October 28, 2015 Newsletter

Newsletter highlights include:

• Exceptional value wine   – 2 of 54 wines reviewed meet the strict quality-price guidelines, all identified throughout the newsletter—priced between $15.95 and $21.95. What strict guidelines?  Click here.
• 5-star Wine – four wines rang the 5-star bell - 2027 Cellars ‘Queenston Road’ Pinot Noir 2012 @ $35.00 under Ontario: Red Wine; Stoneleigh ‘Latitude’ Sauvignon Blanc 2014 
@ $21.95 under New Zealand: White Wine; Domaine de Vieux Télégraphe ‘Télégramme’ Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2013 @ $46.95 under France: Red Wine and Henry of Pelham Riesling Icewine 2014 @ $49.95 under New in Vintages.
• Susan Selects – Muskoka Lakes Winery Red Maple 2012 earning 4 stars @ $24.95 under Dessert Wine and Henry of Pelham ‘Estate’ Pinot Noir 2010 earning 4½ stars @ 24.95 under Ontario: Red Wine
• Julie’s Jewel – Concha Y Toro ‘Terrunyo Vineyard Selection’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 earned 4½ stars @ $29.95 under Chile: Red Wine.
• Vic Picks – Le Volte dell’Ornellaia 2013 earned 4½ stars @ $29.95 under Feature: Tuscany and 2027 Cellars ‘Queenston Road’ Pinot Noir 2012 earning 5 stars @ $35.00 under Ontario: Red Wine

Access the LCBO store nearest you with stock of any wine with an LCBO product number by clicking on the number shown in brackets in wine reviews then clicking on select stores and entering your postal code. The number of bottles available in each store near you is displayed. For Vintages Release wines, stock should be displayed the Friday before a Saturday release, some stores post earlier. For LCBO wines, it should closely reflect stock in stores, updated every 24 hours. It’s always best to phone first.

Feature: Tuscany

Poggiotondo Brunello Di Montalcino 2010
DOCG Brunello Di Montalcino $37.95 (276576) 14.0% alcohol
Involved aromas of grilled herbs, cherry and leather introduce an array of flavour—black plum compote, ripe, dark berry fruit and sweet vanilla. It’s medium-bodied with deft balance, good texture and no shortage of style, even elegance. There’s a perceptible tannin underpinning and lengthy finish of persistent fruit and good tang. Pop corks 2018 to 2027—it’ll improve with age. (Vic Harradine)

Ruffino ‘Modus’ 2011

IGT Toscana $29.95 (912956) 14.0% alcohol

Aromas of dark berry fruit, cola and sweet vanilla introduce a luscious, swirling tapestry of flavour—juicy black currant, cassis and tangy pomegranate interwoven with oodles of tangy red currant. This Super Tuscan—a red blend of 50% Sangiovese, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot—was hand harvested from low-yielding vines spending 12 months in small French and American oak casks. This is mid-plus bodied with good texture and fine-grained tannin underpinning. Good to pour now after a three-hour aeration/decant or carefully cellar two more years. (Vic Harradine)

Tenuta Sette Ponti ‘Oreno’ 2012
IGT Toscana $76.95 (735597) 14.0% alcohol
Tenuta translates to, Estate; ‘Oreno’ is their flagship wine, named for a river on the property. This red blend—Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot—aged 12 months in French oak barrel. Smoke, pipe tobacco and dark berry fruit open the floodgates for a tang-laden river of red currant and sour cherry mingling with earthy notes and wisps of espresso roast. It’s medium-plus weight with good mouth feel and a long, lip-smacking finish. Aerate/decant three hours if you must open now, better to pop corks 2018 – 2028. (Vic Harradine)

Le Volte dell’Ornellaia 2013

IGT Toscana $29.95 (964221) 13.5% alcohol

Perennially a great buy in terms of the price-quality ratio, this red blend—50% Merlot, 30% Sangiovese, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon—leaps from the glass with aromas of baking spice, dark berry fruit and floral notes of lilac. Balanced, palate-bathing flavours of mint-infused black currant and black plum mingle with tangy red currant and mocha persisting through the lengthy, fruit-filled aftertaste. Drinking now, it pours and pairs well with grilled rack of lamb or grilled beef steak. (Vic Harradine)

Piazzano Chianti 2013
DOCG Chianti $14.95 (393199) 13.5% alcohol
This is 80% Sangiovese with the balance various, wild-yeast fermented, indigenous grape varieties. Mixed spice, pine needles and berry fruit on the nose, this dishes up a fruit-filled mouthful of red pie cherry, dried currant and excellent tang. It’s mid-weight with good mouth feel and a lengthy dry finish of red currant and black cherry mingling with spice and grilled herbs. This punches well above the price and warrants your serious consideration. Pour with pasta and something tomato-based or with red pizza. (Vic Harradine)

Tenuta San Guido ‘Le Difese’ 2013
IGT Toscana $28.95 (147876) 13.0% alcohol
Fruit—70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Sangiovese—sourced from the estate of the iconic ‘Super Tuscan’ Sassicaia, was hand-picked, wild-yeast fermented and aged 12 months in French and American oak barrel used previously for Sassicaia. The delicate nose of floral notes, herbs and spice lead the way to a spice-driven rush of red cherry and currant interlaced with blueberry and baking spice. It’s mid weight with good focus and persistent purity of fruit through the savory finish and aftertaste—fine-grained tannin adds structure and interest. (Vic Harradine)

The Main Release

Fortified Wine: Sherry


Gonzalez Byass ‘Nutty Solera’ Oloroso Sherry 

DO Jerez-Xérès-Sherry $15.95 (35204) 20.0% alcohol

This is one the great bargains and most over-looked treasures on wine store shelves. Flamboyant aromas of dark spice, figs, currants and peel marmalade explode from the glass of this delicious nectar. This is half the fair price for wine of this quality. The ripe sweet flavours—caramel, marmalade, toasted almonds and toffee—turn, magically, almost dry on the lingering finish. Serve chilled, as an aperitif or conversation starter or with spice cake for afters. (Vic Harradine)

Champagne

Bollinger ‘Special Cuvée’ Brut Champagne Non-Vintage

AOC Champagne $79.95 (384529) 12.0% alcohol

This has great sense of purpose with a fine-bead mousse. It rides a streak of lemon curd and Key lime garnished with minerality, blood orange and honeyed pit fruit, the latter making an appearance on the clean crisp and refreshing finish and aftertaste. Bollinger are considered by many to be at or near the pinnacle of Champagne producers. (Vic Harradine)

Sparkling Wine

 
Jackson-Triggs ‘Entourage Grand Reserve Brut’ 2011

VQA Niagara Peninsula $24.95 (234161) 12.5% alcohol

This much be-medalled beauty is Pinot Noir dominant, made in the method of Champagne with a price-quality balance that tips well in your favour. A subdued nose of floral and citrus notes portend a smooth flow of firm and focused flavour with apple, ripe pear and white nectarine to the fore. It’s well balanced with good texture and a zippy, refreshing finish. Pour alongside roast chicken, turkey or pork. (Vic Harradine) 

Dessert Wine

  

Muskoka Lakes Winery Red Maple 2012

Product of Canada $24.95 (50039) 375ml 15.0% alcohol 

This fortified dessert-wine treat adds maple syrup to the cranberry wine after fermentation. The fruit shines through, with interesting notes of smoke, earth and spice. It’s lush, sweet and fresh in texture; the purity of the cranberry and its zesty acidity shines through. This is a great marriage of the mouth-filling sweetness of maple and crisp tartness of cranberry. Enjoy with a chocolate dessert. (Susan Desjardins)

Ontario: White Wine

  
Fielding Estate Riesling 2014

VQA Beamsville Bench $19.95 (251439) 10.5% alcohol

Lifted floral notes mingle with orchard fruit, hints of lime and tangerine along with a whiff of wet stone. Off-dry and mid-weight, this citrusy Riesling offers up a lovely mineral character and clean, juicy acidity that present a fine counterpoint to the ripe, sweet fruit. There’s great balance and freshness throughout. Serve on its own or with soft cheese. (Susan Desjardins)

Ontario: Red Wine

   
2027 Cellars ‘Queenston Road’ Pinot Noir 2012

VQA St. David’s Bench $35.00 (421370) 13.0% alcohol 

Here’s a fabulous Pinot with great purity of fruit, complexity, balance and delectable flavour. Funky aromas of earthiness, savory bits, spice and dark toast are pried from the subdued nose. Palate-coating flavours of juicy, tangy sour cherry and spice-infused black berry interweave with notions of anise and cocoa. It finishes with a balanced, complex replay of palate flavours garnished with ripe, supple tannin and charm—it was tough to spit. Good to go now and on to the early 2020s. (Vic Harradine)  

  
Cattail Creek ‘Small Lot Series’ Pinot Noir 2009
VQA Four Mile Creek $24.95 (275628) 12.5% alcohol
Clear garnet, this single-vineyard Pinot offers delicate floral notes, red berry and dried cherry, hints of vanilla, exotic spice and earth. Dry, medium bodied, there’s lively acidity and soft tannin to frame the tangy red fruit—sour cherry and cranberry to the fore. Notes of white pepper and spice offer an attractive complement to the fruit, the earthy note an underlying thread. Balanced, with a clean finish, you’ll enjoy this with roast pork, or turkey with cranberry sauce. (Susan Desjardins)

  
Creekside Estate ‘Laura’s’ Red 2012
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (117960) 13.5% alcohol
This complex blend offers an orchestrated chorus of aromas and flavours including ripe black fruit, mineral undertones, subtle notes of mint and licorice, cedar and vanilla. It’s a generous medium-full bodied red with a core of ripe dark fruits balanced by grippy tannins and refreshing acidity. The savory notes of spice, dried herbs and mineral emphasize the complexity, the long dry finish putting a spotlight on the fine balance of texture and rich fruit. It’s very approachable, versatile and a great value. Pair with autumn meals built around roast vegetables and full-flavoured meats. (Susan Desjardins)

  
Flat Rock ‘Gravity’ Pinot Noir 2013
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $29.95 (1560) 13.0% alcohol
Blended from the best barrels, this ruby gem offers an alluring nose of ripe red fruit, sweet spice, vanilla and elusive earthy quality. Dry, medium bodied, it’s silky in texture with a defined backbone of clean acidity and fine tannin. Flavours of red cherry and berries provide focus, mingling with mineral notes and a gentle touch of spicy toast. A pleasant warm peppery note garnishes the lengthy finish. Enjoy with roast duck. (Susan Desjardins)

  
Henry of Pelham ‘Estate’ Pinot Noir 2010
VQA Short Hills Bench $24.95 (268391) 13.5% alcohol
From one of Niagara’s great vintages, produced from the fruit of older, low yielding vines, this wine shows its pedigree with attractive and complex aromas and flavours. On the nose, earth, smoky notes, spice and ripe red fruit replay on the dry, medium-plus bodied palate. There’s a savoury quality to the wine, perceptible tannin, lively acidity and well-integrated oak. Showing complexity, weight, fresh texture, well-developed fruit flavours and a long, tasty, finish, this offers great value and versatility for matching with heavier meat or fowl dishes. (Susan Desjardins)

Okanagan Valley, BC: White Wine

  
Burrowing Owl Chardonnay 2013
VQA Okanagan Valley 34.95 (208694) 14.0% alcohol
Intensely aromatic, this fine, creamy Chardonnay offers lovely aromas of ripe pear and tropical fruit, spice, vanilla and toasted nut. Dry, medium-full bodied, the round texture and warmth caress the palate while ripe fruit, nuttiness and spice are matched with bright, lively acidity and subtle notes of toast. The warmth emphasizes the ripe fruit through the long finish. Enjoy with roast turkey. (Susan Desjardins)

New Zealand: White Wine

Eradus Sauvignon Blanc 2014

Awatere Valley, Marlborough, South Island $18.95 (225557) 13.0% alcohol

Marlborough is located in the NE corner of the South Island of New Zealand and is considered by many wine critics to produce the world’s best Sauvignon Blanc. There’s a TV, auto commercial with ‘zoom, zoom’, and it’s a good description for this racy wine. It’s medium bodied with fresh lemon-lime flavours, tangy and crisp, smooth and elegant. It won Gold at the International Wine Competition this year. Delicious on its own or with a wide variety of summer fare; there’s good backbone and flavour. (Julie Stock)

Stoneleigh ‘Latitude’ Sauvignon Blanc 2014

Marlborough, South Island, $21.95 (324228) 13.5% alcohol

As with the previous two vintages—also 5-stars—this was very tough to spit. It showcases purity of fruit, balance and structure. Gooseberry and citrus aromas mingle with nuances of slate/minerality on the nose. It streams laser-like across the palate with citrus acidity and mineral notes broadening out on the back palate with delectable white nectarine and apple. The careful handling of fruit and magical soils of the ‘Golden Mile’, where this hails from, hold all the answers. (Vic Harradine)

California: White Wine

• Fumé Blanc is a term for dry, California Sauvignon Blanc with nuanced oak influence, first used by Robert Mondavi back in the 60s with a nod to the Loire Valley, France, Sauvignon Blanc-specific, Pouilly-Fumé appellation. Urban legend has it the word ‘Fumé’ (smoke) stems from the smoky-bluish film forming on the grapes as they ripen and/or the gun-flint aromas. In fact, the late, great doyen of Pouilly-Fumé, Didier Dagueneau – l’enfant terrible – named one of his iconic wines, Silex, or in English, Flint. During the late 1970s and early 80s, Didier revolutionized winemaking in Pouilly-Fume, at first vilified, then admired, he stood fast with his ideas in the vineyard—hand-picked fruit, low yields, multiple passes through the vineyard at harvest—in the winery—meticulously clean and the overt use of oak, and in style—he made Sauvignon Blanc reflecting his style and worthy of aging. He passed far too soon in September, 2008.

Ferrari-Carano Fumé Blanc 2013
Sonoma County $23.95 (354993) 13.8% alcohol
All the fruit for this was fermented in stainless steel tank then 35% aged only one month in used French oak barrel with lees stirring once a week with the balance remaining in tank, all blended later—the barrel influence is nuanced, mostly in the smoky aroma and creamy smooth mouth feel. Aromas of smoky notes, savory herbs and honeydew melon herald a surge of white nectarine and lemon curd melding into a gorgeous expression of Fumé Blanc—it’s balanced, refreshing, stylish and lip-smacking good. (Vic Harradine)

Francis Ford Coppola ‘Director’s Cut’ Chardonnay 2013
Russian River Valley, Sonoma County $28.95 (128280) 14.5% alcohol
Baking spice, sweet vanilla and tropical fruit aromas introduce a medium-full bodied wash of lemon-pie filling and grilled pineapple riding a racy line of citrus acidity on the palate and through the crisp, refreshing aftertaste. This is nicely balanced with generous mouth feel pouring well with sole à la meunière. (Vic Harradine)

Robert Mondavi Fumé Blanc 2013
Napa Valley $22.95 (221887) 14.5% alcohol
Smoke and toast aromas mingle with floral and citrus notes before streaking across the palate in this lighter-styled version of Sauvignon Blanc; along with a splash of Semillon here. It’s light-medium bodied with good flavour—racy lemon-lime and green apple along with nuances of toasty oak. It finishes crisp and tangy on the mid-length aftertaste. Pan-seared fish under a squeeze of fresh lemon pairs well. (Vic Harradine)

California: Red Wine

Cliff Lede Cabernet Sauvignon 2012
Stags Leap District, Napa Valley $108.95 (14217) 15.3% alcohol
This Bordeaux blend—78% Cab Sauv, 8% Petit Verdot, 6% Cab Franc, 5% Malbec, 3% Merlot—reaches out with heady aromas of black currant, dark chocolate and bramble berry pie. It coats the palate with a teeth-staining river of cassis, kirsch liqueur and black juicy cherry interwoven with bittersweet chocolate and hints of truffles. Medium-plus bodied with generous texture it finishes lengthy and fruit forward with a soft tannin underpinning. Drink now and on to 2026. (Vic Harradine)

Folie à Deux Zinfandel 2012
Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma County $26.95 (147231) 14.8% alcohol
From one of the top Zin appellations in the U.S. with its well-drained stony soils, it’s also one of the smallest—16 miles long and barely 2 miles wide. Zinfandel was first planted in Dry Creek Valley in the 1870’s by Italian immigrants. This is balanced, shows good purity of fruit and matches a fruit-forward personality with delectable tang-laden acidity. Aromas and flavours of peppery notes, baking spice and dark berry fruit—ripe mulberry, juicy black currant and bramble berry pie—meld into an explosion of fruit, piquant spice and tang. It spent 15 months in mostly seasoned French and American oak. This oozes charm on the lengthy aftertaste with every glass as good or better than the previous. (Vic Harradine)

Oregon: White Wine

Adelsheim Pinot Gris 2013
Willamette Valley $27.95 (27524) 13.0% alcohol
Here’s an excellent example of the intensity and balance to be found in Willamette Valley, Pinot Gris. Great aromatics include honeyed melon, pear, mineral notes and a whiff of spice. There’s good depth in the fruit flavours, replaying melon, pear and the hint of spice, paired with refreshing, citrus acidity. Vibrant and lively yet round in texture and lasting on the finish, it’s a delight on the palate. Serve with crown roast of pork, seared scallops or halibut. (Susan Desjardins)

Washington State: Red Wine

Chateau Ste. Michelle ‘Indian Wells’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2012

Wahluke Slope, Grant County $25.95 (55764) 14.5% alcohol

Smooth and mellow throughout with absolutely no rough edges—it’s pure pleasure in a glass. If your preferences tend toward full-bodied, fruit-forward reds, often described as having dark berry fruit, or berry pie flavours with creamy smooth mouth feel and sweet vanilla, black licorice, coffee or dark chocolate in the background, this is for you. It’s also polished and balanced with a lengthy aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)

Argentina: White Wine

 
Pascual Toso Chardonnay 2014
Mendoza, $15.95 (162636) 13.5 % alcohol
This is amazing Chardonnay for the price; it oozes personality. Honeysuckle aromas capture the nose preceding an interplay of baked pear and crisp apple on the palate. It’s bone dry while the buttery, caramel finish makes it quite interesting. This’ll pair beautifully with juicy grilled pork chops accompanied by applesauce. (Julie Stock)

Argentina: Red Wine

Cicchitti ‘Gran Reserva’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 

Mendoza $22.95 (301465) 14.0% alcohol 

Complex aromas waft from the glass of this opaque ruby-hued gem—cassis, graphite, earth, grilled herbs and oak stand out. Dry, medium-full bodied, the ripe fruit is showcased by tangy texture and subtle, firm underlying structure. The notions of earth and dried herbs mingle with dark chocolate, bringing complexity and persisting through the long, well-defined, warm, tangy finish. Crafted for aging, it’s great value. (Susan Desjardins) 

Crios Malbec 2014
Mendoza $14.95 (162529) 14% alcohol
Deep reddish purple in the glass; green pepper and earthy aromas dance with the red and dark cherry notes. Some time spent in oak barrel offers toasty notes while tight tannin leads to a little toasty spice on the dry finish. This is a great pizza or burger wine. (Julie Stock)

Chile - White

Signo De Origen La Vinilla Chardonnay/Viognier/Marsanne//Roussanne 2014
Casablanca Valley $19.95 (63909) 14.5 % alcohol
This luscious organic nectar is a winning blend of 63% Chardonnay, 15% Viognier, 14% Marsanne, 8% Roussanne. Golden to the eye; honey and floral aromas lead to flavours of baked pears, peaches, tropical fruit and apricot. It’s smooth and silky on the palate with an underlying seam of citrus acidity. This is well-balanced with good mouth feel and a long fruity finish—delicious on its own or with grilled fish. (Julie Stock)

Chile: Red Wine

Concha Y Toro ‘Terrunyo Vineyard Selection’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2012
Pirque, Maipo Valley $29.95 (562918) 14.5% alcohol
The hand-picked fruit was sourced from 2 premium blocks—both hardscrabble, stony soil. Expect juicy notes of ripe dark plum, blackberry and leather. Assertive dark fruit plays on the palate with earthy forest floor notes. This is nicely structured with integrated soft tannin. Medium to full-bodied, it broadens on the finish featuring peppery spice, dark chocolate and an echo of licorice. It’s delicious and the perfect accompaniment for roast pork. (Julie Stock)

Falernia Réserva Carmenère 2013
Elqui Valley, $18.95 (269175) 15% alcohol
This is huge, broad and delicious; a deep-purple hue in the glass. The grapes for this were left to become partially raisined on the vine before harvest leading to more concentrated flavours. Monstrous, juicy, ripe blackberry flavours coat the palate with sweet spice and warmth appearing at the end of the lengthy, bone-dry finish. It begs for your favourite beef stew and crusty bread. (Julie Stock)

Montes Alpha Syrah 2012
Colchagua Valley $19.95 (612) 14.5 % alcohol
Deep and inky-hued, ripe black fruit aromas emanate from the glass enticing you to salivate before tasting. There are layers of ripe plum, blackberry and dried blueberry flavour on the palate with sweet spice and chocolate on the finish. It’s reminiscent of a mocha, whipped-cream roll, very yummy with a warm, lengthy fruit-filled finish. (Julie Stock)

Tabali Reserva Especial 2011
Limari Valley $23.95 (107540) 14% alcohol
This assertive blend of Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot delivers aromas of deep dark berry fruit with underlying subtle herbal notes. Rich and creamy in texture, the dark palate-bathing cherry flavour mingles with mocha, white pepper and soft tannin on the lengthy finish. This will be lovely with pot roast or lamb tagine. (Julie Stock)

Ventisquero ‘Grey Glacier - Single Block’ Carmenère 2012
Maipo Valley $19.95 (325415) 14% alcohol
The eighteen months in French oak barrel adds to the texture and weight of this medium-plus bodied, nicely textured beauty. Appealing notes of earth, wood smoke, violets and red rose aromas combine with big black cherry/berry and fruitcake flavours on the palate. There’s great interplay throughout with perceptible, but acceptable tannin and a well-balanced, long peppery finish. It pours perfectly with a tomato-based pasta dish like spaghetti Bolognese. (Julie Stock)

Australia: Red Wine

Cimicky ‘Trumps’ Shiraz 2012

Barossa Valley $19.95 (27383) 14.5%alcohol

This is dark and inky with alluring woodsy, ripe, black cherry aromas that follow through on the palate. It’s value-packed and full bodied with a pinch of smokiness and noticeable tannin entwining with expressive dark plum flavours creating layers of delicious nectar. Partner with roast beef or strong-flavoured charcuterie. (Julie Stock)

Germany: White Wine

• The following winery and many of their vineyards have been in the Loosen (pronounced, LOH-zen) family for 200 years—they own some of the world’s most treasured Riesling plots. This wine was named for the blue-coloured, potassium-rich slate of the middle Mosel. The cooler, higher altitude, where fruit grows on steep, well-drained cliffs, produces elegant Kabinett with marked minerality—this was sourced from the Loosen villages of Bernkastel, Graach and Wehlen.

Dr. Loosen ‘Blue Slate’ Riesling Kabinett 2014
Prädikatswein $22.95 (160846) 8.0% alcohol
This is a stylish offering with flinty/mineral notes and notions of spiced apple and exotic perfume on the nose. It dishes up a sweet and tang stream of white peach and grilled pineapple robed in tangy lemon curd and hints of lime cordial. It has good mouth feel and lingering aftertaste. Delicious on its own, it’s the perfect foil to spicy Asian cuisine like tandoori chicken or pad Thai. (Vic Harradine)

Italy: White Wine

Attems Pinot Grigio 2014
IGT Venezia Giulia $19.95 (707950) 12.5% alcohol
Lemon-lime, pit fruit and floral notes precede a fresh, lively mouthful of pear, apple and white nectarine infused with racy lemon acidity and tang. It’s light on its feet with great balance and a crisp, refreshing finish and aftertaste. It provides endless opportunities for pairing with lighter-styled appetizers. (Vic Harradine)

  
Domaine Les Vieux Murs Pouilly-Fuissé 2013
AOC Pouilly-Fuissé $26.95 (241117) 13.4% alcohol
Not to be, understandably, confused with Loire Valley’s Pouilly-Fumé appellation, this is from Pouilly-Fuissé in Burgundy—a 100% Chardonnay appellation. Fruit from this family-owned winery was hand-harvested from 40-year-old vines and fermented with indigenous yeast. Alluring aromas of apple and white flowers interweave with minerality on the nose of this medium-weight, deftly balanced gem. Palate-bathing flavours of caramel apple and lemon pie filling interlace with white peach persisting through the lengthy, tang-laden finish and aftertaste. Pour with salt and pepper, grilled calamari rings. (Vic Harradine)

France: White Wine

Domaine du Meix-Foulot ‘Les Veleys’ Mercurey 1er Cru 2011
AOC Mercurey 1er Cru $34.95 (148874) 13.0% alcohol
This is classic Mercurey Premier Cru, opening with baking spice, floral notes and wisps of hazelnuts, the golden-hued, green-flecked nectar sets the table for a tapestry of flavour with crisp green apple and poached pear melding with cinnamon and lemon curd. It has good texture and mouth feel with a long, mouth-watering finish and aftertaste. Pour with pan-seared fish or grilled prawns. (Vic Harradine)

France: Red Wine

Domaine de Vieux Télégraphe ‘Télégramme’ Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2013
AOC Châteauneuf-du-Pape $46.95 (292722) 14.5% alcohol
Their iconic galets roulés-strewn vineyards are hallowed ground. The galets roulés—rounded stones—retain the sun’s heat during the day, releasing it on vines during the cool of night and provide excellent drainage. On the nose, earthy, rustic notes garnish aromas of piquant spice and savory herbs. A crescendo of flavour spills over the palate—red and black currant and black raspberry interweave with tar, black licorice and espresso roast. It’s full-bodied, fully textured and oozing ripe fruit, delectable tang and lovely underpinning of soft tannin. The finish lingers, balanced and beautiful. Pick up a few and pour now, after a three-hour aeration/decant, and on to 2022—stunning wine and terrific value. (Vic Harradine)

Lavau Vacqueyras 2012
AOC Vacqueyras $23.95 (104927) 14.0% alcohol
The Lavau family began purchasing grapes and selling bulk wine in the Rhone Valley in 1964. Brothers Benoit and Frederic took the reins in 2000, purchased premium vineyards and launched the Lavau brand. Look for baking spice, dark chocolate and mixed field berry fruit on the nose of this mid-full weight, nicely textured, red blend—50% Grenache, 40% Syrah, 10% Mourvèdre. It flows over the palate and infuses the lengthy aftertaste with oodles of red and dark cherry robed in mocha and wisps of floral notes—absolutely delicious. Pour alongside cassoulet or grilled rack of lamb. (Vic Harradine)

Château Peyros ‘Vieilles Vignes’ Madiran 2010
AOC Madiran $18.95 (234997) 14.0% alcohol
This 17th C property—Peyros means stony place—has 22 hectares in the far south of the Madiran appellation of which the ‘Vieilles Vignes’ portion is 5.5 hectares of that—vines are 40-50-years-old on average, the blend is 80% Tannat, 20% Cabernet Franc, the wine spent 12 months in oak barrel with 40% new. This full-bore, teeth-staining, concentrated red coats the palate with rich cherry/berry fruit with baking spice and earthy notes weaving in and out. It finishes with good fruit and acidity and a solid lick of still-resolving tannin. Pop corks 2019 to 2025. (Vic Harradine)

Spain: Red Wine

Baron De Ley ‘Reserva’ 2010
DOCa Rioja $21.95 (958868) 13.5% alcohol
Almost always marked by substantial oak, smoke, oak and toast aromas dominate the nose of this Tempranillo Reserva. It spent 20 months in casks of new American oak. This wraps around the palate with a creamy smooth stream of black currant and ripe mulberry garnished with coconut, savory herbs and dark coffee—medium bodied and balanced with texture and charm. The price-quality ratio skews well in your favour. Aerate/decant a couple of hours before serving; it also wouldn’t hurt to wait until 2018… your call. (Vic Harradine)

Upstream in winecurrent

Vintages Release: November 14, 2015

The Lane Vineyard ‘Block 1A’ Chardonnay 2013
Adelaide Hills, South Australia $19.95 (429233) 13.0% alcohol
Baking spice, white peach and pear aromas precede a lively wash of white grapefruit, lemon curd and toasty notes on the palate. Fashioned from six Chardonnay clones across eight distinct blocks in the cooler Adelaide Hills with its significant diurnal variation, this has oodles of charm. It’s medium weight with good mouth feel and a lengthy, lip-smacking aftertaste. There’s good balance, structure and persistent purity of fruit. It’s well paced and well priced, pouring perfectly with salt and pepper, grilled calamari rings. (Vic Harradine)

Torres ‘Altos Abéricos’ Crianza 2012
DOCa Rioja, Spain $16.95 (381046) 13.5% alcohol
This top-drawer Tempranillo aged 12 months in French and American oak, a small portion new. Aromas of dark toast, lilac, grilled herbs and spice introduce a medium-bodied, gorgeously textured wash of red berry fruit—currant, fresh strawberry and cranberry—interlaced with notions of cherry cordial. It finishes balanced and beautiful, a perfect partner with prawn and chorizo paella, lasagna or pasta Bolognese. (Vic Harradine)

Bodega Secreto Patagónico ‘Limited Edition’ Chardonnay 2012
Patagonia, Argentina $18.95 (380055) 14.0% alcohol
A gorgeous golden hue and aromas of tropical fruit, honey and binned apple herald a creamy-smooth, nicely textured stream of baking spice-infused flavours of ripe, red apple and pear interwoven with grilled pineapple and lemon pie filling. It’s medium bodied with a finish and aftertaste that’s loaded with ripe orchard fruit and wisps of peach skin. Pour alongside chicken a la king. (Vic Harradine)

Vintages Release: November 28, 2015

Inniskillin ‘Montague Vineyard’ Pinot Noir 2012
VQA Four Mile Creek $29.95 (997353) 13.5% alcohol
Floral notes, pipe tobacco and mixed spice announce a balanced wash of red and black plum, piquant spice and bittersweet chocolate interlaced with kirsch liqueur. There’s persistent purity of fruit and great élan. It’s medium weight with good mouth feel and a lingering, delicious finish and aftertaste. The 18 months of oak, new and seasoned, is seamlessly integrated, excellent acidity is lip-smacking and the tannin underpinning provides structure and interest—it’s good to go now. (Vic Harradine)

• It was Inniskillin’s 1989 Vidal Icewine that put Canada on the world wine map winning the coveted ‘Grand Prix d’Honneur at Vinexpo in Bordeaux, France. And the rest, as they say, is history. For some time after, when tasting wines around the world, once someone found out you were Canadian, the question was, have you ever tasted icewine? Because at that time not many outside of Canada had. Canadian icewine went ‘viral, before universal use of the web. It truly was a game changer. The following wine is your opportunity to find out what the excitement was, and is, all about. 

  
Inniskillin ‘Sparkling’ Vidal Icewine 2014
VQA Niagara Peninsula $79.95 (560367) 375 mL 9.5% alcohol
Alluring aromas of ripe tropical fruit, apricot and rosewater waft from the glass preceding fruit-forward flavours delicately surfing on spritzy bubbles—mango, apricot and notions of lemon drop candy. It’s light on its feet and velvety smooth on the palate with a balanced, lingering finish. It’s a perfect welcoming wine or aperitif and just the right size for two—the perfect way to set the mood for an intimate evening. (Vic Harradine)

• There are three facets of the following wine on which one might focus. 1) The ‘man’, octogenarian Robert Oakley, listed in Forbes as Austrialia’s 34th richest person having made a small fortune, that’s now a large one, through ownership and sale of Rosemount Estates winery in 2002, a world famous yachtsman and now owns boutique Robert Oatley Vineyards. 2) The Robert Oatley Vineyards ‘brand’, that builds on the concept of the wildly popular Rosemount while under Oatley’s guidance, care and leadership—the wine must be ‘a darned good drink - and even better when shared with friends’ and, ‘ they must show a true sense of the land—that ideal combination of grape variety and region’ 3) And finally, the much be-medaled bottle of Robert Oatley Shiraz being reviewed below from the McLaren Vale region—one of Australia’s prime wine growing regions with Shiraz accounting for approximately half of total vine plantings.

Robert Oatley ‘Signature Series’ Shiraz 2013
McLaren Vale, South Australia $19.95 (327387) 14.5% alcohol
Fruit was sourced from premium sites in the Blewitt Springs-Willunga area of southern McLaren Vale, fermented on skins in closed and open topped fermenters and aged 12-14 months in French oak. Spice-infused aromas of ripe mulberry and black currant herald a creamy smooth, medium-bodied flow of dark berry fruit garnished with wisps of piquant spice and excellent tang and acidity. This is very good value, stylish, harmonious and certainly… ‘a darned good drink.’ (Vic Harradine)

New in Vintages

  
Henry of Pelham Riesling Icewine 2014
VQA Niagara Peninsula $49.95 (430561) 375 mL 9.5% alcohol
This is a Vintages Essentials wine always stocked on shelves in select LCBO stores. Aromas of buckwheat honey and ripe juicy nectarine mingle with nutty notes and minerality on the nose. It bathes the palate with a gorgeous wash of peel marmalade, lemon curd and blood orange. It’s medium weight with generous mouth feel and a monumentally lengthy finish and aftertaste. Riesling is considered by many to the make premium icewine and Henry of Pelham is a premium producer—an unbeatable combination here. (Vic Harradine)

  
Kevin O’Leary Fine Wines ‘Trevor - Family Reserve’ Cabernet Franc 2012
VQA Niagara Peninsula $29.00 (421347) 13.5% alcohol
Named for his son, Trevor, this Kevin O’Leary—of Dragon’s Den fame—Cabernet Franc leaps from the glass with heady aromas of campfire smoke, piquant spice and graphite. It coats the palate with endless waves of red and black currant interlaced with grilled herbs and pie cherry. It has good purity of fruit, deft balance and lip-smacking tang. There’s good weight and smooth texture while finishing in a blaze of solid dark fruit flavour, good acidity and interesting notes of earthy, forest floor. How good is that? (Vic Harradine)

  
Vineland ‘Elevation – St. Urban Vineyard’ Riesling 2014
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $19.95 (38117) 8.0% alcohol
Sourced from 35-year-old, 21-B Weiss clone vines, famously brought over from Weingut St. Urbans-Hof in Mosel, Germany by Hermann Weis; this is unfettered joy. Piquant aromas of lime, steely mineral notes and apple pierce the air. It streaks over the palate with wild abandon, lemon rind and white grapefruit pith garnished with honey-drenched mango and nectarine. It’s off dry and terrific now continuing to evolve over the next few years—good value and not to be missed. Pour with butter chicken, garlic naan and steamed rice. (Vic Harradine)

Cheers, Vic, Susan and Julie