AOC Calvados $42.95 700 mL (254128) 40.0% alcohol
Aromas of freshly cut apple with piquant spice abound—wait ten seconds after you gently swirl to allow sharp spirit aromas to dissipate. It’s absolutely delicious—apple and caramel—with a round, warm, creamy mouth feel. The Drouins—3rd –generation family-owned producers—suggest this value-packed, entry-level, double-distilled gem be drunk as an aperitif, over the rocks or in a cocktail—two parts Calvados with one part tonic water—it can also be used in cooking, here are the Drouin’s recipes. (Vic Harradine)

Icewine

 
Lakeview Cabernet Franc Icewine 2013
VQA Niagara Peninsula $29.95 (53397) 375ml 11.0% alcohol
Aromas of fresh red berries, dried cherry, rosewater and potpourri drift from the glass of this intensely flavoured dessert wine. Luscious in texture, intensely flavourful and honeyed, the fine backbone of classic acidity balances and accents the berry flavours and delivers a lingering sumptuous aftertaste. Serve with your favorite chocolate torte along with raspberry coulis. (Susan Desjardins)

Champagne

Lallier ‘Grand Cru Rosé’ Champagne Non-Vintage
AOC Champagne $56.95 (385179) 12.5% alcohol
This elegant, pale-salmon beauty weaves together delicate notes of lightly toasted Easter bread, white flowers, fresh citrus and the red fruits of the Pinot Noir that dominate the blend. This is dry and crisp, showcasing a refined, persistent mousse. The palate’s persistent and true, replaying red fruits and testifying to the time spent on the lees. This shows elegance and verve through the lengthy, clean finish—it’s an ideal wine to wow your Valentine. (Susan Desjardins)

• The following Taittinger, vintage-dated Champagne was crafted from even portions of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir sourced only from Grand Crus vineyards. This is made only in exceptional vintages and was left on its lees five years developing fine-bead bubbles and great complexity. It was pressed in press houses spread amongst the vineyards to ensure freshness and only first-press juice was used. The 2008 Champagne vintage is considered exceptional, with some calling it the best in a generation.

Taittinger Brut 2008
AOC Champagne $97.95 (98905) 12.5% alcohol
All things considered, this is exceptional value and one a Champagne-lover will not want to pass up. The nose is alive with nutty/leesy notes along with brioche and wisps of apple and pear entwined in minerality. The fine-bead bubbles, bracing acidity and saline/minerality ride pale-gold and harmoniously across the palate robed in crisp refreshing replays of apple and pear soaked in lemony tang—a stunning wine. (Vic Harradine)

Château des Charmes Méthode Traditionnelle Rosé 2012

VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $28.95 (78055) 12.5% alcohol

Fruit—50% Pinot Noir, 50% Chardonnay—was hand-harvested, double fermented and spent approx. 24 months on lees before being disgorged. Filling the room with lifted aromas of ripe strawberry with wisps of red licorice, it bathes the palate with a soft mousse and creamy-smooth wash of strawberry tart nicely balanced with tangy red grapefruit on the aftertaste. Balanced and appealing, it pours beautifully on its own and pairs well with pan-seared fish (visually appealing with salmon) or crown roast of pork. (Vic Harradine)

• The following wine is from Limoux, France. Limoux is an area nestled in the foothills of the Pyrenees, south of the fortified/walled city of Carcassonne. It’s thought by scholars, through documentation, that sparkling wine was being made there as early as 1531 at a Benedictine abbey in Saint-Hilaire. It’s impossible to pinpoint an ‘inventor of sparkling wine’ as second fermentation in bottle occurs naturally. Urban legend incorrectly has Benedictine monk, Dom Perignon, the inventor of sparkling wine in Champagne. He lived 1638-1715 and made important contributions to the still wines (no bubbles) of Champagne—a style of wine that continues to be made there in minute quantities under AOC Coteau Champenois and AOC Rosè des Riceys. He struggled, as did others, to eliminate bubbles of secondary fermentation in bottles of his still wine—the very method in which Champagne (with bubbles) is now made. He apparently tasted grapes from specific vineyards with exact locations masked, so as not to be influenced by anything other than taste, aka ‘blind tasting’. You also may read that he was blind, and once joyfully exclaimed, ‘I’m tasting stars’, in reference to the bubbles in his Champagne. He wasn’t blind, although may have, ‘blind tasted’, and wasn’t producing sparkling wine—seemingly, he had little or no reason to exclaim that.

Gérard Bertrand ‘Thomas Jefferson’ Crémant de Limoux Brut 2013
AOC Crémant de Limoux $19.95 (438838) 12.0% alcohol
Fruit for this blend—Chardonnay/Chenin Blanc/Mauzac/Pinot Noir—was hand-harvested then fashioned in the traditional method with the 2nd fermentation occurring in the bottle you purchase and pour from. Aromas of pear, apple and leesy notes herald a profusion of fine-bead bubbles carrying flavours of just-baked bread, earthy notes and racy lemon-lime on the palate finishing with a crisp, refreshing aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)

Luc Belaire ‘Rare’ Sparkling Rosé Non-Vintage
Vin de France $39.95 (395384) 12.5% alcohol
This deep-salmon, Syrah/Cinsault/Grenache blend offers quite intense aromas of red fruit garnished with dried herbs and flowers. It’s dry and mid-weight with red fruit flavours accented by supple, persistent mousse. The tasty field berry flavours linger on the lively finish--sip and savour. (Susan Desjardins)

Pierre Sparr ‘Brut’ Rosé Crémant d’Alsace Non-Vintage

AOC Alsace $18.95 (39016) 12.0% alcohol

Pale salmon and crafted from Pinot Noir, the delicate aromas of red field berries come through on the crisp, bright and fresh palate. Just off-dry, light-medium bodied and fruity, it delivers fine mousse and lively acidity. A refreshing and delightful choice. (Susan Desjardins) 

Nino Franco Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superior Brut Non-Vintage
DOCG Veneto $21.95 (349662) 11.0% alcohol
Vibrant and fresh from first whiff to last sip, this classic Prosecco offers aromas and flavours of apple, pear and fresh grapes, a gentle, persistent mousse and a delightfully flavourful finish. Enjoy on its own or with butternut squash risotto. (Susan Desjardins)

Ontario: White Wine

 
Sue-Ann Staff ‘Loved by Lu’ Riesling 2014
VQA Niagara Peninsula $16.95 (322636) 11.0% alcohol
Attractive floral notes tickle the nose mingling with scents of sweet stone fruit and candied citrus. This light-medium bodied, off-dry Riesling is tasty and fresh with flavours of lemon and sugar-grilled grapefruit, apple and pear delivering a pleasant hint of residual sugar on the fruity finish. Pair with smoked salmon or lightly spiced Asian dishes. (Susan Desjardins)

Ontario: Red Wine

 
Creekside Estate Merlot 2013

VQA Four Mile Creek $24.95 13.0% alcohol

Sourced from the Serluca Family Vineyard in Four Mile Creek, this single-vineyard Merlot underwent a three-day cold soak in stainless steel and aged in 43% old French oak and 57% American oak barrels. Ripe plum, blackberry and raspberry jam with hints of spice, tobacco and chocolate dominate the nose. The juicy fruit repeats on the palate with spice and sweet smoke. This medium-bodied, silky, crowd pleaser pairs beautifully with sticky barbecued ribs. (Lisa Isabelle)

 
Fielding Estate ‘Red Conception 2012 

VQA Niagara Peninsula $18.95 (189183) 13.0% alcohol 

Aromas of dark briary berry, pipe tobacco and graphite open a gorgeous, concentrated river of lively red and black berry fruit, tangy red cherry and rich, black plum compote, coating the palate in grainy-textured waves. It’s medium bodied with a solid tannin underpinning, good balance and structure. This vintage’s blend is 68% Cab Franc, 18% Cab Sauv, 8% Syrah and 6% Petit Verdot. Aerate for two hours before pouring. It provides excellent value. (Vic Harradine) 

 
Fielding Cabernet Sauvignon 2012
VQA Niagara Peninsula $29.95 (444661) 13.5% alcohol
Deep-ruby hued, this shows good depth of flavour and deft balance. Captivating aromas fill the air—earthiness, sweet spice and vanilla, hints of creamy mocha and ripe red fruit. On the palate, berry and cassis flavours with elusive notes of roasted peppers and grilled herbs, sweet spice and toasty oak add complexity. Long and rich on the finish, this dry, velvety-textured, medium-full bodied wine matches a wide range of hearty meat dishes or wild mushroom arrosto. (Susan Desjardins)

 
The Magician Shiraz/Pinot Noir 2012
VQA Niagara Peninsula $24.95 (246413) 14.0% alcohol
Aromas of black berry, dried fruit, exotic spice and vanilla with hints of chocolate and cappuccino dominate. This was aged 14 months in French oak—it’s enhanced, concentrated flavours reflect grapes kiln-dried for three weeks. Full bodied and structured, it combines richness of flavour and texture with well-defined tannins, pleasing acidity and lasting finish. Enjoy the plush, ripe, berry fruit and nuances of chocolate-coated dried cherries interlaced with nuances of cracked pepper and spice. Serve with roast lamb. (Susan Desjardins)

California: White Wine

• If you cast bait in thirty-dollar, California Chardonnay waters, the following 2012 Chateau St. Jean Chardonnay could be your catch of the day.

Chateau St. Jean Chardonnay 2012
Sonoma Coast $29.95 (441071) 14.2% alcohol
Medium-golden yellow in the glass, it offers aromas of citrus, floral notes and baking spice. A glorious wash of poached pear, baked apple and grilled pineapple interweave with tangy lemon curd and a boatload of charm; it’s structured, balanced and beautiful. This was mid-full weight with good mouth feel, lengthy aftertaste and was tough to spit. (Vic Harradine)

California: Red Wine

J. Lohr ‘Carol’s Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2013
St. Helena, Napa Valley $62.95 (246918) 14.9% alcohol
This rich and complex California Cab wafts from the glass with alluring aromas of dark berry fruit, savory herbs, spice and dark coffee. This is medium-plus weight and nicely textured with full-bore fruit. There’s bramble berry, sweet, ripe mulberry and dark, juicy cherry galore—entwined with good moderating tang and acidity along with wisps of dark chocolate and sweet vanilla—it rested 12 months in oak, 25% new. It finishes well balanced, lengthy and full of flavour. (Vic Harradine)

Joel Gott ‘815’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2013
California $24.95 (444059) 13.9% alcohol
The price-quality ratio here skews in your favour. Premium fruit was sourced from various appellations—Napa Valley, Sonoma County, Lodi, Lake County, Paso Robles and Monterey County. Aromas of roasted herbs, pencil shavings, dark berry fruit and spice introduce a concentrated flow of ripe, dark, briary berry and sweet, black cherry interlaced with espresso roast. It’s full-bodied with good texture and a lingering, balanced and fruit-filled finish and aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)

L Jota ‘Howell Mountain Estate’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2012
Howell Mountain, Napa Valley $94.95 (659755) 14.5% alcohol
Toasty oak and smoke are joined by aromas of tar and medicinal notes on the nose of this muscular Cab. Rich, succulent flavours coat the palate with black currant and dark Bing cherry garnished with espresso roast and fennel to the fore. This brawny, full-bodied and fully fruited beauty rolls over the finish and aftertaste in never-ending waves of cassis and pure ambrosia. Pour with a slab of well-seasoned, rare-grilled steak. (Vic Harradine)

Rutherford Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon 2013

Napa Valley $25.95 (73817) 13.5% alcohol

There’s more to this red blend than meets the eye—93% Cab Sauv, 4% Merlot, 2% Malbec, 1% Petit Verdot spending over 14 months aging in French and American oak. It leaps from the glass with perfumed aromas of dark berry and mocha preceding a nicely textured wash of black currant and juicy black cherry interwoven with mint and dark bittersweet chocolate. It finishes balanced and fruity. (Vic Harradine)

Washington State: Red Wine

Columbia Crest ‘H3 Les Chevaux’ Red Blend 2012 

Horse Heaven Hills, Washington State $19.95 (287425) 14.5% alcohol

Principally Syrah, blended with Merlot and small amounts of other grape varieties, this shows complexity on the nose—floral notes, plum, blueberry and blackberry, notes of licorice, exotic spice and lavender. Dry and full bodied, the ripe tannins and a fine degree of fresh acidity frame flavours of brambleberry pie, cocoa and smoky toast. The texture is plush yet spicy and peppery through the warm, dry finish. Tremendous balance of rich fruit and well-defined structure makes this a good value for the cellar and a great match for herbed lamb chops. (Susan Desjardins)

Australia: Red Wine

Beelgara ‘Black Label’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2012
Clare Valley, South Australia $17.95 (376855) 13.0% alcohol
Sandalwood and savory herb aromas provide segue to a tangy and tannin-laden Cab from cooler-climate Clare Valley. It dishes up a river of racy red currant robed in green herbs and loads of tang. It’s mid-plus weight with a dry, crisp and mouth-watering finish. Pour with pasta in tomato sauce. Pop corks 2017 to 2019. (Vic Harradine)

PepperJack Cabernet Sauvignon 2013
Barossa Valley, South Australia $24.95 (433003) 14.0% alcohol
Charred toast and black currant aromas herald a structured, balanced stream of ripe mulberry and pie cherry with baking spice and black plum compote on the palate and persisting through the lingering finish. Fruit was gently pressed, spending 15 months in French and American oak before bottling. This is medium-full bodied and nicely textured with a lengthy, balanced-on-a-pin finish. (Vic Harradine)

Sister’s Run ‘Calvary Hill’ Shiraz 2013
Barossa Valley, South Australia $15.95 (222018) 14.5% alcohol
This is a steal. Start the car, load up the trunk. Spice-laden dark berry fruit and mocha set the table for a smorgasbord of black currant, pie cherry and sweet ripe mulberry melding together providing balance, structure and a mouthful of flavour. As winemaker Elena Brooks says, ‘The truth is in the vineyard, but the proof is in the glass.’ It’s full bodied and fully textured with a long, delectable aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)

New Zealand: White Wine

Hãhã Sauvignon Blanc 2013

Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand $17.95 (388363) 13.5% alcohol 

You just have to love a wine called ‘Hãhã’ and I’m not sure if the winemaker was wanting to play a trick—in Māori it means delicious—but there’s nothing tricky about this fabulous Sauvignon Blanc. Very pale in colour, the usual culprits spring to life on the palate; some grapefruit and lime citrus, a little gooseberry. It’s lively with a little pithiness on the finish and lots of fresh pizzazz. Your taste buds burst with saliva which makes it a fabulous aperitif. With some fig and hazelnut crisps and soft peppery cheese in an endive leaf, it would be divine. (Julie Stock)

New Zealand: Red Wine

Dashwood Pinot Noir 2013
Marlborough $24.95 (296202) 13.5% alcohol
Semi-transparent ruby in the glass, this classic offers aromas of lovely earthy notes, a mineral nuance and aromas of red fruit and spice. It’s dry and medium bodied with lovely integration on the palate. The earthiness is a beautiful complement to the plum and berry fruit while the dash of spice and cedar add allure. It’s elegant, stylish, nicely structured and well paced through the finish; this is excellent value. (Susan Desjardins)

France: White Wine

Château Saint Genes 2013

AOC Bordeaux $15.95 (418889) 12.0% alcohol

This Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc blend displays involved aromas of floral, baking spice and honeyed notes adorning green apple and ripe pear on the nose. There’s a solid line of mouth-watering acidity on the palate with lemon zest, Key lime and white grapefruit to the fore. The finish is mid-length showcasing citrus pith and notions of savoury herbs. (Vic Harradine)

Hervé Azo Chablis 2014
AOC Chablis $24.95 (185736) 12.5% alcohol
Distinctive aromas of campfire smoke and steely/minerality jump from the glass. It streaks across the plate with magnificent nerve and verve brilliantly expressed by Key lime, dried herbs and notions of white grapefruit. Sleek, trim, and light on its feet, it delivers a racy, dry, lip-smacking finish and aftertaste. This pours well with sushi, ceviche and freshly shucked oysters. (Vic Harradine)

Louis Moreau ‘Domaine de Biéville’ Chablis 2014
AOC Chablis $25.95 (106161) 12.5% alcohol
100% Chardonnay fruit was sourced from vines with an average age of 45 years then traditionally fermented and aged in stainless steel—this saw no oak, but did undergo malolactic fermentation aka malolactic conversion—the conversion of malic acid to lactic acid. Aromas of green apple, citrus and mineral notes precede a lively rush of palate-bathing flavour including crisp, refreshing green apple and lemon-lime tang with flinty notes. It’s nicely textured with notes of baked apple and butter pastry on the mouth-watering finish. Pour with pan-seared fish or grilled calamari rings. (Vic Harradine)

Les Costières de Pomerois ‘Beauvignac’ Picpoul de Pinet 2014
AOP Picpoul de Pinet $14.95 (350124) 12.5% alcohol
If you’re not familiar with this unique offering and you enjoy vibrant, crisp whites, give this a whirl. From the fresh, clean aromas of orchard fruit, citrus and crushed herbs through the vivid, mouth-cleansing tang and refreshing flavours of crisp green apple and lemon/lime, it’s overflowing with personality and great value. Dry, medium bodied with just a hint of spritz, the long, juicy finish will bring you back for yet another sip. Enjoy on its own or with pan-fried halibut under a squeeze of fresh lemon. (Susan Desjardins)

Gerard Bertrand ‘Réserve Spéciale’ Viognier 2014
IGP Pays d’Oc $14.95 (147975) 13.0% alcohol
Perfumed, alluring aromas of honeysuckle, ripe pineapple and mandarin orange are precursor to a deftly balanced river of honey-brushed peach and pear, lemon pie filling, and a peach skin bite on the flavourful finish and aftertaste. This is medium weight with creamy mouth feel and offers excellent value. Pour on its own or alongside roast chicken or pan-seared pork medallions. (Vic Harradine)

France: Red Wine

• The following Ségla is the ‘second label’ of the left bank, 2nd growth, Château Rauzan-Ségla with plantings of approximately 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, 5% Cab Franc, 1% Petit Verdot with a 30-year average age for vines.

Château Rauzan-Ségla ‘Ségla’ 2006

AOC Margaux $55.95 (359810) 13.0% alcohol

Floral notes, cedar and earthy aromas interwoven with plum and dark berry fruit introduce a mid-weight wash of black plum compote and red currant with roasted herbs on the palate persisting through the aftertaste. It showcases depth, complexity and a wisp of fine-grained tannin. This decade-old red blend will benefit from an aeration/decant a couple of hours before serving. (Vic Harradine)

Cave de Roquebrun ‘La Grange des Combes’ Saint-Chinian-Roquebrun 2013
AOC Saint-Chinian-Roquebrun $18.95 (155804) 14.0% alcohol
Deep-purple hued, this blend of Syrah, Grenache, Mourvèdre tantalizes the nose with layered complexity—intense fruit, smoky toast, sweet spice and peppery notes. The ripe flavours of blackberry and plum are well matched to a lively texture and perceptible tannins. Interesting savoury notes add depth and intensity—tapenade, pepper, coffee and dark chocolate. Big and powerful, with a long dry finish, this is a great match for grilled or roast lamb. (Susan Desjardins)

Château de l’Ou ‘Secret de Schistes’ Côtes Catalanes 2011
IGP Côtes Catalanes $41.95 (440669) 15.0% alcohol
Opaque and inky, this amazing Syrah is structured for cellaring, but given its depth and ripeness of fruit, tastes delectable now as well. The striking earthy, meaty aromas layer on black cherry and cassis, garrigue and black olives, an introduction to the generous, expansive black fruit flavours and tangy nuances of spice and pepper. Bold, balanced and well framed, plush and velvety, this full-bodied wine delivers an extensive, dry finish with tasty traces of spiced chocolate and garrigue. Serve now with beef tenderloin garnished with herbes de provence and stash a bottle or two to savour over the next 10 years. (Susan Desjardins)
 

Château Pech Redon L’Epervier La Clape 2012
AOC Coteaux du Languedoc $24.95 (129965) 14.5% alcohol
A blend of Syrah/Grenache/Mourvèdre/Carignan, this effectively integrates classic earthy, meaty notes with the appealing aromas of dusky fruit, vanilla, herbs and spice. Dry and medium-full bodied, the lively fresh character shines through with tasty cherry/berry fruit paired with defined tannins. There a touch of warmth on the finish, while evidence of limited oak aging in larger barrels manifests in the restrained notes of vanilla, toast and spice. Serve with cassoulet. (Susan Desjardins)

Domaine Houchart Red 2013
AOC Côtes de Provence $16.95 (438614) 13.0% alcohol
This is an approachable blend of Grenache, Cabernet Sauvignon, Carignan and Syrah, showing appealing aromas of spiced rose and red fruits which translate on the palate to tasty red cherry/berry and plum skin flavours. Fresh in texture with perceptible tannins, this mid-weight crowd-pleaser finishes savoury and dry. Enjoy it with pizza or burgers. (Susan Desjardins)

Domaine Puig-Parahy ‘Cuvée Georges’ 2011
AOC Côtes du Roussillon $17.95 (171025) 13.5% alcohol
A semi-transparent ruby blend of Carignan, Syrah, Grenache, the red fruit aromas of this wine are tinged with whiffs of smoke and tomato leaf. Vibrant and juicy in texture, the flavours are true to the nose, red berry and currant washing across the palate with an intriguing slight vegetal note and hints of smoky toast. Medium bodied, clean and dry on the finish, it’ll pair with any hearty stew. (Susan Desjardins)

Gayda Syrah 2013
IGP Pays d’Oc $14.95 (392977) 13.0% alcohol
There’s an ethereal scent of spiced rose drifting from the glass overlaid on savoury notes of cracked pepper, roasted red peppers and black cherry/berry aromas. There’s great purity of fruit in this dry, medium-full bodied Syrah with its focused core of tasty red fruit mingling with spice, pepper and a hint of licorice. The ripe juicy fruit is paired with tangy acidity, perceptible tannins and a fruity finish, making this a great food wine and one that will cellar a few more years. Aerate/decant a couple of hours before serving—it’s great value. (Susan Desjardins)

Hecht & Bannier Minervois 2013
AOC Minervois $19.95 (17764) 14.0% alcohol
The inky, opaque colour of this red blend is a good indicator of the weight and intensity you’ll find in the glass. There’s consistency from the first whiff through the palate—lashings of ripe black cherry, plum and berry and well-integrated toasty notes—it spent 24 months in large barrel—along with hints of pepper, sweet spice and black licorice lingering on the long, rich, textured finish. Dry, full bodied and well balanced, here’s another great value to pair with your choice of grilled or roast red meats or to serve alongside a plate of fine charcuterie and aged cheese. (Susan Desjardins)

Foncalieu ‘Réserve du Crouzau St. Gervais’ Côtes du Rhône-Villages 2012
AOC Côtes du Rhône-Villages $16.95 (142943) 14.0% alcohol
This award winner offers a perfumed nose of garrigue, vanilla, spice and ripe field berries. Nicely balanced and medium-full bodied, the tasty flavours of raspberry, plum and black cherry are garnished with spicy peppery notes while ripe tannins and clean acidity add to the frame and substance. Weighty on the palate, the wine is warm, ripe, rich and flavourful, delivering a long velvety finish. This is versatile at the table and offers exceptional value. (Susan Desjardins)

France: Rosé Wine

Gérard Bertrand ‘Côte des Roses’ Rosé 2014

AOP Languedoc $18.95 (373985) 13.0% alcohol

Strawberry, floral and spice aromas open the door to palate-bathing flavours of red berry fruit, spice box and wisps of pink grapefruit on the clean refreshing aftertaste. It’s a delightful sipper and pairs perfectly with pan-seared salmon and charcuterie. The glass stopper can be washed and re-used—on bottles they fit—that were opened, not finished, and stored in the frig to keep them fresh for 3 or 4 days—red, Rosé or white. (Vic Harradine)

Italy: Red Wine

  
Marchesi Di Barolo Barbaresco 2012
DOCG Barbaresco $29.95 (155408) 14.0% alcohol
Barbaresco is an appellation close to Barolo. They both use Nebbiolo grapes with Barbaresco usually the more approachable when young because of a softer tannin structure. Dusty/earthy notes on the nose open the door for a tang-laden, spicy current of black plum, savory/herbaceous notes. This is medium-bodied with decent mouth feel and a tart, racy aftertaste of pie cherry and pomegranate. Pour alongside pastitsio or lasagna. (Vic Harradine)

Castelli Del Grevepesa ‘Clemente VII’ Chianti Classico Riserva 2010
DOCG Chianti Classico $20.95 (643205) 14.5% alcohol
This 18-member grower co-op sourced 100% hand-harvested Sangiovese for this top-of-line red that spent 12 months in seasoned oak. Wood smoke and spiced dark berry aromas provide segue for a brawny juicy rush of red berry bruit and sour cherry streaking over the palate infusing the dry, racy aftertaste. This is medium weight and nicely textured with good structure and another five years of optimum drinking. Serve with osso bucco. (Vic Harradine)

Monte Del Fra ‘Lena Di Mezzo’ Valpolicella Classico 2014
DOC Valpolicella $17.95 (160226) 12.5% alcohol
Fruit in this classic red blend is 80% Corvina/Corvinone with the balance Rondinella. Aromas of mint, licorice and floral notes make way for a mid-weight, juicy stream of palate-bathing flavour with red currant and pie cherry to the fore. There’s a delightful smattering of ripe berry fruit on the lip-smacking finish. Pour with prawn and chorizo paella. (Vic Harradine)

• All the fruit in the previous and following red blends—80% Corvina/Corvinone, 20% Rondinella—was Pergola trained (trained to go up and then horizontal so grapes are virtually overhead) in the ancient way, rather than the Guyot system, (trained on low wires) as is now commonly used. It’s considerably more expensive, but aids in reducing tannin and affords longer hang time producing berries particularly more suitable to the drying process necessary in the making of Ripasso wine as in the following Monte Del Fra 2013 Ripasso.

Monte Del Fra ‘Lena Di Mezzo’ Valpolicella Ripasso Classico Superiore 2013
DOC Valpolicella Ripasso $19.95 (165662) 14.0% alcohol
Sweet vanilla, dark coffee and chocolate aromas on the nose, this dishes up a river of black briary berry and dark juicy cherry entwined with plenty of peppery spice and oodles of structure and charm. It’s creamy smooth with good weight and balance and a dark ripe berry fruit and tangy, mouth-watering finish—each sip as good or better than the previous. (Vic Harradine)

Spain: Red Wine

Finca Del Marquesado ‘Gran Reserva’ 2008
DOCa Rioja $21.95 (384248) 13.5% alcohol
Aromas of field berry fruit, leather and spice introduce a balanced wash of palate-bathing flavour—pie cherry and red currant dressed with piquant spice and dried fruit. It’s good weight and nicely paced with persistent purity of fruit on the palate and through the lengthy aftertaste. It’s a drink-me-now Tempranillo/Mazuelo/Garnacha red blend that’ll pair well with grilled red meat. (Vic Harradine)

Pasión de Bobal 2012
DOP Utile-Requena $16.95 (439679) 13.5% alcohol
Fruit forward, this is a versatile wine showcasing smoky notes, a whiff of vanilla and notions of dark fruit. Dry, medium-full bodied, the sweet black fruit is accented by spicy, peppery notes and a slight hint of bitter chocolate. Subtly framed, it’s a crowd pleaser that finishes as it began, with pleasing flavours of sweet ripe fruit. (Susan Desjardins)

Upstream in winecurrent

Vintages Release: February 20, 2016

• The following winery, Kono, is part of a group of companies owned by Wakatū, a corporation based in Nelson, New Zealand with approximately 4,000 shareholders who descend from the original Māori land owners of the Nelson, Tasman and Golden Bay Regions. Wakatū are successful, having grown their assets from $11 million in 1977 to its present value of over $260 million. Kono is Certified Sustainable and true to Māori culture they have a strong spiritual connection to the land and to the things they grow.

 
Kono Sauvignon Blanc 2014
Marlborough, South Island $19.95 (441394) 13.0% alcohol
This leaps from the glass with wild abandon and lifted aromas of passion fruit, asparagus and citrus. It caresses the palate with waves of lemon curd and juicy tang entwined with grilled pineapple and honeydew melon. It’s balanced and beautiful with good weight, generous mouth feel and a crisp, mouth-watering finish and aftertaste—this is very good value. Pour with pan-seared fish or grilled sea food. (Vic Harradine)

Vintages Release: March 5, 2016

• When down Niagara way, the Restaurant at Peninsula Ridge, 5800 King Street West, Beamsville, Ontario was just named one of the top 100 Restaurants in Canada by OpenTable diners. Reserve here. Enjoy the meal and the following wine.

 
Peninsula Ridge ‘Barrel Aged’ Chardonnay 2014
VQA Beamsville Bench $15.95 (211490) 12.5% alcohol
Aromas of baking spice, caramel and nutty notes open this medium-bodied, nicely textured beauty. It washes over the palate with apple and pear robed in a solid line of mouth-watering lemony tang and spicy oak on the palate, persisting through the delightful finish and aftertaste. This punches well above the price; stock up while you can. (Vic Harradine)

New in the LCBO

Château Graves de Rabion 2011
AOC Saint-Émilion, Bordeaux, France $19.80 (420992) 13.0% alcohol
This 90% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc red blend was sourced from 40-year-old vines. It delivers aromas of spice box and earthy notes before coating the palate with a medium-weight, generously textured river of dark berry fruit with notions of dark-chocolate-covered black cherry. It’s well balanced with good structure from soft tannin and framed with good acidity. It finishes with a fruity flourish, lengthy and delicious. (Vic Harradine)

Les Trois Couronnes Crozes-Hermitage 2011
AOC Crozes-Hermitage, France $17.95 (421065) 12.5% alcohol 
This punches well above the price—quite elegant and charming. This 100% Syrah jumps from the glass with smoke, oak and toast aromas. Black currant, sweet vanilla and black juicy Bing cherry mingle with spice and mocha on the palate infusing the long aftertaste. It’s medium-full weight with good texture and great structure from a solid tannin underpinning and framed with delectable red berry tang. Aerate/decant two hours before serving with grilled strip loin. (Vic Harradine)

Domaine de la Presidente Côtes-du-Rhône Villages Cairanne 2013
AOC Côtes-du-Rhône Villages Cairanne, France $16.65 (425074) 13.5% alcohol
This value-packed, 60% Grenache, 40% Syrah red blend offers aromas of red berry fruit and floral notes. It flows over the palate with a crowd-pleasing river of red raspberry, black currant and peppery spice robed in a juicy wash of red fruit tang. It’s dry and long on the finish. Pour with meat-lovers pizza or beef fajitas. (Vic Harradine)

Mauro Chardonnay 2013
IGT Puglia, Italy $11.75 (404491) 13.0% alcohol
This 100% Chardonnay was partially aged in oak, though there’s barely a wisp of it now. Aromas of crisp green apple and nutty notes introduce a gorgeous, medium-bodied generously textured stream of white peach, racy lemon curd and Granny Smith apple interlaced with baking spice and notions of hazelnuts. The price-quality balance tips well in your favour; keep a few on hand for when friends drop in. (Vic Harradine)

New in Ontario Wineries

• Order the following wines by the case for daily home, office or restaurant delivery directly online from Kacaba Vineyards, by phone at 1 866 522-2228 or 1 905 562-5625, or pick up a bottle or case from the winery at 3550 King Street in Vineland ON. 

 
Kacaba Vineyards ‘Oak Aged’ Chardonnay 2014
VQA Niagara Escarpment $24.95 12.5% alcohol
Fruit was fermented in stainless steel tank then transferred to second-fill barrels for malolactic conversion and aging. Green apple, caramel and exotic spice aromas abound. It rushes over the palate with a solid line of racy tang—crisp Granny Smith apple and lemon curd—balanced nicely with ripe pear and pineapple. It’s mid-weight with good mouth feel and a mid-length aftertaste of grapefruit pith and wisps of oak. Better in six or so months, but quite nice now poured with supermarket, rotisserie chicken and roast potatoes. (Vic Harradine)

• The following three Syrah wines from Kacaba are all from estate-grown fruit with unique characteristics. A brief look at those individual characteristics are offered prior to each review:

Proprietor’s Block – sitting the furthest west on a fairly flat block of land, these Syrah vines are the most recent planted. They were six-years old when harvested for this wine. This block sometimes ripens earlier than others possibly due to the flat topography and higher loam content. This 2013 vintage is the first year this fruit was bottled as a single-vineyard offering.

 
Kacaba Vineyards ‘Proprietor’s Block’ Syrah 2013
VQA Niagara Escarpment $29.95 13.0% alcohol
Campfire smoke, peppery spice and dark cherry/berry aromas unleash a dazzling balanced and satin-smooth wash of red cherry, ripe red bramble berry and strawberry jam with notions of grilled herbs. It’s mid-full bodied with good mouth feel and lengthy aftertaste. This young red spent 12 months in American and French oak barrel and now carries itself with poise and elegance well beyond its age; it’s quite mellow and harmonious, very good value, well integrated and delicious throughout. (Vic Harradine)

Terraced Vineyard – is one of two of the oldest blocks of Syrah planted in1998 along with some fruit from vines planted in 2007. Vines are planted in a north-to-south-running ravine and needed to be terraced—as a result they receive maximum exposure to the sun.

  
Kacaba Vineyards ‘Terraced Vineyard’ Syrah 2013
VQA Niagara Escarpment $29.95 12.6% alcohol
Roasted herbs, sandalwood and red berry fruit aromas on the nose, this dishes up a fruit-forward river of sweet, ripe mulberry and red cherry mingling with soft spice and wisps of chalky/minerality on the palate and infusing the lingering aftertaste. Medium bodied and nicely textured, it has good structure from ripe, fine-grained tannin, persistent fruit, balance of a prima ballerina, interest, complexity and charm. Kudos to winemaker John Tummon who consistently crafts a line up of stars, this eked out a narrow ‘best’ this time and was certainly the hardest to spit. (Vic Harradine)

Silver Bridge Vineyard – it can be seen from the silver Bailey bridge on the property consisting of vines planted in 1998 with its quality of fruit arguably being the best each vintage. It consistently achieves higher sugar levels and flavour concentration, it’s the block that’s least affected by cold winters and ripens last many years.

 
Kacaba Vineyards ‘Silver Bridge Vineyard’ Syrah 2013
VQA Niagara Escarpment $29.95 12.8% alcohol
Subtle aromas of cedar, mixed spice and mocha drift easily from this polished, well-paced Syrah. It caresses the palate with a balanced wash of pie cherry and ripe blueberry robed in excellent acidity with lip-smacking tang and wisps of peppery spice. This red is marked by purity of fruit, creamy-smooth texture, deft balance, absolutely no rough edges and mouth-watering aftertaste—what’s not to like? Pour with grilled rack of lamb. (Vic Harradine)

New in Restaurants/Hotels Only

• The following two wines from 2027 Cellars are found on wine lists in popular wine-friendly restaurants and hotels as they can only be purchased by holders of a licensee permit. If you’re a licensee, contact owner/winemaker, Kevin Panagapka @ This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. to make enquires and order. If you’re a wine-lover, look for 2027 Cellars on the wine list when dining out. If there aren’t any, you might politely suggest they stock them.

 
2027 Cellars ‘Queenston Road Vineyard’ Sparkling Wine 2012

VQA St. David’s Bench $25.14 12.0% alcohol 
Winemaker Kevin Panagapka hit the bulls-eye; it’s a pristine reflection of fruit and terroir. This limited-production, vintage-dated, Méthode Traditionelle, 40% Pinot Noir/60% Chardonnay blend spent 24 months on lees before disgorgement and topped with 0% sugar dosage. Distinctive aromas of Granny Smith apple and steely mineral notes mingle with subtle wisps of mandarin orange. The glorious mouthful of fine-bead bubbles and flavour—Meyer lemon and white grapefruit garnished with green apple—envelope the palate, infusing the lip-smacking finish. A stunning aperitif poured on its own, it also pours perfectly with fish, sea food or crumbled chèvre over dressed green salad. (Vic Harradine)

 
2027 Cellars ‘Wismer Vineyard-Fox Croft Block’ Riesling 2014 

VQA Twenty Mile Bench $15.80 9.8% alcohol 

This whole-cluster pressed, dazzling Riesling rips from the glass with green apple and lemon blossom aromas interwoven with minerality. It streaks across the palate with bracing acidity, steely focus and Key lime tang, all beautifully balanced with lip-smacking lemon pie filling. This is medium weight, slightly off-dry with persistent purity of fruit and lingering finish. A lovely aperitif, it also pours sublime with fish, sea food or spicy Asian cuisine. (Vic Harradine)

Cheers, Vic and Susan