January 18, 2016 Newsletter

California Wine Fair – Purchase tickets now. It visits seven centres across Canada from coast to coast. Taste over 400 wines from +150 prominent California wineries for one low admission price. Highly regarded as ‘the’ wine show of the year that one does not miss; it’s often sold out. Purchase tickets now @ www.calwine.ca and have questions answered via the California Wine Fair Hotline (905) 336-8932 or 1-800-558-CORK (2675).  It’s always best to taste and spit or drink in moderation and arrange for public transportation.

• There are NO tickets sold at the door! 

The 37th annual California Wine Fair tour pours across Canada on the following dates:

• Quebec City, PQ: Friday, April 1
• Montreal, PQ: Tuesday, April 5
• Ottawa, ON: Friday, April 8
• Toronto, ON: Monday, April 11
• Halifax, NS: Thursday, April 14
• Vancouver, BC: Monday, April 25
• Calgary, AB: Tuesday, April 26

Newsletter highlights include:

• Exceptional-value wine  – an incredible 12 of 57 wines, almost three times the average, reviewed meet the strict quality-price guidelines and all are easily identified throughout the newsletter. What strict guidelines? Click here
• 5-star Wine – two wines rang the 5-star bell – 2027 Cellars ‘Wismer Vineyard-Fox Croft Block’ Chardonnay 2012 @ 30.00 and 2027 Cellars ‘Queenston Road’ Pinot Noir 2012 @ $35.00 both found under New in Ontario Wineries. The 2013 Vintage was tasted/reviewed at 5 stars, but are not available until later in 2016.
• Susan Selects – Casa Silva ‘Cool Coast’ Sauvignon Blanc 2014 with 4½ stars @ $16.95 found under Argentina Feature; Viña Cobos ‘Felino’ Chardonnay 2014 with 4½ stars @ $19.95 found under Chile Feature; Santa Carolina ‘Specialties Dry Farming’ Carignan 2011 with 4½ stars @ $17.95; Porcupine Ridge Sauvignon Blanc 2015 with 4 ½ stars @ $13.95 found under South Africa: White Wine.
• Vic Picks – Vale Do Bomfim 2013 with 4½ stars @ $15.95 found under DOC Duoro, Portugal Feature; Mallory & Benjamin Talmard Mâcon-Uchizy 2014 with 4 ½ stars @ $16.95 found under France: White Wine; Château des Demoiselles 2010 with 4½ stars @ $17.95 found under France: Red Wine; Vinessens Sein 2011 with 4 ½ stars @ $16.95 under Spain: Red Wine; 2027 Cellars ‘Queenston Road’ Pinot Noir 2012 with 5 stars @ $35.00 under New in Vintages.

Access the LCBO store nearest you with stock of any wine with an LCBO product number by clicking on the number shown in brackets in wine reviews then clicking on select stores and entering your postal code. The number of bottles available in each store near you is displayed. For Vintages Release wines, stock should be displayed the Friday before a Saturday release, some stores post earlier. For LCBO General List wines, it should closely reflect stock in stores, updated every 24 hours. It’s always best to phone first.

Vintages Release: January 23, 2016

Feature: Argentina and Chile

Argentina

 
Viña Cobos ‘Felino’ Chardonnay 2014
Mendoza $19.95 (119099) 14.5% alcohol
Intriguing aromas of custard tart and toasted nut underlie the expressive aromas of apple, pear and citrus. Balancing vibrant acidity with ripe tree fruit and pineapple, there’s a touch of caramel apple and spicy, toasty notes on this dry, medium-full bodied wine—it shows terrific harmony on the palate. And then there’s the long, tangy, smooth finish to enjoy… and enjoy. A sipping wine for cooks; buy a second bottle of this for the meal. (Susan Desjardins)

Terrazas de los Andes ‘Reserva’ Malbec 2013
Mendoza $18.95 (29280) 14.5% alcohol
Purple with flecks of violet, this opaque, full-bodied Malbec has enticing spice floral notes spilling from the glass, exotic spice, dark fruit and a subtle earthy quality. Subtly framed, velvety and potent, there’s a core of plush black fruit and spicy replays along with hints of licorice, pepper and toasted oak. Full bodied, long and dry on the finish, it’s a great match now for grilled meats, but has potential for aging—this offers very good value. (Susan Desjardins)

Trivento ‘Amado Sur’ Malbec/Bonarda/Syrah 2013
Mendoza $16.95 (37036) 14.0% alcohol
Intensely opaque in the glass, sweet and fruity on the nose, this offers aromatic fruits and lovely complementary aromas of flowers, herbs and spice. Dry and medium-full bodied, the palate’s dominated by the wonderfully fresh texture and wash of tasty, fresh cherry/berry fruit. Supple tannin adds balance, while savoury notes of earth and minty herbs bring complexity. Ripe with fruit, fresh through the finish, this is a lively, tasty red blend. (Susan Desjardins)

Trapiche ‘Broquel’ Bonarda 2013
Mendoza $14.95 (55558) 14.0% alcohol
Widely planted in Mendoza, Bonarda is a lesser-known grape variety showcasing its great qualities in this value-laden red. Inky and dense, it offers notes of smoke and herbs, a touch of sweet vanilla and lush dark fruit aromas. Dry, full bodied, it has weight and impact, yet remains approachable. Perceptible tannin and fine acidity offer a well-defined frame for the deeply flavourful rich fruit—plum, blackberry and cherry. Mouth coating and savoury on the finish, this is a great choice for meat-based pasta or grilled meats. (Susan Desjardins)

Chile

Santa Alicia ‘Gran Reserva de los Andes ‘Cabernet Sauvignon 2011

Maipo Valley $15.95 (60244) 14.0% alcohol

The deep purple hue of this wine foreshadows the depth of fruit aromas and flavours; on the nose there are blueberry and blackberry jam, mint, smoke and spice aromas. The palate offers concentrated plush black fruit complemented by supple tannins, toasty oak, and remarkably good freshness. Big, dry and full bodied, this is very good value and a good choice for roast beef. (Susan Desjardin)

Casa Silva ‘Cool Coast’ Sauvignon Blanc 2014
Colchagua Valley $16.95 (419812) 13.0% alcohol
This is an excellent example of Chilean winemakers’ venture into new areas as they offer cool-climate wines. The lovely alluring aromas bring together notes of white flowers and subtle tropical notes paired with bright citrus and delicate herbs. Dry, medium bodied, there’s a racy, tangy backbone with loads of fresh lemon-lime, mineral and herbal flavours and refined silkiness to the texture. Finishing with length and vibrancy, this is a uniquely flavourful and well-balanced Sauvignon Blanc at a great value. (Susan Desjardins)

Santa Carolina ‘Specialties Dry Farming’ Carignan 2011
Cauquenes Valley $17.95 (213520) 15.0% alcohol
Grapes used in this limited-edition red were harvested from 80-year-old vines grown without irrigation ensuring the great concentration of fruit character found in this powerful, full-bodied gem. Aromas abound—spiced rose, red berry jam, blackberry and blueberry, leather and sweet spice. Plush and velvety, remarkably fresh in texture, the palate is awash with intense flavours of black berry, plum and cherry while the oak aging adds notes of coffee, toast and spice. Long and rich on the finish, enjoy this with rare, prime rib. (Susan Desjardins)

Feature: DOC Douro, Portugal

Burmester ‘Vinho Tinto’ 2012
DOC Douro $16.95 (114413) 13.5% alcohol
This red blend of premium Port grapes—Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca and Tinta Roriz—delivers a delicate nose of mixed spice, savory herbs and field berry aromas. It coats the palate with a medium-plus bodied mouthful of plum pudding, ripe berry fruit and red cherry intertwined with toasty oak and underpinned by still-evolving tannin. Aerate/decant three hours before pouring alongside grilled, well-seasoned steak. (Vic Harradine)

Pomares ‘Tinto’ 2011
DOC Douro $16.95 (214007) 13.5% alcohol
This red blend—Tinto translates to Red—was sourced from older vines of premium Port grapes— Tinta Roriz, Touriga Franca, Touriga Nacional—and a part of the blend aged six months in French and American oak barrels. Lively aromas of piquant spice and red cherry herald a tang-laden streak of pie cherry and red plum nicely balanced with cassis and sweet vanilla on the palate infusing the aftertaste. This is a balanced, structured, crowd-friendly red that’ll really shine with pasta in beef fajitas, red pizza or cheese and salsa tacos. (Vic Harradine)

• It would be difficult to overstate the Symington family’s influence on the Douro region of Portugal—they pioneered the development of DOC table wine in the Douro—and, specifically the Port industry. They can trace their Portuguese ancestry back, through the current generation’s great-grandmother, some 350 years. Winemaker, Charles Symington, is a Symington-family, 5th-generation, Douro winemaker. They’re responsible for approximately one-third of all premium Port production and own, amongst others, Dow’s, Graham’s, Cockburn’s, Warre’s, as well as one of the Douro’s iconic vineyard estates, Quinta do Vesúvio. The wine following the Altano, Vale Do Bomfim, is also part of the Symington family’s extensive holdings.

Symington ‘Altano’ 2013
DOC Douro $12.95 (579862) 13.5% alcohol
A value-laden, red blend of premium Port grapes—Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz, Tinta Barroca—aromas of mixed spice, dark berry fruit and wisps of lilac drift easily from the glass. A lively, juicy stream of red and black cherry blends well with notions of blueberry pie filling. It’s medium weight with ripe tannin, good mouth feel and a fruit-forward, balanced finish. It’s good to go now and pours well with lasagna or steak and kidney pie. (Vic Harradine)

Vale Do Bomfim 2013
DOC Douro $15.95 (167676) 14.0% alcohol
Perfumed aromas of tobacco, charred toast, grilled savory herbs and berry fruit abound. A rich, succulent torrent of sweet, ripe mulberry, black plum and dried currant coats the palate in this value-packed beauty. It’s a blend of 40% Tinta Barroca, 20% Touriga Franca, 20% Touriga Nacional, 10% Tinta Roriz, 10% Tinto Cão sourced from the vineyards of Dow’s premium Port wine, Quinta Do Bomfim. This is full bodied and fully textured with a long, lip-smacking finish. Back up the van, it’s drinking well now to 2019. (Vic Harradine)

The Main Release

Champagne

Delouvin-Bagnost ‘Tradition’ Brut Champagne Non-Vintage

AOC Champagne $44.95 (385369) 12.0% alcohol

Lifted leesy/yeasty aromas mingle with hazelnut on the nose of this fruit-forward gem. Ripe apple and poached pear roll over the palate with a profusion of fine-bead mousse. There’s good mouth feel and the crisp refreshing finish cleans up nicely with a blaze of mouth-watering tang. Not your typical Champagne as flavour and quality punch well above the price. Don’t be shy in picking up a couple for when guests drop by. (Vic Harradine)

Sparkling Wine

Domaine Louis Bouillot ‘Perle d’Aurore’ Brut Rosé Non-Vintage

AOC Crémant de Bourgogne $19.95 (048793) 12.0% alcohol

Domaine Louis Bouillot has been producing sparkling wine since 1877; this is a blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Pale-salmon hued, it’s absolutely delightful—a medium-bodied sparkler that’s fruity and dry. From subtle aromas of summer berries, spice and brioche through to the delicate creamy mousse that refreshes the palate, it offers light, red berry flavours and a lengthy mouth-watering finish. Great value, enjoy on its own wiling away an afternoon or pour with smoked salmon. (Susan Desjardins)

Ontario: White Wine

 
Strewn ‘Terroir’ Riesling 2013
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $17.95 (467613) 12.4% alcohol
Aromas of white flowers meld with sweet citrus notes and a notion of wet stone on the nose. Dry and silky in texture, this medium-bodied wine offers flavours of lime and tangerine and a dash of white pepper and exotic spicy notes on the palate. Fresh acidity plays out on the juicy, clean finish. Pour with roast pork with a creamy mushroom sauce. (Susan Desjardins)

Okanagan Valley: White Wine

 
Blue Mountain Chardonnay 2014
VQA Okanagan Valley $24.95 (350108) 13.0% alcohol
With a deservedly sterling reputation for fine sparkling wine, the winery showcases its talent with Chardonnay here—the Blue Mountain Gold Label Sparkling Brut (206326) was released in Vintages in November and still has limited availability. On the nose, there are layered aromas of citrus, tree fruit and white flowers with hints of spice and mineral. Beautifully balanced with all elements in harmony and satiny fresh in texture, the palate replays citrus and crisp apple with a smidge of spice through the invigorating and lasting finish—sip and savour. (Susan Desjardins)

Okanagan Valley: Red Wine

 
See Ya Later Ranch Pinot Noir 2013
VQA Okanagan Valley $19.95 (230078) 13.5% alcohol
This is an impressive Pinot Noir combining the earthy aromas of beetroot with fragrant red fruit, spiced rose and subtle toast. Dry and light-medium bodied, the earthy character is overlaid on the palate with tangy red fruit—berries and pomegranate—and framed by perceptible tannin and clean, lively acidity. Lip-smacking and savoury, it offers delicate notes of toast and vanilla through the tangy finish. It’s excellent value to be enjoyed with roast salmon or duck confit. (Susan Desjardins)

California: White Wine

Gnarly Head Viognier 2013

California $17.95 (396416) 13.5% alcohol

Unoaked, this stylish lively Viognier offers rich lifted aromas of apricot, ripe peach, white flowers and spice. Dry, medium-full bodied, it’s richly fruity on the palate, with a touch of spice and that characteristic note of attractive bitterness on the finish. Well crafted and nicely balanced, it’s a pleasing, approachable wine that will complement roast chicken or turkey casserole. (Susan Desjardins)

California: Red Wine

Francis Coppola ‘Diamond Collection Blue Label’ Merlot 2013
California $12.95 375 mL (250001) 13.5% alcohol
Toasty oak, mocha and dark berry fruit aromas swirl from this medium-bodied, creamy-smooth red. A balanced and beautiful river of delicious black currant, sweet vanilla and cassis interweave with savory herbs and tangy red raspberry on the palate and lip-smacking aftertaste. This is medium-bodied with good mouth feel and plenty of structure and charm. Pour with grilled red meat. (Vic Harradine)

• The iconic Jess Jackson founded the following winery with his wife and family in 1981. Jess passed in 2011, but it, and dozens of other wineries, remains in the hands of Jackson’s family heirs, including his 2nd wife of many years, Barbara Banke. He began his winemaking career eschewing the term ‘terroir’; he blended wines from various regions. However, this changed in early 2000.

Kendall-Jackson ‘Vintner’s Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2013
Sonoma County $22.95 (331603) 14.5% alcohol
Piquant spice, toast, oak and savory herb aromas set the table for a smorgasbord of palate-coating flavour with black and red currant to the fore interlaced with espresso roast, sweet vanilla and wisps of pie cherry. It’s medium-full bodied with good mouth feel and a balanced, dry, mouth-watering finish. Pour alongside pastitsio. (Vic Harradine)

Lander-Jenkins Cabernet Sauvignon 2013
California $18.95 (161398) 13.0% alcohol
Lifted aromas of eucalyptus, grilled herbs and red and black fruit abound from this medium-plus bodied California Cab. It races across the palate with solid line of tang-laden red currant and cranberry interwoven with savory herbs and still-evolving tannin. Aerate/decant a couple of hours pouring with pasta in tomato sauce or pepperoni pizza. (Vic Harradine)

Oregon: White Wine

Duck Pond Cellars Pinot Gris 2014
Willamette Valley $19.95 (33286) 14.0% alcohol
Here’s a lovingly crafted wine that’s a great value. The Fries family is focused on their craft and, as one of the pioneers of winemaking in the Willamette Valley, knows how to bring out all the subtle flavours of Pinot Gris. Lifted floral notes and a whiff of spice drift from the glass, mingling with aromas of stone fruit, lime and musk melon. There’s a well-defined backbone of vibrant acidity framing this dry, medium-bodied gem, the ripe stone fruit flavours, melon and lively citrus dance across the palate. The sweetness of the fruit persists on the lengthy, juicy, tasty finish—great verve and character. (Susan Desjardins)

Oregon: Red Wine

Willamette Valley Vineyards ‘Estate’ Pinot Noir 2013
Willamette Valley $45.95 (974287) 13.4% alcohol
Pinot lovers take note. Transparent garnet and totally alluring, this offers floral and sweet herbal notes, red cherry and milk chocolate aromas. Showing refinement and harmony, this dry, silky, medium-bodied wine is beautifully crafted, built with subtle structural bones and well-integrated oak. Clean flavours of cherry and tangy cranberry are enhanced with notes of sweet spice and creamy, rich, milk chocolate. This has great depth of flavour and is deliciously long on the finish. (Susan Desjardins)

Australia: Red Wine

• The following wine’s fruit was sourced from an area dubbed, ‘Victoria’s High Country’—generally speaking high-altitude wines have a higher diurnal temperature range meaning there is a widened spread between the highs of the daily temperature and the cool of the night allowing fruit to remain on the vine longer to ripen—you’ll find vineyards at 150m to 650m here, low humidity, hills strewn with granite boulders, granitic soils and the near-perfect meso climate for crisp, well-balanced wine. The name of this wine tells a story—the ‘Stone Dwellers’ were the aboriginal people who originally lived here amongst the huge granite boulders.

Fowles ‘Stone Dwellers’ Shiraz 2013
Strathbogie Ranges, Victoria $19.95 (265967) 14.0% alcohol
This is very good value. Complex aromas of cedar, savory herbs and red cherry unleash a torrent of red current, briary black berry and chocolate-dipped black cherry. This is juicy, medium bodied, nicely textured and well balanced with a finish of cherry pie filling and blueberry jam. Pour alongside grilled strip loin. (Vic Harradine)

Jim Jim ‘The Down-Underdog’ Shiraz 2013

McLaren Vale $15.95 (682005) 14.5% alcohol

Black fruit aromas combined with a little dustiness follow through on the full-bodied palate. There’s a little ground pepper, tobacco and mint underlying the blackberries but it all adds to the complexity of this lovely Shiraz and its medium finish with just the right touch of juiciness—another great value Shiraz. Pick up a couple of bottles for your next dinner party and serve with Moroccan lamb tagine and couscous. (Julie Stock)

Wakefield Cabernet Sauvignon 2013
Clare Valley, South Australia $17.95 (744235) 14.0% alcohol
Clare Valley is a premium, cooler-climate Australian wine region. Cherry/berry aromas mingle with minty notes, cedar and baking spice before spilling over the palate with a medium-full bodied, nicely textured flow of bramble berry, cassis and dark bittersweet chocolate. This finishes with good purity of fruit, dry, lengthy and mouth-watering with wisps of soft tannin and replays of fruit with baking spice and savory herbs. Still evolving, aerate/decant for two-hours before serving. (Vic Harradine)

New Zealand: White Wine

Nautilus Chardonnay 2013
Marlborough, South Island $26.95 (331652) 13.0% alcohol
Apple pie spice and ripe pear mingle with flinty/mineral notes on the nose of this delectable Chardonnay. This family-owned winery sources grapes from two vineyards, both with gravelly soils that contribute to the mineral aspects in the finished wine. A spice-laden river of nectarine, green apple and grilled pineapple coat the palate, medium bodied and generously textured. There’s structure, minerality, persistent purity of fruit and a lingering balanced aftertaste laced with racy, tangy lemon curd flavour. Good to go now and pours well with roast chicken or pork roast. (Vic Harradine)

South Africa: White Wine

Porcupine Ridge Sauvignon Blanc 2015
WO Western Cape $13.95 (126797) 12.5% alcohol
If you love Sauvignon Blanc, this just might be your value wine of the year. Produced by one of South Africa’s pioneers, with vineyards set in the foothills of the Franschhoek area, this wine has lovely complexity on the nose—white flowers, subtle tropical notes of passion fruit and pineapple join tangerine and lovely herbal notes of nettles and bay leaf. Vividly fresh, balanced and tasty, the flavours include citrus, passion fruit and elusive notes of crisp, green veggies. The lingering finish entices you to another sip of this dry, medium-bodied jewel. (Susan Desjardins)

France: White Wine

Mallory & Benjamin Talmard Mâcon-Uchizy 2014
AOC Mâcon-Uchizy $16.95 (733956) 13.0% alcohol
Only white wine is allowed in this southern Burgundy AOC and must be produced from Chardonnay. Aromas of citrus, baking spice and Bosc pear herald a rich, luscious stream of tropical fruit, yellow peach and Meyer lemon bathing the palate. This is medium-plus bodied with good mouth feel and a long, luscious aftertaste. A perennial favourite, it’s flavour- and value-packed pouring well with rotisserie chicken, veal or pork cutlets, or white pizza. (Vic Harradine)

France: Red Wine

• The grapes grown on the estate of the following wine are primarily Merlot and Cabernet Franc with a splash of Cabernet Sauvignon. AOC Saint-Émilion is close by and this winery somewhat mirrors the overall plantings of that appellation—60% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Franc, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. If you’ve tasted Saint-Émilion and enjoyed it, or want to have a similar experience without the usual price tag, then here’s a wine you’ll definitely want to pick up given the price-quality balance tipped well in your favour.

Château des Demoiselles 2010
AOC Castillon - Côtes de Bordeaux $17.95 (348755) 14.0% alcohol
This is smooth and mellow with gobs of ripe fruit. Sweet vanilla, floral notes and spice box aromas on the nose, it coats the palate with a balanced, fruit-driven, medium-bodied stream of black currant, cassis and luscious kirsch liqueur. With just enough tannin for structure and a lingering, tang-laden, lip-smacking finish, it’s a compelling buy. This sips well on its own with the heft to pair well with hearty stew or grilled steak. (Vic Harradine)

• The following, stunning, medium-full bodied, 55% Grenache, 39% Syrah, 6% Mourvèdre red blend was hand harvested from low-yielding, 50-year-old vines, partially de-stemmed, left on skins 4-5 weeks and aged 15-18 months in concrete vat then left unfined and unfiltered when bottled.

Les Amouriers ‘Signature’ Vacqueyras 2012
AOP Vacqueyras $26.95 (381038) 14.5% alcohol
Grilled savory herbs and dark berry fruit aromas abound. Rich and luscious flavour bathes the palate—red and black currant, dark cherry and ripe mulberry entwine with piquant spice and a supple tannin underpinning. Flavours replay on the long finish. Aerate/decant for three hours and pour with manicotti or prawn and chorizo paella. This flirted with 5 stars, if the price is in your wheelhouse, pick up a few. (Vic Harradine)

Italy: White Wine

Luna Nuda Pinot Grigio 2014
IGT Vigneti delle Dolomiti $15.95 (401232) 12.5% alcohol
There’s good value in this medium-weight, nicely textured Pinot Grigio. Aromas of lemon-lime and floral notes introduce a gorgeous wash of lemon curd, quince jelly and ripe pear bathing the palate, persisting through the lengthy, lip-smacking finish. There’s good balance and oodles of flavour that’ll pair well with either grilled chicken in creamy white sauce over pasta or in a Caesar salad. (Vic Harradine)

Michele Chiarlo ‘Le Marne’ Gavi 2014
DOCG Gavi $17.95 (228528) 12.0% alcohol
This dishes up a quiet nose of mineral and floral notes entwined with ripe orchard fruit before streaking over the palate and infusing the finish with racy tang—crisp Granny Smith apple, lemon curd and Key lime galore. This is light on its feet with a lengthy, balanced aftertaste that matches up nicely to pan-seared of grilled fish or sea food. (Vic Harradine)

Italy: Red Wine

Ilauri ‘Le Pinciaie’ Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 2013
DOC Montepulciano d’Abruzzo $17.95 (396663) 13.5% alcohol
Aromas of tobacco leaf, earthy notes and spiced plum pudding provide segue for a lively wash pie cherry and cranberry mingling with spice and smoky/charred herbs. This is medium weight with decent texture and dry, racy mouth-watering aftertaste. Pour with spaghetti Bolognese or red pizza. (Vic Harradine)

• The following wine is crafted from Nero d’Avola, a black grape indigenous to Sicily and named after the small town, Avola, on the south-eastern tip of the island although it has now spread over the entire island and is Sicily’s most important red wine grape. It’s often compared to New World Shiraz with peppery, plum flavours and unobtrusive, even sweet, tannin.

Caruso & Minini ‘Terre Di Giumara’ Nero D’Avola 2013
IGT Sicilia $14.95 (174722) 13.5% alcohol
A 30% portion of this hand-harvested beauty was aged a brief four months in large, seasoned barrels. Red and black berry-fruit aromas robed in wood smoke waft from the nose. A medium-plus bodied gusher of black currant and ripe mulberry coat the palate garnished with spice and earthy notes. It’s creamy smooth with a balanced and delectable aftertaste. This offers excellent value. (Vic Harradine)

Carpineto Chianti Classico ‘Riserva’ 2010
DOCG Chianti Classico $29.95 (47118) 13.5% alcohol
Stewed plum, pipe tobacco and charred toast aromas introduce a tang-laden, racy stream of pie cherry and cranberry with earthy bits on the palate. It’s medium bodied with persistent fruit throughout and plenty of nerve and verve. It showcases good construction, lively, juicy flavour and a lip-smacking finish. Pour with pastitsio or tomato, rice and meat-stuffed, oven-baked bell pepper. (Vic Harradine)

Fattoria Dei Barbi Brunello Di Montalcino 2010
DOCG Brunello Di Montalcino $49.95 (928028) 14.5% alcohol
The highly-rated 2010 vintage is on display here. A splendid nose of cedar, black plum and tobacco precede a delightful wash of dried berry fruit, wisps of iodine and mineral tones along with excellent tang. It’s a medium-bodied, satin-smooth beauty showcasing depth, complexity and deft balance throughout. It finishes dry and mouth-watering with good tension. A drinking window of 2018 to 2025 is forecasted. (Vic Harradine

Spain: Red Wine

Señoría De P. Peciña Crianza 2011
DOCa Rioja $22.95 (313726) 13.5% alcohol
The Tempranillo-dominant fruit was sourced from forty-year-old vines, indigenous-yeast fermented and aged 2 years in seasoned American-oak barrel before being bottled unfined and unfiltered and bottle aged a further 18 months before release. It’s inky-black hued and provides aromas of toasty notes, baking spice and dark berry fruit. It flows over the palate with a nicely textured wave of bramble berry and kirsch liqueur garnished with campfire smoke. This is well balanced with good depth and complexity and a lovely fruit-laced aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)

Tamaral Roble Tempranillo 2013
DO Ribera del Duero $16.95 (375766) 14.0% alcohol
Charred toast, ripe, cherry/berry fruit and mixed spice set the stage for a generously textured, persistent steam of flavour-filled ambrosia—dark Bing cherry, black currant and kirsch liqueur mingle with espresso roast, spice and tarry notes. This is medium weight with deft balance of ripe fruit and lively acidity and good structure with fine-grained tannin. The price-quality ratio is skewed well in your favour. (Vic Harradine)

Vinessens Sein 2011
DO Alicante $16.95 (391896) 15.0% alcohol
A 60% Mourvèdre/40% Syrah red blend, fruit was hand-harvested and hand-sorted before fermentation and malolactic conversion then aged 12 months in French and American oak barrel by this small, family-owned winery. Black cherry, baking spice and earthy notes are precursor to a surge of black cherry, black currant and kirsch liqueur. It’s medium weight with good texture and supple tannin frame. Aerate/decant two hours before serving—terrific value here. (Vic Harradine)

Upstream in Winecurrent

Vintages Release: February 6, 2016

Gerard Bertrand ‘Réserve Spéciale’ Viognier 2014
IGP Pays d’Oc $15.95 (147975) 13.0% alcohol
Perfumed, alluring aromas of honeysuckle, ripe pineapple and mandarin orange are precursor to a deftly balanced river of honey-brushed peach and pear, lemon pie filling, and a peach skin bite on the flavourful finish and aftertaste. This is medium weight with creamy mouth feel and offers excellent value. Pour on its own or alongside roast chicken or pan-seared pork medallions. (Vic Harradine)

Vintages Release: February 20, 2016

 
Henry of Pelham ‘Reserve’ Baco Noir 2013

VQA Ontario $24.95 (461699) 14.0% alcohol
Connoisseurs, collectors and wine-lovers like you and me eagerly await each release of this with cult-like enthusiasm—it never disappoints and this one is special. Lifted aromas of spice, charred toast and red and black cherry provide segue to a mid-full bodied gusher of black currant and black raspberry interlaced with dark chocolate-dipped black cherries. It’s creamy smooth, nicely structured and deftly balanced with a lingering aftertaste of piquant spice, blueberry pie filling and racy red cherry. It rested 18 months in one- and two-year-old American oak barrel, all of which is integrated. Pick up a few, drinking now to 2022. (Vic Harradine)

Vintages Release: TBA 2016

 
2027 Cellars ‘Aberdeen Road Vineyard’ Chardonnay 2013 

VQA Beamsville Bench $30.00 (421362) 12.8% alcohol 
Spice box, Key lime and persimmon aromas herald a mid-weight splendidly textured, medium-weight mouthful of tangy lemon-lime yoghurt, poached pear and spice-laden peach skin. This is crowd-friendly and delicious with all moving parts in synch—excellent tang balanced with ripe fruit, firm structure juxtaposed with soft creamy texture, striking individual aromas and flavours tempered with a lingering, pleasing finish and aftertaste. It’s like meeting up and spending time with an old friend. (Vic Harradine)

  
2027 Cellars ‘Wismer Vineyard-Fox Croft Block’ Chardonnay 2013 

VQA Twenty Mile Bench $30.00 (421362) 12.8% alcohol 

This striking Chardonnay opens with baking spice, flinty/minerality, oak and pastry aromas. It bathes the palate with a dazzling array of flavour with spiced, baked apple and lemon curd entwined with oaky notes and excellent tang. It’s medium-plus bodied with creamy-smooth mouth feel, complexity, structure, purity of fruit and is balanced on a pin. It was wild-yeast fermented, spending 14 months in 100% Burgundian oak barriques, 30% new. Serve 20 minutes after removing from the fridge or wine cellar to fully experience its beauty. (Vic Harradine)

 
2027 Cellars ‘Queenston Road Vineyard’ Pinot Noir 2013
VQA St. David’s Bench $35.00 (421370) 13.0% alcohol
Alluring aromas of cedar, exotic spice/incense and black Bing cherry open a complex, structured Pinot with depth and elegance. A medium-bodied, nicely textured stream of red currant, dark berry fruit and pomegranate interweave with chalky minerality and beetroot on the palate. Good tension, persistent purity of fruit and deft balance define this incredibly well-crafted red—it was indigenous-yeast fermented, aged 14 months in French-oak barriques, 30% new. Artisan-winemaker Kevin Panagapka hits all the high notes in this symphony of harmonious aromas and flavours. (Vic Harradine)

New in Vintages

The following winery—2027 Cellars—is one of a handful of Niagara’s virtual wineries. Kevin Panagapka is owner and winemaker. Kevin’s father, Don, is a Wine Judge of Canada and a master home winemaker. Apples don’t fall too far from the tree and Kevin began his wine career as a youngster—a ‘cellar hand’ for his dad at bottling time in the basement of their family home; he’s been around wine most of his life and it shows in the fabulous wine he’s now producing. His focus is on Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Riesling as he feels these are well suited—a good opportunity to ripen each year—to the macro-climate of the larger region and sources from carefully chosen, specific sites which he determines are optimum for each. Kevin purchases fruit from specific rows in premium vineyards and fully manages the viticulture aspects such as grape yield, leaf pulling and overall health of the vines. He bottles single-varietal table wines, most wild-yeast fermented and unfiltered, and also makes Vintage and Non-Vintage, traditional-method sparkling wine from a Pinot Noir/Chardonnay blend. As you’ll see above and below, his wines are stunning. They reach heights that place them amongst the best Canada produces. There are limited quantities in the Vintages or Ontario section in the LCBO of the following two wines—it’s worth the effort to source a few of each… and it’s worth acting quickly when the three above are finally released. The following two you can source now, but they won’t last long.

 
2027 Cellars ‘Wismer Vineyard-Fox Croft Block’ Chardonnay 2012 

VQA Twenty Mile Bench $30.00 (421362) 13.0% alcohol 

Delicate, alluring aromas of buttered toast, mineral notes and green apple presage a glorious, creamy mouthful of tang-laden flavour with peach, pear and lemon citrus to the fore. It’s medium weight, deftly balanced and stylish, even at this early stage. Flavours persist through the lingering aftertaste, focused and pure. Drinks beautifully now, will improve in bottle—consummate food wine, pour with pan-seared scallops or tuna, roast pork and more. Owner/winemaker Kevin Panagapka adds to his sterling reputation. (Vic Harradine) 

 
2027 Cellars ‘Queenston Road’ Pinot Noir 2012

VQA St. David’s Bench $35.00 (421370) 13.0% alcohol 

Here’s a fabulous Pinot with great purity of fruit, complexity, balance and delectable flavour. Funky aromas of earthiness, savory bits, spice and dark toast are pried from the subdued nose. Palate-coating flavours of juicy, tangy sour cherry and spice-infused black berry interweave with notions of anise and cocoa. It finishes with a balanced, complex replay of palate flavours garnished with ripe, supple tannin and charm—it was tough to spit. Good to go now and on to the early 2020s. (Vic Harradine)

Jean Leon ‘3055’ Merlot/Petit Verdot 2014

DO Penedès $18.95 (437699) 14.0% alcohol

From humble beginnings, ‘3055’ was Jean Leon’s number working as a cabbie in NYC. Aromas of mixed spice, sprigs of herbs and dried currant set the table for a racy line of red raspberry, pomegranate and passion fruit interweaving with red plum and strawberry on the palate of this very young, medium-bodied, organic, 60% Merlot/40% Petit Verdot red blend. It’s smooth, dry and refreshing, part of the wine spending just four months in oak. (Vic Harradine) 

New in the LCBO

•  Maverick Distillers of Oakville, Ontario produce Vodka in small-batch quantities. This craft producer is in its 7th successful year of operation. Tag No.5 Vodka is made from non-gmo, Ontario-grown, sweet corn that’s five times distilled then filtered five days through Ontario birch charcoal resulting in premium-quality, über-smooth Vodka at what turns out to be, a very attractive, affordable price.

• From now until January 31, 2016, take $1.00 off the price of Tag 5 Double Espresso Vodka shown below.

Tag No.5 ‘Ontario Grown – Double Espresso’ Vodka 

Product of Canada $26.35 (149567) 35.0% alcohol
Newly released, this is distilled from non-GMO corn in small batches with no artificial additives. Lifted aromas of caramel and espresso roast bean jump from the glass. It coats the palate with dazzling, intense flavour—rich, chocolate-covered coffee beans and piquant spice interweave with sweet, coffee liqueur infusing the finish and aftertaste. It’s an amazing experience poured in hot chocolate or coffee; you may want try a dribble over a bowl of vanilla ice cream. (Vic Harradine)

New in Winery Only

• Order the following Rockway wines by the case for delivery to your home, office or restaurant from Rockway Vineyards along with wines found in the previous, January 7, 2016 newsletter or pick up by the bottle or case from the winery at 3290 Ninth Street, St. Catharines, Ontario.

 
Rockway Vineyards ‘Small Lot Block 12-140’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2012

VQA Twenty Mile Bench $22.95 13.5% alcohol

Deep ruby, this wine beckons with a totally alluring whiff of chocolate, ripe berries and sweet spice, grilled almonds and dried herb aromas. Dry, medium-full bodied, firmly structured with perceptible tannin and a lively fresh texture, there are loads of raspberry and black berry fruit on the palate, notes of pepper, coffee and that elusive hint of chocolate lingering on a savoury, fresh finish. It’s a great candidate for cellaring or paired with rare roast beef. (Susan Desjardins)

 
Rockway Vineyards ‘Wild Ferment’ Red 2012

VQA Twenty Mile Bench $29.95 13.5% alcohol

Captivating aromas lift from the glass—tobacco, pepper, clove, concentrated berry and plum. This is an even-split blend of Syrah, Merlot and the Cabernets. It offers an elegant balance of firm tannin, fresh acidity and intense flavour—berries, black cherry and plum. There’s minerality, toasty notes of oak and a touch of bitter chocolate on the palate. Complex, dry and medium-full bodied, it’s full of character—a wine to savour as it evolves in the glass, on the palate and in the cellar. (Susan Desjardins)

 
Rockway Vineyards ‘Small Lot Block 12-140’ Syrah 2012
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $29.95 alcohol 13.5% alcohol
An almost perfect ‘Syrah vintage’ produced low-yielding, concentrated fruit that blossomed into this limited-production, thing of beauty. Aromas of grilled herbs, tobacco leaf and red berry fruit provide segue for a nicely balanced, medium-weight flow of black cherry and red currant interwoven with charred toast and a lingering note of cola. The oak’s well integrated and tannin is ripe and supple while the finish is delicious. It’s drinking well now and will on to 2019. (Vic Harradine)

 
Rockway Vineyards ‘Red Assemblage’ 2013
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $17.95 alcohol 13.5% alcohol
This red blend—54% Cabernet Franc, 31% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon—spent 18 months oak-barrel aging. Aromas of wood smoke, earthy notes and dark berry fruit herald juicy red currant and ripe strawberry rolling over the palate with wisps of mixed spice and passion fruit. It’s mid weight with good mouth feel and a dry, mouth-watering finish and aftertaste. Pour with hearty game stew, osso bucco or cassoulet. There’s solid fruit flavour, balance and good value here. (Vic Harradine)

• Purchase the following three Small Talk wines for daily home, office or restaurant delivery directly from Small Talk Vineyards along with wines found in the previous, January 7, 2016 newsletter or pick up from the winery by the bottle or case at 1242 Irvine Road, Niagara-on-the-Lake.

 
Small Talk ‘Burning Ambition’ Riesling 2013
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $16.95 13.0% alcohol
A quartet of aromas—mineral and citrus, tree fruit and white flowers—offer a pleasant introduction to this lively Riesling. Light-medium bodied, off-dry and tangy with flavours of grapefruit, citrus pith, green apple and mineral, this has soft texture paired with a nice level of clean acidity. The roundness of the fruit carries through on the finish as does that slightly bitter pithy note. It’s a good wine to pair with soft cheese or pan-fried pickerel under a squirt of fresh lemon. (Susan Desjardins)

 
Small Talk ‘Conversation’ Pinot Noir 2013
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $19.95 12.5% alcohol
Garnet in hue, earthy on the nose, this cool climate-styled Pinot offers notions of beetroot, red fruit, spice and cedar. Dry, on the light side of medium bodied, there’s freshness and brightness to the texture, subtle tannin to frame the tasty cherry fruit, notes of toasty oak and sweet spice adding a further dimension to the finish—it spent 12 months in new French oak barrel and 12 more in stainless steel tank. Serve with chicken in creamy mushroom sauce. (Susan Desjardins)

 
Small Talk Vineyards ‘Dessert Anyone?’ Riesling Icewine 2011
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $35.00 200 mL 11.5% alcohol
Lifted aromas of honeyed pit fruit and floral notes mingle with tropical fruit. It bathes the palate with a sweet, unctuous stream of buckwheat honey, yellow peach, apricot and mango with replays infusing the finish and aftertaste. This is medium weight and nicely textured with plenty of charm. A perfect size for a romantic evening for two, it could be sipped as the dessert or poured with fruit flan. (Vic Harradine)

• The following two wines are available by the case for daily home, office or restaurant delivery online at Tawse Winery along with wines found in previous December 8, 2015 and January 7, 2016 newsletters or pick up by the bottle or case at the winery at 3955 Cherry Ave, Vineland ON.

 
Tawse ‘Cherry Ave Vineyard’ Pinot Noir 2013
VQA Twenty Mile Creek $59.95 13.0% alcohol
Descriptors like elegant, sophisticated and graceful come to mind for this perennial favourite; it’s lighter styled and quite delicious. Floral notes, baking spice and charred toast aromas garnished with red cherry/berry fruit waft from this Certified, organic/biodynamic beauty. A light-medium-weight flow of racy red currant is balanced beautifully with kirsch liqueur and wisps of mocha bathing the palate before infusing the dry, mouth-watering aftertaste. It’s drinking well now and on to 2019. (Vic Harradine)

 
Tawse ‘Lauritzen Vineyard’ Pinot Noir 2013
VQA Vinemount Ridge $44.95 12.5% alcohol
This opens with aromas of pipe tobacco, currant and flinty/smoky notes and showcases good structure and persistent purity of fruit throughout. The hand-harvested, organic/biodynamic-farmed grapes spent 16 months in French oak barrel. It delivers a medium-bodied, palate-bathing wash of tangy pie cherry and black plum mingling with racy raspberry and baking spice while the lingering finish and aftertaste manifest excellent tension and lip-smacking, red-fruit flavour. (Vic Harradine)

Cheers, Vic and Susan